Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump...
Well played, sir. On Sat, Aug 17, 2019, 9:26 AM Frederick Moir via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > Or not. > > On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 11:41 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > > That sucks when it happens > > > > --FT > > > > On 8/16/19 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote: > > > ...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder. > > > > > > > > > --- > > > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > > > https://www.avg.com > > > > > > > > > ___ > > > http://www.okiebenz.com > > > > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > > > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > > > > . > > > > > -- > > --FT > > > > > > ___ > > http://www.okiebenz.com > > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > > > > -- > Fred Moir > Lynn MA > Diesel preferred > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump...
Or not. On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 11:41 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > That sucks when it happens > > --FT > > On 8/16/19 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote: > > ...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder. > > > > > > --- > > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > > https://www.avg.com > > > > > > ___ > > http://www.okiebenz.com > > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > > . > > > -- > --FT > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > -- Fred Moir Lynn MA Diesel preferred ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump...
That sucks when it happens --FT On 8/16/19 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote: ...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com . -- --FT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump...
On Fri, 16 Aug 2019 22:35:21 -0400 Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: > No. Bad booster? > -- > Max Dillon > Charleston SC Maybe bad master cylinder which caused bad booster which caused bad vacuum pump? Craig > On August 16, 2019 9:31:00 PM EDT, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" > wrote: > >...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump...
No. Bad booster? -- Max Dillon Charleston SC On August 16, 2019 9:31:00 PM EDT, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" wrote: >...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder. > > >--- >This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. >https://www.avg.com > > >___ >http://www.okiebenz.com > >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump...
...Will be destroyed by a bad master cylinder. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump oil
Actually you should change it regularly. If you do a lot of service, it's almost monthly. There are guidelines which I don't remember, but I do remember them surprising me at how often it should be changed. I'm not sure either, but for somebody who uses it once or twice a year, or might leave it on the shelf unused for 2 years straight, I think the safe way is to change it after every use. I ran it for 1/2 hour last winter when I bought it, but didn't have any oil on hand at the time. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump oil
Those who have vac pumps for A/C service, what do you do for pump oil? All my local options are in the $15-20 per quart range. Advance Auto had a clearance sale on Robinaire oil for $6.99, but not in the stores. I'd have to order a case of 12, which is way more than a lifetime supply. I found Mobil pump oil for $6.14 +$5 shipping on eBay. Ordered it yesterday AM, got it from UPS today. Half a gallon for $17.28, it was as if NAPA had a 'buy one get one' sale. Now it will be years before I have to buy the stuff again. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321069135288 Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump oil
Actually you should change it regularly. If you do a lot of service, it's almost monthly. There are guidelines which I don't remember, but I do remember them surprising me at how often it should be changed. From: m...@voyager.net m...@voyager.net To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2013 3:11 PM Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump oil Those who have vac pumps for A/C service, what do you do for pump oil? All my local options are in the $15-20 per quart range. Advance Auto had a clearance sale on Robinaire oil for $6.99, but not in the stores. I'd have to order a case of 12, which is way more than a lifetime supply. I found Mobil pump oil for $6.14 +$5 shipping on eBay. Ordered it yesterday AM, got it from UPS today. Half a gallon for $17.28, it was as if NAPA had a 'buy one get one' sale. Now it will be years before I have to buy the stuff again. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321069135288 Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly. Take a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in mind that if this cam sprocket is worn, so will the IP timer sprocket and the crank sprocket. Those are not so easy to replace. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles? Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana rail is a tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I didn't use it. I have some extra rails I didn't use on the M116. Too hard to get to in the block, and on inspection, not worn badly; so I didn't use them. On the one OM616 I did, i put in a new banana rail. It was ~220k. The old banana rail would have worked for another 150k - 250k, but I just changed it. I did have the head off. I did use the bolt and prybar technique once, but it bends the bolt, so I prefer the stack of washers. Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k there should be no reason to change the lower guides, and the banana rail is questionable how worn it is. Change the chain and the tensioner, and maybe the rails in the head. (banana on the tensioner and the one on the IP side.) If the pistons and/or cyl liners need to be changed, then change the rails in the block, and the crank sprocket. 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
The crank sprocket would last at least 500k in an OM621. They will last longer in 616/617. You will wear out 2-3 crank sprockets before you will wear out the cam and timing sprockets. I'd check cam and timing sprockets at a million miles. Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly. Take a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in mind that if this cam sprocket is worn, so will the IP timer sprocket and the crank sprocket. Those are not so easy to replace. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
Can it be replaced later without breaking the chain apart? Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2013, at 9:48 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote: Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly. Take a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in mind that if this cam sprocket is worn, so will the IP timer sprocket and the crank sprocket. Those are not so easy to replace. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles? Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana rail is a tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I didn't use it. I have some extra rails I didn't use on the M116. Too hard to get to in the block, and on inspection, not worn badly; so I didn't use them. On the one OM616 I did, i put in a new banana rail. It was ~220k. The old banana rail would have worked for another 150k - 250k, but I just changed it. I did have the head off. I did use the bolt and prybar technique once, but it bends the bolt, so I prefer the stack of washers. Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k there should be no reason to change the lower guides, and the banana rail is questionable how worn it is. Change the chain and the tensioner, and maybe the rails in the head. (banana on the tensioner and the one on the IP side.) If the pistons and/or cyl liners need to be changed, then change the rails in the block, and the crank sprocket. 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
Again, good to hear! Sent from my iPhone On Jan 13, 2013, at 10:22 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: The crank sprocket would last at least 500k in an OM621. They will last longer in 616/617. You will wear out 2-3 crank sprockets before you will wear out the cam and timing sprockets. I'd check cam and timing sprockets at a million miles. Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly. Take a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in mind that if this cam sprocket is worn, so will the IP timer sprocket and the crank sprocket. Those are not so easy to replace. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is involved removing the vacuum pump. The shop manual (BBB) states that removing the pump is necessary to replace the lower two slide rails but I can't find the procedure for its removal in the manual. Also, these rails are down low so will I be able to view their condition? Any ideas? How about removing the pump? Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is involved removing the vacuum pump. The shop manual (BBB) states that removing the pump is necessary to replace the lower two slide rails but I can't find the procedure for its removal in the manual. Also, these rails are down low so will I be able to view their condition? Any ideas? How about removing the pump? Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
Well if it is like the 300D you just need to remove the pump from the front of the block, undoing 6 or 8 cap screws (a wobble socket extender works well) then take it off. Make sure everything is clean so no crap falls in the hole. Putting it back on it helps to rotate the engine so the cam is retracted and not pushing as hard on the pump spring plunger thingie. Here it all is http://www.constructivity.net/rebuilding_the_vacuum_pump.htm Taking off the PS pump makes life simpler. It only takes a few minutes and will save untold cussing and dropping of screws. --R On 1/12/13 5:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote: 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is involved removing the vacuum pump. The shop manual (BBB) states that removing the pump is necessary to replace the lower two slide rails but I can't find the procedure for its removal in the manual. Also, these rails are down low so will I be able to view their condition? Any ideas? How about removing the pump? Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k there should be no reason to change the lower guides, and the banana rail is questionable how worn it is. Change the chain and the tensioner, and maybe the rails in the head. (banana on the tensioner and the one on the IP side.) If the pistons and/or cyl liners need to be changed, then change the rails in the block, and the crank sprocket. 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k there should be no reason to change the lower guides, and the banana rail is questionable how worn it is. Change the chain and the tensioner, and maybe the rails in the head. (banana on the tensioner and the one on the IP side.) If the pistons and/or cyl liners need to be changed, then change the rails in the block, and the crank sprocket. 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana rail is a tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I didn't use it. I have some extra rails I didn't use on the M116. Too hard to get to in the block, and on inspection, not worn badly; so I didn't use them. On the one OM616 I did, i put in a new banana rail. It was ~220k. The old banana rail would have worked for another 150k - 250k, but I just changed it. I did have the head off. I did use the bolt and prybar technique once, but it bends the bolt, so I prefer the stack of washers. Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k there should be no reason to change the lower guides, and the banana rail is questionable how worn it is. Change the chain and the tensioner, and maybe the rails in the head. (banana on the tensioner and the one on the IP side.) If the pistons and/or cyl liners need to be changed, then change the rails in the block, and the crank sprocket. 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles? Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana rail is a tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I didn't use it. I have some extra rails I didn't use on the M116. Too hard to get to in the block, and on inspection, not worn badly; so I didn't use them. On the one OM616 I did, i put in a new banana rail. It was ~220k. The old banana rail would have worked for another 150k - 250k, but I just changed it. I did have the head off. I did use the bolt and prybar technique once, but it bends the bolt, so I prefer the stack of washers. Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles. Sent from my iPhone On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k there should be no reason to change the lower guides, and the banana rail is questionable how worn it is. Change the chain and the tensioner, and maybe the rails in the head. (banana on the tensioner and the one on the IP side.) If the pistons and/or cyl liners need to be changed, then change the rails in the block, and the crank sprocket. 240D On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles? Sent from my iPhone Zero Never heard of one needing to be replaced. I have replaced one crank sprocket, but it has twice the engagement, and more torque on it. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump diaphragm removal.
