Re: [MBZ] 91 560SEL, what are these buttons?

[E M]

ejection ?

Ed
300E

2009/9/27 Kaleb C. Striplin 

> Look at the pics of this 560, the one that shows the area where the heated
> seat buttons are, there are 4 buttons there.  I have only ever seen 3, the 2
> for the seats, and the middle one for the horn tone.  What is the 4th one? I
> cant tell.
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-500-Series-560-SEL-1991-Mercedes-560-SEL_W0QQitemZ130333715433QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item1e587eabe9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
>
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
> 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
> 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com
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> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

[Jim Cathey]

managed to seperate the mirror form the bracket at the ball joint,
and can't get it back on the ball.


They're not supposed to come apart there.  Oops.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

[archer]

OK Don wrote:

My SIL is trying to replace the rear view mirror in their '91 300E. He
managed to seperate the mirror form the bracket at the ball joint, and 
can't

get it back on the ball.
I've tried laying the mirror on a flat surface and pushing fairly hard 
while

twisting the ball around, with no progress at all.

Anyone have a magic trick for this?

Had a  similar problem.  Had to take the mirror out and, while holding the 
ball against the three "fingers" that originally held it in, gradually 
pushed the "fingers" open a little at a time from inside until the ball 
slipped in.  Pushing from the outside just pushed the "fingers" together. 
Hope that makes sense.  That wasn't on an MB, though.

Good luck,
Gerry 



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[MBZ] 91 560SEL, what are these buttons?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Look at the pics of this 560, the one that shows the area where the 
heated seat buttons are, there are 4 buttons there.  I have only ever 
seen 3, the 2 for the seats, and the middle one for the horn tone.  What 
is the 4th one? I cant tell.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-500-Series-560-SEL-1991-Mercedes-560-SEL_W0QQitemZ130333715433QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item1e587eabe9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Bel Air vs Malibu and crumple zones

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 22:36:50 EDT relng...@aol.com wrote:

> To celebrate their 50th anniversary, the Insurance Institute for Highway
> 
> Safety crashed a 1959 Chevrolet Bel Air into a 2009 Chevrolet Malibu.
> The  video speaks for itself and makes the need for crumple zones
> obvious.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CU-k0XmLUk&feature=player_embedded#t=45

That's really amazing!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Bel Air vs Malibu and crumple zones

[Peter Frederick]

The flimsy construction of late 1950's and early 1960 american made  
cars is terrifying.  I think the high speed expensive Italian ones  
were worse, but the lack of a substantial frame and the single sheet  
metal body simply smashed flat in accidents.  I can still close my  
eyes and see the film of a 1961 or 1962 Oldsmobile 98 hitting a  
telephone pole dead center at 60 mph -- the pole pretty much cut the  
car in half lengthwise.  Horrible to watch -- the rear end and drive  
train come out the back from under the car and the body just keeps  
crunching up.  Finally stops with the telephone pole where the rear  
seat should be.  And that car weighed almost 4000 lbs, too.


Surprisingly, the dummy wasn't impaled on the steering column, a very  
common fatality in those days.


There was a fatal accident in town a week or so ago when some idiot  
running from the police blew a light and T-boned a Cadillac (fairly  
new, I think) with a Ford Taurus and killed the driver of the Caddy.   
I don't know if it was on the driver's door or passenger side, I  
didn't see the pics, but this is similar to the accident I had the my  
old 300D where I got hit in the driver's door by a work van (Chevy  
3500 series fully loaded).  I walked away, somewhat battered, but the  
guy in the Caddy died.  There is something wrong here, I think -- he  
may have not had his seat belt on, and if not probably died from head  
trauma, but if he was belted in he should have survived anyway.


Naturally, the idiot driving 80 miles an hour into an intersection  
with a very narrow, 45 degree turn just past the crossroad  
intersection didn't get a scratch.  He is going to spend significant  
time in prison, though.


