Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Good point! -Max From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 3:19:49 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix Just use a 1 heater hose (or some similar size) long enough to go to the spot and your ear. --R On 3/3/2011 2:38 PM, Max Dillon wrote: When my tick was quiet, no one but I could hear it. I need to get a mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight. -Max ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Peter - great idea - yes the o-rings on the oil filter tube are recent, however you remind me that the tube in this car has some gouges/damage in the top half, so maybe I need to add replace oil filter tube to the list of things to try before pulling the head. The noise has come and gone with the same tube in place, so I don't think this all of the problem but it might be contributing? I wonder if the tube from my '95 could be swapped in? EPC knows all... I bought the car on Ebay and it had no service records, so I've no idea if the head gasket has ever been touched. I've never had a compression check done, and I'm not inclined to pay for one just for this problem. Yes, I'm aware of the hydro-lock risk. -Max From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 6:34:51 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix First, do you have good o-rings on the center bolt? If not, chances are you will have much less noise after you replace them. However, a new head gasket (and new head bolts) isn't a bad idea if you don't know when the last one was done -- they DO leak, and a low compression injector knock sounds a lot like a bad tappet... A compression test is the cheap and cheerful way to decided -- if you have a few low but not bad cylinders, especially if they are adjacent, suspect a bad gasket. Note that a failure at the cross passage in front of #1 will cause excessive oil consumption and the scary possibliity of oil hydrolocking the cylinder, with attendant thrashed rods and crank. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
EPC says same oil return tube for '95 E300, so I'll try swapping that to see if it has any affect. -Max From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 6:34:51 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix First, do you have good o-rings on the center bolt? If not, chances are you will have much less noise after you replace them. However, a new head gasket (and new head bolts) isn't a bad idea if you don't know when the last one was done -- they DO leak, and a low compression injector knock sounds a lot like a bad tappet... A compression test is the cheap and cheerful way to decided -- if you have a few low but not bad cylinders, especially if they are adjacent, suspect a bad gasket. Note that a failure at the cross passage in front of #1 will cause excessive oil consumption and the scary possibliity of oil hydrolocking the cylinder, with attendant thrashed rods and crank. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Alex, have you watched the videos from the link that Rolf posted? The first has noise exactly like my car. https://picasaweb.google.com/olefejer/W124300TurboDieselUdskiftToppKning# -Max From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 2:15:49 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. Max, is there any way you can post an audio file to the list? My 603 car has occasionally made clicky noises that seem to be coming from the vicinity of the valve cover, and I always wonder if they qualify as valve tick (of course they never happen when my indy or anyone else is around to hear). It would be nice to hear someone else's engine for corroboration. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... -Max From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 2:02:18 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix I lay good money on the head gasket. I and others have (had) the same problem. Check the video here : http://superturbodiesel.com/std/w124-300d-turbo-om603-ticking-noise-under-valve-t-2299.html The general recommendation from the FInns is to go with the 606 headgasket as a replacement, it will need some modification for the 603 (drill two holes). -Rolf On 03/03/2011 01:42 PM, Max Dillon wrote: Dieselvolk, My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix. I'd appreciate thoughts and input on what the problem is and how to fix it. History: I've only used Mobil 1 oil since purchasing the car about 50k miles ago, when it had about 284k miles It now has 334k miles. About 3 years ago (~20k miles ago) the tick developed after a 450 mile travel day, during which the car ran very hot but did not overheat, due to a long stop-n-go traffic jam on the freeway. Car had increased oil consumption during the trip (used about 1 qt in 500 miles, normally only uses 1 qt per 2000 miles), and the noise began the next morning upon first start. After fussing over the noise for a few days but not really doing anything other than add oil and determine that the noise originates from either the #2 or #3 cylinder valves in the head, the noise largely went away on its own. After that episode, the noise would occasionally come back if the car was exposed to cold weather (i.e. around freezing or lower), but once it was driven the noise would reduce to the point that I really had to listen hard, generally