[MBZ] Selling my 67 Diesel Fintail

[Bob Hamilton]

I've decided to sell my 67 200D.  You can see the listing at:   
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170717541131?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_500wt_1413

Pictures at:   https://picasaweb.google.com/112041357579669403334/Rolf67200D   
and   
https://picasaweb.google.com/112041357579669403334/Mercedes200DAppraisalPictures

I'm going to miss it - it is a cool car to drive..  Bob

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[MBZ] 74 - 450SL

[Bob Hamilton]

I bought a 450SL today.  (Pictures at: 
https://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/Mercedes450SL)   It's in decent shape - 
only paid $2500 so I shouldn't lose anything on it.  It runs nicely - nice 
growl to it.  It needs a bit of body work but way less than the 67 200D.

Here's how I wound up with it:  About a month ago, I had the 200D in to have 
the valves adjusted and told my mechanic friend that I would really rather have 
a convertible.  He said - I've got just the car for you - it's out back.  It 
was his lawyer's car and hadn't been registered for 6 years.  I have another 
friend who is an auto wrecker so I got a good battery for it for $20.  I took 
it for a short drive today and am riding my bike in tomorrow to drive it home.  
(always good to have back up transportation when you're driving a car for the 
first time - it's about 40 km from my house)

I am going to sell the 200D - it looks great and runs great.  Everything is not 
perfect but it's pretty good for a 67 car!  I haven't listed it yet but plan to 
put it on eBay and local Kijiji.  Pictures at:  
https://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/Rolf67200D

Does anyone know of an email list for 450SL owners?

Thanks.  Bob in Spruce Grove, just west of Edmonton, Alberta.
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Re: [MBZ] Instrument cluster for 67 200D

[Bob Hamilton]

Thanks for the comments.  I had thought I would wire around it - I had checked 
the fuse and had replaced all the bulbs.

Now I have a confession - I decided that since I didn't really know how many 
miles were on the car, I would turn the speedometer back to 0.  I had done 
it successfully when I finished the restoration on my Willys.  So I did it on 
the 200D as well - it didn't go quite as smoothly as with the Willys and I was 
a little sceptical as to whether I had it back together properly.  It worked 
for a few miles and then quit.

So, I'm thinking that if I can round up a whole new instrument cluster, I'll 
use it and not touch the odometer!  Bob
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[MBZ] Instrument cluster for 67 200D

[Bob Hamilton]

I can't seem to get my instrument cluster to behave properly.  I think the 
problem is the dimmer switch - the dash lights don't work.  The speedometer 
isn't working either.  So I'm wondering if anyone might have a parts car with 
an instrument cluster in it?Pictures of the car are at:  
http://picasaweb.google.ca/hamibob/Rolf67200D#

Thanks     Bob

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[MBZ] 115 Turn signal?

[Bob Hamilton]

I was struggling with getting one of my signal lights working as well.  I have 
a 67 200D (pictures at:  http://picasaweb.google.ca/hamibob/Rolf67200D# )  I 
also changed the bulbs and assumed that the new bulb was making good contact.  
I finally discovered the bulb wasn't making a good connection where it was 
seated.  I sanded down the contacts (it was the upper that I couldn't easily 
see that was the problem) and now it is working fine.

Do you have a 12 Volt test light?  That is very helpful in knowing for sure 
that the signal is making it to the bulb.  If it was working briefly, I would 
say that the problem is likely similar to mine.

Electricity doesn't terminate at the bulb - it flows to the bulb on one side 
connector, through the filament, making it glow and then out the other side to 
ground.

  .  Bob
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Re: [MBZ] [db] Rolf the 200D/51 Willys

[Bob Hamilton]

That is my 51 Willys - I had to pull it out of the way to get the 200D out of 
the workshop so it oversaw the pictures.  I've had it since 1980.  Now, you've 
seen my two restorations.  There are a few more pictures of the Willys at:  
http://picasaweb.google.ca/hamibob/WillysTruck#

Also, I think I have figured out that my signal light problem is the switch on 
the column.  I kind of suspected it - it would only hold on the one side.  I am 
operating a bit on theory but the fact that there was something wrong with it 
anyway prompted me to get a new one.  I ordered a new one this morning from the 
dealership.  

