Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Fmiser
It seems than at Sun, 19 Aug 2007 11:45:54 +0930, Hendrik wrote:

 Ooooh goody, here come 200 posts about what oil is best for your killing 
 machine, I can hardly wait.
 Don't the National Rambo Association have any forums for this kind of 
 stuff? Do we really have to have 2000+ posts about guns on a Mercedes 
 forum, when MB don't even make firearms?

 ...don't understand that there 
 are people in the world who actually hate guns and find talk about these 
 machines of death offensive.

machines of death.

In the USA, the number of deaths:

44000 due to automobile accidents
29500 due to firearms (including 16,000 _suicides_)

http://stephenrees.wordpress.com/2007/01/03/huge-toll-in-car-fatalities-in-us-goes-unnoticed/

http://library.med.utah.edu/WebPath/TUTORIAL/GUNS/GUNSTAT.html

So are you referring to our cars when you say machines of death?

Maybe you should be.

Way to die, and the number of deaths in 2003 due to each - from:
http://www.nsc.org/lrs/statinfo/odds.htm

All External Causes of Mortality   166,857
Motor-Vehicle Accidents,44,757
Intentional self-harm   31,484
Accidental poisoning by and exposure to noxious substances  19,457
Assault 17,732
Falls   17,229
Firearm (non-suicide)   12,267
Accidental asphyxiations (threats to breathing)  8,885
Complications of medical and surgical care   2,855


Maybe where you are the roads are safer. Or the chance of poison
is less. Or gravity doesn't work so hard so a fall is less
likely.

I see three significant conclusions from this data.
 * The roads are much more dangerous than the guns. 
 * If I choose to defend myself and my family, we are less likely
   to be one of the 17,000.
 * The risk of dieing from assault is less than death by poison 
   and nearly the same as death from a fall - so why worry about
   assault protection.

--Philip, owner of many machines of death - mostly W123s

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Re: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
No we don't, we used too but had a shooting in Pt. Arthur in which a 
nutter got a hold of an unsecured assault rifle and shot 30+ people.
Enter the genius Government and worla, a little old gun buyback scheme 
later and no more guns. Well, criminals still have guns but that is 
different, at least all those dangerous Farmers had to hand in all their 
overpowered, auto and most semi auto weapons. Said genius Government 
also decided to partly fund this $500 million buy back scheme by cutting 
spending in other areas such as mental health. This doesn't make sense 
to me but what would I know, I'm an idiot.
Anyway all the honest gun owners sold their firearms to the Government 
and the rest buried them out the back somewhere. The criminals just 
doubled the price of illegal guns and it seems that is where we are at 
today. It is still possible to have a firearm but it is very difficult 
and it is still possible to buy illegal just about everything. It seems 
that whenever the cops raid the local Biker HQ they find the usual 
handguns, sawn offs, semi autos, a big wad of cash and drugs. Just like 
they used to before the grand buy back scheme.
Heck, these days it is even illegal to carry a knife without lawful excuse.
However in all fairness to the genius Government, we have not had a 
major shooting since, just little ones.
Of course should a foreign nation ever decide to invade Oz we can count 
on our good friends the US of A and their arsenal to protect us.

archer wrote:
 - Original Message - 
 From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
 Ooooh goody, here come 200 posts about what oil is best for your killing 
 machine, I can hardly wait.
 Don't the National Rambo Association have any forums for this kind of 
 stuff? Do we really have to have 2000+ posts about guns on a Mercedes 
 forum, when MB don't even make firearms?
 
 ---
 Don't Australians have guns?
 Gerry

 ___


   

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[MBZ] Using Beer as gun oil, I recommend stout

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
You should move to England the home of Beer porrige, I remember when we 
first landed at Waterloo station we had to have a wee drink to get over 
all the customs BS.
Anyway we find ourself a cosy little pup just around the corner, the 
publican offered a pint of his house speciality. Flat beer, I guess that 
was supposed to be a bit of a joke as Australians are known for their 
over-carbonated beers. My mate couldn't finish his, so I had to polish 
both off.
However things where better in Ireland and their stouts are delicious, 
particularly Murphy's in Cork, best stout ever. However once again my 
mate was in trouble, like they say, when you think that the world is 
falling down around you, have a few stouts and then the world will fall 
out of you.

OK Don wrote:
 Yes - no beer that you can see your fingers on the back side of the
 glass though is worth drinking. You can chew the best ones.
 .
   
 ___
 Anyone disagree with these lists?
 Gerry
 

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Re: [MBZ] OT Honda Timing Belt

2007-08-19 Thread John Freer
Gerry,

Here's something that might be of help. Note the * footnotes.
http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=TBR05.pdffolder=brochure

John

On 8/18/07, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Which Japanese/Korean cars are not valve benders?
 Thanks,
 Gerry
 -
 - Original Message -
 From: John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Manufacturers spend millions of dollars to publish owners manuals. The
  general public (those that can read) are not to blame.
 
  On 8/18/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I will recommend that we get that belt replaced soon.
  This is really interesting to me though, as I wasn't aware, and I
  don't think the general public is aware, that these cars are something
  close to a time bomb in that they are very likely to just go belly up
  at a certain point. All I knew was that these Hondas were very
  reliable and would last a long time. But according to this info., they
  are reliable, with a very severe caveat.
  You would think that it would be better known that these cars will
  just quit at around 100k or whatever the designated mileage is.
  Brian
 
  On 8/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Redghost wrote:
JUST REPLACE IT.  Not worth the $400 to open it up and see if you
 can
squeeze a few thousand more miles out.   I had an acura that said
 to
change the belt at 90k.  It was not joking.  I made it to 91,231
before the belt let loose and I was in it for $2500 to rebuild the
top end.  Valves slapped all over the place.  Should have just gone
in and paid my $400 for the belt right at 90k
  
   I would never let one go more than five years in an interference
   engine.
   Also would not exceed mfr's mileage recommendation. Still no
 guarantee,
   but if you replace the CRV's belt now you will be safe (unless it
   breaks on the way to the shop). A friend lost the belt on her '87
   Escort
   at around 35k in 1988. She was not pleased, but at least it was a
   1.9Lso
   all it cost her was a tow bill and $200. This  car went about 150
 miles
   a day on the freeway, with a 5 speed. She gave it to her little
 brother
   when
   she bought an Escort GT in '89, AFAIK it did not break the belt again
   so
   I'm guessing a defective belt.
   Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
So you are trying to tell me that cars are designed to kill 
intentionally, I suppose you're argument would be that firearms are 
designed only for self defense?
I suppose if you want to split hairs that is your prerogative but my way 
of looking at it that cars are designed to transport people from A to B 
and firearms are designed to fire a bullet at high speed at whatever you 
point them at. What idiots do with either I can't help.
However if you want to dig into stats then go and look at the proportion 
of gun ownership and gun deaths. Apparently the US and Canada have a 
similar percentage of gun ownership but nowhere near the number of 
related gun deaths. Why is this so? I have my theories but this is not a 
gun discussion forum and as such might provoke as much hostility as 
discussing politics or religion.
We are here primarily to discuss automotive things, particularly MB, but 
also talk about other things every now and then.
I have had my knuckles rapped a few times for expressing my political 
views, the basis being that discussion on that subject can lead to 
heated arguments and as such I am happy to not impose my political or 
religious views here. This is called civility, hopefully I am given the 
same treatment when it comes to the subject of firearms.
You just never know, if we really all work hard together then one day we 
can put away these machines of death and focus on the machines of life.

Fmiser wrote:


 machines of death.

 In the USA, the number of deaths:

 44000 due to automobile accidents
 29500 due to firearms (including 16,000 _suicides_)

 http://stephenrees.wordpress.com/2007/01/03/huge-toll-in-car-fatalities-in-us-goes-unnoticed/

 http://library.med.utah.edu/WebPath/TUTORIAL/GUNS/GUNSTAT.html

 So are you referring to our cars when you say machines of death?

 Maybe you should be.

 Way to die, and the number of deaths in 2003 due to each - from:
 http://www.nsc.org/lrs/statinfo/odds.htm

 All External Causes of Mortality   166,857
 Motor-Vehicle Accidents,  44,757
 Intentional self-harm   31,484
 Accidental poisoning by and exposure to noxious substances  19,457
 Assault 17,732
 Falls 17,229
 Firearm (non-suicide) 12,267
 Accidental asphyxiations (threats to breathing)  8,885
 Complications of medical and surgical care   2,855


 Maybe where you are the roads are safer. Or the chance of poison
 is less. Or gravity doesn't work so hard so a fall is less
 likely.

 I see three significant conclusions from this data.
  * The roads are much more dangerous than the guns. 
  * If I choose to defend myself and my family, we are less likely
to be one of the 17,000.
  * The risk of dieing from assault is less than death by poison 
and nearly the same as death from a fall - so why worry about
assault protection.

 --Philip, owner of many machines of death - mostly W123s


   

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[MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290151352486ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1
This person should be sued for a number of reasons but unfortunately bad 
taste is not possible. I wonder how Daimler feel about this?
Although I do have secret fantasies about putting a Toyota front on my 
Mercs :-[

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Re: [MBZ] Handguns and the law

2007-08-19 Thread mykd1
Consider the history of the 1911 .45 and its flawless performance in the 
military and there isn't much out there that can compete. I managed to get my 
hands on a postwar 1911 and I have to admit there is no question why it was so 
popular. As a happy medium though I prefer my .40 Sig as a home defense weapon 
simply because its easier to shoot and just as effective.


Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:26 am
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Handguns and the law



i'm a .45 acp lover myself, but this mystique of the miraculously
devastating .45 is all nonsense.  the traditional 230 grain subsonic .45 is
a nice effective round, but it really won't knock an elephant 9 feet up into
the air.  and if you shoot someone in the finger with one and he falls down,
it's probably because he's seen in the movies and thinks that's what you do
when shot.  and a modern, high pressure 9mm will kill a guy just as well.

i personally like big bore guns (ask some of the kids about my .454), but
carry a .380 in real life as the bigger guns just make my pants fall down at
inopportune moments.

On 8/17/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 When I was being trained for familiarization with the Government .45, our
 instructor told us If you shoot someone with this pistol and hit him in
 the
 finger, it is going to knock him down.

 He also disproved the canard that the pistol is more dangerous to an
 adversary if you throw it than if you shoot it.  The man could powder
 small rocks 50 yards away.  My class learned to shoot pretty well if I
 remember correctly.

 Before the Brady Law went into effect, I felt a strange need to own a
 pistol
 the feds wouldn't know about.  I was undecided between a Government .45
 automatic, which I thought I knew about, and a .357 Magnum revolver.

 A gun store guy explained the difference thus:  Suppose you were shooting
 it out with someone taking cover behind the corner of a brick building.
 The
 .357 Magnum will shoot through the builidng.  The Government .45 will
 knock the building down.

 The 9 mm has low recoil, but it is nowhere near as powerful as either the
 Government .45 or the .357 Magnum.

 For maximum power and recoil, try a Ruger .44 Magnum, but that is another
 story.


 Message: 5
 Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 07:26:02 -0500
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

 Bill,

 If all you are interested in is sport then you really need to consider a
 Ruger MKIII. They are wonderful shooting weapons, accurate  reasonably
 cheap to feed because they shoot 22LR cartridges.

 If you have any ideas for home defense then consider a 45ACP from one of
 several manufactures. The bullet is huge (0.45 diameter) and slow and
 will
 stop your intruder. You don't want to kill him, just stop him - RIGHT NOW.
 And if he dies from the results of his own actions, then.

 Why not a 9mm that's so popular these days? Because a 9mm will not stop a
 drug crazed invader unless you hit a vital spot  in home defense, you
 don't
 have time to aim. You only have time to point  squeeze.





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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Not quite as tacky as the old Rolls Royce looking front end on the 
Beatle trick, but tacky none the less .

-Robert

Hendrik wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290151352486ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1
 This person should be sued for a number of reasons but unfortunately bad 
 taste is not possible. I wonder how Daimler feel about this?
 Although I do have secret fantasies about putting a Toyota front on my 
 Mercs :-[

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Re: [MBZ] Pinto Deja Vu

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
Living in Florida you get to see a lot of old cars
still on the road.  For example, I saw a Vega wagon
the other day on the way to work.  Think about how
many of those are now working as fence posts after
having been melted down for scrap.  There is a Pacer I
see regularly at the grocer's, too.

I have to admit that I sort of liked the Pacer wagons.
 They were kind of retro cool, IMHO.

Dan


--- Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 There's a gawdawful pumpkin orange one here, sitting
 on a parking lot
 with a for sale sign in the window.  Not a wagon
 though, a hatchback.
 
 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Here I go mentioning a Pinto Wagon in one of my
 posts this week. And
  then today, I drive over to Walley World and park
 beside one. There
  really is one left and someone is actually driving
 it!
 
  Maybe I should mention a Ferrari
 Testerossa.
 
 -- 
 1983 300D
 1966 230
 
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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
Having lived in the Midwest, San Francisco and now
Florida, I can say without question that the Midwest
was (is) best.  Florida, at least the part of Florida
I live in, is nothing short of Hell on Earth populated
by idiots.

Dan


--- Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Iowa is a very nice place to live.
 
 I grew up in WV, went to college in SC, and have
 lived since then in NC, VA,
 NC again, MA, FL, NYC, VA/DC, and FL once again.
 Iowa is definitely the
 nicest place I've had the opportunity to call home.
 