with the hood up, to see if it was still ticking. I tried testing the lifters (hydraulic valve clearance compensating elements) in accordance with the book, and they passed, but that was at a time when the lifter tick noise was reduced. The current engine oil is now 10k miles old. It is Mobil 1 5w-40, and the 5k oil analysis showed only 0.4% soot. I sent in the 10k sample last week, should have results shortly. All previous oil samples were negative for glycol (coolant) and wear metals are pretty normal in my opinion. This past January the noise came back with a vengeance after I drove the car to Baltimore, and then car sat in a freezing parking lot for a couple of weeks. I drove the car home, and since then I've only driven it a few times, but the noise is almost constant. Now it will sometimes be reduced when the engine is cold, but once the car warms up it comes right back. So here's my plan. 1) Warm up the engine and then pull the valve cover and test the lifters again using the book method. If any fail the test, replace them. Inspect the camshaft lobes for wear. 2) Change the oil. 3) Replace the lifters for #2 and #3 on principle (they're noisy). 4) Pull the head and replace the head gasket, assuming a failure at the oil passage between #1 cylinder and timing chain case, allowing oil to flow into the timing chain area and back the sump, which reduces the oil pressure to the head and causes the noise. I like this option least, because I fear finding cracks in the (number 14) head and I'm worried that if I put a cracked head back on, the cracks will worsen and I'll start burning coolant or mixing oil and coolant. Right now the upper radiator hose has normal pressure after resting overnight, and the engine oil analysis looks good, so I don't think I have problems with cracks in the head right now. Thanks for reading through all this! Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 334k miles '95 E300 280k miles '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 4:42 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Alex, have you watched the videos from the link that Rolf posted? The first has noise exactly like my car. https://picasaweb.google.com/olefejer/W124300TurboDieselUdskiftToppKning# Thanks Max. In that video, are you referring to the regular ticking at roughly 10 Hz you can hear on top of the regular diesel klatta? Mine does that now and then when started cold, but it goes away in a couple of minutes at most. (I'm using Delo 400 15W40 year-round.) If that's the valves, am I right in assuming I'm seeing (hearing) regular behavior as the hydraulic lifters take a little time to pressurize? Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Ouch. If budget permits, and you intend to keep the car indefinitely, I strongly recommend that, rather than a used one, you buy a nice new #21 head, or whatever is the latest iteration with all the bugs fixed, and have the peace of mind that you'll never have to do it again. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Max Dillon wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Depth gauge the pistons while you're in there. If the hydrolock theory explains the rodbender 3.5s, then there's no reason to think the 3.0s should be immune, just less likely to have leaky gaskets because the oil/coolant passages are farther from the cylinder bores. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Alex, Yes, compare the before and after videos (first and last). You may want to try using M1 oil for the next oil change to see if that will help; Marshall used to say that the noisy lifters would often be quieted by using M1, but it could take thousands of miles to do the job, and switching back to dino oil would immediately bring the noise back. -Max From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:22:07 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 4:42 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Alex, have you watched the videos from the link that Rolf posted? The first has noise exactly like my car. https://picasaweb.google.com/olefejer/W124300TurboDieselUdskiftToppKning# Thanks Max. In that video, are you referring to the regular ticking at roughly 10 Hz you can hear on top of the regular diesel klatta? Mine does that now and then when started cold, but it goes away in a couple of minutes at most. (I'm using Delo 400 15W40 year-round.) If that's the valves, am I right in assuming I'm seeing (hearing) regular behavior as the hydraulic lifters take a little time to pressurize? Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into this car and I certainly would be happy to keep driving it for another five or ten years. I'd really like to find a used head with #17 or later casting and keep the ~$1500 difference in my pocket. -Max From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:26:55 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Ouch. If budget permits, and you intend to keep the car indefinitely, I strongly recommend that, rather than a used one, you buy a nice new #21 head, or whatever is the latest iteration with all the bugs fixed, and have the peace of mind that you'll never have to do it again. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Good idea - anything else I should do while I'm there? -Max From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:35:29 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix Max Dillon wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Depth gauge the pistons while you're in there. If the hydrolock theory explains the rodbender 3.5s, then there's no reason to think the 3.0s should be immune, just less likely to have leaky gaskets because the oil/coolant passages are farther from the cylinder bores. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] fun time replacing alternator belts