So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is involved removing the vacuum pump. The shop manual (BBB) states that removing the pump is necessary to replace the lower two slide rails but I can't find the procedure for its removal in the manual. Also, these rails are down low so will I be able to view their condition? Any ideas? How about removing the pump? Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump. Was: First experiment with HF tools
Mine also came with oil. Used it ten or twelve times so far with no problem. It also does an oil change much faster than a shopvac. The motor on a shopvac seems to get quite hot when doing oil changes. (Too hot?) Autozone tools have been OK so far. (Sears is a long drive.) Gerry '83 300D '83 240D From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net writes: A friend of mine bought an AC vacuum pump from them, then spent the rest of the day looking for the oil for it. Nice pump, but no vacuum pump oil in the store, no sign that it was necessary, the whole thing was a pain. I also bought an AC vacuum pump from them a year or two ago. Mine did come with oil. It's worked well for me so far, though I only use it on my own cars, maybe a couple of times a year tops. In a shop environment where it would see frequent use it may not be a good choice. I have never tried their hand tools, though. I'm hoping they are at least a step above Wal-Mart tools, but if they are not at least it's not a lot of money ventured. I'm guessing for moderate-to-low torque applications they will be fine for my purposes. Allan -- 1983 300D 1979 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3905 - Release Date: 09/18/11 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
Brown line is supply, brown with blue stripe goes to the servo. Yes, there are two lines to the keyswitch. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
I think Peter explained it well enough, but if not, I'll give it a shot. When in stop position, the two lines are connected by the keyswitch valve, and it doesn't matter which is which. In the run position, the shutoff valve side is open to atmosphere and the vacuum source side is closed off. This allows air to the shutoff valve so it can deactivate. Like Peter said, the line to the IP should have a vac leak in the running position and the line to the vac source should not. Also, if somebody stuck a one way valve in the shutoff line it would stay shut off. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
Brown line is supply, brown with blue stripe goes to the servo. Unless somebody reversed them at the valve when they had it apart! -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
you have the 2 vacuum lines reversed. Michael Esh wrote: Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a leaky connection under the dash. Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If I disconnect the line the car will start but not shut off. Any ideas? Mike On Nov 14, 2009, at 12:22 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: My auto shutoff is and not working correctly...about 5 pounds of vacuum when I check it. You might find the vacuum parts of our old 240D's saga interesting: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html A lot of wasted effort that was, in the end, solved with a drill bit. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
#6 is the straightest. it is most subject to the vibration. the others have more bends to absorb the stress. same as putting a coil in the line to/from a compressor. On 11/15/09 2:19 AM, Peter Frederick wrote: Brown line is supply, brown with blue stripe goes to the servo. Yes, there are two lines to the keyswitch. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- 87 300SDL, 87 300D, 81 240D, 200D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
My auto shutoff is and not working correctly. The car will not shut off on its own. If I add vacuum to the line with a hand vacuum pump the engine shuts off. I do have about 5 pounds of vacuum when I check it. With every thing blocked off, how much vacuum should the pump be pulling? Thanks, Mike 1984 300D 1985 300TD 1981 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
10-12 mercury at idle. Check for a cracked main line where all the secondary lines attach, this is a common failure and results in poor power brake reserve and low vac to everything else. A bad brake booster (split diaphragm) will also result in low vac, although usually with a fairly hard brake pedal too. Check for crud in the secondary line ports, they all have metering orifices in them. If they have collected crud, you will have inadequate vac. And, by this age, suspect ALL the vac lines in the engine compartment. The hard one crack, the rubber bits either turn to goo or petrify, and leak in either case. Last, if you have had a shut-off diaphragm go bad, the oil that creeps up the vac lines will kill the keyswitch valve, causing it to leak and failure to shut off. All the other stuff is cheaper than a vac pump repair, of course! To check the pump itself, I would recommend making an adapter to fit directly to the pump after removing the main line. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
My auto shutoff is and not working correctly...about 5 pounds of vacuum when I check it. You might find the vacuum parts of our old 240D's saga interesting: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html A lot of wasted effort that was, in the end, solved with a drill bit. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a leaky connection under the dash. Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If I disconnect the line the car will start but not shut off. Any ideas? Mike On Nov 14, 2009, at 12:22 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: My auto shutoff is and not working correctly...about 5 pounds of vacuum when I check it. You might find the vacuum parts of our old 240D's saga interesting: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html A lot of wasted effort that was, in the end, solved with a drill bit. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
Lines reversed at the ignition switch? Mitch. Michael Esh wrote: Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a leaky connection under the dash. Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If I disconnect the line the car will start but not shut off. Any ideas? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
Can you tell that I am novice ? There are two lines to the ignition? Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for a 1985 300TD Wagon? There is a lot more stuff under the hood on an 85 compared to the 82. Thanks Mike On Nov 14, 2009, at 9:36 PM, Mitch Haley wrote: Lines reversed at the ignition switch? Mitch. Michael Esh wrote: Thank you both for the info. I have corrected the problem, it was a leaky connection under the dash. Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If I disconnect the line the car will start but not shut off. Any ideas? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump 300D
Now I have a new problem. The car will not continue running after I hook up the vacuum line the allows the key to shut off the engine. If I disconnect the line the car will start but not shut off. Lines reversed to the vacuum valve on the keyswitch? Due to the venting required while the car is 'on' there would be a vacuum leak to the key if the switch is reversed, so you can test it from the firewall using a MityVac, or maybe just suck on the tube. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
I've never tried to do the job you did, but I recall similar frustrations with such jobs in the past. Sounds like you did it right. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Allan Streib Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:14 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question To continue talking to myself on this thread -- I decided that maybe the little tabs on the retaining disc were bent, just enough to not engage the lip on the pipe adapter. I gently hammered the tabs, and either they WERE bent a little, or the hammering flattened and elongated them enough to engage and hold the spring in place. I'm not sure how long this will last, but I can at least wait until I have enough other parts needs to get an order together. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
So -- I took my vacuum pump apart to install the repair kit parts. In the main pump body there is a brass adapter for the connection of the vacuum line. Behind or in this adapter seems to be some kind of check valve mechanism. I have three parts that came out of the bore where that adapter threads in. A small disc with three little tabs spaced equally around the perimiter, a small spring, and a small piston-like piece. I can't see any way to reinsert these and have them stay in place. They seemed to just be sort of loose in there when I took the pump apart but that sure does not seem right. Can anyone describe the correct order of assembly of these pieces? Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
Allan Streib wrote: So -- I took my vacuum pump apart to install the repair kit parts. In the main pump body there is a brass adapter for the connection of the vacuum line. Behind or in this adapter seems to be some kind of check valve mechanism. I have three parts that came out of the bore where that adapter threads in. A small disc with three little tabs spaced equally around the perimiter, a small spring, and a small piston-like piece. I can't see any way to reinsert these and have them stay in place. They seemed to just be sort of loose in there when I took the pump apart but that sure does not seem right. Can anyone describe the correct order of assembly of these pieces? It has been a year or three since I rebuilt my vacuum pump, but it sounds like a fallen-apart check valve? Didn't the kit come with new valves? Tom ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