   

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Re: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread archer
 No we don't, we used too but had a shooting in Pt. Arthur in which a
 nutter got a hold of an unsecured assault rifle and shot 30+ people.
 Enter the genius Government and worla, a little old gun buyback scheme
 later and no more guns. Well, criminals still have guns but that is
 different, at least all those dangerous Farmers had to hand in all their
 overpowered, auto and most semi auto weapons. Said genius Government
 also decided to partly fund this $500 million buy back scheme by cutting
 spending in other areas such as mental health. This doesn't make sense
 to me but what would I know, I'm an idiot.
 Anyway all the honest gun owners sold their firearms to the Government
 and the rest buried them out the back somewhere. The criminals just
 doubled the price of illegal guns and it seems that is where we are at
 today. It is still possible to have a firearm but it is very difficult
 and it is still possible to buy illegal just about everything. It seems
 that whenever the cops raid the local Biker HQ they find the usual
 handguns, sawn offs, semi autos, a big wad of cash and drugs. Just like
 they used to before the grand buy back scheme.
 Heck, these days it is even illegal to carry a knife without lawful 
 excuse.
 However in all fairness to the genius Government, we have not had a
 major shooting since, just little ones.
 Of course should a foreign nation ever decide to invade Oz we can count
 on our good friends the US of A and their arsenal to protect us.
--
You Aussies did a pretty good job of protecting yourselves, and indirectly, 
us in WW-2.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread archer
Little girl in Atlanta slid on wet pavement and squished the back end of my 
'67 200D.  Body shop couldn't fix it and couldn't find a used back end. 
Bodyman took a bunch of measurements, took me out behind the shop, and 
showed me the back end of a car which he said could be welded on the 200D 
and would look real nice.  I've forgotten which make it was.

I would have let him do it except for my wife who was a real MB addict.  She 
would get almost physically ill when the least little thing went wrong with 
her 240D.  She might have divorced me when she saw what I had done to the 
200D.

I drilled some drain holes in the trunk floor and chained down the trunk 
lid.  Drove it that way until it was sold.  It would have been a fun car to 
drive; MB comin' and XXcar goin'.
Gerry
---
- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks


 Yeah but the RR grille on the VW is so over the top that in a way it is
 cool.
 Seriously though I do wonder whether there is a copyright infringment by
 placing an auto makers symbol on another car, I am pretty sure that the
 VW jobby did not have the RR symbol or the lady on the rad but I could
 be wrong. Alas even I can be wrong now and again and I have Roger just
 waiting to pounce when I am :-)
 Anyway I've got to leave bandwidth space for all the gun talk so should
 really stop going off topic with stuff like this.
 Harry is busy expressing his love for the Colt 1911, although even I
 must admit the M1911 is a good combat weapon.

 Robert  Tara Ludwick wrote:
 Not quite as tacky as the old Rolls Royce looking front end on the
 Beatle trick, but tacky none the less .

 -Robert 


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Re: [MBZ] OT Honda Timing Belt

2007-08-19 Thread archer
 Gerry,
 Here's something that might be of help. Note the * footnotes.
 http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=TBR05.pdffolder=brochure
 John
---
Thanks, John.  Gates.com would come up but not the above URL.  Their server 
that handles this may be down for service, this being Sunday morning. I did 
a search and came up with this:

Regular belt replacement is especially important on Acura and Honda engines 
because almost every one of these engines is an interference design! The 
only exceptions are the 3.2L V6 in the 1998 and newer Acura SLX models, and 
the 3.2L V6 in 1994 and up Passports. With Toyota, there is less risk of 
additional engine damage because the only Toyota interference engines are 
the older 1.5L Tercel, 2.4L Pickup and 1.8L Camry and Corolla engines. 
Apparently, Toyota engineers were more generous with combustion chamber 
clearances than Honda engineers.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us70343.htm

- 
 On 8/18/07, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Which Japanese/Korean cars are not valve benders?
 Thanks,
 Gerry
 - 


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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread archer
Example of idiots?  Florida in general has often been called a human jungle. 
Iowa and Washington/Oregon are my favorite states as well as central coastal 
California.
Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Having lived in the Midwest, San Francisco and now
 Florida, I can say without question that the Midwest
 was (is) best.  Florida, at least the part of Florida
 I live in, is nothing short of Hell on Earth populated
 by idiots.
 Dan

 --- Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Iowa is a very nice place to live.
 I grew up in WV, went to college in SC, and have
 lived since then in NC, VA,
 NC again, MA, FL, NYC, VA/DC, and FL once again.
 Iowa is definitely the
 nicest place I've had the opportunity to call home.


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[MBZ] CarChip E/X,Blackbox for your car

2007-08-19 Thread Rich Thomas
This thing appears to be a data logger that plugs into your OBDII (if 
you have one) that lets you record and analyze whatever is going on in 
your car from whatever parameters you can capture from the computer.   
Would be easier maybe than fooling around with a GPS, and give you more 
info too.  $160

Just don't let BigBro (or your kids) know you have it.

--R

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000999.php
With the CarChip E/X plugged into your car, it records up to 300 hours 
of your driving data. In other words the CarChip acts like a car 
blackbox. Every trip you make is recorded. The information it records 
includes: time and date for each trip, distance, speed, hard 
accelerations and braking, and engine diagnostic trouble codes. In 
addition, you can pick four other parameters to record ranging from RPM, 
engine coolant temperature, throttle position, fuel pressure, battery 
voltage, etc. Using the included software, you can then graph out the 
data to show you how your vehicle is performing.



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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
A friend of mine was rear-ended years ago in his 74 Caddy. He had the rear
sheet metal welded on from a 1959, the one with the very tall tail fins. The
body shop actually did a respectable job and it actually looked good for a
59/74 (or 74/59, depending if you were coming or going) Fleetwood Cadillac.

I wanted to chop the middle out of a Dodge mini-van and make it into a
micro-mini-van. I figured I could remove the entire center section including
the side door. Then I could install chrome rims, wide tires, loud stereo 
cruise the streets playing Barry Manilow and John Denver.

Wife nix'd that one.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 6:45 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

Little girl in Atlanta slid on wet pavement and squished the back end of my 
'67 200D.  Body shop couldn't fix it and couldn't find a used back end. 
Bodyman took a bunch of measurements, took me out behind the shop, and 
showed me the back end of a car which he said could be welded on the 200D 
and would look real nice.  I've forgotten which make it was.

I would have let him do it except for my wife who was a real MB addict.  She

would get almost physically ill when the least little thing went wrong with 
her 240D.  She might have divorced me when she saw what I had done to the 
200D.

I drilled some drain holes in the trunk floor and chained down the trunk 
lid.  Drove it that way until it was sold.  It would have been a fun car to 
drive; MB comin' and XXcar goin'.
Gerry
---
- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks


 Yeah but the RR grille on the VW is so over the top that in a way it is
 cool.
 Seriously though I do wonder whether there is a copyright infringment by
 placing an auto makers symbol on another car, I am pretty sure that the
 VW jobby did not have the RR symbol or the lady on the rad but I could
 be wrong. Alas even I can be wrong now and again and I have Roger just
 waiting to pounce when I am :-)
 Anyway I've got to leave bandwidth space for all the gun talk so should
 really stop going off topic with stuff like this.
 Harry is busy expressing his love for the Colt 1911, although even I
 must admit the M1911 is a good combat weapon.

 Robert  Tara Ludwick wrote:
 Not quite as tacky as the old Rolls Royce looking front end on the
 Beatle trick, but tacky none the less .

 -Robert 


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Re: [MBZ] [ SPAM ] Re: tick, tick, tick, very fast under the hood?

2007-08-19 Thread Harry Watkins
Thanks Marshall, I'll unplug it and hope it resets itself.

Harry


On 8/18/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Harry Watkins wrote:
  Rob (welcome to the list) is trying to rob my thread (grin).  My tick,
 tick
  is under the hood, not under the dash.  It starts when the key is turned
 on
  and I guess it ticks all the time.  What is the function of the unit
 just
  rear of the IP on a 603?
 
  Looking for help.

 Sounds like the cruise control actuator going CRAZY. I expect that is
 possible if the feedback loop becomes intermittent or opens. Try
 unplugging it.

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread archer
 Tom Hargrave wrote:
A friend of mine was rear-ended years ago in his 74 Caddy. He had the rear
 sheet metal welded on from a 1959, the one with the very tall tail fins. 
 The
 body shop actually did a respectable job and it actually looked good for a
 59/74 (or 74/59, depending if you were coming or going) Fleetwood 
 Cadillac.
-
ROFL!  Would have loved to have seen that.
-
 I wanted to chop the middle out of a Dodge mini-van and make it into a
 micro-mini-van. I figured I could remove the entire center section 
 including
 the side door. Then I could install chrome rims, wide tires, loud stereo 
 cruise the streets playing Barry Manilow and John Denver.
 Wife nix'd that one.
--
If you would have cut it just in front of the back wheels and just behind 
the drivers seat, that would have been a very unique car; might have won 
some prizes in California.  Probably would have looked something like a 
1920s-30s Austin my brother-in-law owned.  There was just enough room behind 
the front seats for two of us little kids to sit facing each other up 
against the back of the car.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
That was the plan, maybe I'll still do it.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of archer
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 9:59 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

 Tom Hargrave wrote:
A friend of mine was rear-ended years ago in his 74 Caddy. He had the rear
 sheet metal welded on from a 1959, the one with the very tall tail fins. 
 The
 body shop actually did a respectable job and it actually looked good for a
 59/74 (or 74/59, depending if you were coming or going) Fleetwood 
 Cadillac.
-
ROFL!  Would have loved to have seen that.
-
 I wanted to chop the middle out of a Dodge mini-van and make it into a
 micro-mini-van. I figured I could remove the entire center section 
 including
 the side door. Then I could install chrome rims, wide tires, loud stereo 
 cruise the streets playing Barry Manilow and John Denver.
 Wife nix'd that one.
--
If you would have cut it just in front of the back wheels and just behind 
the drivers seat, that would have been a very unique car; might have won 
some prizes in California.  Probably would have looked something like a 
1920s-30s Austin my brother-in-law owned.  There was just enough room behind

the front seats for two of us little kids to sit facing each other up 
against the back of the car.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT Honda Timing Belt

2007-08-19 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 8/19/07, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Regular belt replacement is especially important on Acura and Honda engines
 because almost every one of these engines is an interference design! The
 only exceptions are the 3.2L V6 in the 1998 and newer Acura SLX models, and
 the 3.2L V6 in 1994 and up Passports.

Actually an Isuzu engine... that's why.

Alex Chamberlain

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Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Hurst
us spec airbags are designed to kill.  my 10 year old wants to know why her
government wants her dead.  i told her it isn't personally as they want us
all to fear death from them another means of control.

On 8/19/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So you are trying to tell me that cars are designed to kill
 intentionally, I suppose you're argument would be that firearms are
 designed only for self defense?
 I suppose if you want to split hairs that is your prerogative but my way
 of looking at it that cars are designed to transport people from A to B
 and firearms are designed to fire a bullet at high speed at whatever you
 point them at. What idiots do with either I can't help.
 However if you want to dig into stats then go and look at the proportion
 of gun ownership and gun deaths. Apparently the US and Canada have a
 similar percentage of gun ownership but nowhere near the number of
 related gun deaths. Why is this so? I have my theories but this is not a
 gun discussion forum and as such might provoke as much hostility as
 discussing politics or religion.
 We are here primarily to discuss automotive things, particularly MB, but
 also talk about other things every now and then.
 I have had my knuckles rapped a few times for expressing my political
 views, the basis being that discussion on that subject can lead to
 heated arguments and as such I am happy to not impose my political or
 religious views here. This is called civility, hopefully I am given the
 same treatment when it comes to the subject of firearms.
 You just never know, if we really all work hard together then one day we
 can put away these machines of death and focus on the machines of life.

 Fmiser wrote:
 
 
  machines of death.
 
  In the USA, the number of deaths:
 
  44000 due to automobile accidents
  29500 due to firearms (including 16,000 _suicides_)
 
 
 http://stephenrees.wordpress.com/2007/01/03/huge-toll-in-car-fatalities-in-us-goes-unnoticed/
 
  http://library.med.utah.edu/WebPath/TUTORIAL/GUNS/GUNSTAT.html
 
  So are you referring to our cars when you say machines of death?
 
  Maybe you should be.
 
  Way to die, and the number of deaths in 2003 due to each - from:
  http://www.nsc.org/lrs/statinfo/odds.htm
 
  All External Causes of Mortality   166,857
  Motor-Vehicle Accidents,  44,757
  Intentional self-harm   31,484
  Accidental poisoning by and exposure to noxious substances  19,457
  Assault 17,732
  Falls 17,229
  Firearm (non-suicide) 12,267
  Accidental asphyxiations (threats to breathing)  8,885
  Complications of medical and surgical care   2,855
 
 
  Maybe where you are the roads are safer. Or the chance of poison
  is less. Or gravity doesn't work so hard so a fall is less
  likely.
 
  I see three significant conclusions from this data.
   * The roads are much more dangerous than the guns.
   * If I choose to defend myself and my family, we are less likely
 to be one of the 17,000.
   * The risk of dieing from assault is less than death by poison
 and nearly the same as death from a fall - so why worry about
 assault protection.
 
  --Philip, owner of many machines of death - mostly W123s
 
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
Oy gevalt!  You can't imagine the idiots, although
many of them are from out of state...

Haven't lived in Iowa, but did some work in Des Moines
and northern Iowa (for Winnebago in Mason City.) 
Washington and Oregon are nice in the summer, but I'm
not sure i could put up with the cloud cover from
October to April.  I did a lot of work in Portland and
Seattle, and in the summer when the weather was clear
they were truly beautiful places to be.  I liked
Portland the best.  In the winter - yuck!

I would love to live in San Luis Obispo.  That,
outside of the Sierra foothills around Auburn, CA, is
one of the most beautiful places in the Lower 48 that
isn't a national park.  I was there a number of times
to do some hush-hush work on OTHB radar sites in the
mountains above Atascadero.  From some of the sites
you could see well out into the Pacific in one
direction, and in the other, all the way to the
Sierras.

sigh

Dan


--- archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Example of idiots?  Florida in general has often
 been called a human jungle. 
 Iowa and Washington/Oregon are my favorite states as
 well as central coastal 
 California.
 Gerry



   

Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's 
Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. 
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222

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Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
Gary - are you going to cover her therapy costs when
she get older?

Or just supply her with foil helmets?

grin

MacDan



--- Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 us spec airbags are designed to kill.  my 10 year
 old wants to know why her
 government wants her dead.  i told her it isn't
 personally as they want us
 all to fear death from them another means of
 control.
 



   

Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for 
today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow  

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Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
Actually, none of these items are designed to kill including firearms,
airbags, cars, etc.

And to get down to just firearms - they are design to launch a projectile,
very fast  very accurately. It's people who choose to use them to kill.