Thanks Mitch. It's not the lid - caniser is dry. I'll check the hoses. On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: Hans Neureiter wrote: Back to the original topic: I had access to a car lift and replaced the leaking pitman shaft seal. Easy 30 min job with the car up there. The bottom of the oilfilter housing is soaked with oil. Could not tell where its coming from. Canister lid, cooler hoses, canister to block gasket. The first fixes itself when you change the filter (unless the lid is warped) The second is a common cause of premature OM617 death. The last can probably remain a slow leak for a long time. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX '82 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
If you do that, I call dibs on your old head. If the existing head is not cracked, why replace it? There are many 14 heads that run hundreds of thousands of miles. Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into this car and I certainly would be happy to keep driving it for another five or ten years. I'd really like to find a used head with #17 or later casting and keep the ~$1500 difference in my pocket. -Max From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:26:55 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Ouch. If budget permits, and you intend to keep the car indefinitely, I strongly recommend that, rather than a used one, you buy a nice new #21 head, or whatever is the latest iteration with all the bugs fixed, and have the peace of mind that you'll never have to do it again. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Yes, remember that new #22 head is really going to cost upwards of $4k when you throw in valves etc. Reman #17 or better is the way to go. Personally, just start with the headgasket and have the head inspected and work from there. While the head is off you can hand lap the valves as well if everything checks out OK. I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in hand -Rolf. On 03/04/2011 10:24 AM, Max Dillon wrote: Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into this car and I certainly would be happy to keep driving it for another five or ten years. I'd really like to find a used head with #17 or later casting and keep the ~$1500 difference in my pocket. -Max From: Alex Chamberlainapchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:26:55 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Ouch. If budget permits, and you intend to keep the car indefinitely, I strongly recommend that, rather than a used one, you buy a nice new #21 head, or whatever is the latest iteration with all the bugs fixed, and have the peace of mind that you'll never have to do it again. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Perhaps a 606 head gasket and careful application of Johnny Berryman's favorite gasket lube? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Hylomar174;-Universal-Blue-Racing-Formula-Gasket-Dressing--Flange-Sealant-Permatex_7740008-P_N2132_T|GRP2132 Mitch. Rolf wrote: I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in hand -Rolf. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 11:17:58 -0500 Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote: I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in hand hg? def? copper? Please explain Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
I think hg = head gasket, def = definitely. I believe I can't order any hg until I pull the head and determine whether or not it gets milled, as there are different thicknesses of hg, no? -Max From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 12:37:48 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 11:17:58 -0500 Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote: I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in hand hg? def? copper? Please explain Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] compression testing
The thread on the tick suggested compression testing and that got me to wondering about doing one. Anyone have good advice on testing an old 300D 115 normally aspirated engine? Am I correct that one must remove the injectors and use those holes for the tester? What happens with the diesel fuel that should then be shooting out all over at high pressure when one is testing? How does one stop that? I bought a compression tester a couple of years back but it is sitting in the tool box and has yet to be used. Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
Randy, Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray. -Max From: R A Bennell b...@mts.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 1:00:44 PM Subject: [MBZ] compression testing The thread on the tick suggested compression testing and that got me to wondering about doing one. Anyone have good advice on testing an old 300D 115 normally aspirated engine? Am I correct that one must remove the injectors and use those holes for the tester? What happens with the diesel fuel that should then be shooting out all over at high pressure when one is testing? How does one stop that? I bought a compression tester a couple of years back but it is sitting in the tool box and has yet to be used. Randy ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
