Re: [neonixie-l] Yet more 7441, 74141 questions
On 23 lis 2011, at 21:27, chuck richards wrote: Indeed, *is* there any modern low-current bcd-to-decimal high voltage ic that provides a one-package 16 pin DIP solution to this requirement? Is there? Please let me know if there is. This is not exactly an answer to your question, but -- I thought I'd share m findings. I was looking for something that would let me drive nixies through a serial interface. The best I could find was the MC33999. It won't replace the 74141s, because of 50V max output drain voltage, but it might save some circuitry if somebody wants to direct-drive nixies through a serial/SPI connection. While searching, I also found the MCP23S18 (SPI) and MCP23018 (I2C) I/O expanders, which could also be useful. You still need a driving transistor + resistor per cathode. In my current design I decided to go with 74HC595s and 74141s; with 6 nixies you still need two 16-bit chips anyway, so three 595s are not a big deal. --J. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Question on Russian IN-14 kit
Hi all- I picked up a Russian nixie tube kit on eBay which I just received. It's got 6 IN-14s, each wired to a separate PCB with a 74141 on each board. I'm not sure if anyone on list has built one of these before, but I wondered if anyone has any tips for controlling all 6 digits for a clock without needing to control 4 separate inputs on each 74141 individually. I will have to set 24 different inputs this way to control the clock digits. I realize I will have to wire them up either way, but was hoping there might be a trick to reducing the number of unique input signals I need to manage with a microcontroller of some sort. I am still a beginner with multiplexing. I am familiar with it from the Arduinix and other designs but since each tube has its own chip I'm not sure what the best approach is. I'm still a beginner so I am probably missing something obvious. Thanks, Dylan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Question on Russian IN-14 kit
I just use the brute force method of using a 40 pin DIL PIC. Nice and easy. Nigel. - Original Message - From: Dylan Distasio To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, November 25, 2011 3:37 PM Subject: [neonixie-l] Question on Russian IN-14 kit Hi all- I picked up a Russian nixie tube kit on eBay which I just received. It's got 6 IN-14s, each wired to a separate PCB with a 74141 on each board. I'm not sure if anyone on list has built one of these before, but I wondered if anyone has any tips for controlling all 6 digits for a clock without needing to control 4 separate inputs on each 74141 individually. I will have to set 24 different inputs this way to control the clock digits. I realize I will have to wire them up either way, but was hoping there might be a trick to reducing the number of unique input signals I need to manage with a microcontroller of some sort. I am still a beginner with multiplexing. I am familiar with it from the Arduinix and other designs but since each tube has its own chip I'm not sure what the best approach is. I'm still a beginner so I am probably missing something obvious. Thanks, Dylan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Question on Russian IN-14 kit
Thanks for the comments. It might be a good exercise for me to wire up a PIC or something similar. I've been looking for a project to do some actual perfboarding versus a kit PCB, and it would let me do some PIC programming which I haven't done yet. One other question if you actually have built one of these specific units. Any suggestions on connectors for the pins? They're kind of rectangular. I soldered some wires directly to one of the units just to test it out and play with the 74141 logic table but I'd like to find a connector to slip on. All the nixies I've built up until now were from kits or using an ardunix or arduino with existing code so I haven't had to look at the truth table until now. I had fun watching the digits change based on which inputs I was setting high. I realize it's trivial, but it's exciting for someone still learning the basics. On Fri, Nov 25, 2011 at 10:44 AM, Nigel Walker dogas...@googlemail.comwrote: ** I just use the brute force method of using a 40 pin DIL PIC. Nice and easy. Nigel. - Original Message - *From:* Dylan Distasio interz...@gmail.com *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com *Sent:* Friday, November 25, 2011 3:37 PM *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Question on Russian IN-14 kit Hi all- I picked up a Russian nixie tube kit on eBay which I just received. It's got 6 IN-14s, each wired to a separate PCB with a 74141 on each board. I'm not sure if anyone on list has built one of these before, but I wondered if anyone has any tips for controlling all 6 digits for a clock without needing to control 4 separate inputs on each 74141 individually. I will have to set 24 different inputs this way to control the clock digits. I realize I will have to wire them up either way, but was hoping there might be a trick to reducing the number of unique input signals I need to manage with a microcontroller of some sort. I am still a beginner with multiplexing. I am familiar with it from the Arduinix and other designs but since each tube has its own chip I'm not sure what the best approach is. I'm still a beginner so I am probably missing something obvious. Thanks, Dylan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
And just one question. I checked the shipping prices from Mouser and Digi-key. They were both between $100 and $120 for a single item. Is it always like this (I am in Europe). In Europe, you'd likely do better ordering from RS, Farnell, or even Jaycar or Futurlec. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
RS unfortunately stopped selling to private customers eric -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of John Rehwinkel Sent: vrijdag 25 november 2011 22:13 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working And just one question. I checked the shipping prices from Mouser and Digi-key. They were both between $100 and $120 for a single item. Is it always like this (I am in Europe). In Europe, you'd likely do better ordering from RS, Farnell, or even Jaycar or Futurlec. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] 555 power supply not working
In Denmark, you can buy from RS being a private customer, but you need to do it online if is't not in stock locally. We have a local warehouse in Copenhagen, and if it's in stock there you can pick it up at the counter and pay by cash, but if it's not in stock, you'll have to order it online and pay for shipping to your home address. // Per. On 25/11/2011, at 23.25, Tidak Ada wrote: RS unfortunately stopped selling to private customers eric -Original Message- From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of John Rehwinkel Sent: vrijdag 25 november 2011 22:13 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working And just one question. I checked the shipping prices from Mouser and Digi-key. They were both between $100 and $120 for a single item. Is it always like this (I am in Europe). In Europe, you'd likely do better ordering from RS, Farnell, or even Jaycar or Futurlec. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working
Measured 54.7mV. I guess that is fine. I can't measure the voltage between the base and the emitter on Q2 yet. Don't want to put in another FET and burn it like the other 3. I want it to be the last thing. Making too big of a deal over the FET. Unless you're really cranking out some current (over 30mA out), a FET like the IRF730 will do just fine. I'm betting the coil is too puny, current wise. Its probably saturating under 200mA (in), and the rest of the current over that is just going up as heat, instead of adding to the magnetic field. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if the Chinese are making their own UF4007s, by getting 1N4007s and re-stamping them. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