I personally have had many hours of fun on a shooting range. And never once
was a thought made towards killing someone or something. We just practiced
our sport (yes, anti-gun activists, shooting a handgun is a sport) and we
had an all around good time. When we were done, we packed everything safely
away in their cases, took the weapons home  then carefully cleaned them 
put them away. I see no difference between shooting a hand gun responsibly
and any other sport. 

Now, could these weapons kill? Not by themselves. A PERSON could point my
Ruger Blackhawk at you  pull the trigger  put an entrance wound in you the
size of a quarter  an exit would the size of a small plate  you would be
dead in a matter of seconds. But the PERSON killed you, not the handgun. He
could have used an axe, a car, a knife, a bow  arrow, a fishing rod (yes,
even a fishing rod - it might take a while) or Tie Kwon Do (which I study)
to the same effect.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 11:08 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

us spec airbags are designed to kill.  my 10 year old wants to know why her
government wants her dead.  i told her it isn't personally as they want us
all to fear death from them another means of control.

On 8/19/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So you are trying to tell me that cars are designed to kill
 intentionally, I suppose you're argument would be that firearms are
 designed only for self defense?
 I suppose if you want to split hairs that is your prerogative but my way
 of looking at it that cars are designed to transport people from A to B
 and firearms are designed to fire a bullet at high speed at whatever you
 point them at. What idiots do with either I can't help.
 However if you want to dig into stats then go and look at the proportion
 of gun ownership and gun deaths. Apparently the US and Canada have a
 similar percentage of gun ownership but nowhere near the number of
 related gun deaths. Why is this so? I have my theories but this is not a
 gun discussion forum and as such might provoke as much hostility as
 discussing politics or religion.
 We are here primarily to discuss automotive things, particularly MB, but
 also talk about other things every now and then.
 I have had my knuckles rapped a few times for expressing my political
 views, the basis being that discussion on that subject can lead to
 heated arguments and as such I am happy to not impose my political or
 religious views here. This is called civility, hopefully I am given the
 same treatment when it comes to the subject of firearms.
 You just never know, if we really all work hard together then one day we
 can put away these machines of death and focus on the machines of life.

 Fmiser wrote:
 
 
  machines of death.
 
  In the USA, the number of deaths:
 
  44000 due to automobile accidents
  29500 due to firearms (including 16,000 _suicides_)
 
 

http://stephenrees.wordpress.com/2007/01/03/huge-toll-in-car-fatalities-in-u
s-goes-unnoticed/
 
  http://library.med.utah.edu/WebPath/TUTORIAL/GUNS/GUNSTAT.html
 
  So are you referring to our cars when you say machines of death?
 
  Maybe you should be.
 
  Way to die, and the number of deaths in 2003 due to each - from:
  http://www.nsc.org/lrs/statinfo/odds.htm
 
  All External Causes of Mortality   166,857
  Motor-Vehicle Accidents,  44,757
  Intentional self-harm   31,484
  Accidental poisoning by and exposure to noxious substances  19,457
  Assault 17,732
  Falls 17,229
  Firearm (non-suicide) 12,267
  Accidental asphyxiations (threats to breathing)  8,885
  Complications of medical and surgical care   2,855
 
 
  Maybe where you are the roads are safer. Or the chance of poison
  is less. Or gravity doesn't work so hard so a fall is less
  likely.
 
  I see three significant conclusions from this data.
   * The roads are much more dangerous than the guns.
   * If I choose to defend myself and my family, we are less likely
 to be one of the 17,000.
   * The risk of dieing from assault is less than death by poison
 and nearly the same as death from a fall - so why worry about
 assault protection.
 
  --Philip, owner of many machines of death - mostly W123s
 
 
 

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see 

Re: [MBZ] Death sats - was: Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Hurst
yeah, it's funny dan when your government wants to kill women and children
for absolutely no reason beyond because they can . just makes me proud to be
an american.  i understand killing iraqi children because, y'know, they are
just effin towel heads anyway so why not let our boys have a fun outlet for
their sadistic tendencies, but they go too far in their desire to murder
their own children.

On 8/19/07, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Gary - are you going to cover her therapy costs when
 she get older?

 Or just supply her with foil helmets?

 grin

 MacDan



 --- Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  us spec airbags are designed to kill.  my 10 year
  old wants to know why her
  government wants her dead.  i told her it isn't
  personally as they want us
  all to fear death from them another means of
  control.
 





 
 Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated
 for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
 http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow

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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread Rich Thomas
I saw one of those last week in KY when I was visiting my dad.  I don't 
think it was a runner, but someone had taken out the center section of 
some sort of little van (not a full size, like one of those tiny jap 
delivery vans).  Thing had about a 5 ft wheelbase if that.  Looked kinda 
funny, they use it for a billboard in front of their business.  I 
shoulda snapped a pic of it.

--R

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I wanted to chop the middle out of a Dodge mini-van and make it into a
 micro-mini-van. I figured I could remove the entire center section including
 the side door. Then I could install chrome rims, wide tires, loud stereo 
 cruise the streets playing Barry Manilow and John Denver.

 Wife nix'd that one.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
  
   



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Re: [MBZ] Using Beer as gun oil, I recommend stout

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Hurst
is it good for lubing tinfoil helmets?

On 8/19/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You should move to England the home of Beer porrige, I remember when we
 first landed at Waterloo station we had to have a wee drink to get over
 all the customs BS.
 Anyway we find ourself a cosy little pup just around the corner, the
 publican offered a pint of his house speciality. Flat beer, I guess that
 was supposed to be a bit of a joke as Australians are known for their
 over-carbonated beers. My mate couldn't finish his, so I had to polish
 both off.
 However things where better in Ireland and their stouts are delicious,
 particularly Murphy's in Cork, best stout ever. However once again my
 mate was in trouble, like they say, when you think that the world is
 falling down around you, have a few stouts and then the world will fall
 out of you.

 OK Don wrote:
  Yes - no beer that you can see your fingers on the back side of the
  glass though is worth drinking. You can chew the best ones.
  .
 
  ___
  Anyone disagree with these lists?
  Gerry
 

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Re: [MBZ] Using Beer as gun oil, I recommend stout

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
Only if you hammer the tinfoil out from spent rounds that were originally
cast in Ireland  shot at someone by the IRA.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 11:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Using Beer as gun oil, I recommend stout

is it good for lubing tinfoil helmets?

On 8/19/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You should move to England the home of Beer porrige, I remember when we
 first landed at Waterloo station we had to have a wee drink to get over
 all the customs BS.
 Anyway we find ourself a cosy little pup just around the corner, the
 publican offered a pint of his house speciality. Flat beer, I guess that
 was supposed to be a bit of a joke as Australians are known for their
 over-carbonated beers. My mate couldn't finish his, so I had to polish
 both off.
 However things where better in Ireland and their stouts are delicious,
 particularly Murphy's in Cork, best stout ever. However once again my
 mate was in trouble, like they say, when you think that the world is
 falling down around you, have a few stouts and then the world will fall
 out of you.

 OK Don wrote:
  Yes - no beer that you can see your fingers on the back side of the
  glass though is worth drinking. You can chew the best ones.
  .
 
  ___
  Anyone disagree with these lists?
  Gerry
 

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Re: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread E M
I think most companies that were able, made some supplies for the war.  Many
made the .45, including Singer, the sewing machine company.  I also helped
work on restoring a plane that had V12 Merlins made by Maytag, the washing
machine company. hee hee.  I think Packard made them too, and the word was,
the Packards were better.

I would like to add one quick word on guns.  Up here in the north, we are
not allowed to keep guns for home or personal defence.  However, most ppl
here that do belong to handgun clubs, you will find in general have an
interest in mechanical things, and it's not unusual to talk to those in
clubs and they also have an interest in other mechanical things.  Another
very commom interest for those into handguns here are cameras, the older pre
digital ones.  I have always enjoyed guns for their craftsmanship and fine
mechanical engineering.  It is amazing to think that a gun, will shoot
thousands of rounds, under huge pressures, and will do so for decades, with
very very few failures.  Ofcourse, this is very different to the discussion
on weapons for self and home defence, of which I also have opinions, but I'm
sure no one really cares about one way or the other. :-)

Ed
300E

On 18/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I believe that if you do your research that you will find that Mercedes
 did make fire arms during WW2.

 Thanks, Tom
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: 8/18/07 9:18 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

 Ooooh goody, here come 200 posts about what oil is best for your killing

 machine, I can hardly wait.
 Don't the National Rambo Association have any forums for this kind of
 stuff? Do we really have to have 2000+ posts about guns on a Mercedes
 forum, when MB don't even make firearms?
 I don't mind the odd off topic discussion but as always when the chatter

 comes around to guns in goes on and on and on and it is always the same
 discussion, just a different way around.
 I do not make a habit of jumping on people if posts are off topic but
 enough is enough. I know those of you who have a 44 lying next to the
 keyboard, in case someone invades your home, don't understand that there

 are people in the world who actually hate guns and find talk about these

 machines of death offensive. Yeah I spose you do know that and are just
 waiting your chance to cull the herd to make it stronger but hate breeds

 hate.
 I wouldn't mind a discussion of why the US has this culture of violence
 but that might not be what people want to get into and this may not be
 the place for that.

 Rich Thomas wrote:
  What kind of oil do you use on your, wait, make that, in your, uh,
  car!!?  Yeah, that's the ticket!
 
  --Rr
 
  Wonko the Sane wrote:
 
  I was trying to start a new oil thread so we could talk about
 something
  other than guns and penis size.
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Hurst
watch guys, car guys, camera guys -- tons of overlap.  watch guys and pen
guys for reasons i can't fathom.  watch guys tend to be car guys.   gun
guys  might be more a political statement than  linking o the rest, at least
it is with me.

On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I think most companies that were able, made some supplies for the
 war.  Many
 made the .45, including Singer, the sewing machine company.  I also helped
 work on restoring a plane that had V12 Merlins made by Maytag, the washing
 machine company. hee hee.  I think Packard made them too, and the word
 was,
 the Packards were better.

 I would like to add one quick word on guns.  Up here in the north, we are
 not allowed to keep guns for home or personal defence.  However, most ppl
 here that do belong to handgun clubs, you will find in general have an
 interest in mechanical things, and it's not unusual to talk to those in
 clubs and they also have an interest in other mechanical things.  Another
 very commom interest for those into handguns here are cameras, the older
 pre
 digital ones.  I have always enjoyed guns for their craftsmanship and fine
 mechanical engineering.  It is amazing to think that a gun, will shoot
 thousands of rounds, under huge pressures, and will do so for decades,
 with
 very very few failures.  Ofcourse, this is very different to the
 discussion
 on weapons for self and home defence, of which I also have opinions, but
 I'm
 sure no one really cares about one way or the other. :-)

 Ed
 300E

 On 18/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  I believe that if you do your research that you will find that Mercedes
  did make fire arms during WW2.
 
  Thanks, Tom
  256-656-1924
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: 8/18/07 9:18 PM
  Subject: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil
 
  Ooooh goody, here come 200 posts about what oil is best for your killing
 
  machine, I can hardly wait.
  Don't the National Rambo Association have any forums for this kind of
  stuff? Do we really have to have 2000+ posts about guns on a Mercedes
  forum, when MB don't even make firearms?
  I don't mind the odd off topic discussion but as always when the chatter
 
  comes around to guns in goes on and on and on and it is always the same
  discussion, just a different way around.
  I do not make a habit of jumping on people if posts are off topic but
  enough is enough. I know those of you who have a 44 lying next to the
  keyboard, in case someone invades your home, don't understand that there
 
  are people in the world who actually hate guns and find talk about these
 
  machines of death offensive. Yeah I spose you do know that and are just
  waiting your chance to cull the herd to make it stronger but hate breeds
 
  hate.
  I wouldn't mind a discussion of why the US has this culture of violence
  but that might not be what people want to get into and this may not be
  the place for that.
 
  Rich Thomas wrote:
   What kind of oil do you use on your, wait, make that, in your, uh,
   car!!?  Yeah, that's the ticket!
  
   --Rr
  
   Wonko the Sane wrote:
  
   I was trying to start a new oil thread so we could talk about
  something
   other than guns and penis size.
  
  
 
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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I know what you mean about the cloud cover. I lived across the river 
from Portland in the hills outside of Vancouver for a few years. I was 
traveling for work, and every time I was heading home with plans, 
everything was soggy and gray . It got old pretty quick
I'll never forget my well adapted native neighbor, standing in his 
driveway in shorts with the barbecue fired upwith freezing rain 
coming down. When I looked at him, he just smiled and said  It's the 
first day of spring 

---Robert

LWB250 wrote:
 Oy gevalt!  You can't imagine the idiots, although
 many of them are from out of state...

 Haven't lived in Iowa, but did some work in Des Moines
 and northern Iowa (for Winnebago in Mason City.) 
 Washington and Oregon are nice in the summer, but I'm
 not sure i could put up with the cloud cover from
 October to April.  I did a lot of work in Portland and
 Seattle, and in the summer when the weather was clear
 they were truly beautiful places to be.  I liked
 Portland the best.  In the winter - yuck!

 I would love to live in San Luis Obispo.  That,
 outside of the Sierra foothills around Auburn, CA, is
 one of the most beautiful places in the Lower 48 that
 isn't a national park.  I was there a number of times
 to do some hush-hush work on OTHB radar sites in the
 mountains above Atascadero.  From some of the sites
 you could see well out into the Pacific in one
 direction, and in the other, all the way to the
 Sierras.

 sigh

 Dan


 --- archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Example of idiots?  Florida in general has often
 been called a human jungle. 
 Iowa and Washington/Oregon are my favorite states as
 well as central coastal 
 California.
 Gerry
 




 
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[MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Hi everyone,

Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour, with
a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000 rpm.
At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it wanted
to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind of
an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool for
an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
range.

Any thoughts??
Thanks in advance.

Ed
300E
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[MBZ] Stuck wheel!!!!!