Here's the theory - power goes through the fuse to the flasher to the switch in 
the steering column.  When the switch is activated on the left side, everything 
works as it should - power goes to the lights and the flasher does it thing as 
power is flowing.  When it is activated on the right side, the switch is 
defective and the power doesn't flow.  I am going to test it by putting a live 
wire on the lead to the right side and see if the light illuminates - then I 
know that the wiring is O.K.  Since the back lights are also sharing the brake 
light duty with signals, the brake lights on the one side haven't been working 
properly either.  This again points to the switch as it controls the brake 
lighting as well.  I think anyway.

I find it amazing that I can go to a Mercedes dealership and they can look up 
the part and then that they can actually order one in for me.  I replaced all 
the door rubbers that way.  The parts guy this morning told me that it was in 
Germany and that it looked like he could get it for me.  It is not cheap but 
the fact that they can still get it has to be worth something!

.  Bob

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 05:53:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Hoffman 
Subject: Re: [db] Rolf the 200D

Bob!

  Who's 50's vintage Willys is that in the background of one of those
pics?!?!?

;)

Jim


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[MBZ] Turn signal help

[Bob Hamilton]

I thought I would start a new email for this one.  I think this is the only 
thing that I need to get fixed in order for the 200D to pass an inspection.  
Here's what is happening.


1.   The turn signal on the left (driver) side is working fine and normal 
both front and rear.

2.   The hazard lights are working normally on the left side and the right 
side at the back - not working on the front right side.  It actually seems to 
be a different flasher that is being used.

3.   When I put on the right signal, I get a fast flashing going on the 
back right, nothing on the front.

4.   I did have all the lights out.  When reassembling, I noticed a frayed 
wire on the right side front and replaced it.  There is a little black box at 
the front (maybe a relay?) that it plugs into.

5.   The bulbs are all fine.  There doesn't seem to be a signal being sent 
to the front right side.

Any guesses as to where I should look?Thanks  ...  Bob
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[MBZ] Rolf the 200D

[Bob Hamilton]

Yes, the car is named Rolf after the original owner.  His name was Rolf Seidel 
and he bought the car on Feb 8, 1968 for $5,665.  He traded in a 1967 Volvo.  I 
have the original Bill of Sale.  He passed away a few years ago and I bought 
the car from his daughter.  I checked with her and she was O.K. with me calling 
it Rolf.  In fact, she was very pleased!

I likely would run the steel wheels with the hub caps - I do have the hub caps 
but not the wheels.  I got the 4 alloy wheels (didn't know they were called 
bundts) with new GoodYears for $150 so being a good Scotsman and a bit lazy, I 
went with those.  I will keep the hubcaps.  For now, all you experts will know 
it doesn't look quite right - the rest of the world will just see a really cool 
old car.  I have posted a couple new pictures with a combo bundt/hubcap for 
your viewing pleasure at:  http://picasaweb.google.ca/hamibob/Rolf67200D#  The 
one picture also shows that I didn't quite go with the original green.  I used 
to work for Dupont and managed their auto paint business in Western Canada.  
The original green needed a bit of jazzing up so I added a bit of Chromalusion 
in the clear coat - makes is sparkle with some varying colors.

Someone asked where I live - I'm in Spruce Grove, just west of Edmonton, 
Alberta.  I've worked too hard on it for too long to sell it.  My 51 Willys 
truck that was in the background in a couple of the pictures came into my life 
in 1980.  I've had it so long I've restored it twice!  It predates our five 
children and we even have a son named Willy.  Hence, I don't part with these 
old cars easily.  I imagine it will be driven by my two younger children as 
long as I can prove it to be dependable.

I got my jumpy fuel gauge fixed.  I pulled out the sending unit from the tank 
(should have waited a little longer as I had just filled the car up recently so 
it was a bit overflowing) - actually the diesel helped to clean everything up.  
Seems to be working fine now.  I just need to get my one turn signal fixed.

