Re: [MBZ] griots correction

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
Gotta love tail drops in the transmit queue!


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On Dec 15, 2010, at 20:01, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote:

 Or it makes it there too quickly and excess gets dropped, which is sometimes
 my problem.
 
 Walt
 On Dec 15, 2010 8:00 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:
 www.griots.com..
 
 Data stored in brain does not always make to typing fingers.
 
 RLE
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] griots correction

2010-12-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Yep, buffer overrun due to excess sensory input also is bad, especially when
the watchdog timer is set to 15 minutes when it happens... hellooo
brainwarp!

Walt
On Dec 16, 2010 6:14 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
I'd think it indicates that they are a problem; disconnect the GP relay on the 
good one to find out.

BTW, GP relays can completely and utterly fail yet still be able to light the 
light; it seems to happen to the ones that have small slotted head screws 
holding the case together; one at each corner of the side with all the 
electrical connections.  The two halves of the case have a gasket/o-ring 
cross-section type of seal between them which can shrink (linearly, not 
diametrically) and split, leaving a gap through which water can infiltrate.  
When this happens on the side that mounts to the car, water can get close 
enough to be drawn in by capillary action. The water gets in and shorts out the 
electronics; mine was more than half full.

(If your GP relay is glued/welded/non-openable, this failure cannot occur)

This mode of failure seems particular to instances where the GP relay is 
mounted vertically beneath the hood/fender joint (I had it happen in an '85 
300D, but not in an '84 300SD)...

I suspect that water infiltration could also be an issue with relays that were 
missing the protective cap that covers all the electrical connections; the 
plastic pin in the place of the sixth GP pin has a vent hole in the very top...

Then there are the frakko brand electrolytic crapacitors, which seem to start 
failing after 10 years or so; this is also what takes out many CC amps...

When I had two OM 617's I kept a spare GP relay (and a set of plugs) on the 
shelf.  Using and removing the injection lines, you can replace all of them, 
including the back one, in about half of an hour...


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On Dec 15, 2010, at 16:56, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Another question.  The good 300TD starts without glowing when the
 engine is warm.  The bad 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
 starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
 it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
 observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?
 
 On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Rich Thomas
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a
 notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are
 great tools.
 
 --R
 
 On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:
 
 An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the plugs
 proper.
 
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 jwrea...@comcast.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905
 
 On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich
 Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:
 
 Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84
 SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of
 glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well for
 reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it
 today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too, first
 thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff that
 you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the
 difference.
 
 Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think)
 gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily to
 loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you
 disconnect the battery first.
 
 --R
 
 On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
 adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
 Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
 after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
 started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
 to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
 time before it fired up.
 
 So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
 compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
 quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
 wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
 clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
 
 As always, TIA.
 
 Andrew
 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Scale of the Universe

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
Why do tourists tilt at windmills?

Besides, science is good for the economy; scientists are employed, and 
therefore pay taxes and buy stuff. (It also keeps them off the streets!)

Not to mention that all this wondering has led mankind to (pair to) stepping 
foot on other celestial bodies; this has required technological developments 
which have entered into our daily lives...)

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On Dec 15, 2010, at 21:58, Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com wrote:

 Somehow this baloney seems useless and nonsense.
 It does not assist me exchange my slave cylinder.
 It does not help me make my fried egg in the morning.
 Nobody will never get there and all of this 'science' is pure
 speculation based on 'tested' scientific 'methods' that have a
 semblance of rationality, but are pure speculation and mathematical
 slight of hand.
 We cannot even find peace half way around the block or half way around
 the world - why is this stuff even put up on the web?  I guess it is
 more 'science' pornography.
 mao
 
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
Check the atmospheric vent line to the fuel tank; if it has completely plugged 
(it can plug with algae inside the tank) then the tank can hold enough vacuum 
to cause air to be sucked into the lines at the engine (even new ones with new 
seals, etc), or even to collapse the tank.

You can try to remove the fuel fill cap when you shut down; you may hear air 
being sucked in, or even have to pull the cap pretty hard to get it off the 
fill tube.  Regardless, if removing and reinstalling the cap at shutdown 
remedies the hot starting issue, suspect a plugged atmospheric vent line.

