[MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Zoltan Finks
'87 190D 2.5 Non-turbo

1.In order to drain the coolant via the petcock (I'll never pass up a chance
to use that word) does one have to remove the plastic body piece that runs
below the bumper? I don't see a way to access it otherwise. On this note,
why would anyone not just drain the coolant by unhooking the lower radiator
hose at the radiator?
2. On the above mentioned body panel, I noticed a sticker that is about two
inches long and 1/3 inch wide. On it is a repeating pattern of little blue
MB stars and in the center is a rectangle that looks like it may have once
contained a number or something. Does this indicate that this panel is a
replacement and not original?

3. Quickest way to disable the vacuum motor that runs every time I operate
the door locks? It's useless. Pull a fuse or unplug the motor?

4. What is the rod that runs over the valve cover? The one that is actuated
by the throttle? It attaches to something on the passenger side of the valve
cover. What is that unit? The rod is always popped off every time I open the
hood and look.

5. This question applies to not only the 201: The temperature gauge: Is it
linear in its reading? In other words, can one assume that half way between
60 and 80 is 70? And half way between 80 and zero is 40, etc.? Or is it the
case that, for instance, the lower portion of the needle's range covers a
greater range of temperatures? What is the mark below 80? What's the deal
with all this?

6. If there is a number written in crayon on the rear of the differential
ham, does this indicate that it came from a junkyard? The seller explained
this away saying that it indicates when it was last filled.

7. I have a sticker in the cup holder of the glove box that, if I recall,
says that the SRS airbag has been replaced. I suppose the only reason this
would happen is that the car has been in an accident?

Thanks,
Brian
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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 
 6. If there is a number written in crayon on the rear of the differential
 ham, does this indicate that it came from a junkyard? The seller explained
 this away saying that it indicates when it was last filled.

I've never heard of a mechanic writing lube change info on the diff.
Yellow crayon is salvage yard ID. 
 
 7. I have a sticker in the cup holder of the glove box that, if I recall,
 says that the SRS airbag has been replaced. I suppose the only reason this
 would happen is that the car has been in an accident?

My W201s have stickers in the glove box which I thought indicated the
date the bag was replaced, but I later realized it was the ten year
expiration date of the original bag, which is almost surely still
in my cars. I think the date was later extended to 15 or 20 years,
but at any rate my bags are expired now and I'm not paying for new
ones.

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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey
 '87 190D 2.5 Non-turbo

One year newer than mine!

 1.In order to drain the coolant via the petcock (I'll never pass up a 
 chance
 to use that word) does one have to remove the plastic body piece that 
 runs
 below the bumper? I don't see a way to access it otherwise. On this 
 note,
 why would anyone not just drain the coolant by unhooking the lower 
 radiator
 hose at the radiator?

The petcock is easier.  The access panel (for the tow hook, primarily)
pops out, or perhaps pivots out is a better term.  Mine is gone, but
it's a common feature of the plastic-bumpered cars.  Also, if your
car still has the under-car belly pans (2) the petcock is considerably
easier than removing that to get to the hoses.  (Same for the oil
drain, for that matter, for which an oil sucker is just the ticket.)

 2. On the above mentioned body panel, I noticed a sticker that is 
 about two
 inches long and 1/3 inch wide. On it is a repeating pattern of little 
 blue
 MB stars and in the center is a rectangle that looks like it may have 
 once
 contained a number or something. Does this indicate that this panel is 
 a
 replacement and not original?

Hard to say.  Condition usually tells you that.

 3. Quickest way to disable the vacuum motor that runs every time I 
 operate
 the door locks? It's useless. Pull a fuse or unplug the motor?

Does your central locking not work?  Unplug the motor, it's
under the rear seat.  Or, preferably, fix the locking system.
For starters look in the trunk, the trunk lock element seems
to be the most likely to die for some reason.  Cap off sections
and see what starts working again.

 4. What is the rod that runs over the valve cover? The one that is 
 actuated
 by the throttle? It attaches to something on the passenger side of the 
 valve
 cover. What is that unit? The rod is always popped off every time I 
 open the
 hood and look.

Which one?  Cruise control?  Or the lever that goes to the AT?.

 5. This question applies to not only the 201: The temperature gauge: 
 Is it
 linear in its reading? In other words, can one assume that half way 
 between
 60 and 80 is 70? And half way between 80 and zero is 40, etc.? Or is 
 it the
 case that, for instance, the lower portion of the needle's range 
 covers a
 greater range of temperatures? What is the mark below 80? What's the 
 deal
 with all this?

It's semi-linear.  40, 80, and 120 are labeled, 60 and 100 get lines.

 6. If there is a number written in crayon on the rear of the 
 differential
 ham, does this indicate that it came from a junkyard? The seller 
 explained
 this away saying that it indicates when it was last filled.

Junkyard!

 7. I have a sticker in the cup holder of the glove box that, if I 
 recall,
 says that the SRS airbag has been replaced. I suppose the only reason 
 this
 would happen is that the car has been in an accident?

Sure looks like that, don't it?  It's the expiration date for
the air bags.  Very misleading wording on that.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 7:37 AM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  '87 190D 2.5 Non-turbo

  One year newer than mine!


   1.In order to drain the coolant via the petcock (I'll never pass up a
   chance
   to use that word) does one have to remove the plastic body piece that
   runs
   below the bumper? I don't see a way to access it otherwise. On this
   note,
   why would anyone not just drain the coolant by unhooking the lower
   radiator
   hose at the radiator?

