Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Barry Stark
Jamie -
I believe that self adjusting is a bit of a misnomer. What happens in that
later box is that there is a spring loaded plunger pushing against the
working piston so if there is some slop you can't feel it. Generally the box
can develop lash between the gear teeth on the working piston and the teeth
on the pitman shaft as well as the relationships between the other internal
parts as well. Adjusting the screw on top of the box reduces the working
piston to pitman shaft lash much like moving the pinion gear closer to the
ring gear in a differential to reduce lash. Some years back I was still
active in the MB club. One of the really good things about our section was
we regularly had a factory tech rep come in to update us on the new products
and allow us to ask service questions. I did happen to ask about steering
box slop and the fellow said it is very rare for the LS90 series box to wear
out. He pretty much said that if one was to follow the manual and reset the
running torques while replacing all the soft parts it would constitute a
rebuild. And yes I remember he seemed to indicate that one had to be sure to
replace the thrust washer on the pitman shaft adjusting screw as well.
Without the set of special tools to hold the various assemblies while
setting the running torque it would be pretty tough to those adjustments, so
if adjusting the lash with the adjusting screw doesn't bring things to a
situation that you can live with then probably the best thing to do is to go
to the bone yard and get a steering box off a lower mileage car. They
typically go for about a picture of Ben Franklin. Make sure that you center
the steering box working piston if you do a swap when you go to mate the
input shaft on the box to the steering shaft coupling. To make a copy of the
116 589 621 00 centering screw I just took the appropriate thread pitch bolt
and turned a point on it with a lathe.

Barry

 Its true the box is somehow self adjusting in the W126 (from 08/81, so
 MY 1982), but the manual still states that adjustment is possible.


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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Dan Penoff
Loosing?

On Apr 18, 2012, at 10:53 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Rich, what's wrong with a reseal without loosing the balls (like the website 
 posted a few days ago)?  That was done on a 126 box.
 
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Max
Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

Loosing?


Loosing is one of Rich's favorite technical terms!  ;)
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Good question... last time I did this I don't recall getting much fluid.
I'll check again.

Replacing whats in the reservoir is quick and easy, so its nice to make it
part of a normal service.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:48 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Until it looks clean, yes... it takes some time to flush out 30 year
 old
 fluid!
 
 Why not change all the fluid at once by draining the box via the port for
 the locking screw?  I've done it that way, just takes some time to work the
 air out.

 Another method is to route the return line into waste container, start
 engine and add new to the reservoir until steam from return line clears up.
  I think you need to plug the return port on the reservoir, haven't tried
 this method yet.

 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Great info Barry,
Thanks!
Jaime

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 3:11 AM, Barry Stark barryst...@verizon.net wrote:

 Jamie -
 I believe that self adjusting is a bit of a misnomer. What happens in that
 later box is that there is a spring loaded plunger pushing against the
 working piston so if there is some slop you can't feel it. Generally the
 box
 can develop lash between the gear teeth on the working piston and the teeth
 on the pitman shaft as well as the relationships between the other internal
 parts as well. Adjusting the screw on top of the box reduces the working
 piston to pitman shaft lash much like moving the pinion gear closer to the
 ring gear in a differential to reduce lash. Some years back I was still
 active in the MB club. One of the really good things about our section was
 we regularly had a factory tech rep come in to update us on the new
 products
 and allow us to ask service questions. I did happen to ask about steering
 box slop and the fellow said it is very rare for the LS90 series box to
 wear
 out. He pretty much said that if one was to follow the manual and reset the
 running torques while replacing all the soft parts it would constitute a
 rebuild. And yes I remember he seemed to indicate that one had to be sure
 to
 replace the thrust washer on the pitman shaft adjusting screw as well.
 Without the set of special tools to hold the various assemblies while
 setting the running torque it would be pretty tough to those adjustments,
 so
 if adjusting the lash with the adjusting screw doesn't bring things to a
 situation that you can live with then probably the best thing to do is to
 go
 to the bone yard and get a steering box off a lower mileage car. They
 typically go for about a picture of Ben Franklin. Make sure that you center
 the steering box working piston if you do a swap when you go to mate the
 input shaft on the box to the steering shaft coupling. To make a copy of
 the
 116 589 621 00 centering screw I just took the appropriate thread pitch
 bolt
 and turned a point on it with a lathe.

 Barry

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Rich Thomas

All that stuff is new -- I rebuilt the whole front suspension and links.

Looks like the various suggestions might add up to just living with the 
problem for now.  I asked the Benz shop that did the alignment what they 
recommended for the slop, he said after it all settled in for a week or 
two to bring it back and they would check it out.  I asked about 
adjusting the box, the guy said maybe.


