Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Barry Stark
That doesn't sound like the typical failure as I understand it, and I kinda
doubt it could be covered under the subframe campaign. My '81 380SL had the
old style subframe and a couple of the A-arm tabs were cracking when I
bought it. I had had them welded, but when I went to the dealer for another
matter and brought the repair to their attention, they had the MBUSA
regional service rep come out to take a look. The rep had the subframe
replaced by the dealer. I paid only for new subframe mounts and engine
mounts. They did the RR and alignment. The difference between the old and
new style subframes is that the new ones have the tabs that hold the A-arms
reinforced with a kind of a box section on either side of the tab. My guess
is that, even if you had cracking in the new style in a place that could
cause suspension failure, they may possibly replace the subframe, as there
is a history of subframe cracking and failures. The liability, should one
fail and cause someone to get hurt, may really be the deciding issue. The
mention of that fact may tip the scales if the rep appears to be declining
the repair. In any case, It's entirely up to the MBUSA field service rep.
I'd also assume that if you have a really good relationship with your dealer
it could go a long way towards getting MBUSA support. The original
purchaser, at the dealership where it was purchased, always has the best
bargaining position, especially if they see you come in on a regular basis.
But again, since in your case it is the chassis rather than the subframe,
they will likely decline to perform that repair as a warranty repair. Now,
if they do, please let me know as I have just discovered a small crack
starting in one of my chassis engine mount support horns on my SD. ;^)

Barry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wakin
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 3:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question


The guy said he would send it to Mercedes to be repaired. At first, he said
he would weld it (He had at least 2 nice welders in his shop), but then he
said he would have MB do it. I am guessing he thought about the liability if
the weld failed.

Not knowing about any other failure, and only going by what he showed me,
the crack was in the mount for the subframe, and not the subframe itself.
Not sure if this is what the normal failure is. It definitely can't not be
fixed without welding the old one, or cutting it out and putting a new one
it.

Dave W







Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD a/c suddenly quit

2006-07-03 Thread Levi Smith

If it's like my 83' 300D, make sure the 2 flat blade connector is still
plugged into the bottom of the compressor.  If so, apply 12v directly to it
and make sure the clutch is still engaging.
I assume the blower motor is still working.  If not, check the #8(I think)
fuse.

Mine stopped the other day then I checked it this weekend and it started
working again...

Levi

On 7/2/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


bout 2 hours from home the a/c compressor quit running.  Just had the a/c
system charged a couple weeks ago, and they didn't find any leaks.  I could
use some advice on trouble shooting this before I have my mechanic look at
it.  TIA all.

--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

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[MBZ] 30?

2006-07-03 Thread Bob Rentfro
So...I changed the oil today and, as I was laying on the driveway resting while 
the oil drained out, I noticed for the first time a big 30 stamped on the 
left side of my engine.

What the heck is that?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 155K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 66K
waiting on '72 350SL 78K
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The 30 is how many K you are going to pay Rusty for parts before you
retire the beast.

On 7/2/06, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So...I changed the oil today and, as I was laying on the driveway resting
 while the oil drained out, I noticed for the first time a big 30 stamped
 on the left side of my engine.

 What the heck is that?

 Bob Rentfro
 '77 300D 155K
 '01 VW Beetle TDI 66K
 waiting on '72 350SL 78K
 ___
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--
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-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] 30?

2006-07-03 Thread LT Don

Ok, on a more serious note, let's think here.

I think you have a 300D. That is a 3.0 engine. Think a 30 might be related
somehow?


Re: [MBZ] Rains back east ...

2006-07-03 Thread Curt Raymond
Dried out? I don't think we've had 2 days together it didn't rain since 
February...
  My wife and I were checking out a house today and she complained the yard was 
kinda wet. Well gee dear, now that we live in the rainforest we'll need to get 
used to that...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2006 15:19:46 -0400
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rains back east ...
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

We're OK here in RI-it went south of us.  Eastern PA is a mess-not 
quite
as bad as Agnes in 72. Some damage south of Albany along the
Delaware-e.g. I88 was washed out and two truckers killed. The creek
sliced right through all 4 lanes.
Finally dried out here today.
Thanks for asking. 


Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.




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That's how many millimeters your hairline will recede during your
tenure-ship of said vehicle.


Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


[MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread Curt Raymond
So during the 7,000 miles I had the first dose of Mobil 1 in I had to add less 
than 1 quart of oil and that was when I took a sample for analysis.
  Then the other day I notice some wierd oil on the hood just above the 
headlight on the drivers side. I popped the hood but couldn't see any oil other 
than the usual amount pretty much everywhere.
  Then yesterday driving into the Berkshires the low oil light came on. Well 
thats interesting but the car doesn't leak oil (see above) so I didn't pay it 
much mind and it went out.
  This morning returning from the Berkshires the light came back on and 
persisted. We stopped for breakfast and after eating I checked and it was down 
a quart. I topped up but the question remains where the hell did the oil go? 
Furthermore how did the mystery oil get on the hood? I couldn't see any oil 
lines there or anything obvious...
   
  One possible solution: Its I-90 from Springfield into the Berkshires, gotta 
be some of the biggest, longest hills in MA. In fact we passed the highest 
point on I-90 this side of South Dakota. At one point yesterday I saw the temp 
gauge rise above its normal position for the first time since I got the car. It 
usually sits just above 80C so that you can just see the top of the 8 above the 
needle, probably 85-90C its hard to be precise on that gauge. Yesterday it rose 
to the point I could see all of the 8 under the needle. At which point I 
realized this was an excellent Italian Tuneup oportunity and put the hammer 
down. We'd been crusing at about 70mph so I took it up to about 80mph and 
immediately ran out of hill.
   
  -Curt
  '85 190D Dory 244kmi


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Then I'd better stay away from the 300D.

On 7/2/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 That's how many millimeters your hairline will recede during your
 tenure-ship of said vehicle.


 Casey
 Olympia, WA
 Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
 '87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
 '84 300D (214k)
 Gashuffer:
 '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
 http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD a/c suddenly quit

2006-07-03 Thread Luther Gulseth

well, I tried it sitting in the driveway tonight and the compressor is kicking 
in, you just can't feel the lag on the engine like normal.  I'll take it to my 
mechanic and let him diagnose it from here.

On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 19:16:41 -0500, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


If it's like my 83' 300D, make sure the 2 flat blade connector is still
plugged into the bottom of the compressor.  If so, apply 12v directly to it
and make sure the clutch is still engaging.
I assume the blower motor is still working.  If not, check the #8(I think)
fuse.

Mine stopped the other day then I checked it this weekend and it started
working again...

Levi





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread Tom Hargrave
Curt,

Your oil cooler has sprung a high pressure leak. The oil cooler is bolted to
the driver side of the radiator  that's why you see oil on the hood. You
need to replace the cooler before the hole opens up more. A good used one
makes a great replacement since they rarely fail. Maybe Kaleb has one laying
around at a reasonable price?

