Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 08:19:10 -0500 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Here is the link, lots of other useful / fun reading too.
> 
> http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/micfaq.htm#mictsthvd

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html is the main Table of
Contents. It shows LOTS of useful information.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On November 24, 2019 at 1:30 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I remember those from when I was a kid. Our neighbors had one with two dials, 
> best control system for a microwave I've ever seen. I'd have one if they made 
> a small model.Small microwaves today are all junk. They're cheap but don't 
> work well and don't last...

My little pushbutton Samsung Carousel II has given me zero trouble.
As best as I can recall it's the only one I've used that went more than ten 
years with every display segment still working.
Bought it on sale in the Fall of 1992 for $60. Boxed it up from fall 1993 to 
spring 2012, been in constant use for since then. I wish I could trust a new 
$60 microwave to match that performance.

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I remember those from when I was a kid. Our neighbors had one with two dials, 
best control system for a microwave I've ever seen. I'd have one if they made a 
small model.Small microwaves today are all junk. They're cheap but don't work 
well and don't last...
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 10:23 AM, Jim Cathey via 
Mercedes wrote:   > Amana  built quality stuff back 
then.  I consider it the 240D of microwaves.

I love ours.  It's been in use since the house was built in 1978.  Equivalent
price today would be something like $3000, and it's built like it.  I've 
repaired
it several times.  Bad electrolytic capacitors in the touch panel, fatigued 
fuses,
and broken door springs.  Oh, and a glass floor dish.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> Amana  built quality stuff back then.  I consider it the 240D of microwaves.

I love ours.  It's been in use since the house was built in 1978.  Equivalent
price today would be something like $3000, and it's built like it.  I've 
repaired
it several times.  Bad electrolytic capacitors in the touch panel, fatigued 
fuses,
and broken door springs.  Oh, and a glass floor dish.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I saved the info for future reference.

I liked the comment at the end about the original Amana radar ranges.   
They do indeed "run forever"   I got one at the university junk sale 20+ 
years ago without the glass dish at the bottom.  I never found a used 
glass dish, so I bought a new one for more than the price of the oven. 
It still is in use up Nort.   It works fine.   Amana  built quality 
stuff back then.  I consider it the 240D of microwaves.



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
November 24, 2019 at 7:19 AM
I was going to send this but got interrupted. Probably a good thing,
looks like your diodes are not high voltage with a big power drop.
Maybe useful later.

Do you know how to test high voltage diodes? I found a good test for
the big diode in a microwave, using a car battery and a resistor in
series with the diode. Measure the voltage drop on the diode, should
be 6 volts with the diode allowing current (proper orientation) and
then full battery voltage when you reverse the orientation. 12v
should be more than enough to flow current, a typical DMM using a 9v
battery is usually not enough voltage to test a big HV diode.

Here is the link, lots of other useful / fun reading too.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/micfaq.htm#mictsthvd

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

I was going to send this but got interrupted.  Probably a good thing,
looks like your diodes are not high voltage with a big power drop.
Maybe useful later.

Do you know how to test high voltage diodes?  I found a good test for
the big diode in a microwave, using a car battery and a resistor in
series with the diode. Measure the voltage drop on the diode, should
be 6 volts with the diode allowing current (proper orientation) and
then full battery voltage when you reverse the orientation.  12v
should be more than enough to flow current, a typical DMM using a 9v
battery is usually not enough voltage to test a big HV diode.

Here is the link, lots of other useful / fun reading too.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/micfaq.htm#mictsthvd

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

You are measuring junction voltage while conducting a dribble of current.  The 
voltage drop across the junction is largely irrelevant, other than that the 
smaller it is the less energy is wasted as heat.  This might matter in some 
kind of sensitive analog circuit, but this is a  brute force power application. 
 Junction voltage varies with the current through it, the junction temperature, 
and the exact chemical process details.  There is no single number to measure 
or compare.

