Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-13 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

yup!  Same for 107, but different years

Don't forget to send me your old alloy wheels and hubcaps!


Dimitri wrote:

That’s right! The first w123 came out in 1977 with hubcaps, the way it was 
intended by the designers. The bundt ugly wheels were just forced on the car 
later so it can appear more modern.

Sent from my iPhone


On May 12, 2018, at 5:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes  
wrote:

Good!  send me your old alloy wheels and hubcaps!



mer
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread clay monroe via Mercedes
I agree, hard to find them now.  I am still kicking myself for tossing the 
steelies I had on Gump.  IDIOT!  Just had to “upgrade” to bundts.

clay 
 

> On May 12, 2018, at 4:51 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> None whatsoever.  The painted wheel cover look was always far superior to the 
> bundts in my opinion.  Do you have a set?  They’re not easy to come by as I 
> recall.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On May 12, 2018, at 7:45 AM, Dimitri via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I’m thinking of swapping the bundts for aluminum steelies on the 85 300D 
>> because I like the painted hubcap look much better. The alum steelies are 
>> 5.5s and I think the bundts are 6? Any reason not to do this?


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
Yes the 6” aluminum steelies are quite desirable in the pagoda crowd. The 5.5” 
also fetch a pretty penny but not like the 6”. The 5.5” ones I have were bought 
at a junkyard years ago for $15 a pop! My two 240D’s also both have the 5.5” 
aluminum steelies.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2018, at 12:20 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 6” aluminum steelies existed on late non turbo 300Ds delivered to the US.
> 280Es also I think. Very rare, very expensive.  The pagaoda guys all buy
> them up as an upgrade.
> 
> I run 15x5.5 steel wheels on my W116 with hubcaps with no issue.  I think I
> have 206/65r15s on them.
> 
> Jaime
> 
> 
> On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 10:50 AM G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> 
>> Nothing defines a classic car like a classic look... and for a classic
>> Mercedes, the painted hubcap look is "right".
>> 
>> At a glance, it looks "classic"...
>> 
>> My 82 300 D came with a set of Centric wheels, high end custom Mercedes kit
>> for the day... They are stacked in the corner... steelies and caps look
>> much more "classic".
>> 
>> On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 7:38 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Let's hear it for anachronism
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>>> On May 12, 2018 10:22 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
 I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
 looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
 anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.
 
 On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes" 
 wrote:
 
> On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to
>> using
>> these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
>> Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
> 
> Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
> 
> If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2018, at 10:50 AM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Nothing defines a classic car like a classic look... and for a classic
> Mercedes, the painted hubcap look is "right".
> 
> At a glance, it looks "classic"...
> 
> My 82 300 D came with a set of Centric wheels, high end custom Mercedes kit
> for the day... They are stacked in the corner... steelies and caps look
> much more "classic".
> 
> On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 7:38 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Let's hear it for anachronism
>> 
>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>> Wickford RI
>> 
>> On May 12, 2018 10:22 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
>>> looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
>>> anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.
>>> 
>>> On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes" 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
  wrote:
 
> I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
> these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
 
 Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
 
 If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
That’s right! The first w123 came out in 1977 with hubcaps, the way it was 
intended by the designers. The bundt ugly wheels were just forced on the car 
later so it can appear more modern.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2018, at 5:15 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good!  send me your old alloy wheels and hubcaps!
> 
> Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:
>> WOW! I agree with Andrew.
>> 
>> Greg
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

Good!  send me your old alloy wheels and hubcaps!

Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:

WOW! I agree with Andrew.

Greg





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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

Hear here!

Dwight Giles via Mercedes wrote:

Let's hear it for anachronism

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI




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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
As long as they are close to the original size, you should be good.  I 
think original was 185/78 or maybe 185/70.  195/70 should be ok, but you 
can consult the tar-rack website.


Dimitri via Mercedes wrote:

I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using these 
narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New Michelins from the 
bundts to the steelies?





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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes

No!   The alloy stamped wheels are great!

Dimitri via Mercedes wrote:

I’m thinking of swapping the bundts for aluminum steelies on the 85 300D 
because I like the painted hubcap look much better. The alum steelies are 5.5s 
and I think the bundts are 6? Any reason not to do this?

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes
WOW! I agree with Andrew.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Strasfogel via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2018 7:22 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Andrew Strasfogel
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.

On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes"  wrote:

> On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
> > these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> > Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
>
> Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
>
> If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread MG via Mercedes
I have heard of BBS and Rial. Mine are Rial. Look like these 
except for the web being black.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/OZ-MSW-Mercedes-15-7-wheels-rims-5x112-w123-w126-w126-W107-W108-W116-Sl-sec-cl/202292133361?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D5f6963db25534177aa5c100556e8644c%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D202292131506%26itm%3D202292133361&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982



Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On May 12, 2018 at 2:23 PM MG via Mercedes  wrote:


What do they look like? To me centric is a generic term for 
wheels that have a center hole that fits on the center ring of 
the brake disk.


Some wheels are lug-centric. 
Virtually all OE wheels are hub-centric. 


Did AMG use BBS brand mesh wheels in the 1980s?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes

> On May 12, 2018 at 2:23 PM MG via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> 
> What do they look like? To me centric is a generic term for 
> wheels that have a center hole that fits on the center ring of 
> the brake disk.

Some wheels are lug-centric. 
Virtually all OE wheels are hub-centric. 

Did AMG use BBS brand mesh wheels in the 1980s?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread MG via Mercedes
What do they look like? To me centric is a generic term for 
wheels that have a center hole that fits on the center ring of 
the brake disk. All the shock of the road is then transferred 
through that rather then the lug bolts as in some other cars.


G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Nothing defines a classic car like a classic look... and for a classic
Mercedes, the painted hubcap look is "right".

At a glance, it looks "classic"...

My 82 300 D came with a set of Centric wheels, high end custom Mercedes kit
for the day... They are stacked in the corner... steelies and caps look
much more "classic".

On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 7:38 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Let's hear it for anachronism

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On May 12, 2018 10:22 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.

On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes" 
wrote:


On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
 wrote:


I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?

Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.

If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread MG via Mercedes
I'd have to agree with you if all you can get is the Bundts. 
Personally I like the Basketweave wheels that AMG used to put on 
the w123s.


Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.

On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes"  wrote:


On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
 wrote:


I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?

Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.

If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes
6” aluminum steelies existed on late non turbo 300Ds delivered to the US.
 280Es also I think. Very rare, very expensive.  The pagaoda guys all buy
them up as an upgrade.

I run 15x5.5 steel wheels on my W116 with hubcaps with no issue.  I think I
have 206/65r15s on them.

Jaime


On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 10:50 AM G Mann via Mercedes 
wrote:

> Nothing defines a classic car like a classic look... and for a classic
> Mercedes, the painted hubcap look is "right".
>
> At a glance, it looks "classic"...
>
> My 82 300 D came with a set of Centric wheels, high end custom Mercedes kit
> for the day... They are stacked in the corner... steelies and caps look
> much more "classic".
>
> On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 7:38 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Let's hear it for anachronism
> >
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > Wickford RI
> >
> > On May 12, 2018 10:22 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
> > > looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
> > > anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.
> > >
> > > On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes" 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
> > > >  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to
> using
> > > > > these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> > > > > Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
> > > >
> > > > Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
> > > >
> > > > If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Craig
> > > >
> > > > ___
> > > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > > >
> > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > > >
> > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> > > >
> > > >
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Nothing defines a classic car like a classic look... and for a classic
Mercedes, the painted hubcap look is "right".

At a glance, it looks "classic"...

My 82 300 D came with a set of Centric wheels, high end custom Mercedes kit
for the day... They are stacked in the corner... steelies and caps look
much more "classic".