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day.  The guy in
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!!  Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub.  AH!  After
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
hammer against a piece of wood, it came off.  There was some light rust on
the hub.  I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
on the aluminum rim.  No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
rotor?  I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
the past with aluminum rims.  Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ed
300E
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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Rick Knoble
 Hotdogs:  Beginning with the best were:  Hebrew National kosher beef, 
 Nathans Famous beef

That is all I buy. The rest are butts  guts. I have so spoiled my kids 
pallets that they won't eat any other hot dog and YES they CAN tell the 
difference. My 14 y/o son even likes onions and garlic. Oh, and steaks medium 
rare. To him, A-1 is sacrilege.

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread BillR
I'll still take many parts of FL over VA and IN where I have lived.  I was
born and raised here so that probably slants my view. Where are you?
BillR
Jacksonville FL 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LWB250
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 8:04 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

Having lived in the Midwest, San Francisco and now
Florida, I can say without question that the Midwest
was (is) best.  Florida, at least the part of Florida
I live in, is nothing short of Hell on Earth populated
by idiots.

Dan


--- Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Iowa is a very nice place to live.
 
 I grew up in WV, went to college in SC, and have
 lived since then in NC, VA,
 NC again, MA, FL, NYC, VA/DC, and FL once again.
 Iowa is definitely the
 nicest place I've had the opportunity to call home.
 



   


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Re: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread E M
I tend not to make political statements, they're all just tools and machines
in my eyes.  How you choose to use them is up to you. To seperate out the
those who use guns for sport from the other mentioned hobbyist, may be more
of a political statement than linking them all together. :-)

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 watch guys, car guys, camera guys -- tons of overlap.  watch guys and pen
 guys for reasons i can't fathom.  watch guys tend to be car guys.   gun
 guys  might be more a political statement than  linking o the rest, at
 least
 it is with me.

 On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  I think most companies that were able, made some supplies for the
  war.  Many
  made the .45, including Singer, the sewing machine company.  I also
 helped
  work on restoring a plane that had V12 Merlins made by Maytag, the
 washing
  machine company. hee hee.  I think Packard made them too, and the word
  was,
  the Packards were better.
 
  I would like to add one quick word on guns.  Up here in the north, we
 are
  not allowed to keep guns for home or personal defence.  However, most
 ppl
  here that do belong to handgun clubs, you will find in general have an
  interest in mechanical things, and it's not unusual to talk to those in
  clubs and they also have an interest in other mechanical
 things.  Another
  very commom interest for those into handguns here are cameras, the older
  pre
  digital ones.  I have always enjoyed guns for their craftsmanship and
 fine
  mechanical engineering.  It is amazing to think that a gun, will shoot
  thousands of rounds, under huge pressures, and will do so for decades,
  with
  very very few failures.  Ofcourse, this is very different to the
  discussion
  on weapons for self and home defence, of which I also have opinions, but
  I'm
  sure no one really cares about one way or the other. :-)
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  On 18/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   I believe that if you do your research that you will find that
 Mercedes
   did make fire arms during WW2.
  
   Thanks, Tom
   256-656-1924
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Sent: 8/18/07 9:18 PM
   Subject: [MBZ] Now: Mobil 1 gun oil
  
   Ooooh goody, here come 200 posts about what oil is best for your
 killing
  
   machine, I can hardly wait.
   Don't the National Rambo Association have any forums for this kind of
   stuff? Do we really have to have 2000+ posts about guns on a Mercedes
   forum, when MB don't even make firearms?
   I don't mind the odd off topic discussion but as always when the
 chatter
  
   comes around to guns in goes on and on and on and it is always the
 same
   discussion, just a different way around.
   I do not make a habit of jumping on people if posts are off topic but
   enough is enough. I know those of you who have a 44 lying next to the
   keyboard, in case someone invades your home, don't understand that
 there
  
   are people in the world who actually hate guns and find talk about
 these
  
   machines of death offensive. Yeah I spose you do know that and are
 just
   waiting your chance to cull the herd to make it stronger but hate
 breeds
  
   hate.
   I wouldn't mind a discussion of why the US has this culture of
 violence
   but that might not be what people want to get into and this may not be
   the place for that.
  
   Rich Thomas wrote:
What kind of oil do you use on your, wait, make that, in your, uh,
car!!?  Yeah, that's the ticket!
   
--Rr
   
Wonko the Sane wrote:
   
I was trying to start a new oil thread so we could talk about
   something
other than guns and penis size.
   
   
  
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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
Valrico, which is east of Tampa, east of  I-75  301
about 9 miles, to be more specific.

If it wasn't for the flora, fauna and architecture,
you would think you were in the Midwest, considering
the backgrounds of most of the people who live around
me.  I don't think there's a native Floridian in the
bunch.

I don't mind the place in general, I just hate the
weather.  it's simply too stinkin' hot 6+ months of
the year to do anything outside.  I would gladly trade
for Wisconsin winters.

Dan



--- BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'll still take many parts of FL over VA and IN
 where I have lived.  I was
 born and raised here so that probably slants my
 view. Where are you?
 BillR
 Jacksonville FL 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of LWB250
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 8:04 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice
 place to live
 
 Having lived in the Midwest, San Francisco and now
 Florida, I can say without question that the Midwest
 was (is) best.  Florida, at least the part of
 Florida
 I live in, is nothing short of Hell on Earth
 populated
 by idiots.
 
 Dan
 
 
 --- Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Iowa is a very nice place to live.
  
  I grew up in WV, went to college in SC, and have
  lived since then in NC, VA,
  NC again, MA, FL, NYC, VA/DC, and FL once again.
  Iowa is definitely the
  nicest place I've had the opportunity to call
 home.
  
 
 
 



 
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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
I had never had a Nathan's hot dog in my life until
last year.  I am sold.  There is no equal.

Dan (who was the only Gentile in the neighborhood he
grew up in)


--- Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Hotdogs:  Beginning with the best were:  Hebrew
 National kosher beef, 
  Nathans Famous beef



   

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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
And that certainly is true for the fall/winter months,
but you have to admit, when the sun comes out and it
warms up, the Portland area is a glorious place.

I used to come out early for work and spend the
weekends at Cannon Beach (token reference to weapons.)

The first time I was in Portland was in December.  I
can recall driving down to the hotel (Holiday Inn down
by the science museum/downtown) and as I descended the
hills into the river valley, seeing everything so
green around me.  It was almost surreal, as I had a
real winter mindset in my brain, and to see stuff all
green and growing just seemed weird.

I like the area south of Portland where all the hops
are raised.  That's cool - I had never seen hops
growing before.

Dan

--- Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I know what you mean about the cloud cover. I lived
 across the river 
 from Portland in the hills outside of Vancouver for
 a few years. I was 
 traveling for work, and every time I was heading
 home with plans, 
 everything was soggy and gray . It got old pretty
 quick
 I'll never forget my well adapted native neighbor,
 standing in his 
 driveway in shorts with the barbecue fired
 upwith freezing rain 
 coming down. When I looked at him, he just smiled
 and said  It's the 
 first day of spring 



   

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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread E M
The big question is, to steam or boil?? :-)  I like to wash down my dogs
with German wheat beer. Oh ya! ;-)

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had never had a Nathan's hot dog in my life until
 last year.  I am sold.  There is no equal.

 Dan (who was the only Gentile in the neighborhood he
 grew up in)


 --- Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   Hotdogs:  Beginning with the best were:  Hebrew
  National kosher beef,
   Nathans Famous beef





 
 Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car
 Finder tool.
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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Hurst
any one of the classic new york beef hotdogs are super good.  a nathans
grilled with kraut and a touch of mustard is really as good as it gets.  the
few times i've been to coney island (not a good neighborhood since lindsay
and moses, two of the most evil men in the history of the rogues gallery
that is public office,  decided it would be fun to destroy), i've always
ridden the cyclone and gotten food at nathan's.

the good beef dogs like nathans, hebrew national and boar's head tend to be
pretty expensive.  but they are the only way to go.

On 8/19/07, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had never had a Nathan's hot dog in my life until
 last year.  I am sold.  There is no equal.

 Dan (who was the only Gentile in the neighborhood he
 grew up in)


 --- Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   Hotdogs:  Beginning with the best were:  Hebrew
  National kosher beef,
   Nathans Famous beef





 
 Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car
 Finder tool.
 http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/

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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Rick Knoble


 The big question is, to steam or boil?? :-) 

Steam. 

I like to wash down my dogs
 with German wheat beer. Oh ya! ;-)

Sadly, I know not when to say when, so Pepsi or IBC for me. 

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Mobil 1

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Thompson
Somehow, I suspected that. Truly evil thinking, that is...

Gary Thompson

On 8/18/07, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I was trying to start a new oil thread so we could talk about something
 other than guns and penis size.

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[MBZ] Ignition Lock Housing Replacement

2007-08-19 Thread johnvi
List-

Has anyone ever replaced a Ignition Lock Housing (link below) on a 123  
Chassis (240D) car?  How did you do it? or, what page of what manual  
tells how it is done.
Thank you,
John Ingram
83 240D 245K



http://catalog.worldpac.com/buymb/022406/wizard.jsp?header=http://www.buymbparts.com/header.txtfooter=http://www.buymbparts.com/footer.txtpartner=buymbclientid=buymbpartsbaseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/cookieid=1UB1DFV6C25R12TQC2year=1983make=MBmodel=240-D-002category=Allpart=Ignition+Lock+Housing


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Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Mobil 1

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
How about discussing fishing? This should be a little more palletable
subject for the anti-handgun folks.

You know, the act of presenting a tasty bit of food to an unsuspect
fish, only to snag sensitive mouth parts with a barbed hook, causing
unimaginable amounts of pain, followed by dragging the fish out of the
water by his hooked mouth?

And finally, we add insult to injury by sliding the fish onto a nylon
line or placing him in a cooler of ice water, allowing him to die a slow
death. After all, we want him to be fresh when we get him home and
scale him alive.

Thanks, Tom
256-656-1924

-Original Message-
From: Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: 8/19/07 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Mobil 1

Somehow, I suspected that. Truly evil thinking, that is...

Gary Thompson

On 8/18/07, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I was trying to start a new oil thread so we could talk about
something
 other than guns and penis size.

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Re: [MBZ] Ioway

2007-08-19 Thread Wonko the Sane
In places, but in others surprisingly hilly.

On 8/19/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So, what's Iowa like at times other than presidential elections?

 Flat.

 RLE


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LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

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Re: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!!!!!

2007-08-19 Thread Peter Frederick
A very light coating of ant-iseize will work.  I also put a very thin 
layer of anti-seize on the face of the hub when installing a new rotor, 
too.

However, I've never seen a stuck alloy wheel with correctly torqued lug 
bolts. either.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with 
loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about 
everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or 
adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great 
inventions of the age of old cars.  

Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind 
up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem 
then would be ?

 
Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

 E M [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote 
 
Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on
the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!
 
So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?
 
Thanks,
Ed
300E
 





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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hot dogs was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
John Boy and Billy advertise (fictional, I think) potted 
meat as Full of peckers and lips since 1938.

Southern boys will know about John Boy and Billy.  
Others may not.  Their loss.   

Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 12:26:42 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

 Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote
 
 Hotdogs: Beginning with the best were: Hebrew National kosher beef, 
 Nathans Famous beef
 
That is all I buy. The rest are butts  guts. I have so spoiled my kids
pallets that they won't eat any other hot dog and YES they CAN tell the
difference. My 14 y/o son even likes onions and garlic. Oh, and steaks
medium rare. To him, A-1 is sacrilege.
 
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
 
 





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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
Yu have another problem - the wheel should sit flush with the hub with no
interference. With the last one of these I had, the lip on the inside of the
wheel was damaged.

Adding anti-seize is just working around the issue.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:12 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with 
loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about 
everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or 
adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great 
inventions of the age of old cars.  

Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind 
up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem 
then would be ?

 
Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

 E M [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote 
 
Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on
the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!
 
So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?
 
Thanks,
Ed
300E
 





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Re: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!!!!!

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Thanks Peter,
This wheel was by no way torqued correctly!!  I had to put a 3 foot piece of
pipe on the wrench to get the bolts out!!  Wonder the rotors didnt look like
salad bowls, but them seem ok.  I always do the back of the rotor where it
meets the hug too.

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A very light coating of ant-iseize will work.  I also put a very thin
 layer of anti-seize on the face of the hub when installing a new rotor,
 too.

 However, I've never seen a stuck alloy wheel with correctly torqued lug
 bolts. either.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Mitch Haley


Robert Bigham wrote:
 
 I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
 loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

Usually caused by corrosion bonding between the wheel center hole
and the hub. Give both a few strokes with a wire brush. I've had
to loosen lugs and drive back and forth until the wheels pop loose
before, almost always with aluminum wheels that hadn't been dislodged
in a couple of years. Haven't yet met a MBZ wheel that I couldn't
yank off by hand, but I'm sure it's possible. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Hee hee, I should have proof read that Robert.  I drove the car, and then
allowed it to heat sink before before trying the bolts again!!! :-)  Not
even Im brave (stupid) enough to drive the car around withou any bolts
holding on the wheels!!! ha ha ha.

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
 loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

 How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about
 everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or
 adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great
 inventions of the age of old cars.

 Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind
 up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem
 then would be ?


 Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
 Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

 E M [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

 Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
 shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the
 bolts
 off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
 finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
 it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
 hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on
 the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
 on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
 so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

 So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
 lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
 where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
 rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
 the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?

 Thanks,
 Ed
 300E






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Re: [MBZ] Dodge 600

2007-08-19 Thread Peter T . Arnold
On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 12:51:46 -0600, you wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 10:18:00 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Probably the same way they do it on the 103/104.
 
 Craig McCluskey wrote:
  On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 06:43:25 -0400 Peter T. Arnold
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  Blew head gasket in January at about 80Kmi.  I went to dealer with
  antifreeze dripping from tailpipe.  He calls me back next afternoon,
  the car is ready!  They swapped head gasket with out removing the
  head!  I groaned, he told me that he'd guarantee it until I junked
 the  car.  We drove it to about 200Kmi, no problem.
  
  Ok, how in the world did they do that?

Which is?


Craig
1) Drain Cooling system

2) Remove stuff on top of engine.

3) Unbolt Head, llift it about 1/2 inch.

Slide out the old

slide in the new

Reverse assemble

--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 12Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  280KMI  Inherited by Grandson
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!