Peter

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[MBZ] another 16v parts/project

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Mercedes-Benz-Cosworth-190E-16V-getrag-5-speed_W0QQitemZ230382270653QQcmdZViewItemQQptZSalvage_Parts_Cars?hash=item35a3da78bd&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 18:25:05 -0700 "Greg Fiorentino"
 wrote:

> It looks like there are 4 screws holding in a bearing retainer on each
> end.  Dismount the motor, take off pulleys, loosen caps, clean and
> repack bearings???
> 
> Any gotchas I need to watch out for?

If it's a capacitor-start motor, there will be a centrifugal switch
actuated by weight(s) on the rotor; you'll need to be careful of the
linkage when you take it apart.

You will need to determine if the bearing grease has gotten extremely
thick or if the bearings are frozen. If the former, you might, as Rich
hinted, be able to loosen up the grease by adding back the low-viscosity
components without taking the bearings apart. If the latter, you will have
to get the bearings out to replace them.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Unique 240D

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Well yes-there is no disputing about taste. I guess I like my stock 240D
enough to make the trunk work even with bungees when I take the grille to
the chowdah fest, etc.  Maybe a 123 pickup conversion would be nice. Like
the 170D pickups in south America. 

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 218K + miles.  
1990 300D 2.5t 170K miles.
Wickford, RI

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Hendrik & Fay
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 2:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Unique 240D

One persons ugly is another persons practical.

Hendrik
who likes practical



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[MBZ] Bel Air vs Malibu and crumple zones

[RELNGSON]

To celebrate their 50th anniversary, the Insurance Institute for Highway 
Safety crashed a 1959 Chevrolet Bel Air into a 2009 Chevrolet Malibu. The 
video speaks for itself and makes the need for crumple zones obvious.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CU-k0XmLUk&feature=player_embedded#t=45

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[Rich Thomas]

PB Blaster.  That stuff is awesome.  Or the ATF and Acetone recipe.

--R

Greg Fiorentino wrote:

I've just set up a ~60 year-old Craftsman drill press to do some fairly
accurate drilling (for mods to my 7X12 lathe), only to find that the motor
(which hasn't been run for about 15 years) is seized up.  I assume that the
bearing grease has turned to concrete.  Any good tips out there how to go
about getting this old workhorse going again?  It looks like there are 4
screws holding in a bearing retainer on each end.  Dismount the motor, take
off pulleys, loosen caps, clean and repack bearings???

Any gotchas I need to watch out for?

TIA for any help here!

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300TD (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics
'97 F-250HD Crew Cab 7.3 Powerstroke

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of LWB250
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 10:20 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

Check out the resources at OWWM - Old Wood Working Machines.  I have done
some restorations of old equipment, and have found it to be the best
resource for such things on the Web.  You might have to join the forums (no
charge) and post a question...

www.owwm.com

Dan

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Loren Faeth  wrote:

  

From: Loren Faeth 
Subject: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw
To: "mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 12:22 PM
Does anyone know who made the Monkey
Ward Powercraft table saws?  I read about them online
once, and it seems there is quite a following  of the
manufacturer's saws in the East.  Now I can't find the
article or remember the name of the manufacturer.  I
seem to recall the company was two surnames.

Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Unique 240D

[Hendrik & Fay]

One persons ugly is another persons practical.

Hendrik
who likes practical

Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:

IMHO-all of this mpg talk misses the point-friggin ugly and should be
punishable in stocks.
But Fred-don't Brits now think In terms of litres as well?


Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
  




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[MBZ] I'm back!

[Kevin Kraly]

My Comcast account doesn't work here at guide dog school, so I'm using Gmail.  
My black Lab guide dog is now retired and assuming the role of pet dog.  He has 
been replaced by a 90 pound Labradoodle.  This dog would require more than just 
half of the back seat of a 300SD that's for sure!  He doesn't like Diesel 
exhaust in his face as we found out while walking by a PowerChoke idling near 
the curb.  The guide dog training vans are Sprinter vans with the V6 Diesel, so 
the dogs have already ridden in a Mercedes.  I think I've found the right guide 
dog school!

