Re: [MBZ] [Biodiesel] Appleseed reactor and quality fuel production

2007-06-28 Thread ernest breakfield
hi Luther!

you may be perhaps assuming a good deal less swirling than what i've 
observed; there's not likely 35 gals of anything sitting... and how much 
difference does it really make if the reaction happens sooner or later? 
nobody's standing there holding their breath waiting for it.   ;-)
i know Mark; she's dined at this very table. i've never heard her 
talk about this, but i'll ask her next time we speak.

not likely we'll ever see anything complying with 6751; for one, 
last time i checked, that only applies to B20 blends, and (as you may 
know) isn't really attainable unless you're working with oil from Soy, 
thanks to the Soy Growers and their friends at the National Biodiesel 
Board who drafted the standard that eventually got adopted.

infopo(o)p, eh? jeeze,... 20 pages of conflicting info on just this 
topic alone; a good example of just one reason why i no longer look in 
there very often!   ;-)

so; any chance you'll address the rest of my points in my last post 
to you?


cheers!
e


Luther wrote:
 The only mixing action happens at the pump and where your swirling 
 happens at
 the top.  What happens in the other 35 gal of the tank?  The liquids just sit
 there and do NOTHING that helps the reaction.  They do start to separate the
 BioD and glycerin apart, but only to be re-mixed by the pump later.  This is a
 known and accepted fact by the designer of the Appleseed, Maria Girl Mark
 Alovert. 

 When you work with 1L test batches (Dr.Pepper style), you mix the complete
 reaction by shaking the bottle.  This way can acheive high conversion 
 BioD that
 is very close to, if not complying with ASTM 6751. 

 Do you do any conversion testing of your finished BioD?  Using the 3/27 (Jan
 Warnqvist's method) method?
 http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9411061471/m/8281092351

 Here are the basic ASTM tests at an affordable cost. 
 http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/biodieseltesting.php

 If you test, you might find that the Appleseed reactor will not produce ASTM
 quality fuel in a one stage method. 

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT Names and Paranoia and Internet and iMacs and On and On

2007-06-28 Thread Zoltan Finks
If I didn't have to lovingly care for my Benzes, I'd accept your invitation.

Brian
Who would look after the Benzes? Who?

On 6/27/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 And if they don't work, we have these nice padded rooms -

 On 6/27/07, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  We have meds to address the paranoia.
 
  On 6/27/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise
 of fighting a foreign enemy.
 -James Madison
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] i am nearly king of the pismo (and i have to get my mother one too!)

2007-06-28 Thread Sunil Hari
what makes a pismo so special to you?  I've been running the G4 powerbooks
for a few years now and can't see why you'd want anything slower.

On 6/27/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 today arrived in my mailbox one superdrive innards for a pismo.  i've had
 for weeks now a non-reading dvd rom pismo module.  i have screwdriver in
 my
 hand.  h, i'm so excited.

 i gig ram, airport card, verizon pcmcia mobile broadband card, 500mhz,
 40meg
 HD, two new batteries and, in a few minutes, superdrive.  all i really
 lack
 is the g4 upgrade to run idvd with or i'd be absolute king of the pismos!

 for you non-mac types reading this, i have a pentium 2 class laptop that i
 have put way too much money into so i run around telling everyone i'm king
 of the computing world.

 my mother actually wants one now.  she can't have mine, that's for sure!
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-- 
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi - for sale
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] i am nearly king of the pismo (and i have to get my mother one too!)

2007-06-28 Thread Gary Hurst
it's hard to say.  there is just something about  a pismo.  and i'm not in
the kind of rush you are in anyway.

On 6/28/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 what makes a pismo so special to you?  I've been running the G4 powerbooks
 for a few years now and can't see why you'd want anything slower.

 On 6/27/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  today arrived in my mailbox one superdrive innards for a pismo.  i've
 had
  for weeks now a non-reading dvd rom pismo module.  i have screwdriver in
  my
  hand.  h, i'm so excited.
 
  i gig ram, airport card, verizon pcmcia mobile broadband card, 500mhz,
  40meg
  HD, two new batteries and, in a few minutes, superdrive.  all i really
  lack
  is the g4 upgrade to run idvd with or i'd be absolute king of the
 pismos!
 
  for you non-mac types reading this, i have a pentium 2 class laptop that
 i
  have put way too much money into so i run around telling everyone i'm
 king
  of the computing world.
 
  my mother actually wants one now.  she can't have mine, that's for sure!
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 --
 Sunil Hari
 1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi - for sale
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] 190D status

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 Jim, get the refill canister and a jug of cleaner.  Should reduce can
 waste and be much cheaper.  I saw the fellow at the stealer shop
 using one and he was LIBERAL with the stuff to get a look at some
 cars engine underside

I do that with WD-40.  May have a look for gallon jugs of BC.

No status lately, I've been wrestling with a leaking oil seal
in the Dodge.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] i am nearly king of the pismo (and i have to get my mother one too!)

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 it's hard to say.  there is just something about  a pismo.  and i'm 
 not in
 the kind of rush you are in anyway.

Ours are in daily use here.  We like them, hard to say exactly why.
Something ineffable.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] MBZ 87 300D Turbo smoke/idle problems.

2007-06-28 Thread Allan Streib
Unburned fuel could be due to too much fuel or not enough air.  Have
you already gone through the air intake pathways to make sure you
haven't sucked in a sock or have other significant blockage?

Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Gray smoke is unburned fuel.  Almost has to be an injection problem -- 
 are the opening pressures OK?  If so, it's something in the IP, either 
 bad pressure valves or actual plunger/sleeve damage.

 Check for leaking fuel lines - if they leak out, air leaks in under 
 suction!  The fuel preheater and small filter are all under suction, so 
 you could have a leak at the preheater thermostat or associated lines.  
 A stream of small bubbles in the clear filter is an air leak.

 A leaking pressure valve or seal will usually cause rough running a 
 terrible injector knock (from late injection) but usually no smoke, as 
 there is no fuel being delivered.

 Check the oil for fuel smell, too -- if the IP is leaking out the 
 bottom seals on the plungers, it will dilute the oil and cause havoc.

 Peter

-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] i am nearly king of the pismo (and i have to get my mother one too!)

2007-06-28 Thread Ed Booher
On 6/28/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 it's hard to say.  there is just something about  a pismo.  and i'm not in
 the kind of rush you are in anyway.


The Pismo is the W123 of the Mac world. It's ugly, it's slow and by
God you *know* you can do better, but there is just something about it
that endears it to your heart. You know it's trustworthy, stable, and
built like a tank. So you hug it when you see it in the morning
because you know it will get you where you are going and home with no
issues.

-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

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Re: [MBZ] MBZ 87 300D Turbo smoke/idle problems.

2007-06-28 Thread dave walton
That is similar to what happened when the head gasket blew on my 1994 S350.
Except that it happened all at once, got gradually. The failure caused oil
to dump into the #1 cylinder. The cylinder still fired (until oil pressure
built up), and the compression actually went up in that cylinder - probably
because all the oil caused the rings to seal better. There was sooo much
smoke that it appeared more white than grey or black, but smelled like motor
oil. I've since heard this is a common failure for that engine (one of
many).
I rather doubt your problem is similar, but throw I'd throw it out there
just in case...

-Dave Walton

On 6/27/07, Ken Rushing [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 To review:

 Within a couple of days my car began to smoke terrible (thick grey smoke)
 and idle very rough. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.
 The radiator hoses are not pressurized when the engine is cold. Also the
 coolant level has not changed and there are no fuel leaks. I've changed
 the
 plugs, the camshaft timing is good, ran it with fresh diesel
 then ran with diesel injection cleaner. I removed the injectors and viewed
 the spray pattern on each and they look good. EGR valve is not stuck open.
 All ball pins in the prechamber are intact. The exhaust tappets have only
 about 1-2 mm play. I ran a compression test but I'm not sure what the
 limits
 are. The highest was 460 psi and the lowest was 410 psi. The other four
 were
 440-450 psi. Thanks again for all your help.

 Ken
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[MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Allan Streib
OK, all of a sudden the central locking on my 300D is not working
correctly.  I know only enough to know this must mean a vacuum leak
somewhere.

Engine shuts off fine, and all doors lock if I lock the car right away
after stopping.  Unlocking is another story, if even 10 minutes pass
the doors do not unlock, until I start the car, and even then it takes
10 seconds or so for enough vacuum to build to unlock.

I have a Mity-Vac somewhere at home -- where do I start checking?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] i am nearly king of the pismo (and i have to get my mother one too!)

2007-06-28 Thread Gary Hurst
this is a part of it.  just dead reliable and sturdy.

it's the only laptop i've ever used that i can actually type fairly well on.

the drive slot allows for interchangeable modules or even an extra battery.
how many laptops can you actually work all day on battery power?  pop out
the extra battery and put in cd/dvd burner or zip drive (yeah, i still use
one of those).  use pcmcia card for broadband access or for compact flash
card.it's just darn versatile from a practical standpoint -- think 1979
123 wagon and you have the picture.

On 6/28/07, Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On 6/28/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  it's hard to say.  there is just something about  a pismo.  and i'm not
 in
  the kind of rush you are in anyway.
 

 The Pismo is the W123 of the Mac world. It's ugly, it's slow and by
 God you *know* you can do better, but there is just something about it
 that endears it to your heart. You know it's trustworthy, stable, and
 built like a tank. So you hug it when you see it in the morning
 because you know it will get you where you are going and home with no
 issues.

 --
 Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start

2007-06-28 Thread Troy Kocher
I do have spark I tested the front most plug wire with a screwdriver.  I
also removed one of the center plugs, left it connected to the plug wire and
watched it spark. .