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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when you
torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things can
kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never leave the
car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed now
and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
Just have to do the other three now.

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yu have another problem - the wheel should sit flush with the hub with no
 interference. With the last one of these I had, the lip on the inside of
 the
 wheel was damaged.

 Adding anti-seize is just working around the issue.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:12 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
 loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

 How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about
 everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or
 adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great
 inventions of the age of old cars.

 Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind
 up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem
 then would be ?


 Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
 Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

 E M [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

 Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
 shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the
 bolts
 off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
 finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
 it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
 hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on
 the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
 on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
 so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

 So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
 lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
 where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
 rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
 the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?

 Thanks,
 Ed
 300E






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[MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Rambo goes fishing

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
Sure as long as it is dynamite fishing. If it don't go bang it ain't no fun.

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 How about discussing fishing? This should be a little more palletable
 subject for the anti-handgun folks.

 You know, the act of presenting a tasty bit of food to an unsuspect
 fish, only to snag sensitive mouth parts with a barbed hook, causing
 unimaginable amounts of pain, followed by dragging the fish out of the
 water by his hooked mouth?

 And finally, we add insult to injury by sliding the fish onto a nylon
 line or placing him in a cooler of ice water, allowing him to die a slow
 death. After all, we want him to be fresh when we get him home and
 scale him alive.

 Thanks, Tom
 256-656-1924
   

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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Maybe too, we mercedes owners are a little more fussy with maintance and
have the wheels off more often, so it's not such a problem.  I nearly pulled
the car off the axle stands before reaching for the hammer!   :-)

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Robert Bigham wrote:
 
  I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
  loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

 Usually caused by corrosion bonding between the wheel center hole
 and the hub. Give both a few strokes with a wire brush. I've had
 to loosen lugs and drive back and forth until the wheels pop loose
 before, almost always with aluminum wheels that hadn't been dislodged
 in a couple of years. Haven't yet met a MBZ wheel that I couldn't
 yank off by hand, but I'm sure it's possible.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Rambo goes fishing

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
Not done that but I've done hand crank generator fishing.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Hendrik
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Rambo goes fishing

Sure as long as it is dynamite fishing. If it don't go bang it ain't no fun.

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 How about discussing fishing? This should be a little more palletable
 subject for the anti-handgun folks.

 You know, the act of presenting a tasty bit of food to an unsuspect
 fish, only to snag sensitive mouth parts with a barbed hook, causing
 unimaginable amounts of pain, followed by dragging the fish out of the
 water by his hooked mouth?

 And finally, we add insult to injury by sliding the fish onto a nylon
 line or placing him in a cooler of ice water, allowing him to die a slow
 death. After all, we want him to be fresh when we get him home and
 scale him alive.

 Thanks, Tom
 256-656-1924
   

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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread John Freer
Ed, when you are stopped in D with this high idle problem, you are putting
extreme pressure on the transmission which will lead very shortly to a Ka
Blamo of the transmission.

Don't drive it until you can get this serious problem fixed. My 92 500SL is
now sitting in my garage as undriveable until I can get the same problem
fixed. My issue is a bad ETA.

Again, your transmission is having a serious fight with the engine and guess
who's going to win?


On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi everyone,

 Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour,
 with
 a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
 trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
 rpm.
 At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
 wanted
 to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
 prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind
 of
 an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
 stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool
 for
 an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
 75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
 range.

 Any thoughts??
 Thanks in advance.

 Ed
 300E
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
When is the last time you tested your O2 sensor, in a KE car the O2 
sensor is the most important input when the car is at operating range.
If it is telling the system that the exhaust is lean then the FI 
computer will try and dump more fuel into the motor.
However if this is an intermittent problem I would be looking at temp 
sensor going wonky, which will tell the idle adjustment motor to up the 
amount of air going into the motor.
Air leak? Doubtful as it would be a constant thing and a vacuum tube 
leaking (which can be intermittent) wouldn't cause this amount of high 
idle. Just to explain this a bit more, in order to have a high smooth 
idle of 1700-2000 you need both more air and fuel, just having one will 
make the car run like a dog. So if you have an air leak on the other 
side of the air flow sensor plate then you will not have more fuel going 
into the engine and as such will have a lean mixture (lots of air but 
not enough fuel).
How familiar are you with the CIS/E system? What you really wanna do is 
to reproduce the problem on demand by making the motor think it is cold 
when in fact it is at operating temp. If by doing this it goes up to the 
high idle you mentioned, then you know which circuit is being naughty.
Also the later KE (KE3(?)) systems have a primitive fault code readout 
which is easy to do with the right equipment.
Hopefully others will stop talking about you know what and help you out 
with your real MB problem.
BTW is it a E300 or 300E, they are two very different cars with very 
different FI systems.

E M wrote:
 Hi everyone,

 Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour, with
 a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
 trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000 rpm.
 At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it wanted
 to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
 prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind of
 an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
 stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool for
 an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
 75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
 range.

 Any thoughts??
 Thanks in advance.

 Ed
 300E
   

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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Hi John, yes, I'm sure you are right in that the added pressure is being
transfered to the tranny, though of course you don't see the high rpm until
the load is taken off the trans, and the car is parked.  Funny enough,
today, the problem seems to have been somewhat fixed, under similar driving
conditions.  I find these problems that come and go the most frustrating to
trace!
Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ed, when you are stopped in D with this high idle problem, you are putting
 extreme pressure on the transmission which will lead very shortly to a Ka
 Blamo of the transmission.

 Don't drive it until you can get this serious problem fixed. My 92 500SL
 is
 now sitting in my garage as undriveable until I can get the same problem
 fixed. My issue is a bad ETA.

 Again, your transmission is having a serious fight with the engine and
 guess
 who's going to win?


 On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hi everyone,
 
  Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour,
  with
  a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
  trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
  rpm.
  At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
  wanted
  to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
  prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind
  of
  an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
  stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool
  for
  an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
  75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
  range.
 
  Any thoughts??
  Thanks in advance.
 
  Ed
  300E
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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread E M
I last check the 02 with a dwell meter off the test terminal on the inside
fender about a month ago.  At that time, it was fine.  I am somewhat
familiar with a CIS system, not an expert, but have kind of a working
knowledge of most of the systems.  Not sure about the temp sensor though, as
I don't think the CIS on my old 911SC has one, but I could be wrong??  Where
would I look for and test the temp sensor on my car?  It's a 1988 W124 with
the 3litre gas engine.  I don't think my car has the system whereby you can
pull any codes, but again, I could be wrong.

Thanks again for your help.  If I can't figure it out, I can always take it
out into a field and shoot it!  hee hee

Ed
300E...the high idle isn't the problem, is all the slow traffic. lol  :-)

On 19/08/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 When is the last time you tested your O2 sensor, in a KE car the O2
 sensor is the most important input when the car is at operating range.
 If it is telling the system that the exhaust is lean then the FI
 computer will try and dump more fuel into the motor.
 However if this is an intermittent problem I would be looking at temp
 sensor going wonky, which will tell the idle adjustment motor to up the
 amount of air going into the motor.
 Air leak? Doubtful as it would be a constant thing and a vacuum tube
 leaking (which can be intermittent) wouldn't cause this amount of high
 idle. Just to explain this a bit more, in order to have a high smooth
 idle of 1700-2000 you need both more air and fuel, just having one will
 make the car run like a dog. So if you have an air leak on the other
 side of the air flow sensor plate then you will not have more fuel going
 into the engine and as such will have a lean mixture (lots of air but
 not enough fuel).
 How familiar are you with the CIS/E system? What you really wanna do is
 to reproduce the problem on demand by making the motor think it is cold
 when in fact it is at operating temp. If by doing this it goes up to the
 high idle you mentioned, then you know which circuit is being naughty.
 Also the later KE (KE3(?)) systems have a primitive fault code readout
 which is easy to do with the right equipment.
 Hopefully others will stop talking about you know what and help you out
 with your real MB problem.
 BTW is it a E300 or 300E, they are two very different cars with very
 different FI systems.

 E M wrote:
  Hi everyone,
 
  Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour,
 with
  a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
  trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
 rpm.
  At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
 wanted
  to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
  prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind
 of
  an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
  stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool
 for
  an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
  75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
  range.
 
  Any thoughts??
  Thanks in advance.
 
  Ed
  300E
 

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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
The symptoms - high RPM when out of gear just means that the engine is being
forced to run slower when in gear and all of that extra energy is being
dumped into the transmission when it's in gear. And the torque converter is
converting it into heat  if it gets hot enough, you won't be going too
far

Ka Blamo of the transmission is a pretty accurate description of the
failure that WILL OCCUR if you continue to drive the car without fixing the
high idle problem.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:46 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

Hi John, yes, I'm sure you are right in that the added pressure is being
transfered to the tranny, though of course you don't see the high rpm until
the load is taken off the trans, and the car is parked.  Funny enough,
today, the problem seems to have been somewhat fixed, under similar driving
conditions.  I find these problems that come and go the most frustrating to
trace!
Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ed, when you are stopped in D with this high idle problem, you are putting
 extreme pressure on the transmission which will lead very shortly to a Ka
 Blamo of the transmission.

 Don't drive it until you can get this serious problem fixed. My 92 500SL
 is
 now sitting in my garage as undriveable until I can get the same problem
 fixed. My issue is a bad ETA.

 Again, your transmission is having a serious fight with the engine and
 guess
 who's going to win?


 On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hi everyone,
 
  Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour,
  with
  a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
  trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
  rpm.
  At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
  wanted
  to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
  prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind
  of
  an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
  stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool
  for
  an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
  75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
  range.
 
  Any thoughts??
  Thanks in advance.
 
  Ed
  300E
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread John Freer
Ed, that's because the transmission is trying to bring the rpm's down to
normal in D.

Shift to N or P and you will see the RPM's move up the scale.

Using the A/C will bring the RPM's down somewhat.

When my problem first appeared, I would shift into N at a long stop light
but that's not good for the driveline either as it clunks into D or R. And,
i would have to shut it down in D as a precaution against dieseling, etc.

John

On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi John, yes, I'm sure you are right in that the added pressure is being
 transfered to the tranny, though of course you don't see the high rpm
 until
 the load is taken off the trans, and the car is parked.  Funny enough,
 today, the problem seems to have been somewhat fixed, under similar
 driving
 conditions.  I find these problems that come and go the most frustrating
 to
 trace!
 Ed
 300E

 On 19/08/07, John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Ed, when you are stopped in D with this high idle problem, you are
 putting
  extreme pressure on the transmission which will lead very shortly to a
 Ka
  Blamo of the transmission.
 
  Don't drive it until you can get this serious problem fixed. My 92 500SL
  is
  now sitting in my garage as undriveable until I can get the same problem
  fixed. My issue is a bad ETA.
 
  Again, your transmission is having a serious fight with the engine and
  guess
  who's going to win?
 
 
  On 8/19/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   Hi everyone,
  
   Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an
 hour,
   with
   a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end
 of
   trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
   rpm.
   At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
   wanted
   to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
   prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some
 kind
   of
   an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a
 WUR
   stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to
 cool
   for
   an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about
 about
   75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a
 normal
   range.
  
   Any thoughts??
   Thanks in advance.
  
   Ed
   300E
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
Look at the small rectangular box that's attached to the side of the fuel
distributor. It contains a reed valve  the reed may be cracked.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

I last check the 02 with a dwell meter off the test terminal on the inside
fender about a month ago.  At that time, it was fine.  I am somewhat
familiar with a CIS system, not an expert, but have kind of a working
knowledge of most of the systems.  Not sure about the temp sensor though, as
I don't think the CIS on my old 911SC has one, but I could be wrong??  Where
would I look for and test the temp sensor on my car?  It's a 1988 W124 with
the 3litre gas engine.  I don't think my car has the system whereby you can
pull any codes, but again, I could be wrong.

Thanks again for your help.  If I can't figure it out, I can always take it
out into a field and shoot it!  hee hee

Ed
300E...the high idle isn't the problem, is all the slow traffic. lol  :-)

On 19/08/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 When is the last time you tested your O2 sensor, in a KE car the O2
 sensor is the most important input when the car is at operating range.
 If it is telling the system that the exhaust is lean then the FI
 computer will try and dump more fuel into the motor.
 However if this is an intermittent problem I would be looking at temp
 sensor going wonky, which will tell the idle adjustment motor to up the
 amount of air going into the motor.
 Air leak? Doubtful as it would be a constant thing and a vacuum tube
 leaking (which can be intermittent) wouldn't cause this amount of high
 idle. Just to explain this a bit more, in order to have a high smooth
 idle of 1700-2000 you need both more air and fuel, just having one will
 make the car run like a dog. So if you have an air leak on the other
 side of the air flow sensor plate then you will not have more fuel going
 into the engine and as such will have a lean mixture (lots of air but
 not enough fuel).
 How familiar are you with the CIS/E system? What you really wanna do is
 to reproduce the problem on demand by making the motor think it is cold
 when in fact it is at operating temp. If by doing this it goes up to the
 high idle you mentioned, then you know which circuit is being naughty.
 Also the later KE (KE3(?)) systems have a primitive fault code readout
 which is easy to do with the right equipment.
 Hopefully others will stop talking about you know what and help you out
 with your real MB problem.
 BTW is it a E300 or 300E, they are two very different cars with very
 different FI systems.

 E M wrote:
  Hi everyone,
 
  Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an hour,
 with
  a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end of
  trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
 rpm.
  At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
 wanted
  to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
  prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some kind
 of
  an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a WUR
  stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to cool
 for
  an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about about
  75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a normal
  range.
 
  Any thoughts??
  Thanks in advance.
 
  Ed
  300E
 

 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread Hendrik
The reason you don't see the high RPM is because the tranny is 
determining engine idle, in this type of situation the car can still be 
driven but it is advisable to shift into N but not P while stationary 
and shift into gear with your foot off the brake, which puts less strain 
on the drive train. Coming to a stop put the box into N before braking.