Kevin, currently in Palm Springs, CA, between Mercedes Diesels
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Re: [MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Not sure why it would get separated, never seen that before.  So, I dont 
know how to put it back either.


OK Don wrote:

My SIL is trying to replace the rear view mirror in their '91 300E. He
managed to seperate the mirror form the bracket at the ball joint, and can't
get it back on the ball.
I've tried laying the mirror on a flat surface and pushing fairly hard while
twisting the ball around, with no progress at all.

Anyone have a magic trick for this?

  




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.113/2399 - Release Date: 09/27/09 17:52:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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[MBZ] I now own a running/driving 90 2.5 turbo

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Looks almost exactly like the first 2.5 I had, the burgandy one that I 
bought years ago, sold to Todd, then bought back and sold again. 


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[Greg Fiorentino]

I've just set up a ~60 year-old Craftsman drill press to do some fairly
accurate drilling (for mods to my 7X12 lathe), only to find that the motor
(which hasn't been run for about 15 years) is seized up.  I assume that the
bearing grease has turned to concrete.  Any good tips out there how to go
about getting this old workhorse going again?  It looks like there are 4
screws holding in a bearing retainer on each end.  Dismount the motor, take
off pulleys, loosen caps, clean and repack bearings???

Any gotchas I need to watch out for?

TIA for any help here!

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300TD (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics
'97 F-250HD Crew Cab 7.3 Powerstroke

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of LWB250
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 10:20 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

Check out the resources at OWWM - Old Wood Working Machines.  I have done
some restorations of old equipment, and have found it to be the best
resource for such things on the Web.  You might have to join the forums (no
charge) and post a question...

www.owwm.com

Dan

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Loren Faeth  wrote:

> From: Loren Faeth 
> Subject: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw
> To: "mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 12:22 PM
> Does anyone know who made the Monkey
> Ward Powercraft table saws?  I read about them online
> once, and it seems there is quite a following  of the
> manufacturer's saws in the East.  Now I can't find the
> article or remember the name of the manufacturer.  I
> seem to recall the company was two surnames.
> 
> Loren Faeth 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


  


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Re: [MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 5:10 PM, OK Don  wrote:
> My SIL is trying to replace the rear view mirror in their '91 300E. He
> managed to seperate the mirror form the bracket at the ball joint, and can't
> get it back on the ball.
> I've tried laying the mirror on a flat surface and pushing fairly hard while
> twisting the ball around, with no progress at all.
>
> Anyone have a magic trick for this?

Lubricate with soapy water or hairspray, and push harder?

Alex Chamberlain
Two 124s, two 126s

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

[Greg Fiorentino]

If it's anything like the one in the wife's '79 TD, it took me a 12-ton
hydraulic press to reassemble it.  I used a piece of softwood about 3/4" X
5" X 2" as a softener over the mirror.  Surprisingly, it didn't break the
glass!  I would imagine you could accomplish the same thing with a large
bench vise.

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300TD (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics
'97 F-250HD Crew Cab 7.3 Powerstroke

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 5:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

My SIL is trying to replace the rear view mirror in their '91 300E. He
managed to seperate the mirror form the bracket at the ball joint, and can't
get it back on the ball.
I've tried laying the mirror on a flat surface and pushing fairly hard while
twisting the ball around, with no progress at all.

Anyone have a magic trick for this?

-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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[MBZ] 124 rearview mirror

[OK Don]

My SIL is trying to replace the rear view mirror in their '91 300E. He
managed to seperate the mirror form the bracket at the ball joint, and can't
get it back on the ball.
I've tried laying the mirror on a flat surface and pushing fairly hard while
twisting the ball around, with no progress at all.

Anyone have a magic trick for this?

-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] clunkers

[Hendrik & Fay]

Undoubtedly but as an example A124's are making between AUD20-30K, there 
are 11 E320 A124s on that list or round about AUD200K worth.