Troy

On 6/27/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A KE-jet engine will run without a working OVP relay, it will run without
 the injection computer working but will not run without a working ignition
 computer.
 You do have spark?

 - Original Message -
 From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start


  Crank position sensor (the one on the rear of the engine) -- no spark.
  Just out of pure silliness, have you replaced the OVP relay?
 
  Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start

2007-06-28 Thread Troy Kocher
Haven't replaced anything yet. .

I DO have spark when I take a plug out and lay it atop the rocker cover I
can watch it spark. .

Troy

On 6/27/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Crank position sensor (the one on the rear of the engine) -- no spark.
 Just out of pure silliness, have you replaced the OVP relay?

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 I have a Mity-Vac somewhere at home -- where do I start checking?

In the trunk.  Lines are accessible at the fuel flap lock.  Test
it, and the trunk actuator.  (The latter is what I have found is
the most likely to break first.)

Under the carpets are plastic channels with the vacuum system
tees in them.  That's next.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread R A Bennell
My old 115 has intermittent door locks too. I have the vacuum pump tester 
doodad and need to start looking as well.
Sometimes things work reasonably well - especially in hot weather, which leads 
me to believe that the rubbery
connectors are failing. They seal better when warmed up?  Often when I stop the 
car, the doors will all lock when I
lock the driver's door but not always. I have to watch to see if the knobs go 
down and go around locking doors if
they do not. For the longest time, I did not think my car had the locking fuel 
door but then one day it worked too.
I think I need to order a bunch of the connector fittings from Rusty and have 
them available before I go digging to
ensure that I can replace anything that looks or acts bad. Anyone have any idea 
what I should order in terms of T
fittings and or straight fittings - IE - how many there may be in the vehicle? 
Given its age, it probably is not a
bad idea to replace most or all of them. I asked but Rusty does not have a sort 
of sample kit available. He just
sells them individually. I am sort of hoping that I do not need to tear the 
doors open. I have not tried removing
panels from the MB but past experience with removing door panels on cars has 
shown me that it is usually difficult
to do without causing some sort of damage to the panel. The clip things are 
usually stuck pretty good after years
of being there and the panels are usually made of thin masonite or something 
that does not stand up to much prying.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:32 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 I have a Mity-Vac somewhere at home -- where do I start checking?

In the trunk.  Lines are accessible at the fuel flap lock.  Test
it, and the trunk actuator.  (The latter is what I have found is
the most likely to break first.)

Under the carpets are plastic channels with the vacuum system
tees in them.  That's next.

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 me to believe that the rubbery connectors are failing.

The _usual_ failure is torn diaphragms rather than failed rubber
connectors, but both are possible.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 I am sort of hoping that I do not need to tear the doors open.

You can dream!

 experience with removing door panels on cars has shown me that
 it is usually difficult to do without causing some sort of damage

Not too bad, if you do it right.  A putty knife slipped behind the
plastic pop connector will usually pry them out without panel damage,
you don't ever pry against the panel itself.  You may need new clips,
though.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] MBZ 87 300D Turbo smoke/idle problems.

2007-06-28 Thread Marshall Booth
dave walton wrote:
 That is similar to what happened when the head gasket blew on my 1994 S350.
 Except that it happened all at once, got gradually. The failure caused oil
 to dump into the #1 cylinder. The cylinder still fired (until oil pressure
 built up), and the compression actually went up in that cylinder - probably
 because all the oil caused the rings to seal better. There was sooo much
 smoke that it appeared more white than grey or black, but smelled like motor
 oil. I've since heard this is a common failure for that engine (one of
 many).

But the oil level dropped dramatically. I don't recall that the oil 
level is dropping!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread R A Bennell
So, are the diaphragms available or do I have to buy the whole mechanism (if it 
is even available)? No bone yards
with stuff like this around here so used is out unless I order it from down 
south.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 11:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 me to believe that the rubbery connectors are failing.

The _usual_ failure is torn diaphragms rather than failed rubber
connectors, but both are possible.

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread R A Bennell
OK, if I don't pry against the panel, what do I pry against?? It appears to me 
that I would be prying against the
panel whether I push or pull the putty knife.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 11:32 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 I am sort of hoping that I do not need to tear the doors open.

You can dream!

 experience with removing door panels on cars has shown me that
 it is usually difficult to do without causing some sort of damage

Not too bad, if you do it right.  A putty knife slipped behind the
plastic pop connector will usually pry them out without panel damage,
you don't ever pry against the panel itself.  You may need new clips,
though.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] Firmer springs for '92 300e?

2007-06-28 Thread Tony Wirtel
The springs in my car have turned to mush.  I've heard that at some
point (1990?) the spring rate was decreased to give a softer, more
'Merican ride and that earlier springs (like from 1988) would fit and
be more firm.  Has anyone done this?  On Rusty's site only the rear
springs are listed with different part numbers.  Rusty doesn't know if
the '88 ones will fit.

FWIW, this work will be done along with rear subframe mount
replacements as the insides of the rear tires are wearing; I don't
notice a squirrily ride in windy highway conditions or funky pulling
on acceleration/deceleration so at this time I'm holding out on link
replacements.

TOny Wirtel
'92 300e/2.6

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[MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again

2007-06-28 Thread Rich Thomas
So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit squatty, and wheels look 
like maybe they have some

excess camber?  Or are they supposed to be like that?  Driving the car 
on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a tad, I'm wo(a)ndering 
if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts needing replacement, 
or something else?

--R

84300SD (son's)
79300TD



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[MBZ] OT - non-Benz Help for friend in Arkansas

2007-06-28 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Hi all,

A friend of mine lives in Berryville, Arkansas and is having  
overheating problems in her '96 Mercury Gran Marquis..

Local shop said it would cost over $1000 to repair and she cannot  
afford that.

Anybody know of an honest shop/mechanic in that area that can help  
her out???

Thanks and take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
Hi Randy,
Slide the knife between metal door frame and the door panel - until you 
hit one of the snap-in pins - with a slight pressure against the plastic peg 
you can turn the putty knife - although I use a Oyster knife. You cannot 
avoid pressing on the panel completrely, but by having the knife against the 
peg it will reduce the possibity of damage to the panel.

The only problem is damaging the panels where the holes for the pegs are 
made and wallowing them out where they no longer hold the peg in place.  You 
are unlikely to damage yours.

The plastic pegs are cheap and easily replaced but I seldom damage them.

It's not as difficult as you are imagining -- it'll be obvious once you 
see how it goes together -
take care --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 OK, if I don't pry against the panel, what do I pry against?? It appears 
 to me that I would be prying against the
 panel whether I push or pull the putty knife.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 11:32 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 I am sort of hoping that I do not need to tear the doors open.

 You can dream!

 experience with removing door panels on cars has shown me that
 it is usually difficult to do without causing some sort of damage

 Not too bad, if you do it right.  A putty knife slipped behind the
 plastic pop connector will usually pry them out without panel damage,
 you don't ever pry against the panel itself.  You may need new clips,
 though.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
I don't believe the diaphrams are available seperately - have always replace 
the assy -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 So, are the diaphragms available or do I have to buy the whole mechanism 
 (if it is even available)? No bone yards
 with stuff like this around here so used is out unless I order it from 
 down south.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 11:30 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 me to believe that the rubbery connectors are failing.

 The _usual_ failure is torn diaphragms rather than failed rubber
 connectors, but both are possible.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Allan Streib
LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I don't believe the diaphrams are available seperately - have always
 replace the assy -

I guess using an old raincoat and shoe goo probably won't do the job?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Car comparo

2007-06-28 Thread Redghost
I am in Gump because that is all I can afford now the oldest is in  
private high school.  Tuition is limiting me to taco stand grease for  
fuel and salvaging parts at the PnP to keep her running.

clay

On Jun 22, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had to read the other post to put this into context. I thought  
 maybe
 you were talking about Porsche or BMW owners, and I know they all  
 have short
 dipsticks.

 As a Porsche driver of long standing. I find this kind of comment  
 pretty
 stupid and in rebuttal, I would ask why would one drive around in  
 an ancient and
 decrepit MB with all kinds of deferred repairs?

 To be seen in an MB, that's why.

 RLE





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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread LWB250
You don't need to tear the doors open unless you find
a bad actuator in  one.

The vacuum locking system only appears to be magic;
it's really quite simple:

1.) A main valve on the driver's door

2.) Hoses with a green tracer from there to various
tees in the system for opening (unlock) vacuum

3.) Hoses with a red tracer from there to various
tees in the system for closing (lock) vacuum

4.) Actuators at each door and trunk lid

The main junction is under the carpet in the footwell
of the forward passenger seat.  Separate the
distribution tee from the supply line and apply vacuum
to it.  If the system won't hold vacuum, separate the
lines from the tee and start applying vacuum to each
one individually.  Make sure the lock or actuator is
in the right position (unlocked if you're testing the
locking circuit) so you can see the actuator function.

From here you can narrow it down to a particular door,
trunk, or gas door actuator.

I have found in a number of instances where an
actuator will hold vacuum in one position but not the
other, as the folds of the diaphragm create enough
of a seal to prevent a leak.

Testing and troubleshouting the vacuum system
shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes if you have
MityVac or some sort of vacuum source.

There is some additional magic involving later model
systems that utilize the electric pump, like the 126
and 124.  If anyone is interested, I'll amend this
with the information for those systems.