If it works well, great.  It's possible that your new diodes are just better 
than the old, or that the failing one had partially failed for some time before 
it died.  Hard to know.  Chances are that you only had to replace the one dead 
one to be fully back in business.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

That's good news!
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:55 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
>
> Dunno if its my imagination or not, but it seems like the welder is
> better now than before the diode blew.   The welds this afternoon are
> smoother so either I am improving or the welder is smoother now with the
> mostly new diodes.I don't think I improved that much, so I think it
> is the new diodes.
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Dunno if its my imagination or not, but it seems like the welder is 
better now than before the diode blew.   The welds this afternoon are 
smoother so either I am improving or the welder is smoother now with the 
mostly new diodes.    I don't think I improved that much, so I think it 
is the new diodes.

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 14:03:32 -0600 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Here is the instruction
> https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter
> 
> My fluke does not have a diode setting, but my old ECG meter does.   I 
> used the ecg meter.  for some reason it reads 2.63 open circuit; and
> red to -.  but forward (red to +) it reads correctly.

The meter has (or mimics) a constant current source. In the forward
direction, the current goes through the diode and biases it into
conduction. The meter then reads the voltage drop across the diode.

In the reverse direction with a good diode, there is very little current
flowing through the diode and the current source goes to its open circuit
voltage, typically causing the meter to read infinity or its digits to
flash.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Here is the instruction
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter

My fluke does not have a diode setting, but my old ECG meter does.   I 
used the ecg meter.  for some reason it reads 2.63 open circuit; and red 
to -.  but forward (red to +) it reads correctly.



tyee165 via Mercedes 
November 23, 2019 at 1:16 PM
What are you measuring?


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[tyee165 via Mercedes]

What are you measuring?Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 Date: 2019-11-23  10:39 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Meade 
Dillon via Mercedes  Cc: Curley McLain 
<126die...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question) Got 12 diodes 
that test .53 or above.  Found one bad one and 7 that are around .49.    So 
most were weak and one bad.   I think the rain has stopped, so its time to put 
humpthy together again and see if it will melt steel.> Meade Dillon via 
Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> November 23, 2019 at 7:50 AM> So are 
you back to melting steel yet?> -> Max> Charleston 
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

How many diodes does it take to make a buzz box buzz like a buzz box 
should?   In this case 12.   It no longer has a loud buzz, but buzzes 
like a buzz box should. I declare success!


Jim,  You are undoubtedly right, however I figured balancing the 
readings is like balancing the injector nozzles on a good Diesel.   I 
took the 12 highest and closest between the new and old.


The reference I read said they should be .50 or above.  quibbling over 
.49 or .50, I agree is not significant.  My meter could be off by .01 
easily.   It is off my 2-3 ohms on the ohmmeter setting, I know.



Jim Cathey 
November 23, 2019 at 11:01 AM

I don't think that kind of difference is generally significant. It's 
like weighing crowbars,

and quibbling about an ounce or two.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> Got 12 diodes that test .53 or above.  Found one bad one and 7 that are 
> around .49.So most were weak and one bad.

I don't think that kind of difference is generally significant.  It's like 
weighing crowbars,
and quibbling about an ounce or two.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Got 12 diodes that test .53 or above.  Found one bad one and 7 that are 
around .49.    So most were weak and one bad.   I think the rain has 
stopped, so its time to put humpthy together again and see if it will 
melt steel.



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
November 23, 2019 at 7:50 AM
So are you back to melting steel yet?
-
Max
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

The new diodes are in. Unfortunately when I went back to fleabay, I 
ordered the bag of 10 in place of the bag of 20 by mistake.   I am about 
to set to testing diodes.  I have to decide if I should replace just the 
one that is bad, or replace 10 and reuse 2 old ones.   I had intended to 
replace all 12.   As soon as I segregate bad from new and good, I'll 
start putting humpty back together again.


Then, I hope the melting steel begins again.    No old microwaves to use 
though.   Sorry Jim.