By the way, this had nothing to do with your Mobil-1.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:51 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.


So during the 7,000 miles I had the first dose of Mobil 1 in I had to add
less than 1 quart of oil and that was when I took a sample for analysis.
  Then the other day I notice some wierd oil on the hood just above the
headlight on the drivers side. I popped the hood but couldn't see any oil
other than the usual amount pretty much everywhere.
  Then yesterday driving into the Berkshires the low oil light came on. Well
thats interesting but the car doesn't leak oil (see above) so I didn't pay
it much mind and it went out.
  This morning returning from the Berkshires the light came back on and
persisted. We stopped for breakfast and after eating I checked and it was
down a quart. I topped up but the question remains where the hell did the
oil go? Furthermore how did the mystery oil get on the hood? I couldn't see
any oil lines there or anything obvious...

  One possible solution: Its I-90 from Springfield into the Berkshires,
gotta be some of the biggest, longest hills in MA. In fact we passed the
highest point on I-90 this side of South Dakota. At one point yesterday I
saw the temp gauge rise above its normal position for the first time since I
got the car. It usually sits just above 80C so that you can just see the top
of the 8 above the needle, probably 85-90C its hard to be precise on that
gauge. Yesterday it rose to the point I could see all of the 8 under the
needle. At which point I realized this was an excellent Italian Tuneup
oportunity and put the hammer down. We'd been crusing at about 70mph so I
took it up to about 80mph and immediately ran out of hill.

  -Curt
  '85 190D Dory 244kmi


-
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[MBZ] 123 A/C info

2006-07-03 Thread Zeitgeist

I'm attempting to diagnose my wife's '84 300D A/C, and can't quite figure
out where all the components reside.  The steaky and braingears sites have
apparently gone AWOL.  I ran my RobinAir vacuum pump on the system for an
hour, and it held for at least an hour afterwords, so I leaked some propane
in there as a test.  Turns out the clutch electrical connector was unhooked,
so I fixed that, and it now engages.  The system maintains a high/low
pressure of 75 psi at rest, and 90 psi with the engine running--the same on
both sides in each case.  Help, I'm an idiot.

--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread Mike Canfield
Very possible that the M1 cleaned some sludge off from a pinhole that was 
already there and probably going to let you know at a bad time...LOL  Thanks 
M1...Well sorta...


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.



Curt,

Your oil cooler has sprung a high pressure leak. The oil cooler is bolted 
to

the driver side of the radiator  that's why you see oil on the hood. You
need to replace the cooler before the hole opens up more. A good used one
makes a great replacement since they rarely fail. Maybe Kaleb has one 
laying

around at a reasonable price?

By the way, this had nothing to do with your Mobil-1.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:51 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.


So during the 7,000 miles I had the first dose of Mobil 1 in I had to add
less than 1 quart of oil and that was when I took a sample for analysis.
 Then the other day I notice some wierd oil on the hood just above the
headlight on the drivers side. I popped the hood but couldn't see any oil
other than the usual amount pretty much everywhere.
 Then yesterday driving into the Berkshires the low oil light came on. 
Well

thats interesting but the car doesn't leak oil (see above) so I didn't pay
it much mind and it went out.
 This morning returning from the Berkshires the light came back on and
persisted. We stopped for breakfast and after eating I checked and it was
down a quart. I topped up but the question remains where the hell did the
oil go? Furthermore how did the mystery oil get on the hood? I couldn't 
see

any oil lines there or anything obvious...

 One possible solution: Its I-90 from Springfield into the Berkshires,
gotta be some of the biggest, longest hills in MA. In fact we passed the
highest point on I-90 this side of South Dakota. At one point yesterday I
saw the temp gauge rise above its normal position for the first time since 
I
got the car. It usually sits just above 80C so that you can just see the 
top

of the 8 above the needle, probably 85-90C its hard to be precise on that
gauge. Yesterday it rose to the point I could see all of the 8 under the
needle. At which point I realized this was an excellent Italian Tuneup
oportunity and put the hammer down. We'd been crusing at about 70mph so I
took it up to about 80mph and immediately ran out of hill.

 -Curt
 '85 190D Dory 244kmi


-
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___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD a/c suddenly quit

2006-07-03 Thread Mitch Haley
Luther Gulseth wrote:
 
 well, I tried it sitting in the driveway tonight and the compressor is 
 kicking in,
 you just can't feel the lag on the engine like normal. 

Compressor running w/o resistance implies an open expansion valve, doesn't it?
(unless you had to bypass the low pressure safety to make the compressor kick 
in,
then it could be lack of charge)



Re: [MBZ] 30?

2006-07-03 Thread OK Don

Hair is way over rated -  ask Luther.

God created a few perfect heads, and covered the rest in hair.

On 7/2/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Then I'd better stay away from the 300D.

On 7/2/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 That's how many millimeters your hairline will recede during your
 tenure-ship of said vehicle.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread OK Don

I'd think that the top hose to the oil cooler is more likely to leak
than the cooler it's self  - JMTCW.

On 7/2/06, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Very possible that the M1 cleaned some sludge off from a pinhole that was
already there and probably going to let you know at a bad time...LOL  Thanks
M1...Well sorta...

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.


 Curt,

 Your oil cooler has sprung a high pressure leak. The oil cooler is bolted
 to
 the driver side of the radiator  that's why you see oil on the hood. You
 need to replace the cooler before the hole opens up more. A good used one
 makes a great replacement since they rarely fail. Maybe Kaleb has one
 laying
 around at a reasonable price?

 By the way, this had nothing to do with your Mobil-1.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Curt Raymond
 Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:51 PM
 To: Diesel List
 Subject: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.


 So during the 7,000 miles I had the first dose of Mobil 1 in I had to add
 less than 1 quart of oil and that was when I took a sample for analysis.
  Then the other day I notice some wierd oil on the hood just above the
 headlight on the drivers side. I popped the hood but couldn't see any oil
 other than the usual amount pretty much everywhere.
  Then yesterday driving into the Berkshires the low oil light came on.
 Well
 thats interesting but the car doesn't leak oil (see above) so I didn't pay
 it much mind and it went out.
  This morning returning from the Berkshires the light came back on and
 persisted. We stopped for breakfast and after eating I checked and it was
 down a quart. I topped up but the question remains where the hell did the
 oil go? Furthermore how did the mystery oil get on the hood? I couldn't
 see
 any oil lines there or anything obvious...