Max Dillon wrote: Randy, Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray. And if you put a mityvac on the shutoff solenoid or hold down the stop lever, there should be no fuel dripping. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
Curt, You finally said something that clicked with me. Is the slave cylinder in this car smaller or larger in bore and length of bore then the slave cylinder in the car that the master cylinder came out of? Also, if the rod isn't connected to the pedal can you pull up on the peddle and raise it higher then the position it is in with the rod connected? Or did we go over this while I wasn't paying attention in class? Manfred Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 15:25:37 -0800 (PST) From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod *sigh* this is sounding so much more complicated than it seems like it ought to me. I think what I need now is the measurement off your existing, not-in-the-car rod since it sounds like the opposite of what I have. The one in my car now is a matched set in that it came from my '83 which is where I guess I'm confused now. The slave cylinders are not the same between the two cars, what about the pedal assembly? Can I move the pedal from the '83 to the '78? *Frustrated* -Curt ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
Thanks guys. Good to know. Anything else you can think of that I need to know? I think I bought the spacers, shields, whatever they are called that one puts in behind the injectors so would replace them too I guess. Any likelyhood that I will have trouble getting the injectors out? I seem to recall people talking about carbon etc. Or am I confusing that with the glowplugs? When does one use the reamer doodad? Does my engine have the removable pre-combustion chambers or whatevers behind the injectors (sorry but I am not sure that is what they are called). Do I recall someone talking about slidehammers to remove? Why would one remove them?? Lots of questions and very little knowledge except for what I hear on here as this is my one and only diesel and I do not have any local friends who have done this sort of thing. Randy On 04/03/2011 12:11 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Max Dillon wrote: Randy, Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray. And if you put a mityvac on the shutoff solenoid or hold down the stop lever, there should be no fuel dripping. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
My tester, and the snap-on tester I used go into the GP holes. In some cases, it is hard to test compression on #3 if the IP is set close to the head. There is not enough room to get the adapter in the hole and a hose on the adapter. This is the same on OM engines from 1959 up to the OM603 at least. I believe it is the same on the 606, but I am not sure about that. Thanks guys. Good to know. Anything else you can think of that I need to know? I think I bought the spacers, shields, whatever they are called that one puts in behind the injectors so would replace them too I guess. Any likelyhood that I will have trouble getting the injectors out? I seem to recall people talking about carbon etc. Or am I confusing that with the glowplugs? When does one use the reamer doodad? Does my engine have the removable pre-combustion chambers or whatevers behind the injectors (sorry but I am not sure that is what they are called). Do I recall someone talking about slidehammers to remove? Why would one remove them?? Lots of questions and very little knowledge except for what I hear on here as this is my one and only diesel and I do not have any local friends who have done this sort of thing. Randy On 04/03/2011 12:11 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Max Dillon wrote: Randy, Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray. And if you put a mityvac on the shutoff solenoid or hold down the stop lever, there should be no fuel dripping. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
You need a 27mm deepsocket and it has to be really deep, the ones at autozoo will not do the trick. Kobalt from lowes did. I evenetually bought the hazet proper tool for the job. You ream anytime you take the gp out. I like using the injector holes as it requires less work IMO. The heat shields can be problematic to get out if they are stuck but usually turning over the engine will pop them out, watch it as sometimes they have quite the velocity. Engine should be warm and you should give it a full 8 cycles. I disagree with the statement about the quantity of fuel that comes out. It is certainly enough to spray high. Whatever happens make sure you dont get subcutaneous injection of diesel or you will have to have said appendage removed! -Rolf On 03/04/2011 04:01 PM, R A Bennell wrote: Thanks guys. Good to know. Anything else you can think of that I need to know? I think I bought the spacers, shields, whatever they are called that one puts in behind the injectors so would replace them too I guess. Any likelyhood that I will have trouble getting the injectors