But if I hang around Jim and Rich long enough, I may start designing 
circuits sometime.


(Actually in the 80s, when Revent wanted $200 for a timer buzzer, I went 
to radiojunk and bought 12vDC buzzers and transformers and full wave 
bridge rectifiers and built my own.   THat way I could make each oven 
have a distinct sound so we could tell from a distance which oven had 
timed out.  There were 3 double rack double chamber revents and 3 
rotating ovens.    We had one guy that was deaf, so I added a red rotary 
light to one oven for him as a visual timer.)



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
November 23, 2019 at 7:50 AM
So are you back to melting steel yet?
-
Max
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

So are you back to melting steel yet?
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[fmiser via Mercedes]

> Curley wrote:

> I have the rectifier assembly out.  It has 12   25 Amp button
> diodes. At least 1 has been replaced.  It has a number AR25G  I
> found a spec sheet but it seems to be an obsolete number.
> Found 25 on fleabay for $22, but no spec other than 25A. I'd
> rather nor wait a week for them to get here, and I'd like to
> have other specs to compare.

Knowing what is in there is 25 A, 400 V, package type "AR" you
just need to find anything that will mount and has specs no less
than the above.

I found this cross reference
http://bitsavers.trailing-edge.com/components/motorola/_dataBooks/1992_Motorola_Rectifier_Device_Data.pdf

It shows a Motorola MR2504 to be a replacement.

>   mouser and digikey come up blank.

MR2504 shows obsolete...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MR2504?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduh1l%2FY5PNUdJIk3hRSB0ECJvJYrtuCc4qk%3D

Also look for ARS25G, GI2504, RA253, RA254.  They also cross to the MR2504

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I have the rectifier assembly out.  It has 12   25 Amp button diodes.  
At least 1 has been replaced.  It has a number AR25G  I found a spec 
sheet but it seems to be an obsolete number.   Found 25 on fleabay for 
$22, but no spec other than 25A. I'd rather nor wait a week for them to 
get here, and I'd like to have other specs to compare.


 mouser and digikey come up blank.

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[G Mann via Mercedes]

A my error.
Amend suggestion to "Take it back to the Lincoln dealer " , since they are
most likely to have both the parts and the schematic and history of failure
necessary to quickly and properly repair the welder.

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 11:19 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Made by Lincoln, not in CHina.  Not HF.
>
> G Mann via Mercedes wrote on 11/12/19 12:54 PM:
> > Take the welder back to Harbor Freight... ask them to replace it with a
> new
> > one..
> > I bet they will
> > Worth a try, in any case..
> > They now have a quite good product support in place..
> >
> > On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 10:12 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Well, yes, but finding an exact replacement is problematic.
> >>
> >> See the last few posts on this thread, Page 1.
> >>
> >> https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
> >>
> >> It has 6 button diodes.  Apparently similar to what is used in car
> >> alternators.   As of now, the volt and amp rating are unknown.
> >>
> >> this schematic shows the big brother 240V version of this welder, and if
> >> you look at the rectifier, mine is similar, but it only has one 6 diode
> >> rectifier.
> >> https://www.weldmart.com/main/technical/centurymig_troubleshooting.html
> >>
> >> Or I could buy/scrounge some other Full wave bridge rectifier.
> >> as seen in page 2 of this thread.
> >> https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
> >> (Same as first link, but page 2.)
> >>
> >> Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote on 11/11/19 10:59 PM:
> >>> Is the diode replaceable?
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
>  On Nov 11, 2019, at 11:28 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>  Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder
> >> buzz loud.
> 
> 
> 
>  I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of
> >> november...
>  then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it
> down
> >> right away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded
> like
> >> the fan may be loose on the motor shaft.
>  THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I
> >> have not used it more than 20%.
>  I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve,
> >> and the wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz
> >> when I plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas
> valve
> >> or wire feed.)
>  Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation
> >> failure somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it
> buzz
> >> loud?  Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought I'd
> try
> >> it when the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It was not
> >> hot today, about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

I would probably just buy the whole rectifier and be done with it.