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Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
Hm, that was supposed to have the following text as well tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: It has been a year or three since I rebuilt my vacuum pump, but it sounds like a fallen-apart check valve? Didn't the kit come with new valves? The old valves are all intact. These parts came out of the bore where the threaded adapter for the main vacuum line attachment is. I've attached a picture, sorry for the lousy quality but a cell phone is all I have at the moment. Allan A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0617082155.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 29703 bytes Desc: parts Url : http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20080617/e05999d3/attachment.jpg -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
Well this photo from Rusty's catalog seems to show that little three-tabbed disc inside the body of the adapter... http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/D301225391OES.JPG Guess somehow mine came apart. I'll see if I can get it back together. Perhaps this was really my problem all along Allan Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hm, that was supposed to have the following text as well tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: It has been a year or three since I rebuilt my vacuum pump, but it sounds like a fallen-apart check valve? Didn't the kit come with new valves? The old valves are all intact. These parts came out of the bore where the threaded adapter for the main vacuum line attachment is. I've attached a picture, sorry for the lousy quality but a cell phone is all I have at the moment. Allan A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0617082155.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 29703 bytes Desc: parts Url : http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20080617/e05999d3/attachment.jpg -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Well this photo from Rusty's catalog seems to show that little three-tabbed disc inside the body of the adapter... http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/D301225391OES.JPG Guess somehow mine came apart. I'll see if I can get it back together. Perhaps this was really my problem all along Nope absolutely will not stay together. Either the lip inside the adapter is worn, or the little tabs on the disc are, but either way it just pops right out. Damn, that part by itself does not meet the free shipping minimum. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump assembly question
To continue talking to myself on this thread -- I decided that maybe the little tabs on the retaining disc were bent, just enough to not engage the lip on the pipe adapter. I gently hammered the tabs, and either they WERE bent a little, or the hammering flattened and elongated them enough to engage and hold the spring in place. I'm not sure how long this will last, but I can at least wait until I have enough other parts needs to get an order together. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump failure
Mine did. Same symptoms as yours. 82 SD, happened at ca 290k Dan On Jun 13, 2008, at 9:18 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So now I'm thinking that my vacuum pump is failing. Do they normally exhibit this sort of intermittent operation when that happens? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump failure
Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Mine did. Same symptoms as yours. 82 SD, happened at ca 290k I'm only at about 185K miles. Still, 25 years old, assuming it's original. Did you repair it or put on a new pump? Quite a difference in price between the new pump and the repair kit. Current prices at Rusty's site are $399 for the pump and $54 for the valve repair kit. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
LarryT wrote: Howdy - Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn 96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556. Those things can pull a pretty good vacuum. Not really good enough for air conditioning work, but stronger than a shop vac I'm sure. The question is whether they pull enough volume to cause trouble. The shop vac pulls way too much volume for an oil sucker, this one probably can't build up excess volume through an open hose hooked up to the engine if you take off the oil fill cap on the engine. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
Thx Mitch - Actually I failed to mention the pump is supposed to work with ACs - altho I suspect it would be marginal at best - but I understand your concern that it may pull too much vacuum and collapse my vacuum container. I might be able to re-use my topsider if I can find the right sized hose - seems like I need 5/8 OD and 3/8 ID - will have to see if that's a standard hose size. SOmeone bought hose for a $2 pump at ACE so I'll check there 1st. Thx agn - Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 6:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker LarryT wrote: Howdy - Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn 96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556. Those things can pull a pretty good vacuum. Not really good enough for air conditioning work, but stronger than a shop vac I'm sure. The question is whether they pull enough volume to cause trouble. The shop vac pulls way too much volume for an oil sucker, this one probably can't build up excess volume through an open hose hooked up to the engine if you take off the oil fill cap on the engine. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
LarryT wrote: Thx Mitch - Actually I failed to mention the pump is supposed to work with ACs - altho I suspect it would be marginal at best - but I understand your concern that it may pull too much vacuum and collapse my vacuum container. You need a restriction to pull bucket bending vacuum. I'm not sure if a 3/8 hose full of hot thin oil is enough restriction or not, those venturi gizmos are a lot lower volume than a shop vac, but higher volume than a mechanical A/C pump. What I've been thinking of doing is get a 1/2 or 9/16 hose barb union fitting, wrapping friction tape around one end of it until it's a tight fit in the dipstick tube, and then running 1/2 or 9/16 hose to the bucket. Lots less restriction than 3/8 hose. Can probably do it with nylon mesh reinforced vinyl hose, or a chunk of old garden hose. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
I just had a wonderful thought about using the venturi vac pump: My air compressor has a regulated output. All I have to do it dial down the air pressure to set the vacuum wherever I want it. And the $8 vac pump is lightweight, compact, and I can probably find a way to mount it to the lid of my plastic hydraulic oil bucket. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
Y'all are really overthinking the $2 sucker -- just use a shop vac (even my little portable works well). --R Mitch Haley wrote: I just had a wonderful thought about using the venturi vac pump: My air compressor has a regulated output. All I have to do it dial down the air pressure to set the vacuum wherever I want it. And the $8 vac pump is lightweight, compact, and I can probably find a way to mount it to the lid of my plastic hydraulic oil bucket. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
Vacuum and Volume do not belong in the same sentence. How can you have an amount of nothing? Max vacuum is 1 atmosphere, period dot. after 32 it come only with sophisticated equipment. The reason you draw a vacuum in an A/C unit is to get rid the the water. You can not pull a deep vacuum if water is present, the water has to evaporate. Vacuum capacity would be the volume you can pull a required vacuum to over a stated period of time. Pete -- Original message -- From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] LarryT wrote: Howdy - Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn 96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556. Those things can pull a pretty good vacuum. Not really good enough for air conditioning work, but stronger than a shop vac I'm sure. The question is whether they pull enough volume to cause trouble. The shop vac pulls way too much volume for an oil sucker, this one probably can't build up excess volume through an open hose hooked up to the engine if you take off the oil fill cap on the engine. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
you;re probably right - I'll try the shop vac before I do anything else. I have some hose that's a little on the small size - wrapping it with tape may allow it to work. Now I need to find one of the gas cans I have and modify it to attach the oil hose and the vacuum hose.. Thanks -- Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker Y'all are really overthinking the $2 sucker -- just use a shop vac (even my little portable works well). --R Mitch Haley wrote: I just had a wonderful thought about using the venturi vac pump: My air compressor has a regulated output. All I have to do it dial down the air pressure to set the vacuum wherever I want it. And the $8 vac pump is lightweight, compact, and I can probably find a way to mount it to the lid of my plastic hydraulic oil bucket. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