out? I seem to recall people talking about carbon etc. Or am I confusing that with the glowplugs? When does one use the reamer doodad? Does my engine have the removable pre-combustion chambers or whatevers behind the injectors (sorry but I am not sure that is what they are called). Do I recall someone talking about slidehammers to remove? Why would one remove them?? Lots of questions and very little knowledge except for what I hear on here as this is my one and only diesel and I do not have any local friends who have done this sort of thing. Randy On 04/03/2011 12:11 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Max Dillon wrote: Randy, Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray. And if you put a mityvac on the shutoff solenoid or hold down the stop lever, there should be no fuel dripping. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
Oh an you will need new injector return lines. A word of advice, but them about 1 longer than you need them to be. Then when it fails on you in the middle of nowhere with 200miles to the next diesel station you can simply cut the end off and put the hose back on... -Rolf On 03/04/2011 04:01 PM, R A Bennell wrote: Thanks guys. Good to know. Anything else you can think of that I need to know? I think I bought the spacers, shields, whatever they are called that one puts in behind the injectors so would replace them too I guess. Any likelyhood that I will have trouble getting the injectors out? I seem to recall people talking about carbon etc. Or am I confusing that with the glowplugs? When does one use the reamer doodad? Does my engine have the removable pre-combustion chambers or whatevers behind the injectors (sorry but I am not sure that is what they are called). Do I recall someone talking about slidehammers to remove? Why would one remove them?? Lots of questions and very little knowledge except for what I hear on here as this is my one and only diesel and I do not have any local friends who have done this sort of thing. Randy On 04/03/2011 12:11 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Max Dillon wrote: Randy, Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray. And if you put a mityvac on the shutoff solenoid or hold down the stop lever, there should be no fuel dripping. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
I have mixed and matched slave cylinders from all kinds of w123's with no ill effect. They should all be the same. If you have a longer one it is from the v8 as the bellhousing placement pull its further away. Infact right now I believe both the slave and master on my 123 are from 201. I assume the 78 is a 123? All 123 pedal assemblies mix and match as well. -Rolf On 03/03/2011 06:25 PM, Curt Raymond wrote: *sigh* this is sounding so much more complicated than it seems like it ought to me. I think what I need now is the measurement off your existing, not-in-the-car rod since it sounds like the opposite of what I have. The one in my car now is a matched set in that it came from my '83 which is where I guess I'm confused now. The slave cylinders are not the same between the two cars, what about the pedal assembly? Can I move the pedal from the '83 to the '78? *Frustrated* -Curt Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 13:14:23 -0600 From: Fmiserfmi...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod Message-ID:20110303131423.bc729542.fmi...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Curt Raymond wrote: Interesting. You got yours to work with the long rod though? Mine works its just that the clutch pedal is obnoxiously high. The pedal worked fine with a short-rod piston an a long rod - but would not bleed and it probably would not work long term 'cause no fluid could get past the piston. The opposite should do better. A short rod and a long-rod piston. This should result in clutch that engages with the petal nearly at the top of it's travel. Sounds like yours, I think. I do remember that the short rod which got thrown away didn't snap and at first I thought that was part of my problem. On mine, the _long_ rod has no snap and the short one does. Could this be an ATE/Bendix like issue? Two suppliers with different details but the set is interchangeable? Do you still have your short rod? Could I borrow it? It'd be MUCH easier to make a short rod correctly the first time (its a PITA getting it in there) if I had one to match it up to. But I'm beginning to think you need the _long_ rod. Yeah, I do still have it. It's on the car. :) I think. I usually take notes when I do projects like this. But I guess I didn't do a thorough enough job. So I'm mentally reconstructing the process. The clutch in the '80 was leaking. I pulled it out, leaving the rod in place. The cylinder was in pretty rough shape, so I went to the parts cars. The '81 looked good from the outside, so I pulled it out - again leaving the rod. That cylinder cleaned up well. I honed the bore, cleaned out the junk, and put in in the '80. I was unable to bleed it, though. The system will bleed only if the piston is at the top of it's travel. So I'm concluding I must have had a long rod on a short-rod piston, thus preventing the piston from moving to the top. I then installed the rod from the '81 parts car and then the circuit bled fine. So, my spare is a matched pair - a kinda grudge cylinder and a long rod with no ball. I remember encountering a rod with a ball that snapped into a socket on the piston. Since that is _not_ the one in the cardboard box, it must be the one on the car. :) The dates to not match up with what EPC and your experience suggest - so maybe the clutch I took out of the '80 wasn't original. --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] compression testing