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On Dec 15, 2010, at 19:21, Michael Esh michael...@me.com wrote:

 Actually i did have a hard starting problem when hot and I still have the 
 problem.  Now that it is cold again (michigan) the problem has become less of 
 an issue.  I have replaced all hoses and lines as well as installing a new 
 lift pump from Rusty and the check valve on the engine side of the injection 
 pump.  
 Mike
 
 
 On Dec 15, 2010, at 7:01 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
 
 
 Didn't someone (Micheal Esh perhaps) have a starting problem and just 
 recently 
 figured out the cause of his HOT start problem?  
 
 Rick
 
 Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:02:44 -0600
 From: b...@mts.net
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD
 
 Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like 
 it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.
 
 Randy who is no expert on diesels
 
 On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
 Another question.  The good 300TD starts without glowing when the
 engine is warm.  The bad 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
 starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
 it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
 observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] griots correction

2010-12-16 Thread John Reames
Watchdog timer? What happens when it expires and forces a reboot? Or do are you 
referring to the connection timeout instead? (connection resets seem to be very 
costly, especially when multiple context switches are involved)

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On Dec 16, 2010, at 6:23, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yep, buffer overrun due to excess sensory input also is bad, especially when
 the watchdog timer is set to 15 minutes when it happens... hellooo
 brainwarp!
 
 Walt
 On Dec 16, 2010 6:14 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
I've had good luck with the local Bosch diesel service shop - look in your
yellow pages or google them.  Also, if you've got a good independent MB
shop, they may offer that service as well.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net writes:

 After that, pull the injectors and have the compression checked and
 have the injectors tested while they're out (don't forget to use new
 heat shields when you put the injectors back in).

Does anyone know of a good injector service shop (can test, balance, and
if necessary rebuild injectors using quality components).  Or is this
something that any diesel service shop normally does fairly well?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
PGA = Potomac German Auto (now part of the LKQ Empire but still has lots of
MB stuff at fair prices and they ship.

http://www.pgauto.com/

-Max



-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 2:27 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

 David Bruckmann wrote:

 I'm not sure what rough shape means.

I opened it up, with the plan to replace the shaft seal.

The shaft is stuck in the cover and the cover bushing-to-shaft
is _way_ to loose.  And the shaft has worn grooves, and scoring
from the body bushing.

The pump from the parts car is actually in better shape - except
the seal grooves are deeper.

Both, I suspect, ran for a considerably amount of time without
sufficient clean oil in the system. :(

I haven't bought used parts since Atlanta Stutgard closed shop...

Is there a respectable used parts supplier?

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  You'll 
have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes out of the 
motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW assembly must be 
removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly technical 
terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow storm 
tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.  
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.  

Anyone BTDT?

TIA - 
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Did you forget to paste in the URL?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

This website has a excellent explanation of the different bulbs - their 
wattage, useage, etc along with images of many different lens'.Very 
informative.  This guy makes a great relay kit for Porsche (and others) 
headlights so they can take more power safely.

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: relng...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 8:14 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

 ..Isn't the lamp lens customized for lighting patterns in different
 countries? Maybe 4 was the US pattern?..

It is for right or left hand traffic.

Beyond that, the beam patterns with H-4s have been the same for decades.
For the one example I know about, the stock headlights in my '95 W202 C280
used H-4 (100/160W) bulbs producing the Euro beam pattern with the low beam
sharp cutoff which is the same beam pattern my 2008 C300's Bi-Xenon low 
beams
have.

And the old Cibie Z-Beams in my Porsche with JC Whitney 100/160W H-4s (four
relays) have the exact same pattern.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] griots correction

2010-12-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Till the WDT forces a reboot, you kinda just stand there. When it
triggers, you get a what happened? moment, with that slightly fuzzy
feeling that's kind of like you had a shot ot two, and ten seconds later
you've forgot it even happened.

