Re: [MBZ] WAS Facts - NEW OT Riveting
Thanks Don. That was useful info. RB On 04/03/2015 4:29 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote: I'm not an A&P, but have played one for most of my life. To clarify what Grant said, the feather trigger lets you modulate the hammering action from a stroke every second to very fast. You start by setting the rivet in place with a few slow strokes, then enough fast strokes to get it to the finished state. The 2X, 3X, 4X, etc. relates to the length of each stroke, hence the "power" to mash ever increasing sizes and hardness's of rivets. IIRC, boats often use larger rivets than I've dealt with in most of my aircraft work, but they were often softer as well. I doubt that you need more than a 3X rivet gun. This is the gun I bought recently, and it works just fine: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetset737.php?clickkey=1985735 It has everything you need except and air compressor and the rivets (which you can find here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets2.php). On Wed, Mar 4, 2015 at 2:46 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote: Airframe and Power plant mechanic so I've driven a few thousand rivets The rivet gun with a "feather trigger" permits you to drive the rivet without over driving it.. The "stun gun" body shop hammer used for cutting metal and such lacks the finer control to drive rivets in aluminum.. I suggest you get some aluminum scraps that are as near the composition to the boats material as you can get and practice driving rivets .. observe what works, and what doesn't.. you also may want to moderate the air pressure to the rivet gun to get the "stroke" you need to upset the rivet properly.. Also important is the bucking bar you use to back the driver.. how you hold it.. it's weight and surface all play into the compression of the rivet to make it fill the hole and grip the pieces being joined.. HTH... Grant... ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] WAS Facts - NEW OT Riveting
I'm not an A&P, but have played one for most of my life. To clarify what Grant said, the feather trigger lets you modulate the hammering action from a stroke every second to very fast. You start by setting the rivet in place with a few slow strokes, then enough fast strokes to get it to the finished state. The 2X, 3X, 4X, etc. relates to the length of each stroke, hence the "power" to mash ever increasing sizes and hardness's of rivets. IIRC, boats often use larger rivets than I've dealt with in most of my aircraft work, but they were often softer as well. I doubt that you need more than a 3X rivet gun. This is the gun I bought recently, and it works just fine: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetset737.php?clickkey=1985735 It has everything you need except and air compressor and the rivets (which you can find here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets2.php). On Wed, Mar 4, 2015 at 2:46 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote: > Airframe and Power plant mechanic so I've driven a few thousand rivets > The rivet gun with a "feather trigger" permits you to drive the rivet > without over driving it.. > > The "stun gun" body shop hammer used for cutting metal and such lacks the > finer control to drive rivets in aluminum.. > > I suggest you get some aluminum scraps that are as near the composition to > the boats material as you can get and practice driving rivets .. observe > what works, and what doesn't.. you also may want to moderate the air > pressure to the rivet gun to get the "stroke" you need to upset the rivet > properly.. > > Also important is the bucking bar you use to back the driver.. how you hold > it.. it's weight and surface all play into the compression of the rivet to > make it fill the hole and grip the pieces being joined.. > > HTH... > > Grant... > > -- OK Don NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens! *“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers* 2013 F150, 18 mpg 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph! ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] WAS Facts - NEW OT Riveting
Airframe and Power plant mechanic so I've driven a few thousand rivets. The rivet gun with a "feather trigger" permits you to drive the rivet without over driving it.. The "stun gun" body shop hammer used for cutting metal and such lacks the finer control to drive rivets in aluminum.. I suggest you get some aluminum scraps that are as near the composition to the boats material as you can get and practice driving rivets .. observe what works, and what doesn't.. you also may want to moderate the air pressure to the rivet gun to get the "stroke" you need to upset the rivet properly.. Also important is the bucking bar you use to back the driver.. how you hold it.. it's weight and surface all play into the compression of the rivet to make it fill the hole and grip the pieces being joined.. HTH... Grant... On Wed, Mar 4, 2015 at 10:32 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > Hey, I think I had best stop responding to the gun thread before I offend > someone. > I am not trying to provoke anyone but hopefully to provide an outsiders > view of the issue. > In any event I will refrain from any more comments on this issue for the > moment. > I wouldn't want Dan to have to shut it down. > > My new OT question relates to riveting. Does anyone have experience in > that area? > > I need to repair a couple of old aluminum boats and although I have done > some of this work as a helper to a fellow who knew how to do it, that was > mor than 40 years ago, so I am rusty to say the least. > > Looking online shows me that there are kits available with air hammers and > different sized rivet tools and bucking bars etc. > Some are advertised as being 2X or 3X or 4X and it appears that indicates > something about power available as the bigger number appears to indicate an > ability to do bigger rivets. > Anyone know more about that? > > Secondly, they talk about feather triggers? What are they telling me? I > assume, just that one can control the gun a bit better and it is not going > to be either on or off. > > Is there much of a difference between an air hammer intended for riveting > vs normal ones that we use to cut off a muffler etc? > > I am not a pro obviously, and I don't intend to go into the boat repair > business so I need something that will work but I am not anxious to spend a > fortune. How far into this do I need to go?? > > RB > > > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those > individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner > has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
Re: [MBZ] WAS Facts - NEW OT Riveting
Hey, I think I had best stop responding to the gun thread before I offend someone. I am not trying to provoke anyone but hopefully to provide an outsiders view of the issue. In any event I will refrain from any more comments on this issue for the moment. I wouldn't want Dan to have to shut it down. My new OT question relates to riveting. Does anyone have experience in that area? I need to repair a couple of old aluminum boats and although I have done some of this work as a helper to a fellow who knew how to do it, that was mor than 40 years ago, so I am rusty to say the least. Looking online shows me that there are kits available with air hammers and different sized rivet tools and bucking bars etc. Some are advertised as being 2X or 3X or 4X and it appears that indicates something about power available as the bigger number appears to indicate an ability to do bigger rivets. Anyone know more about that? Secondly, they talk about feather triggers? What are they telling me? I assume, just that one can control the gun a bit better and it is not going to be either on or off. Is there much of a difference between an air hammer intended for riveting vs normal ones that we use to cut off a muffler etc? I am not a pro obviously, and I don't intend to go into the boat repair business so I need something that will work but I am not anxious to spend a fortune. How far into this do I need to go?? RB ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