Dan

--- R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My old 115 has intermittent door locks too. I have
 the vacuum pump tester doodad and need to start
 looking as well.
 Sometimes things work reasonably well - especially
 in hot weather, which leads me to believe that the
 rubbery
 connectors are failing. They seal better when warmed
 up?  Often when I stop the car, the doors will all
 lock when I
 lock the driver's door but not always. I have to
 watch to see if the knobs go down and go around
 locking doors if
 they do not. For the longest time, I did not think
 my car had the locking fuel door but then one day it
 worked too.
 I think I need to order a bunch of the connector
 fittings from Rusty and have them available before I
 go digging to
 ensure that I can replace anything that looks or
 acts bad. Anyone have any idea what I should order
 in terms of T
 fittings and or straight fittings - IE - how many
 there may be in the vehicle? Given its age, it
 probably is not a
 bad idea to replace most or all of them. I asked but
 Rusty does not have a sort of sample kit available.
 He just
 sells them individually. I am sort of hoping that I
 do not need to tear the doors open. I have not tried
 removing
 panels from the MB but past experience with removing
 door panels on cars has shown me that it is usually
 difficult
 to do without causing some sort of damage to the
 panel. The clip things are usually stuck pretty good
 after years
 of being there and the panels are usually made of
 thin masonite or something that does not stand up to
 much prying.
 
 Randy
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
 Jim Cathey
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:32 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing
 
 
  I have a Mity-Vac somewhere at home -- where do I
 start checking?
 
 In the trunk.  Lines are accessible at the fuel flap
 lock.  Test
 it, and the trunk actuator.  (The latter is what I
 have found is
 the most likely to break first.)
 
 Under the carpets are plastic channels with the
 vacuum system
 tees in them.  That's next.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Car comparo

2007-06-28 Thread R A Bennell
My reason, for what it is worth, was that I always wanted a diesel and I 
couldn't really justify the cost of a new
pickup truck with one and really didn't need a 3/4 ton which is what most are. 
I considered a Jetta TDI but really
wanted a car that was a bit bigger. I admit that I like the fact that it is an 
MB but  I sort of doubt that most
people are all that impressed with the fact that it is an MB because of its 
age. It looks quite nice as the paint
is shiny and it is a real sharp color but it is fairly obviously old.

Randy (who has 2 boys - one trying to get into graduate school and one about to 
start college and is lucky to be
able to sort of afford the old MB)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Redghost
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car comparo


I am in Gump because that is all I can afford now the oldest is in
private high school.  Tuition is limiting me to taco stand grease for
fuel and salvaging parts at the PnP to keep her running.

clay

On Jun 22, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had to read the other post to put this into context. I thought
 maybe
 you were talking about Porsche or BMW owners, and I know they all
 have short
 dipsticks.

 As a Porsche driver of long standing. I find this kind of comment
 pretty
 stupid and in rebuttal, I would ask why would one drive around in
 an ancient and
 decrepit MB with all kinds of deferred repairs?

 To be seen in an MB, that's why.

 RLE





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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread R A Bennell
That is a great description of how to test it. You have given me the incentive 
to get at it.

I wish someone could give similar instructions to test the power window in the 
driver's door of my wife's 98 Toyota
Avalon. I have the wiring diagram but Lord there are a lot of wires and such. I 
will tackle it but fear causing
harm. Again, I really do not wish to tear the door itself apart if I don't have 
to. I plan to provide power to the
motor to see if it runs up or down. If so, I should be able to rule it out.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of LWB250
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


You don't need to tear the doors open unless you find
a bad actuator in  one.

The vacuum locking system only appears to be magic;
it's really quite simple:

1.) A main valve on the driver's door

2.) Hoses with a green tracer from there to various
tees in the system for opening (unlock) vacuum

3.) Hoses with a red tracer from there to various
tees in the system for closing (lock) vacuum

4.) Actuators at each door and trunk lid

The main junction is under the carpet in the footwell
of the forward passenger seat.  Separate the
distribution tee from the supply line and apply vacuum
to it.  If the system won't hold vacuum, separate the
lines from the tee and start applying vacuum to each
one individually.  Make sure the lock or actuator is
in the right position (unlocked if you're testing the
locking circuit) so you can see the actuator function.

From here you can narrow it down to a particular door,
trunk, or gas door actuator.

I have found in a number of instances where an
actuator will hold vacuum in one position but not the
other, as the folds of the diaphragm create enough
of a seal to prevent a leak.

Testing and troubleshouting the vacuum system
shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes if you have
MityVac or some sort of vacuum source.

There is some additional magic involving later model
systems that utilize the electric pump, like the 126
and 124.  If anyone is interested, I'll amend this
with the information for those systems.

Dan

--- R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My old 115 has intermittent door locks too. I have
 the vacuum pump tester doodad and need to start
 looking as well.
 Sometimes things work reasonably well - especially
 in hot weather, which leads me to believe that the
 rubbery
 connectors are failing. They seal better when warmed
 up?  Often when I stop the car, the doors will all
 lock when I
 lock the driver's door but not always. I have to
 watch to see if the knobs go down and go around
 locking doors if
 they do not. For the longest time, I did not think
 my car had the locking fuel door but then one day it
 worked too.
 I think I need to order a bunch of the connector
 fittings from Rusty and have them available before I
 go digging to
 ensure that I can replace anything that looks or
 acts bad. Anyone have any idea what I should order
 in terms of T
 fittings and or straight fittings - IE - how many
 there may be in the vehicle? Given its age, it
 probably is not a
 bad idea to replace most or all of them. I asked but
 Rusty does not have a sort of sample kit available.
 He just
 sells them individually. I am sort of hoping that I
 do not need to tear the doors open. I have not tried
 removing
 panels from the MB but past experience with removing
 door panels on cars has shown me that it is usually
 difficult
 to do without causing some sort of damage to the
 panel. The clip things are usually stuck pretty good
 after years
 of being there and the panels are usually made of
 thin masonite or something that does not stand up to
 much prying.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
 Jim Cathey
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:32 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


  I have a Mity-Vac somewhere at home -- where do I
 start checking?

 In the trunk.  Lines are accessible at the fuel flap
 lock.  Test
 it, and the trunk actuator.  (The latter is what I
 have found is
 the most likely to break first.)

 Under the carpets are plastic channels with the
 vacuum system
 tees in them.  That's next.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread Redghost
When I wanted to tint my window, I had my wife do it.  She got really  
unhappy at the level of profanity that was being spewed on my end of  
the neighborhood.  Fear that the smaller children around us might  
expand their vocabulary.  The tint looks really good.


On Jun 23, 2007, at 4:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 In a message dated 6/23/2007 1:58:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Has  anyone here applied their own window tint?  A while back, I  
 picked  up
 some custom laser-cut window film off of ebay, for my S124.  I  
 just  now
 attempted to apply the RR window piece, but had to hastily abort  
 when  things
 went horribly awry.  I couldn't get some wrinkles/kinks out,  and  
 had to keep
 pulling the film up, again and again.  It sucks.   Damn, how much  
 do the
 shops charge to do this job?

 L'il  help?



 Casey,

 Did you put a drop of dish soap in the water to help lubricate  
 every  thing.
  I use a spray bottle with distilled water and just a drop of  dish  
 soap to
 lubricate things.  Spray the glass and then spray the tint on  the  
 surface you
 are going to squeegee.  small bubbles will evaporate  through the  
 film but big
 ones must be pushed out.  It goes without saying  that this job  
 must be done
 in the shade, and a little humidity helps.

 By the way two guys near me developed the process, several years   
 ago, for
 using a single sheet of film inside the back window.  They  use the  
 above stuff
 plus a hair dryer to stretch the film.

 distilled water is preferred as it will require less soap and the  
 total
 residue left under the film will be less than using hard water.

 Good luck,

 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 267 K miles
 98 ML 320, 151 K  miles




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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread Zeitgeist
I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros install tint.
$250--ouch!


Casey
__
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'94 100CSQ Avant
'90 90Q
'89 Bluestar
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Re: [MBZ] MBZ 87 300D Turbo smoke/idle problems.

2007-06-28 Thread dave walton
I did not run the engine under that condition long enough to notice any oil
consumption. I'm sure it went down some, but with a 10qt reserve, it was not
significant. I also suspect that a little bit of oil makes a whole lotta
smoke.

-Dave Walton

On 6/28/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 dave walton wrote:
  That is similar to what happened when the head gasket blew on my 1994
 S350.
  Except that it happened all at once, got gradually. The failure caused
 oil
  to dump into the #1 cylinder. The cylinder still fired (until oil
 pressure
  built up), and the compression actually went up in that cylinder -
 probably
  because all the oil caused the rings to seal better. There was sooo much
  smoke that it appeared more white than grey or black, but smelled like
 motor
  oil. I've since heard this is a common failure for that engine (one of
  many).

 But the oil level dropped dramatically. I don't recall that the oil
 level is dropping!

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Car comparo

2007-06-28 Thread Rich Thomas
Just bought the boy Emil's 84 300SD, the car is 7 months older than the 
boy is but does not look its age.  We just spent a couple hours changing 
oil, checking it out, crawling around underneath to get him acquainted.  
A newer POS would have cost 2-3x as much, not nearly as classy.  He 
believes it will confer on him the status of an African klepto-dictator, 
might get some Zimbabwean or Burkina Faso flags to put on the front 
fenders and a parrot to ride on his shoulder.

--R

Redghost wrote:
 I am in Gump because that is all I can afford now the oldest is in  
 private high school.  Tuition is limiting me to taco stand grease for  
 fuel and salvaging parts at the PnP to keep her running.

 clay

 On Jun 22, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 I had to read the other post to put this into context. I thought  
 maybe
 you were talking about Porsche or BMW owners, and I know they all  
 have short
 dipsticks.

   
 As a Porsche driver of long standing. I find this kind of comment  
 pretty
 stupid and in rebuttal, I would ask why would one drive around in  
 an ancient and
 decrepit MB with all kinds of deferred repairs?