I just used a regular plastic gas can, maybe 2 gal. The small vac hose end fits tightly in the pour hole. THe sucker hose barb fit nicely in the vent hole. I used the rigid poly tubing (3/8?) for the sucker end, it slides down the dipstick tube (though others report using a larger hose that just fits in the top of the dipstick tube). I like the smaller hose because it does not collapse as easily and it can get into tighter spots like the PS reservoir, brake reservoir, 700R4 tranny dipstick tube, etc. The can collapses but that does not affect functionality. --R LarryT wrote: you;re probably right - I'll try the shop vac before I do anything else. I have some hose that's a little on the small size - wrapping it with tape may allow it to work. Now I need to find one of the gas cans I have and modify it to attach the oil hose and the vacuum hose.. Thanks -- Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker Y'all are really overthinking the $2 sucker -- just use a shop vac (even my little portable works well). --R Mitch Haley wrote: I just had a wonderful thought about using the venturi vac pump: My air compressor has a regulated output. All I have to do it dial down the air pressure to set the vacuum wherever I want it. And the $8 vac pump is lightweight, compact, and I can probably find a way to mount it to the lid of my plastic hydraulic oil bucket. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
I originally bought a topsider because I didn't have any outside electricity at the apartment complex. Once we bought the house I started using the shop vac as its quicker. Recently I went back to using the manual pump on the topsider. Why? Its quiet... I find changing the oil with the topsider quite relaxing. I would bet dollars to donuts the topsider hose is the same diameter as snowmobile/motorcycle/dirtbike/ATV fuel line. I've got both in the garage maybe I'll go see... I did and it is. The standard clear 1/4 fuel line is thin so the OD is a little smaller. The blue type is thicker so the OD appears to be the same or maybe slightly smaller but the difference is really small. -Curt Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 08:55:05 -0400 From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original you;re probably right - I'll try the shop vac before I do anything else. I have some hose that's a little on the small size - wrapping it with tape may allow it to work. Now I need to find one of the gas cans I have and modify it to attach the oil hose and the vacuum hose.. Thanks -- Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump for oil sucker
If the oil sucker pump pulls too much vacuum, reduce it with an additional opening in the vac hose - not the oil evac tube - the vac hose from pump/vac to the oil receiver tank. BTW, 5/8 x 3/8 is a standard hose. Wilton ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump oil sucker
'Doesn't take much vacuum to SIPHON hot oil. Whatever vacuum the pump produces can be VERY easily regulated. Wilton ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump for oil sucker
Wilton Strickland wrote: If the oil sucker pump pulls too much vacuum, reduce it with an additional opening in the vac hose - not the oil evac tube - the vac hose from pump/vac to the oil receiver tank. I've decided to build mine with a scrap of standard 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD copper house plumbing pipe, and use 5/8 hose to the oil collector. I just checked a few minutes ago, and the 1/2 copper is a snug slip fit in both my 190D and my 190e. I assume my 300SD is the same size. More flow capacity in the oil tubing will lead to less pressure differential and quicker evacuation of the crankcase. I'm hoping that will eliminate any tendency to collapse the collection container. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump for oil sucker
The container collapse is your visual cue that all is well in the vacuum world. I have mine finely calibrated so I know precisely how much vac it is pulling. --R Mitch Haley wrote: Wilton Strickland wrote: If the oil sucker pump pulls too much vacuum, reduce it with an additional opening in the vac hose - not the oil evac tube - the vac hose from pump/vac to the oil receiver tank. I've decided to build mine with a scrap of standard 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD copper house plumbing pipe, and use 5/8 hose to the oil collector. I just checked a few minutes ago, and the 1/2 copper is a snug slip fit in both my 190D and my 190e. I assume my 300SD is the same size. More flow capacity in the oil tubing will lead to less pressure differential and quicker evacuation of the crankcase. I'm hoping that will eliminate any tendency to collapse the collection container. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
I use one and have no issues. The only time I have issues is when I apply more than 5psi or so to the ex-helium tank to help push the contents back out. It can create quite the mess VERY quickly... Luther On Thu, 08 May 2008 05:56:59 -0500, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: LarryT wrote: Howdy - Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn 96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556. Those things can pull a pretty good vacuum. Not really good enough for air conditioning work, but stronger than a shop vac I'm sure. The question is whether they pull enough volume to cause trouble. The shop vac pulls way too much volume for an oil sucker, this one probably can't build up excess volume through an open hose hooked up to the engine if you take off the oil fill cap on the engine. -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) '82 300CD (166 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum Pump for Oil Sucker
Howdy - Since my Topsider has a hose problem I thought I'd build one this time and ran across this Air Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight Tools for $8.50 (pn 96677-2AYE) -- the Key on the catalog is AY9556. Seems like it'd be easy to get the hose (5/8 OD - 3/8 ID) and a gas tank - then hook the pump to one connection and run the hose into the other and the dipstick tube. Might make life a little easier -- Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 800-583-8601 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
the line going to the shutoff valve in the IP is not connected somewhere. A few seconds of running will produce enough vacuum for all accessories to work. There used to be a vacuum diagram on the net (petersmidt) but his domain has expired. There should be a vac diagram in your WSM - which should help - Good luck - Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs - Original Message - From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 11:03 PM Subject: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time? Changing oil tonight I managed to snap off one of the plastic tees near the filter housing cover. Trying to pull the lines of the other two branches I managed to snap another tee. Ran to AutoZone in another vehicle and got some new tees and vacuum hose. Replaced the broken tees and the related small lengths of hose. Started the car, and it won't shut off. I'm certain I didn't cross any connections, and don't see any other broken tees, but wondered if it takes a few minutes of running for the system to be evacuated of air after sitting open. I'm going to take a little drive here in a while and find out... Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
Also, check for some small restrictions in the lines -- some of the fittings on the main line have very small holes. Otherwise, you have more air getting into the main line that you should. You may also have broken the check valve -- the one on my new 300D was taped up when I got it, leaked like crazy. Not available separately, but not expensive to replace the main line, either, and it will be correct. Watch for cracks and breaks in the hard plastic lines, too -- they become quite brittle when exposed to oil vapor and heat. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
Yeah, no shutoff after a drive around either. Unfortunately I don't have a WSM for this car. What color is the line for the shutoff valve? Allan On Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:21:23 -0500, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: the line going to the shutoff valve in the IP is not connected somewhere. A few seconds of running will produce enough vacuum for all accessories to work. There used to be a vacuum diagram on the net (petersmidt) but his domain has expired. There should be a vac diagram in your WSM - which should help - Good luck - ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
Supply line is brown, line to the servo is brown with a blue or purple stripe. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
Are we talking about a 300D? Attached is a .pdf file of the 123 vacume schematic. Someone either posted this last November or I downloaded it from one of the sites. T From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:21:23 -0500 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time? There used to be a vacuum diagram on the net (petersmidt) but his domain has expired. There should be a vac diagram in your WSM - which should help - -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: application/pdf Size: 235816 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20080307/e6001bce/attachment.pdf ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
Changing oil tonight I managed to snap off one of the plastic tees near the filter housing cover. Trying to pull the lines of the other two branches I managed to snap another tee. Ran to AutoZone in another vehicle and got some new tees and vacuum hose. Replaced the broken tees and the related small lengths of hose. Started the car, and it won't shut off. I'm certain I didn't cross any connections, and don't see any other broken tees, but wondered if it takes a few minutes of running for the system to be evacuated of air after sitting open. I'm going to take a little drive here in a while and find out... Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] vacuum pump-down time?