What where they traded on? Modern junk that gets 20-30% better mileage?
I can understand old heaps pre catalytic converter days but in the main 
these are 'modern' cars, ie. electronic fuel injection, good 
aerodynamics, cats, etc

They are not 70's gas guzzlers.
Anyway we have discussed the cash for klunkers scheme enough.

Hendrik
with a gas guzzling 89 300TE

relng...@aol.com wrote:

.check out some of the MB's that got clunked.  Simply unbelievable...


There are some listed that make you wonder but there are plenty of cars 
that people probably have just had enough of. Look at the V-12 1992 140s as one 
example. Lots of BMWs, too. Every car has it's own story, no doubt.


The number of Ford Explorers scrapped is the highest which is no surprise, 
both 2WD and 4WD. One 1997 Rolls-Royce and 13 Porsches, and not one 911.


RLE
  





  



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Re: [MBZ] Removing, was: Balancing a drive shaft, etc.

[OK Don]

Good, because that's how it's installed now. It's all put back together -
but I won't know till the commute tomorrow how it runs at speed.

On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 2:57 PM, Peter Merle  wrote:

> diese seite zu gelenkw - translates to this side towards driveshaft.
> Getriebe is gearbox, kw has nothing whatsoever to do with power in this
> context
> Peter
>
>
> --
> OK Don
> CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
> distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
> others.
> The Devil's Dictionary
> Ambrose Bierce
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[Rich Thomas]

A quick googling "montgomery ward Power kraft  table saw manufacturer"  
(note spelling) turned up this  
http://www.toolcenter.com/woodworking_links.html


*Toolkraft National Service and Parts Center 
<http://www.toolkraft.com/>* - We offer service and parts for Toolkraft,
Darra James, Powerkraft for Montgomery Ward, and Duramark, (for T.Eaton) 
power tools.

We are located at:
*3 Craftsman Rd
East Windsor, CT 06088
860-623-1781 or 413-737-7331
Parts Order Desk M-F,  9AM - 5PM EST*
e-mail us at *pa...@toolkraft.com* <mailto:pa...@toolkraft.com>

--R

Loren Faeth wrote:
Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?  I 
read about them online once, and it seems there is quite a following  
of the manufacturer's saws in the East.  Now I can't find the article 
or remember the name of the manufacturer.  I seem to recall the 
company was two surnames.


Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] Removing, was: Balancing a drive shaft, etc.

[Peter Merle]

diese seite zu gelenkw - translates to this side towards driveshaft.
Getriebe is gearbox, kw has nothing whatsoever to do with power in this
context
Peter

2009/9/27 OK Don 

> My thanks to all - I'll install it with the writing towards the shaft ---
>
> On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 10:15 PM, Craig McCluskey  >wrote:
>
> > On Sat, 26 Sep 2009 19:57:50 -0500 OK Don  wrote:
> >
> > > THe only clues I see are the following molded into one side of the disk
> > > - "DIESE SEITE Z. GELENKW"  I'm guessing that it translates into "This
> > > side to ?"
> > >
> > > The on-line translators give "GELENKW" as the English equalivilent, as
> I
> > > suspected they would.
> >
> > http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt says "Gelenkwelle" is
> > "Drive Shaft". (It also says "driveshaft" is "Getriebewelle", but that's
> a
> > different story.)
> >
> > Anyway, "DIESE SEITE Z. GELENKW," means, "This side toward driveshaft."
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> --
> OK Don
> CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
> distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
> others.
> The Devil's Dictionary
> Ambrose Bierce
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> >
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Removing, was: Balancing a drive shaft, etc.