Walt, who's wet  cold, but made 
On Dec 16, 2010 7:00 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
 Watchdog timer? What happens when it expires and forces a reboot? Or do
are you referring to the connection timeout instead? (connection resets seem
to be very costly, especially when multiple context switches are involved)

 --
 John W Reames
 jwrea...@comcast.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Dec 16, 2010, at 6:23, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yep, buffer overrun due to excess sensory input also is bad, especially
when
 the watchdog timer is set to 15 minutes when it happens... hellooo
 brainwarp!

 Walt
 On Dec 16, 2010 6:14 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

What do you lube it with?

On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  You'll 
have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes out of the 
motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW assembly must be 
removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly technical 
terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow storm 
tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.  
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.

Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
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-
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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--
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 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Scale of the Universe

2010-12-16 Thread WILTON

So, does that somebody WILL get there?;

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Scale of the Universe



Somehow this baloney seems useless and nonsense.
It does not assist me exchange my slave cylinder.
It does not help me make my fried egg in the morning.
Nobody will never get there and all of this 'science' is pure
speculation based on 'tested' scientific 'methods' that have a
semblance of rationality, but are pure speculation and mathematical
slight of hand.
We cannot even find peace half way around the block or half way around
the world - why is this stuff even put up on the web?  I guess it is
more 'science' pornography.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
I'm not sure of the official lube; I used some plain old wheel bearing grease 
on my '95, and it still is too slow.  I'm not sure if that is the grease or a 
problem with the motor.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:12 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

What do you lube it with?

On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
 cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
 catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  
 You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes out 
 of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
 assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
 Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
 Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

 Hi Gang,
 My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly technical 
 terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow storm 
 tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

 Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.  
 It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
 much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
 worry.

 Anyone BTDT?

 TIA -
 LarryT
 91 300D
 ___
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

2010-12-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
Andrew does NOT have a spare SLS pump, but IS seeking a 1985 300TD engine.

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 7:24 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 PGA = Potomac German Auto (now part of the LKQ Empire but still has lots of
 MB stuff at fair prices and they ship.

 http://www.pgauto.com/

 -Max



 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Fmiser
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 2:27 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

 David Bruckmann wrote:

 I'm not sure what rough shape means.

 I opened it up, with the plan to replace the shaft seal.

 The shaft is stuck in the cover and the cover bushing-to-shaft
 is _way_ to loose.  And the shaft has worn grooves, and scoring
 from the body bushing.

 The pump from the parts car is actually in better shape - except
 the seal grooves are deeper.

 Both, I suspect, ran for a considerably amount of time without
 sufficient clean oil in the system. :(

 I haven't bought used parts since Atlanta Stutgard closed shop...

 Is there a respectable used parts supplier?

 --    Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Allan Streib
Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil or ATF?



On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 09:44 -0500, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 I'm not sure of the official lube; I used some plain old wheel bearing
 grease on my '95, and it still is too slow.  I'm not sure if that is the
 grease or a problem with the motor.
 
 -Max
 
 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:12 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124
 
 What do you lube it with?
 
 On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
  Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
  cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
  catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  
  You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
  out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
  assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.
 
  -Max
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
  On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
  Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124
 
  Hi Gang,
  My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
  technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
  storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?
 
  Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the 
  glass.  It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the 
  mechanism as much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit 
  better.  But I worry.
 
  Anyone BTDT?
 
  TIA -
  LarryT
  91 300D
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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  -
  No virus found in this message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3317 - Release Date: 12/15/10
 
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
   91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
   85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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Re: [MBZ] hose heater versus block heater?!!

2010-12-16 Thread Greg Fiorentino
I have no experience with these on a Mercedes diesel (living in the mild PNW
now), but when I was living in upstate NY I installed a hose heater on my
Volvo 122S.  I would power it up when I got up in the morning, leaving it on
for about an hour.  The car would start right up and the heater and
defroster would blow warm as soon as the engine started up.  Installation
was easy.  As long as the heater was installed vertically convection would
carry the heated water throughout the engine in short order.

I can't imagine anything better or easier than this for an add-on.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Chris N John
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 8:27 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] hose heater versus block heater?!!

