Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
CINC would be Commander IN Chief. COMHOMELANT would be Commander, Atlantic Home. I can't quite figure out Curly's abbreviations... Max Dillon, Charleston SC On Nov 12, 2014 9:26 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: AF designation would be CINCHOME. 'Hope all are well. ;) Civvy interpretation would be Complainer In Chief, Home? -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Commander, mid america How did the COMMIDAM orders fly with COMHOMELANT? CINC would be Commander IN Chief. COMHOMELANT would be Commander, Atlantic Home. I can't quite figure out Curly's abbreviations... Max Dillon, Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Ah, got it. COMHOMELANT only recognizes one higher authority, and it isn't COMMIDAM! Max Dillon, Charleston SC On Nov 13, 2014 12:51 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Commander, mid america How did the COMMIDAM orders fly with COMHOMELANT? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
I have recently put down 3 floors. One prefinished brazilian cherry, one prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry. These are all solid wood. The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice. The hickory is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and temperature. The unfinished is nice too, gotta get it sanded and finished soon. The finished stuff goes down fast and is done when it's down. I don't really like the engineered stuff for reasons I cannot fully articulate. Maybe the nailed-down stuff would be better than the floating. I have the air nailer if you need to borrow it. I ordered my flooring on-line, got good prices. The local outlets were 2-3X higher for the same stuff. --R On 11/12/14 8:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Opinion: Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of replacing the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years if kept dry and cared for. I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it was cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said.. I'm solid wood and I look it. At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test. My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet with new solid wood. On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. -- - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Thanks Rich. Tell me more about ordering wood on-line. Website? -Max On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 9:18 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I have recently put down 3 floors. One prefinished brazilian cherry, one prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry. These are all solid wood. The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice. The hickory is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and temperature. The unfinished is nice too, gotta get it sanded and finished soon. The finished stuff goes down fast and is done when it's down. I don't really like the engineered stuff for reasons I cannot fully articulate. Maybe the nailed-down stuff would be better than the floating. I have the air nailer if you need to borrow it. I ordered my flooring on-line, got good prices. The local outlets were 2-3X higher for the same stuff. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
I agree. Engineered is garbage. It will always have a cheap look to it. The pre finished is nice but it has a subtle bevel and a finish which is too perfect. These both detract in my opinion. The best is solid wood sanded then finished. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 12, 2014, at 9:21 AM, G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Opinion: Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of replacing the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years if kept dry and cared for. I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it was cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said.. I'm solid wood and I look it. At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test. My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet with new solid wood. On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. -- - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Why not buy or make your own oak flooring to match what is there? The prefinished stuff is nowhere near as nice as the old oak (or maple) flooring. Maybe you can find a school that is taking up their maple flooring and get then for the hauling if you want to go cheap. I got some oak flooring out of house that was being torn down. I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house. 3 big red oak logs. Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few years, then planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw. (anyone remember them? They used to be quite popular) The prefinsihed stuff expands after installation, so if you don't want the floor to buckle, you have to leave plenty space for expansion. I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
I have done real TG oak and maple in about six different houses. This would be solid wood, 3/4 thick, tongue and groove flooring, unfinished. I'm not familiar with a prefinished 3/4 wood product. I have done engineered flooring, specifically Pergo, in a couple of houses. My personal preference is for the real thing. While properly installed engineered flooring should have no problems with the loads you describe, I would again lean towards real wood flooring. Dan Sent from my iPad On Nov 12, 2014, at 8:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. -- - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Hurst Hardwoods for the pre-finished and I think the unfinished, build.com for the hickory (although they have other stuff too). I actually can't remember on all of it, would have to pull my receipts and check. Hurst (not Jabba) is in Tampa and were very good and good prices. I can dig up the sales guy's name if you want. Build.com has been the source for a lot of my stuff and a great seller -- very good prices, excellent service, and I have my own sales cutie (Brittany) if you want to check on stuff (and I usually beat on them for another 5% discount on their already good prices). http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=SOLPFBC5cat=1516 http://www.build.com/mohawk-industries-wsc36-10/s754252?uid=1890353 http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=4CLRJAT If you go with oak you might as well just hit Lowes or