On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 15:01:41 -0600 R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote: I think I bought the spacers, shields, whatever they are called that one puts in behind the injectors so would replace them too I guess. It's a good idea. Any likelyhood that I will have trouble getting the injectors out? Usually they are no problem. I seem to recall people talking about carbon etc. Or am I confusing that with the glowplugs? When does one use the reamer doodad? You're confusing that with the glowplugs, which is when the reamer doodad (or a glow plug with its end mashed flat) is used. Does my engine have the removable pre-combustion chambers or whatevers behind the injectors (sorry but I am not sure that is what they are called). Yes, it does have prechambers; it's an indirect-injection engine. Do I recall someone talking about slidehammers to remove? Yes, the prechambers are what is difficult to get out. Why would one remove them?? If they have been damaged in some way, typically cracking from using ether to start the car, or a damaged ball on the ball pin. I replaced all of the ones on our car on general principles (and the fact that whoever had the injectors out earlier did not put any injector heat shields in when he put things back together). Lots of questions and very little knowledge except for what I hear on here as this is my one and only diesel and I do not have any local friends who have done this sort of thing. That makes it harder, but we are here to help. And if you put a mityvac on the shutoff solenoid or hold down the stop lever, there should be no fuel dripping. Good idea! Something you need to do if you are testing compression. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to purchase their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came with injectors and chambers. Luther KB5QHUOak Park, IL '87 300SDL (312,xxx mi) '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi) On 3/4/2011 10:17 AM, Rolf wrote: Yes, remember that new #22 head is really going to cost upwards of $4k when you throw in valves etc. Reman #17 or better is the way to go. Personally, just start with the headgasket and have the head inspected and work from there. While the head is off you can hand lap the valves as well if everything checks out OK. I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in hand -Rolf. On 03/04/2011 10:24 AM, Max Dillon wrote: Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into this car and I certainly would be happy to keep driving it for another five or ten years. I'd really like to find a used head with #17 or later casting and keep the ~$1500 difference in my pocket. -Max From: Alex Chamberlainapchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:26:55 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Ouch. If budget permits, and you intend to keep the car indefinitely, I strongly recommend that, rather than a used one, you buy a nice new #21 head, or whatever is the latest iteration with all the bugs fixed, and have the peace of mind that you'll never have to do it again. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Fwd: Need CARFAX Check done please, if any can manage it
Begin forwarded message: From: Joe Sasser joesas...@me.com Date: March 4, 2011 4:47:08 PM CST To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Need CARFAX Check done please, if any can manage it VIN#WDBCA45D1GA256289 Need a carfax, trying to get a history of it before I hand over the dough. Thanks for any/all help. Joe Sent from my iMac ૐ Got Milf? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Change of plans: restoring Marlene Diederich... a new blog
I nearly sold my 1975 W115 300D last week, but I got annoyed with a no-show buyer so I have reconsidered the whole thing. Bottom line: I love the car too much to part with it. So I have a new project, and... leaping into the 21st Century with my son Brian's urging, I have started a blog to chronicle the process. I have even given her a name, finally, as you will see. That is a first for me. Please cut me some slack on this blog stuff, since it is all new to me, being a 20th---and sometimes a 19th--- Century guy. But, damn the torpedoes Full Steam Ahead! (Rear Admiral David G. Farragut, lashed to the rigging of the USS Hartford at the Battle of Mobile Bay, August 5, 1864). http://mercedesdieselrebuildingdiederich.blogspot.com/ Tom Schuch SE Connecticut 1975 W115 300D Marlene Diederich and all those BMWs ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Benz Hogs wrote: What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to purchase their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came with injectors and chambers. It would be expensive if the proper prechambers were not included. Did you need to change injection lines too? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Change of plans: restoring Marlene Diederich... a new blog