  The petcock is easier.

I'd add that unhooking a 20-year-old hose is a pain and likely to make
the hose leak.  (OTOH, if your hoses are original, maybe that's a good
excuse to change them while the system is dry.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 5:15 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  My W201s have stickers in the glove box which I thought indicated the
  date the bag was replaced, but I later realized it was the ten year
  expiration date of the original bag, which is almost surely still
  in my cars. I think the date was later extended to 15 or 20 years,
  but at any rate my bags are expired now and I'm not paying for new
  ones.

The story I've heard (from a couple of different indy mechanics) is
that when airbags first started to be installed in cars in the '80s,
the general belief was that they'd need to be replaced regularly
because the explosive couldn't be trusted to go off with the same
potency after X number of years.  When the replacement date rolled
around for the first few cars, M-B did some tests on some 10-year-old
airbags, and decided that they worked just fine and the expiration
date could safely be extended.  After another five years they checked
again with the same results.  At some point the powers that be decided
that airbags don't expire after all---they have an indefinite shelf
life.  The short version is, don't worry about it.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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[MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Frederick W Moir

Needs trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
  No Afililliation, not mine (Damm!)
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Dieselitis Maximus 


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Needs trans.
  http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html


Wow, that dark blue looks great with the 16 210 wheels.  Classy.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel price up again

2008-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
I paid $3.96/gal at an Exxon in upper Georgetown (D.C.) Saturday night.  I
purchased 2.5 gals for $9.92.

1983 300TD



On Sat, Mar 8, 2008 at 12:38 PM, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  and that represents a 12 percent increase in crude oil prices.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
 Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 8:48 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel price up again



 Craig McCluskey wrote:
 
   Have you noticed that the price of crude oil is on the rise?
 
  Yes, but not 11% in the last two weeks.

 I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think we're talking a rise from
 about 93 to 105 for 42 gallons.
 
  Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel price up again

2008-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
A station I pass on the way to work showed $3.79/gal for diesel and
$4.35/gal for B100 today, the highest I've seen yet around here
(Portland, OR).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
I bet that's not all it needs...

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 11:41 AM, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
   Needs trans.
   http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
 

 Wow, that dark blue looks great with the 16 210 wheels.  Classy.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley


Frederick W Moir wrote:
 
 Needs trans.
 http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html

If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread Frederick W Moir
Mitch, et al.
I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another 
car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next 
town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

  http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html

If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
I wonder if I should sell my 1983 (282 K miles) 300TD, which needs about
$1500 in rust repair, or should I fix it up and keep it.  I would like an 87
300TD if I could find a nice one that doesn't cost the earth.  I imagine I
could get between $1500 and $2K for my wagon as is.  Anybody willing to
impart some advice?

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 12:14 PM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Mitch, et al.
 I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another
 car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next
 town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA

   http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
 
 If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
 that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.


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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread John M McIntosh

On Mar 10, 2008, at 8:22 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

  After another five years they checked
 again with the same results.  At some point the powers that be decided
 that airbags don't expire after all---they have an indefinite shelf
 life.  The short version is, don't worry about it.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.


The long version is:

I had noted according to the sticker on the door pillar my airbag on  
my w124 has expired and the ones in my w140 are due to expire next  
year. In the past Mercedes has extended the life of the air bag so I  
asked Mercedes Benz canada for their official response on this.

They told me:

For W163,w168,r170,w203,w210,c215,w220 etc airbag life is lifetime.
For w124,w126,w129,w140,w201,w202 airbags require replacement after 15  
years,

Quote from their letter:
The consequence of not replacing a expired airbag is that its proper  
functioning CAN NOT be assured in the event a collision might occur...



John
1983 300TDt  368k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  172k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 180k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)



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[MBZ] O.T. PHX CL Touareg TDI

2008-03-10 Thread Robert Rentfro
Jesus, Mary and Joseph!

 

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601504218.html

 

Bob R.

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[MBZ] Fwd: AGM Batteries

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#AGM, or Absorbed Glass Mat 
Batteries
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorbed_Glass_Mat

Is this the technology behind Optima batteries?

From: Casey Hicks
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 3:33 PM
To: DTC DL Maintenance Breakdown Employees
Subject: AGM Batteries

AGM, or Absorbed Glass Mat Batteries

A newer type of sealed battery uses Absorbed Glass Mats, or AGM between the 
plates. This is a very fine fiber Boron-Silicate glass mat. These type of 
batteries have all the advantages of gelled, but can take much more abuse. We 
sell the Concorde (and Lifeline, made by Concorde) AGM batteries. These are 
also called starved electrolyte, as the mat is about 95% saturated rather 
than fully soaked. That also means that they will not leak acid even if broken.

AGM batteries have several advantages over both gelled and flooded, at about 
the same cost as gelled:

Since all the electrolyte (acid) is contained in the glass mats, they cannot 
spill, even if broken. This also means that since they are non-hazardous, the 
shipping costs are lower. In addition, since there is no liquid to freeze and 
expand, they are practically immune from freezing damage.

Nearly all AGM batteries are recombinant - what that means is that the Oxygen 
and Hydrogen recombine INSIDE the battery. These use gas phase transfer of 
oxygen to the negative plates to recombine them back into water while charging 
and prevent the loss of water through electrolysis. The recombining is 
typically 99+% efficient, so almost no water is lost.