On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 7:38 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Let's hear it for anachronism
>
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
>
> On May 12, 2018 10:22 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
> > looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
> > anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.
> >
> > On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes" 
> > wrote:
> >
> > > On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
> > >  wrote:
> > >
> > > > I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
> > > > these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> > > > Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
> > >
> > > Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
> > >
> > > If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
> > >
> > >
> > > Craig
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dwight Giles via Mercedes
Let's hear it for anachronism

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On May 12, 2018 10:22 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
> looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
> anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.
>
> On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes" 
> wrote:
>
> > On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
> >  wrote:
> >
> > > I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
> > > these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> > > Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
> >
> > Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
> >
> > If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
I respectfully disagree. The bundt wheels are more modern and better
looking on any Mercedes built after 1973. The painted hubcaps look
anachronistic except on the 108 and earlier models.

On May 12, 2018 9:25 AM, "Craig via Mercedes"  wrote:

> On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
> > these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> > Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?
>
> Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.
>
> If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Sat, 12 May 2018 08:07:27 -0400 Dimitri via Mercedes
 wrote:

> I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using
> these narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New
> Michelins from the bundts to the steelies?

Check with Michelin the range of rim widths your tires can handle.

If it includes 5.5, go right ahead.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dwight Giles via Mercedes
Curt used to Havre some. Great move. Get rid of the bundt uglies.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On May 12, 2018 7:45 AM, "Dimitri via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> I’m thinking of swapping the bundts for aluminum steelies on the 85 300D
> because I like the painted hubcap look much better. The alum steelies are
> 5.5s and I think the bundts are 6? Any reason not to do this?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
I have a set but they are 5.5 not 6. Is there a disadvantage to using these 
narrower rims? I was going to remount the almost new New Michelins from the 
bundts to the steelies?

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2018, at 7:51 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> None whatsoever.  The painted wheel cover look was always far superior to the 
> bundts in my opinion.  Do you have a set?  They’re not easy to come by as I 
> recall.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On May 12, 2018, at 7:45 AM, Dimitri via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I’m thinking of swapping the bundts for aluminum steelies on the 85 300D 
>> because I like the painted hubcap look much better. The alum steelies are 
>> 5.5s and I think the bundts are 6? Any reason not to do this?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
None whatsoever.  The painted wheel cover look was always far superior to the 
bundts in my opinion.  Do you have a set?  They’re not easy to come by as I 
recall.

-D

> On May 12, 2018, at 7:45 AM, Dimitri via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I’m thinking of swapping the bundts for aluminum steelies on the 85 300D 
> because I like the painted hubcap look much better. The alum steelies are 
> 5.5s and I think the bundts are 6? Any reason not to do this?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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[MBZ] Aluminum Steelies

2018-05-12 Thread Dimitri via Mercedes
I’m thinking of swapping the bundts for aluminum steelies on the 85 300D 
because I like the painted hubcap look much better. The alum steelies are 5.5s 
and I think the bundts are 6? Any reason not to do this?

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum V8 Halocaust Museum

2014-03-28 Thread Rick Knoble
Yeah. I don't remember that one. And I've been here since 2002 or so.   Rick Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. From: Randy BennellSent: Friday, March 28, 2014 4:22 PMTo: Mercedes Discussion ListReply To: Mercedes Discussion ListSubject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum V8 Halocaust MuseumOk, who wants to talk about aluminum V8's and why would we fight about them?Must be many more than there once were.Randy___http://www.okiebenz.comTo search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.comAll posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum V8 Halocaust Museum

2014-03-28 Thread Randy Bennell
Ok, who wants to talk about aluminum V8's and why would we fight about 
them?


Must be many more than there once were.

Randy



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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum V8 Halocaust Museum

2014-03-28 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel
CAR SHAKE AT START


On Fri, Mar 28, 2014 at 11:15 AM, Van Knutson wrote:

> On Thursday, March 27, 2014 8:17 PM, Hendrik and Fay 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> If we get to the stage where everyone is on their tippy toes scared to
> say or post stuff because someone may take mild offence, this list will
> become pretty barren and soulless.
> Every good list/forum needs to have a bit of fun off topic banter, sure
> there needs to be limits but I think self moderation is the order of the
> day at this stage.
>
> 
> **
> I think we are still sensitive about the infamous "Aluminum V8" rantathon
> from about 15 yrs ago, which was the Hiroshima of the mercedes list, for
> those who go back that far.  It started as an aforementioned dry post about
> Aluminum V8's, and quickly devolved into a
> political/ethical/intercontinental flame war that went on for weeks, wiping
> out all side communication like an EMP.
>
> DVB, spoken only in whispers information minister
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[MBZ] Aluminum V8 Halocaust Museum

2014-03-28 Thread Van Knutson
On Thursday, March 27, 2014 8:17 PM, Hendrik and Fay  wrote:



If we get to the stage where everyone is on their tippy toes scared to 
say or post stuff because someone may take mild offence, this list will 
become pretty barren and soulless.
Every good list/forum needs to have a bit of fun off topic banter, sure 
there needs to be limits but I think self moderation is the order of the 
day at this stage.


**
I think we are still sensitive about the infamous "Aluminum V8" rantathon from 
about 15 yrs ago, which was the Hiroshima of the mercedes list, for those who 
go back that far.  It started as an aforementioned dry post about Aluminum 
V8's, and quickly devolved into a political/ethical/intercontinental flame war 
that went on for weeks, wiping out all side communication like an EMP.

DVB, spoken only in whispers information minister
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-24 Thread Dwight Giles
Curt,
I hate to tell you but it was always a probelm on the filter on that 78. We
tried rubber and once we finally got a copper washer to work. We tried a
range of torque settings too.
Dwight

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 6:10 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Hey,
>
> My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
> canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
> 240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a
> spare washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells
> me they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have
> this trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable
> replacement? Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?
>
> -Curt
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-23 Thread Fmiser
> Curt Raymond wrote:

> This is good information. I'm going to order one of the new
> type from Rusty but will hold it in reserve and try to anneal
> what I have.
> 
> I *think* my IR thermometer goes to 799F so it seems like I
> should be able to get in the right range using it and my
> plumbers torch if I'm careful.

Getting an accurate reading from a shiny, non-black surface with
an IR thermometer can be iffy.

> I've annealed copper washers a couple times now with good
> results.

Copper is easy 'cause it doesn't melt before it glows. *grin*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-23 Thread Curt Raymond
This is good information. I'm going to order one of the new type from Rusty but 
will hold it in reserve and try to anneal what I have.

I *think* my IR thermometer goes to 799F so it seems like I should be able to 
get in the right range using it and my plumbers torch if I'm careful. I've 
annealed copper washers a couple times now with good results.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 00:06:50 -0500
From: Fmiser 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer
Message-ID: <20120322000650.73899f42.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

> G Mann wrote:

> 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
> 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
> while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
> the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
> heat.

That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
target for Aluminum.  

I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
soap and watch for it turns black.

The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
Probably overkill for annealing a washer!

> 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
> You should get a nice "PSssh}

Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
(iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-22 Thread G Mann
All good points. If you have a tray of 100 pieces, and a lab oven with
digital control, you could do a very precise job of annealing the washers.

This is a down and dirty, "Get'er Done" and "close is good enough" way of
doing it.
As stated, "it ain't brain surgery" it's just "stop the leak with what you
got" time.

Caution: If you melt the washer, you are out of a working car.

Bottom line: Call "Q" and stock up on what ever replaces them.

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 10:06 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

> > G Mann wrote:
>
> > 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
> > 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
> > while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
> > the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
> > heat.
>
> That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
> and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
> target for Aluminum.
>
> I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
> temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
> supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
> only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
> soap and watch for it turns black.
>
> The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
> http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
> Probably overkill for annealing a washer!
>
> > 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
> > You should get a nice "PSssh}
>
> Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
> affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
> or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
> (iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.
>
> --   Philip
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Fmiser
> G Mann wrote:

> 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
> 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
> while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
> the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
> heat.

That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
target for Aluminum.  

I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
soap and watch for it turns black.

The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
Probably overkill for annealing a washer!

> 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
> You should get a nice "PSssh}

Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
(iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread G Mann
Just had the same problem on an 82 300 TD when I replaced the filter.
Removed and super cleaned the surfaces and the washer to be sure I had not
"created the problem" with foreign material, found none, re-torqued and
still leaked.