hose. Replaced the broken tees and the related small lengths of hose. Started the car, and it won't shut off. I'm certain I didn't cross any connections, and don't see any other broken tees, but wondered if it takes a few minutes of running for the system to be evacuated of air after sitting open. No, you still have a broken or pulled-loose line. It takes very little time at all to pump down normally. Seconds. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum Pump W124 91 300D 2.5T
Howdy all - Just finished replacing my vacuum pump. With 140k on this one I thought it was time to play it safe. The instructions in the WSM are pretty brief. It's 43-0618 - if you need a copy let me know but it;s so basic as to be useless. Basically it shows a image of the pump and the text says screw out, screw in. The instructions that came with the pump (from Rusty at $300) were better that the WSM. A gasket was also in the box from Rusty. I removed the fan and fan shroud rotated the upper rad hose out of the way. I also released the serp. belt tensioner to reach one of the bolts. Once the fan shroud was out of the way things went pretty fast. I did have to bump the engine to align the cam/ramp in the engine so the low spots were at 12 and 6 o'clock. This allowed the pump device in the pump that rolls on the cam/ramp to be in a relaxed position during installation. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet (10mm socket) to remove/replace the 6 screws. Tightened them in a criss-cross manner to evenly pull down the pump. Using that 1/4 ratchet makes it more difficult IMHO to break the screws - but not impossible. Put about 1 oz of oil into the vacuum fitting before reconnecting the firm vacuum hose going to the brakes. Since I am running M1 Synthetic I hope to get 180-200k out of this pump (oil unknown before 100k) but for now I have a known pump. Have a nice week - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs . ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
Thx Don - really appreciate that --- Have a nice weekend -- Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs . - Original Message - From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 10:22 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T I can't find the vacuum pump torque specs, but did find that for the timing cover to crankcase, the M6 bolts are 10NM (7.4 Lb-ft.) and the M8 bolts are 25NM (18.4 Lb-ft). I seem to remember similar values elsewhere, in the my past reading. Also - do you happen to know the torque value? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics. -Benjamin Disraeli '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1036 - Release Date: 9/28/2007 3:40 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
LarryT wrote: I am going to replace my VP now rather than wait for it to fail since I'm not sure what kind of oil was used (I doubt it was full synthetic) and then start the clock running again - I checked the manual but did not see the section on replacing the VP. There were instructions with the pump (From Rusty) but I was hoping the WSM would tell me a little something. Looks like I remove the old one, rotate the engine until the slope cam is backed away from the front of the engine before replacing the new pump. It says to pour oil into the vacuum port also - Hmmm.maybe I have a syringe I can push into the hose - Anyway - any guidance to the WSM info or VP replacement would be helpful - You have described the process nicely - better than the Mercedes description as I recall. You need the non-dam gasket for your '91 engine. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
On 9/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyway - any guidance to the WSM info or VP replacement would be helpful - I can advise you from experience to try not to overtighten the mounting bolts and shear off their heads. It's hard to get a drill with an Easy-Out on it in the front with the radiator in the way. :( Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
Damn - that sounds like a real PITA! Anyone know the torque value for the nuts? Still haven't found the WSM section - Thx - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs . - Original Message - From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 6:12 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T On 9/28/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyway - any guidance to the WSM info or VP replacement would be helpful - I can advise you from experience to try not to overtighten the mounting bolts and shear off their heads. It's hard to get a drill with an Easy-Out on it in the front with the radiator in the way. :( Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
Thx Marshall - I rec'd a gasket with the pump (but not in the same box as the pump) from Rusty - How do I know if it is the right gasket? Also - do you happen to know the torque value? Thx agn - Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs . - Original Message - From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:33 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T LarryT wrote: I am going to replace my VP now rather than wait for it to fail since I'm not sure what kind of oil was used (I doubt it was full synthetic) and then start the clock running again - I checked the manual but did not see the section on replacing the VP. There were instructions with the pump (From Rusty) but I was hoping the WSM would tell me a little something. Looks like I remove the old one, rotate the engine until the slope cam is backed away from the front of the engine before replacing the new pump. It says to pour oil into the vacuum port also - Hmmm.maybe I have a syringe I can push into the hose - Anyway - any guidance to the WSM info or VP replacement would be helpful - You have described the process nicely - better than the Mercedes description as I recall. You need the non-dam gasket for your '91 engine. Marshall -- Marshall Booth Ph.D. Ass't Prof. (ret.) Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007 5:00 PM ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum Pump replacement - M602-962 91 300D 2.5T
I can't find the vacuum pump torque specs, but did find that for the timing cover to crankcase, the M6 bolts are 10NM (7.4 Lb-ft.) and the M8 bolts are 25NM (18.4 Lb-ft). I seem to remember similar values elsewhere, in the my past reading. Also - do you happen to know the torque value? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics. -Benjamin Disraeli '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum Pump dilemma
My 300D vacuum pump rocker arm roller is badly pitted ( single pipe vaccum pump ) and am wondering whether to buy a rocker repair kit or the complete pump. Is it likely that the pistons will also fail soon? I'm not sure what milage this engine has done and was wondering how long the rockers arm rollers typically last befor ethey fail? PEter
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump
Put a vac meter on it, see what it says. I think a good pull is like 13-17 if I recall from when I did mine. If it is down to a few inches, then that is too low. --R Curt Raymond wrote: Hey folks, How do I know if the vacuum pump on my '85 190D is going out? Its slow to develop vacuum at low speed, when I back out of my driveway in the morning I've got no power brakes. By the end of my street like 50 yards away everything is fine. I replaced a short bit of line from the pump up to IIRC a tee not long ago which made the car shut off better but this is a new behavior. It looks like the vacuum pump is easy to replace, maybe have to pull the belt but no other major parts. Anybody BTDT? -Curt - How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump
How do I know if the vacuum pump on my '85 190D is going out? Its slow to develop vacuum at low speed, when I back out of my driveway in the morning I've got no power brakes. By the end of my street like 50 yards away everything is fine. There is a procedure in the manual for testing it, involving emptying the brake booster and monitoring how long it takes (at idle) to pump back to X Bar. This assumes no leaks. The vacuum pump is not all that hard to replace on these things, usually. -- Jim
[MBZ] Vacuum pump