[OK Don]

My thanks to all - I'll install it with the writing towards the shaft ---

On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 10:15 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

> On Sat, 26 Sep 2009 19:57:50 -0500 OK Don  wrote:
>
> > THe only clues I see are the following molded into one side of the disk
> > - "DIESE SEITE Z. GELENKW"  I'm guessing that it translates into "This
> > side to ?"
> >
> > The on-line translators give "GELENKW" as the English equalivilent, as I
> > suspected they would.
>
> http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt says "Gelenkwelle" is
> "Drive Shaft". (It also says "driveshaft" is "Getriebewelle", but that's a
> different story.)
>
> Anyway, "DIESE SEITE Z. GELENKW," means, "This side toward driveshaft."
>
>
> Craig
>
-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[LWB250]

Check out the resources at OWWM - Old Wood Working Machines.  I have done some 
restorations of old equipment, and have found it to be the best resource for 
such things on the Web.  You might have to join the forums (no charge) and post 
a question...

www.owwm.com

Dan

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Loren Faeth  wrote:

> From: Loren Faeth 
> Subject: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw
> To: "mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 12:22 PM
> Does anyone know who made the Monkey
> Ward Powercraft table saws?  I read about them online
> once, and it seems there is quite a following  of the
> manufacturer's saws in the East.  Now I can't find the
> article or remember the name of the manufacturer.  I
> seem to recall the company was two surnames.
> 
> Loren Faeth 
> 
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


  


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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[Jim Cathey]

Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?


PowrKraft?  My dad bought a lot of that.  MW had a nice
store in Portland that always treated him pretty well,
and he loved that he could go and buy parts for a 20+ year
old tool at their service counter.

name of the manufacturer.  I seem to recall the company was two 
surnames.


Smith & Wesson?  :-)

-- Jim



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[MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

[Loren Faeth]

Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?  I 
read about them online once, and it seems there is quite a 
following  of the manufacturer's saws in the East.  Now I can't find 
the article or remember the name of the manufacturer.  I seem to 
recall the company was two surnames.


Loren Faeth 



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[MBZ] Balancing ceiling fans WAS: Balancing a drive shaft

[Loren Faeth]

I have static balanced fan blade by weighing each blade, and adding 
weight.  I use washers rather than quarters.  a little cheaper!  This 
does not take into account any imbalance in the motor/blade 
mounts.  Your dynamic balancing does that.  But, as you indicated, it 
is not always straightforward.  THe static balance gets you close, 
then it can be supplemented, if necessary, with the dynamic balance.


At 10:36 AM 9/27/2009, you wrote:

Craig McCluskey  writes:

>> It describes adding thicker nuts or larger washers on the rear flex disk
>> mounting bolts to balance the rear section of the drive shaft - by trial
>> and error.
>
> Yup, it sure does. Could be a real drag to get right!

Sounds like my attempts to balance ceiling fans by taping quarters to
the backs of the blades that I think are too light.  It is pure trial
and error.  You can study the wobble of the fan and think you know where
the weight needs to go, but often as not my intuition is incorrect.


--
1983 300D

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] howto for oil cooler line replacement?

[Loren Faeth]

Glad to hear you were able to pull it off without a major hitch.  The 
assembly/tightening sequence you describe is correct.


At 10:17 AM 9/27/2009, you wrote:

Finally got to this job yesterday... it's actually went better than I
expected.  I had no trouble removing the old lines.  I had treated the
fittings with the acetone/ATF mix a couple of times over the past few
weeks.  I don't know if that helped, but they did open up without
stripping the threads or damaging the cooler.  I used anti-sieze on the
threads when I installed the new lines.

The hardest part was getting the new lines into the clips.  My
suggestion for anyone doing this... attach the ends at the cooler first.
They have a rubber hose section so the rest of the pipe will still be
moveable.  If you attach and tighten the lines at the filter, you won't
be able to reposition them.

Once the cooler ends are attached, install the retaining clamps (one
above the AC compressor, one near the motor mount) loosely.  Then attach
the lines to the filter, but leave them loose enough that the pipes can
still move.  Tighten the retaining clamps, then the snug up the nuts on
the filter.

I also replaced my motor mounts... the trick here is to be sure the
engine is lifted high enough.  The old collapsed mounts will slide out
easily but if the engine is not high enough the new ones won't slip in.