  One possible solution: Its I-90 from Springfield into the Berkshires,
 gotta be some of the biggest, longest hills in MA. In fact we passed the
 highest point on I-90 this side of South Dakota. At one point yesterday I
 saw the temp gauge rise above its normal position for the first time since
 I
 got the car. It usually sits just above 80C so that you can just see the
 top
 of the 8 above the needle, probably 85-90C its hard to be precise on that
 gauge. Yesterday it rose to the point I could see all of the 8 under the
 needle. At which point I realized this was an excellent Italian Tuneup
 oportunity and put the hammer down. We'd been crusing at about 70mph so I
 took it up to about 80mph and immediately ran out of hill.

  -Curt
  '85 190D Dory 244kmi


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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 30?

2006-07-03 Thread Zeitgeist

For those who are not similarly hirsute-challenged, there will be receding
of other bodily appendages commensurate with the nomenclature designated on
the engine block.   Sorry, I don't make the rules.

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
BZT, WRONG.  They will only fix 450 models for free, no other model 
is covered under the class action.


Rich Thomas wrote:

MB will fix it for free, you might have to pay for some ancillary 
parts.  My buddy had this done on his 79 450SL a few months ago, the 
dealer renewed some rubber bits and a couple other things, I think they 
charged him about $225 for that stuff.  A good deal as these things were 
easy to do with the subframe being replaced.


His mech had told him it would cost him $2500 to fix it, I posted the 
question to the list, got the right answer, went with him to the mech to 
look at it, casually mentioned I thought MB would fix it for free, he 
hemmed hawwed a bit and said uh yeah I think that might be right.  He is 
no longer my buddy's mech after many years.


The car drives very well now, was wearing the front tires badly and 
handled like a fat pig.  I also found a broken rear stab link that was 
rubbing the brake shield on turns and sounded hellacious, the mech had 
some story about that gonna be big bucks too for rear diff or axles 
etc.  $35 part, 30 min replacement.


--R




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] transmission leak

2006-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

there is no telling, just look for the leak.

Sunil Hari wrote:


I pulled into my driveway on Friday, and as I pulled in I noticed the smell
of ATF.  After parking, I looked under the car and it was not leaking.  I
started my car today, put it into reverse, and  no motion.

I revved the engine a little, and it started moving.  I backed out of the
drive with a lot of revving, and it just felt like the transmission wasn't
engaging.  I pulled back into my spot, and where I turned the car I noticed
a droplet trail of ATF.  I was in a rush and switched cars without getting
under the car.

What's the most likely source of the leak?  Is it something I can fix with
my limited tools and knowledge?



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

welding is a bad idea, replacing it is the best solution.

Wakin wrote:

The guy said he would send it to Mercedes to be repaired. At first, he said 
he would weld it (He had at least 2 nice welders in his shop), but then he 
said he would have MB do it. I am guesiing he thought about the liability if 
the weld failed.


Not knowing about any other failure, and only going by what he showed me, 
the crack was in the mount for the subframe, and not the subframe itself. 
Not sure if this is what the normal failure is. It defentely can't not be 
fixed without welding the old one, or cutting it out and putting a new one 
it.


Dave W


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread JFreezn
 
possible solution: Its I-90 from Springfield into the  Berkshires,
  gotta be some of the biggest, longest hills in MA. In  fact we passed the
  highest point on I-90 this side of South Dakota.  At one point yesterday I
  saw the temp gauge rise above its normal  position for the first time 
since
  I
  got the car. It  usually sits just above 80C so that you can just see the
   top
  of the 8 above the needle, probably 85-90C its hard to be  precise on that
  gauge. Yesterday it rose to the point I could see  all of the 8 under the
  needle. At which point I realized this was  an excellent Italian Tuneup
  oportunity and put the hammer down.  We'd been crusing at about 70mph so I
  took it up to about 80mph and  immediately ran out of hill.




Curt,
 
the engine oil cooler is normally not needed  and is thermostatically  
controlled.  If there was a leak in the cooler circuit, it might remain  
invisible 
until you make a hard pull like your report above.  
 
WOT will also change the amount of blowby and where most cars can handle  
blowby in normal amounts, hard climbs will sometimes move more oil into the  
intake air stream where it is burned with the combustion process. 
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] OT: hitches

2006-07-03 Thread Fmiser
rumor has it that Jim wrote:

  Sound like a slick system - for drawbar-type implements. But from
  your description, it sounds like it does _not_ lift the whole
  implement, it just lifts the draw point. This is fine for some, but
  not so good for box blades, tillers, etc.
 
  Or am I missing something? *smile*
 
 You are.  The sockets are rectangular, and deep.  The entire implement
 is rigidly coupled to the hitch system.  (As a weak analogy, think of
 a common incandescent nightlight and how it stabs into the light 
 socket.)
 That rigid coupling is why the hitch has the 2-way hydraulic angling
 mechanism, to set the pitch and roll of the implement.

Got it!

So the connection socket is _not_ a pivot.

But that would have a lot less leverage than a typical 3-point. Do you
happen to know what sort of weight limit it has?

--Philip, just curious



Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread Fmiser
rumor has it that Curt wrote:


 Then the other day I notice some wierd oil on the
 hood just above the headlight on the drivers side. I popped the hood
 but couldn't see any oil other than the usual amount pretty much
 everywhere. 

I know you don't have a W123 - but on two different W123s I have had a
similar oil trail.

It seems that the under-hood airflow is _toward_ the drive's side
headlight. One one of the cars, the oil filter mount gasket was
leaking and that was the oil coming out between the hood and fender
just above the headlight.

The other car trashed piston rings on cylinder #3 before I positivly
identified the source - but I suspect it was breather tube related -
possibly connected to excess blowby.

Can't help with the rest - sorry. *smile

--Philip, nothing but W123s



Re: [MBZ] 123 A/C info

2006-07-03 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 7/2/2006 7:59:59 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm  attempting to diagnose my wife's '84 300D A/C, and can't quite figure
out  where all the components reside.  The steaky and braingears sites  have
apparently gone AWOL.  I ran my RobinAir vacuum pump on the  system for an
hour, and it held for at least an hour afterwords, so I  leaked some propane
in there as a test.  Turns out the clutch  electrical connector was unhooked,
so I fixed that, and it now  engages.  The system maintains a high/low
pressure of 75 psi at rest,  and 90 psi with the engine running--the same on
both sides in each  case.  Help, I'm an idiot.



Casey,
 
It sounds like you have the valves open on your test gages, and the  pressure 
is equalizing through the manifold.  Make sure both valves on the  manifold 
are tightly closed.   They don't need to be open to read  pressures.
 
If the valves are closed.  You should have a nice delta P across the  
compressor,  assuming the compressor is turning, and not just the belt  driven 
clutch 
pulley.
 
If all the above is totally wrong, and the compressor is turning, it is  
probably bad.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] OT: hitches

2006-07-03 Thread Zeitgeist

Ya, I'm thinking the same thing.  The third point stabilizes, and allows
the load to pivot off the center of gravity.  So, how does a two point
system do this?