The charging voltages are the same as for any standard battery - no need for 
any special adjustments or problems with incompatible chargers or charge 
controls. And, since the internal resistance is extremely low, there is almost 
no heating of the battery even under heavy charge and discharge currents. The 
Concorde (and most AGM) batteries have no charge or discharge current limits.

AGM's have a very low self-discharge - from 1% to 3% per month is usual. This 
means that they can sit in storage for much longer periods without charging 
than standard batteries. The Concorde batteries can be almost fully recharged 
(95% or better) even after 30 days of being totally discharged.

AGM's do not have any liquid to spill, and even under severe overcharge 
conditions hydrogen emission is far below the 4% max specified for aircraft and 
enclosed spaces. The plates in AGM's are tightly packed and rigidly mounted, 
and will withstand shock and vibration better than any standard battery.

Even with all the advantages listed above, there is still a place for the 
standard flooded deep cycle battery. AGM's will cost 2 to 3 times as much as 
flooded batteries of the same capacity. In many installations, where the 
batteries are set in an area where you don't have to worry about fumes or 
leakage, a standard or industrial deep cycle is a better economic choice. AGM 
batteries main advantages are no maintenance, completely sealed against fumes, 
Hydrogen, or leakage, non-spilling even if they are broken, and can survive 
most freezes. Not everyone needs these features.




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-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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[MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread Robert Rentfro
How's the price for this? Too much? What's correct?

 

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601589762.html

 

Bob R.

Third car shopping

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Re: [MBZ] O.T. PHX CL Touareg TDI

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
V10 diesel power.  Nice.

Luther

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:19:19 -0600, Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jesus, Mary and Joseph!


 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601504218.html


 Bob R.




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
John M McIntosh wrote:
 
 Quote from their letter:
 The consequence of not replacing a expired airbag is that its proper
 functioning CAN NOT be assured in the event a collision might occur...

In other words, don't sue us if your airbag misfires on your 20 year
old 201.

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Same old story Andrew. Rust never ends and putting $ into an old car is seldom 
profitable. If you are already
thinking you want something else then it is likely not a good plan to spend 
more on your existing car - unless you
are certain you will increase its value to where you will at least break even 
and hopefully even profit somewhat.

Randy who has the same issues with a 4Runner

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 11:22 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD


I wonder if I should sell my 1983 (282 K miles) 300TD, which needs about
$1500 in rust repair, or should I fix it up and keep it.  I would like an 87
300TD if I could find a nice one that doesn't cost the earth.  I imagine I
could get between $1500 and $2K for my wagon as is.  Anybody willing to
impart some advice?

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 12:14 PM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Mitch, et al.
 I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another
 car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next
 town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA

   http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
 
 If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
 that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.





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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Is the answer not going to depend almost solely on condition? How can one tell 
what is too much without seeing the
car?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robert Rentfro
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320


How's the price for this? Too much? What's correct?



http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601589762.html



Bob R.

Third car shopping

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[MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread George Larribeau
I will do this most likely this Saturday, waiting on the parts. I think last 
weeks bad weather killed delivery by last Friday. I picked up new motor mount 
to chassis bolts at the dealer last week (Tom at buymbparts could not get them 
but was kind enough to supply the part number). I have found a decent 12 point 
1-1/16 inch crowfoot-flair-nut that seems to fit the oil lines well enough to 
accomplish my task it is well made, decent finish and polish by Armstrong tool 
(USA). I paid about 20 bucks for it. If it works OK I will report on it.

I plan to unbolt the long bolts that fasten the engine-mounting carrier 'arm' 
casting to the motor mount on both sides of the car before I jack up the engine 
a little. At this point I believe that I will need to remove the motor mount on 
the driver's (left) side. I replaced the motor mounts and transmission mount 
recently (after I replaced the injectors and it still vibrated.. bummer, live 
and learn). So I don't believe I will need new ones. 

I will drain all the oil and replace the filter however I have never drained 
the oil cooler before, does it hold much? (when I et it all back together 
anything weird about refilling it after draining the cooler?

And the new bolts that I got that attach the motor mount the chassis use a 5MM 
allen, do I still use the old torque spec ?? 30 NM ???

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Kevin Kraly
you have a junker there, and you'll have to sell it to me for $500.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300sD 267Kmi, Ursula

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley


I haven't done it on a W126. If I were to do it again on a 116, I'd
unhook one end of the left engine shock (I ruined a shock mount jacking
up the engine the first time I did this without unhooking the shock),
put a 2x4 under the left side of the oil pan, raise it a bit, unbolt
the left mount, raise the engine some more, remove the left mount,
and RR the hoses. On both ends of the hoses, loosen the fittings
by putting a wrench on the nut, and one on the fitting that the
nut screws onto, and squeezing the two wrenches together. This avoids
putting torque on the filter housing and the cooler.

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread George Larribeau
When I replaced the motor mount I installed new shocks, I will make sure to 
remove / unbolt them to avoid damage.
I was not aware that torque on the oil cooler was to be avoided, thanks for 
the tip ..

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD




 I haven't done it on a W126. If I were to do it again on a 116, I'd
 unhook one end of the left engine shock (I ruined a shock mount jacking
 up the engine the first time I did this without unhooking the shock),
 put a 2x4 under the left side of the oil pan, raise it a bit, unbolt
 the left mount, raise the engine some more, remove the left mount,
 and RR the hoses. On both ends of the hoses, loosen the fittings
 by putting a wrench on the nut, and one on the fitting that the
 nut screws onto, and squeezing the two wrenches together. This avoids
 putting torque on the filter housing and the cooler.