Hey folks, How do I know if the vacuum pump on my '85 190D is going out? Its slow to develop vacuum at low speed, when I back out of my driveway in the morning I've got no power brakes. By the end of my street like 50 yards away everything is fine. I replaced a short bit of line from the pump up to IIRC a tee not long ago which made the car shut off better but this is a new behavior. It looks like the vacuum pump is easy to replace, maybe have to pull the belt but no other major parts. Anybody BTDT? -Curt - How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed Oct 04 20:40:47 2006 Received: from web32812.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.42]) by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GVDXq-0007Ye-P5 for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Wed, 04 Oct 2006 20:40:47 + Received: (qmail 63180 invoked by uid 60001); 4 Oct 2006 20:40:44 - Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Received: from [198.51.119.130] by web32812.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP; Wed, 04 Oct 2006 13:40:44 PDT Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 13:40:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: [MBZ] injector line clips X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 20:40:47 - After I replaced the bad injector line last night I noticed there are very few plastic clips anywhere on the lines. Rusty's site says I should have 5 lines total, I also have a plastic bumper that doesn't seem to show up on Rusty's list. Anybody BTDT on a 601? Theres a thread on the Bimby board about it but I can't recall my login and password over there and it takes awhile for it to reset them. -Curt - All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed Oct 04 20:46:49 2006 Received: from imo-d04.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.36]) by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1GVDdg-0007qP-LK for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Wed, 04 Oct 2006 20:46:48 + Received: from [EMAIL PROTECTED] by imo-d04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.6.) id s.4fb.61f3559 (41809) for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Wed, 4 Oct 2006 16:46:36 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 16:46:36 EDT To: mercedes@okiebenz.com MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Thunderbird - Mac OS X sub 308 X-Spam-Flag: NO X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp1 Subject: Re: [MBZ] red light cameras X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp1 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: /pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2006 20:46:49 - Maybe.=A0 In some (most?) jurisdictions the video or picture has to be reviewed by a police officer before a ticket is issued.=A0 Since the picture is generally framed to show both the car and the traffic light this is pretty straightforward.=A0 If the car is in the middle of the intersection and the light is red, there's not much room to say you're falsely accused.. I think you need to read the Car Driver article about this of about two=20 issues back. The cameras are owned and installed by (after an ordinance is=20 created and a permit is issued) a private firm which collects the fees and s= hares=20 them with the municipality. The PD is not involved and that's why no points=20= are=20 assigned to the driver's license. That's how it's going to work in Kent, WA=20 south of Seattle, BTW. How this plays out in traffic court when the accused pleads not guilty is=20 unknown to me.
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
Don, do a Google search for Ford Explorer instrument cluster bulbs burnt out, or something like that and bet it will lwead you to an Useres List. Did that years ago when I had a Bronco II. John Freer On 7/27/06, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok Don wrote: Since Marshal answered all your questions except the last one, I'll take it SELL the FORD !! Believe me, I have tried to get my wife to sell her Explorer. She loves it. This is the first Ford I have ever had. I will say this for it, we have not had any trouble at all since we bought it three years ago. We bought it will 74XXX miles. Now it has 102,000 miles. I thought I would hate it and we would have lots of problems (knock wood). It has been a fine car. If the only problem we have is the instrument cluster bulbs going out, I keep it. I don't ever have to drive it, unless it is a time when we need an SUV to haul something. In those situations I am glad we have it. Otherwise, my wife drives it and all I have to do is bring it to the Ford Dealer for my free oil changes. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 129 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
There has been lots of talk about vacuum pumps on here lately. I am finally concerned. I have had 6 Mercedes in my driving career and I have never replaced a vacuum pump and have never had one blow up on me. Perhaps I am lucky or stupid. One question I have is do the gas versions have vacuum pumps? I know that a gas engine does develop vacuum whereas a diesel will not generate very much. But, does Mercedes put vacuum pumps on gas cars because so many things run off of vacuum on these cars? I am sure I will reveal my ignorance, but here are the other questions I have: Does my car (1990 300SEL 129K) have a vacuum pump? If so, do I need to consider replacing it according to the Dr. Booth advice every 150-200K miles? If gasser Mercedes do have vacuum pumps, do they last longer than the ones on diesels? Does anyone know how to change the light bulbs in the instrument cluster on a Ford Explorer? (At night only about half of the gauges are illuminated and the odometer is dark from 60-80. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 129K
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
Donald Snook wrote: There has been lots of talk about vacuum pumps on here lately. I am finally concerned. I have had 6 Mercedes in my driving career and I have never replaced a vacuum pump and have never had one blow up on me. Perhaps I am lucky or stupid. One question I have is do the gas versions have vacuum pumps? I know that a gas engine does develop vacuum whereas a diesel will not generate very much. But, does Mercedes put vacuum pumps on gas cars because so many things run off of vacuum on these cars? Diesels and a few older gasoline models (from the '70s) had vacuum pumps. I am sure I will reveal my ignorance, but here are the other questions I have: Does my car (1990 300SEL 129K) have a vacuum pump? NO If so, do I need to consider replacing it according to the Dr. Booth advice every 150-200K miles? If gasser Mercedes do have vacuum pumps, do they last longer than the ones on diesels? The older vacuum pumps (7.20209, 7.20547 and older pumps) used on OM61x diesel engines (last manufactured in 1985) were rebuildable. Many lasted the life of the engine. When they fail they seldom damaging the engine or timer. The newer pumps (7.20607) used on OM60x engines (starting in 1984) were NOT rebuildable - had to be replaced if/when they failed. The older pumps seldom drop parts into the engine. The newer pumps can drop parts into the chain vault when they fail and that CAN destroy the engine immediately or later. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
Hi Don, Nope, gas engines create all the vacuum they need. Only diesels need pumps to provide vacuum. BTW, only the '85 and newer (as far as I know) have vac pumps with the possibility of failing and having *bits of metal* get into the engine where damage can occur. The '85 and older - I'm referring to W123 mostly - have belt driven pumps - and while they can fail and allow oil to get to places where it doesn't belong, they are not designed so damaged vac pump metal can get into the engine. BTW, diesels *do* produce vacuum but it's so very little it's not enough to make much use of. HTH's Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ . - Original Message - From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 7:30 PM Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump There has been lots of talk about vacuum pumps on here lately. I am finally concerned. I have had 6 Mercedes in my driving career and I have never replaced a vacuum pump and have never had one blow up on me. Perhaps I am lucky or stupid. One question I have is do the gas versions have vacuum pumps? I know that a gas engine does develop vacuum whereas a diesel will not generate very much. But, does Mercedes put vacuum pumps on gas cars because so many things run off of vacuum on these cars? I am sure I will reveal my ignorance, but here are the other questions I have: Does my car (1990 300SEL 129K) have a vacuum pump? If so, do I need to consider replacing it according to the Dr. Booth advice every 150-200K miles? If gasser Mercedes do have vacuum pumps, do they last longer than the ones on diesels? Does anyone know how to change the light bulbs in the instrument cluster on a Ford Explorer? (At night only about half of the gauges are illuminated and the odometer is dark from 60-80. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 129K ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.4/399 - Release Date: 7/25/2006
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
Since Marshal answered all your questions except the last one, I'll take it SELL the FORD !! -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump Vacuum Schump
Ok Don wrote: Since Marshal answered all your questions except the last one, I'll take it SELL the FORD !! Believe me, I have tried to get my wife to sell her Explorer. She loves it. This is the first Ford I have ever had. I will say this for it, we have not had any trouble at all since we bought it three years ago. We bought it will 74XXX miles. Now it has 102,000 miles. I thought I would hate it and we would have lots of problems (knock wood). It has been a fine car. If the only problem we have is the instrument cluster bulbs going out, I keep it. I don't ever have to drive it, unless it is a time when we need an SUV to haul something. In those situations I am glad we have it. Otherwise, my wife drives it and all I have to do is bring it to the Ford Dealer for my free oil changes. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 129
[MBZ] Vacuum pump questions
Thanks to all for the information re: my car and vacuum pumps. I will sleep better knowing I don't have a pump on my car that could destroy the engine. Now, somebody tell me how to double my fuel mileage. My old 124 diesel (now OK Don's) got 34 mpg. This beast of a car gets 20-21. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 129K
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump questions
Check ebay - they sell all kinds of fuel mileage enhancement devices. Magnets, turbines for your intake, secret devices, etc. :) Dave W Now, somebody tell me how to double my fuel mileage. My old 124 diesel (now OK Don's) got 34 mpg. This beast of a car gets 20-21.