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Made by Lincoln, not in CHina.  Not HF.

G Mann via Mercedes wrote on 11/12/19 12:54 PM:

Take the welder back to Harbor Freight... ask them to replace it with a new
one..
I bet they will
Worth a try, in any case..
They now have a quite good product support in place..

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 10:12 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Well, yes, but finding an exact replacement is problematic.

See the last few posts on this thread, Page 1.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696

It has 6 button diodes.  Apparently similar to what is used in car
alternators.   As of now, the volt and amp rating are unknown.

this schematic shows the big brother 240V version of this welder, and if
you look at the rectifier, mine is similar, but it only has one 6 diode
rectifier.
https://www.weldmart.com/main/technical/centurymig_troubleshooting.html

Or I could buy/scrounge some other Full wave bridge rectifier.
as seen in page 2 of this thread.
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
(Same as first link, but page 2.)

Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote on 11/11/19 10:59 PM:

Is the diode replaceable?

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 11, 2019, at 11:28 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder

buzz loud.




I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of

november...

then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down

right away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded like
the fan may be loose on the motor shaft.

THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I

have not used it more than 20%.

I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve,

and the wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz
when I plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas valve
or wire feed.)

Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation

failure somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it buzz
loud?  Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought I'd try
it when the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It was not
hot today, about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.



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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Take the welder back to Harbor Freight... ask them to replace it with a new
one..
I bet they will
Worth a try, in any case..
They now have a quite good product support in place..

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 10:12 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Well, yes, but finding an exact replacement is problematic.
>
> See the last few posts on this thread, Page 1.
>
> https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
>
> It has 6 button diodes.  Apparently similar to what is used in car
> alternators.   As of now, the volt and amp rating are unknown.
>
> this schematic shows the big brother 240V version of this welder, and if
> you look at the rectifier, mine is similar, but it only has one 6 diode
> rectifier.
> https://www.weldmart.com/main/technical/centurymig_troubleshooting.html
>
> Or I could buy/scrounge some other Full wave bridge rectifier.
> as seen in page 2 of this thread.
> https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
> (Same as first link, but page 2.)
>
> Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote on 11/11/19 10:59 PM:
> > Is the diode replaceable?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Nov 11, 2019, at 11:28 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder
> buzz loud.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of
> november...
> >>
> >> then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down
> right away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded like
> the fan may be loose on the motor shaft.
> >>
> >> THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I
> have not used it more than 20%.
> >>
> >> I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve,
> and the wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz
> when I plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas valve
> or wire feed.)
> >>
> >> Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation
> failure somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it buzz
> loud?  Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought I'd try
> it when the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It was not
> hot today, about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> it has 6 diodes in place of the ordinary 4.

Smells to me like they're using an alternator pack.
Cheaper that way?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

yes.   30v and 150 amp or 200 amp should do it.   About $20 on fleabay 
if you can wait a month for it to get here from china.  Probably for $30 
or 40 I can get one quicker.


I want to dig out the original before I decide what to do.   it has 6 
diodes in place of the ordinary 4.  There is a good auto electric here 
that may have the originals.


OK Don via Mercedes wrote on 11/11/19 11:23 PM:

Hmm - it rectifies the AC output of the transformer to DC does it not? So,
what is the max voltage and amperage of the output? Size them a bit larger
...





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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[OK Don via Mercedes]

Hmm - it rectifies the AC output of the transformer to DC does it not? So,
what is the max voltage and amperage of the output? Size them a bit larger
...