 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Did you have any issues with the threads? I am assuming not since you did not 
say anything but I seem to recall
someone saying that sometimes the threads won't let go and one ends up with 
thread damage to the oil cooler. Any
thoughts on whether soaking before hand with something like PB Blaster or 
heating with a torch might help avoid
such damage?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 1:17 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD




I haven't done it on a W126. If I were to do it again on a 116, I'd
unhook one end of the left engine shock (I ruined a shock mount jacking
up the engine the first time I did this without unhooking the shock),
put a 2x4 under the left side of the oil pan, raise it a bit, unbolt
the left mount, raise the engine some more, remove the left mount,
and RR the hoses. On both ends of the hoses, loosen the fittings
by putting a wrench on the nut, and one on the fitting that the
nut screws onto, and squeezing the two wrenches together. This avoids
putting torque on the filter housing and the cooler.

_


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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 11:33 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 John M McIntosh wrote:
  
   Quote from their letter:
   The consequence of not replacing a expired airbag is that its proper
   functioning CAN NOT be assured in the event a collision might occur...

  In other words, don't sue us if your airbag misfires on your 20 year
  old 201.


But that's just a CYA legal safeguard.  The airbag is probably a good
bit less likely to malfunction than most other components of said 201.
 How complicated can it be?  It's just a bag of Jiffy Pop with a model
rocket engine inside.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
R A Bennell wrote:
 
 Did you have any issues with the threads?

I had no issues with a 23 year old W116 that had spent its entire life
in Georgia and Florida. I have heard of people having the cooler threads
come off with the hose, maybe they were from saltland or had aluminum coolers?
I think my cooler was brass, which may have helped.

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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley


Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 But that's just a CYA legal safeguard.  The airbag is probably a good
 bit less likely to malfunction than most other components of said 201.
  How complicated can it be?  It's just a bag of Jiffy Pop with a model
 rocket engine inside.

The fact that they seem to be accepting liability for the same bag in a
14 year old W124 says something for the long term reliability.

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Hey Andrew, aren't you the fellow who was worried about rust? Ask yourself if 
you would pay more for a car from AZ
than a car from DC.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 1:54 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320


A friend bought a '98 E320 3 years ago from the local dealer for $16K.  The
car was basically perfect and had only 56K miles on the odometer.  Based on
this purchase, the CL E320 seems overpriced.

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 2:48 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Is the answer not going to depend almost solely on condition? How can one
 tell what is too much without seeing the
 car?

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robert Rentfro
 Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320


 How's the price for this? Too much? What's correct?



 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601589762.html



 Bob R.

 Third car shopping

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread andrew strasfogel
A friend bought a '98 E320 3 years ago from the local dealer for $16K.  The
car was basically perfect and had only 56K miles on the odometer.  Based on
this purchase, the CL E320 seems overpriced.

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 2:48 PM, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Is the answer not going to depend almost solely on condition? How can one
 tell what is too much without seeing the
 car?

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Robert Rentfro
 Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320


 How's the price for this? Too much? What's correct?



 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601589762.html



 Bob R.

 Third car shopping

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[MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread Gary Hurst
i bought my house in outstanding condition.  it was owned by an old woman
who paid to keep up every element of the property.  like many old school
people, however, she never replaced anything, but fixed stuff.  so
everything on the house is about 30 years old.

i sent the kid down to the garage to take my clothes out of the dryer.  she
reported them still wet.  so i told her add time.  and hour later, still
wet.  add more time.  an hour later, still wet.  so now i go investigate.
turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked

1.  does this sound like an easy fix?
2.  does this sound like a fix i ought not undertake but should hire someone
to do for me?
3.  does it sound insane to fix a 30 year old dryer, so just throw it out
and get another one?
4.  do i just convince my mom to get me some ventless combination
washer/dryer and just keep it in the kitchen and shut down the wasteful
large garage setup?
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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread John Robbins
Gary Hurst wrote:
 turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked

Don't dryers have belts to turn the drum?  I've never taken one apart... 
but believe this to be the case.  Sounds like it could easily be your 
problem



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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell
Maybe just the belt. Can you hear the motor running? Usually, the same motor 
runs the fan and the drum. If just the
belt then fairly easy to fix and not expensive. While you have it apart, a 
great opportunity to clean out all of
the lint that accumulates and reduces the efficiency of the dryer.

I used to take apart our old electric dryer often as it would get plugged up 
with lint. With it, one would open the
door on the front and take out a couple of screws going up into the top. Then 
the top would lift - hinged at the
back. Once the top was up, one could see the inside. In order to get the drum 
out to clean the blower assembly that
was sort of in front of and under the drum, one would remove screws from the 
two sides that went into the front.
Then the front could be removed and the drum pulled ahead. I think I may have 
had to pull a small panel on the back
from behind in order to get the drum released from the bearing in the back too. 
All fairly easy but one gets cuts
on the hands as these things tend to be sharp inside.

Another issue was the bearing surfaces that the drum rode on at the front would 
wear out. Again, not expensive or
hard to fix. Most expensive part that I replaced was the motor. It gave up due 
to the bearings being sealed and no
way to lubricate them. About $100 for the motor if I recall. Still worth fixing 
if you can do the work yourself.