E M wrote:
 Hi John, yes, I'm sure you are right in that the added pressure is being
 transfered to the tranny, though of course you don't see the high rpm until
 the load is taken off the trans, and the car is parked.  Funny enough,
 today, the problem seems to have been somewhat fixed, under similar driving
 conditions.  I find these problems that come and go the most frustrating to
 trace!
 Ed
 300E

   

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[MBZ] OT: Free Mac

2007-08-19 Thread Craig McCluskey
My next door neighbor was given a free Mac recently.

It's:

- Power Mac G4
- EMC #1896
- S/N XB14315MKSL
- 896 MB RAM (128 + 256 + 512)
- 40 GB disk
- CD-RW drive
- ZIP drive
- NV11 (whatever that is)
- Boot ROM version 4.25f1

His questions are:

- Can an ordinary IDE DVD-ROM drive be substituted for the CD-RW?
  If so, how does one get the old drive out and the new one in?

- Can a second disk be added (the one in there looks like an IDE drive)?

- Can an ordinary flat panel display be hooked up to the non-standard
  DVI connector on the graphics card? If so, how?

- How much memory can be used?

- Can the latest OS be loaded on the computer once it has a DVD-capable
  drive?


Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Free Mac

2007-08-19 Thread Peter Frederick
Hmm, assuming the G4 cases open like the BW G3 cases, there is a latch 
on the side, lift it up and the MB carrier and side will open out and 
down.  You can then unclip the cover over the CD-RW drive.  This will 
reveal a pair of retaining screw, take them out and unplug the cables, 
the entire carrier will slide out (may be spring clipped in, check).  
You can then remove the screw that hold the drive to the carrier and 
swap in a standard IDE DVD drive of your choice.  Panasonic DVD-RWs are 
nice, and there are some LGs that handle DVD-RAM (can be used just like 
a standard hard drive) -- that's what I have in there.

You can add another IDE drive, although it may be limited to 128 GB by 
the IDE drive chips, I'm not sure when this restriction was lifted -- 
remember, it only had a 40GB drive to start with!  there will be a 
bracket for it.  Make sure it's jumped as a slave drive.

If you are going to install a new OS (easy once the DVD drive is 
installed), you can install it on either drive.  Be prepared for a LONG 
wait as it optimizes -- you really want to get the updated version, or 
a single step updater (you can download them if you have broadband, 
it's very unlikely you can maintain a dialup connection long enough to 
get them intact).

You can put at least as many 512 MB memory chips as there are slots -- 
but check to make sure they work, some Apples that age require 16 chip 
DIMMS, and will ignore half of the memory on 8 chip DIMMS.  Match the 
one you have and you will be fine.

Don't know about the DVI connection -- is there a standard VGA output 
as well?  If not, it's DVI or get another video card that works.

If this is too complicated, he can send it to me and I will dispose 
of it correctly for him!

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Free Mac

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
Sounds like a Quicksilver, based on the boot ROM
version and the video card.

They should get a new Pioneer DVD-ROM drive from OWC. 
If you get one without the software bundle, it's about
30 bucks.  Takes about 10 minutes to install. 
Instruction are supplied.

It can handle up to two IDE drives, including the
current boot drive.  There is a drive cradle in the
bottom of the case to the left of the boot drive.  Any
standard IDE drive will work, however, some of these
models cannot recognize drives larger than 128MB
without a newer controller card or software.

I'm not sure I understand the question about the DVI
connector, as I am not familiar with the NVIDIA
GeForce 3, or if it has DVI.  If not, it has a
standard 15 pin VGA connector, so it should work.

Three RAM slots for a total of 1.5G approximately (3 x
512MB)  This type of RAM is not generic and should be
purchased from a vendor familiar with Macs.  Timing
and chipsets are critical on these older models. 
Again, check with OWC (Other World Computing).

Yes, however, OS X 10.4.9 is going to be the last to
support these older machines, or so I hear.  That's
not a bad thing - it's the latest iteration of OS X,
so you've got a long way to go before it becomes an
anchor.

Since they got it for free, if they want to put
$250-$300 into it and buy a DVD drive, some more
memory and a upgraded processor, this could be a very
nice machine for a long time to come.  They are in
pretty good shape memory-wise, so unless they want to
do something really memory intensive they're probably
in good shape there.

If they boot it up, have them click on the Apple in
the upper left corner of the screen and click on
About this Mac tell us what it says there.  That
will help to identify it more closely.

MacDan



--- Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My next door neighbor was given a free Mac recently.
 
 It's:
 
 - Power Mac G4
 - EMC #1896
 - S/N XB14315MKSL
 - 896 MB RAM (128 + 256 + 512)
 - 40 GB disk
 - CD-RW drive
 - ZIP drive
 - NV11 (whatever that is)
 - Boot ROM version 4.25f1
 
 His questions are:
 
 - Can an ordinary IDE DVD-ROM drive be substituted
 for the CD-RW?
   If so, how does one get the old drive out and the
 new one in?
 
 - Can a second disk be added (the one in there looks
 like an IDE drive)?
 
 - Can an ordinary flat panel display be hooked up to
 the non-standard
   DVI connector on the graphics card? If so, how?
 
 - How much memory can be used?
 
 - Can the latest OS be loaded on the computer once
 it has a DVD-capable
   drive?
 
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Rambo goes fishing

2007-08-19 Thread LWB250
When I worked for Kohler we used to get calls on these
really weird high cycle (180Hz) generators we made
years ago for a concrete finishing company that used
them to power those paddle things to smooth out slabs.

Seems that the high frequency power works well when it
comes to shocking fish, too.  A number of state fish
and wildlife departments used them in boats to shock
fish so they could do fish counts.

I guess it would stun the fish but not kill them. 
They would float to the surface for a short time,
which allowed the FW people to do a count to check on
numbers and species.

zzzap!

Saved a lot of money on worms, I guess.

Dan
--- Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Not done that but I've done hand crank generator
 fishing.
 
 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
  
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Hendrik
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:10 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Rambo goes
 fishing
 
 Sure as long as it is dynamite fishing. If it don't
 go bang it ain't no fun.
 
 Tom Hargrave wrote:
  How about discussing fishing? This should be a
 little more palletable
  subject for the anti-handgun folks.
 
  You know, the act of presenting a tasty bit of
 food to an unsuspect
  fish, only to snag sensitive mouth parts with a
 barbed hook, causing
  unimaginable amounts of pain, followed by dragging
 the fish out of the
  water by his hooked mouth?
 
  And finally, we add insult to injury by sliding
 the fish onto a nylon
  line or placing him in a cooler of ice water,
 allowing him to die a slow
  death. After all, we want him to be fresh when
 we get him home and
  scale him alive.
 
  Thanks, Tom
  256-656-1924

 
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Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. 
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Re: [MBZ] Light beer and hotdogs: was Mobil 1 gun oil

2007-08-19 Thread Wonko the Sane
Might I suggest a magazine subscription for his next birthday, in the
interest of diversity and education?

http://www.vegetariantimes.com/

On 8/19/07, Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 That is all I buy. The rest are butts  guts. I have so spoiled my kids
 pallets that they won't eat any other hot dog and YES they CAN tell the
 difference. My 14 y/o son even likes onions and garlic. Oh, and steaks
 medium rare. To him, A-1 is sacrilege.

 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT

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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Free Mac

2007-08-19 Thread Gary Hurst
What os is on it now? what is the processor speed?

my thought is this.  if you don't have 10.4  on it no, get a BNIB retail
copy of os x 10.4.6 (about 80 bucks on ebay) and then get a superdrive
(under 100 bucks) to replace the cd drive.  ram is fine as is.  you can add
a big hard drive for like 60 bucks if you want one.  you should be set for
years for about 200 bucks.


On 8/19/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My next door neighbor was given a free Mac recently.

 It's:

 - Power Mac G4
 - EMC #1896
 - S/N XB14315MKSL
 - 896 MB RAM (128 + 256 + 512)
 - 40 GB disk
 - CD-RW drive
 - ZIP drive
 - NV11 (whatever that is)
 - Boot ROM version 4.25f1

 His questions are:

 - Can an ordinary IDE DVD-ROM drive be substituted for the CD-RW?
   If so, how does one get the old drive out and the new one in?

 - Can a second disk be added (the one in there looks like an IDE drive)?

 - Can an ordinary flat panel display be hooked up to the non-standard
   DVI connector on the graphics card? If so, how?

 - How much memory can be used?

 - Can the latest OS be loaded on the computer once it has a DVD-capable
   drive?


 Thanks,


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread OK Don
That used to be a favorite trick with the VW Microbus, back in the day 

On 8/19/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I saw one of those last week in KY when I was visiting my dad.  I don't
 think it was a runner, but someone had taken out the center section of
 some sort of little van (not a full size, like one of those tiny jap
 delivery vans).  Thing had about a 5 ft wheelbase if that.  Looked kinda
 funny, they use it for a billboard in front of their business.  I
 shoulda snapped a pic of it.

 --R

 Tom Hargrave wrote:
  I wanted to chop the middle out of a Dodge mini-van and make it into a
  micro-mini-van. I figured I could remove the entire center section
 including
  the side door. Then I could install chrome rims, wide tires, loud stereo 
  cruise the streets playing Barry Manilow and John Denver.
 
  Wife nix'd that one.
 
  Thanks,
  Tom Hargrave
  www.kegkits.com
  256-656-1924
 
 
 


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-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Hi Tom,
How easy it is to take apart?  I ask this without even having looked at it
yet.  Will I be required to buy any new bits to re-assemble it all?

Thanks again,

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Look at the small rectangular box that's attached to the side of the fuel
 distributor. It contains a reed valve  the reed may be cracked.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of E M
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:55 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

 I last check the 02 with a dwell meter off the test terminal on the inside
 fender about a month ago.  At that time, it was fine.  I am somewhat
 familiar with a CIS system, not an expert, but have kind of a working
 knowledge of most of the systems.  Not sure about the temp sensor though,
 as
 I don't think the CIS on my old 911SC has one, but I could be
 wrong??  Where
 would I look for and test the temp sensor on my car?  It's a 1988 W124
 with
 the 3litre gas engine.  I don't think my car has the system whereby you
 can
 pull any codes, but again, I could be wrong.

 Thanks again for your help.  If I can't figure it out, I can always take
 it
 out into a field and shoot it!  hee hee

 Ed
 300E...the high idle isn't the problem, is all the slow traffic. lol  :-)

 On 19/08/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  When is the last time you tested your O2 sensor, in a KE car the O2
  sensor is the most important input when the car is at operating range.
  If it is telling the system that the exhaust is lean then the FI
  computer will try and dump more fuel into the motor.
  However if this is an intermittent problem I would be looking at temp
  sensor going wonky, which will tell the idle adjustment motor to up the
  amount of air going into the motor.
  Air leak? Doubtful as it would be a constant thing and a vacuum tube
  leaking (which can be intermittent) wouldn't cause this amount of high
  idle. Just to explain this a bit more, in order to have a high smooth
  idle of 1700-2000 you need both more air and fuel, just having one will
  make the car run like a dog. So if you have an air leak on the other
  side of the air flow sensor plate then you will not have more fuel going
  into the engine and as such will have a lean mixture (lots of air but
  not enough fuel).
  How familiar are you with the CIS/E system? What you really wanna do is
  to reproduce the problem on demand by making the motor think it is cold
  when in fact it is at operating temp. If by doing this it goes up to the
  high idle you mentioned, then you know which circuit is being naughty.
  Also the later KE (KE3(?)) systems have a primitive fault code readout
  which is easy to do with the right equipment.
  Hopefully others will stop talking about you know what and help you out
  with your real MB problem.
  BTW is it a E300 or 300E, they are two very different cars with very
  different FI systems.
 
  E M wrote:
   Hi everyone,
  
   Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an
 hour,
  with
   a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in end
 of
   trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between 1700-2000
  rpm.
   At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like it
  wanted
   to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes to
   prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect some
 kind
  of
   an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like a
 WUR
   stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to
 cool
  for
   an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about
 about
   75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a
 normal
   range.
  
   Any thoughts??
   Thanks in advance.
  
   Ed
   300E
  
 
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To 

Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
If its bad then the only solution is a replacement. The reed vibrates,
modifying the fuel distributor lower chamber, adjusting your fuel
mixture.

Thanks, Tom
256-656-1924

-Original Message-
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: 8/19/07 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

Hi Tom,
How easy it is to take apart?  I ask this without even having looked at
it
yet.  Will I be required to buy any new bits to re-assemble it all?

Thanks again,

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Look at the small rectangular box that's attached to the side of the
fuel
 distributor. It contains a reed valve  the reed may be cracked.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of E M
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 5:55 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] high E300 gasser idle

 I last check the 02 with a dwell meter off the test terminal on the
inside
 fender about a month ago.  At that time, it was fine.  I am somewhat
 familiar with a CIS system, not an expert, but have kind of a working
 knowledge of most of the systems.  Not sure about the temp sensor
though,
 as
 I don't think the CIS on my old 911SC has one, but I could be
 wrong??  Where
 would I look for and test the temp sensor on my car?  It's a 1988 W124
 with
 the 3litre gas engine.  I don't think my car has the system whereby
you
 can
 pull any codes, but again, I could be wrong.

 Thanks again for your help.  If I can't figure it out, I can always
take
 it
 out into a field and shoot it!  hee hee

 Ed
 300E...the high idle isn't the problem, is all the slow traffic. lol
:-)

 On 19/08/07, Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  When is the last time you tested your O2 sensor, in a KE car the O2
  sensor is the most important input when the car is at operating
range.
  If it is telling the system that the exhaust is lean then the FI
  computer will try and dump more fuel into the motor.
  However if this is an intermittent problem I would be looking at
temp
  sensor going wonky, which will tell the idle adjustment motor to up
the
  amount of air going into the motor.
  Air leak? Doubtful as it would be a constant thing and a vacuum tube
  leaking (which can be intermittent) wouldn't cause this amount of
high
  idle. Just to explain this a bit more, in order to have a high
smooth
  idle of 1700-2000 you need both more air and fuel, just having one
will
  make the car run like a dog. So if you have an air leak on the other
  side of the air flow sensor plate then you will not have more fuel
going
  into the engine and as such will have a lean mixture (lots of air
but
  not enough fuel).
  How familiar are you with the CIS/E system? What you really wanna do
is
  to reproduce the problem on demand by making the motor think it is
cold
  when in fact it is at operating temp. If by doing this it goes up to
the
  high idle you mentioned, then you know which circuit is being
naughty.
  Also the later KE (KE3(?)) systems have a primitive fault code
readout
  which is easy to do with the right equipment.
  Hopefully others will stop talking about you know what and help you
out
  with your real MB problem.
  BTW is it a E300 or 300E, they are two very different cars with very
  different FI systems.
 