Allan

Loren Faeth  writes:

> Allan,
>
> You will be able to detect that some of this is tongue in cheek, but
> this is how I would recommend how to go about it.  It is mostly
> serious.  If you go through all the preparation steps, it will save
> you having to stop and go acquire something else.
>
> Preparation
>
> 1.  Wash out the left side of the engine, hoses and oil cooler as well
> as you can at the carwash.  Steam cleaner is great, if you have access
> to one.  Wash upside down too.
> 2. buy a spare oil cooler.  Chances are the threads will be buggered
> up on yours, one side or the other.
> 3. get some Neverseize for the threads when you put the new hoses on.
> 4. Secure alternate transportation for a week or two if the project
> runs the normal course, and you have to wait for parts.
> 5.  Line up wrenches to fit the oil filter end (Adapter and nut) and
> the oil cooler end.
> 6. soak the oil cooler ends (nuts) with penetrating oil for 1-4 weeks
> in advance.
> 7.  Figure out a way to hold a 8-10 lb sledgehammer behind the nut
> while you whack it with a 2-4 lb hammer to loosen the corrosion.
> 8. designate a set of clothes to get covered in Diesel motor oil
> 9. buy a bag of floor dry
> 10. put the car up so you can crawl under it
> 11.  take a trial pull on the wrenches at the oil cooler fittings.
> Take care not to damage the oil cooler.  If things are normal, one
> will loosen with major effort, and the other won't.  Now you know
> which one is really corroded.
> 12. line up an air grinder with a cutoff wheel, a dremel or some
> similar way to cut through the really stuck nut.
>
> The actual job:
>
> 1.  Loosen oil filter cover  (It is a good time for an oil change)
> 2.  Loosen the nuts at the oil cooler.  Drain oil into a catch pan.
> 3.  Loosen the nuts at the oil filter
> 4.  loosen clamps that hold the hoses
> 5. remove the hoses, noting which one goes in which position and which
> one goes to which connection.  It is not easy, but it can be done.  I
> think I removed the left motor mount arm from the engine on the 240D
> to allow more room.  That means you need to support the engine from
> underneath.
> 6. install new hoses in reverse, putting neverseize on the cooler 
end threads.

>
> Simple huh?
>
> Notes:
> Plan on getting a bath in oil.
> You will need a trouble light to see the bolts on the clamps
> For the nut that is really stuck:  We assume you have already soaked
> it for a month.  Next try beating on the nut with the hammer, being
> careful not to damage the body or the oil cooler or your fingers.  the
> goal is not so much to bash the nut as to pein it many times with
> enough force that the corrosion in the threads will loosen.  Rest, Go
> at it again.  If you have an air chisel, you can accomplish this
> easier with an air chisel, but it does not have the mass of the
> hammer, so it may not loosen the corrosion.
>
> If that doesn't work:
>
> Decision time:  You will either have to throw out the oil cooler with
> attached hose and use the new used one,
> OR make a cut through the nut to try to get it to "pop" so that the
> corrosion will loosen.  This is irreversible and may result in needing
> to use the new used oil cooler
> OR you can cut the ferrule off the old hose, remove the hose from the
> hose end, leaving the hose end on the oil cooler.  Then you have to
> cut the ferrule on the NEW hose, pull out the hose end, slide the hose
> onto the old hose end.  Put a clamp on it.
>
> The hardest thing (aside form getting the stuck nut loose) is to keep
> a wrench on the aluminum lug on the oil cooler while you try to get
> that nu

Re: [MBZ] Balancing a drive shaft

[Allan Streib]

Craig McCluskey  writes:

>> It describes adding thicker nuts or larger washers on the rear flex disk
>> mounting bolts to balance the rear section of the drive shaft - by trial
>> and error.
>
> Yup, it sure does. Could be a real drag to get right!

Sounds like my attempts to balance ceiling fans by taping quarters to
the backs of the blades that I think are too light.  It is pure trial
and error.  You can study the wobble of the fan and think you know where
the weight needs to go, but often as not my intuition is incorrect.


-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] VirtualBreadboard - simulator for electronics.

[Allan Streib]

Rich Thomas  writes:

> Thanks for that, goes into my bookmarks pile for later persusal.