Removed the aluminum washer and annealed it, then a quench it in cold
water.  The anneal worked, upon torque the washer seal gave no leak.

To anneal the washer, I did this:

1. Made a washer holder from stainless safety wire, .032, which held the
washer flat like a frying pan with minimum contact from the safety wire
[it's not brain surgery after all.. so be inventive]
2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about 8 inches
long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer while turning it to
heat both sides of the flats until the .032 stainless wire just started to
show some redness from heat.
3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap]. You should get
a nice "PSssh}
4. Washer is now Annealed. install it like a new one.

Grant...

On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 3:10 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Hey,
>
> My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
> canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
> 240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a
> spare washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells
> me they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have
> this trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable
> replacement? Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?
>
> -Curt
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Curt Raymond
Egads, sounds like it might be time for a call to the classic center. Wish I 
had an excuse to swing by again...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 19:00:28 -0400
From: "Scott Ritchey" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer
Message-ID: <8280896AB68042FA8578892638D67DB3@ScottPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

Just my experience:  

I too was unable to source the alum washer from stealer.  My 83SD has the
alum washer and it tends to leak until I use MUCHO torque on the hollow bolt
(so much that I fear breaking something).  My 79TD had no alum washer but I
think it had had an additional upper O-ring/grove (can't say if this was
original); and my 79 filter bolt never leaked.  The 79 had a crate engine
installed by a PO and that crate engine may have had upgrades from original.

Looking at the online EPC, there are two versions of the hollow bolt
(A615-990-05-63 and A615-990-08-63) and two versions of the upper seal ring
(N007603-18101 and A000-997-00-48) with the first numbers applying to
earlier engines.  My guess is the N number is the old alum seal which was
later superseded by dual rubber O-rings in later engines.  I'm not sure if
you can just switch to the new style bolt and upper seal ring.  There are
also two styles of filter heads (the upper housing) and the old style filter
head may not seal with the upper rubber o-ring.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement?
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread buymbparts
All 3 numbers in EPC are rubber rings, trust me. I bought them all to see.


Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry®

-Original Message-
From: "Scott Ritchey" 
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 19:00:28 
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Just my experience:  

I too was unable to source the alum washer from stealer.  My 83SD has the
alum washer and it tends to leak until I use MUCHO torque on the hollow bolt
(so much that I fear breaking something).  My 79TD had no alum washer but I
think it had had an additional upper O-ring/grove (can't say if this was
original); and my 79 filter bolt never leaked.  The 79 had a crate engine
installed by a PO and that crate engine may have had upgrades from original.

Looking at the online EPC, there are two versions of the hollow bolt
(A615-990-05-63 and A615-990-08-63) and two versions of the upper seal ring
(N007603-18101 and A000-997-00-48) with the first numbers applying to
earlier engines.  My guess is the N number is the old alum seal which was
later superseded by dual rubber O-rings in later engines.  I'm not sure if
you can just switch to the new style bolt and upper seal ring.  There are
also two styles of filter heads (the upper housing) and the old style filter
head may not seal with the upper rubber o-ring.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement?
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Scott Ritchey
Just my experience:  

I too was unable to source the alum washer from stealer.  My 83SD has the
alum washer and it tends to leak until I use MUCHO torque on the hollow bolt
(so much that I fear breaking something).  My 79TD had no alum washer but I
think it had had an additional upper O-ring/grove (can't say if this was
original); and my 79 filter bolt never leaked.  The 79 had a crate engine
installed by a PO and that crate engine may have had upgrades from original.

Looking at the online EPC, there are two versions of the hollow bolt
(A615-990-05-63 and A615-990-08-63) and two versions of the upper seal ring
(N007603-18101 and A000-997-00-48) with the first numbers applying to
earlier engines.  My guess is the N number is the old alum seal which was
later superseded by dual rubber O-rings in later engines.  I'm not sure if
you can just switch to the new style bolt and upper seal ring.  There are
also two styles of filter heads (the upper housing) and the old style filter
head may not seal with the upper rubber o-ring.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement?
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread rmassmann
Try a hydraulic fitting store. This is typical for a metric hydraulic 
fitting.


-Original Message- 
From: Curt Raymond

Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 6:10 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the 
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83 
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare 
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me 
they're NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this 
trouble? Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement? 
Anybody ever anneal an aluminum washer?


-Curt

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[MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-21 Thread Curt Raymond
Hey,

My '78 240D tends to eat the aluminum washer on the hollow bolt for the 
canister fuel filter. Last time I replaced it I snagged the one from my '83 
240D. I'm wanting to do a diesel purge and filter and figured to get a spare 
washer in case this one leaked after the replacement but Rusty tells me they're 
NA, that theres a rubber seal ring instead. Anybody else have this trouble? 
Anybody try a dealer? Is the rubber ring a suitable replacement? Anybody ever 
anneal an aluminum washer?

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum V-6

2011-01-19 Thread John Freer
05 was the last year for the MB I6..unlike B*W who has stayed true to form.
John

On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 6:58 PM,   wrote:
>> ...If they're gonna splay the cylinders in a vee, I'll take the 420 CDI
>> instead of
>> the 350. (but I'd rather have the straight six)..
>>
> There is no straight sixanymore.
>
> RLE
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum V-6

2011-01-19 Thread RELNGSON
> ...If they're gonna splay the cylinders in a vee, I'll take the 420 CDI 
> instead of
> the 350. (but I'd rather have the straight six)..
> 
There is no straight sixanymore.

RLE
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-10-03 Thread Robert & Tara Ludwick
I was working in a machine shop then, and everytime someone brought a 
vega engine through the door, we'd tell them right off that the head was 
most likely going to be trashed beyond repair. Every one that came in 
was either warped or cracked, most were too far gone to fix, and it was 
generally cheaper and faster for the customer to just buy a new head. 
It's funny, as many of those things I fooled with, I can't , for the 
life of me, remember what they looked like. Was that some of that 
useless GM injected molded aluminum that looked like styrofoam?

---Robert

Tom Hargrave wrote:
> I don't know the final solution but I do know that the Vega engines were
> produced at Tonawanda Engine, not far from where I lived at the time.
> Several family members worked at the factory & my Uncle's neighbor was an
> Engineer at the facility. He stated that the issue was piston skirt wear and
> that GM actually solved the problem before selling to Mercedes. I know that
> GM re-designed the pistons but I don't remember what was actually done or my
> Uncle's neighbor did not go into that much detail. Remember, this was 30
> years ago.
>
> By the time GM solved the wear issue, too much damage had been done to the
> brand and GM could not recover. The first MB engine produce with this
> technology was the 380, used in the late 80's & early 90's SL's. Too bad the
> early 380's had single row timing chains. At the same time, independent
> shops started rebuilding out of warranty Vega engines with pressed in iron
> sleeves. I don't believe the sleeve was a GM design but I could be wrong.
>
> The Vega was actually a great daily driver and the body held up better than
> anything Ford put out in the 70's. South of Buffalo NY, where I lived, is
> the absolute worse place to own a car & the 2 worse cars to own in the 70's
> were AMC and Ford (in that order). I've seen 3 year old Ford LTD's with
> holes in the fenders large enough to drop a soft ball through. A high school
> buddy's Ford wagon actually sagged in the middle on the way home from school
> one day. It was so bad that the doors would not open! The wagon was right at
> 5 years old.
>
> GM also screwed the US diesel market with their Olds based diesel. This was
> also a good engine by 1981 but just like the Vega, too much damage had been
> done to the brand and GM could not recover. But the damage caused by GM's
> diesel screw-up was much further reaching than the Vega screw-up. They hurt
> the entire diesel car market, including Mercedes, which is why you see few
> Mercedes diesels around from the mid-80's on. No-one in this country but die
> hard diesel fans wanted a diesel from anyone by the time the air cleared
> around GM's disaster.
>
> I owned a 1981 Pontiac Bonniville with the Olds diesel & it was a wonderful
> car. I trashed the engine at 155,000 miles. I had replaced both radiator
> hoses & did not properly tighten the bottom radiator clamp. The hose slipped
> off about 2 weeks later & before I realized what was going on the engine was
> toast. My only complaint was that the filter would suddenly plug and when it
> did, you had very little power. Also, the filter was outrageously expensive.
> I used to keep a spare & a set of wrenches in the trunk.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> www.kegkits.com
> 256-656-1924
>  
>
> -Original Message-
> From: archer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:58 PM
> To: Tom Hargrave
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum
>
> RLE points out:
> "That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was used in the Porsche 944, 968 and
>
> 928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the M112 V-6 in my C320.  And the 
> blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner."
>
> What was the piston skirt solution used in those engines; pistons made of 
> the same high silicon alloy?
> Gerry
>
> -
>   
>> From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> The issue with the Vega was that the piston skirts would not hold up
>> against the much harder exposed silicone. The skirts would wear to the
>> point where the pistons would actually rock in the bores and when bad
>> enough, would score the cylinder walls. Some were bored out and had iron
>> sleeves pressed in. The softer iron was much easier on the piston
>> skirts. This turned out to be an expensive lesson on mismatched
>> materials.
>> Thanks, Tom
>> 256-656-1924
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>> Sent: 9/2

Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-10-01 Thread Tom Hargrave
I don't know the final solution but I do know that the Vega engines were
produced at Tonawanda Engine, not far from where I lived at the time.
Several family members worked at the factory & my Uncle's neighbor was an
Engineer at the facility. He stated that the issue was piston skirt wear and
that GM actually solved the problem before selling to Mercedes. I know that
GM re-designed the pistons but I don't remember what was actually done or my
Uncle's neighbor did not go into that much detail. Remember, this was 30
years ago.

By the time GM solved the wear issue, too much damage had been done to the
brand and GM could not recover. The first MB engine produce with this
technology was the 380, used in the late 80's & early 90's SL's. Too bad the
early 380's had single row timing chains. At the same time, independent
shops started rebuilding out of warranty Vega engines with pressed in iron
sleeves. I don't believe the sleeve was a GM design but I could be wrong.

The Vega was actually a great daily driver and the body held up better than
anything Ford put out in the 70's. South of Buffalo NY, where I lived, is
the absolute worse place to own a car & the 2 worse cars to own in the 70's
were AMC and Ford (in that order). I've seen 3 year old Ford LTD's with
holes in the fenders large enough to drop a soft ball through. A high school
buddy's Ford wagon actually sagged in the middle on the way home from school
one day. It was so bad that the doors would not open! The wagon was right at
5 years old.

GM also screwed the US diesel market with their Olds based diesel. This was
also a good engine by 1981 but just like the Vega, too much damage had been
done to the brand and GM could not recover. But the damage caused by GM's
diesel screw-up was much further reaching than the Vega screw-up. They hurt
the entire diesel car market, including Mercedes, which is why you see few
Mercedes diesels around from the mid-80's on. No-one in this country but die
hard diesel fans wanted a diesel from anyone by the time the air cleared
around GM's disaster.

I owned a 1981 Pontiac Bonniville with the Olds diesel & it was a wonderful
car. I trashed the engine at 155,000 miles. I had replaced both radiator
hoses & did not properly tighten the bottom radiator clamp. The hose slipped
off about 2 weeks later & before I realized what was going on the engine was
toast. My only complaint was that the filter would suddenly plug and when it
did, you had very little power. Also, the filter was outrageously expensive.
I used to keep a spare & a set of wrenches in the trunk.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: archer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:58 PM
To: Tom Hargrave
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

RLE points out:
"That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was used in the Porsche 944, 968 and

928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the M112 V-6 in my C320.  And the 
blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner."

What was the piston skirt solution used in those engines; pistons made of 
the same high silicon alloy?
Gerry

-
> From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> The issue with the Vega was that the piston skirts would not hold up
> against the much harder exposed silicone. The skirts would wear to the
> point where the pistons would actually rock in the bores and when bad
> enough, would score the cylinder walls. Some were bored out and had iron
> sleeves pressed in. The softer iron was much easier on the piston
> skirts. This turned out to be an expensive lesson on mismatched
> materials.
> Thanks, Tom
> 256-656-1924
>
> -Original Message-
> From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: 9/28/07 9:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum
>
>> < wrote: GM built a small
> car;
>> I
>> forget its name; which had aluminum blocks/heads made of high silicon
>> aluminum IIRC. The high silicon aluminum cylinder walls were supposed
> to
>> wear well
>> but they didn't.>>
>
>> <>
>
> The Vega's design fault was inadequate cooling, certainly not the
> Reynolds
> alloy the block was cast in. That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was
> used
> in the Porsche 944, 968 and 928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the
> M112
> V-6 in my C320.
> And the blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner.
> RLE
> 
> So, if you rebuild one of those engines you simply replace the pistons,
> rings, etc. since the cylinders can't be bored and oversized; or if the
> cylinders are out of spec you replace the block?
> Gerry



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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels - head gasket oil leak

2007-10-01 Thread Peter Merle
I have an external oil leak around the chain tensioner on my non turbo
OM603. Should I replaced head gasket or should I wait for some
catastrophic event?
PEter 


The 60X heads were re-designed a couple times, and most of them, even 
the -14- heads, work fine.  The -14- heads WILL crack if overheated, 
pretty much without exception.  The oil passage problem has been cured 
with a re-enforced head gasket, now containing a metalized section 
across the oil passage.

All of them can warp or collapse if seriously overheated though.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Cavitation is a serious problem only in direct injection diesels with 
thin cylinder  walls (think the large displacement Powerstrokes, not 
the original smaller displacement ones). The problem is that the 
cylinder flexes in and out with the pressure pulses of injection, 
causing a vapor bubble to occur in contact with the coolant side as the 
wall "pops" in and out.  When the bubble of water vapor collapses, the 
impact of the water from the liquid side erodes the cast iron of the 
cylinder wall (or liner).   Often shows up as a row of neat, exactly 
the same diameter holes down the liner or cast in place cylinder.  Some 
people are convinced this is electrolysis, by the way, which it is NOT.

MB has always used generous amounts of material in their block 
castings, and has never had a problem with cavitation.  I don't 
remember any instances of coolant passages cracking in use to the 
outside as has become common in Cummins six cylinder truck diesels 
lately, either -- again, the problem is insufficient material, flexing 
due to running vibration causes the very thin cast iron to fatigue and 
crack (also known as stress corrosion these days).

The 60X heads were re-designed a couple times, and most of them, even 
the -14- heads, work fine.  The -14- heads WILL crack if overheated, 
pretty much without exception.  The oil passage problem has been cured 
with a re-enforced head gasket, now containing a metalized section 
across the oil passage.

All of them can warp or collapse if seriously overheated though.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-09-28 Thread Peter Frederick
The silicone wears at about 1/5 the rate of high nickel cast iron -- in 
MB terms, that means 2.5 million miles, average

Serious overheating, though, can kill them due to lack of piston 
clearance.

The ones I've seen, usually when getting a valve job and sent off for 
installation of block inserts (early 380/420/500 M116/M117 blocks) 
showed no wear at all, couldn't tell they weren't brand new at 250,000 
miles or so, or when the 420 dropped a chain.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Marshall Booth
archer wrote:
> 1.  I wonder if cavitation might play a role in the cracking of cast iron 
> and/or aluminum heads:

Cavitation has NEVER been a problem with Mercedes indirect diesels and 
since ONLY the head and the head gasket were redesigned to eliminate he 
603 problems I expect dealing with cavitation had NOTHING to do with 
making the 603.96 engines bulletproof.