Thanks for the nice comments.     Bob


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[MBZ] 67 200D wheels and extreme mods

[Bob Hamilton]

There's a story to the wheels.  The previous (original owner) had taken the 
original wheels off and put on 14" steel wheels.  I got one of the original 
wheels and since he had passed on his daughter didn't know where the others 
were.  I did get 4 original hubcaps.  I thought of welding on little tabs on 
the wheels I got to make the hub caps work.  But, a couple years ago I had a 
300D that my kids drove.  I had put new GoodYear tires on it.  The car started 
running rough and was getting real hard to start.  I replaced the injectors and 
finally took it to a friend who only works on Mercedes.  The motor was gone - 
he bought it from me for $500.  So, as I was nearing completion on the 200D, I 
needed new tires and that got me to thinking about those new tires I put on the 
300D.  I went to see him and the car was still sitting there.  He sold me back 
the wheels and tires for $150.  I did have to make a return trip to swap all 
the lug bolts as the ones for the alloy wheels need to be longer.  So, yes, 
they aren't original, but economically it was a good decision.  I didn't have 
the original wheels.  And the look, though not original, is still classic 
Mercedes.

I got a kick out of the extreme mods comments.  A couple years ago, I would 
have been delighted to have gone out to the workshop and found the car gone and 
then have the police tell me they were tracking the thief.  And then to be 
taken somewhere and been presented with a fully customized 200D with a 3.0L 
BlueTec, 7 speed transmission, leather interior, sweet sound system, etc. etc.  
Putting a Chevy or Ford would just not be right.  A new Mercedes diesel would 
be sweet.  In fact, my next work car is going to be a R320 BlueTec.  But alas, 
I don't live in California and nobody around here does that kind of stuff.  So, 
I persisted, put in a decent sound system and kept the rest original.  O.K. I 
also tinted the back windows.

I did take it for its first highway ride this morning.  It is rock solid on the 
highway.  Smooth, straight down the road.  Great visibility.  I'm still working 
to figure out my one turn signal that isn't working.  I need to get that fixed 
before I can get it to pass a safety.  All my road trips right now are illegal 
- unlicensed and unregistered.  It's kind of fun running from the law!. 
 Bob
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[MBZ] 67 200D is completed (almost)

[Bob Hamilton]

After 4 years, I have the 200D pretty much finished.  There are pictures and 
even a video with audio at:  http://picasaweb.google.ca/hamibob/Rolf67200D#

I think it looks pretty good.  I've done all the body work and painting myself 
- learned lots and had patience to get it done.  I drove it yesterday morning 
for the first time in over 4 years.

Definitely a nice car to drive.  Bob
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Re: [MBZ] Well .... looks like I'm a Mercedes owner

[Bob Hamilton]

That car appears to have the same rust issues that mine had (and still has in a 
few spots that I haven't fixed yet!).  Mine is a 67 200D and I continue to 
progress along.  Pictures are at:  
http://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/1967MercedesBenz200D

Remember the rule with rust is that there is ALWAYS more than you think!

Does anyone have a STAR for my hood ornament?  Mine is broke.  .  Bob

Bob Hamilton  O|||O
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7  (780) 462-0633  FAX
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[MBZ] 84 300D vacuum problems

[Bob Hamilton]

Trey, there is a vacuum controlled valve that shuts down fuel to the injectors 
- that is how the car turns off.  My guess is that your problem has nothing to 
do with not enough vacuum being created, especially since you just changed the 
pump.  It is likely because you have a leak in the vacuum system.  It's not 
hard to figure out which tubes are vacuum tubes.  Follow them around, check the 
"Y's" and all the connections - some may need replacing or you may be able to 
tape them up to make sure you have vacuum.  The valve for fuel shut down is on 
the drivers side.  I had the same problem and found that it was because one of 
the vacuum tubes had come out of a "Y".