 To be seen in an MB, that's why.

 RLE





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Re: [MBZ] Car comparo

2007-06-28 Thread Robert Rentfro

Clay typed:

I am in Gump because that is all I can afford now the oldest is in 
 private high school.  Tuition is limiting me to taco stand grease for 
 fuel and salvaging parts at the PnP to keep her running.

Ahhh...the things we do for our kids...wifey and I drive 20yr old and 30 yr
old cars respectively on the outside chance the remaining two younguns (Sr 
Jr in HS) might get the school bug.

Bob R
Bubbling Flesh, AZ


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
Allan suggested an old raincoat and shoe goo 

that only works if you're escaping Alcatraz!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
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.
- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I don't believe the diaphrams are available seperately - have always
 replace the assy -

 I guess using an old raincoat and shoe goo probably won't do the job?

 Allan
 -- 
 1983 300D
 1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
Thanks Dan!  Excellent description of how it works!  Would love to see add'l 
info for the W124 --

BTW, when you're looking for leaks, where are you opening the Tee's for 
testing?  At the main junction in the Passenger footwell?  If so,  I guess 
you watch to see which door lock opens/ or closes to determine which is bad 
or good?

I'll bet there are some W126 Owners who would like more info also --
Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 You don't need to tear the doors open unless you find
 a bad actuator in  one.

 The vacuum locking system only appears to be magic;
 it's really quite simple:

 1.) A main valve on the driver's door

 2.) Hoses with a green tracer from there to various
 tees in the system for opening (unlock) vacuum

 3.) Hoses with a red tracer from there to various
 tees in the system for closing (lock) vacuum

 4.) Actuators at each door and trunk lid

 The main junction is under the carpet in the footwell
 of the forward passenger seat.  Separate the
 distribution tee from the supply line and apply vacuum
 to it.  If the system won't hold vacuum, separate the
 lines from the tee and start applying vacuum to each
 one individually.  Make sure the lock or actuator is
 in the right position (unlocked if you're testing the
 locking circuit) so you can see the actuator function.

From here you can narrow it down to a particular door,
 trunk, or gas door actuator.

 I have found in a number of instances where an
 actuator will hold vacuum in one position but not the
 other, as the folds of the diaphragm create enough
 of a seal to prevent a leak.

 Testing and troubleshouting the vacuum system
 shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes if you have
 MityVac or some sort of vacuum source.

 There is some additional magic involving later model
 systems that utilize the electric pump, like the 126
 and 124.  If anyone is interested, I'll amend this
 with the information for those systems.

 Dan

 --- R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My old 115 has intermittent door locks too. I have
 the vacuum pump tester doodad and need to start
 looking as well.
 Sometimes things work reasonably well - especially
 in hot weather, which leads me to believe that the
 rubbery
 connectors are failing. They seal better when warmed
 up?  Often when I stop the car, the doors will all
 lock when I
 lock the driver's door but not always. I have to
 watch to see if the knobs go down and go around
 locking doors if
 they do not. For the longest time, I did not think
 my car had the locking fuel door but then one day it
 worked too.
 I think I need to order a bunch of the connector
 fittings from Rusty and have them available before I
 go digging to
 ensure that I can replace anything that looks or
 acts bad. Anyone have any idea what I should order
 in terms of T
 fittings and or straight fittings - IE - how many
 there may be in the vehicle? Given its age, it
 probably is not a
 bad idea to replace most or all of them. I asked but
 Rusty does not have a sort of sample kit available.
 He just
 sells them individually. I am sort of hoping that I
 do not need to tear the doors open. I have not tried
 removing
 panels from the MB but past experience with removing
 door panels on cars has shown me that it is usually
 difficult
 to do without causing some sort of damage to the
 panel. The clip things are usually stuck pretty good
 after years
 of being there and the panels are usually made of
 thin masonite or something that does not stand up to
 much prying.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
 Jim Cathey
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:32 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


  I have a Mity-Vac somewhere at home -- where do I
 start checking?

 In the trunk.  Lines are accessible at the fuel flap
 lock.  Test
 it, and the trunk actuator.  (The latter is what I
 have found is
 the most likely to break first.)

 Under the carpets are plastic channels with the
 vacuum system
 tees in them.  That's next.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Moving day

2007-06-28 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
I don't know Billy but my brother uses Euro Spec for his 240D and his
400sel.  I walked in one day of the street and asked for the metal washer
for the secondary fuel  filter for the 240D;  they stopped what thy were
doing, and gave me the washer-no charge. I was impressed.  I wish we had a
shop like that here-they sell a few cars from time to time, lot is like a
candy store-do check it out, Glen.  Happy moving.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Trampas
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:12 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Moving day

You need to look up Billy at Euro Spec in Fletcher NC. 

Trampas


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Glenn Brown
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:34 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Moving day

Moving day is tomorrow, so keep the shiny side up guys till I rejoin.

G. M. Brown
to Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] Car titles and liens

2007-06-28 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
The only safe way is to have lender certify to the state that the lien is
satisfied and wait for state to remove lien-can take a few weeks, but
without a clear title, you could be in trouble. 

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of eric peterson
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 8:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car titles and liens

According to seller title is held by the state until
they receive a letter from the lender stating the lien
has been satisfied.  I'm not sure how you transfer a
title with a lien attached as you don't have the
title.  

--- Anthony Galioto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Find out how much and to who the lien holder is. 
 Before you give any money
 you should make sure that you can satisfy the lien
 plus any interest
 thereupon and deduct it from the sales price.  You
 should also be sure
 he/she can transfer title with a lien on the
 vehicle.  The above transaction
 should be done simultaneously.
 Anthony
 
 On 6/27/07, eric peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
 
  I've located a car I want to purchase that is
 1/2way
  across the country.  The car is in good shape and
 the
  price is reasonable, but the seller has a lein
 against
  the car and will not be able to surrender the
 title at
  the time of sale.  Anyone have any ideas on how to
  handle these types of situations.  What should I
 be on
  the lookout for??  I would be paying cash.
 
  Thanks
  Eric
  85 300CD 112K
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



  Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check
 out Yahoo! Autos new Car
  Finder tool.
  http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
 
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 -- 
 Anthony
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Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
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Re: [MBZ] Car comparo

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
I think you will find the vast majority of people have no idea what age 
a MB is.  My '78 240D has all of its parts,  a beautiful paint job which I 
keep clean and waxed and have had several people ask if it's new!   It's 30 
freakin' years old!  Jeez...  Also, I worked with a guy - reasonably 
intelligent but not a car guy.  We were traveling together to an out of 
state engineering office and had to share a rental car with 2 other team 
members when we came across a guy pushing his 240D off the street - my 
co-worker said, Look at that!  An $80,000 car and he can't keep it 
running!

This is a pretty typical comment from someone who doesn;t know one MB 
from another.  They've heard about the SL costing $70k to $100k and that's 
their impression of all MBs

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car comparo


 My reason, for what it is worth, was that I always wanted a diesel and I 
 couldn't really justify the cost of a new
 pickup truck with one and really didn't need a 3/4 ton which is what most 
 are. I considered a Jetta TDI but really
 wanted a car that was a bit bigger. I admit that I like the fact that it 
 is an MB but  I sort of doubt that most
 people are all that impressed with the fact that it is an MB because of 
 its age. It looks quite nice as the paint
 is shiny and it is a real sharp color but it is fairly obviously old.

 Randy (who has 2 boys - one trying to get into graduate school and one 
 about to start college and is lucky to be
 able to sort of afford the old MB)

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Redghost
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:53 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car comparo


 I am in Gump because that is all I can afford now the oldest is in
 private high school.  Tuition is limiting me to taco stand grease for
 fuel and salvaging parts at the PnP to keep her running.

 clay

 On Jun 22, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had to read the other post to put this into context. I thought
 maybe
 you were talking about Porsche or BMW owners, and I know they all
 have short
 dipsticks.

 As a Porsche driver of long standing. I find this kind of comment
 pretty
 stupid and in rebuttal, I would ask why would one drive around in
 an ancient and
 decrepit MB with all kinds of deferred repairs?

 To be seen in an MB, that's why.

 RLE





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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or 
shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would never have 
if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like this once every 
15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!

That's the only way you get good at it -

After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always remember the 
quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a poor job 
full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of those $$s 
you saved. ;-)

I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked terrible and my 
wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living without it.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint


I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros install tint.
 $250--ouch!


 Casey
 __
 '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
 '94 100CSQ Avant
 '90 90Q
 '89 Bluestar
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[MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun

2007-06-28 Thread Frederick Moir
Hi, All.
Wife's 99 Toy is loosing it's cool. Still works but not as cool as it was.
I have RTFM and have all necessary stuff and tools. The Question is this:- if 
some portion of the gas has leaked out, and presumably some of the oil, how do 
you estimate the quantity of oil remaining? Do I use one of those charge cans 
with oil, or will that over oil things?
Hot and sweaty dope wants to know. (correction NEEDS to know!  Wifely comment)
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
190DT
300TD
99 Toyota Crow roller VE,  the cheap one. 

   
-
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. 
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Re: [MBZ] Car comparo

2007-06-28 Thread R A Bennell
You likely get further with a 78 and I do with my 76 however as the newer one 
has rounder lines. My old 115 is
pretty square. That does not bother me however. It is getting to where all of 
the new cars look alike. I'm unique!