HD for that stuff, or maybe Lumber Liquidators. See what their prices are. That stuff is mostly commodity so prices are fairly cheap. There is a distributor in NChuck I was going to get my stuff from but they changed their sales and wouldn't sell to me after saying they would, but it turns out Hurst was cheaper anyway, even with some shipping (and no Nimrata tax). --R On 11/12/14 9:23 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Thanks Rich. Tell me more about ordering wood on-line. Website? -Max On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 9:18 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I have recently put down 3 floors. One prefinished brazilian cherry, one prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry. These are all solid wood. The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice. The hickory is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and temperature. The unfinished is nice too, gotta get it sanded and finished soon. The finished stuff goes down fast and is done when it's down. I don't really like the engineered stuff for reasons I cannot fully articulate. Maybe the nailed-down stuff would be better than the floating. I have the air nailer if you need to borrow it. I ordered my flooring on-line, got good prices. The local outlets were 2-3X higher for the same stuff. --R ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
I particularly hate the 'snare drum' sound of the floating wood-like floors. That said, we've got one of those in the kitchen, and are about to do the same to the boy's room. (Pet bird, carpets. You do the math!) The thing is, in 20 years (?) when these look like crap they'll be easy to take up and redo. It's like carpet in that sense. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
I was concerned about the prefinished stuff too but after researching it I determined that the factory finish is much harder and durable than what can be put down after a floor is sanded. The finishes are warranteed, for whatever that is worth. The prefinished hickory I put down has a small bevel on the edges of the pieces which deals with any minor thickness differences (that would be sanded down on unfinished) and so gives some small grooves between boards. Not too noticeable but it is there. The prefinished jatoba I put down has smaller edge bevels and is much smoother. I like it better. Prefinished solid can be sanded when necessary so that aspect is the same. On the engineered stuff you gotta be really careful as the actual wood is not very thick. The prefinished is standard TG so no different from regular flooring material. Goes down just the same then it is done so cost and timewise I think it is a better deal. I am actually going to check out a floor sander to rent today, and have sorta decided on a finish http://www.bona.com/en-US/United-States1/BonaSystem/Coatings/Finishes/BonaTraffic/ for the jatoba in the kitchen. Waterborne so not a big stink, and has a lot of solids (aluminum oxide I think) for durability. Looks easy enough to put down, basically pour some down then smear it around with a pad and it levels itself fairly well. Sealer goes down first. The jatoba is very hard so sanding tends to be a chore, but Lowes rents a sander with 3 random orbit pads, much better than the old drums I have used and hated in the past. --R On 11/12/14 9:42 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote: I have done real TG oak and maple in about six different houses. This would be solid wood, 3/4 thick, tongue and groove flooring, unfinished. I'm not familiar with a prefinished 3/4 wood product. I have done engineered flooring, specifically Pergo, in a couple of houses. My personal preference is for the real thing. While properly installed engineered flooring should have no problems with the loads you describe, I would again lean towards real wood flooring. Dan ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
'Still have my radial arm saw I bought in The Soo 42 years ago. Also, still using the kitchen cabinets it helped me to build, incl. moldings, drawers, doors, etc., 26 years ago. 'Filed/shaped the blades for milling the moldings to match that existing on doors throughout the house. Wilton - Original Message - From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Why not buy or make your own oak flooring to match what is there? The prefinished stuff is nowhere near as nice as the old oak (or maple) flooring. Maybe you can find a school that is taking up their maple flooring and get then for the hauling if you want to go cheap. I got some oak flooring out of house that was being torn down. I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house. 3 big red oak logs. Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few years, then planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw. (anyone remember them? They used to be quite popular) The prefinsihed stuff expands after installation, so if you don't want the floor to buckle, you have to leave plenty space for expansion. I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
'Zackly. BTW, 'sold my last rental 'bout 3 months ago after 35 years as a landlord. 'Been feelin' a lot better for 3 months, too. (Had only 28 rentals for several years.) 'Same tenant in last one for 34 years. 'Decided years ago, though, maybe I'm too nice a guy to be a landlord - for example, don't like having to take a tenant to court to get 'im to do what he agreed to do in the lease; and on and on. 'Just got tired of the hassle of having to babysit irresponsible adults. Wilton - Original Message - From: G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Opinion: Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of replacing the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years if kept dry and cared for. I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it was cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said.. I'm solid wood and I look it. At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test. My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet with new solid wood. On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. -- - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Since we're on the subject of floors, part of my home is floored with Brazilian Redwood, which is intersting because no two planks are alike so it has a quite distincitive look. The rest of the floors are either faux oak or real oak. Anyone have any experience with proper care for the Brazilian stuff, or a good place to buy more? On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 10:49 AM, WILTON via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: 'Zackly. BTW, 'sold my last rental 'bout 3 months ago after 35 years as a landlord. 