The original #14 heads were flawed - didn't have sufficient tolerance to 
handle minor system failures. Without any OTHER system failures (bad fan 
clutch, stuck thermostat, partially plugged trap, etc.) the heads held 
up pretty well. A small percentage of ALL 60x engines, 4, 5 and 6 
cylinder with and without turbos did blow out the head gasket between 
the #1 cylinder and the chain vault allowing pressurized oil into the #1 
cylinder and I've heard of a few non-trap 603.96 engine did develop 
cracked heads I'm told, but the total was less than a few percent if the 
numbers I've accumulated are representative.

All of those OM60x engines were designed to be used with MB coolant and 
potable water. Nothing else was required if the engine was properly 
maintained. Driving with a partially plugged trap is driving an engine 
that has NOT been properly maintained. Measuring and servicing the trap 
is covered in the engine manual.

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-09-28 Thread Mitch Haley


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> The Vega's design fault was inadequate cooling, certainly not the Reynolds
> alloy the block was cast in.

Which block did the 1976 Cosworth Vega have?
I don't think the Vega/Astre had a decent reputation unless they had
Pontiac 151ci Iron Duke engines in them, but it's certainly possible
there was a good aluminum block in later years which failed to 
overcome the old block's reputation. My brother's new Vega was a
'73, he overheated it on the freeway in '74 and it drank oil like
crazy after that. Then his wife drove it 200 miles w/o oil and it
never developed enough compression to start again.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Mitch Haley


archer wrote:
> 
> 2.  Could Harrys good results using a waterless coolant that boils at 375
> degrees be because it does not form cavitation bubbles?

I don't know, but there are anti-cavitation additives you are supposed
to add to the green antifreeze in older Navistar/Ford diesels. For
the last five years or so they use yellow antifreeze similar to MBZ
or G-05, and I don't think that stuff needs the additive. Evans doesn't
need it because you are 150+ degrees away from the boiling point. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread archer
1.  I wonder if cavitation might play a role in the cracking of cast iron 
and/or aluminum heads:
snip."a low pressure cavitation bubble in a liquid will begin to 
collapse due to the higher pressure of the surrounding medium. As the bubble 
collapses, the pressure and temperature of the vapor within will increase. 
The bubble will eventually collapse to a minute fraction of its original 
size, at which point the gas within dissipates into the surrounding liquid 
via a rather violent mechanism, which releases a significant amount of 
energy in the form of an acoustic shock-wave and as visible light. At the 
point of total collapse, the temperature of the vapor within the bubble may 
be several thousand kelvin, and the pressure several hundred atmospheres."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation#Inertial_cavitation

This has been (is?) a major problem in heavy duty diesel engines with wet 
cylinder liners when the wrong coolant was used.
snip."A common occurrence of cavitation damage is the waterside pitting 
of a wet sleeve liner in a diesel engine"snip
http://adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2003ASAJ..114.2386C

2.  Could Harrys good results using a waterless coolant that boils at 375 
degrees be because it does not form cavitation bubbles?
-
- Original Message - 
From: "Harry Watkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> I, as a majority of one, will again throw my support to the use of Evans
> waterless antifreeze, especially if you have a #14 head.  I am convinced
> that with a boiling point of 375 degrees, you will escape the big repair
> job.
>
> True story, I was 30 miles from home in my 95 Toyota pickup and noticed 
> the
> temp needle as it was entering the red zone.  I wanted to go another mile 
> or
> so before pulling over, so I turned the heater full blast and opened all 
> the
> windows.  When I didn't get roasted by the heater, I knew the coolant had 
> to
> be near gone so I pulled over and shut it down.
>
> When I opened the hood there was no steam.  With rag in hand, I eased the
> cap toward loose and got one small hiss and removed the cap.  I carry 
> extra
> Evans in all my vehicles so I added the half gallon available and returned
> home.
>
> The culprit was a small coolant line going to the oil cooler that had a
> small chaffed hole.
>
> I believe the Evans stuff saved me serious engine damage.  I have it in 
> all
> my cars except the one I bought this week, give me a week and it will be
> there also.  Its been in my SDL for over five years, the one with a leak
> near the top of the radiator for the last three or four years.
>
> Now, if all of you will buy some, I'll be filthy rich.
>
> Signed, Harry Evans
>
>
> On 9/28/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> The technology works perfectly -- Benz has used it since the 380 -- GM
>> typically saved money on the design against engineering opinion and
>> left out the cooling passage between 1&2 and 3&4 to save money in
>> casting -- the result was that even running warm in traffic, let alone
>> actual overheating caused the piston clearance to vanish and the
>> cylinder walls to scuff -- they typically burned a quart of oil in 200
>> miles within a year or two.  When the engine was redesigned to fix the
>> problem (as I said, the problem was introduced by upper management)
>> they work very well.
>> Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-09-28 Thread E M
they can be rebored, just not many places are set up to do it.  They last
almost forever though, ok, not forever, but a very very long time.  If they
are out of round, maybe something else going on?

Ed
300E

On 28/09/2007, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > < wrote: GM built a small
> car;
> > I
> > forget its name; which had aluminum blocks/heads made of high silicon
> > aluminum IIRC. The high silicon aluminum cylinder walls were supposed to
> > wear well
> > but they didn't.>>
>
> > <>
>
> The Vega's design fault was inadequate cooling, certainly not the Reynolds
> alloy the block was cast in. That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was
> used
> in the Porsche 944, 968 and 928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the M112
> V-6 in my C320.
> And the blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner.
> RLE
> 
> So, if you rebuild one of those engines you simply replace the pistons,
> rings, etc. since the cylinders can't be bored and oversized; or if the
> cylinders are out of spec you replace the block?
> Gerry
> Gerry
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread OK Don
Speaking of Diesel heads vs. gas - I just noticed in the Tech Data
book that the 103 engine has 12 head bolts and the 603 engine has 26 -
30 if you count those around the chain vault.

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-09-28 Thread archer
> < wrote: GM built a small car; 
> I
> forget its name; which had aluminum blocks/heads made of high silicon
> aluminum IIRC. The high silicon aluminum cylinder walls were supposed to 
> wear well
> but they didn't.>>

> <>

The Vega's design fault was inadequate cooling, certainly not the Reynolds
alloy the block was cast in. That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was used 
in the Porsche 944, 968 and 928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the M112 
V-6 in my C320.
And the blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner.
RLE

So, if you rebuild one of those engines you simply replace the pistons, 
rings, etc. since the cylinders can't be bored and oversized; or if the 
cylinders are out of spec you replace the block?
Gerry
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-09-28 Thread RELNGSON
> < wrote: GM built a small car; I 
> forget its name; which had aluminum blocks/heads made of high silicon 
> aluminum IIRC.  The high silicon aluminum cylinder walls were supposed to 
> wear well 
> but they didn't.>>
> 
> <>
> 
The Vega's design fault was inadequate cooling, certainly not the Reynolds 
alloy the block was cast in. That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was used in 
the Porsche 944, 968 and 928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the M112 V-6 in 
my C320.

And the blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner.

RLE



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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Harry Watkins
I, as a majority of one, will again throw my support to the use of Evans
waterless antifreeze, especially if you have a #14 head.  I am convinced
that with a boiling point of 375 degrees, you will escape the big repair
job.

True story, I was 30 miles from home in my 95 Toyota pickup and noticed the
temp needle as it was entering the red zone.  I wanted to go another mile or
so before pulling over, so I turned the heater full blast and opened all the
windows.  When I didn't get roasted by the heater, I knew the coolant had to
be near gone so I pulled over and shut it down.

When I opened the hood there was no steam.  With rag in hand, I eased the
cap toward loose and got one small hiss and removed the cap.  I carry extra
Evans in all my vehicles so I added the half gallon available and returned
home.

The culprit was a small coolant line going to the oil cooler that had a
small chaffed hole.

I believe the Evans stuff saved me serious engine damage.  I have it in all
my cars except the one I bought this week, give me a week and it will be
there also.  Its been in my SDL for over five years, the one with a leak
near the top of the radiator for the last three or four years.

Now, if all of you will buy some, I'll be filthy rich.