On 7/2/06, Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


So the connection socket is _not_ a pivot.

But that would have a lot less leverage than a typical 3-point. Do you
happen to know what sort of weight limit it has?

--Philip, just curious

___



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] 123 A/C info

2006-07-03 Thread Zeitgeist

Ah ha, you are correct.  I'll try again tomorrow evening with the valves in
the closed position.

On 7/2/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Casey,

It sounds like you have the valves open on your test gages, and
the  pressure
is equalizing through the manifold.  Make sure both valves on
the  manifold
are tightly closed.   They don't need to be open to read  pressures.

If the valves are closed.  You should have a nice delta P across the
compressor,  assuming the compressor is turning, and not just the
belt  driven clutch
pulley.

If all the above is totally wrong, and the compressor is turning, it is
probably bad.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


[MBZ] 126 Speedo Inop

2006-07-03 Thread Scott Ritchey
The speedo quit in my 82 SD today.  I had just pulled the cluster to lube
the new odometer gears and the odo still works fine.

Any clues/advice before I pull the cluster again to troubleshoot?  Thanks.

Scott Ritchey
Kittrell NC
1982 300SD 220K
1979 300TD 350K
 

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Re: [MBZ] 30?

2006-07-03 Thread Bob Rentfro

duh...


Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 30?



Ok, on a more serious note, let's think here.

I think you have a 300D. That is a 3.0 engine. Think a 30 might be 
related

somehow?
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Re: [MBZ] 30?

2006-07-03 Thread Bob Rentfro
I always say, like my grandfather before me used to say, when someone gives 
me a bit of grief about my increasing gray hair:


I would rather it turn gray than turn loose.

Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 30?



Hair is way over rated -  ask Luther.

God created a few perfect heads, and covered the rest in hair.

On 7/2/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Then I'd better stay away from the 300D.

On 7/2/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 That's how many millimeters your hairline will recede during your
 tenure-ship of said vehicle.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT: hitches

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

So the connection socket is _not_ a pivot.


You got it.


But that would have a lot less leverage than a typical 3-point. Do you
happen to know what sort of weight limit it has?


I don't know, I suppose it must be written down somewhere.  The
hitch metalwork is pretty stout, I can tell you that.  I think it's
maybe 5/8 by 3.  We ran a 2-bottom plow off of it, that little
4-banger was working pretty hard.  Any weakness it had was not in
the hitch!

Ya, I'm thinking the same thing.  The third point stabilizes, and 
allows

the load to pivot off the center of gravity.  So, how does a two point
system do this?


The third point, if you will, is part of the tractor rather than part
of the implement.  It was slung underneath the tractor, and eventually
linked to the forwards hydraulic actuator.  (For pitch control.)

I suspect that the 3-point hitch has a little more versatility in
its ability to couple to weird-shaped implements, especially when it
comes to setting the base pitch of the implement.  But the Farmall
offered the ability to adjust the pitch on the fly, which was rather
handy when running the plow.  (It's what set the angle of attack
of the shares.)  Implements designed for the tractor, of course,
would probably not be at any disadvantage, as the attachment point
for the hitch system would be placed wherever it needed to be to
get the geometry right.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 123 A/C info

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

so I fixed that, and it now engages.  The system maintains a high/low
pressure of 75 psi at rest, and 90 psi with the engine running--the 
same on

both sides in each case.  Help, I'm an idiot.


Hey, ya idjit, close the manifold valves!  Did you see the part of my
story where the gauge-set hoses weren't coupling well?  Now that's a
red herring!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD a/c suddenly quit

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey
bout 2 hours from home the a/c compressor quit running.  Just had the 
a/c system charged a couple weeks ago, and they didn't find any leaks. 
 I could use some advice on trouble shooting this before I have my 
mechanic look at it.  TIA all.


The usual thing to try is to temporarily short the low-pressure safety
switch to see if the compressor starts then.  If so, either the switch
is suddenly bad (unlikely) or your charge has leaked away.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] transmission leak

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

series transmissions. The transmission MUST be pulled to service the
front pump seal.


You may, of course, instead choose to pull the engine while leaving
the tranny in place.  That also exposes the necessary bolts, but for
some reason most people don't favor this approach!  :-)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] transmission leak

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey
What's the most likely source of the leak?  Is it something I can fix 
with

my limited tools and knowledge?


Can't really tell without actually looking to see where the
leak is coming from.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Barry Stark
Kaleb -
BZT backatya too big guy. Didn't you read my earlier post??? :^)
Surely I'm not the only non 450 one. I didn't understand that it went to a
lawsuit. I thought it was just one of those unwritten type warranty
coverages. Ya know the ones where we really don't want to admit that there
really is a problem but replace the cracked and broken subframes just so
that there won't be one of those nasty and expensive type class action
lawsuit kinda deals. ;^)

Barry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 9:25 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question


  They will only fix 450 models for free, no other model
is covered under the class action.






[MBZ] oxygen sensor. 126 300se

2006-07-03 Thread M.Afzaal.Khan
Hi  all . Are  the oxygen sensor  leads ( twoWhite ones )interchangable? 
both of them do not ground,  nor are they connected to the Black signal wire 
in any way.


mak 





Re: [MBZ] Got any spare rear shock units for 300TD?

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey
This is so unjust. My 1985 300TD has failed its Warrant of Fitness 
because
the rear hydraulic shock units on the self-levelling suspension are 
leaking

tiny amounts of fluid. Result: automatic rejection 'cos WOFs cannot be
issued in NZ for vehicles with dodgy shocks.


Would an equal leak of PS fluid or engine oil fail the car?  I suppose
there's no point in teaching them that your suspension fluid is a
measurable and replaceable item, and that a tiny seepage there in no
way affects the operation of the suspension?  Something that can work
here is to get another inspection at a different place, maybe they won't
be so picky elsewhere?


is WDB123190 2F 043108.


What does the 'F' mean?  I thought it was always 0 or 1 for LHD/RHD.

Alternatively, I have been quoted half the MB dealer price for a 
no-star

pair from the manufacturer, parallel-imported into NZ. What's the story
here? How is that the manufacturer sells the units independently like 
this?


Their contract with the manufacturer doesn't prohibit this?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] oxygen sensor. 126 300se

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey
Hi  all . Are  the oxygen sensor  leads ( twoWhite ones 
)interchangable?
both of them do not ground,  nor are they connected to the Black 
signal wire

in any way.


They're just a heating element, I'm sure they're symmetrical.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Tuna time!