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:37 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car comparo


I think you will find the vast majority of people have no idea what age
a MB is.  My '78 240D has all of its parts,  a beautiful paint job which I
keep clean and waxed and have had several people ask if it's new!   It's 30
freakin' years old!  Jeez...  Also, I worked with a guy - reasonably
intelligent but not a car guy.  We were traveling together to an out of
state engineering office and had to share a rental car with 2 other team
members when we came across a guy pushing his 240D off the street - my
co-worker said, Look at that!  An $80,000 car and he can't keep it
running!

This is a pretty typical comment from someone who doesn;t know one MB
from another.  They've heard about the SL costing $70k to $100k and that's
their impression of all MBs

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car comparo


 My reason, for what it is worth, was that I always wanted a diesel and I
 couldn't really justify the cost of a new
 pickup truck with one and really didn't need a 3/4 ton which is what most
 are. I considered a Jetta TDI but really
 wanted a car that was a bit bigger. I admit that I like the fact that it
 is an MB but  I sort of doubt that most
 people are all that impressed with the fact that it is an MB because of
 its age. It looks quite nice as the paint
 is shiny and it is a real sharp color but it is fairly obviously old.

 Randy (who has 2 boys - one trying to get into graduate school and one
 about to start college and is lucky to be
 able to sort of afford the old MB)

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Redghost
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:53 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car comparo


 I am in Gump because that is all I can afford now the oldest is in
 private high school.  Tuition is limiting me to taco stand grease for
 fuel and salvaging parts at the PnP to keep her running.

 clay

 On Jun 22, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had to read the other post to put this into context. I thought
 maybe
 you were talking about Porsche or BMW owners, and I know they all
 have short
 dipsticks.

 As a Porsche driver of long standing. I find this kind of comment
 pretty
 stupid and in rebuttal, I would ask why would one drive around in
 an ancient and
 decrepit MB with all kinds of deferred repairs?

 To be seen in an MB, that's why.

 RLE





 **
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 10:56 AM



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again

2007-06-28 Thread Loren Faeth
Subframe mounts, at least, and maybe/probably the trailing arm bushings too.

At 12:25 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit squatty, and wheels look
like maybe they have some

excess camber?  Or are they supposed to be like that?  Driving the car
on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a tad, I'm wo(a)ndering
if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts needing replacement,
or something else?

--R

84300SD (son's)
79300TD



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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again

2007-06-28 Thread LWB250
Subframe mounts, as others have stated.

This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive job. 
A bit of brute force, but if you plan in advance and
soak everything well with penetrating lube you'll be
fine.

Dan

--- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Subframe mounts, at least, and maybe/probably the
 trailing arm bushings too.
 
 At 12:25 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
 So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit
 squatty, and wheels look
 like maybe they have some
 
 excess camber?  Or are they supposed to be like
 that?  Driving the car
 on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a
 tad, I'm wo(a)ndering
 if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts
 needing replacement,
 or something else?
 
 --R
 
 84300SD (son's)
 79300TD
 
 
 
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 Loren Faeth 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread John Freer
Window tinting in Seattle is like buying a snow blower in SO CA.just in
case I ever need it.

On 6/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or
 shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would never
 have
 if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like this once
 every
 15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!

 That's the only way you get good at it -

 After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always remember
 the
 quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a poor job
 full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of those $$s
 you saved. ;-)

 I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked terrible and my
 wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living without it.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint


 I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros install tint.
  $250--ouch!
 
 
  Casey
  __
  '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
  '94 100CSQ Avant
  '90 90Q
  '89 Bluestar
  ___
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 6/28/2007
  10:56 AM
 
 


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Kevin Kraly
Yes, Dan.  The locks on my '83 300SD have been inoperative since I've owned 
the car.  The pump goes until it times out (30 seconds IIRC), but nothing 
happens other than the fuel door locking (found this out when attempting to 
fuel up and had to open it manually). Luckily enough, I did it quickly 
enough and didn't have the pump attendant waiting around.  Here in OR, we've 
forgotten how to fill our fuel tanks, hahaha.

Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread LarryT
Well, sometimes you might not want to see the rain and fog so clearly?
;-0

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint


 Window tinting in Seattle is like buying a snow blower in SO CA.just 
 in
 case I ever need it.

 On 6/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or
 shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would never
 have
 if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like this once
 every
 15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!

 That's the only way you get good at it -

 After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always remember
 the
 quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a poor job
 full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of those 
 $$s
 you saved. ;-)

 I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked terrible and my
 wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living without 
 it.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint


 I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros install tint.
  $250--ouch!
 
 
  Casey
  __
  '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
  '94 100CSQ Avant
  '90 90Q
  '89 Bluestar
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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  --
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/876 - Release Date:
 6/28/2007
  10:56 AM
 
 


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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/876 - Release Date: 6/28/2007 
 10:56 AM

 


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
The distributor in the drivers door plays up and is very difficult to adjust 
just right. A millimetre the wrong way and it will leak.
What you need to do with the mity vac is to hook it into a line to see if 
that line holds pressure. This requires vaccum hose and a three way T piece.

- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 11:47 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 OK, all of a sudden the central locking on my 300D is not working
 correctly.  I know only enough to know this must mean a vacuum leak
 somewhere.


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Usually if a diaphram is torn then it won't hold any sort of vaccum due to 
the size of the leak.

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 1:59 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 me to believe that the rubbery connectors are failing.

 The _usual_ failure is torn diaphragms rather than failed rubber
 connectors, but both are possible.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
My preferred method is a large screwdriver with the blade against the clip, 
if done right you won't need to buy new clips.

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 2:01 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 I am sort of hoping that I do not need to tear the doors open.

 You can dream!

 experience with removing door panels on cars has shown me that
 it is usually difficult to do without causing some sort of damage

 Not too bad, if you do it right.  A putty knife slipped behind the
 plastic pop connector will usually pry them out without panel damage,
 you don't ever pry against the panel itself.  You may need new clips,
 though.

 -- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
They can be bodgied up with condoms or similar, I used to have a link to a 
site that detailed the procedure, also there is nothing wrong with S/H ones 
if you get em for the right price.

- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 4:12 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I don't believe the diaphrams are available seperately - have always
 replace the assy -

 I guess using an old raincoat and shoe goo probably won't do the job?

 Allan
 -- 

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
I am pretty sure the 124's use a dedicated pump to supply vaccum AND 
pressure for closing/opening (thus only needing one line), as such are very 
different to the 123's. I know my 201 has a pump under the rear seat.
I am not sure what the 126's use but it may well be that they changed half 
way through it's life span.

- Original Message - 
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing


 Thanks Dan!  Excellent description of how it works!  Would love to see 
 add'l
 info for the W124 --

 BTW, when you're looking for leaks, where are you opening the Tee's for
 testing?  At the main junction in the Passenger footwell?  If so,  I guess
 you watch to see which door lock opens/ or closes to determine which is 
 bad
 or good?

 I'll bet there are some W126 Owners who would like more info also --
 Thx -

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)

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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread Loren Faeth
Why would you want to turn a good MB into a ghetto ride?  (my real 
terminology is somewhat different)

Took me hours to scrape of the stupid tint off the back window of 
the TD.  The crap does deteriorate.  Even if it is ok for a year or 3 
after it is put on, it deteriorates and is a holy mess to get off.

At 06:46 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
Window tinting in Seattle is like buying a snow blower in SO CA.just in
case I ever need it.

On 6/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or
  shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would never
  have
  if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like this once
  every
  15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!
 
  That's the only way you get good at it -
 
  After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always remember
  the
  quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a poor job
  full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of those $$s
  you saved. ;-)
 
  I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked terrible and my
  wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living without it.
 
  Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
  www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
  Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
  PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
  Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
  Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
  .
  - Original Message -
  From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint
 
 
  I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros install tint.
   $250--ouch!
  
  
   Casey
   __
   '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
   '94 100CSQ Avant
   '90 90Q
   '89 Bluestar
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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   --
   No virus found in this incoming message.
   Checked by AVG Free Edition.
   Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/876 - Release Date:
  6/28/2007
   10:56 AM
  
  
 
 
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
OK we'll go back one step, in order for an engine to run you need three 
things; fuel/air mixture, compression and spark. This all has to happen at 
the right time obviously.
Right now I am still focusing on fuel because losing compression all of a 
sudden is a rare thing, can happen if the valve timing is off.
Losing ignition timing all of a sudden is also pretty rare, can happen if 
the dizzy came loose.
When you crank it and then remove a plug, do you get a smell of fuel 
happening? If the engine is getting fuel but the timing is off you should be 
able to smell (and perhaps see a wet plug) fuel.
Another possibility is that you have lost your cold start circuit, although 
unless it is really cold the engine will fire without that circuit.
I take it that the car was running fine before it decided to stop playing 
ball?

- Original Message - 
From: Troy Kocher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start


I do have spark I tested the front most plug wire with a screwdriver.  I
 also removed one of the center plugs, left it connected to the plug wire 
 and
 watched it spark. .

 Troy

 On 6/27/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A KE-jet engine will run without a working OVP relay, it will run without
 the injection computer working but will not run without a working 
 ignition
 computer.
 You do have spark?


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Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again

2007-06-28 Thread Rich Thomas
OK, guess that one will be one for a future effort as no time now.

Thanks...

--R

LWB250 wrote:
 Subframe mounts, as others have stated.

 This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive job. 
 A bit of brute force, but if you plan in advance and
 soak everything well with penetrating lube you'll be
 fine.

 Dan

 --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Subframe mounts, at least, and maybe/probably the
 trailing arm bushings too.

 At 12:25 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
 
 So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit
   
 squatty, and wheels look
 
 like maybe they have some

 excess camber?  Or are they supposed to be like
   
 that?  Driving the car
 
 on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a
   
 tad, I'm wo(a)ndering
 
 if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts
   
 needing replacement,
 
 or something else?

