Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-15 Thread John M McIntosh
Ok,this morning as temps drop to freezing the drive into town with  
the teenager became interesting since on the left side of the wagon  
it vented fresh outside
freezing air, on the right side, hotish air. Turning the dial on left  
to almost max made it a bit warmer, click to high and you get heat,  
lots of, way too much to live with, otherwise my left foot gets  
frostbite.


This has to be resolved.

Fortunately the dealer  had two temp sensors  for me, so it's either  
those, or the potentiometers, or the control unit is screwed, since I  
believe the dual mono valve is fine.


 Later this evening I tackled the job of confirming the two blower  
housing sensors are ok. First of course I found out the fan dial  
refused to come off,  I know I had it off before to replace the  
little bubs in the back lighting and in the control unit!. Pull tug,  
plead, invent new words (old words actually), snaps in two. Sigh...  
Small vice grips to pull off the inner plastic housing which is as  
you know pressure fit on, the outer dial is melted onto it with now  
broken stubs.  Off to a great start since we've busted plastic, and  
this was the easy part. So unscrew upper console wood, remove nuts,  
bulbs, place wood somewhere safe far away from the work area, prod at  
switch matrix.


The interesting thing here is the dual manual climate control is two  
temp dials, a seperate fan speed controller, and vacuum controller  
for air vents.  Not much there on the control unit proper, but a  
large nest of wires and a small 30ish pin conector with a locking  
tab, wires head off mostly to drivers side. Has to be a control unit  
somewhere else there just isn't anything in the switch assembly. Well  
there could be perhaps the manual system is really simple and the  
circuit board is the size of a pack of cards? Well since I'm here I  
carefully examine temp dial, unscrew right housing, temp dial and  
housing comes off. See nice large, clean heavy duty looking  
potentiometer. Well that looks reasonable certainly wasn't full of  
dust we'll not touch that further. Carefully examine connector, check  
tab yes it releases, try to separate. Nope, begs to snap plastic  
parts. Fiddle, prod, poke, examine, stand on my head to see  
underneath. Nope try some pressure and 30ish pins welded together  
creak and the connector releases and the two parts separate. So I  
move the switch matrix aside and dangle on driver side. What's left  
is a fan speed switch and a vacuum actuator controller pod screaming  
touch me and I'll leak air.


Peering about I can see yes on the left according to the w124 USA  
manual there should be the temp sensor right behind the control unit  
which snaps into the blower housing. Yes it's there. Ok look to the  
right, where I suspect the right temp sensor should be. Goodness  
knows what the overhead temp sensor does on this car. Yes a  
rectangular hole where the right side temp sensor should be. No temp  
sensor, just a hole into the right blower housing, no wires, nothing.  
Mmm certainly there has to be a temp sensor. I'll bet the evil telco  
that messed with the installation and deinstallation of the cell  
phone popped it off and it's lying in the bottom of the console.   
Look about, nope but odds and ends of non benz wire lurks. Nothing  
leaps up and says here am I, that would be too easy.


Ok remove radio. I need to do this to replace it anyway, attempt to  
insert radio keys, right one goes in, left one only part way. Fiddle  
lots more, then jam left one in. Radio won't budge. Pull, face plate  
pops off, well it does that anyway, still no go. Assume I am an idiot  
and can't read instructions and swap keys, nope.


Sigh, ok I really wanted to avoid all this extra work, remove center  
console storage box, unscrew center console wood, pull back, leaver  
out ashtray, or attempt to. Sigh, ensure brake is on, turn power on,  
step on brake, put shifter in neutral, finally wiggle out ashtray  
assembly, disconnect power cord. Jam two small screw drivers into  
stupid lock tabs. Pull radio out, disconnect the 8 pin becker cable,  
the 4 pin cable, the ground, and a mystery yellow handcrafted wire  
which I think later is the Phone Mute feed wire.