--R

On 4/19/12 12:18 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Check the tie rods and drag link -- likely they are worn out as well.  
Makes an amazing difference to replace them.


Should have been caught by the alignment shop, though.

Peter

On Apr 18, 2012, at 5:57 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, 
an alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair 
amount of slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead 
of the box is fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box 
and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the 
top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I 
would like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then 
adjusting it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the 
way it is is sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break 
this one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is 
working correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Dan Penoff
I guess you could loose all of the ball bearings in the steering gear, as in 
set loose.

Dan

On Apr 19, 2012, at 7:56 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Loosing?
 
 
 Loosing is one of Rich's favorite technical terms!  ;)
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-19 Thread Rick Knoble
On Apr 19, 2012, at 7:15 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Replacing whats in the reservoir is quick and easy, so its nice to make it
 part of a normal service.


Especially with a topsider. :-)

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas
OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an 
alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of 
slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is 
fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response 
from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering 
wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would 
like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then 
adjusting it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way 
it is is sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this 
one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working 
correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net writes:

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.

I don't think there's any harm in adjusting it slightly, to see if you
get improvement.  Just don't adjust it so far as to remove ALL the
slack.  I don't really know ho much is considered normal; my 300D has
about as much slop as yours, based on your description.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
When I did my front end rebuild all was well except for the steering slop. I 
just tighten up the adjustment screw a bit and it eliminated the slop but the 
steering still doesn't feel quite right.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net 
wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston was 
pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment done.  
Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the steering.  
The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can rotate the 
steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, 
but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the scary 
stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with all the 
work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to get rid of 
that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would not do much to 
make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the way it should be (I 
think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air cleaner 
is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one at some 
point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or not, should 
I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Hendrik Fay
There is supposed to be a little bit of play in the steering, over 
adjusting the steering box may well lead to premature wear and/or 
locking of the box at full turn.
Proper alignment is important, to ensure the car drives straight with a 
slight movement to the right for you and left for us.


Hendrik
who doesn't mess with the steering box

On 19/04/12 08:57, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

When I did my front end rebuild all was well except for the steering slop. I 
just tighten up the adjustment screw a bit and it eliminated the slop but the 
steering still doesn't feel quite right.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net  
wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston was 
pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment done.  
Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the steering.  
The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can rotate the 
steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, 
but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the scary 
stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with all the 
work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to get rid of 
that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would not do much to 
make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the way it should be (I 
think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air cleaner 
is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one at some 
point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or not, should 
I just get a new one and replace it?

--R





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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread WILTON
Very little play in either of mine (124 and 126); 'trip to Raleigh and back 
on the 126 today; ever so slight pressure left or right on wheel at cruise 
puts it right where I want it.  'Feels much like flying.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop


There is supposed to be a little bit of play in the steering, over 
adjusting the steering box may well lead to premature wear and/or locking 
of the box at full turn.
Proper alignment is important, to ensure the car drives straight with a 
slight movement to the right for you and left for us.


Hendrik
who doesn't mess with the steering box

On 19/04/12 08:57, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
When I did my front end rebuild all was well except for the steering 
slop. I just tighten up the adjustment screw a bit and it eliminated the 
slop but the steering still doesn't feel quite right.


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Rich 
Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:


OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one 
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an 
alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of 
slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is 
fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response 
from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering 
wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the 
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But 
with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would 
like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting 
it would not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is 
sorta the way it should be (I think not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air 
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this 
one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working 
correctly or not, should I just get a new one and replace it?


--R





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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
 was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
 done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
 steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
 rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
  It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
 really dead.

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
 all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
 get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
 not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
 way it should be (I think not).

 On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
 cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
 at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
 not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

 --R



 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread David Bruckmann
On a 126 SD, the box is self-adjusting. Are you absolutely sure the flex 
coupler is solid (ie. you need to check it with resistance, not with the front 
wheels in the air).


Rich Thomas wrote:

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just can't 
adjust out the slop?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
way it should be (I think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



__**_
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
perfect or at least acceptable.

There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
 can't adjust out the slop?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
 recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

 Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
 nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
 1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
 Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
 screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
 out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
 clockwise.
 Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

 Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
 bit more.

 If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
 very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
 might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

 This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
 fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
 replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
 the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

 Good luck,
 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
 was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
 done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
 steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
 rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
 It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
 really dead.

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
 all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
 get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
 not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
 way it should be (I think not).

 On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
 cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
 at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
 not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

 --R



 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Whoa! You replace the PS fluid at every oil change?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
perfect or at least acceptable.