 --R

 84300SD (son's)
 79300TD



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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 I am pretty sure the 124's use a dedicated pump to supply vaccum AND
 pressure for closing/opening (thus only needing one line), as such are 
 very
 different to the 123's. I know my 201 has a pump under the rear seat.
 I am not sure what the 126's use but it may well be that they changed 
 half
 way through it's life span.

The 126's used two different electric-pump systems.  The early ones
used a POS pump that is short-lived when compared to the later pumps.
(They're the ones that only operate from the driver's door.)  Everything
newer than the 123 used the single-line pump.  The 107 is rare in that
it was available with both systems, depending on age.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 Usually if a diaphram is torn then it won't hold any sort of vaccum 
 due to
 the size of the leak.

That is contrary to my experience.  Initially the tears are small, and
can close up spontaneously depending on their mood.  But things get
progressively worse rather quickly.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 I have RTFM and have all necessary stuff and tools. The Question is 
 this:- if some portion of the gas has leaked out, and presumably some 
 of the oil, how do you estimate the quantity of oil remaining? Do I 
 use one of those charge cans with oil, or will that over oil things?

Ah, that is the part that's art, innit?  The Yorks had an advantage
there in that they have a crankcase and a dipstick.

I have no practical advice.  I believe I lost my 190D's compressor due
to a lack of oil, however.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 I guess using an old raincoat and shoe goo probably won't do the job?

Shoe Goo, though slightly flexible, is too rigid for this application.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
 OK, if I don't pry against the panel, what do I pry against??

If you've ever seen one of the plastic pop-connectors you'll see
what you pry against.  It's the shoulder of the connector itself.
Think 'nail head'.  You pry out against the shank of the connector,
not the other way.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again

2007-06-28 Thread Loren Faeth
You can patch things along a while by putting some twist-in spring 
spacers for a while.  It will take 2-3 for each spring.  This will 
reduce the tire wear on the inside.

Loren
BTDT

At 08:02 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
OK, guess that one will be one for a future effort as no time now.

Thanks...

--R

LWB250 wrote:
  Subframe mounts, as others have stated.
 
  This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive job.
  A bit of brute force, but if you plan in advance and
  soak everything well with penetrating lube you'll be
  fine.
 
  Dan
 
  --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Subframe mounts, at least, and maybe/probably the
  trailing arm bushings too.
 
  At 12:25 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
 
  So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit
 
  squatty, and wheels look
 
  like maybe they have some
 
  excess camber?  Or are they supposed to be like
 
  that?  Driving the car
 
  on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a
 
  tad, I'm wo(a)ndering
 
  if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts
 
  needing replacement,
 
  or something else?
 
  --R
 
  84300SD (son's)
  79300TD
 
 
 
  ___
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  Loren Faeth
 
 
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 security of spyware protection.
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread ernest breakfield
Loren,

not sure i understand what your issue with tinting is; what about 
tinting makes a car ghetto (or whatever you actually call it)? in places 
where the sun actually shines, it can make a car much more pleasant, and 
even preserve the interior by not allowing interior temps to rise as high.

i wouldn't have my J**p XJ now without tinting, but that's because 
it plays in the Deserts, high-altitudes, and all along the coasts; all 
of which can be sunnier than what i care to expose myself or my vehicle 
interior to...  its tinting has only been there for about 10 years so 
far, but it still looks fine; no indication of any need to redo it yet, 
but that's probably because it was professionally done by a place that 
knew how. granted, it's California Legal (clear front doors and 
windshield) because that's where it's registered, but even that partial 
tinting combined with the roof painted white sure seems to keep it 
cooler inside than before i made those mods.
the tinting in the 300D is a little bit shaggier looking, but it 
came to me that way; that's only because the POs dogs had left scratches 
on it in a couple of places (and i don't know how quality of a job it 
was to begin with). it's a full tint except for the windshield, and also 
one of the only '85s i've seen that doesn't have a single crack in the 
dash or anywhere else in the interior, in spite of the fact that it was 
originally a Southern California car.

on a recent road trip to Eastern Texas and back, i noticed that in 
places where they really know sun, it was hard to find cars that 
*didn't* have tinting... but you know what a ghetto places like 
Scottsdale, Santa Fe, and Palm Springs are.   ;-)


cheers!
e


Loren Faeth wrote:
 Why would you want to turn a good MB into a ghetto ride?  (my real 
 terminology is somewhat different)

 Took me hours to scrape of the stupid tint off the back window of 
 the TD.  The crap does deteriorate.  Even if it is ok for a year or 3 
 after it is put on, it deteriorates and is a holy mess to get off.

 At 06:46 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
   
 Window tinting in Seattle is like buying a snow blower in SO CA.just in
 case I ever need it.

 On 6/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or
 shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would never
 have
 if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like this once
 every
 15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!

 That's the only way you get good at it -

 After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always remember
 the
 quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a poor job
 full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of those $$s
 you saved. ;-)

 I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked terrible and my
 wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living without it.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint


   
 I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros install tint.
 $250--ouch!


 Casey
 __
 '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
 '94 100CSQ Avant
 '90 90Q
 '89 Bluestar
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 --
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/876 - Release Date:
 
 6/28/2007
   
 10:56 AM


 
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 Loren Faeth 


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[MBZ] Paint Color Heat : was Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Hi guys,
Living in the Valley of the Sun, I've got two cars that are tinted  
and that helps while one is driving.  And they are both Smoke Silver  
because I didn't want any dark colored car.

But, does anyone have any information to determine if there is any  
interior temperature differential between similar black and white  
cars sitting for a fixed period of time in the sun.

I've been told anecdotal info that indicates there is NO difference  
at all.

Just an inquiring mind!

Take care and be safe,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ


On Jun 28, 2007, at 6:31 PM, ernest breakfield wrote:

 Loren,

 not sure i understand what your issue with tinting is; what about
 tinting makes a car ghetto (or whatever you actually call it)? in  
 places
 where the sun actually shines, it can make a car much more  
 pleasant, and
 even preserve the interior by not allowing interior temps to rise  
 as high.

 i wouldn't have my J**p XJ now without tinting, but that's because
 it plays in the Deserts, high-altitudes, and all along the coasts; all
 of which can be sunnier than what i care to expose myself or my  
 vehicle
 interior to...  its tinting has only been there for about 10 years so
 far, but it still looks fine; no indication of any need to redo it  
 yet,
 but that's probably because it was professionally done by a place that
 knew how. granted, it's California Legal (clear front doors and
 windshield) because that's where it's registered, but even that  
 partial
 tinting combined with the roof painted white sure seems to keep it
 cooler inside than before i made those mods.
 the tinting in the 300D is a little bit shaggier looking, but it
 came to me that way; that's only because the POs dogs had left  
 scratches
 on it in a couple of places (and i don't know how quality of a job it
 was to begin with). it's a full tint except for the windshield, and  
 also
 one of the only '85s i've seen that doesn't have a single crack in the
 dash or anywhere else in the interior, in spite of the fact that it  
 was
 originally a Southern California car.

 on a recent road trip to Eastern Texas and back, i noticed that in
 places where they really know sun, it was hard to find cars that
 *didn't* have tinting... but you know what a ghetto places like
 Scottsdale, Santa Fe, and Palm Springs are.   ;-)


 cheers!
 e


 Loren Faeth wrote:
 Why would you want to turn a good MB into a ghetto ride?  (my real
 terminology is somewhat different)

 Took me hours to scrape of the stupid tint off the back window of
 the TD.  The crap does deteriorate.  Even if it is ok for a year or 3
 after it is put on, it deteriorates and is a holy mess to get off.

 At 06:46 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:

 Window tinting in Seattle is like buying a snow blower in SO  
 CA.just in
 case I ever need it.

 On 6/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or
 shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would  
 never
 have
 if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like  
 this once
 every
 15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!

 That's the only way you get good at it -

 After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always  
 remember
 the
 quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a  
 poor job
 full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of  
 those $$s
 you saved. ;-)

 I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked  
 terrible and my
 wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living  
 without it.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint



 I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros  
 install tint.
 $250--ouch!


 Casey
 __
 '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
 '94 100CSQ Avant
 '90 90Q
 '89 Bluestar
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http:// 
 www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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 --
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/876 - Release Date:

 6/28/2007

 10:56 AM



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Re: [MBZ] OT - non-Benz Help for friend in Arkansas

2007-06-28 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 11:13:37 -0700 Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Hi all,
 
 A friend of mine lives in Berryville, Arkansas and is having  
 overheating problems in her '96 Mercury Gran Marquis..
 
 Anybody know of an honest shop/mechanic in that area that can help  
 her out???

Sorry, I know of no one.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Mitch Haley


Hendrik Riessen wrote:
 
 My preferred method is a large screwdriver with the blade against the clip,
 if done right you won't need to buy new clips.

I use a Snap-On tool that resembles a forked screwdriver with a bent shaft.
Couldn't find it in the online catalog, but this may be better:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=item_ID=12836group_ID=1796

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Re: [MBZ] MBZ 87 300D Turbo smoke/idle problems.

2007-06-28 Thread John Freer
Dave,
if you have 10 quarts of oil in an 8 quart system, it may cause some smoke.
(grin)

Where does the extra 2 quarts reside in your 603 engine?


On 6/28/07, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I did not run the engine under that condition long enough to notice any
 oil
 consumption. I'm sure it went down some, but with a 10qt reserve, it was
 not
 significant. I also suspect that a little bit of oil makes a whole lotta
 smoke.