There are some online sources or appliance repair advice and diagrams that you 
might want to look at. Cannot recall
names but a google search should bring them up.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 3:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; Banned List
Subject: [MBZ] dryer repair advice


i bought my house in outstanding condition.  it was owned by an old woman
who paid to keep up every element of the property.  like many old school
people, however, she never replaced anything, but fixed stuff.  so
everything on the house is about 30 years old.

i sent the kid down to the garage to take my clothes out of the dryer.  she
reported them still wet.  so i told her add time.  and hour later, still
wet.  add more time.  an hour later, still wet.  so now i go investigate.
turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked

1.  does this sound like an easy fix?
2.  does this sound like a fix i ought not undertake but should hire someone
to do for me?
3.  does it sound insane to fix a 30 year old dryer, so just throw it out
and get another one?
4.  do i just convince my mom to get me some ventless combination
washer/dryer and just keep it in the kitchen and shut down the wasteful
large garage setup?
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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread R A Bennell

http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_8.asp

Try this.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 3:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; Banned List
Subject: [MBZ] dryer repair advice


i bought my house in outstanding condition.  it was owned by an old woman
who paid to keep up every element of the property.  like many old school
people, however, she never replaced anything, but fixed stuff.  so
everything on the house is about 30 years old.

i sent the kid down to the garage to take my clothes out of the dryer.  she
reported them still wet.  so i told her add time.  and hour later, still
wet.  add more time.  an hour later, still wet.  so now i go investigate.
turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked

1.  does this sound like an easy fix?
2.  does this sound like a fix i ought not undertake but should hire someone
to do for me?
3.  does it sound insane to fix a 30 year old dryer, so just throw it out
and get another one?
4.  do i just convince my mom to get me some ventless combination
washer/dryer and just keep it in the kitchen and shut down the wasteful
large garage setup?
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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread E M
few thousand off what I've seen asked for others similar.

Ed
300E

On 10/03/2008, Robert Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How's the price for this? Too much? What's correct?



 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/601589762.html



 Bob R.

 Third car shopping

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
When I replaced my oil cooler lines on my SD (and later my CD) I didn't have 
any problems with the threads.  The CD gave me fits and I ended up cutting the 
cooler line off, and using a 27mm socket on the offending nut.  That took care 
of the issue.

While you have the oil cooler lines out of the way, tighten the oil filter base 
allen bolts.  This will save you from having to do that again later if a leak 
develops.

Luther

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 13:45:26 -0600, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Did you have any issues with the threads? I am assuming not since you did not 
 say anything but I seem to recall
 someone saying that sometimes the threads won't let go and one ends up with 
 thread damage to the oil cooler. Any
 thoughts on whether soaking before hand with something like PB Blaster or 
 heating with a torch might help avoid
 such damage?

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mitch Haley
 Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 1:17 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD




 I haven't done it on a W126. If I were to do it again on a 116, I'd
 unhook one end of the left engine shock (I ruined a shock mount jacking
 up the engine the first time I did this without unhooking the shock),
 put a 2x4 under the left side of the oil pan, raise it a bit, unbolt
 the left mount, raise the engine some more, remove the left mount,
 and RR the hoses. On both ends of the hoses, loosen the fittings
 by putting a wrench on the nut, and one on the fitting that the
 nut screws onto, and squeezing the two wrenches together. This avoids
 putting torque on the filter housing and the cooler.

 _



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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[MBZ] SDL RUNS!

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
The gorgeous weather of the last several days has prompted me to get off my 
lazy bum and finish the SDL head RR adventure.  Took 2 jumps of a freshly 
charged but almost worn out battery to get the fuel system primed and the 
engine running under it's own power.  Starts and idles fine.  YEEHA.

Now, I need to fix the transmission fluid leak.

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread Bill R
A lot will depend on the anticipated use.  You will have to pay top
dollar today to get anything that will last near as long.  We bought a combo
unit based on the two of us and MIL.  The first year we also had a
daughter/SIL and grandson, then the third year we had another daughter plus
three kids.  The medium duty machines will not last much longer.  I am
letting the warranty expire on them with plans to replace when needed with
top line - probably foreign - units, but I will expect to pay a lot more for
them.
The old ones lasted a lot longer than a standard unit will today,
unless you get a top line one.
BillR
Jacksonville FL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Gary Hurst
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 5:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; Banned List
Subject: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

i bought my house in outstanding condition.  it was owned by an old woman
who paid to keep up every element of the property.  like many old school
people, however, she never replaced anything, but fixed stuff.  so
everything on the house is about 30 years old.

i sent the kid down to the garage to take my clothes out of the dryer.  she
reported them still wet.  so i told her add time.  and hour later, still
wet.  add more time.  an hour later, still wet.  so now i go investigate.
turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked

1.  does this sound like an easy fix?
2.  does this sound like a fix i ought not undertake but should hire someone
to do for me?
3.  does it sound insane to fix a 30 year old dryer, so just throw it out
and get another one?
4.  do i just convince my mom to get me some ventless combination
washer/dryer and just keep it in the kitchen and shut down the wasteful
large garage setup?
___
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: AGM Batteries

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
I believe both Orbital and Optima are AGM. 
I think it's worth some extra $$$ for a battery that won't
cause underhood corrosion. Thought that ever since I owned a 1979
Subaru. All the Subies of that generation had rusted out fenders
next to the battery tray. Seemed strange to see mostly rustfree
cars with holes on top of the fenders.

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
E M wrote:
 
 few thousand off what I've seen asked for others similar.

