Re: [MBZ] OT: Best Porches

2010-03-20 Thread Jim Arnott

Best porches?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz82fjXqFQ4

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[MBZ] CEL - '92 2.6 190e

2010-03-05 Thread Jim Arnott
If I understand correctly, the EGR and the O2 sensor are the only  
devices that trip the CEL, right? Any thoughts on where to start  
troubleshooting? Or do I just replace the O2 sensor and the EGR?


Thanks in advance,

Jim

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Re: [MBZ] O/T Aluminum Thermal Expansion

2010-02-18 Thread Jim Arnott


On Feb 18, 2010, at 4:11 AM, Peter T. Arnold wrote:


THank-you Craig.  Even my friend Google could not find the data.

On 2/17/2010 11:08 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 16:10:41 + (UTC) pm7...@comcast.net wrote:


MAybe some one can help an old fellow who studied this 40 years  
ago and

that hit CONTROL-ALT-DELETE on his brain at a Keg-101 class the next
day.

MAterial: common Aluminum Casting such as A356

I bore a hole 1. in it at 50°

The temperature goes to 100°

What size is the hole?

The key point to remember is that EVERYTHING in the casting expands  
at

the same rate.

The thermal expansion coefficient for aluminum is
12.3 x 10^-6 in/in deg.F. So for a temperature change of 50 deg.F.,  
the
expansion is 12.3E-6 x 50 = 6.15E-4 in/in. A 1. inch hole,  
then, will

expand to 1.000614 inch.


Craig


If we discount the expansion of the drill.  The thermal effects of  
boring a hole are MUCH more complex than just the coefficient of  
expansion of the workpiece material. Hadleigh Castings quotes A356 T61  
at 11.9 x 10^-6 in/in deg F. from 68-212 deg F. http://www.hadleighcastings.com/uploads/A356.0%20Alloy%20Detail.pdf 
 Higher temp results in higher coefficients of LINEAR expansion. And  
remember, as the workpiece material heats up, the hole gets smaller,  
not larger. The material expands in all directions. So your 1.  
drill is growing as it heats and the material that you're drilling is  
also growing. I suspect that when you're all done, and return to 50  
deg F your 1. hole will measure closer to 1.0020. (It won't be  
round either.)


$32 will get the article: linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/ 
S0890695501000475 The effects of thermal distortions on the diameter  
and cylindricity of dry drilled holes 


Abstract

A model is developed to predict the effects of thermal distortion of  
the drill and workpiece on the diameter and cylindricity of dry  
drilled holes. Experiments using embedded thermocouples verify that  
the model predicts the flow of heat into the workpiece and into the  
drill reasonably well. The model predicts that thermal expansion of  
the drill is the dominant effect and leads to oversized holes with  
diameters that increase with depth.




Me? I'm too far removed from that life.  Now, I just need the the hole  
to be round and the right size. To get there, you drill undersize and  
ream/hone to correct diameter. With lots of coolant. Manufacturing  
engineering job was 20 years ago.


Jim



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Re: [MBZ] One of the problems with being an amateur mechanic etc

2010-02-09 Thread Jim Arnott


My second example relates to a DeWalt jigsaw. I bought it a couple of 
years ago when I thought my son had managed
to lose one that I have had for a long time. The old one showed up and as 
a result I did not make much use of the
new one. I was not happy with it when I did and assumed maybe I had the 
wrong blades for it. It turns out that I
have the right blades and I suspect the saw is defective. Everytime I try 
to use it, it bends the blade. I took it
back and explained and asked them to help but they no longer have that 
model and thus declined. I cannot take it to
the shop for repair as it would likely cost about what I paid for it to 
have it fixed. So, I am faced with tearing

it apart to see if I can determine what is wrong with it. Grrr!


I'd contact DeWalt directly. They have a decent reputation and seem to work 
to maintain it.


Jim



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Re: [MBZ] iBook deaths

2010-01-18 Thread Jim Arnott


On Jan 18, 2010, at 6:06 PM, Redghost wrote:

14 ibook with 1.33ghz G4, no PMU reset switch, can do PRAM, but no  
effect.  Used install disk, but all I got was the Apple logo, no  
spin, then it just froze.  Tried Apple Hardware test disk, but no  
boot, just goes to Open Firmware error.


clay




Pull the SO-DIMM under the Airport card.  Try booting on the 256 mb of  
on-board ram only.


Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Your tax dollars at work

2010-01-06 Thread Jim Arnott

Better examples

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=DA31FD9EFF1BF0BA

There's a Lockheed version too, but it's just another boat

Jim (biased. Former GD engineer)


On Jan 6, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN- 
ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:



Thanks for sharing.  Unfortunately the cost for the first one has
exceeded $500 million, not $55 million, and projections for future  
hull

costs aren't going to be anywhere close to original plans.

When I was off shore on the West Coast, early 90's, there's a location
from which mysterious vessels launched and recovered at night (it was
rumored).  Probably predecessors to this ship.

True test will be when one gets hit by a bomb, missile, or mine, and  
we

find out if there's enough Sailors on board to put out the fires and
stop the flooding.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of relng...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 11:45 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Your tax dollars at work

http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/6QlDvm/rense.com/general89/nav.htm

RLE
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[MBZ] 190e dash vents

2010-01-03 Thread Jim Arnott
 that won't close. Which is kinda a problem when it's 20 deg F  
outside. The levers that are supposed to close them do nothing.  Any  
suggestions for repair without removing the dash? Does anyone have a  
scan of the parts book that will show me the relevant pieces?


As always, thanks in advance.

Jim Arnott
Union, OR





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Re: [MBZ] 190e dash vents

2010-01-03 Thread Jim Arnott
Ya, they're all borked.  Kaleb is sending a replacement center  
section.  The others don't really matter much this time of year.


I pulled the center vents out and got the doors closed so at least  
there's no 20 deg gale through the car now.


Thanks for your help.

Jim


On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:51 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:


Sheesh ALL your vents are stuck?
The side vents should give warm air anyway...

I've never had a side one apart but the center segment is held in by  
a screw thats BEHIND one of the switches which is a super PITA  
because the switches are ment to come out from behind... I had to  
destroy the old plate (which was already broken..) to get it out...


-Curt


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[MBZ] 190e dash vents

2010-01-02 Thread Jim Arnott
 that won't close. Which is kinda a problem when it's 20 deg F  
outside. The levers that are supposed to close them do nothing.  Any  
suggestions for repair without removing the dash? Does anyone have a  
scan of the parts book that will show me the relevant pieces?


As always, thanks in advance.

Jim Arnott
Union, OR





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Re: [MBZ] 190e dash vents

2010-01-02 Thread Jim Arnott

Good plan.  Looks like the center vents just snap in.
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hires/W01331632931OES.JPG?width=300height=300

Pop 'em out and maybe I can see what's going on.

This looks a little more challenging:
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/hires/W01331623053OES.JPG?width=300height=300

Wonder how it comes loose?

Thanks for the suggestion.

Jim



On Jan 2, 2010, at 7:34 PM, harry watkins wrote:

Jim, Go to Rusty's online site, buymbparts.biz and you can see some  
of it.


Harry


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Re: [MBZ] One must ask Why?

2009-12-07 Thread Jim Arnott

My guess would be Hydraulics.

Jim

- Original Message - 
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com




Interpreter?



http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1498514925.html



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Re: [MBZ] Triple square

2009-12-01 Thread Jim Arnott

While we're on the subject

2.6 head bolts. What size XZN? 8 mm? 10 mm? It IS XZN, right?

I want to do the head gasket this weekend and I've never had a  
Mercedes cam cover off before.  What am I going to find in there?


Any other 'might not be in the toolbox' tools that I ought to know  
about?


Thanks in advance.

Jim



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[MBZ] Yet another 2.6 question

2009-11-29 Thread Jim Arnott

Head bolts: 8 mm or 10 mm triple square? (XZN)

TIA,

Jim

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-28 Thread Jim Arnott

On Nov 28, 2009, at 9:49 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:


From: Jim Arnott j...@wetwesties.org

This isn't a secret, right?

http://web.archive.org/web/20060427105508/mb.braingears.com/201_Chassis.htm



You guys know about this, right?


IIRC, it used to be a pay website. I am surprised MBUSA hasn't shut  
it down.


Rick


web.archive.com is the Wayback Machine.  Good luck closing it down.  
Might as well try to shut Google.com down.


Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Jim Arnott
Thank you all.  Detergent followed by citrus cleaner after repair.  So  
be it.


Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Jim Arnott

Thank you.  Printed and added to repair notes.

Jim


On Nov 27, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 20:37:05 -0500 Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net 


wrote:

Be carefull what you use for Detergent, it should be non  
foaming.  A
few tablespoons of TSP in fresh water will do the deed.  Drive  
about 20

miles for max cleaning and flush it out.  Follow by citric acid
cleaning.


And note that citric acid is NOT the same thing as citrus cleaner!