 -Dave Walton

 On 6/28/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  dave walton wrote:
   That is similar to what happened when the head gasket blew on my 1994
  S350.
   Except that it happened all at once, got gradually. The failure caused
  oil
   to dump into the #1 cylinder. The cylinder still fired (until oil
  pressure
   built up), and the compression actually went up in that cylinder -
  probably
   because all the oil caused the rings to seal better. There was sooo
 much
   smoke that it appeared more white than grey or black, but smelled like
  motor
   oil. I've since heard this is a common failure for that engine (one of
   many).
 
  But the oil level dropped dramatically. I don't recall that the oil
  level is dropping!
 
  Marshall
  --
  Marshall Booth Ph.D.
  Ass't Prof. (ret.)
  Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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[MBZ] Bosch injector rebuild on 600SEL V12

2007-06-28 Thread James Zavesky

Listers where would I send my Bosch injectors to get rebuilt and calibrated?
Is there any difference in performance or longevity versus new?
Car is a 1992 600SEL V12 with 139900 miles on it. 
Dealership told me that four of the injectors were bad when they tried
putting top end of engine back together.

Thanks

James Zavesky
1991 500SL
1992 600SEL



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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun

2007-06-28 Thread Frederick Moir
Jim, et al.
I was just kicking going down, I'll have to trust to dumb luck and put in oil 
too.
Thanks.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
190DT
300TD
Toy VE

Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Ah, that is the part that's art, innit?  The Yorks had an advantage there in 
that they have a crankcase and a dipstick.I have no practical advice.  I 
believe I lost my 190D's compressor due to a lack of oil, however.
-- Jim


 
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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Mitch Haley


Mitch Haley wrote:
 
 I use a Snap-On tool that resembles a forked screwdriver with a bent shaft.

Found the catalog page. No idea which one fits best, but any of them should
be better than a screwdriver.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=allGroup_ID=1793

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Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing

2007-06-28 Thread Hendrik Riessen
But that is only for GM and Fard vehicles, don't be tight, go and spend a 
few hundred on the MB version:-)

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Central locks failing




 Hendrik Riessen wrote:

 My preferred method is a large screwdriver with the blade against the 
 clip,
 if done right you won't need to buy new clips.

 I use a Snap-On tool that resembles a forked screwdriver with a bent 
 shaft.
 Couldn't find it in the online catalog, but this may be better:
 http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=item_ID=12836group_ID=1796


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Re: [MBZ] Paint Color Heat : was Window Tint

2007-06-28 Thread ernest breakfield
hi Chuck!

i'm sure if they were to sit for long enough there wouldn't be any 
difference, but i can assure you that there is a very real and 
noticeable difference in the black and white painted areas of my J**p... 
i'm betting that after enough hours there would be enough heat energy 
passing through to the interior through the glass that interior temps 
might be equal, but it would appear that having the roof white at least 
slows down the rate at which the vehicle heats up. (ever notice how the 
roofs of school buses, motor homes, and Land Cruisers/Rovers that see 
Dez duty are white?)


cheers!
e


Chuck Landenberger wrote:
 Hi guys,
 Living in the Valley of the Sun, I've got two cars that are tinted  
 and that helps while one is driving.  And they are both Smoke Silver  
 because I didn't want any dark colored car.

 But, does anyone have any information to determine if there is any  
 interior temperature differential between similar black and white  
 cars sitting for a fixed period of time in the sun.

 I've been told anecdotal info that indicates there is NO difference  
 at all.

 Just an inquiring mind!

 Take care and be safe,

 Chuck
 Phoenix AZ


 On Jun 28, 2007, at 6:31 PM, ernest breakfield wrote:

   
 Loren,

 not sure i understand what your issue with tinting is; what about
 tinting makes a car ghetto (or whatever you actually call it)? in  
 places
 where the sun actually shines, it can make a car much more  
 pleasant, and
 even preserve the interior by not allowing interior temps to rise  
 as high.

 i wouldn't have my J**p XJ now without tinting, but that's because
 it plays in the Deserts, high-altitudes, and all along the coasts; all
 of which can be sunnier than what i care to expose myself or my  
 vehicle
 interior to...  its tinting has only been there for about 10 years so
 far, but it still looks fine; no indication of any need to redo it  
 yet,
 but that's probably because it was professionally done by a place that
 knew how. granted, it's California Legal (clear front doors and
 windshield) because that's where it's registered, but even that  
 partial
 tinting combined with the roof painted white sure seems to keep it
 cooler inside than before i made those mods.
 the tinting in the 300D is a little bit shaggier looking, but it
 came to me that way; that's only because the POs dogs had left  
 scratches
 on it in a couple of places (and i don't know how quality of a job it
 was to begin with). it's a full tint except for the windshield, and  
 also
 one of the only '85s i've seen that doesn't have a single crack in the
 dash or anywhere else in the interior, in spite of the fact that it  
 was
 originally a Southern California car.

 on a recent road trip to Eastern Texas and back, i noticed that in
 places where they really know sun, it was hard to find cars that
 *didn't* have tinting... but you know what a ghetto places like
 Scottsdale, Santa Fe, and Palm Springs are.   ;-)


 cheers!
 e


 Loren Faeth wrote:
 
 Why would you want to turn a good MB into a ghetto ride?  (my real
 terminology is somewhat different)

 Took me hours to scrape of the stupid tint off the back window of
 the TD.  The crap does deteriorate.  Even if it is ok for a year or 3
 after it is put on, it deteriorates and is a holy mess to get off.

 At 06:46 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:

   
 Window tinting in Seattle is like buying a snow blower in SO  
 CA.just in
 case I ever need it.

 On 6/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 But you'll be very happy with it.  You will not find any flaws (or
 shouldn't) and will look at it with pride of ownership you would  
 never
 have
 if you tried to do it yourself.  You might do something like  
 this once
 every
 15-20 years while the pro's do 2 or 3 a *day*!!

 That's the only way you get good at it -

 After a while you'll forget about the $250 - but you'll always  
 remember
 the
 quality because it'll be in front of you everyday.  Just like a  
 poor job
 full of wrinkles will be in front of you also - reminding you of  
 those $$s
 you saved. ;-)

 I tried it once myself on a Chev sedan we had - it looked  
 terrible and my
 wife commented on it daily - I ended up removing it and living  
 without it.

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
 .
 - Original Message -
 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 4:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Window Tint



   
 I have an appointment for next Tuesday, to have the pros  
 install tint.
 $250--ouch!


 Casey
 __
 '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
 '94 100CSQ Avant
 '90 90Q
 '89 Bluestar
 

Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start

2007-06-28 Thread Troy Kocher
The only reported issue was once, three weeks ago, when my daughter reported
it wanted to die when she came to a stop, at a traffic light . Later that
evening by the time I got to the car I couldn't reproduce the problem.

Stopped by my mechanic today and described the problem to him and thought I
had flooded it at this point and advised taking out the plugs, getting the
fuel out of they cylinders by cranking till it all is out.  Replacing the
plugs with new ones, Replacing the distributor cap  rotor button.  When I
described the spark I was seeing from the plugs as 'bright white' he thought
that strange as he typically sees a red spark from the plugs.

Haven't tried smelling the plug hole, but when I removed the plug originally
it was pretty dry.  Right now ambient temp here is 90+F  humidity of 80%.


thanks for your continued input. . Hope I don't have to give up and tow it
to the mechanic! :-(

I think I'll try the plugs and rotor next. . seems reasonable. .

Troy Kocher

On 6/28/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 OK we'll go back one step, in order for an engine to run you need three
 things; fuel/air mixture, compression and spark. This all has to happen at
 the right time obviously.
 Right now I am still focusing on fuel because losing compression all of a
 sudden is a rare thing, can happen if the valve timing is off.
 Losing ignition timing all of a sudden is also pretty rare, can happen if
 the dizzy came loose.
 When you crank it and then remove a plug, do you get a smell of fuel
 happening? If the engine is getting fuel but the timing is off you should
 be
 able to smell (and perhaps see a wet plug) fuel.
 Another possibility is that you have lost your cold start circuit,
 although
 unless it is really cold the engine will fire without that circuit.
 I take it that the car was running fine before it decided to stop playing
 ball?

 - Original Message -
 From: Troy Kocher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 10:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 190e 2.6 won't start


 I do have spark I tested the front most plug wire with a screwdriver.  I
  also removed one of the center plugs, left it connected to the plug wire
  and
  watched it spark. .
 
  Troy
 
  On 6/27/07, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  A KE-jet engine will run without a working OVP relay, it will run
 without
  the injection computer working but will not run without a working
  ignition
  computer.
  You do have spark?
 

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD rear camber, again

2007-06-28 Thread Rich Thomas
Interesting.  I do not see any tire wear, I noticed the noticeable 
camber as the car was going down the street.  It just looked a bit too 
much, but maybe I am being too paranoid about it since this is a new 
car.  Put that with what seemed to be a bit of floaty on the highway at 
speed.  Did a pretty good inspection underneath today, everything 
looked good, not that I guess I could see excess camber or bad mounts 
or joints or whatever.

Perhaps I should take some meds -- I have some that came from Scotland 
that might help.

--R

Loren Faeth wrote:
 You can patch things along a while by putting some twist-in spring 
 spacers for a while.  It will take 2-3 for each spring.  This will 
 reduce the tire wear on the inside.

 Loren
 BTDT

 At 08:02 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:
   
 OK, guess that one will be one for a future effort as no time now.

 Thanks...

 --R

 LWB250 wrote:
 
 Subframe mounts, as others have stated.

 This is a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive job.
 A bit of brute force, but if you plan in advance and
 soak everything well with penetrating lube you'll be
 fine.

 Dan

 --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


   
 Subframe mounts, at least, and maybe/probably the
 trailing arm bushings too.