MMm still no temp sensor, It's an inch long, termocouple on end, size  
of your thumb, two pins has to be there somewhere. Lots' of wire,  
wires for phone coax, cable to 2nd part of becker box, stereo wires,  
etc etc. Feed wires to the missing cell controller, few other things.  
Poke prod. Finally think surely those engineers ran the 2 temp  
sensors in same wire bundle, follow wire bundle back, then foward and  
what do you know dusty temp sensor with broken tab leaps out of the  
rats nest of wire in the bottom depths of the console.


So deinstaller did it, I doubt the installer did this since at  
freezing temps the climate system is quite insane and I doubt the  
original owner would have survived the years with an insane 

Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-15 Thread Mitch Haley
Now you know why phones and cars don't mix. 
And especially why 90's and later MBZ and the monkeys who work for
phone/stereo stores don't mix.



Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-08 Thread John M McIntosh
First running the dial on the right side 5-7C colder (seems) to  
regulate things a bit.


So I wired up some benz pins/sockets, after doing the relays for my  
500E headlights I've a few wires and pins about.
Check for connectivity, then cross connected the two solenoids.  The  
hot air then switches to the driver's side from the passenger side.


This seems to indicate the $300+ duo-valve assembly is working and  
the signal it is receiving is bad. So either the control unit is bad,  
or one of the temp sensors in the left/right heater box is bad.


The temp sensors are $20 each, could I ordered a pair and we'll look  
into replacing them.  It still could be the potentiometers on the  
dials or the control unit, I guess I could disassemble the console  
and test them, then find they are bad, reassemble, disassemble  
(sigh). Er no it's a bitch to
reassemble the console and align and retighten everything based on  
my  last experience, plus all the plastic whimpers break me,  so  
we'll just order them.



On 6-Nov-05, at 5:40 PM, John M McIntosh wrote:




So it appears that right side is heating up, so it could be dual-
valve is weak on one side, or is the control unit flaky?
Mmmm I wonder if I can swap the female connectors or reverse the
connector. That would tell me if the control unit signal
is flake if the swap alters the behaviour from side to side.


Well the connector is specifically designed to disable anyone from
casually or even forcefully
connecting backward. The little plastic tabs scream, touch me and
I'll snap off so I won't rewire it.

Tomorrow I'll visit radio shack and gets some alligator clips and
wire and cross connect things
and see what happens.

That and run the temp dial 5-7 C colder on the right and see if
anything changes.


John
1983 300TDt  358k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  149k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 168k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)





Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Ocsillating temp is usually caused by a bad temp sensor blower, so that 
the cabin air isn't being pulled past the sensor -- car has to be 
pretty warm before the sensor heats up, then gets pretty cold before it 
cools off.


I'm not familiar with the dual control system, but I'd bet you have two 
temp sensors, and the suction blower (located under the right hand 
outer dash vent on the single control systems) is bad, or the hose has 
fallen off.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-07 Thread Marshall Booth

John M McIntosh wrote:
Now that cold weather as set in I've been chasing a gremlin in the  
climate control.


First this 90's wagon has manual fan speed/vent control with dual  
temp controls.


It slowly cycles between blowing mid temp, to hot, then to cold when  
you've set things to say 20c


I replaced the interior temp sensor, but testing of the old one seems  
to show it's ok anyway

and the behaviour did not change.

At the duo-valve assembly, I cleaned the contacts and I know that if  
it's disconnected that I get heat even if dials are set to min cold.
Plugging in the circuits gives me hot at max, and cold at min. Ohms  
across the valves gives zero. So I assume the valves mostly close

otherwise I would not get cold air on both sides.

My cheap digital multi-meter won't show voltage cycling, but I get  
12.75 on heat, and 13.5ish on cold on both sides of the plug

(3 prong, assuming center plug is ground).

So does this imply the push button unit is bad?
Thoughts are welcome.


The manual climate control system is unlike ANYTHING that's documented 
in the US manuals. From you description, It's not like my Euro 201 either.


See if you can find someone on the Continent (like Richard Becker) that 
has the diagnostics of that system. That's your best bet.