That's great, one less W115 rusting away and going to the crusher! I hate no show buyers, or those who come out and spend 20 minutes driving it around and poking under the hood only to say That isn't really what I wanted. I had this happen a few days ago with an RC car I had for sale, and it looks like I'll be keeping that one too. Did you spell it Diederich rather than Dietrich on purpose? Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Expensive w/o the prechambers, you are correct, but mine included chambers and injectors. The angle difference was not enough that I needed to change the injector lines, they remain the original '87 lines from the 14 head. Luther KB5QHUOak Park, IL '87 300SDL (312,xxx mi) '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi) On 3/4/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Benz Hogs wrote: What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to purchase their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came with injectors and chambers. It would be expensive if the proper prechambers were not included. Did you need to change injection lines too? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
That was a replacement head already. -Rolf On 3/4/2011 5:32 PM, Benz Hogs wrote: What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to purchase their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came with injectors and chambers. Luther KB5QHUOak Park, IL '87 300SDL (312,xxx mi) '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi) On 3/4/2011 10:17 AM, Rolf wrote: Yes, remember that new #22 head is really going to cost upwards of $4k when you throw in valves etc. Reman #17 or better is the way to go. Personally, just start with the headgasket and have the head inspected and work from there. While the head is off you can hand lap the valves as well if everything checks out OK. I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in hand -Rolf. On 03/04/2011 10:24 AM, Max Dillon wrote: Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into this car and I certainly would be happy to keep driving it for another five or ten years. I'd really like to find a used head with #17 or later casting and keep the ~$1500 difference in my pocket. -Max From: Alex Chamberlainapchamberl...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:26:55 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as Coolant additives are present. The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket is now the plan... Ouch. If budget permits, and you intend to keep the car indefinitely, I strongly recommend that, rather than a used one, you buy a nice new #21 head, or whatever is the latest iteration with all the bugs fixed, and have the peace of mind that you'll never have to do it again. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Need CARFAX Check done please, if any can manage it
VIN#WDBCA45D1GA256289 Need a carfax, trying to get a whole history of it before I hand over the dough. Thanks for any/all help. Joe ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] W123 valve stem seals replacement
For anyone on the list who has experience replacing W123 valve stem seals, I obtained a new set of these and before I tear into things I need to ask what the purple spiral striped plastic tubular thingies are for as the procedure (05-270) from the W123 engine workshop manual doesn't mention these. TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Valve stem seals 030311.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 750495 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://mail.okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20110303/91080f35/attachment.jpg ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 valve stem seals replacement
Iirc you use those to protect the seal as you slide it on, like you use the cup for the front main seal on a 61x engine. Lube up, insert gently, slide over valve, seat it, carefully remove plastic tube. Someone correct me if I got the procedure wrong, my brain is in wheelspin mode right now. Walt On Mar 4, 2011 10:38 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote: For anyone on the list who has experience replacing W123 valve stem seals, I obtained a new set of these and before I tear into things I need to ask what the purple spiral striped plastic tubular thingies are for as the procedure (05-270) from the W123 engine workshop manual doesn't mention these. TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Valve stem seals 030311.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 750495 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://mail.okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20110303/91080f35/attachment.jpg ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '78 240D clutch rod
Rolf wrote: I have mixed and matched slave cylinders from all kinds of w123's with no ill effect. They should all be the same. If you have a longer one it is from the v8 as the bellhousing placement pull its further away. Infact right now I believe both the slave and master on my 123 are from 201. I assume the 78 is a 123? All 123 pedal assemblies mix and match as well. But not sub-assemblies. As a pair, the clutch master cylinder and pedal rod can be swapped with another. But only as a match pair. Rod from one and a cylinder from another could result in a pedal to piston distance mismatch. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