  E M wrote:
   Hi everyone,
  
   Was out yesterday and got caught in traffic.  Drove from about an
 hour,
  with
   a lot of bumper to bumper traffic.  When I came to a stop, as in
end
 of
   trip, and put the car into Park, the idle climbed to between
1700-2000
  rpm.
   At stop in traffic, it would idle about 1000 rpm, but it felt like
it
  wanted
   to pull away, as in, required a little more pressure on the brakes
to
   prevent becoming too friendly with the car infront.  I suspect
some
 kind
  of
   an air leak, but not sure just where to look.  Kind of feels like
a
 WUR
   stick up and keeping the idel high, but once the car is allowed to
 cool
  for
   an hour or so, the idle seems to be fine again.  Oh, the day about
 about
   75-80F with little humidity.  Car also starts fine and idles in a
 normal
   range.
  
   Any thoughts??
   Thanks in advance.
  
   Ed
   300E
  
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Free Mac

2007-08-19 Thread Ed Booher
On 8/19/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 - Can an ordinary IDE DVD-ROM drive be substituted for the CD-RW?
   If so, how does one get the old drive out and the new one in?


Yes  The plastic front with the CD door and possibly a Zip floppy
slot is itself a door. Once you open the side panel there are two
*very breakable* tabs that you push to lever the door out of the
front. The Optical drive and Zip come out as a one piece bracket.
After that it's as easy as any other PC

 - Can a second disk be added (the one in there looks like an IDE drive)?


The G4 can handle up to 4 IDE disks from the factory. 1 is your
optical drive and if installed 2 is your Zip. That leaves 3 and 4 for
hard drives. However, the bracket system at the bottom of the case
should, itself, hold a total of 4 hard drives, so if you add a PCI IDE
controller you can add the other drives. (Or a PCI SATA controller and
replace all drives with SATA models)

 - Can an ordinary flat panel display be hooked up to the non-standard
   DVI connector on the graphics card? If so, how?


This is not a DVI connector, it is an ADC connector. Either replace
the video card with a PowerPC ROM'd AGP card or locate an old Dr.
Botts ADC to DVI adapter.

 - How much memory can be used?


1.5 GB if it's the model of G4 I think it is.

 - Can the latest OS be loaded on the computer once it has a DVD-capable
   drive?


Yes, and it will also run Leopard when it is released in October.
Though 10.5 (Leopard) may be the last OS revision to include G4
support.


 Thanks,


 Craig

No problem,

Ed

-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

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[MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread Marshall Field
I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The Kalifornia
version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.  What I am looking
for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
filters.

Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec.  The
seals, the hoses and pipes, everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the oil
analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I particularly
dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,

I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
miles.  My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I can
not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
and needs replacing.

I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But I have never seen such a
set up for a MB.  I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing

So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

Marshall in Phoenix
Three (3) 300D's
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
blow them out with compressed air.

Marshall Field wrote:
 I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The Kalifornia
 version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.  What I am looking
 for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
 filters.
 
 Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec.  The
 seals, the hoses and pipes, everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the oil
 analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I particularly
 dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,
 
 I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
 can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
 miles.  My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I can
 not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
 and needs replacing.
 
 I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
 washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But I have never seen such a
 set up for a MB.  I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
 entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing
 
 So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.
 
 Marshall in Phoenix
 Three (3) 300D's
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-- 
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  94 E420, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 87 300TD, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on steel 
or alloy road wheels.

My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them 
to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.   

No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder is 
that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel, or hub.

Engineered like no other car 

- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels


Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when you 
torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things can 
kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never leave the car 
unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed now and it 
allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.  Just have to 
do the other three now.

Ed
300E


On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
Yu have another problem - the wheel should sit flush with the hub with no
interference. With the last one of these I had, the lip on the inside of the
wheel was damaged.

Adding anti-seize is just working around the issue. 

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:12 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about 
everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or
adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great
inventions of the age of old cars.

Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind 
up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem
then would be ?


Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

E M  [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After 
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on 
the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the 
rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ed
300E






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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
I'm glad to hear you are not that brave.  Some of the listers are.
- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED];Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: 8/19/2007 5:03:42 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels


Hee hee, I should have proof read that Robert.  I drove the car, and then 
allowed it to heat sink before before trying the bolts again!!! :-)  Not even 
Im brave (stupid) enough to drive the car around withou any bolts holding on 
the wheels!!! ha ha ha.  

Ed
300E


On 19/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about
everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or 
adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great
inventions of the age of old cars.

Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind
up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem 
then would be ?


Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

E M [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in 
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing 
it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on
the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was 
on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on 
lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in 
the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ed
300E






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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread Warren561
Where are you buying the filters?  BAP Import Parts?

When I had my 240D (123.123), I'd change the air filter after about 5000 
miles.  Usually a few smacks on the ground caused enough debris to 
fall out that I never felt bad about putting it back in.

-Warren

Marshall Field wrote:
 I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The Kalifornia
 version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.  What I am looking
 for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
 filters.
 
 Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec.  The
 seals, the hoses and pipes, everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the oil
 analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I particularly
 dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,
 
 I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
 can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
 miles.  My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I can
 not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
 and needs replacing.
 
 I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
 washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But I have never seen such a
 set up for a MB.  I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
 entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing
 
 So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.
 
 Marshall in Phoenix
 Three (3) 300D's
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 


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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
I don't think he was serious about the 250 ft lb, just stressing the fact
that they were way over-torqued.

That's OK, I was an Engineer once but now I'm a Recovering Engineer.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:09 PM
To: E M; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on steel

or alloy road wheels.

My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them 
to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.   

No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder is 
that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel, or
hub.

Engineered like no other car 

- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels


Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when you
torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things can
kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never leave the
car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed now
and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
Just have to do the other three now.

Ed
300E


On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
Yu have another problem - the wheel should sit flush with the hub with no
interference. With the last one of these I had, the lip on the inside of the
wheel was damaged.

Adding anti-seize is just working around the issue. 

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:12 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about 
everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or
adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great
inventions of the age of old cars.

Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind 
up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem
then would be ?


Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

E M  [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the bolts
off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After 
finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on 
the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the 
rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Ed
300E






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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread E M
I've read about 85 f/lbs dry.  When I had to put a 3 foot length of pipe on
the wrench to get enough torque on it to remove them, I couldn't believe,
even with an air gun, some idiot could get them on that tight!  While
cheaning the inside of the rim, once off, it gave me a chance to see just
what a great piece of engineer that wheel is.  It looks pretty plain on the
outside, but a lot of thougth went into that wheel.  I think they spent more
money engineering the clip ring for the benz star in the centre, than most
companies spend in R  D for the whole front corner suspension. :-)

Ed
300E
On 19/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on
 steel
 or alloy road wheels.

 My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them
 to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.

 No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder
 is
 that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel,
 or hub.

 Engineered like no other car

 - Original Message -

 *From:* E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 *To: *Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com *Cc: *
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 *Sent:* 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when
 you torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things
 can kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never leave
 the car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed
 now and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
 Just have to do the other three now.

 Ed
 300E


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
You are replacing your filter way too soon at 2,500 miles, I believe that
35,000 miles is more the norm.

If you really want to get scientific about when then you need to install a
vacuum gauge with the pickup through the lid of your air cleaner housing.
You'll notice some drop even with a new filter but the drop will become more
pronounced as the filter plugs up. I believe you'll be surprised at how
un-plugged a dirty looking filter is.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Marshall Field
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 9:56 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The Kalifornia
version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.  What I am looking
for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
filters.

Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec.  The
seals, the hoses and pipes, everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the oil
analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I particularly
dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,

I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
miles.  My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I can
not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
and needs replacing.

I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But I have never seen such a
set up for a MB.  I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing

So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

Marshall in Phoenix
Three (3) 300D's
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Just beat it on something, or blow it out with air.
If you want to get fancy, just pull into one of the few zillion offroad 
specialty places in Phoenix  and they shouldn't have any trouble fitting 
your filter with a washable pre filter.

--Robert

Marshall Field wrote:
 I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The Kalifornia
 version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.  What I am looking
 for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
 filters.

 Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec.  The
 seals, the hoses and pipes, everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the oil
 analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I particularly
 dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,

 I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
 can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
 miles.  My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I can
 not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
 and needs replacing.

 I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
 washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But I have never seen such a
 set up for a MB.  I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
 entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing

 So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

 Marshall in Phoenix
 Three (3) 300D's
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


   


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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
A lot of people don't realize that a torqued fastener takes more torque to
remove than it took to tighten. I've had to remove lug bolts that I've
tightened myself to 85 lb ft with a 4' pipe. The impact wrench would not
make them budge.

This happened recently on my 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I was doing the front
brakes and none of the lug nuts on the right, front wheel would budge. And I
was the last one with the wheels off - I rotated the tires front to back.
Obviously something was going on because none of the lug nuts would budge
but it wasn't the way they were tightened.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

I've read about 85 f/lbs dry.  When I had to put a 3 foot length of pipe on
the wrench to get enough torque on it to remove them, I couldn't believe,
even with an air gun, some idiot could get them on that tight!  While
cheaning the inside of the rim, once off, it gave me a chance to see just
what a great piece of engineer that wheel is.  It looks pretty plain on the
outside, but a lot of thougth went into that wheel.  I think they spent more
money engineering the clip ring for the benz star in the centre, than most
companies spend in R  D for the whole front corner suspension. :-)

Ed
300E
On 19/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on
 steel
 or alloy road wheels.

 My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them
 to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.

 No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder
 is
 that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel,
 or hub.

 Engineered like no other car

 - Original Message -

 *From:* E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 *To: *Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com *Cc: *
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 *Sent:* 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when
 you torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two
things
 can kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never
leave
 the car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed
 now and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing
too.
 Just have to do the other three now.

 Ed
 300E


___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread E M
To be honest, with a 3 foot length of pipe, I had to jerk the pipe to
break them lose.  Even after allowing them to heat sink, they were by far
the tightest lugbolts I have ever felt.  I really was worried that the wheel
was damaged, but it seems ok, no visable hairline cracks anyway.

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I don't think he was serious about the 250 ft lb, just stressing the fact
 that they were way over-torqued.

 That's OK, I was an Engineer once but now I'm a Recovering Engineer.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:09 PM
 To: E M; mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on
 steel

 or alloy road wheels.

 My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them
 to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.

 No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder
 is
 that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel,
 or
 hub.

 Engineered like no other car

 - Original Message -
 From: E M
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels


 Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when
 you
 torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things
 can
 kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never leave
 the
 car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed now
 and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
 Just have to do the other three now.

 Ed
 300E


 On 19/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Yu have another problem - the wheel should sit flush with the hub with no
 interference. With the last one of these I had, the lip on the inside of
 the
 wheel was damaged.

 Adding anti-seize is just working around the issue.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 4:12 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
 loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.

 How could anti sieze hurt?  Use it.  I use it on just about
 everything unless the manufacturer specifies a sealer or
 adhesive on the bolt or joint.  Anti sieze is one of the great
 inventions of the age of old cars.

 Don't put it on too thick, or it will run radially and could wind
 up splattered on the brake dust inside the rim.  And the problem
 then would be ?


 Sun, 19 Aug 2007 13:25:08 -0400
 Subject: [MBZ] Stuck wheel!

 E M  [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote

 Took one of the wheels on the front of the W124 the other day. The guy in
 shop had it on SO tight, I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get the
 bolts
 off!!! Once the bolts were off, the wheel was stuck to the hub. AH! After
 finally getting it off, but driving it, using the brakes hard and allowing
 it to heat sink a little, oh yeah, plus some pounding on the tires with a
 hammer against a piece of wood, it came off. There was some light rust on
 the hub. I cleaned it off with steelwoo, and also the big of rust that was
 on the aluminum rim. No, the rim didn't rust, hee hee, but the rim was on
 so tight, the rust from the hub was imbedded in the rim!!

 So, the question, I know we recently had a chat about anti-stick paste on
 lug bolts, but what are the thoughts about some on the back of the rim,
 where it meets the hub, or more accuratly, I guess it's the face of the
 rotor? I do this with other cars with steel rims, but haven't do some in
 the past with aluminum rims. Any thoughts?

 Thanks,
 Ed
 300E






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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Funny thing is, I had the wheel on the other side off about 2 weeks ago just
to take a quick look at the pads.  The bolts on that side felt over tight
too, but nothing like the other side, and the rim came right off without any
trouble.

Maybe I should upgrade to a set of F1 rims with a single centre lock nut.
:-)  Save a lot of trouble. lol

Ed
300E

On 20/08/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A lot of people don't realize that a torqued fastener takes more torque to
 remove than it took to tighten. I've had to remove lug bolts that I've
 tightened myself to 85 lb ft with a 4' pipe. The impact wrench would not
 make them budge.

 This happened recently on my 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I was doing the front
 brakes and none of the lug nuts on the right, front wheel would budge. And
 I
 was the last one with the wheels off - I rotated the tires front to back.
 Obviously something was going on because none of the lug nuts would budge
 but it wasn't the way they were tightened.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of E M
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:57 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 I've read about 85 f/lbs dry.  When I had to put a 3 foot length of pipe
 on
 the wrench to get enough torque on it to remove them, I couldn't believe,
 even with an air gun, some idiot could get them on that tight!  While
 cheaning the inside of the rim, once off, it gave me a chance to see just
 what a great piece of engineer that wheel is.  It looks pretty plain on
 the
 outside, but a lot of thougth went into that wheel.  I think they spent
 more
 money engineering the clip ring for the benz star in the centre, than most
 companies spend in R  D for the whole front corner suspension. :-)

 Ed
 300E
 On 19/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on
  steel
  or alloy road wheels.
 