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 11:12 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Well, yes, but finding an exact replacement is problematic.
>
> See the last few posts on this thread, Page 1.
>
> https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
>
> It has 6 button diodes.  Apparently similar to what is used in car
> alternators.   As of now, the volt and amp rating are unknown.
>
> this schematic shows the big brother 240V version of this welder, and if
> you look at the rectifier, mine is similar, but it only has one 6 diode
> rectifier.
> https://www.weldmart.com/main/technical/centurymig_troubleshooting.html
>
> Or I could buy/scrounge some other Full wave bridge rectifier.
> as seen in page 2 of this thread.
> https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
> (Same as first link, but page 2.)
>
> Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote on 11/11/19 10:59 PM:
> > Is the diode replaceable?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Nov 11, 2019, at 11:28 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder
> buzz loud.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of
> november...
> >>
> >> then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down
> right away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded like
> the fan may be loose on the motor shaft.
> >>
> >> THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I
> have not used it more than 20%.
> >>
> >> I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve,
> and the wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz
> when I plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas valve
> or wire feed.)
> >>
> >> Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation
> failure somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it buzz
> loud?  Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought I'd try
> it when the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It was not
> hot today, about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Well, yes, but finding an exact replacement is problematic.

See the last few posts on this thread, Page 1.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696

It has 6 button diodes.  Apparently similar to what is used in car 
alternators.   As of now, the volt and amp rating are unknown.


this schematic shows the big brother 240V version of this welder, and if 
you look at the rectifier, mine is similar, but it only has one 6 diode 
rectifier.

https://www.weldmart.com/main/technical/centurymig_troubleshooting.html

Or I could buy/scrounge some other Full wave bridge rectifier.
as seen in page 2 of this thread.
https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1362696
(Same as first link, but page 2.)

Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote on 11/11/19 10:59 PM:

Is the diode replaceable?

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 11, 2019, at 11:28 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder buzz 
loud.




I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of november...

then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down right 
away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded like the fan 
may be loose on the motor shaft.

THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I have not 
used it more than 20%.

I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve, and the 
wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz when I plugged 
it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas valve or wire feed.)

Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation failure 
somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it buzz loud?  
Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought I'd try it when the 
temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It was not hot today, about 
70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.



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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Is the diode replaceable?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 11, 2019, at 11:28 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder buzz 
> loud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of november...
> 
> then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down right 
> away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded like the fan 
> may be loose on the motor shaft.
> 
> THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I have 
> not used it more than 20%.
> 
> I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve, and the 
> wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz when I 
> plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas valve or wire 
> feed.)
> 
> Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation failure 
> somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it buzz loud?  
> Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought I'd try it when 
> the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It was not hot today, 
> about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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[MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Doing some online research, it seems like a blown diode makes a welder 
buzz loud.





I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of november...

then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down 
right away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded 
like the fan may be loose on the motor shaft.


THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I 
have not used it more than 20%.


I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve, and 
the wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz 
when I plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas 
valve or wire feed.)


Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation 
failure somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it 
buzz loud?  Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought 
I'd try it when the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It 
was not hot today, about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.




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[MBZ] Uh oh! (Welder question)

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I was welding on an MB one day.   in the merry merry month of november...

then the welder started buzzing when I was not welding.  I shut it down 
right away, then tried it again a couple times.   I thought it sounded 
like the fan may be loose on the motor shaft.


THe welder is a Century 100  125v  100 A mig. 20% duty cycle.   I 
have not used it more than 20%.


I took off the cover, unplugged the wires to the fan, the gas valve, and 
the wire feed motor.  THat left only the 2 transformers.   Same buzz 
when I plugged it in and turned on the switch. (Without the fan, gas 
valve or wire feed.)


Here is the question.   I assume this means there was an insulation 
failure somewhere.   Is this correct or would something else make it 
buzz loud?  Tomorrow is supposed to be 30-40º colder temp, so I thought 
I'd try it when the temp is 30-40º to see if that makes a difference. It 
was not hot today, about 70 or so.  That should not have been a factor.




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