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump questions
Donald Snook wrote: Now, somebody tell me how to double my fuel mileage. My old 124 diesel (now OK Don's) got 34 mpg. This beast of a car gets 20-21. It's numbers like that that induced me to buy a diesel in 1968. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
I just finished buying car from Stefan Schultze. 1982 300TD Wagon. The car was definitely not maintained very well. He apparently is buying them and reselling on Ebay. The belts were almost nonexistent and we were lucky to make it home to Michigan without a failure. There was also a leak in the Transmission line he did not make us aware of. I noticed it when we got home and the fluid level was barely touching the stick. I added almost 2 quarts before repairing the line. Mike -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:56 AM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Maybe he didnt know the head was cracked. Brian Smyla wrote: Thanks, Tom. Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probably need another $2k to get it 'perfect', including paint. Yes, I believe the car is worth it, since I'll probably drive it much longer than something I'd buy for $30 - 40K at a dealership. You're right about the 'caveat emptor' clause, but my complaint is more along the lines of dishonesty within the classic Benz owners' community. Brian Smyla -Original Message- From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 10:57 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Brian, This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done your homework on the car before purchasing it. I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it. My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is depreciating and I won't complain. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Yes, you're correct. I fully expected there to be a few problems he wasn't aware of, but surely didn't expect a cracked head! Caveat emptor. At least I have a diesel to drive now! Anyone got some old style seat heater switches I can buy, the ones that came with the car are toast? -brian -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:31 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Was it using coolant right away? If so he probably knew. If not and it took a while before it started using it, then he might not have known or it wasnt cracked at the time you bought it. No telling. But, with any used car, its as is of course. Brian Smyla wrote: Well, my feelings are that he knew, but I'm not here to throw stones at him. Just needed to vent. -brian -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
your car has heated seats? That is rare. Brian Smyla wrote: Yes, you're correct. I fully expected there to be a few problems he wasn't aware of, but surely didn't expect a cracked head! Caveat emptor. At least I have a diesel to drive now! Anyone got some old style seat heater switches I can buy, the ones that came with the car are toast? -brian -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:31 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Was it using coolant right away? If so he probably knew. If not and it took a while before it started using it, then he might not have known or it wasnt cracked at the time you bought it. No telling. But, with any used car, its as is of course. Brian Smyla wrote: Well, my feelings are that he knew, but I'm not here to throw stones at him. Just needed to vent. -brian -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Yes, it has heated seats, plus the air adjustable(?) option as well. Unfortunately, the control head for the driver seat is missing, and I haven't been able to locate any information about the adjustment system to find out why it's not working. Anyone have any info about this? Thanks! -brian -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:33 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant your car has heated seats? That is rare. Brian Smyla wrote: Yes, you're correct. I fully expected there to be a few problems he wasn't aware of, but surely didn't expect a cracked head! Caveat emptor. At least I have a diesel to drive now! Anyone got some old style seat heater switches I can buy, the ones that came with the car are toast? -brian -Original Message- From: Kaleb C. Striplin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:31 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Was it using coolant right away? If so he probably knew. If not and it took a while before it started using it, then he might not have known or it wasnt cracked at the time you bought it. No telling. But, with any used car, its as is of course. Brian Smyla wrote: Well, my feelings are that he knew, but I'm not here to throw stones at him. Just needed to vent. -brian -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
haven't been able to locate any information about the adjustment system to find out why it's not working. Anyone have any info about this? My 126 ETM has schematics in it for the orthopedic seat option, IIRC. Not much to it, just a switch to kick on the pump, and I think leak valves to let excess out. -- Jim
[MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges. Flew to Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been intermittently working. Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked head. All 6 cylinders. Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a $1k concession. I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that. Thanks for letting me vent. Brian Smyla
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Brian, This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done your homework on the car before purchasing it. I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it. My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is depreciating and I won't complain. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges. Flew to Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been intermittently working. Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked head. All 6 cylinders. Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a $1k concession. I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that. Thanks for letting me vent. Brian Smyla ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Hi Brian, I missed the type of car here, but I gather it's a W124 or W126 with an OM603 engine. I've tinkered with those a little myself, and have a couple of comments. First, you need to test vacuum directly at the port on the pump - disconnect the hose that goes to the 4-way branch fitting. If there's zero vacuum from the pump, the pump is bad (or the port is blocked somehow). The pump isn't cheap, either. If the pump does NOT have 4 Torx-head screws in the front cover, it should be replaced on principle even if it is working OK. Anyway, if there is a leak on any of the vacuum 'consumers', that can cause all the other vacuum operated items to not function. That would be the emissions junk (which can be disabled), the tranny (which will shift harshly with no vacuum), and the climate control vent flaps. The large port on the vac pump feeds both the power brake booster *and* the engine shutoff. If the engine won't shut off, it could be the diaphragm on the injection pump, a leak in the brake booster pipe, or (once again) a bad vacuum pump. It sounds like you have verified that the pump is bad, but first I'd want to disconnect both ports, plug the large one, and measure at the small one. A big leak on the main port could possibly cause no vacuum present at the small port. (?) Don't mess around with that idler pulley - the serpentine belt system is not something to screw with, it can cause the timing cover to fracture (read to fix). If the belt isn't perfectly parallel at the tensioner/idler pulleys, REPLACE the idler lever. The idler puley only needs replacement if the bearing is bad. Only use an OE (Genuine Mercedes) belt shock - the eyelet bushings are different than the OEM (aftermarket) shocks. I'm sorry you had a bad experience with that shop. I remember Stefan's name from the previous (MBZ.org) list, I had forgotten he sold the car. Wasn't that a 350SDL...? Best regards, -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline) -- Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:37:38 -0500 From: Brian Smyla [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges. Flew to Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been intermittently working. Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked head. All 6 cylinders. Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a $1k concession. I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that. Thanks for letting me vent. Brian Smyla
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Stefan? Is he on this list? Tom Hargrave wrote: Brian, This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done your homework on the car before purchasing it. I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it. My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is depreciating and I won't complain. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges. Flew to Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been intermittently working. Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked head. All 6 cylinders. Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a $1k concession. I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that. Thanks for letting me vent. Brian Smyla ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Stefan? Is he on this list? I don't think so. He was on Diesel, then took a temporary assignment in Mexico. He was looking at 350SDLs and gassers, don't remember if he bought one.