'Been feelin' a lot better for 3 months, too. (Had only 28 rentals for several years.) 'Same tenant in last one for 34 years. 'Decided years ago, though, maybe I'm too nice a guy to be a landlord - for example, don't like having to take a tenant to court to get 'im to do what he agreed to do in the lease; and on and on. 'Just got tired of the hassle of having to babysit irresponsible adults. Wilton - Original Message - From: G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Opinion: Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of replacing the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years if kept dry and cared for. I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it was cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said.. I'm solid wood and I look it. At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test. My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet with new solid wood. On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. -- - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
I thihnk that is jatoba or brazilian cherry, which is what I put down. Very hard. Mine does not have a lot of variability but some. I think what you have is a lower grade than what I got. Do a google but this is where I got mine, both prefinished and unfinished. They ahve a variety of grades and sizes fin/unfin Look at their site. http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=SOLPFBC5cat=1516 http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=4CLRJAT Proper care is usually just a dry mop or I think you can use some type of swiffer, you don't want it really wet. --R On 11/12/14 11:54 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote: Since we're on the subject of floors, part of my home is floored with Brazilian Redwood, which is intersting because no two planks are alike so it has a quite distincitive look. The rest of the floors are either faux oak or real oak. Anyone have any experience with proper care for the Brazilian stuff, or a good place to buy more? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Thanks to all for the input, and Rich thanks for the offer of the nail gun - I will probably take you up on that. Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple, hickory, birch, or ash. Oak is not preferred, she likes something with less grain and very light in color. We passed on a lot of pre-finished solid oak flooring that was less than $4 per square foot (SF), and we are strongly leaning toward a maple floor at $5 per SF. Also, I do not want the mess and smell of sanding and finishing. Nail it down and be done, that sounds the way to go to me. It is a shame to take up a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types of flooring - tile and wood - our home has an open floor plan). - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 08:38:54 -0600 Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house. 3 big red oak logs. Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few years, then planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw. (anyone remember them? They used to be quite popular) I still have and use the DeWalt commercial radial arm saw I purchased used 32 years ago (not quite up to Wilton's 42 years, but ... ). I even have the molding head I bought from Sears and the guard I bought at a garage sale. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Paint hides a multitude of sins. Maybe you can put a coat on the stair parts, The choice of wood engineered floor presents a host of questions. Cheap end floor or the more expensive stuff. Some of the really high end laminate is of the same durability of solid wood. Solid wood does require more extensive install process and post install finishing. I would say use at least a three coat process for long life. There is also all the upkeep and normal work that the old fashion floors needed. I think a real wood floor is best in a classic home. Snap together floor goes in really fast, does not need the acclimation process or the post install finishing. Some of it can even be sanded and refinished once in about 20 years when it gets beat up. It is a floating floor instead of being secured to the underlayment and has a pad to reduce squeaks and such. It is not as forgiving if it gets soaked. The base will warp and fall apart. clay On Nov 12, 2014, at 4:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote: I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic. Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered? We're trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed that if necessary. Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three pianos, two uprights and one baby grand. No dogs in the house, just humans and cats. We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs. We've got tile in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change. The entryway and connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely. The rest of the downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO. So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the existing oak floor with new wood. We'd really like to have only two different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood). The stairwell is carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting. However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the entryway. I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood flooring. -- - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Original Message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple, hickory, birch, or ash. Oak is not preferred, she likes something with less grain and very light in color. It is a shame to take up a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types of flooring - tile and wood - our home has an open floor plan). My first thoughts on the matter were the same as Grant's. Have the oak refinished, and contract someone to install more oak. However, if THE boss says no, then another tack needs to be taken. First of all, PLEASE Salvage the oak. Have someone or yourself pull it without turning it into toothpicks. My lighter alternative to oak would be bamboo. It has tight grain, is light, and should be inexpensive, compared to hard woods like maple, birch, alder, and ash. Hickory is a bit darker. The link is just for an example, I have not ordered from there. http://www.calibamboo.com/bambooflooring.html Rick Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