OT, I've started using InstaPaper for this.  You can then access them
from anywhere you happen to be, on any computer.

   http://www.instapaper.com

Allan

>
> --R
>
> Michael Esh wrote:
>> I think some people on this list may find this site interesting and
>> useful.
>> Mike
>>
>> VirtualBreadboard is an easy to use simulation and modelling tool
>> that can be used in place of a real breadboard for quickly
>> performing experiments and testing out electronic and
>> microcontroller powered 'embedded' applications.  Since 1999
>> VirtualBreadboard has been a favourite with universities
>> and enthusiasts from all around the world.
>>
>>
>> www.virtualbreadboard.com
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> 
>>  
>>
>> ___
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>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] clunker list

[Loren Faeth]

There were over 10,000 grand caravans on the list.  Close to 20,000 
if you count the crypsler version.  I called the dealer, and was told 
they didn't qualify, and sure  'nuff, after the epa dinked with the 
mileage list they magically got 19MPG rather than the prior 18.


I have a 2000 Grand caravan; if anyone wants to give me $3500, or 
$4500 for it, it is yours.


At 08:33 PM 9/25/2009, you wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://www.cars.gov/files/official-information/trade-in-vehicles.pdf
check out some of the MB's that got clunked.  Simply unbelievable.


"As submitted, not necessarily reviewed or approved"

Now, my understanding of the rules was they had to be old, but not 
older than 1984, and combined MPG of 18 or less. I'm seeing a lot of 
cars that I was sure didn't qualify, and a few that only a moron 
would crush for $4500, unless it was so decrepit that it would be an 
embarrassment to put on the road.


How about that DB7?
For the clunker deal, they'd have to be running/driving. What's a 
running DB7 parts car go for these days, $10,000?


One each 1991 M5 and 1991 M3. How in the world did the M3 qualify, I 
thought the overall MPG was in the 20-22 range, just like a 2.3-16?


Who would sell a 2005 Mazda RX-8 for $4500 or less? And since when 
did 2005 model cars qualify?


I thought my 2.3-16 was too fuel efficient to qualify, but here I 
see a clunked 1989 190D, and a 1993 190E 2.3, and a 1992 300D 2.5t. 
Why would we crush 30-35mpg diesels to replace them with 'fuel 
efficient' vehicles?


Don't tell Dave M, but somebody clunked a '92 500E.

What moron would try to clunk a 2008 9-3 Aero, for crying out loud?
Salvage value on a totaled car's got to be at least $4500.
But I wonder what the salvage yard would pay after you clunked the 
engine and then the feds failed your application for rebate?


TVR 280i, don't see one of those every day.

Mitch.

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] howto for oil cooler line replacement?

[Allan Streib]

Finally got to this job yesterday... it's actually went better than I
expected.  I had no trouble removing the old lines.  I had treated the
fittings with the acetone/ATF mix a couple of times over the past few
weeks.  I don't know if that helped, but they did open up without
stripping the threads or damaging the cooler.  I used anti-sieze on the
threads when I installed the new lines.

The hardest part was getting the new lines into the clips.  My
suggestion for anyone doing this... attach the ends at the cooler first.
They have a rubber hose section so the rest of the pipe will still be
moveable.  If you attach and tighten the lines at the filter, you won't
be able to reposition them.

Once the cooler ends are attached, install the retaining clamps (one
above the AC compressor, one near the motor mount) loosely.  Then attach
the lines to the filter, but leave them loose enough that the pipes can
still move.  Tighten the retaining clamps, then the snug up the nuts on
the filter.

I also replaced my motor mounts... the trick here is to be sure the
engine is lifted high enough.  The old collapsed mounts will slide out
easily but if the engine is not high enough the new ones won't slip in.