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

My automatic eBay Unimog search has coughed up an auction for that
$17 Harbor Freight diesel compression tester.  Anyone care to watch
with me what the bidding frenzy will get to?  Winning bidder is also
on the hook for $8 shipping, so if bidding goes to more than about $10
it's caveat emptor time!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ 
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=33754353


What's next, foot-pump air compressors as used on Jaguars
and Rolls Royces?  String, as used in hospitals?  (No wait,
that one's been done!)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

Well, nobody had a dead one to sacrifice at the altar of understanding,
so I'm putting that project away.  (I _know_ at least one or two have
been replaced out there, but I suppose the deaders were just thrown
away.  Not something _I'd_ ever do!)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Got any spare rear shock units for 300TD?

2006-07-03 Thread Richard Hattaway
Euan,

If it will do any good, there is a specification in the MB manuals that
gives a measure to the amount of acceptable fluid leakage.  It is
actually more than most cars ever leak, if it would be any help to you
in arguing your case.  I dont have the number in front of me, but it
does exist and someone will probably pipe up with it soon.

These shocks are hundreds of dollars here in USA.  As I am sure you
know, they are not shocks at all, but hydraulic cylinders connected to
nitrogen filled spheres.  There is a possiblity that a local hydraulics
repair shop could re-seal them for you for a  nominal price.

Or maybe just take them out, clean them up real well, re-install and
claim rebuilds.  

You're correct, it is unjust.  Were you not under undue stress, I would
suggest the only real soulution would be to ship your five speed to me
here in the states, where the inspection people only care about
collecting the tax, er.. inspection fee.

Richard



--- Euan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi there folks
 
 This is so unjust. My 1985 300TD has failed its Warrant of Fitness
 because
 the rear hydraulic shock units on the self-levelling suspension are
 leaking
 tiny amounts of fluid. Result: automatic rejection 'cos WOFs cannot
 be
 issued in NZ for vehicles with dodgy shocks.
 
 Now, you tell me: how often would these WOF inspectors detect a
 leaking gas
 shock? I'll tell you. Hardly ever. The two rear gas shocks on my
 Toyota
 Hilux 4WD were filled with nothing but rust and dust . They fell
 apart when
 I replaced them - after the vehicle had survived several WOF
 inspections,
 that is.
 
 Anyway, I'm needing two units to replace mine. Does anyone have a set
 in
 good condition going spare? Part number is A123 320 07 03. My vehicle
 number
 is WDB123190 2F 043108.
 
 Alternatively, I have been quoted half the MB dealer price for a
 no-star
 pair from the manufacturer, parallel-imported into NZ. What's the
 story
 here? How is that the manufacturer sells the units independently like
 this?
 
 Cheers
 
 Euan
 
 1985 300TD 5-spd manual
 201K miles  
 
 ___
 
 Euan S Kennedy
 5 Banks Avenue
 Shirley, Christchurch 8061
 New Zealand
 
 Phone +64 3 980 5712
 Cellphone  027 326 3245
 E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Rich Thomas

Are there differences in the two cars?

--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

BZT, WRONG.  They will only fix 450 models for free, no other model 
is covered under the class action.


Rich Thomas wrote:

 

MB will fix it for free, you might have to pay for some ancillary 
parts.  My buddy had this done on his 79 450SL a few months ago, the 
dealer renewed some rubber bits and a couple other things, I think they 
charged him about $225 for that stuff.  A good deal as these things were 
easy to do with the subframe being replaced.


His mech had told him it would cost him $2500 to fix it, I posted the 
question to the list, got the right answer, went with him to the mech to 
look at it, casually mentioned I thought MB would fix it for free, he 
hemmed hawwed a bit and said uh yeah I think that might be right.  He is 
no longer my buddy's mech after many years.


The car drives very well now, was wearing the front tires badly and 
handled like a fat pig.  I also found a broken rear stab link that was 
rubbing the brake shield on turns and sounded hellacious, the mech had 
some story about that gonna be big bucks too for rear diff or axles 
etc.  $35 part, 30 min replacement.


--R

   




 



[MBZ] Clutch Bleed 240D

2006-07-03 Thread John Ingram
I have just completed an engine switch on my 83 240D.  One of the  
last things I need to do is bleed the clutch cylinders.  The manual  
says it has to be done backwards (fluid from the slave cylinder to  
the brake reservoir).  I am not sure how to do this and was hoping  
someone on the list has done it.  What is the best way to do this?


Thanks,
John Ingram



Re: [MBZ] transmission leak

2006-07-03 Thread John Berryman


On Jul 2, 2006, at 5:53 PM, Sunil Hari wrote:

What's the most likely source of the leak?  Is it something I can  
fix with

my limited tools and knowledge?


	Quite possibly one of the cooler lines was damaged at one of the  
clamps that attach them to the oil pan. The rubber deteriorates  
causing metal to metal contact. Very common failure. There are plenty  
of other places that can leak but this is the most common.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread John Berryman


On Jul 2, 2006, at 10:41 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:


Curt,

Your oil cooler has sprung a high pressure leak. The oil cooler is  
bolted to
the driver side of the radiator  that's why you see oil on the  
hood. You
need to replace the cooler before the hole opens up more. A good  
used one
makes a great replacement since they rarely fail. Maybe Kaleb has  
one laying

around at a reasonable price?

By the way, this had nothing to do with your Mobil-1.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave


There should be no oil cooler on Curt's 190D.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.

2006-07-03 Thread Tom Hargrave
John,

I thought all of the Mercedes diesels had oil coolers? Even my 300SDL has
one - it's inside the driver side fender.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



  -Original Message-
  From: John Berryman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 8:44 AM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hmmm, missing oil.




  On Jul 2, 2006, at 10:41 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:


Curt,


Your oil cooler has sprung a high pressure leak. The oil cooler is
bolted to
the driver side of the radiator  that's why you see oil on the hood.
You
need to replace the cooler before the hole opens up more. A good used
one
makes a great replacement since they rarely fail. Maybe Kaleb has one
laying
around at a reasonable price?


By the way, this had nothing to do with your Mobil-1.


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave


  There should be no oil cooler on Curt's 190D.


  Johnny B.
  I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-07-03 Thread Woodlandtaylors
Jim,

Don't have any to sacrifice however next time your in town I'll let you come
and play with a couple still in cars, if you need tension relief.

Dennis T
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 5:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

Well, nobody had a dead one to sacrifice at the altar of understanding,
so I'm putting that project away.  (I _know_ at least one or two have
been replaced out there, but I suppose the deaders were just thrown
away.  Not something _I'd_ ever do!)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Got any spare rear shock units for 300TD?

2006-07-03 Thread John Berryman


On Jul 3, 2006, at 1:48 AM, Euan wrote:

Anyway, I'm needing two units to replace mine. Does anyone have a  
set in
good condition going spare? Part number is A123 320 07 03. My  
vehicle number

is WDB123190 2F 043108.