The most tangible test for no leaks is the door locks, especially how long they 
continue to work after the car is shut down..  Bob  (sold my 300d still 
have the 67 200D)

Bob Hamilton  O|||O
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[MBZ] Mechanics lien - need advice

[Bob Hamilton]

I am Executive Director at the Alberta Motor Vehicle Industry Council (AMVIC).  
We license 6000 businesses that are selling and repairing vehicles in the 
province of Alberta.  We also register 9000 sales people.  We have 15 
investigators that mediate consumer complaints.  We are funded by the licensing 
fees that we levy.  Our function used to be done by the Provincial government - 
they weren't doing a great job at it so between them and industry, AMVIC got 
created in 1999.  Our mediation last year added up to about $4 million.  We 
refuse to grant licenses and cancel them as well.  We lay charges for operating 
without a license.

So, if you were in Alberta, you would complain to us, we would assign an 
investigator and he would find some common ground.  If the business has 
committed a fraud, he can lay a charge under the Criminal Code.

We have found that since we were formed, industry has learned that there is a 
fairly significant consequence if they "cross the line".  I am certainly not 
naïve enough to think that it is fixed but I think we are making an impact in 
making businesses more honest and making them think twice before they "pad" a 
repair.

Most states have a consumer affairs type office that performs a function 
similar to us - I don't know them well but that might be an avenue to explore.

And I am progressing quite nicely in the restoration of my 67 200D (pictures at 
bottom link below).   .   Bob

Bob Hamilton  O|||O
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Re: [MBZ] 1967 200D labor of love

[Bob Hamilton]

Yes, before I close up the rocker panels, I coat the inside with a rust 
inhibitor type paint.  On the drivers side, I replaced the whole rocker so it 
was easy to coat but on the passenger side, it's a bit better so I'm patching 
the rocker rather than replacing it entirely.  Fortunately(?), the holes are 
big enough that I can get in there and clean it up and then slop the paint 
around.  By the time I am done, I will have coated the whole bottom of the car 
and all the parts where rust of any type is visible.  I'm doing it primarily 
with a paint brush.  (I won't use a paint brush for the outside!)



I don't weld around the whole panel that I am replacing for a couple reasons.  
First, continuous welding causes warping.  Second, it is plenty strong enough 
by tacking every few inches.  Third, a lot of the stuff that I am welding to 
isn't always real strong.  I typically cut out anything that is weak but the 
old metal isn't as easy to weld to as the new stuff - quite easy to blow holes 
if you aren't careful.  Fourth, the original rocker panels are not continuous 
welded - they are tack welded every few inches.



So, I tack it so that it is strong.  Then I grind it down a bit, then put on 
some seam sealer to close the all the holes that are left.  Next, I'll apply 
some bondo in places that I want to look pretty and will be painting the car 
color.  Inside the wheel wells, underneath and the inside, I'll put on some 
high build rockerguard type coating.  That will nicely hide my bad welding!
..  Bob



Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 13:56:54 -0600

From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1967 200D labor of love



It looks like a good project! I saw some surface rust behind the panels you cut 
out - did you use anything like POR in there before closing it up? Did you run 
complete beads around the replacement panels, or leave them tacked in place, 
and sealed them with body filler?



Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007

From: Bob Hamilton ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1967 200D labor of love



The pictures of my progression to date are at: 
http://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/1967MercedesBenz200D

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[MBZ] 1967 200D labor of love

[Bob Hamilton]

I bought this car 3 years ago from the daughter of the original owner, Rolf 
Seidel.  He had bought it new in Red Deer on February 8, 1968 for $5,665.  (I 
have the Bill of Sale.)  It was located on a ranch west of Red Deer, Alberta 
and had spent it's whole "life" there.   Rolf passed away a number of years ago 
and his daughter, who had being storing it and driving it occasionally decided 
it was time to find a new home for it.

We knew each other through a work connection.  We were at a Christmas function 
and  another fellow and I were talking about our old vehicles - his a 56 Chevy 
and mine a 51 Willys pickup  (http://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/WillysTruck)  
She mentioned that she had an old car she was wanting to sell - our ears perked 
up.  I subsequently went and looked at it, decided to buy it and then drove it 
home to Spruce Grove, west of Edmonton - about 2 hours.  They had recently had 
the motor rebuilt so it drives nicely - no power, not much speed but smooth.  
At least that's what I remember as I haven't driven it for 3 years!