But aren't you in Canuckistan, where the dollar was worthless
years before the greenback was worthless, and everything still
costs 50% more even though we now have dollar parity?

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[MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
My transmission is leaking from around the output shaft.  Can someone provide 
me with hints and tricks for RRing the output shaft seal?  TIA all.

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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[MBZ] drier repair

2008-03-10 Thread wilton strickland
Does the motor run?  'May just need a usually-very-easy-to-replace belt.
Driers are extremely simple - just a heating element, fan and some way to
rotate the drum - usually a small belt or a small pulley on the motor
turning directly against the side of the tub.

Wilton




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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread Limon276
If you take the dryer apart see if the magical missing sock fairy is in  
there.



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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread John M McIntosh
The *fun* thing here for you americans is to go away and ask your  
insurance company
for *their* opinion  Maybe a rate change, or denial of coverage is  
in order?


On Mar 10, 2008, at 12:52 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:



 Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 But that's just a CYA legal safeguard.  The airbag is probably a good
 bit less likely to malfunction than most other components of said  
 201.
 How complicated can it be?  It's just a bag of Jiffy Pop with a model
 rocket engine inside.

 The fact that they seem to be accepting liability for the same bag  
 in a
 14 year old W124 says something for the long term reliability.

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread John M McIntosh
Actually things up here are 20-30% more expensive, versus 50%

However there are choices, would you like that airline ticket in usa  
for $1000USA or in cdn for *cough* $1200 cdn?
Oh that's fine I'll charge it for the $1000 usa which might become  
$995 cdn when everthing settles...

On Mar 10, 2008, at 2:43 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 E M wrote:

 few thousand off what I've seen asked for others similar.

 But aren't you in Canuckistan, where the dollar was worthless
 years before the greenback was worthless, and everything still
 costs 50% more even though we now have dollar parity?

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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread Rich Thomas
You can buy parts at an appliance parts store, or from Sears Parts 
online, the replacement is probably some generic thing that fits many 
models (a lot of appliances are basically the same, made for different 
labels, same internals).  If it is the timer it is probably a 30 min 
job, with cussing the thing taking about 15min.  Or it could be a loose 
connection from the vibration, or just gunked up.  Nothing about dryers 
is complicated -- timer, switches, motor, drive belts, heating element 
(or gas burner -- the igniter on these burns out every 3-5 years, last 
one I bought was like $8 and took about 10 min to replace), and the 
roller thingiie under the drum that wears out, a quick easy cheap fix.  
It is not insane to fix, parts are cheap, the thing is simple, and it 
makes no sense to throw away 100lb of metal for a $30 part.

I kept a $20 washer going for years with occasional parts replacement 
til the wife got tired of waiting a couple of days for me to fix it when 
it died.

--R

Gary Hurst wrote:
 i bought my house in outstanding condition.  it was owned by an old woman
 who paid to keep up every element of the property.  like many old school
 people, however, she never replaced anything, but fixed stuff.  so
 everything on the house is about 30 years old.

 i sent the kid down to the garage to take my clothes out of the dryer.  she
 reported them still wet.  so i told her add time.  and hour later, still
 wet.  add more time.  an hour later, still wet.  so now i go investigate.
 turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked

 1.  does this sound like an easy fix?
 2.  does this sound like a fix i ought not undertake but should hire someone
 to do for me?
 3.  does it sound insane to fix a 30 year old dryer, so just throw it out
 and get another one?
 4.  do i just convince my mom to get me some ventless combination
 washer/dryer and just keep it in the kitchen and shut down the wasteful
 large garage setup?
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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread Timothy Robinson
Same situation I just fixed for an old friend.

His (oold White Westinghouse) dryer... close the door and you could hear the
motor running but when I opened the door, held button and pressed start, the
drum wasn't turning with a load. The belt obviously was worn out.

New belt is about $11.00 and pretty simple to replace. Usually you open
access on rear of a dryer to the drive motor which has an spring loaded
idler pulley. Open top of dryer and remove screws holding the front panel.
The drum usually rides on sleeves (felt and plastic which often wear out
causing failure). Slip the belt around the drum from front and reassemble.
Locate belt around the drum and then around motor drive shaft at the rear.

It's not a bad $11.00 repair which will delay replacing dryer if everything
else is in reasonable condition. Usually if there's a problem with timer or
temp sensor it's not worth the expense of the part for an old dryer.



 From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 17:04:55 -0400
 To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com,  Banned List
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] dryer repair advice
 
 i bought my house in outstanding condition.  it was owned by an old woman
 who paid to keep up every element of the property.  like many old school
 people, however, she never replaced anything, but fixed stuff.  so
 everything on the house is about 30 years old.
 
 i sent the kid down to the garage to take my clothes out of the dryer.  she
 reported them still wet.  so i told her add time.  and hour later, still
 wet.  add more time.  an hour later, still wet.  so now i go investigate.
 turns out the cylinder no longer spins and my limited wardrobe is soaked
 
 1.  does this sound like an easy fix?
 2.  does this sound like a fix i ought not undertake but should hire someone
 to do for me?
 3.  does it sound insane to fix a 30 year old dryer, so just throw it out
 and get another one?
 4.  do i just convince my mom to get me some ventless combination
 washer/dryer and just keep it in the kitchen and shut down the wasteful
 large garage setup?
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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
John M McIntosh wrote:
 
 Actually things up here are 20-30% more expensive, versus 50%

When the dollars were 3:2, most stuff was cheaper in USA.
With the dollars at 1:1, or even 1:1.02, cross border shopping
must be pretty lucrative now.