Hi, everyone
We too are having issues with our car starting this winter (1980 300 
SD). Hubbie put about 4 different hose heaters on it last winter. The 
last one finally worked once or twice. (We won't mention the local car 
parts store) We tried it again in November and it seemed to be doing 
fine and then the morning we had appointments to keep 80 miles away and 
temp was -20, guess what? Yep-- it didn't work at all. We made it to 
appointments, but used up our easy travel margin of time for sure!!
So, my question is: the block heaters sound more dependable and 
efficient but hubbie is concerned about problems installing in the old 
car. He thinks it will be hard to seal up after removing the old plug, 
which seems to be another big concern, too. Any feedback from you 
experts? Should we keep trying the hose heaters, and is there one that 
really works long term?? Thanks for advice!
Wishing you all a Wonderful Christmas Season and a Great New Year to 
come, Christy
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124 (KALEB -- Need your help)

2010-12-16 Thread l02turner

Hello Kaleb,
Pls see my reply to Allan.   re: the lubricant - the can said Lubricant. 
I know, I should be more picky.  But I was trying to help the WW in 
preparation of a small snow storm moving through today and that was all I 
could find.


Thx Kaleb - Hopefully you have one for a low price ---

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:11 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

What do you lube it with?

On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the 
plastic cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there 
are two catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop 
off.  You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which 
comes out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the 
entire WW assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.


-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?


Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the 
glass.  It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the 
mechanism as much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit 
better.  But I worry.


Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
___
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3317 - Release Date: 12/15/10


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread andrew strasfogel
Thanks - I will definitely try this at home!

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 6:45 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
 Check the atmospheric vent line to the fuel tank; if it has completely 
 plugged (it can plug with algae inside the tank) then the tank can hold 
 enough vacuum to cause air to be sucked into the lines at the engine (even 
 new ones with new seals, etc), or even to collapse the tank.

 You can try to remove the fuel fill cap when you shut down; you may hear air 
 being sucked in, or even have to pull the cap pretty hard to get it off the 
 fill tube.  Regardless, if removing and reinstalling the cap at shutdown 
 remedies the hot starting issue, suspect a plugged atmospheric vent line.

 --
 John W Reames
 jwrea...@comcast.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Dec 15, 2010, at 19:21, Michael Esh michael...@me.com wrote:

 Actually i did have a hard starting problem when hot and I still have the 
 problem.  Now that it is cold again (michigan) the problem has become less 
 of an issue.  I have replaced all hoses and lines as well as installing a 
 new lift pump from Rusty and the check valve on the engine side of the 
 injection pump.
 Mike


 On Dec 15, 2010, at 7:01 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:


 Didn't someone (Micheal Esh perhaps) have a starting problem and just 
 recently
 figured out the cause of his HOT start problem?

 Rick

 Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2010 16:02:44 -0600
 From: b...@mts.net
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

 Didn't someone suggest air leakage into the fuel lines? That sounds like
 it may not be getting fuel - assuming it has reasonable compression etc.

 Randy who is no expert on diesels

 On 15/12/2010 3:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
 Another question.  The good 300TD starts without glowing when the
 engine is warm.  The bad 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
 starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
 it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
 observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?


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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread l02turner

Hi Max,
The movement is slow and sounds like it's on a dry surface - even though I 
wet it down.I removed the cover you mentioned and lubed the shaft under 
the cover - helped a little.


See my reply to Allan where I discuss Rusty's phone call.  Sounds like we 
both have a new transmission in out future.   I'm starting a search for a 
used one at Rusty's suggestion... New one's are over $500.


Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon

Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:41 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off. 
You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.


-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?


Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass. 
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.


Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
___
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Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

2010-12-16 Thread l02turner

Hi Max --  You asked forget to paste in the URL

Probably, I'm famous for that ;-)

Try this:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

Sorry 'bout that!  ;-)

Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon 
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:42 AM 
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries. 


Did you forget to paste in the URL?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

This website has a excellent explanation of the different bulbs - their 
wattage, useage, etc along with images of many different lens'.Very 
informative.  This guy makes a great relay kit for Porsche (and others) 
headlights so they can take more power safely.


LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: relng...@aol.com

Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 8:14 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.


..Isn't the lamp lens customized for lighting patterns in different
countries? Maybe 4 was the US pattern?..


It is for right or left hand traffic.

Beyond that, the beam patterns with H-4s have been the same for decades.
For the one example I know about, the stock headlights in my '95 W202 C280
used H-4 (100/160W) bulbs producing the Euro beam pattern with the low beam
sharp cutoff which is the same beam pattern my 2008 C300's Bi-Xenon low 
beams

have.

And the old Cibie Z-Beams in my Porsche with JC Whitney 100/160W H-4s (four
relays) have the exact same pattern.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
PGA may be our friend - see my earlier post with their URL.

On my foray to the pick-n-pull a few weeks ago, I noticed that all the MB WW's 
had been violently stripped of their motors.  Very sad - all the transmission 
arms bent, all the plastic/rubber covers ripped and broken off.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 3:42 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Max,
The movement is slow and sounds like it's on a dry surface - even though I 
wet it down.I removed the cover you mentioned and lubed the shaft under 
the cover - helped a little.

See my reply to Allan where I discuss Rusty's phone call.  Sounds like we 
both have a new transmission in out future.   I'm starting a search for a 
used one at Rusty's suggestion... New one's are over $500.

Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:41 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off. 
You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass. 
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.

Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Allen,

Yes, grease undoubtably too thick.  I think that some type of silicon lubricant 
has been recommended.  ATF would probably work fine too, just keep it away from 
the glass and wiper.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 11:49 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil or ATF?



On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 09:44 -0500, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 I'm not sure of the official lube; I used some plain old wheel bearing
 grease on my '95, and it still is too slow.  I'm not sure if that is the
 grease or a problem with the motor.
 
 -Max
 
 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:12 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124
 
 What do you lube it with?
 
 On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
  Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
  cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
  catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  
  You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
  out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
  assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.
 
  -Max
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
  On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
  Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124
 
  Hi Gang,
  My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
  technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
  storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?
 
  Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the 
  glass.  It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the 
  mechanism as much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit 
  better.  But I worry.
 
  Anyone BTDT?
 
  TIA -
  LarryT
  91 300D
  ___
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  -
  No virus found in this message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3317 - Release Date: 12/15/10
 
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
   91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
   85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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[MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake caliper,
and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to lower
it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.

 

I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the bolt)
in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush on
the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do this
part of the job).

 

Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie rod
from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming in
the next box of goodies from Rusty.

 

Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to replace
the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool or
a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool, but
I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but we
probably won't have to wait for that.

 

If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain you
all with a happy ending later tonight!

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Rich Thomas
You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I 
guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.  
Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.


--R

On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake caliper,
and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to lower
it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the bolt)
in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush on
the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do this
part of the job).



Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie rod
from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming in
the next box of goodies from Rusty.



Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to replace
the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool or
a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool, but
I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but we
probably won't have to wait for that.



If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain you
all with a happy ending later tonight!



Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles

'73 Balboa 20





___
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http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I was thinking more like ATF, wheel bearing grease would be way 
too think.


On 12/16/2010 10:48 AM, Allan Streib wrote:

Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil or ATF?





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread WILTON

Yeah, really smart stuff.  ;)))

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124



I was thinking more like ATF, wheel bearing grease would be way too think.

On 12/16/2010 10:48 AM, Allan Streib wrote:
Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil or 
ATF?






--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
will be a good project for the Christmas break.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I 
guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.  
Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread WILTON
Maybe I should go down for a weekend and let you do mine and take you and 
your young ladies to dinner a coupla times.   ;))


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga



Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
will be a good project for the Christmas break.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake

caliper,

and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to

lower

it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the

bolt)

in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier. 
On

this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush

on
the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the 
hole

with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do

this

part of the job).



Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie

rod

from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming

in

the next box of goodies from Rusty.



Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to

replace

the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool

or

a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,

but
I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the 
warranty.

Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but

we

probably won't have to wait for that.



If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain

you

all with a happy ending later tonight!



Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles

'73 Balboa 20





___
http://www.okiebenz.com
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Sure, I'll be free in February, my rate is only $55 per hour plus expenses.

I think that if I'd only done the spring link bushings and the camber link
on this car, all my troubles would have been solved.  Replacing them all
removes any doubt, and now I shouldn't have to touch them for another 150k
miles or so.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 6:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Maybe I should go down for a weekend and let you do mine and take you and 
your young ladies to dinner a coupla times.   ;))

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga


 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
 guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
 Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
 caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
 lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
 bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier. 
 On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
 on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the 
 hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
 this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
 rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
 in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the 
 warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
 you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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To search 

Re: [MBZ] wiper innards

2010-12-16 Thread RELNGSON
 ...What do you lube it with?..
 
Ru-Glyde.

RLE
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[MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread archer75
 Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not Snow Leopard is an  
improvement over OSX 10.5.6 which came installed in my refurbished  
MacBook?

Thanks,
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread Allan Streib
Probably is.  Here is the list of enhancements

http://www.apple.com/macosx/refinements/enhancements-refinements.html



On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:23 -0500, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:
   Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not Snow Leopard is an  
 improvement over OSX 10.5.6 which came installed in my refurbished  
 MacBook?
 Thanks,
 Gerry
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread archer75
Quite a few improvements so I'll load it.  Windows finally irritated  
me enough that I
got the Mac out and am starting to learn it.  Sort of like learning a  
new language

since it's so different than WindowsXP.
Thanks,
Gerry

On Dec 16, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Allan Streib wrote:


Probably is.  Here is the list of enhancements

http://www.apple.com/macosx/refinements/enhancements-refinements.html



On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:23 -0500, archer75  
arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not Snow Leopard is an
improvement over OSX 10.5.6 which came installed in my refurbished
MacBook?
Thanks,
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread OK Don
Good news indeed! Enough other projects have risen, that I won't be getting
to the rear end again untill well into Jan. I might even wait for warm
weather (I'm getting softer in my olf age).

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 4:06 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.

 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Fred Moir

Kaleb, et al.
Herr Doktor marshall advocated M1 ATF on the sliding shaft. I have used 
it and it works to this day.


Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 12/16/2010 5:46 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I was thinking more like ATF, wheel bearing grease would be way too 
think.


On 12/16/2010 10:48 AM, Allan Streib wrote:
Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil 
or ATF?








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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Rich Thomas
Google Blogspot lets you set up a blog, you can post pictures and text 
and whatever.


--R

On 12/16/2010 5:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
will be a good project for the Christmas break.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake

caliper,

and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to

lower

it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the

bolt)

in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush

on

the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do

this

part of the job).



Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie

rod

from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming

in

the next box of goodies from Rusty.



Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to

replace

the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool

or

a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,

but

I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but

we

probably won't have to wait for that.



If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain

you

all with a happy ending later tonight!



Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles

'73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

send it to me and I will put it up

On 12/16/2010 4:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
will be a good project for the Christmas break.

-Max


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread Gary Hurst
my core 2 duo mini ran faster on snow leopard than leopard.  it's been a
while though for snow leopard so i wonder if something new will come down
the pike soon enough

On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 8:20 PM, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Quite a few improvements so I'll load it.  Windows finally irritated me
 enough that I
 got the Mac out and am starting to learn it.  Sort of like learning a new
 language
 since it's so different than WindowsXP.
 Thanks,
 Gerry
 

 On Dec 16, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

  Probably is.  Here is the list of enhancements

 http://www.apple.com/macosx/refinements/enhancements-refinements.html



 On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:23 -0500, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com
 wrote:

  Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not Snow Leopard is an
 improvement over OSX 10.5.6 which came installed in my refurbished
 MacBook?
 Thanks,
 Gerry


 ___






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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread Allan Streib
Leopard was a bit of a dog.  I never upgraded my old G4 PowerBook from Tiger 
because I had heard from several sources that Leopard didn't perform well at 
all on the G[45] processors.

Snow Leopard, of course, is Intel-only anyway.  So I'm stuck with Tiger on the 
PowerBook.  It's fine for that platform, and Apple is still providing updates 
for it (though I would guess that will end at some point).