	I just pulled a pair from a 1983 300TD, as I may have one leaking in  
one of mine. I'm on stand-by with FEMA and I won't be looking into it  
too soon if I'm deployed. If you don't get it taken care of by the  
time I get back and I don't need to replace mine, I can ship them to  
you. Providing that shipping isn't too much $$. The lines can get  
rusted and leak too.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
If you got your non 450 fixed, they were being nice, they sure didnt 
have to fix it for you.


Barry Stark wrote:


Kaleb -
BZT backatya too big guy. Didn't you read my earlier post??? :^)
Surely I'm not the only non 450 one. I didn't understand that it went to a
lawsuit. I thought it was just one of those unwritten type warranty
coverages. Ya know the ones where we really don't want to admit that there
really is a problem but replace the cracked and broken subframes just so
that there won't be one of those nasty and expensive type class action
lawsuit kinda deals. ;^)

Barry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 9:25 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question


  They will only fix 450 models for free, no other model
is covered under the class action.




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Got any spare rear shock units for 300TD?

2006-07-03 Thread Tom Hargrave
Richard,

His may actually have shocks, not the self leveling suspension. I don't know
if MB sold wagons everywhere with the suspension they sold in the states.

Euan,

If you do have conventional gas shocks then they are likely the same parts
as on the sedan. Also, there is no problem with purchasing parts from the
manufacturer. Bilstien shocks are the same quality as the MB branded shocks.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Richard Hattaway
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 8:05 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got any spare rear shock units for 300TD?


Euan,

If it will do any good, there is a specification in the MB manuals that
gives a measure to the amount of acceptable fluid leakage.  It is
actually more than most cars ever leak, if it would be any help to you
in arguing your case.  I dont have the number in front of me, but it
does exist and someone will probably pipe up with it soon.

These shocks are hundreds of dollars here in USA.  As I am sure you
know, they are not shocks at all, but hydraulic cylinders connected to
nitrogen filled spheres.  There is a possiblity that a local hydraulics
repair shop could re-seal them for you for a  nominal price.

Or maybe just take them out, clean them up real well, re-install and
claim rebuilds.

You're correct, it is unjust.  Were you not under undue stress, I would
suggest the only real soulution would be to ship your five speed to me
here in the states, where the inspection people only care about
collecting the tax, er.. inspection fee.

Richard



--- Euan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi there folks

 This is so unjust. My 1985 300TD has failed its Warrant of Fitness
 because
 the rear hydraulic shock units on the self-levelling suspension are
 leaking
 tiny amounts of fluid. Result: automatic rejection 'cos WOFs cannot
 be
 issued in NZ for vehicles with dodgy shocks.

 Now, you tell me: how often would these WOF inspectors detect a
 leaking gas
 shock? I'll tell you. Hardly ever. The two rear gas shocks on my
 Toyota
 Hilux 4WD were filled with nothing but rust and dust . They fell
 apart when
 I replaced them - after the vehicle had survived several WOF
 inspections,
 that is.

 Anyway, I'm needing two units to replace mine. Does anyone have a set
 in
 good condition going spare? Part number is A123 320 07 03. My vehicle
 number
 is WDB123190 2F 043108.

 Alternatively, I have been quoted half the MB dealer price for a
 no-star
 pair from the manufacturer, parallel-imported into NZ. What's the
 story
 here? How is that the manufacturer sells the units independently like
 this?

 Cheers

 Euan

 1985 300TD 5-spd manual
 201K miles

 ___

 Euan S Kennedy
 5 Banks Avenue
 Shirley, Christchurch 8061
 New Zealand

 Phone +64 3 980 5712
 Cellphone  027 326 3245
 E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
well aside from the engine size, the difference is one is covered, one 
is not.  They will all crack though.


Rich Thomas wrote:


Are there differences in the two cars?

--R


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Clutch Bleed 240D

2006-07-03 Thread Mitch Haley
John Ingram wrote:
 
 I have just completed an engine switch on my 83 240D.  One of the
 last things I need to do is bleed the clutch cylinders.  The manual
 says it has to be done backwards (fluid from the slave cylinder to
 the brake reservoir).  I am not sure how to do this and was hoping
 someone on the list has done it.  What is the best way to do this?

The book method is to run a hose from the nearest brake caliper bleeder
to the slave bleeder and pump the brakes. A better method is to use
a pressure bleeder on the slave cylinder, but then you need a way
to get rid of the excess fluid.



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey
Don't have any to sacrifice however next time your in town I'll let 
you come

and play with a couple still in cars, if you need tension relief.


In fact we're going there tomorrow, but that sort of thing is _not_
the reason I'm going there.  (And to Long Beach.)  Thanks anyway!
(And it's easier to transport a dead PCB than to transport my
test bench.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Tuna time!

2006-07-03 Thread Zeitgeist

That, my friend, is going to be a bargain at any price--carpe emptor!

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Clutch Bleed 240D

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

I have just completed an engine switch on my 83 240D.  One of the
last things I need to do is bleed the clutch cylinders.  The manual
says it has to be done backwards (fluid from the slave cylinder to
the brake reservoir).  I am not sure how to do this and was hoping
someone on the list has done it.  What is the best way to do this?


You need a three-foot (or thereabouts) length of tubing that will
slip tightly over the bleed nipples on the brake and clutch cylinders.
Next you put it in place and crack both bleeders and then you pump
the brakes some number of times.  (I always seem to use the RF brake.)
Close the bleeders and see if your clutch acts right yet.  Repeat as
required.  This is a perfect time to bleed the brake system and put
in new fluid, if you haven't done it more recently than two years ago.
It's also a perfect time to hose off your driveway if, as always
seems to happen to me, the hose pops off at least once during this
procedure.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Unimog Search....

2006-07-03 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Who's looking for a Unimog??

Here's one about 50 miles north of Phoenix.


http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/176642786.html


Good luck!

Chuck

On Jul 3, 2006, at 5:31 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:


My automatic eBay Unimog search has coughed up an auction for that
$17 Harbor Freight diesel compression tester.  Anyone care to watch
with me what the bidding frenzy will get to?  Winning bidder is also
on the hook for $8 shipping, so if bidding goes to more than about $10
it's caveat emptor time!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=33754353

What's next, foot-pump air compressors as used on Jaguars
and Rolls Royces?  String, as used in hospitals?  (No wait,
that one's been done!)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Unimog Search....

2006-07-03 Thread Bob Rentfro
That one would be a get-it-running-to-get-it-out deal. I'm not sure you 
could get a trailer back to where that dude lives.


Bob Rentfro (I live where the roads are paved)
'77 300D 155K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 67K

- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 7:29 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Unimog Search



Who's looking for a Unimog??

Here's one about 50 miles north of Phoenix.


http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/176642786.html


Good luck!