There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
can't adjust out the slop?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
way it should be (I think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
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--
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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For new and used parts 

Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Allan Streib
Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au writes:

 Proper alignment is important, to ensure the car drives straight with
 a slight movement to the right for you and left for us.

Why a slight drift to one side?  Don't you want it to track absolutely
straight?

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Until it looks clean, yes... it takes some time to flush out 30 year old
fluid!

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

 Whoa! You replace the PS fluid at every oil change?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
 anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
 once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
 perfect or at least acceptable.

 There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
 wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
 to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

 But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
 never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
 box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
 the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
 wrote:

 So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
 can't adjust out the slop?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
 recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

 Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
 nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
 1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
 Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
 screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
 out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
 clockwise.
 Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

 Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
 bit more.

 If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
 very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
 might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

 This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
 fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
 replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
 the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

 Good luck,
 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
 was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
 done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
 steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
 rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
 It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
 really dead.

 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
 all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
 get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
 not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
 way it should be (I think not).

 On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
 cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
 at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
 not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

 --R



 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
 http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to 

Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread David Bruckmann
Versus the W123 (and prior) is NOT self-adjusting, hence the need to do so 
occasionally.

I'd be careful with a 126. If it is loose, it is probably the coupler, or the 
box is shot.

D.


At 5:12 PM -0700 4/18/12, David Bruckmann wrote:
On a 126 SD, the box is self-adjusting. Are you absolutely sure the flex 
coupler is solid (ie. you need to check it with resistance, not with the front 
wheels in the air).


Rich Thomas wrote:

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Rick Knoble
Roads are crowned so water runs off. So your car will drift right in USA or 
left in OZ. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:37 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Why a slight drift to one side?  Don't you want it to track absolutely
 straight?

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Ok. I got it now. Thanks for the tip!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Until it looks clean, yes... it takes some time to flush out 30 year old
fluid!

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:

Whoa! You replace the PS fluid at every oil change?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
perfect or at least acceptable.

There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:12 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
wrote:

So when should a steering box be replaced? Is there a time when you just
can't adjust out the slop?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Its pretty straight forward to adjust the box... I do it all the time, as
recently as last night on a 83 300D.  Heres the method in detail:

Start with a 19mm socket and a long set of extensions to reach the adjuster
nut.  Loosen the nut with a breaker bar or ratchet just a bit... maybe
1/4-1/2 turn, just so its loose.
Replace the 19mm socket with 6mm hex key and insert it into the adjustment
screw. With a 19mm wrench, hold the nut while you back the adjustment screw
out.  Start with 1/4 or 1/2 turn.  Your turning the adjustment out, counter
clockwise.
Now tighten up the 19mm nut again.

Go drive it and see how it feels.  You'll probably need to back it out a
bit more.

If you back it out too much, it'll bind a bit in the middle.  This makes it
very hard to keep the car tracking straight on a straight road, but you
might not notice it much driving around turns, etc.  Check it carefully.

This is also an excellent time to replace the power steering filter and
fluid.  I usually just suck whatever I can out of the reservoir, then
replace it with new ATF.  If its really foul, do this a few times, running
the engine to circulate the fluid in between.

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 6:57 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one piston
was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering bits, an alignment
done.  Car drives well except there is still a fair amount of slop in the
steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just ahead of the box is fine, I can
rotate the steering shaft right at the box and no response from the box.
It is not a lot, but maybe 2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is
really dead.

I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.  But with
all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy, well, I would like to
get rid of that slop.  If the box is already shot, then adjusting it would
not do much to make it worse I figure, unless the way it is is sorta the
way it should be (I think not).

On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the air
cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will break this one
at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper is working correctly or
not, should I just get a new one and replace it?

--R



__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
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--
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
___
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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Its true the box is somehow self adjusting in the W126 (from 08/81, so MY
1982), but the manual still states that adjustment is possible.

See:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/46-110.pdf

and
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/46-480.pdf

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 8:50 PM, David Bruckmann 
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 Versus the W123 (and prior) is NOT self-adjusting, hence the need to do so
 occasionally.

 I'd be careful with a 126. If it is loose, it is probably the coupler, or
 the box is shot.

 D.


 At 5:12 PM -0700 4/18/12, David Bruckmann wrote:
 On a 126 SD, the box is self-adjusting. Are you absolutely sure the flex
 coupler is solid (ie. you need to check it with resistance, not with the
 front wheels in the air).
 
 
 Rich Thomas wrote:
 
 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread David Bruckmann
The later (W126 and newer) boxes use a spring loaded gear. A simple solution 
that reduces the box slop and prevents early wear caused by lack of timely 
adjustment. But it also means that when the box is worn out, it really is worn 
out.