Signed, Harry Evans


On 9/28/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The technology works perfectly -- Benz has used it since the 380 -- GM
> typically saved money on the design against engineering opinion and
> left out the cooling passage between 1&2 and 3&4 to save money in
> casting -- the result was that even running warm in traffic, let alone
> actual overheating caused the piston clearance to vanish and the
> cylinder walls to scuff -- they typically burned a quart of oil in 200
> miles within a year or two.  When the engine was redesigned to fix the
> problem (as I said, the problem was introduced by upper management)
> they work very well.
>
> Peter
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Peter Frederick
The technology works perfectly -- Benz has used it since the 380 -- GM 
typically saved money on the design against engineering opinion and 
left out the cooling passage between 1&2 and 3&4 to save money in 
casting -- the result was that even running warm in traffic, let alone 
actual overheating caused the piston clearance to vanish and the 
cylinder walls to scuff -- they typically burned a quart of oil in 200 
miles within a year or two.  When the engine was redesigned to fix the 
problem (as I said, the problem was introduced by upper management) 
they work very well.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Marshall Booth
Dan Weeks wrote:
>> Wow. So the thing has an aluminum head?
>> If the stupid thing can't take a minute at 120C or so, then I'm not
>> sure it's such a good car afterall.
>>

Virtually all of the 1st generation aluminum diesel heads (from almost 
all Euro car makes) were less than spectacularly robust (especially 
those with turbo equipped engines) and considerably more likely to fail 
than older engines with iron heads. The 2nd and third generation heads 
were virtually as durable as the iron heads. The Mercedes heads used in 
603.96 engines (1986 Federal certified 126.125s) that were not equipped 
with factory oxidation traps were very much less likely to crack than 
the '86 California and '87 Federal cars were all trap equipped.

The problem wasn't that the head wouldn't stand 120 deg C, but that it 
wouldn't tolerate prolonged coolant boiling which requires about 4X the 
heat to move the coolant through the the phase change window. Trap 
equipped cars that were largely city driven in stop and go driving 
experienced a large number cracked heads (between 20-25% by my count). 
This was because a partially blocked trap (very common in city driven 
cars) exposed the engine to temperature extremes in stop and go driving 
with the AC on. If the head didn't crack, once the trap was remove the 
frequency of head failure dropped, but did NOT vanish. That's because 
often the head would actually crack under the excessive trap generated 
heat, but didn't fail until the head was disturbed (like by pulling the 
head, replacing the head gasket or being seriously overheated).

I own an '87 300TD and the service I've received from the 603.96 engine 

has been exemplary - super car, super engine, super service. If it were 
to fail tomorrow, It has been the most satisfactory car I've ever owned 
(but hardly the cheapest to own) for the 20+ years I've owned it!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Rich Thomas
It's a wonder the engines lasted longer than the cars; although, I 
understand the few that are left are in high demand by drag racers for 
some reason.

--R

archer wrote:
>> On 9/28/07, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> 
>>>  GM built a small car; I forget its name; which had aluminum
>>> blocks/heads made of high silicon aluminum IIRC.  The high silicon 
>>> aluminum
>>> cylinder walls were supposed to wear well but they didn't.
>>>   
>> Wasn't that the Vega?  BMW had the same problem with the 3-liter and
>> 4-liter V-8s in '94 and '95 5-series and 7-series cars.  Never heard
>> of any head problems with those, but many people got a free short
>> block under an extended warranty (with redesigned cylinder liners made
>> of a new, improved alloy).
>> 
> -
> I think that was the Vega.  It seems like GM installed steel liners in the 
> Vega engines as a fix.
> Steel can be heat-treated to take the stresses out of forgings and molded 
> parts but I've forgotten whether aluminum and cast iron can be heat-treated. 
> It would seem like heat-treating aluminum heads (if that's possible) would 
> decrease the likelyhood of cracking.
> Gerry 
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread archer
> On 9/28/07, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>  GM built a small car; I forget its name; which had aluminum
>> blocks/heads made of high silicon aluminum IIRC.  The high silicon 
>> aluminum
>> cylinder walls were supposed to wear well but they didn't.
>
> Wasn't that the Vega?  BMW had the same problem with the 3-liter and
> 4-liter V-8s in '94 and '95 5-series and 7-series cars.  Never heard
> of any head problems with those, but many people got a free short
> block under an extended warranty (with redesigned cylinder liners made
> of a new, improved alloy).
-
I think that was the Vega.  It seems like GM installed steel liners in the 
Vega engines as a fix.
Steel can be heat-treated to take the stresses out of forgings and molded 
parts but I've forgotten whether aluminum and cast iron can be heat-treated. 
It would seem like heat-treating aluminum heads (if that's possible) would 
decrease the likelyhood of cracking.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread R A Bennell
I had a 74 Vega with the aluminum block engine. I think that the head was cast 
iron.

The problem with the aluminum block in that case was that there were no 
sleeves. The block was a high silicon
content aluminum. The aluminum was etched back to leave the silicon as the wear 
surface. Unfortunately, these
engines were prone to overheating (too little radiator? ). If overheated, then 
the cylinder was ofter damaged and
there was no means of repair in the field. The block could not be bored out and 
honed and re-used as there was no
way to etch the aluminum back as had happened at the factory.

I live in Winnipeg and I assume that the cooler temperatures here on the 
Canadian prairies may have saved me as I
drove one for several years with no engine problems.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of archer
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 1:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels



In that case, aluminum heads mated with aluminum blocks should have less
problems.  GM built a small car; I forget its name; which had aluminum
blocks/heads made of high silicon aluminum IIRC.  The high silicon aluminum
cylinder walls were supposed to wear well but they didn't.  Do aluminum
block Japanese engines have steel piston liners or are they built like the
GM engines?
Gerry



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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 9/28/07, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  GM built a small car; I forget its name; which had aluminum
> blocks/heads made of high silicon aluminum IIRC.  The high silicon aluminum
> cylinder walls were supposed to wear well but they didn't.

Wasn't that the Vega?  BMW had the same problem with the 3-liter and
4-liter V-8s in '94 and '95 5-series and 7-series cars.  Never heard
of any head problems with those, but many people got a free short
block under an extended warranty (with redesigned cylinder liners made
of a new, improved alloy).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread archer

In that case, aluminum heads mated with aluminum blocks should have less 
problems.  GM built a small car; I forget its name; which had aluminum 
blocks/heads made of high silicon aluminum IIRC.  The high silicon aluminum 
cylinder walls were supposed to wear well but they didn't.  Do aluminum 
block Japanese engines have steel piston liners or are they built like the 
GM engines?
Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Iron heads & iron blocks expand by the same amount when heated. Aluminum
> grows faster than iron when heated. This is why cracking aluminum heads on 
> a
> iron blocks is such a problem.

> On Behalf Of Peter Merle
> Iron heads are not immune to cracking , I had done , history unknown
> though. Perhaps their tolarance level is a bit higher.

> From: OK Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yup - same as my 603 in the 300SDL ---

>> Love my 617 with nearly 300k
>> miles and the original head and head gasket.
>> Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 9/28/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  I'm personally surprised the 603 heads were so much of a
> problem though -- Benz has been using aluminum heads on gassers since
> the 50's.
>

Surely the much higher compression ratio was a factor?

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Peter Frederick
Cast iron isn't immune to cracking problems either -- MB had fits in 
the 60's when they decided to do their own rather than contract the 
design in a rather ham-fisted corperate re-arrangement.  It was so bad 
they were forced by the German courts to give a 50,000 mile warrenty 
against cracked heads on the diesels.

Aluminum has several advantages over cast iron for heads -- it's much 
lighter, it's easier to machine (all MB heads have had hardened steel 
valve guides and valve seats since the 1930s, and it's much easier to 
cast intricate cooling passages in, leading to higher horsepower output 
with better cooling passages and better heat transfer.

It is much softer than cast iron, though, and can fatigue crack much 
more, though.  I'm personally surprised the 603 heads were so much of a 
problem though -- Benz has been using aluminum heads on gassers since 
the 50's.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Jim Cathey
> Iron heads & iron blocks expand by the same amount when heated. 
> Aluminum
> grows faster than iron when heated. This is why cracking aluminum 
> heads on a
> iron blocks is such a problem.