 At 12:25 PM 6/28/2007, you wrote:

 
 So on the new 300SD the rear seem to be a bit

   
 squatty, and wheels look

 
 like maybe they have some

 excess camber?  Or are they supposed to be like

   
 that?  Driving the car

 
 on the highway at 70ish it seems to wander just a

   
 tad, I'm wo(a)ndering

 
 if both might be indicative of rear subframe mounts

   
 needing replacement,

 
 or something else?

 --R

 84300SD (son's)
 79300TD



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Re: [MBZ] Bosch injector rebuild on 600SEL V12

2007-06-28 Thread E M
Hi James, I've cleaned my own injectors on a CIS car, but that's different
than yours.  There are many places that will clean old injectors.  They will
often take a picture of the before and after spray pattern to show you the
difference.  Not sure if there's a difference between new and cleaned.
Maybe at some level, just as rebuild never seems as good and brand new, even
when brought back to factory spec.  Having said that, I've used rebuilt
parts that have outlasted factory new, and I know several friends who had
injectors cleaned with amazing results.  Only injectors I have any personal
experience with are those we had cleaned while we were rebuilding the top
end of a porsche 928 32V, and those on the above mentioned car (911).  With
that car, it made a really big difference, just as it did with mine..  Oh,
the injectors were cleaned just before the 928 rebuild, but that's another
story.Can't remember the price, but I think it was about $20 each.

I think many of the internal parts on those W140 were the same, to save
manufacturing costs, so if they are the same injectors as a V8, places may
even offer an exchange to save you the wait time, as I'm sure there were
many more V8s made.

Good luck.  Once cleaned, buckle up and hold on!!! ;-)

Ed
300E
911SC

On 28/06/07, James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Listers where would I send my Bosch injectors to get rebuilt and
 calibrated?
 Is there any difference in performance or longevity versus new?
 Car is a 1992 600SEL V12 with 139900 miles on it.
 Dealership told me that four of the injectors were bad when they tried
 putting top end of engine back together.

 Thanks

 James Zavesky
 1991 500SL
 1992 600SEL



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Re: [MBZ] Bosch injector rebuild on 600SEL V12

2007-06-28 Thread Tom Hargrave
I used to test the injectors in the 300E's  280E's  280CE I used to
run. Those with bad spray patterns would not straighten out, even with
good injector cleaner. This tells me that the pattern change was due to
wear, not contamination.

I used to clean  re-calibrate my diesel injectors  the process is not
that difficult with the right tools. But even diesel injectors will wear
to the point where the pattern isn't right  it's time to replace parts.


Tom
www.kegkits.com

Original Message
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 06/28/07 10:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bosch injector rebuild on 600SEL V12
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Hi James, I've cleaned my own injectors on a CIS car, but that's
different
than yours.  There are many places that will clean old injectors.  They
will
often take a picture of the before and after spray pattern to show you
the
difference.  Not sure if there's a difference between new and cleaned.
Maybe at some level, just as rebuild never seems as good and brand new,
even
when brought back to factory spec.  Having said that, I've used rebuilt
parts that have outlasted factory new, and I know several friends who
had
injectors cleaned with amazing results.  Only injectors I have any
personal
experience with are those we had cleaned while we were rebuilding the
top
end of a porsche 928 32V, and those on the above mentioned car (911).
With
that car, it made a really big difference, just as it did with mine..
Oh,
the injectors were cleaned just before the 928 rebuild, but that's
another
story.Can't remember the price, but I think it was about $20 each.

I think many of the internal parts on those W140 were the same, to save
manufacturing costs, so if they are the same injectors as a V8, places
may
even offer an exchange to save you the wait time, as I'm sure there were
many more V8s made.

Good luck.  Once cleaned, buckle up and hold on!!! ;-)

Ed
300E
911SC

On 28/06/07, James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Listers where would I send my Bosch injectors to get rebuilt and
 calibrated?
 Is there any difference in performance or longevity versus new?
 Car is a 1992 600SEL V12 with 139900 miles on it.
 Dealership told me that four of the injectors were bad when they tried
 putting top end of engine back together.

 Thanks

 James Zavesky
 1991 500SL
 1992 600SEL



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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun

2007-06-28 Thread OK Don
I'm trying alternating cans of plain with cans with oil - haven't been
doing it long enough for any results yet, other than that I'm still
cool. (So is my wife!).

On 6/28/07, Frederick Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Jim, et al.
 I was just kicking going down, I'll have to trust to dumb luck and put in oil 
 too.
 Thanks.
-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise
of fighting a foreign enemy.
-James Madison
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun

2007-06-28 Thread Frederick Moir
OK Don, et al.
A cool wife is a treasure. As I'm sure she will tell you!
Klatta on!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
German oil burners.

OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm trying alternating cans of plain with 
cans with oil - haven't been
doing it long enough for any results yet, other than that I'm still
cool. (So is my wife!).


   
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Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun/oil?

2007-06-28 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 6/28/2007 3:46:46 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Hi,  All.
Wife's 99 Toy is loosing it's cool. Still works but not as cool as it  was.
I have RTFM and have all necessary stuff and tools. The Question is  this:- 
if some portion of the gas has leaked out, and presumably some of the  oil, how 
do you estimate the quantity of oil remaining? Do I use one of those  charge 
cans with oil, or will that over oil things?
Hot and sweaty dope  wants to know. (correction NEEDS to know!  Wifely 
comment)
Fred  Moir
Lynn MA
190DT
300TD
99 Toyota Crow roller VE,  the cheap  one. 



Fred,
 
A typical auto AC system holds  about 8 ounces of oil and the  compressor 
will probably live with as little as 2 ounces.  The oil becomes  a blend with 
the 
freon and moves through the system as  a fog.  look  for accumulations of 
dirt on your AC piping to get a feel for any oil  loss.  A slight knocking in 
the 
compressor should be clue to shut er  down until oil is added.  
 
Checker currently has the 18 ounce R134 kit from SubZero on sale for  $17.95. 
 It contains two ounces of synthetic oil and some leak  sealer.  Similar 
recharges exist for R12 systems.
 
I would plan to ad 2 ounces of oil with any charge approximating 14-18  
ounces.   That is a 7 to one leak ratio and may well save your  compressor.  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 267 K miles 
98 ML 320, 151 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. A/C Kweshun

2007-06-28 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 6/28/07, Frederick Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi, All.
 Wife's 99 Toy is loosing it's cool. Still works but not as cool as it was.
 I have RTFM and have all necessary stuff and tools. The Question is this:- if 
 some portion of the gas has leaked out, and presumably some of the oil, how 
 do you estimate the quantity of oil remaining? Do I use one of those charge 
 cans with oil, or will that over oil things?


I'd use one of the premeasured R134 recharge cans with oil included,
myself, and hope for the best.  You can even get them with dye
included as well if you suspect a leak and want to track it down the
lazy way.

Alex Chamberlain

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Re: [MBZ] Bosch injector rebuild on 600SEL V12

2007-06-28 Thread E M
I never owned the proper machine to test and clean injectors with electrical
connections.  I would imagine that was a pretty pricey machine, as I know a
special solution was run through them under pressure, not gas and a cleaner,
and you needed the machine to cycle the injector to clean the pintal (sp),
unlike the ones on the CIS which don't really have any moving parts, and
just squirt all the time, hence the name.  I would just take those out, give
them good clean, then hook them up and put them into clean water bottle and
watch the pattern. Have to be very careful tought, you are dealing with raw
fuel and the CIS system can be under 100 psi!!  Most places that you send
out to will take a pic of the spray pattern after clean.  If it still looks
bad, guess a new injector is the next step.

Good look.

Ed

On 29/06/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I used to test the injectors in the 300E's  280E's  280CE I used to
 run. Those with bad spray patterns would not straighten out, even with
 good injector cleaner. This tells me that the pattern change was due to
 wear, not contamination.

 I used to clean  re-calibrate my diesel injectors  the process is not
 that difficult with the right tools. But even diesel injectors will wear
 to the point where the pattern isn't right  it's time to replace parts.


 Tom
 www.kegkits.com

 Original Message
 From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 06/28/07 10:53 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bosch injector rebuild on 600SEL V12
 -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Hi James, I've cleaned my own injectors on a CIS car, but that's
 different
 than yours.  There are many places that will clean old injectors.  They
 will
 often take a picture of the before and after spray pattern to show you
 the
 difference.  Not sure if there's a difference between new and cleaned.
 Maybe at some level, just as rebuild never seems as good and brand new,
 even
 when brought back to factory spec.  Having said that, I've used rebuilt
 parts that have outlasted factory new, and I know several friends who
 had
 injectors cleaned with amazing results.  Only injectors I have any
 personal
 experience with are those we had cleaned while we were rebuilding the
 top
 end of a porsche 928 32V, and those on the above mentioned car (911).
 With
 that car, it made a really big difference, just as it did with mine..
 Oh,
 the injectors were cleaned just before the 928 rebuild, but that's
 another
 story.Can't remember the price, but I think it was about $20 each.

 I think many of the internal parts on those W140 were the same, to save
 manufacturing costs, so if they are the same injectors as a V8, places
 may
 even offer an exchange to save you the wait time, as I'm sure there were
 many more V8s made.

 Good luck.  Once cleaned, buckle up and hold on!!! ;-)

 Ed
 300E
 911SC

 On 28/06/07, James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Listers where would I send my Bosch injectors to get rebuilt and
  calibrated?
  Is there any difference in performance or longevity versus new?
  Car is a 1992 600SEL V12 with 139900 miles on it.
  Dealership told me that four of the injectors were bad when they tried
  putting top end of engine back together.
 
  Thanks
 
  James Zavesky
  1991 500SL
  1992 600SEL
 
 
 
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