Once I got it in the workshop, I discovered that the rust was quite a bit worse 
than what I originally thought (isn't it always!).  I worked on it a bunch when 
I first got it and then have not been too motivated to do much until the last 
couple weeks.  Now, I'm moving nicely in getting the rusty metal cut out, 
fabricating new pieces, welding them in and getting it ready to paint.  I 
thought I'd share with you where I am at.  I had noticed some discussion about 
welding lately - I'm guessing none of you are welding like what  I am doing!

The pictures of my progression to date are at:   
http://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/1967MercedesBenz200D

Wish me luck!!.  Bob

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Re: [MBZ] Cyclistas

[Bob Hamilton]

The number you should put in is 2070 for that size wheel/tire.  I use a
POLAR Heart rate monitor when I cycle - you can check out my graph from
last week at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob/CyclingGraphs/photo#5129009519207867
826

I just sold my TREK Pilot to my brother and am buying a Madone 5.2.
There are pictures of my 67 Mercedes at that website as well.   
Bob


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[MBZ] Things you notice on a bicycle

[Bob Hamilton]

I've been following this thread with interest.  I live near Edmonton,
Alberta and cycle about 37 km to work as often as I can.  About half is
on the highway where I have a nice shoulder and the second half is
through the city where I experience all variations of where to ride a
bike.  The best part of the ride is about a 5 km stretch on a nice wide
bike path in the valley of the North Saskatchewan river.  It is wide
enough to be used by walkers, bikes, roller bladers, etc.  By far the
best approach for city planners is not a separate bike lane - it is to
make that right hand lane wide enough to accommodate passing cycles
without changing lanes.  Any of us that are crazy enough to be out there
are comfortable with cars passing in our lane.  I've been cycle
commuting for 35 years - it's the only thing that beats a diesel for
fuel economy!

I sold my 83 300D - I took it to a Mercedes mechanic after it still was
running very badly after I changed the injectors.  The motor was shot.
He figured that it was likely the result of the vehicle sitting for long
stretches and the oil not being changed after sitting - he said sulfur
builds up and damages the cylinder walls.  The fellow that I bought the
car from (I was the second owner) spent winters in Arizona and the car
would sit for the winter.  The body was in good shape but it wasn't
worth putting a new motor in it.  It had just over 300,000 km on it.

I still have the 67 200D that I am doing body work on.  I'll be changing
the oil on it before I get it going again!

And I'm eying pretty seriously an R320CDI as my next vehicle to replace
the Passat TDI that I currently have..  Bob

Bob Hamilton  O|||O
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[MBZ] Key help

[Bob Hamilton]

I just subscribed to this list and have a question - test the collective
knowledge right off the bat!

 

First, who am I and what am I driving.  I'm Bob Hamilton - I live near
Edmonton, Alberta.  We have 5 children and I work as a regulator in the
automotive industry in Alberta.  My vehicles:  oldest is a 1951 Willys
truck - had it since 1980 - it's a family member.  I've driven VW's for
year and a couple years ago found a Mercedes 67 200D that had been
sitting for a while.  It's rusty and I am gradually fixing that.  I
drove it home so mechanically, it's in good shape.

 

Then I was driving to work one day and saw an 83 Mercedes 300D for sale.
I looked for rust and found none, so sold the Jetta and got it for my
kids to drive.  There are pictures of the vehicles and various other
stuff at:  http://picasaweb.google.com/hamibob

 

We also have an 02 Passat Wagon and a 05 Passat Wagon TDI.

 

Now, my questions.  We only had one key for the 300D so I had a friend
who is a locksmith come over on Saturday and he made some new keys.  We
found that the ignition key and the door keys were different.  Is that
the way these cars were originally?

 

We pulled the drivers door handle off while we were making the key.
When we put it back in, I don't think we got it back in quite right.  So
my 18 year old son locked the door on Tuesday, and then when he went to
open it had to force it a bit and broke the key.  There was already a
broken key in the passenger side but I wasn't too worried about that
since the vacuum locks do work.  I disassembled the door handle and now
have the cylinder with the tumblers but my son and I can't seem to get
that broken key out.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks..   Bob