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread E M
if you come to the big city here, mercedes are everywhere, and there are
tonnes more on the market for less than what you guys often talk about.  The
mentioned car is probably a $7500 tops car here, and if you don't like what
you see, keep looking, you can checkout another dozen the same day for that
kind of money.

Often cars talked about on the list for $2-3000 dollars are parts cars here
for $500-1000.  Guys with old W123 wagons dream about getting the type of
money you talk about at times down south.  Emission testing turns a lot of
our older cars into pop cans.

Ed
300E

On 10/03/2008, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 E M wrote:
 
  few thousand off what I've seen asked for others similar.


 But aren't you in Canuckistan, where the dollar was worthless
 years before the greenback was worthless, and everything still
 costs 50% more even though we now have dollar parity?


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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Hendrik Fay
1. Lets see, undo hose and make a big mess with coolant or attach 1/2 
inch garden hose over drain hole and use big screwdriver to undo tap and 
watch the coolant flow into bucket? Your choice but I got a garden hose 
and am not afraid to use it.
2. those little access panels do like to fall out out now and again, 
some get replaced others don't, when removing it push down on the top 
otherwise plastic gets damaged and piece gets lost
3. Fix your central locking and impress your friends with this technology
4. don't know perhaps cruise control?
5. don't worry about anything below 80, it should get there pretty quick 
and not go over 100 much
6. sounds like it was a plaything at kindergarten at some stage, no one 
that I know of writes with crayons to indicate service, I write with 
white texta on the oil filter when I changed it and the oil but the diff 
oil is changed according to mileage
7. air bag? was ist das?

Your welcome
Hendrik

Zoltan Finks wrote:
 '87 190D 2.5 Non-turbo

 1.In order to drain the coolant via the petcock (I'll never pass up a chance
 to use that word) does one have to remove the plastic body piece that runs
 below the bumper? I don't see a way to access it otherwise. On this note,
 why would anyone not just drain the coolant by unhooking the lower radiator
 hose at the radiator?
 2. On the above mentioned body panel, I noticed a sticker that is about two
 inches long and 1/3 inch wide. On it is a repeating pattern of little blue
 MB stars and in the center is a rectangle that looks like it may have once
 contained a number or something. Does this indicate that this panel is a
 replacement and not original?

 3. Quickest way to disable the vacuum motor that runs every time I operate
 the door locks? It's useless. Pull a fuse or unplug the motor?

 4. What is the rod that runs over the valve cover? The one that is actuated
 by the throttle? It attaches to something on the passenger side of the valve
 cover. What is that unit? The rod is always popped off every time I open the
 hood and look.

 5. This question applies to not only the 201: The temperature gauge: Is it
 linear in its reading? In other words, can one assume that half way between
 60 and 80 is 70? And half way between 80 and zero is 40, etc.? Or is it the
 case that, for instance, the lower portion of the needle's range covers a
 greater range of temperatures? What is the mark below 80? What's the deal
 with all this?

 6. If there is a number written in crayon on the rear of the differential
 ham, does this indicate that it came from a junkyard? The seller explained
 this away saying that it indicates when it was last filled.

 7. I have a sticker in the cup holder of the glove box that, if I recall,
 says that the SRS airbag has been replaced. I suppose the only reason this
 would happen is that the car has been in an accident?

 Thanks,
 Brian
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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread Mitch Haley
E M wrote:
 Emission testing turns a lot of our older cars into pop cans.

OK, I thought it was rust.

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread E M
Was at one time, now, many go to the crusher with very little rust.  One
wrecker told me he  crushes lots of cars from the early to mid '90s now,
often just not worth the money to pass them if they have miles on them.

Ed
300E

On 10/03/2008, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 E M wrote:
  Emission testing turns a lot of our older cars into pop cans.


 OK, I thought it was rust.


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Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey
 My transmission is leaking from around the output shaft.  Can someone 
 provide me with hints and tricks for RRing the output shaft seal?  
 TIA all.

You need whatever socket removes the tailshaft nut.  May be
castle, more likely 12-point.  After that I think it's a standard
pry it out with screwdriver hammered through it and tap in a
new one.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: AGM Batteries

2008-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey
 Is this [AGM] the technology behind Optima batteries?

I believe so.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread OK Don
Having had a jack slip and puncture the oil pan (I know it's been done
many times without incident), I'd use an engine lift instead of the
jack 


  I haven't done it on a W126. If I were to do it again on a 116, I'd
  unhook one end of the left engine shock (I ruined a shock mount jacking
  up the engine the first time I did this without unhooking the shock),
  put a 2x4 under the left side of the oil pan, raise it a bit, unbolt
  the left mount, raise the engine some more, remove the left mount,


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread Hendrik Fay
I would have thought that there be a huge trade going with older cars 
heading south of the border.
Guess even the South Americans have their standards and won't touch 
rubbishy cars.

Hendrik
who lives in a dumping ground for the other states because we don't have 
tests

E M wrote:
 Was at one time, now, many go to the crusher with very little rust.  One
 wrecker told me he  crushes lots of cars from the early to mid '90s now,
 often just not worth the money to pass them if they have miles on them.

 Ed
 300E

   
   

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Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
Can it be done in car?

Luther

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:45:13 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My transmission is leaking from around the output shaft.  Can someone
 provide me with hints and tricks for RRing the output shaft seal?
 TIA all.

