Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Progress!  I took a look at the nearly-frozen AC idler bearing, and
removed it from the dogleg.  I then cleaned it and carefully pried out
the (hardened) rubber seal, exposing the dry bearing.  A shot of brake
cleaner loosened everything up, then I cleaned out the bearing and
blew it dry with compressed air.  I smeared in bearing grease, packing
it down in, then I pushed the seal back into place.  It won't seal too
well anymore, but it'll extend the life of this considerably.  (And I
don't need to order anything or wait for it to get here.)  It works
pretty smoothly now.

I then removed the suspension pump from the engine.  That takes a 17mm
flare wrench to remove the high-pressure line, and a 17mm socket to
remove the banjo bolt on the low.  An Allen wrench removes the four
long bolts from the face of the pump, liberating it.  You need a 13mm
socket to loosen the clamp on the high-pressure line, else you don't
have enough slack to remove the pump.  With the pump out you need to
cork the high-pressure line else the suspension oil reservoir will
empty onto the ground.  I lost quite a bit of oil before I got this
done.

With the pump out you can remove the remaining two Allen bolts (the
short ones) and pry the lid off the pump.  The shaft and cam can then
be pushed out from behind with your thumb.  I cleaned everything with
brake cleaner, it was very grimy.  I took pains to keep the four
pistons from getting dirty during this.  The three old seals (of
diverse sorts) can now be removed: scrape off the paper body seal (114
236 00 X0), chisel out the big O-ring body seal (010 997 43 45) being
careful not to damage the channel or the face, and pry out the shaft
seal (004 997 01 47).  The big O-ring was very hard, I couldn't even
tell that it had been an O-ring in the beginning, and was most likely
the source of the leak.

I then cleaned everything again and tapped the new shaft seal in
gently with a hammer.  The shaft may then be lubed and twisted back
into place.  (You need to gently pry the piston drive ring into place
to let the cam go into it while you do this.  With the shaft in place
you can then pry again to slip the brass bushing between the drive
collar and the cam, it doesn't really work to try to install it all in
one shot.)  Then I put the O-ring in the channel and bolted the cover
back on with the two bolts.  The trickiest part is getting the body of
the pump installed back on the engine with the drive ears mating with
the distributor drive while keeping the new paper seal in place.  (You
need to put the high-pressure line back on the pump first, though not
tightened down yet.)  That's not too difficult, though.  I then bolted
everything back down and reinstalled and tightened the hoses and their
braces, then sprayed everything off again with cleaner.  Done.  Today's
session was about 1-1/2 hours.

The big O-ring keeps suspension oil from leaking out of the head of
the pump.  The shaft seal keeps it from leaking into the engine
crankcase, and the paper seal keeps the engine oil (and any vagrant
suspension oil) from leaking out behind the body of the pump.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-09 Thread Jim Cathey

In another session in the evening I scraped off the gasket surfaces
and installed the water pump.  That took a long time, due to the
tenacity of the old gasket.  I tried to be careful with the razor
blade not to damage the metal surfaces.  Once done I transferred the
thermostat to the new pump, but used the new O-ring seal that came
with the pump.  (I made sure to install the jiggle valve up.)  The two
slightly-longer pump mounting bolts must go in where they came out, at
the bottom and bottom-right of the water pump where the thicker bosses
on the pump are else they'll bottom out in the holes and not clamp.  I
wire-brushed the rust off of the one very long bolt that goes through
the body before reinstalling it.  The new gasket had a small tear most
of the way through at one point, that was very distressing to find.
At least it was at the top and not the bottom, so any leak will be
very visible.  I used Permatex anaerobic sealer to goop the torn area
before reassembly, it should be fine.  I got the pump and thermostat
housings assembled, and the radiator feed fitting partially installed
before I had to quit again.

This job is turning out to be very slow!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-05 Thread Jim Cathey

I don't remember if I reported this or not, but once it was
all apart I was able to check to see if an Allen bolt would
be removable 'easily'.  Verdict: I don't think so.

I pressure-washed the area, that's as far as I've gotten
so far.  I still need to remove the suspension pump for
re-sealing.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-02 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:
Cut the bolt, and replace it with a narrow-head internal-hex (allen) 
type that can be removed through the notch in the future?


Tempting!


Or use a loong setscrew. Install it like a stud and spin a nut down on it.
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-02 Thread Jim Cathey

I had a few minutes, so I put the three-jaw puller on the harmonic
balancer.  It walked right off, releasing my lost 13mm socket, the
water pump, the bolt, and my stubby 13mm wrench.  I found that the
offending bolt was 1/4 _longer_ than the others, which might
have made the difference between removing the balancer or not.  At
least with it out of there the suspension pump is going to be very
easy to work on.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Jim Cathey

Well, it's official: the harmonic balancer has to come off the
crankshaft in order to remove the water pump.  (I can't tell you how
pissed such a design error makes me.  I expected better from a
top-of-the-line car.)  Anyway, to the story:  I used the brass hammer
to tap on the crank pulley and it popped off fairly easily, it was
just stuck a bit.  With that out of there, along with all the belts
and the water pump pulley, I could then reach through the slot in the
balancer to the offending bolt head.  By feel the centerline of the
bolt is even with the edge of the notch, so there's no way a socket
wrench of any sort would have gone on there.  Once I bent the dipstick
tube out of the way a bit I could then get the stubby 13mm box-end
wrench on it.  I cracked it loose, and then began a very tedious
session of walking that bolt out: one 12-point notch at a time.  It
never did reach a point where it was loose enough to spin with
fingertips.  The bolt came free just about the time the bolt head
contacted the rear of the balancer.  While the water pump is now
loose, there's no way to get it out of there, the bolt is too long and
the pump is trapped there.  (My wrench is trapped on the bolt, too.)

This sucks.  I'm at 4.5 hours on this job and I haven't even got the
bad pump out yet.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Allan Streib
Cut the bolt, and replace it with a narrow-head internal-hex (allen) type that 
can be removed through the notch in the future?

Allan


On Fri, 01 May 2009 07:48 -0700, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 Well, it's official: the harmonic balancer has to come off the
 crankshaft in order to remove the water pump.  (I can't tell you how
 pissed such a design error makes me.  I expected better from a
 top-of-the-line car.)  Anyway, to the story:  I used the brass hammer
 to tap on the crank pulley and it popped off fairly easily, it was
 just stuck a bit.  With that out of there, along with all the belts
 and the water pump pulley, I could then reach through the slot in the
 balancer to the offending bolt head.  By feel the centerline of the
 bolt is even with the edge of the notch, so there's no way a socket
 wrench of any sort would have gone on there.  Once I bent the dipstick
 tube out of the way a bit I could then get the stubby 13mm box-end
 wrench on it.  I cracked it loose, and then began a very tedious
 session of walking that bolt out: one 12-point notch at a time.  It
 never did reach a point where it was loose enough to spin with
 fingertips.  The bolt came free just about the time the bolt head
 contacted the rear of the balancer.  While the water pump is now
 loose, there's no way to get it out of there, the bolt is too long and
 the pump is trapped there.  (My wrench is trapped on the bolt, too.)
 
 This sucks.  I'm at 4.5 hours on this job and I haven't even got the
 bad pump out yet.
 

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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Loren Faeth

I'd guess the allen bolt was original.

At 10:20 AM 5/1/2009, you wrote:
Cut the bolt, and replace it with a narrow-head internal-hex (allen) 
type that can be removed through the notch in the future?


Allan


On Fri, 01 May 2009 07:48 -0700, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 Well, it's official: the harmonic balancer has to come off the
 crankshaft in order to remove the water pump.  (I can't tell you how
 pissed such a design error makes me.  I expected better from a
 top-of-the-line car.)  Anyway, to the story:  I used the brass hammer
 to tap on the crank pulley and it popped off fairly easily, it was
 just stuck a bit.  With that out of there, along with all the belts
 and the water pump pulley, I could then reach through the slot in the
 balancer to the offending bolt head.  By feel the centerline of the
 bolt is even with the edge of the notch, so there's no way a socket
 wrench of any sort would have gone on there.  Once I bent the dipstick
 tube out of the way a bit I could then get the stubby 13mm box-end
 wrench on it.  I cracked it loose, and then began a very tedious
 session of walking that bolt out: one 12-point notch at a time.  It
 never did reach a point where it was loose enough to spin with
 fingertips.  The bolt came free just about the time the bolt head
 contacted the rear of the balancer.  While the water pump is now
 loose, there's no way to get it out of there, the bolt is too long and
 the pump is trapped there.  (My wrench is trapped on the bolt, too.)

 This sucks.  I'm at 4.5 hours on this job and I haven't even got the
 bad pump out yet.