I believe that for head gasket problems, but the head cracking
itself I'm less able to envision.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Tom Hargrave
Iron heads & iron blocks expand by the same amount when heated. Aluminum
grows faster than iron when heated. This is why cracking aluminum heads on a
iron blocks is such a problem.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

Iron heads are not immune to cracking , I had done , history unknown
though. Perhaps their tolarance level is a bit higher.

PEter

-Original Message-
From: OK Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 28 September 2007 03:27
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels


Yup - same as my 603 in the 300SDL ---


> Love my 617 with nearly 300k
> miles and the original head and head gasket.
>
> Dan


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply
Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-28 Thread Peter Merle
Iron heads are not immune to cracking , I had done , history unknown
though. Perhaps their tolarance level is a bit higher.

PEter

-Original Message-
From: OK Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 28 September 2007 03:27
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels


Yup - same as my 603 in the 300SDL ---


> Love my 617 with nearly 300k
> miles and the original head and head gasket.
>
> Dan


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply
Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-27 Thread OK Don
Yup - same as my 603 in the 300SDL ---


> Love my 617 with nearly 300k
> miles and the original head and head gasket.
>
> Dan


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-27 Thread archer
>> You mean to tell me that it is
>> literally that easy to destroy a Mercedes Benz?

> Or anything else with an aluminum head.
> -- Jim

> Yeah--just ask any long-time VW or Peugeot (that dates me!) diesel
> owner. All aluminum-head diesels seem to eventually crack and/or
> warp. My brother the diesel mechanic thinks its thermal shock. Over
> and over and over, and you get cracks. The heads literally just wear
> out from cracking, and you need a new one every 150k miles or so.
> I've owned 3 VW d's, and every one of 'em has cracked a head, even
> with no overheating. And the Peugeot 504D--hell of a car. I'd take it
> over a 240D. Wonderfully engineered, with wet liners and everything.
> But a damned aluminum head. After you could no longer get parts for
> them over here, you had a lawn ornament. Love my 617 with nearly 300k
> miles and the original head and head gasket.
> Dan
--
Years ago I knew a semi-retired mechanic, Oscar, who had been chief mechanic 
at (Warshawskis?) shop in Chicago.  At that time Peugeot gas engines (504s?) 
were still around and still famous for their durability.  Both the Russian 
(Moskva taxis?) and Japanese Toyota had copied them for their cars.  (You 
could set that Peugeot engine alongside a Toyota engine and could barely 
tell them apart.)

Peugeot had come out with their first aluminum head diesels, which I was 
dubious about because of experience with VW Beetle heads warping and 
aircraft engines being damaged from shock cooling.

Oscar thought the Peugeot aluminum head diesels would hold up fine because 
of Peugeots reputation for expert engineering and I didn't.
They didn't, and Peugeot re-engineered them; but it hurt their reputation. 
It was one of the few times Oscar was wrong and I was right.  He was one of 
the most knowledgeable mechanics I've ever known.
Gerry 


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[MBZ] Aluminum Head Diesels

2007-09-27 Thread Dan Weeks
> Wow. So the thing has an aluminum head?
> If the stupid thing can't take a minute at 120C or so, then I'm not
> sure it's such a good car afterall.
>

That is why we often recommend the more bulletproof 61X iron
motors used in the 123 and such.  The 60X is a superior motor
in everything but tolerance to overheating.


> You mean to tell me that it is
> literally that easy to destroy a Mercedes Benz?
>

Or anything else with an aluminum head.

-- Jim

Yeah--just ask any long-time VW or Peugeot (that dates me!) diesel  
owner. All aluminum-head diesels seem to eventually crack and/or  
warp. My brother the diesel mechanic thinks its thermal shock. Over  
and over and over, and you get cracks. The heads literally just wear  
out from cracking, and you need a new one every 150k miles or so.  
I've owned 3 VW d's, and every one of 'em has cracked a head, even  
with no overheating. And the Peugeot 504D--hell of a car. I'd take it  
over a 240D. Wonderfully engineered, with wet liners and everything.  
But a damned aluminum head. After you could no longer get parts for  
them over here, you had a lawn ornament. Love my 617 with nearly 300k  
miles and the original head and head gasket.

Dan



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Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-10 Thread Trampas
I think it is only the diesel 126s. I have a 500SEL rust bucket that
defiantly does not..

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:06 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

On Tue, 09 Jan 2007 11:41:57 -0500 "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> There are a lot of 116 and 126 cars in use today that have steelhoods
> and  trunk lids, after body repairs, as most shops use steel
> replacements for the  original aluminum hoods.  That's a good check to
> see if the car has been in  a wreck!

Do all the 126 cars have aluminum hoods and trunk lids? Any exceptions?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-10 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 09 Jan 2007 11:41:57 -0500 "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> There are a lot of 116 and 126 cars in use today that have steelhoods
> and  trunk lids, after body repairs, as most shops use steel
> replacements for the  original aluminum hoods.  That's a good check to
> see if the car has been in  a wreck!

Do all the 126 cars have aluminum hoods and trunk lids? Any exceptions?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-09 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Kevin,

The W116 300SD also had aluminum hood and trunk lid.  No replacement  
aluminum hoods/trunk lids were/are available in US AFAIK.   All  
gasser versions had steel.


Purpose was to reduce overall weight inasmuch as the 617.95x engines  
were heavier than gas 450SE's.


Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Jan 9, 2007, at 1:52 AM, kevin kraly wrote:

I remember someone posting something a while back about how some  
Mercedes'
have aluminum hoods.  I noticed that my 300SD has both an aluminum  
hood and
trunk lid since my trusty magnet doesn't stick to them.  Is this  
also true

for other Mercedes models?

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula


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Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-09 Thread Werner Fehlauer
There are a lot of 116 and 126 cars in use today that have steelhoods and 
trunk lids, after body repairs, as most shops use steel replacements for the 
original aluminum hoods.  That's a good check to see if the car has been in 
a wreck!


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "Glenn M. Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 11:24 AM
Subject: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?



My '76 450SL has an aluminum hood, but steel trunk lid.
G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY





[MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-09 Thread Glenn M. Brown
My '76 450SL has an aluminum hood, but steel trunk lid.
G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY


Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-09 Thread OK Don

The w107 line changed from steel to aluminum hoods and trunk lids in
the middle of '81 with the introduction of the 380SL and SLC in the US
- both the lighter parts and the smaller engine were to improve fuel
economy.


> I remember someone posting something a while back about how some Mercedes'
> have aluminum hoods.  I noticed that my 300SD has both an aluminum hood and
> trunk lid since my trusty magnet doesn't stick to them.  Is this also true
> for other Mercedes models?
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there."
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-09 Thread Steve MacSween
The w116 and w126 turbodiesels had aluminum hoods and trunklids to reduce
weight a bit.

mac

on 1/9/07 3:52 AM, kevin kraly at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I remember someone posting something a while back about how some Mercedes'
> have aluminum hoods.  I noticed that my 300SD has both an aluminum hood and
> trunk lid since my trusty magnet doesn't stick to them.  Is this also true
> for other Mercedes models?
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
> 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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[MBZ] aluminum hood and trunk lid?

2007-01-09 Thread kevin kraly
I remember someone posting something a while back about how some Mercedes' 
have aluminum hoods.  I noticed that my 300SD has both an aluminum hood and 
trunk lid since my trusty magnet doesn't stick to them.  Is this also true 
for other Mercedes models?


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] Aluminum vs cast iron, I guess

2006-03-05 Thread RELNGSON
<>

Wrong.

Weight is certainly one thing, but with a silicon aluminum block (used by 
Porsche and MB and others for decades) bore wear is nearly non-existent in 
normal 
service.