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Thanks, Tom. Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probably need another $2k to get it 'perfect', including paint. Yes, I believe the car is worth it, since I'll probably drive it much longer than something I'd buy for $30 - 40K at a dealership. You're right about the 'caveat emptor' clause, but my complaint is more along the lines of dishonesty within the classic Benz owners' community. Brian Smyla -Original Message- From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 10:57 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Brian, This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done your homework on the car before purchasing it. I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it. My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is depreciating and I won't complain. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges. Flew to Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been intermittently working. Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked head. All 6 cylinders. Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a $1k concession. I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that. Thanks for letting me vent. Brian Smyla ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Hi, Dave. Thanks for the good information, I'll follow up on some of that today. The car is an '86 300SDL. I believe a crash destroyed his 350 about 6 months after I bought the 300, and he spent some time in the hospital as a result, according to his posts to the list. -Brian Smyla -Original Message- From: Dave M. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 12:03 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Hi Brian, I missed the type of car here, but I gather it's a W124 or W126 with an OM603 engine. I've tinkered with those a little myself, and have a couple of comments. First, you need to test vacuum directly at the port on the pump - disconnect the hose that goes to the 4-way branch fitting. If there's zero vacuum from the pump, the pump is bad (or the port is blocked somehow). The pump isn't cheap, either. If the pump does NOT have 4 Torx-head screws in the front cover, it should be replaced on principle even if it is working OK. Anyway, if there is a leak on any of the vacuum 'consumers', that can cause all the other vacuum operated items to not function. That would be the emissions junk (which can be disabled), the tranny (which will shift harshly with no vacuum), and the climate control vent flaps. The large port on the vac pump feeds both the power brake booster *and* the engine shutoff. If the engine won't shut off, it could be the diaphragm on the injection pump, a leak in the brake booster pipe, or (once again) a bad vacuum pump. It sounds like you have verified that the pump is bad, but first I'd want to disconnect both ports, plug the large one, and measure at the small one. A big leak on the main port could possibly cause no vacuum present at the small port. (?) Don't mess around with that idler pulley - the serpentine belt system is not something to screw with, it can cause the timing cover to fracture (read to fix). If the belt isn't perfectly parallel at the tensioner/idler pulleys, REPLACE the idler lever. The idler puley only needs replacement if the bearing is bad. Only use an OE (Genuine Mercedes) belt shock - the eyelet bushings are different than the OEM (aftermarket) shocks. I'm sorry you had a bad experience with that shop. I remember Stefan's name from the previous (MBZ.org) list, I had forgotten he sold the car. Wasn't that a 350SDL...? Best regards, -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline) -- Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 22:37:38 -0500 From: Brian Smyla [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing
Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant
Maybe he didnt know the head was cracked. Brian Smyla wrote: Thanks, Tom. Well, I've got about $7K in the car right now, probably need another $2k to get it 'perfect', including paint. Yes, I believe the car is worth it, since I'll probably drive it much longer than something I'd buy for $30 - 40K at a dealership. You're right about the 'caveat emptor' clause, but my complaint is more along the lines of dishonesty within the classic Benz owners' community. Brian Smyla -Original Message- From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 10:57 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Brian, This all falls under the let the buyer beware clause. You should have done your homework on the car before purchasing it. I've owned 15 old Mercedes to date and I've put serious money into every good deal that I have bough to date. These days, I just figure that I'll have to put $2,000 into anything I buy. And that's after I check out the car and decide that it's in good shape. But you need to understand that I'll purchase an older Mercedes then I'll put 50,000 + miles a year on it. My latest Mercedes, a 1987 300SDL, cost me $1600.00 the first month I owned it. About this time last year, the transmission cost me $1760.00 but at least it got me home. I'm nursing a cracked head or bad head gasket and have been doing so for over 50,000 miles. Even with all of these costs, it's still cheaper than the rate that my Wife's new Grand Cherokee is depreciating and I won't complain. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Smyla Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 9:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant Thanks to all those that replied to my question about the vacuum pump port. I had the engine replaced with a used one, and the shop that did the work warranted the engine for 30 days. The day after I picked the car up, the engine wouldn't stop. I took it back to have the problem resolved, and was told the problem was in the vacuum transducers near the turbo. I took the car back, then discovered that there wasn't any vacuum on the small port on the pump. Also, the climate control had air coming from the defrost ports only, and the shifting was very hard, as was mentioned in some of your replies. I had a very bad experience with this engine replacement. The shop owner claims to have many years experience working on MBZ products, but when I picked the car up, the heat didn't work (mechanic said it was a problem with my climate control), the starter engaged intermittently, the idler pulley was chafing the back side of the belt, a turbo support bracket was missing, and various bolts were missing here and there. I spent three hours checking the climate control, only to finally figure out that the mechanic had left a plug in the return water pipe where it connects to the heater hose that comes off the monovalve. I returned the car for repair of the other problems. They fixed the starter issue, installed the turbo bracket ( after arguing with me on the phone for 5 minutes that the bracket didn't exist ), told me the idler pulley wasn't part of what was warranted ( the idler pulley was from the replacement engine, and I told him that since it wasn't under warranty, I wanted my old one back ), and said the shutoff problem was in the emission control transducers, which I know is BS, because there's no vacuum on the port to start with. If anyone's interested, the shop is Chaney's Auto Service in Ringgold, VA. I'm not going back. Oh, and he charged me $2000 for the replacement engine, labor to remove the replacement engine from the donor vehicle, promised me a 10% cash discount from the original quoted price, then added enough miscellaneous parts (motor mounts, used starter, hoses, etc..) to make up the difference. Go figure. And no, it's not worth going to court over. And to make matters worse, I bought the car from Stefan Schultze, who assured me that the only thing wrong with it was bad hood hinges. Flew to Indiana to pick it up, where he told me that the heater had been intermittently working. Drove it back, then discovered it had a cracked head. All 6 cylinders. Refused to reply to follow up emails asking for a $1k concession. I know, my fault, caveat emptor and all that. Thanks for letting me vent. Brian Smyla ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery