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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Yea, Cama told you that several days ago.

Jim Cathey wrote:

Well, it's official: the harmonic balancer has to come off the
crankshaft in order to remove the water pump.  (I can't tell you how
pissed such a design error makes me.  I expected better from a
top-of-the-line car.)  Anyway, to the story:  I used the brass hammer
to tap on the crank pulley and it popped off fairly easily, it was
just stuck a bit.  With that out of there, along with all the belts
and the water pump pulley, I could then reach through the slot in the
balancer to the offending bolt head.  By feel the centerline of the
bolt is even with the edge of the notch, so there's no way a socket
wrench of any sort would have gone on there.  Once I bent the dipstick
tube out of the way a bit I could then get the stubby 13mm box-end
wrench on it.  I cracked it loose, and then began a very tedious
session of walking that bolt out: one 12-point notch at a time.  It
never did reach a point where it was loose enough to spin with
fingertips.  The bolt came free just about the time the bolt head
contacted the rear of the balancer.  While the water pump is now
loose, there's no way to get it out of there, the bolt is too long and
the pump is trapped there.  (My wrench is trapped on the bolt, too.)

This sucks.  I'm at 4.5 hours on this job and I haven't even got the
bad pump out yet.

-- Jim



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.12.12/2090 - Release Date: 05/01/09 06:17:00


  


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread OK Don
Just replace that vergasser with an OM603 and be done with it.

On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 10:50 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 Yea, Cama told you that several days ago.

 Jim Cathey wrote:

  Well, it's official: the harmonic balancer has to come off the
 crankshaft in order to remove the water pump.  (I can't tell you how
 pissed such a design error makes me.  I expected better from a
 top-of-the-line car.)  Anyway, to the story:  I used the brass hammer
 to tap on the crank pulley and it popped off fairly easily, it was
 just stuck a bit.  With that out of there, along with all the belts
 and the water pump pulley, I could then reach through the slot in the
 balancer to the offending bolt head.  By feel the centerline of the
 bolt is even with the edge of the notch, so there's no way a socket
 wrench of any sort would have gone on there.  Once I bent the dipstick
 tube out of the way a bit I could then get the stubby 13mm box-end
 wrench on it.  I cracked it loose, and then began a very tedious
 session of walking that bolt out: one 12-point notch at a time.  It
 never did reach a point where it was loose enough to spin with
 fingertips.  The bolt came free just about the time the bolt head
 contacted the rear of the balancer.  While the water pump is now
 loose, there's no way to get it out of there, the bolt is too long and
 the pump is trapped there.  (My wrench is trapped on the bolt, too.)

 This sucks.  I'm at 4.5 hours on this job and I haven't even got the
 bad pump out yet.

 -- Jim



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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database:
 270.12.12/2090 - Release Date: 05/01/09 06:17:00




 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81
 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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-- 
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
KD5NRO
The important thing in aeroplanes is that they shall be speedy Baron
Manfred von Richthofen
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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Jim Cathey

Just replace that vergasser with an OM603 and be done with it.


That was one of the motivations for buying that particular SEL.
(We have an SDL with a twice-wrecked body.)  That wasn't for
immediate consideration, just something to keep in mind for
some far-off day.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Jim Cathey

Yea, Cama told you that several days ago.


Yeah, but there's that whole river in Egypt thing...

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-05-01 Thread Jim Cathey
Cut the bolt, and replace it with a narrow-head internal-hex (allen) 
type that can be removed through the notch in the future?


Tempting!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-30 Thread Jim Cathey

Work proceeds on the apparently GM-designed M117 motor.

The stubby wrench didn't work.  I then removed the 6 13mm bolts in the
crank pulley.  That didn't loosen it yet.  So I removed the radiator,
which didn't want to come out easily due to the transmission cooler
lines.  They eventually cracked loose without ripping out of the
plastic radiator, but it seemed a close thing.  I plugged these holes
with four corks and set the radiator aside.  I then removed the AC
idler pulley, which turns out to be very stiff.  The bearing is shot,
it's likely that this was the source of the odd whining noise up
front.  I still can't get the 3-jaw puller in there because of the AC
condensor, and the AC system still has some kind of charge in it,
possibly R12, so I don't want to drain it.  Out of time today.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-29 Thread Jim Cathey