Chuck

On Jul 3, 2006, at 5:31 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:


My automatic eBay Unimog search has coughed up an auction for that
$17 Harbor Freight diesel compression tester.  Anyone care to watch
with me what the bidding frenzy will get to?  Winning bidder is also
on the hook for $8 shipping, so if bidding goes to more than about $10
it's caveat emptor time!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=33754353

What's next, foot-pump air compressors as used on Jaguars
and Rolls Royces?  String, as used in hospitals?  (No wait,
that one's been done!)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch Bleed 240D

2006-07-03 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 7/3/2006 6:33:56 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I have  just completed an engine switch on my 83 240D.  One of the  
last  things I need to do is bleed the clutch cylinders.  The manual   
says it has to be done backwards (fluid from the slave cylinder to   
the brake reservoir).  I am not sure how to do this and was  hoping  
someone on the list has done it.  What is the best way  to do this?

Thanks,



John,
 
Pressure bleeding using the brake system has never been 100% successful,  
plus you run the risk of destroying your master cylinder if you pump the brakes 
 
and the piston travels into unused, and often rough, cylinder area.  And it  
is a messy job.
 
What has always worked for me is to fill the reservoir and open the slave  
bleeder until it drips by gravity (clutch pedal must be up).  Close the  
bleeder.  Then warm up the engine so you can start it in gear.  Plan a  safe 
route of 
about a mile or so.  Start the car in gear and drive  it.  The vibrations 
will finish bleeding the circuit.  Occasionally,  while driving, push the 
clutch 
pedal down, but always pull it back up and keep  driving until the clutch 
function returns.  Never fails.   
 
Be safe,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] Tuna time!

2006-07-03 Thread Bob DuPuy

My latin sucks, but isn't that sieze the buyer? What are your
intentions is you catch him/

Bob DuPuy

On 7/3/06, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

That, my friend, is going to be a bargain at any price--carpe emptor!

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG




Re: [MBZ] Got any spare rear shock units for 300TD?

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 05:20:06 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  is WDB123190 2F 043108.
 
 What does the 'F' mean?  I thought it was always 0 or 1 for LHD/RHD.

And I always thought those digits listed the type of transmission
installed:

  10 = four speed manual
  12 = automatic
1A (I think) = five speed manual


But then, maybe thats for LHD and 20, 22, and 2A would be the RHD
equivalents. But that's purely a wild guess.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Tuna time!

2006-07-03 Thread Zeitgeist

Fine quality goods like this item always seize a buyer--it's guaranteed!

On 7/3/06, Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


My latin sucks, but isn't that sieze the buyer? What are your
intentions is you catch him/



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Tuna time!

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

My latin sucks, but isn't that sieze the buyer? What are your
intentions is you catch him/


Shake him down?  Carpe carp-eh?: sieze the fish?  (Canada)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Tuna time!

2006-07-03 Thread Bob Rentfro

Bob wondered:
My latin sucks, but isn't that sieze the buyer? What are your
intentions is you catch him/
Sometimes with sellers a German phrase is more correct:
treten Sie den Verkäufer in den Nüssen
I say seller beware.
Bob Rentfro




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-07-03 Thread Woodlandtaylors
Jim,

You should bring a small trailer and I could load it probably with enough
parts to build a 300D engine for a generator project --- you can have them
on the house.
Dennis T


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 7:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

 Don't have any to sacrifice however next time your in town I'll let 
 you come
 and play with a couple still in cars, if you need tension relief.

In fact we're going there tomorrow, but that sort of thing is _not_
the reason I'm going there.  (And to Long Beach.)  Thanks anyway!
(And it's easier to transport a dead PCB than to transport my
test bench.)

-- Jim


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[MBZ] OM616 to OM617 - revisiting tranny question

2006-07-03 Thread Steve MacSween
on 6/29/06 1:36 PM, Steve MacSween at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Do I have ANY hope of successfully using the original 240d tranny with
 the OM617, or am I just going to grenade it? It's absolutely perfect in
 every way, right now. Right now no one has any decent used transmissions
 around here, and I don't imagine our listmom is drooling to ship any of his
 up here to Kanuckistan :-0

TKS

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)




[MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Steve MacSween
1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being lazy,
just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up and
put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

TKS

-- 
Mac
Steve MacSween
Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)




Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Rich Thomas
OK, I got that part about the engines being different.  But if the parts 
are the same, and the problem the same, why the coverage difference?  Is 
it just one of those things?


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

well aside from the engine size, the difference is one is covered, one 
is not.  They will all crack though.


Rich Thomas wrote:

 


Are there differences in the two cars?

--R
   



 



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 10:40:12 -0700 Woodlandtaylors
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim,
 
 You should bring a small trailer and I could load it probably with
 enough parts to build a 300D engine for a generator project --- you can
 have them on the house.

Now if that doesn't get him drooling ... !


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 13:48:29 -0400 Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?

That sounds about right.


 2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being
 lazy, just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car
 up and put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)

It's kind of messy, but there's no prohibition on doing it that way.



Craig



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Luther Gulseth


There is also the large blue phillips drain plug you can use first.  That 
will minimize the splash effect.  Pop open the expansion tank cap before you 
open the blue drain.  When the radiator is drained, I just disconnected the 
expansion-radiator hose and drained there.

Luther

Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 13:48:29 -0400 Steve MacSween
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?
 
 That sounds about right.
 
 
  2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being
  lazy, just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car
  up and put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)
 
 It's kind of messy, but there's no prohibition on doing it that way.
 
 
 
 Craig
 
 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)





Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey

1. IIRC, the flush mixture stays in for 20 minutes. Yes?


Something like that.  Running.



2. Is it acceptable to use the lower rad hose as a drain? (Not being 
lazy,
just my back is sore as the devil and I don't want to jack the car up 
and

put a jackstand under it, to use the drain.)


Whatever you want.  I ended up using a free flush method where the water
was teed into the upper rad hose and I let it run out the normal fill
spot.  Made a heck of a mess, but rinsed pretty thoroughly!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-07-03 Thread Jim Cathey
You should bring a small trailer and I could load it probably with 
enough
parts to build a 300D engine for a generator project --- you can have 
them

on the house.


What an offer!  Unfortunately we're going to be in the SDL this trip,
though I might take you up on that offer, using my brother's place as
a staging area.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 18:12:17 - Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 
 
 There is also the large blue phillips drain plug you can use first.

CAREFUL! That drain plug (through the center of one of the lower radiator
supports) is plastic and you can break it rather easily when re-installing
it.

You do not, however, need to raise the car up on jackstands when using it.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Towel has been thrown: time for the OM616 - OM617 swap

2006-07-03 Thread Fmiser
rumor has it that Steve wrote:
 
 2. Do I have ANY hope of successfully using the original 240d tranny
 with the OM617, or am I just going to grenade it? It's absolutely
 perfect in every way, right now. Right now no one has any decent used
 transmissions around here, and I don't imagine our listmom is drooling
 to ship any of his up here to Kanuckistan :-0

Well, in high-horsepower big trucks (700+ HP and 2500+ lb-ft) the
reliable word is use the big horsepower only in the high gears

In otherwords, even thought the transmission is not rated for that much
power, the danger is only when that torque is multiplied by the
transmission gear ratio.

So, I suspect the same is true for us. Thus if you plan on
foot-to-the-floor, 5000 RPM, max torque in 1st gear - you could have a
problem! But if you go easy in 1st and don't wail on it until 3rd, my
_guess_ is the transmission will be fine.

If not, I did suggest a thing!! *grin*

-- Philip, still without a turbo car with a manual transmission



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Luther Gulseth


BDTD.  Need to purchase a couple from Rusty next order
http://tinyurl.com/fvloe  Radiator Drain Plug on Rusty's site

Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 18:12:17 - Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
  
  
  There is also the large blue phillips drain plug you can use first.
 
 CAREFUL! That drain plug (through the center of one of the lower radiator
 supports) is plastic and you can break it rather easily when re-installing
 it.
 
 You do not, however, need to raise the car up on jackstands when using it.
 
 
 Craig
 




-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)





Re: [MBZ] OM616 to OM617 - revisiting tranny question

2006-07-03 Thread Mitch Haley
Steve MacSween wrote:
 
 on 6/29/06 1:36 PM, Steve MacSween at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Do I have ANY hope of successfully using the original 240d tranny with
  the OM617, or am I just going to grenade it? 

This was a manny tranny, right? I haven't heard of problems with that.
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?s=threadid=88699
If it's an auto, adjustments will have to be made to keep it from slipping,
and the shift points might still be off.



Re: [MBZ] Towel has been thrown: time for the OM616 - OM617 swap

2006-07-03 Thread David Brodbeck
Fmiser wrote:
 rumor has it that Steve wrote:
  
   
 2. Do I have ANY hope of successfully using the original 240d tranny
 with the OM617, or am I just going to grenade it? It's absolutely
 perfect in every way, right now. Right now no one has any decent used
 transmissions around here, and I don't imagine our listmom is drooling
 to ship any of his up here to Kanuckistan :-0
 

 Well, in high-horsepower big trucks (700+ HP and 2500+ lb-ft) the
 reliable word is use the big horsepower only in the high gears

 In otherwords, even thought the transmission is not rated for that much
 power, the danger is only when that torque is multiplied by the
 transmission gear ratio.
   

That will protect the rest of the driveline from excessive torque, but
*may* not protect the transmission, depending on how it's built.  For
example, VW Bus transmissions are known for having a weak 4th gear, and
it's pretty common to break 4th when, say, a Toyota V6 engine is swapped
in.  Similarly, on Ford AOD automatics, the overdrive brake band is weak
and often fails with higher power. It may be good advice if the
transmission doesn't have any weak spots in the higher gears, though.

Are we talking about a manual 240D trans, here?  I thought other people
had already done this kind of swap before without problems.



Re: [MBZ] Citric acid flush questions

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 20:54:23 - Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 
 
 BDTD.  Need to purchase a couple from Rusty next order
 http://tinyurl.com/fvloe  Radiator Drain Plug on Rusty's site

$4.58 for THAT! Oh my.

Anyway, I forgot to request one when I made my last order.


Craig



[MBZ] Jim, bring the MOG

2006-07-03 Thread redghost

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/car/178003499.html

might be able to get into the used car restore gig with these

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




[MBZ] Another one for Jim C

2006-07-03 Thread redghost


http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/car/177734929.html

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Looking for a MOG?

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 15:27:57 -0700 redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/car/176926728.html
 
 this would be a great one to take on the ArcticQ.  Gonna cost ya though

Indeed. But can you trust him if he can't even spell pristine?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Dave Wakin

I had emailed the guy who had the car for sale (1985 380SL), and this is
what he had to say:

The subframe was updated in 1979 and the last of the 450SLs and all 380/560
|R107's have the updated subframe. I called my old mechanic in Virginia and
he says the R107 subframes that MB is shipping now (yes, the 450SL recall is
still in effect!) are the same as the one on my 380SL. He has heard of a few
higher mileage cars cracking/breaking their mounts, but they just weld and
align. The only time they have replaced a subframe on the 380/560 series was
when the mounts on both sides had failed.

The car in question was also on ebay, item 180001897460 and just ended a
little while ago. I was actually surprised to see he did not update the
descriptyion to reflect what we found. I wonder if he plans on telling the
buyer.

Dave W

- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question



OK, I got that part about the engines being different.  But if the parts
are the same, and the problem the same, why the coverage difference?  Is
it just one of those things?

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


well aside from the engine size, the difference is one is covered, one
is not.  They will all crack though.

Rich Thomas wrote:




Are there differences in the two cars?

--R







___
http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 107 Subframe Question

2006-07-03 Thread Dave Wakin
I had emailed the guy who had the car for sale (1985 380SL), and this is 
what he had to say:


The subframe was updated in 1979 and the last of the 450SLs and all 380/560 
|R107's have the updated subframe. I called my old mechanic in Virginia and 
he says the R107 subframes that MB is shipping now (yes, the 450SL recall is 
still in effect!) are the same as the one on my 380SL. He has heard of a few 
higher mileage cars cracking/breaking their mounts, but they just weld and 
align. The only time they have replaced a subframe on the 380/560 series was 
when the mounts on both sides had failed.


The car in question was also on ebay, item 180001897460 and just ended a 
little while ago. I was actually surprised to see he did not update the 
descriptyion to reflect what we found. I wonder if he plans on telling the 
buyer.


Dave W





Re: [MBZ] Clutch Bleed 240D

2006-07-03 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 07:27:27 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I have just completed an engine switch on my 83 240D.  One of the
  last things I need to do is bleed the clutch cylinders.  The manual
  says it has to be done backwards (fluid from the slave cylinder to
  the brake reservoir).  I am not sure how to do this and was hoping
  someone on the list has done it.  What is the best way to do this?
 
 You need a three-foot (or thereabouts) length of tubing that will
 slip tightly over the bleed nipples on the brake and clutch cylinders.
 Next you put it in place and crack both bleeders and then you pump
 the brakes some number of times.  (I always seem to use the RF brake.)
 Close the bleeders and see if your clutch acts right yet.  Repeat as
 required.  This is a perfect time to bleed the brake system and put
 in new fluid, if you haven't done it more recently than two years ago.
 It's also a perfect time to hose off your driveway if, as always
 seems to happen to me, the hose pops off at least once during this
 procedure.

I was never able to get fluid flow through the tubing without a big flood
down the inside of the wheel, so I put together some adaptors to use my
pressure bleeder.


Craig
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