Allan

Loren Faeth  writes:

> Allan,
>
> You will be able to detect that some of this is tongue in cheek, but
> this is how I would recommend how to go about it.  It is mostly
> serious.  If you go through all the preparation steps, it will save
> you having to stop and go acquire something else.
>
> Preparation
>
> 1.  Wash out the left side of the engine, hoses and oil cooler as well
> as you can at the carwash.  Steam cleaner is great, if you have access
> to one.  Wash upside down too.
> 2. buy a spare oil cooler.  Chances are the threads will be buggered
> up on yours, one side or the other.
> 3. get some Neverseize for the threads when you put the new hoses on.
> 4. Secure alternate transportation for a week or two if the project
> runs the normal course, and you have to wait for parts.
> 5.  Line up wrenches to fit the oil filter end (Adapter and nut) and
> the oil cooler end.
> 6. soak the oil cooler ends (nuts) with penetrating oil for 1-4 weeks
> in advance.
> 7.  Figure out a way to hold a 8-10 lb sledgehammer behind the nut
> while you whack it with a 2-4 lb hammer to loosen the corrosion.
> 8. designate a set of clothes to get covered in Diesel motor oil
> 9. buy a bag of floor dry
> 10. put the car up so you can crawl under it
> 11.  take a trial pull on the wrenches at the oil cooler fittings.
> Take care not to damage the oil cooler.  If things are normal, one
> will loosen with major effort, and the other won't.  Now you know
> which one is really corroded.
> 12. line up an air grinder with a cutoff wheel, a dremel or some
> similar way to cut through the really stuck nut.
>
> The actual job:
>
> 1.  Loosen oil filter cover  (It is a good time for an oil change)
> 2.  Loosen the nuts at the oil cooler.  Drain oil into a catch pan.
> 3.  Loosen the nuts at the oil filter
> 4.  loosen clamps that hold the hoses
> 5. remove the hoses, noting which one goes in which position and which
> one goes to which connection.  It is not easy, but it can be done.  I
> think I removed the left motor mount arm from the engine on the 240D
> to allow more room.  That means you need to support the engine from
> underneath.
> 6. install new hoses in reverse, putting neverseize on the cooler end threads.
>
> Simple huh?
>
> Notes:
> Plan on getting a bath in oil.
> You will need a trouble light to see the bolts on the clamps
> For the nut that is really stuck:  We assume you have already soaked
> it for a month.  Next try beating on the nut with the hammer, being
> careful not to damage the body or the oil cooler or your fingers.  the
> goal is not so much to bash the nut as to pein it many times with
> enough force that the corrosion in the threads will loosen.  Rest, Go
> at it again.  If you have an air chisel, you can accomplish this
> easier with an air chisel, but it does not have the mass of the
> hammer, so it may not loosen the corrosion.
>
> If that doesn't work:
>
> Decision time:  You will either have to throw out the oil cooler with
> attached hose and use the new used one,
> OR make a cut through the nut to try to get it to "pop" so that the
> corrosion will loosen.  This is irreversible and may result in needing
> to use the new used oil cooler
> OR you can cut the ferrule off the old hose, remove the hose from the
> hose end, leaving the hose end on the oil cooler.  Then you have to
> cut the ferrule on the NEW hose, pull out the hose end, slide the hose
> onto the old hose end.  Put a clamp on it.
>
> The hardest thing (aside form getting the stuck nut loose) is to keep
> a wrench on the aluminum lug on the oil cooler while you try to get
> that nut off without getting the oil cooler messed up beyond repair.
>
> If anyone sells a flare nut wrench of that size, it would be worth the
> money.  I don't remember 

Re: [MBZ] Snook??

[Hendrik & Fay]

Nahh, the senior partners get the new luxomobile and Don gets to finally 
fill the tank up in the beemer.


Hendrik

Loren Faeth wrote:
That sounds like every shyster's dream!  A client with a big positive 
bank balance and a more or less blank check for fees!


SNook will be buying a new BMW in 4 weeks or so

At 07:34 PM 9/19/2009, you wrote:
My instructions are something along the lines of "scorched earth" or 
full steam ahead, or "ramming speed" or "Damn the torpedos!"  or more 
colloquially, "Go kick their ass!"


Loren Faeth






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