I can't see why adjustment would ever be necessary except after you've done a 
rebuild. 

The risk in adjusting is that you will overtighten the box and cause rapid 
failure of the needle bearings.

Jaime Kopchinski  wrote:

Its true the box is somehow self adjusting in the W126 (from 08/81, so MY
1982), but the manual still states that adjustment is possible.

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Dieselhead
Loosen the lock nut, turn the adjuster screw COUNTERclockwise 
(loosen) 1/4 turn and try it on the road.  It will take several 
adjustments to get it right. sometimes 1/8 turn is enough.  If you 
get it too tight (Loosen the adjuster too much)  you can tell by 
noise and handling.  Then just reverse the direction of the 
adjustment.


nothing to be scared of.



Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net writes:


 I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all the
 scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do that.


I don't think there's any harm in adjusting it slightly, to see if you
get improvement.  Just don't adjust it so far as to remove ALL the
slack.  I don't really know ho much is considered normal; my 300D has
about as much slop as yours, based on your description.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Sure, the reservoir only holds like a cup and its ATF so a change is like $1.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 17:23:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop
Message-ID:
1334795017.70403.yext-apple-iph...@web125102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Whoa! You replace the PS fluid at every oil change?

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, when you reach the point that the adjustment screw won't back out
anymore, its time to rebuild/replace the box.  I've only experienced this
once after owning dozens of these cars.  You can usually adjust it to be
perfect or at least acceptable.

There is a factory procedure for adjusting the box... it involves a torque
wrench at the steering wheel and removal of the pitman arm.  Its a nice way
to do it, if you have the tools and the time.

But again, make sure you're changing the fluid frequently.  Most cars have
never seen a fluid change, which certainly doesn't help the life of the
box.  I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change
the oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

Jaime

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Certainly could be... its been a few years since my last W126.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:30 PM, David Bruckmann 
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 The later (W126 and newer) boxes use a spring loaded gear. A simple
 solution that reduces the box slop and prevents early wear caused by lack
 of timely adjustment. But it also means that when the box is worn out, it
 really is worn out.

 I can't see why adjustment would ever be necessary except after you've
 done a rebuild.

 The risk in adjusting is that you will overtighten the box and cause rapid
 failure of the needle bearings.

 Jaime Kopchinski  wrote:
 
 Its true the box is somehow self adjusting in the W126 (from 08/81, so MY
 1982), but the manual still states that adjustment is possible.

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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Craig
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:18:05 -0400 Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I generally suck out what I can and replace it every time I change the
 oil.  I keep a gallon of generic ATF on hand just for this purpose.

The generic ATF would be suitable for a W123, but doesn't one need to use
the special steering fluid on a W124 and later?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Max
Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

Until it looks clean, yes... it takes some time to flush out 30 year
old
fluid!

Why not change all the fluid at once by draining the box via the port for the 
locking screw?  I've done it that way, just takes some time to work the air out.

Another method is to route the return line into waste container, start engine 
and add new to the reservoir until steam from return line clears up.  I think 
you need to plug the return port on the reservoir, haven't tried this method 
yet.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Max
Rich, what's wrong with a reseal without loosing the balls (like the website 
posted a few days ago)?  That was done on a 126 box.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD steering slop

2012-04-18 Thread Peter Frederick
Check the tie rods and drag link -- likely they are worn out as  
well.  Makes an amazing difference to replace them.


Should have been caught by the alignment shop, though.

Peter

On Apr 18, 2012, at 5:57 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

OK the SD is all finished, I had to replace LF brake caliper as one  
piston was pretty much frozen.  All new suspension and steering  
bits, an alignment done.  Car drives well except there is still a  
fair amount of slop in the steering.  The u-joint on the shaft just  
ahead of the box is fine, I can rotate the steering shaft right at  
the box and no response from the box.  It is not a lot, but maybe  
2in at the top of the steering wheel, and it is really dead.


I am thinking the steering box needs to be adjusted, but with all  
the scary stories about buggering the box I am reluctant to do  
that.  But with all the work, and it still feeling a little sloppy,  
well, I would like to get rid of that slop.  If the box is already  
shot, then adjusting it would not do much to make it worse I  
figure, unless the way it is is sorta the way it should be (I think  
not).


On another subject, I put in (another) air cleaner mount, but the  
air cleaner is shaking quite a bit at idle, which I figure will  
break this one at some point.  I have no idea if the engine damper  
is working correctly or not, should I just get a new one and  
replace it?


--R



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