I agree with Peter, it could be the aspiration blower. Will the blower 
pull enough air thru the vent to suck smoke in or hold a piece of tissue 
against the vent where the cabin sensor lives? When it fails the 
temperature control usually becomes erratic and uncorrelated to what you 
select.


Marshall


--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-07 Thread John M McIntosh


On 6-Nov-05, at 4:24 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


The manual climate control system is unlike ANYTHING that's documented
in the US manuals. From you description, It's not like my Euro 201  
either.


See if you can find someone on the Continent (like Richard Becker)  
that

has the diagnostics of that system. That's your best bet.

I agree with Peter, it could be the aspiration blower. Will the blower
pull enough air thru the vent to suck smoke in or hold a piece of  
tissue

against the vent where the cabin sensor lives? When it fails the
temperature control usually becomes erratic and uncorrelated to  
what you

select.

Marshall


Well I can sit in the car for a few minutes (15 or so) and run it,  
goodness that will trash my mpg stats.


However
a) I've stuck the 1 cm square paper up on the vent and it stays  
there, stays there for many minutes, never falls.
b) Confirmed that new temp sensor seems to give a ohm reading which  
matches expectations, versus zero or infinity
c) I've 5V at the connector so some electronic widget is supply  
control voltage.


Leaving the paper up there causes heat (lots of) when set to 20C

Take paper away and think as everything goes to cool.

Ah, temp on right side center vent goes up slowly, temp on left side  
seems constant.
Then temp on left side goes down, followed slowly by right side, car  
gets cold, then repeat cycle.
Ah, that would explain the wave of heat (direction undetermined) then  
the side vent freezes my left hand on the steering wheel.


So it appears that right side is heating up, so it could be dual- 
valve is weak on one side, or is the control unit flaky?
Mmmm I wonder if I can swap the female connectors or reverse the  
connector. That would tell me if the control unit signal

is flake if the swap alters the behaviour from side to side.


Peter questioned if I have two sensors, I only see one up there, the  
hose comes across from the passenger side pillar
then attaches to the elbow joint of the temp sensor. So does it just  
decide that temp up on the left side of the panel would

be a mixture of both sides?


--
 
===

John M. McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1-800-477-2659
Corporate Smalltalk Consulting Ltd.  http://www.smalltalkconsulting.com
 
===





Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-07 Thread John M McIntosh



So it appears that right side is heating up, so it could be dual-
valve is weak on one side, or is the control unit flaky?
Mmmm I wonder if I can swap the female connectors or reverse the
connector. That would tell me if the control unit signal
is flake if the swap alters the behaviour from side to side.


Well the connector is specifically designed to disable anyone from  
casually or even forcefully
connecting backward. The little plastic tabs scream, touch me and  
I'll snap off so I won't rewire it.


Tomorrow I'll visit radio shack and gets some alligator clips and  
wire and cross connect things

and see what happens.

That and run the temp dial 5-7 C colder on the right and see if  
anything changes.


--
 
===

John M. McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] 1-800-477-2659
Corporate Smalltalk Consulting Ltd.  http://www.smalltalkconsulting.com
 
===





Re: [MBZ] cycling hot/cold in 90's w124 300TDt

2005-11-07 Thread John M McIntosh
Yes, in reading on the UK benz boards there appears to be 2 heater  
core temp sensors, and one interior sensor in the head lamp.


Tomorrow with some wire I'll swap feeds to the duo-valve assembly and  
see if the heating issue follows.


If it swaps sides then either the temp sensor on the right side  
heater core is bad or the control unit.


If it does not swap sides then the valve managing the right side  
heater core water feed is bad.


On 6-Nov-05, at 10:14 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:


John:

Temp should change at the same speed on both sides.  Sounds like you
have a bad water control valve, causing excess heating on one side, so
the other is too cold.

As I said, I'm not familiar with that system, but there HAS to be some
sort of temp sensor for each side.  It may be in the heater box  
instead

of the overhead, though, to set the correct temp in the ductwork.

Peter


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