Allan


On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:50 -0500, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:
 my core 2 duo mini ran faster on snow leopard than leopard.  it's been a
 while though for snow leopard so i wonder if something new will come down
 the pike soon enough
 
 On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 8:20 PM, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com
 wrote:
 
  Quite a few improvements so I'll load it.  Windows finally irritated me
  enough that I
  got the Mac out and am starting to learn it.  Sort of like learning a new
  language
  since it's so different than WindowsXP.
  Thanks,
  Gerry
  
 
  On Dec 16, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
 
   Probably is.  Here is the list of enhancements
 
  http://www.apple.com/macosx/refinements/enhancements-refinements.html
 
 
 
  On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:23 -0500, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com
  wrote:
 
   Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not Snow Leopard is an
  improvement over OSX 10.5.6 which came installed in my refurbished
  MacBook?
  Thanks,
  Gerry
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

2010-12-16 Thread RELNGSON
Oh oh.

Not Ru-Glyde, but Sil-Glyde. Had a tube of it for decades. Defintely 
superior to something that will run to the bottom.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread Tim C
Leopard was faster on Intel, slower on PPC, from what I read.
Daughter has Tiger on her G4, wife has Leopard on her Intel, and no
one is hounding me about upgrading the OS.  At release time I gathered
that snow leopard was mostly a security and stability bump rather than
a significant change to the user experience.

10.7 looks like it could be interesting, will we finally see a
normal consumer laptop with a standard touchscreen?
http://www.apple.com/macosx/lion/

Rumored summer '11, I saw somewhere.  Personally I would wait (am
waiting :) but neither of my Maccers is a power user.

-Tim
what comes after lion?



On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 12:22 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 Leopard was a bit of a dog.  I never upgraded my old G4 PowerBook from Tiger 
 because I had heard from several sources that Leopard didn't perform well at 
 all on the G[45] processors.

 Snow Leopard, of course, is Intel-only anyway.  So I'm stuck with Tiger on 
 the PowerBook.  It's fine for that platform, and Apple is still providing 
 updates for it (though I would guess that will end at some point).

 Allan


 On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:50 -0500, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:
 my core 2 duo mini ran faster on snow leopard than leopard.  it's been a
 while though for snow leopard so i wonder if something new will come down
 the pike soon enough

 On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 8:20 PM, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com
 wrote:

  Quite a few improvements so I'll load it.  Windows finally irritated me
  enough that I
  got the Mac out and am starting to learn it.  Sort of like learning a new
  language
  since it's so different than WindowsXP.
  Thanks,
  Gerry
  
 
  On Dec 16, 2010, at 7:47 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
 
   Probably is.  Here is the list of enhancements
 
  http://www.apple.com/macosx/refinements/enhancements-refinements.html
 
 
 
  On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 19:23 -0500, archer75 arche...@embarqmail.com
  wrote:
 
   Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not Snow Leopard is an
  improvement over OSX 10.5.6 which came installed in my refurbished
  MacBook?
  Thanks,
  Gerry
 
 
  ___
 
 
 
 
 
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread Allan Streib
On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 00:41 -0500, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:

 10.7 looks like it could be interesting, will we finally see a
 normal consumer laptop with a standard touchscreen?
 http://www.apple.com/macosx/lion/

Full-screen apps on a Mac is a radical change for Apple.  They have never done 
that, and even the maximize button on a Mac application has never made the 
window full-screen (rather it just optimizes the window size).

Allan




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Re: [MBZ] OT: Snow Leopard vs OSX 10.5.6

2010-12-16 Thread Fmiser
 Tim wrote:

 what comes after lion?

Siamese tom cat

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

2010-12-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I'm not sure if it would work in this case, but permatex silicone dielectric
grease works wonders as a lubricant as well.

Walt
On Dec 17, 2010 12:40 AM, relng...@aol.com wrote:
 Oh oh.

 Not Ru-Glyde, but Sil-Glyde. Had a tube of it for decades. Defintely
 superior to something that will run to the bottom.

 RLE
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