You really want citric acid.

BTW. The factory manual, Section 20-015, says,

==

A. De-oiling

1. Completely drain cooling system.

2. Remove thermostat element and set heater lever to warm.

3. Fill cooling system with a 5% solution of water and P3 Standard  
(made

  by Henkel) (50 grams P3 / liter of water).

  Attention: On vehicles with ALUMINUM RADIATOR, a neutral cleaner  
such

  as P3 Croni (made by Henkel) or Grisiorn 7220 (made by Farbwerke
  Hoechst) must be used instead of the heavily alcaline [sic]  
cleaner P3

  Standard.

4. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  
deg.F) and

  hold this temperature for about 5 minutes.

5. Stop engine and permit cooling system to cool down to approx. 50  
deg.C

  (122 deg.F).

6. Completely drain solution.

7. Immediately thereafter, fill cooling system twice with fresh  
water, run

  warm (approx. 5 minutes) and drain.


B. Decalcification, derusting.

ATTENTION!

Prior to decalcification, BE SURE to de-oil cooling system, even if  
there

is no visible oiling-up.

1. After second fluching job during de-oiling, fill cooling system  
with a

  10% (100 g/l) solution of water and citric acid, tartaric acid or
  oxalic acid (sold by the chemical trade), while giving preference to
  citric acid.

2. Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 deg.C (176  
deg.F) and

  hold for approx. 10 minutes at this temperature.

3. Stop engine and permit to cool down to approx. 50 deg.C (122  
deg.F).


4. Completely drain decalcification solution.

5. Flush cooling system at least three times with fresh water, while
  running engine for at least 5 minutes with each flushing charge.

  Badly calcified cooling systems may require a repetition of the
  treatment. Always prepare a fresh decalcification solution and  
repeat

  flushing steps.

6. Install thermostat element with a new seal.

7. Fill the cooling system with specified coolant specification for
  service products page 310 to 325).


NOTE: For decalcification and derusting, commercial products named  
with

 the acids nemed [sic] above may also be used.

Chromic acid or products containing chromates are prohibited by sewage
regulations.

= 
==


Pay attention that you do NOT drive your car with the thermostat  
removed.
Benz engines do not cool properly with the thermostat removed. Some  
people

have used old thermostats that have been wedged completely open with a
short piece of brass tubing (like a shell casing).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-27 Thread Jim Arnott

This isn't a secret, right?

http://web.archive.org/web/20060427105508/mb.braingears.com/201_Chassis.htm

I managed to suck up all but about 100 pages of the factory manual here.

You guys know about this, right?

Jim

On Nov 27, 2009, at 8:27 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:


On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:23:21 -0600 harry watkins
harry...@bellsouth.net wrote:


Same here, that's a keeper, thanks.


You're welcome.

I hadn't sent it earlier because of the amount of typing, but in  
between

batches of turkey soup I decided to give it a go.


Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Apostrophes [was: Re: Rotten egg smell from battery?]

2009-11-26 Thread Jim Arnott
If there break's fail, then their going to run off the end of they're  
road. If where lucky, we can figure out were there at.


Sorry, I couldn't resist.

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 10:12:56 -0500 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


So if I loose my break's or the petal's I shouldnt report that using
apostrophe's?


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[MBZ] Cleaning the cooling system

2009-11-25 Thread Jim Arnott
We have a plan Looks like the head gasket replace on the 2.6 190e  
is going to happen next weekend (Dec 4).  With a cooling system that  
is well oiled, what is the list wisdom regarding cooling system  
cleaning? Before or after the replace? Suggested products? (With as  
much oil as there is in this system, Tide might be a good choice.) I  
live where it hard freezes at night, so I think I'm either going to  
need some thing that works with coolant or I'm going to need something  
that works right now.


BTW, dau #2 effing loves the car.

Thanks in advance.

Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Car ID

2009-11-17 Thread Jim Arnott

Thank you sir.

Jim

On Nov 17, 2009, at 8:16 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:


The crushed car is a VW Crossfox built in Brazil


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Re: [MBZ] Car ID

2009-11-16 Thread Jim Arnott

Looks like a Smart to me

Jim

On Nov 15, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Not a Smart, is it?


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Re: [MBZ] Car ID

2009-11-16 Thread Jim Arnott

I stand myself corrected.  It is indeed a Scion xD.

http://www.scion.com/nextgen/

Tail lights and fuel filler match.

Jim

On Nov 15, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Not a Smart, is it?