RLE


Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread Don & Teresa Merriman
Hyperutecnic {is the term} US piston manufactures have been making 
hyperutecnic pistons for about 10 years. High silicon content allows for 
closer piton to wall clearance thus producing less emissions. The piston is 
stronger than a cast piston but not as strong as a forged piston. Will 
withstand more detonation. 
 My 380SEL with 487,000 miles is still standard aluminum bore size as is the 
crank std./std.
 Adios Don

 On 9/11/05, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> 
> Actually, the casting process that is still in use -- the alloy is
> essentially saturated with silicon, and the bores are cooled while the
> rest of the block is kept hot. This causes some the silicon to
> crystalize out in the bore area. When the bores are machined, they
> have a surface with a large amount of silicon exposed. The aluminum
> surrounding the silicon is then etched away, leaving a very hard,
> porous surface.
> 
> It should wear at a rate less than 1/5 the rate of high nickel cast
> iron of the type used in MB sleeves on cast iron engines, and in fact,
> if not abused, will last as long as the car if not longer.
> 
> The problem with the Vega was insufficient cooling passages and a solid
> casting between the two sets of cylinder pairs (between 1-2 and 3-4) --
> if the engine got too hot the block expanded in this area and piston
> clearance vanished. The scuffing that resulted caused terrible oil
> consumption problems, as anyone old enough remembers. Even being a
> little bit low on coolant in slow traffic could cause this.
> 
> It was cured, simply enough, by re-designing the block to include
> cooling passages between the cylinder pairs and reducing the thickness
> of the bore casting in a few other places so the pistons didn't get
> "pinched". Bad engineering, or to put it better, not getting the
> design finished before production started. Later Vegas are still
> running, if the body is intact (another whole discussion --they rusted
> so badly it was scary!)
> 
> Peter
> On Saturday, September 10, 2005, at 10:10 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > <,The casting process is alive and well -- Rover uses it on an old GM
> > aluminum block V8 (the Buick one from 1960 or so) and Benz uses it in
> > all their engines these days, so there is nothing wrong with the
> > technology. GM just failed to do the design correctly.>>
> >
> > Actually, what is shared to this day by Mercedes (and Porsche) from
> > the poor old Vega is the Reynolds aluminum alloy, not the "casting"
> > process which is entirely different, particularly at Porsche. As to
> > Rover (BMW), they have abandoned the underpowered old GM designed V-8
> > for BMW power.
> >
> > RLE/Seattle
> >
> > ___
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
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> 
> 


-- 
Don & Teresa Merriman
Market Place Mexico
Vacation Rentals
Property Administration
www.marketplacemexico.com 


Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread Peter Frederick
Actually, the casting process that is still in use -- the alloy is 
essentially saturated with silicon, and the bores are cooled while the 
rest of the block is kept hot.  This causes some the silicon to 
crystalize out in the bore area.  When the bores are machined, they 
have a surface with a large amount of silicon exposed.  The aluminum 
surrounding the silicon is then etched away, leaving a very hard, 
porous surface.


It should wear at a rate less than 1/5 the rate of high nickel cast 
iron of the type used in MB sleeves on cast iron engines, and in fact, 
if not abused, will last as long as the car if not longer.


The problem with the Vega was insufficient cooling passages and a solid 
casting between the two sets of cylinder pairs (between 1-2 and 3-4) -- 
if the engine got too hot the block expanded in this area and piston 
clearance vanished.  The scuffing that resulted caused terrible oil 
consumption problems, as anyone old enough remembers.  Even being a 
little bit low on coolant in slow traffic could cause this.


It was cured, simply enough, by re-designing the block to include 
cooling passages between the cylinder pairs and reducing the thickness 
of the bore casting in a few other places so the pistons didn't get 
"pinched".  Bad engineering, or to put it better, not getting the 
design finished before production started.  Later Vegas are still 
running, if the body is intact (another whole discussion --they rusted 
so badly it was scary!)


Peter
On Saturday, September 10, 2005, at 10:10  PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


<,The casting process is alive and well -- Rover uses it on an old GM
aluminum block V8 (the Buick one from 1960 or so) and Benz uses it in
all their engines these days, so there is nothing wrong with the
technology.  GM just failed to do the design correctly.>>

Actually, what is shared to this day by Mercedes (and Porsche) from 
the poor old Vega is the Reynolds aluminum alloy, not the "casting" 
process which is entirely different, particularly at Porsche. As to 
Rover (BMW), they have abandoned the underpowered old GM designed V-8 
for BMW power.


RLE/Seattle

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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread Luther Gulseth

or me.

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 23:00:31 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


It's OK - we only pay attention to typos and spelling errors when
Kaleb makes them -- --

On 9/10/05, Rory <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

That would be "throughout"








--
Luther  KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix)
'82 300D '90 300E (both parts or can run??)



Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread OK Don
It's OK - we only pay attention to typos and spelling errors when
Kaleb makes them -- --

On 9/10/05, Rory <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That would be "throughout"
> 


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread Rory
That would be "throughout"

   They've recently abandoned the BMW engines in favor of Jaguar engines 
> thorughout the line.
>  -- 
> Rory Morrison
> Oroville, WA
> 1985 300SD
> 1982 300TD 
>


Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread Rory
> "they have abandoned the underpowered old GM designed V-8 for BMW power"

 They've recently abandoned the BMW engines in favor of Jaguar engines 
thorughout the line.
 -- 
Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD


Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

As to Rover (BMW), they have abandoned the underpowered old GM designed V-8
for BMW power.

<< Sign ze papers, herr Rover Direcktor, or Auntie in Barston Vells eest
KAPUT!. >>

Mac 


Re: [MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread OK Don
Is MB building any aluminum block Diesels?

The old Buick V8 (the turbo version with a hotter cam, headers, 4
barrel, minus the dead turbo) sure pushed my MGA plenty fast. It
didn't have good oil to the cam - everyone I saw (4?) had the same
three lobes worn severely. Yes, a modern BMW engine would be far
superior, but the old Buick could be a nice engine for it's time.
Steve Wittman used one (inverted) in his Tailwind -- flew many hours
behind it.

On 9/10/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> <,The casting process is alive and well -- Rover uses it on an old GM
>  aluminum block V8 (the Buick one from 1960 or so) and Benz uses it in
>  all their engines these days, so there is nothing wrong with the
>  technology.  GM just failed to do the design correctly.>>
>  
>  Actually, what is shared to this day by Mercedes (and Porsche) from the
> poor old Vega is the Reynolds aluminum alloy, not the "casting" process
> which is entirely different, particularly at Porsche. As to Rover (BMW),
> they have abandoned the underpowered old GM designed V-8 for BMW power.
>  
>  RLE/Seattle



-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



[MBZ] Aluminum blocks, here we go yet again

2005-09-11 Thread RELNGSON
<,The casting process is alive and well -- Rover uses it on an old GM
aluminum block V8 (the Buick one from 1960 or so) and Benz uses it in
all their engines these days, so there is nothing wrong with the
technology.  GM just failed to do the design correctly.>>

Actually, what is shared to this day by Mercedes (and Porsche) from the poor 
old Vega is the Reynolds aluminum alloy, not the "casting" process which is 
entirely different, particularly at Porsche. As to Rover (BMW), they have 
abandoned the underpowered old GM designed V-8 for BMW power.

RLE/Seattle


Re: [MBZ] Aluminum block V6 MB diesel...200, 000+ per year estimated - interesting

2005-08-10 Thread TimothyPilgrim
And don't forget the second article:

http://www.hydro.com/en/press_room/news/archive/no_news_view/v6_engine_facts_en.html

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 8/10/05, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://www.hydro.com/en/press_room/news/archive/2005_02/mercedes_engineblock_en.html



[MBZ] Aluminum block V6 MB diesel...200, 000+ per year estimated - interesting

2005-08-10 Thread Christopher McCann
http://www.hydro.com/en/press_room/news/archive/2005_02/mercedes_engineblock_en.html


Christopher McCann, Raytown, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 208K miles, "Wulf" 
(http://www.pictureblogger.com/My-1985-Mercedes-Benz-300SD)
-1976 240D, ManyK miles,  "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen 
= Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)
-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 99K miles, "The Van"

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