Rick, I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is included, not sure if they are free or cost. Yes, I'm planning to take it up carefully with re-use in mind. Bamboo was considered by the Finance Chair, but the Chief Designer (triple hatted as the aforementioned Chair and COMHOMELANT) ultimately ruled against it. The colors and texture are good, but one of the sales guys claimed that it cannot be sanded and re-finished. Max Dillon, Charleston SC On Nov 12, 2014 4:40 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Original Message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple, hickory, birch, or ash. Oak is not preferred, she likes something with less grain and very light in color. It is a shame to take up a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types of flooring - tile and wood - our home has an open floor plan). My first thoughts on the matter were the same as Grant's. Have the oak refinished, and contract someone to install more oak. However, if THE boss says no, then another tack needs to be taken. First of all, PLEASE Salvage the oak. Have someone or yourself pull it without turning it into toothpicks. My lighter alternative to oak would be bamboo. It has tight grain, is light, and should be inexpensive, compared to hard woods like maple, birch, alder, and ash. Hickory is a bit darker. The link is just for an example, I have not ordered from there. http://www.calibamboo.com/bambooflooring.html Rick Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
There is a girl runs the recycle warehouse who does the recovery. I would come help you, won't take that long with a coupla good-sized crowbars. I looked into bamboo for the loft, liked it and so did management, but prices were all over the map. I saw some mixed reviews on durability of the finish. Went with the pre-finished jatoba, which I'm happy with. I'd go with prefinished maple in a wider board, 4 or 5 if you want quick and durable, but unfinished will provide a bit better uniformity with more work. --R On 11/12/14 5:37 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Rick, I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is included, not sure if they are free or cost. Yes, I'm planning to take it up carefully with re-use in mind. Bamboo was considered by the Finance Chair, but the Chief Designer (triple hatted as the aforementioned Chair and COMHOMELANT) ultimately ruled against it. The colors and texture are good, but one of the sales guys claimed that it cannot be sanded and re-finished. Max Dillon, Charleston SC On Nov 12, 2014 4:40 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Original Message From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple, hickory, birch, or ash. Oak is not preferred, she likes something with less grain and very light in color. It is a shame to take up a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types of flooring - tile and wood - our home has an open floor plan). My first thoughts on the matter were the same as Grant's. Have the oak refinished, and contract someone to install more oak. However, if THE boss says no, then another tack needs to be taken. First of all, PLEASE Salvage the oak. Have someone or yourself pull it without turning it into toothpicks. My lighter alternative to oak would be bamboo. It has tight grain, is light, and should be inexpensive, compared to hard woods like maple, birch, alder, and ash. Hickory is a bit darker. The link is just for an example, I have not ordered from there. http://www.calibamboo.com/bambooflooring.html Rick Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 5:02 PM To: Mercedes; Rick Knoble Reply To: Meade Dillon Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered Rick, I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is included, not sure if they are free or cost. Yes, I'm planning to take it up carefully with re-use in mind. That's great. Bamboo was considered by the Finance Chair, but the Chief Designer (triple hatted as the aforementioned Chair and COMHOMELANT) ultimately ruled against it. Too bad. The colors and texture are good, but one of the sales guys claimed that it cannot be sanded and re-finished. If the finish lasts 35-50 years as some warranties suggest, who cares? SWMBO WILL change her mind on the flooring in 30 years. The salesman gets less commission on the bamboo... Rick Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
TO: COMHOMELANT From: COMMIDAM SUBJECT: Deciduous Decking Date: 12 Nov, 2014 18:00 Hrs COMHOMELANT, The current quercus rubra deciduous decking must be handled as follows: 1. thoroughly swab the deck with descending grits of aluminum oxide until all old finish is removed. 2. remove all residue from step one with skivvies saturated with turps. 3. Observe the color of the newly swabbed deck. 4. If the newly swabbed deck is not light enough in color, take fresh skivvies and swab with white paint (as used for painting on the ship's identity numbers) 5. before the paint is dry, enlist ship's crew to take more fresh skivvies and swab the deck until the COMHOMELANT approved color is reached. 6. Give the poor swabbies a break while the paint dries. 7. Swab the deck with Varithane floor polyurethane using lambswool swabs 8. Repeat step 7 per instructions on the Varithane can 9. Give the swabbies grub and grog while the Varithane dries. 10. Report results to COMMIDAM Thanks to all for the input, and Rich thanks for the offer of the nail gun - I will probably take you up on that. Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple, hickory, birch, or ash. Oak is not preferred, she likes something with less grain and very light in color. We passed on a lot of pre-finished solid oak flooring that was less than $4 per square foot (SF), and we are strongly leaning toward a maple floor at $5 per SF. Also, I do not want the mess and smell of sanding and finishing. Nail it down and be done, that sounds the way to go to me. It is a shame to take up a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types of flooring - tile and wood - our home has an open floor plan). - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered
AF designation would be CINCHOME. 'Hope all are well. ;) Civvy interpretation would be Complainer In Chief, Home? -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