Yesterday I bought a 1/4 13mm socket, $0.25 at the pawn shop.
Unfortunately, it didn't fit either.  (And I lost it down behind the
pulley and can't seem to fish it out, even with the magnet.)  I'm now
trying with the 13mm stubby wrench, but I ran out of time to resolve
that issue.  I did feel down in the crank pulley, and I think it's
hex-head bolts not Allens that hold it on.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-28 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
I don't understand all your fuss about pulling the balancer, the 
reality is all you will be pulling is the rubber dampening ring, the 
harmonic balancer will stay in place. It is quite simple. Remove 
radiator. 1/2 hour max. Remove pulley for the belts then remove the 
dampener ring. Maximum, 1.5 hours total to get the ring off for a 
novice. Condenser stays in place. With all the time you have wasted 
with futile attempts and posting here you could have had it apart 
already and be going back together.


While in there, ideal time to replace all the belts, anyways. As you 
mentioned the pulley for the water pump is behind the damper. Even if 
you got the lower bolt loose, you would not have enough room to get the 
bolt out enough to remove the water pump with the dampener in place. 
The access hole is offset on those later m117s and is all but useless 
in helping with this job. Lastly, with the dampener out of the way, you 
will be able to properly prep the face of the timing cover for the new 
pump to mate to. As with any job, cleanliness is critical.


The facts are what they are and all the whining in the world is not 
going to change anything. Check your MB V8 factory service manual (4.2 
and 5.6, not 3.5 and 4.5) if in doubt.


Mathieu


On Apr 28, 2009, at 1:29 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly 
the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  
socket.


That's what I thought initially, but I've been having real
trouble.  Doesn't help that I can't see, I'll hate to have
to pull the radiator and evaporator.  Also, the stupid
WP pulley is trapped on the end of the shaft by the crank
pulley.  That's in the way, too.

I'm going to be _really_ mad if I have to pull the crank
pulley/balancer.

I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North 
Alabama
where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to 
take the


My favorite quote:  Never give up, never surrender!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Benz must have changed over to the separate balancer/hub system with the 
aluminum block then.  The balancer will be held on by six hex head bolts and is 
easy to take off -- the hub stays put on the crank.  

The balancer is larger diameter than the older one, I believe, and hence will 
have to come off.  Not a big deal, since you don't have to remove the crank 
bolt.

Peter

-Original Message-
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Sent: Apr 28, 2009 12:29 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

 Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly 
 the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  socket.

That's what I thought initially, but I've been having real
trouble.  Doesn't help that I can't see, I'll hate to have
to pull the radiator and evaporator.  Also, the stupid
WP pulley is trapped on the end of the shaft by the crank
pulley.  That's in the way, too.

I'm going to be _really_ mad if I have to pull the crank
pulley/balancer.

 I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North 
 Alabama
 where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to 
 take the

My favorite quote:  Never give up, never surrender!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-28 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
The balancer and the rubber dampening ring are two very different 
parts. The balancer is still held on with the large 27mm  bolt. The 
dampener ring is held on by the six crank pulley bolts. Very similar to 
a om617a. The dampener ring is often referred to as the harmonic 
balancer by mistake. The dampener is the large green disk and the 
harmonic is considerably smaller in diameter and resides behind the 
dampener.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On Apr 28, 2009, at 10:42 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Benz must have changed over to the separate balancer/hub system with 
the aluminum block then.  The balancer will be held on by six hex head 
bolts and is easy to take off -- the hub stays put on the crank.


The balancer is larger diameter than the older one, I believe, and 
hence will have to come off.  Not a big deal, since you don't have to 
remove the crank bolt.


Peter

-Original Message-

From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Sent: Apr 28, 2009 12:29 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump


Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly
the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  
socket.


That's what I thought initially, but I've been having real
trouble.  Doesn't help that I can't see, I'll hate to have
to pull the radiator and evaporator.  Also, the stupid
WP pulley is trapped on the end of the shaft by the crank
pulley.  That's in the way, too.

I'm going to be _really_ mad if I have to pull the crank
pulley/balancer.


I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North
Alabama
where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to
take the


My favorite quote:  Never give up, never surrender!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-28 Thread Rich Thomas

I like your style.

--R

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:
I don't understand all your fuss about pulling the balancer, the 
reality is all you will be pulling is the rubber dampening ring, the 
harmonic balancer will stay in place. It is quite simple. Remove 
radiator. 1/2 hour max. Remove pulley for the belts then remove the 
dampener ring. Maximum, 1.5 hours total to get the ring off for a 
novice. Condenser stays in place. With all the time you have wasted 
with futile attempts and posting here you could have had it apart 
already and be going back together.


While in there, ideal time to replace all the belts, anyways. As you 
mentioned the pulley for the water pump is behind the damper. Even if 
you got the lower bolt loose, you would not have enough room to get 
the bolt out enough to remove the water pump with the dampener in 
place. The access hole is offset on those later m117s and is all but 
useless in helping with this job. Lastly, with the dampener out of the 
way, you will be able to properly prep the face of the timing cover 
for the new pump to mate to. As with any job, cleanliness is critical.


The facts are what they are and all the whining in the world is not 
going to change anything. Check your MB V8 factory service manual (4.2 
and 5.6, not 3.5 and 4.5) if in doubt.


Mathieu




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[MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Jim Cathey

Another half hour wasted on that water pump.  I _can't_ see how
to get a wrench on that last stinkin' bolt.  (The one on the
bottom.)  I've tried every socket, U-joint, wrench that I've
got.  I can barely feel the bolt head with my fingertips, and
the notches in the harmonic balancer just don't seem to be deep
enough.  Anybody got any suggestions?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

remove the balancer?

Jim Cathey wrote:

Another half hour wasted on that water pump.  I _can't_ see how
to get a wrench on that last stinkin' bolt.  (The one on the
bottom.)  I've tried every socket, U-joint, wrench that I've
got.  I can barely feel the bolt head with my fingertips, and
the notches in the harmonic balancer just don't seem to be deep
enough.  Anybody got any suggestions?

-- Jim



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:

Anybody got any suggestions?


Factory socket?
Right angle die grinder? (for the access opening in the balancer)
Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

yes.


On Apr 27, 2009, at 10:54 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


remove the balancer?

Jim Cathey wrote:

Another half hour wasted on that water pump.  I _can't_ see how
to get a wrench on that last stinkin' bolt.  (The one on the
bottom.)  I've tried every socket, U-joint, wrench that I've
got.  I can barely feel the bolt head with my fingertips, and
the notches in the harmonic balancer just don't seem to be deep
enough.  Anybody got any suggestions?
-- Jim--





Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com



Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread OK Don
Open end wrench, ground thin enough to fit if need be, bent such that you
can turn it one flat at a time 

On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Jim Cathey wrote:

 Anybody got any suggestions?


 Factory socket?
 Right angle die grinder? (for the access opening in the balancer)
 Mitch.


 --
 OK Don
 Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
 KD5NRO
 The important thing in aeroplanes is that they shall be speedy Baron
 Manfred von Richthofen

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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Peter Frederick
Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly  
the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  
socket.  Been a few years, but I didn't have to do anything drastic.


You may need to find an extension that will fit in the slot.

DO NOT grind the slot larger unless you can then re-balance the  
balancer.


Peter

On Apr 27, 2009, at 9:57 PM, OK Don wrote:

Open end wrench, ground thin enough to fit if need be, bent such  
that you

can turn it one flat at a time 

On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


Jim Cathey wrote:


Anybody got any suggestions?



Factory socket?
Right angle die grinder? (for the access opening in the balancer)
Mitch.


--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
KD5NRO
The important thing in aeroplanes is that they shall be speedy  
Baron

Manfred von Richthofen


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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Tom Hargrave
I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North Alabama
where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to take the
car out to see the gulf  to the Smokey Mountains at least once a year.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
http://www.kegkits.com/JABF/
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 9:57 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

Open end wrench, ground thin enough to fit if need be, bent such that you
can turn it one flat at a time 

On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 10:55 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Jim Cathey wrote:

 Anybody got any suggestions?


 Factory socket?
 Right angle die grinder? (for the access opening in the balancer)
 Mitch.


 --
 OK Don
 Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
 KD5NRO
 The important thing in aeroplanes is that they shall be speedy Baron
 Manfred von Richthofen

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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Jim Cathey
Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly 
the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  socket.


That's what I thought initially, but I've been having real
trouble.  Doesn't help that I can't see, I'll hate to have
to pull the radiator and evaporator.  Also, the stupid
WP pulley is trapped on the end of the shaft by the crank
pulley.  That's in the way, too.

I'm going to be _really_ mad if I have to pull the crank
pulley/balancer.

I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North 
Alabama
where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to 
take the


My favorite quote:  Never give up, never surrender!

-- Jim



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