  My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them
  to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.
 
  No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder
  is
  that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel,
  or hub.
 
  Engineered like no other car
 
  - Original Message -
 
  *From:* E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  *To: *Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com *Cc: *
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  *Sent:* 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM
  *Subject:* Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 
  Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when
  you torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two
 things
  can kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never
 leave
  the car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All
 fixed
  now and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing
 too.
  Just have to do the other three now.
 
  Ed
  300E
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Free Mac

2007-08-19 Thread E M
Back when I was using Macs, there was a site called, lowendmac or
something to that effect.  I think they had a list for each model, as well a
stuff for sale page.  It was a good place to get advise, or pick up some
cheap parts for a project.  Not sure if they're still around, but there were
a lot of helpful guys on it, must like this list.

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On 8/19/07, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  - Can an ordinary IDE DVD-ROM drive be substituted for the CD-RW?
If so, how does one get the old drive out and the new one in?
 

 Yes  The plastic front with the CD door and possibly a Zip floppy
 slot is itself a door. Once you open the side panel there are two
 *very breakable* tabs that you push to lever the door out of the
 front. The Optical drive and Zip come out as a one piece bracket.
 After that it's as easy as any other PC

  - Can a second disk be added (the one in there looks like an IDE drive)?
 

 The G4 can handle up to 4 IDE disks from the factory. 1 is your
 optical drive and if installed 2 is your Zip. That leaves 3 and 4 for
 hard drives. However, the bracket system at the bottom of the case
 should, itself, hold a total of 4 hard drives, so if you add a PCI IDE
 controller you can add the other drives. (Or a PCI SATA controller and
 replace all drives with SATA models)

  - Can an ordinary flat panel display be hooked up to the non-standard
DVI connector on the graphics card? If so, how?
 

 This is not a DVI connector, it is an ADC connector. Either replace
 the video card with a PowerPC ROM'd AGP card or locate an old Dr.
 Botts ADC to DVI adapter.

  - How much memory can be used?
 

 1.5 GB if it's the model of G4 I think it is.

  - Can the latest OS be loaded on the computer once it has a DVD-capable
drive?
 

 Yes, and it will also run Leopard when it is released in October.
 Though 10.5 (Leopard) may be the last OS revision to include G4
 support.

 
  Thanks,
 
 
  Craig

 No problem,

 Ed

 --
 Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

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Re: [MBZ] Was: RAMBO ... Now: Rambo goes fishing

2007-08-19 Thread archer
True.  Always wondered why PETA hasn't gone after fishermen.  If we put a 
carrot on a hook, snagged a bunny rabbit in the lip, reeled him in, and held 
him under water until he drowned; PETA would be knocking on our door in 
short order.
Years ago the Norwegians or Swedes found that if they electrocuted fish as 
soon as they were caught the fish tasted better.  They discovered that when 
fish get injured they start producing cadaverines which make other fish that 
might want to eat them think they are dead. 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadaverine
As the fish die they produce more and more cadaverines.  Electrocution stops 
or slows down the process.

Always wanted to try that with the fish we catch here in Florida.  Maybe put 
electrodes at each end of a plastic cooler and rig up a circuit that will 
give a newly caught fish the right amount of voltage/amperage that will put 
it out of its misery.  Some species of fish tend to develop a bad taste. 
Letting the fish die slowly might be the cause.
-
- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sure as long as it is dynamite fishing. If it don't go bang it ain't no 
 fun.
--
 Tom Hargrave wrote:
 How about discussing fishing? This should be a little more palletable
 subject for the anti-handgun folks.

 You know, the act of presenting a tasty bit of food to an unsuspect
 fish, only to snag sensitive mouth parts with a barbed hook, causing
 unimaginable amounts of pain, followed by dragging the fish out of the
 water by his hooked mouth?

 And finally, we add insult to injury by sliding the fish onto a nylon
 line or placing him in a cooler of ice water, allowing him to die a slow
 death. After all, we want him to be fresh when we get him home and
 scale him alive.

 Thanks, Tom
 256-656-1924


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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/960 - Release Date: 8/18/2007 
 3:48 PM

 


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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
Also, we should not forget that the torque required to break a bolt 
loose may be only vaguely unrelated to the torque to which it was 
tightened.  Corrosion, heat, and all that.
- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: 8/19/2007 10:56:51 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels


I've read about 85 f/lbs dry.  When I had to put a 3 foot length of pipe on the 
wrench to get enough torque on it to remove them, I couldn't believe, even with 
an air gun, some idiot could get them on that tight!  While cheaning the inside 
of the rim, once off, it gave me a chance to see just what a great piece of 
engineer that wheel is.  It looks pretty plain on the outside, but a lot of 
thougth went into that wheel.  I think they spent more money engineering the 
clip ring for the benz star in the centre, than most companies spend in R  D 
for the whole front corner suspension. :-)

Ed
300E

On 19/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on steel 
or alloy road wheels.

My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them 
to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.   

No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder is 
that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel, or hub.

Engineered like no other car 

- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels 


Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when you 
torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things can 
kind of stick themselves together! :-)  ( Note to me: never never leave the car 
unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!)  All fixed now and it 
allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.  Just have to 
do the other three now.

Ed
300E
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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aliminum wheels; tightening torque; meaning of words

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
The difference between the word that is correct and the word that 
is almost correct is the difference between lightning and lightning 
bugs. - attributed to Winston Churchill.

Maybe he merely meant the spherical collar screws were tighter 
than he had ever seen or imagined.  I can buy that. They must have 
been extremely tight.  I suspect something would break before 
250 ft lb tightening torque, but do not know.  

Perhaps someone does know the breaking torque for 
M12 x 1.5 spherical collar screws holding on steel or alumininum 
wheels. If so, you know who you are. Speak up, please.  

I promise to not ask how you know.

When discussing technical things and using numbers to 
communicate, one should be careful to say as near to exactly 
what one means as one can, to avoid confusion.  

If one is not sure of a technical fact, it does not mean one is 
a bad person or even seriously disabled, but one should 
say so.  Words do have meanings. 

That is the engineering position.  Do recovering engineers see 
it a whole lot differently?  If so, why?  Please elaborate.   

Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote 
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 22:52:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List'
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
I don't think he was serious about the 250 ft lb, just stressing the fact
that they were way over-torqued.
 
That's OK, I was an Engineer once but now I'm a Recovering Engineer.
 
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:09 PM
To: E M; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 
250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on steel
 
or alloy road wheels.
 
My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them 
to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion. 
 
No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder is 
that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel, or
hub.
 
Engineered like no other car 
 
- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 
 
Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when you
torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things can
kind of stick themselves together! :-) ( Note to me: never never leave the
car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!) All fixed now
and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
Just have to do the other three now.
 
Ed
300E






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Re: [MBZ] Air filters and dust

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Bigham
Can you pull a leg of panty hose over the housing for a pre filter?
Use the No Nonsense $2 kind from Wal Mart, which come in sizes.
Hold on with zip tie if appropriate.

That's an old dirt track racer's trick.  Keeps the big stuff out for sure, 
and catches and holds lots of dust.  Cheap and effective. 

You can also clean the paper filter elements by gently tapping them 
out.  Compressed air may blow a hole in the element.  

Marshall Field wrote:

 I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's. The Kalifornia
 version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts. What I am looking
 for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
 filters.
 
 Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec. The
 seals, the hoses and pipes, everything. All are tight. Silica on the oil
 analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight. And I
particularly
 dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,
 
 I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways. Problem is that I
 can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter. Usually less, much less
 miles. My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight. If I can
 not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
 and needs replacing.
 
 I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
 washable sock over the main paper air filter. But I have never seen such a
 set up for a MB. I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
 entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing
 
 So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.
 
 Marshall in Phoenix
 Three (3) 300D's
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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aliminum wheels; tightening torque; meaning of words

2007-08-19 Thread Tom Hargrave
I agree 100% about your Words do have meaning statement and I agree that
in the Engineering world, communication is very literal indeed. But I have
learned that non-engineers communicate in more abstract, often making
statements that have implied meaning. By Recovering Engineer I mean I've
learned to be less literal with my conversations in certain circles.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 12:10 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aliminum wheels; tightening torque;meaning
of words

The difference between the word that is correct and the word that 
is almost correct is the difference between lightning and lightning 
bugs. - attributed to Winston Churchill.

Maybe he merely meant the spherical collar screws were tighter 
than he had ever seen or imagined.  I can buy that. They must have 
been extremely tight.  I suspect something would break before 
250 ft lb tightening torque, but do not know.  

Perhaps someone does know the breaking torque for 
M12 x 1.5 spherical collar screws holding on steel or alumininum 
wheels. If so, you know who you are. Speak up, please.  

I promise to not ask how you know.

When discussing technical things and using numbers to 
communicate, one should be careful to say as near to exactly 
what one means as one can, to avoid confusion.  

If one is not sure of a technical fact, it does not mean one is 
a bad person or even seriously disabled, but one should 
say so.  Words do have meanings. 

That is the engineering position.  Do recovering engineers see 
it a whole lot differently?  If so, why?  Please elaborate.   

Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote 
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 22:52:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List'
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
I don't think he was serious about the 250 ft lb, just stressing the fact
that they were way over-torqued.
 
That's OK, I was an Engineer once but now I'm a Recovering Engineer.
 
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:09 PM
To: E M; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 
250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on steel
 
or alloy road wheels.
 
My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them 
to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion. 
 
No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder is 
that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel, or
hub.
 
Engineered like no other car 
 
- Original Message - 
From: E M 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 
 
Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when you
torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things can
kind of stick themselves together! :-) ( Note to me: never never leave the
car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!) All fixed now
and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
Just have to do the other three now.
 
Ed
300E






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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aliminum wheels; tightening torque; meaning of words

2007-08-19 Thread E M
No, I agree with your point Robert.  Torque figures are very accurate for a
reason, and I do my best to follow them and get as close to them as possible
at all times.  However, in my original post, I don't have a problem throwing
out a number like 250, as I've felt 200 before and this felt like more.
Reason I don't have a problem throwing out a nubmer like 250 is, I don't
really expect anyone to read it and think, oh, it can't take that, and to
prove it, I'll go out now and torque my wheels to 250.  Now, if asked how
tight to torque a lugnut, I would never say, oh, about 100 f/lbs., give or
take.  However, in the original context of my post, I think the use of 250
was ok. :-)

Ed
300E

On 20/08/07, Robert Bigham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The difference between the word that is correct and the word that
 is almost correct is the difference between lightning and lightning
 bugs. - attributed to Winston Churchill.

 Maybe he merely meant the spherical collar screws were tighter
 than he had ever seen or imagined.  I can buy that. They must have
 been extremely tight.  I suspect something would break before
 250 ft lb tightening torque, but do not know.

 Perhaps someone does know the breaking torque for
 M12 x 1.5 spherical collar screws holding on steel or alumininum
 wheels. If so, you know who you are. Speak up, please.

 I promise to not ask how you know.

 When discussing technical things and using numbers to
 communicate, one should be careful to say as near to exactly
 what one means as one can, to avoid confusion.

 If one is not sure of a technical fact, it does not mean one is
 a bad person or even seriously disabled, but one should
 say so.  Words do have meanings.

 That is the engineering position.  Do recovering engineers see
 it a whole lot differently?  If so, why?  Please elaborate.

 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 22:52:06 -0500
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], 'Mercedes Discussion List'
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 I don't think he was serious about the 250 ft lb, just stressing the fact
 that they were way over-torqued.

 That's OK, I was an Engineer once but now I'm a Recovering Engineer.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:09 PM
 To: E M; mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

 250 ft lb is way too much torque on spherical collar screws holding on
 steel

 or alloy road wheels.

 My Daimler Benz Passenger Car Technical Data book says tighten them
 to 110 NM, equal roughly to 81 ft lb if I didn't botch the conversion.

 No wonder they are hard to get off when torqued to 250 ft lb. The wonder
 is
 that they survive being so overtightened without damage to screw, wheel,
 or
 hub.

 Engineered like no other car

 - Original Message -
 From: E M
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 8/19/2007 5:08:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels


 Oh, the wheel didn't have a problem sitting flush with the hub, but when
 you
 torque the bolts to about 250 or more f/lbs, it's amazing how two things
 can
 kind of stick themselves together! :-) ( Note to me: never never leave the
 car unattended at the garage!! I should know this by now!) All fixed now
 and it allowed me to give the inside of the wheel a good detailing too.
 Just have to do the other three now.

 Ed
 300E






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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread E M
I'm kind of curious now.  How do the California filters differ from those in
the rest of the US or North America?

Ed
300E

On 20/08/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 In a message dated 8/19/2007 7:56:50 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I am  going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The  Kalifornia
 version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.   What I am
 looking
 for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service  life out of the air
 filters.

 Yes, all the usual stuff has been  looked at and brought up to spec.  The
 seals, the hoses and pipes,  everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the
 oil
 analysis is in the  cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I
 particularly
 dislike any  air filter with the K and N name on it.,

 I live in Phoenix, drive  mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
 can get hardly 2500  miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
 miles.  My  criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I
 can
 not  see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is
 plugged
 and  needs replacing.

 I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator  filters that had a
 washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But  I have never seen such
 a
 set up for a MB.  I am sure that something  can be rigged, but that would
 entail a smaller diameter, non standard air  filter for the housing

 So, any ideas or help is greatly  appreciated.

 Marshall in Phoenix



 Marshall,

 I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on paved roads, etc and get about  30,000
 miles out of my air filters, sometimes tapping them on the cement if I
 am  in
 there for other reasons, like replacing the rubber housing
 mounts.  A  dirty
 filter is more efficient at removing smaller particles than a
 clean  filter.

 Do your filters turn black, as in excessive blowby, or just
 look  dirty?  If
 black, you may be over filling your crankcase with oil.  I  think most of
 us
 agree that you should never fill oil in to the full mark on the  dipstick,
 leave it 1/2 to 1 quart below full.

 Regards,

 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 267 K miles
 98 ML 320, 151 K  miles




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