 You need whatever socket removes the tailshaft nut.  May be
 castle, more likely 12-point.  After that I think it's a standard
 pry it out with screwdriver hammered through it and tap in a
 new one.

 -- Jim




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
Burned twice shame on you?

Luther

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:48:34 -0600, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Having had a jack slip and puncture the oil pan (I know it's been done
 many times without incident), I'd use an engine lift instead of the
 jack 


  I haven't done it on a W126. If I were to do it again on a 116, I'd
  unhook one end of the left engine shock (I ruined a shock mount jacking
  up the engine the first time I did this without unhooking the shock),
  put a 2x4 under the left side of the oil pan, raise it a bit, unbolt
  the left mount, raise the engine some more, remove the left mount,





-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
Er, can it be done with the transmission in car?

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 20:48:56 -0600, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Can it be done in car?

 Luther

 On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:45:13 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My transmission is leaking from around the output shaft.  Can someone
 provide me with hints and tricks for RRing the output shaft seal?
 TIA all.

 You need whatever socket removes the tailshaft nut.  May be
 castle, more likely 12-point.  After that I think it's a standard
 pry it out with screwdriver hammered through it and tap in a
 new one.

 -- Jim







-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Luther
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#transmission
41mm 6 point socket?

Luther

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:45:13 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My transmission is leaking from around the output shaft.  Can someone
 provide me with hints and tricks for RRing the output shaft seal?
 TIA all.

 You need whatever socket removes the tailshaft nut.  May be
 castle, more likely 12-point.  After that I think it's a standard
 pry it out with screwdriver hammered through it and tap in a
 new one.

 -- Jim




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] OT Used care. PHX CL '97 E320

2008-03-10 Thread E M
I think the trade is more in cars coming North.  Many have opted to buy in
the US and bring into Canada and take advantage of the savings, which at
times are large and hard for the manufactures to explain, given most of the
models are almost identical.  There was a recent article of some of the
price differences in a recent paper here.  A new Porsche GT3 is something
like $30,000 cheaper to buy in the US and bring in.

Thing with a rubbish or cheap car, unless you can ship it to where you are
for the cost of a tank of gas from home, who wants it.  We've heard many say
here, great car, if I was closer.  Even if a car is a pretty good deal at
say $1500, who's going to pay $1000 to ship such a car?  So they're bought
by the pound and crushed.

Here's an example.  I have an old Ford wagon.  V6 engine with 60,000 kms on
it, and the tranny.  Bought it off my lawyer thinking I was getting a dog,
not the car, I mean four legged type.  Body is now no good.  Come and get
the engine for $100, and what's left, you can get $50 from the scrapper.
People ask, can it drive?  No, I won't let you.  So, a $200 tow and now it's
not such a good deal, so it will go to the scrapper for $80.  I had my first
car, a '76 LeMans with 38,000 original miles.  Could have been easily fixed,
needed tires and minor bottom door work.  I wanted to give it away for the
engine and trans, yes GIVE away!  It was a 350.  Guys would ask if it drove,
sure, with temp plates, then they'd hum and haw.  Hey, it's free man, how
about I write out a warranty on it for you too?  I sent it to the crusher
for $50 and saved myself the pain in the backside.  Maybe that 350 is
running around the streets of NY somewhere today in a cab.  I'd like to
think a bit of it lived on, but more likely it was send to China to be made
into crap tools or something.

Ed
300E

On 10/03/2008, Hendrik  Fay [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I would have thought that there be a huge trade going with older cars
 heading south of the border.
 Guess even the South Americans have their standards and won't touch
 rubbishy cars.

 Hendrik
 who lives in a dumping ground for the other states because we don't have
 tests


 E M wrote:
  Was at one time, now, many go to the crusher with very little rust.  One
  wrecker told me he  crushes lots of cars from the early to mid '90s now,
  often just not worth the money to pass them if they have miles on them.
 
  Ed
  300E
 
 
 


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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Oil Lines OM 617.951 in 85 300SD

2008-03-10 Thread OK Don
Nope - I learned after the first time, which is why I'm sharing my
experience ---

On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 9:51 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Burned twice shame on you?


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Various Little 190D Questions

2008-03-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 10:59:34 -0700 John M McIntosh
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 They told me:
 
 For W163,w168,r170,w203,w210,c215,w220 etc airbag life is lifetime.
 For w124,w126,w129,w140,w201,w202 airbags require replacement after 15  
 years,
 
 Quote from their letter:
 The consequence of not replacing a expired airbag is that its proper  
 functioning CAN NOT be assured in the event a collision might occur...


There was a Reader's Digest article a few months ago about air bags being
improperly replaced during repair. An eye opener.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] dryer repair advice

2008-03-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 15:21:10 -0600 R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_8.asp
 
 Try this.
 
 Randy


I second the recommendation!

They have advice and sell parts, too.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey
 Can it be done in car?

I think so.  Certainly so on a 450 SL.  I bought the seal
for when the tranny was out, but it looked good and didn't
leak, and I determined to replace it in-car if it ever did
leak.  Didn't ever leak, I sold the car six years later,
and still have the seal in a box somewhere.  (I did replace
the front seal and the front pump seal.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL tranny leak

2008-03-10 Thread Jim Cathey
 http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#transmission
 41mm 6 point socket?

No, I don't think so.  I think it's one of the 30mm 12-point
jobs.  (I don't have one.)

-- Jim


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