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[MBZ] Yet another 190e question - oil pressure sender

2009-11-15 Thread Jim Arnott
Where might the oil pressure sender be located on a '92 190e w/ a 2.6  
motor?


TIA,

Jim

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[MBZ] Shop manual 190e

2009-11-13 Thread Jim Arnott
Thanks to the Wayback Machine and braingears.com I have an almost  
complete factory manual (thanks to employer for providing me a  
duplexing laser printer!) for this new to me 190.  I am missing only  
section 35 - Rear Axle.  If this is a verboten topic please say so.   
If not Does anyone have a pdf of that section of the 124/201 shop  
manual that they could share?


TIA,

Jim

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Re: [MBZ] New member intro and 190e question or two

2009-11-11 Thread Jim Arnott

I really didn't intend to start a food fight

So, as of 5 pm PST this evening I'm the proud owner of a '92 190e 2.6  
with scum in the cooling system.  I will order off a head set  
(locally. I believe in supporting local businesses) and we'll rip it  
apart in a couple weeks and see what we see.


Thanks to all who responded with educational comments. Looks like  
we're off on another learning experience. If anyone who's BTDT want to  
toss pointers this way, I'll gladly accept  the advise.


As a side note, one listmember commented, all of those motors seep  
some oil into the coolant.  What is it about German motors and head  
gaskets? The VWs I drive also have a weak cylinder head sealing  
interface


Go figure.

Thanks, and again, sorry about precipitating a ruckus.

Jim

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[MBZ] New member intro and 190e question or two

2009-11-09 Thread Jim Arnott

Good evening folks,

I am Jim Arnott, a long time VW owner (and list admin for a bunch of  
VW lists) and possibly a new used Mercedes owner. I live in NE Oregon  
and have been driving/repairing VWs most of my life.  I have an  
opportunity to pick up a '92 190e 2.6 for not a lot of money.  I have  
a single mom daughter that needs wheels and saving you all the long  
story, if we were to toss a shiny Merc her way it would please her to  
no end (and get her off my back!)


The 190 that I'm looking at has oil in the coolant so it obviously  
need a head gasket. It's also leaking at the rear of the engine and I  
expect that that may well be a head gasket issue as well. Changing out  
the gasket doesn't look like too big of project, but I do have a  
question about one part of the process.


The service manual 01.1101 I - 415/4 step 8 says Use impact extractor  
116 589 20 33 00 to withdraw slide rail pin (74).


Not having impact extractor 116 589 20 33 00 to withdraw slide rail  
pin, is there a work around? A substitute tool? Does the slide rail  
pin really need to be extracted to RR the head gasket?


Second question: From what I've gathered through the Googles, head  
gasket failure seems to be typical on the 2.6 motor at around 100k  
miles.  Is this a true statement and how likely is it that a simple  
replacement will cure its ills? There is no evidence that the motor  
has been overheated and the oil in the coolant is a relatively recent  
occurrence. The motor runs strong, has 3 bar oil pressure hot and the  
temp gauge sits right at 87 deg on a 20 mile drive at highway speeds.  
There is no cold pressurization of the cooling system so it appears  
that there is no compression leakage to the cooling system (A common  
VW problem.)


Thank you in advance for you wisdom.

Jim Arnott
Union, OR





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Re: [MBZ] New member intro and 190e question or two

2009-11-09 Thread Jim Arnott

Thanks for the replies Gary, et al;

Drove it 20 or so miles. Parked it over a piece of cardboard. 30  
minutes later I had 2 silver dollar sized spots of motor oil from the  
rear of the engine. There is no evidence of coolant leaks. The spots  
were about 6 apart perpendicular to the chassis under the rear of the  
motor. Almost like it was running down either side of the bell  
housing. Where does the 2.6 motor leak oil?If it were VW, I'd say rear  
main seal. (Additional info: 157k miles, auto trans.)


The coolant reservoir has enough oil in it to get the milk of magnesia  
look floating on the surface. I could be wrong, but it looks fairly  
significant  to me (But what do I know? That's why I'm here!)


I guess I'll give the guy his grand and take a chance. Now about  
pulling the slide rail pin(s)?


Thanks again.

Jim


On Nov 9, 2009, at 8:41 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

all of those motors seep some oil into the coolant.  is it leaking  
coolant

out the rear or oil?

imagine the coolant hasn't been changed in over a decade.  a little  
seepage

would become noticeable, no?

depending on the leak in the rear, i'd consider just changing out  
the hoses

and flushing out the cooling system.  replace it with the mercedes
forumaltion, which is xerex G05.  drive it around and see what  
happens.


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