[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I would try replacing C6 again with a known good part and leave the clock out of it's case without the heat sink and see how it does. This is the exact syndrome that mine exhibited twice on the one clock until I opened up the case and dropped the voltage and replaced C6. Then add a heat sink ,if you must, a la Nick's (Pramanicin) picture above and raise the voltage up a little. Seriously doubt you have bad driver chips. Those things are pretty bullet proof On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:37:48 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote: Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds. I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two driver chips I have in there now. With another pair, the left most tube constantly displayed a digit based on the 10s of seconds. This is why I think the drivers are a bit wonky. So far both M1 and U1 are around 105-108F. I'll have to check it later when it's after 10pm and all 6 digits are in use. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d7f11b3a-5337-476a-a5ed-c957290ac833%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Well folks, I think I'm going to leave it like this for a while. I've mounted a little 20mm fan to blow across U1 M1. The extraneous digits lighting isn't significant enough to be an issue; I just assumed it had to do with the over-heating. I appreciate everyone's input. We'll see how long it goes like this. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/66de3051-7ad7-4d3d-b595-987e457f2ad4%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Is it still exhibiting the same symptoms as in your video without the heatsink? On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:12:39 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote: Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot. 109F now from the PCB side. It's hard to hit it on top because of the other PCB on top. But with the heatsink gone nothing is anywhere near as hot as it was before. Really makes no sense to me. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bbd45c75-dcb2-431e-aadf-43d54dee376b%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Niek, I do have a scope, however I'd be lying if I said I knew how to use it. I bought it used with the intention of learning how to use it, and it's sat since then. You could probably say I know enough about electronics to be dangerous. I know what resisters and capacitors and transistors do.. and I can somewhat read a schematic, but I wouldn't say I know much more beyond that. That being said; I put my meter on the 7805 and there's a solid 5.042V coming from it. I then removed the fuse and measured the current across the fuse holder, and at most it peaked at 0.5A. I've now snapped the heatsink off; the epoxy never came in contact with the leads to U1 or M1. And now I think I've discovered that it's M1 that's getting hot, not U1. Going from the solder side of the board, with the heatsink, the board was much hotter behind U1 before.. but with the heatsink gone, I can hit the case of U1 and M1 with the temp laser.. and M1 is about 85F.. U1 is about 96F. Now I've increased the voltage to the tubes back to 170V (from 165V) and U1 seems maybe a degree cooler. I'm going to kick myself if all it was was this heatsink I put on.. plus I don't understand how it was causing such a problem. Here's a video of the numbers faintly lighting. In this case it matches the seconds. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ex4b070e2r3s5p/2015-03-28%2019.52.58.mp4?dl=0 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/e11614b2-f586-4216-bae1-ecff72417303%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Glad removing the heatsink seemed to solved the issue. It's interesting it has this behavior next to the blanked out tube: does it have the same behavior when using 24 hour mode? (if it has such a mode, or any other mode where it doesn't blank out any tubes). Blanking out a single tube (of a pair) is not really recommended by switching off only the cathode driver (the chip driver). It should be done by switching off the anode driver instead, but in this case you could only switch off a pair of two tubes that way (since this is a 3x2 multiplexed clock - each pair of tubes has a single, shared anode driver (the transistors)). The driver chip may be exposed to higher voltages this way, and this could lead to it failing sooner. However, in your case it seems to be showing the seconds in what I assume is the hours tube? So, this seems more like a timing issue to me, where the anode is switched to the next pair before or right at the same time as the cathode driver was switched to the next digits. To do this right, there should be some dead time between switching off the anode and switching to the next anode (see a recent (a month or so ago) thread in this group about a similar problem). Still - if this is a new issue (and you didn't change the firmware), that would also be strange. Are you sure it wasn't always like this? On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:11:05 PM UTC+1, MichaelB wrote: I would try replacing C6 again with a known good part and leave the clock out of it's case without the heat sink and see how it does. This is the exact syndrome that mine exhibited twice on the one clock until I opened up the case and dropped the voltage and replaced C6. Then add a heat sink ,if you must, a la Nick's (Pramanicin) picture above and raise the voltage up a little. Seriously doubt you have bad driver chips. Those things are pretty bullet proof On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:37:48 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote: Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds. I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two driver chips I have in there now. With another pair, the left most tube constantly displayed a digit based on the 10s of seconds. This is why I think the drivers are a bit wonky. So far both M1 and U1 are around 105-108F. I'll have to check it later when it's after 10pm and all 6 digits are in use. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4beca468-f4a4-4997-a1f3-1cf18cc6c2fb%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 Clock Kit Recommendation
Be aware that higher temperatures will degrade electrolytic caps. I've seen some postings about this clock getting warm. I have seen 30-year-old electrolytic caps basically short-out internally; I presume it was because they dried-out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4e344d76-a9ca-4a43-87b1-2cf0239cf91b%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot. 109F now from the PCB side. It's hard to hit it on top because of the other PCB on top. But with the heatsink gone nothing is anywhere near as hot as it was before. Really makes no sense to me. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/9ac9ec31-02d4-4b5f-9df8-1b17262b9976%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Now after running it a short while, U1 is about 98F and M1 is 112F. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/be6ed907-ca1e-48ae-91b0-f2343ca22e8a%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Hmm, well, to me it seems a firmware issue with the timing: if it were the drivers, then it would be random and probably more constant, not showing the seconds. The reason you see the seconds in the 2nd to left tube is that tube is driven by the same driver chip as the seconds (there are only two drivers, and three pairs driven by them in quick succession depending on the anode being driven - only one (of three) anode driver is active at any given time). So, you can imagine that if the anode driver is switching to the next tube set (the hours pair) while the driver chip hasn't been fully switched off yet or switched to the hours digits, then you will see the seconds on the hours pair. It may be that it works better for certain driver chips than others, if they switch off a teensy bit faster, but that's just bad design: it shouldn't be that critical. It could almost certainly be fixed by a firmware fix quite easily. Maybe you can tell the designer to add some dead time. It would really tick me off having to look at this crappy faint seconds-in-hours where it should just all be solid. Every time you look at it, you get a little annoyed. That's not what you want in a clock. At some point it may be so bad that you smash it against the wall in frustration. You don't want to get to that point. I'm not sure of any reliable source of driver chips, but you can try both the Russian equivalents of the 74141 as well as the 74141 itself. If you get them from two sources, surely one of them will be good (and most probably all will be good). Try disabling that leading 0 blanking in the future - it's not very good to do that. On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:23:35 PM UTC+1, Kiran Otter wrote: Niek, Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a problem. Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for now. Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay? Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/931c3e3e-e05a-487f-88db-8b5074f8924e%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I didn't look closely when I mentioned about how to properly use heatsink compound. Was it hot before you added the heatsink? Was it hotter after? You pondered why the heatsink might make it hotter:- Someone mentioned maybe glue conducting. I mentioned the glue might insulate the heat. Overlapping a couple of components, maybe one didn't like being heated by the other? And, what if the added heatsink is acting as an UNWANTED capacitor between various pieces of the circuit? You didn't join the heatsink to earth/gnd or a rail, it was floating? Gnd-ing pretty well removes the coupling effect. [And the rail is effectively grounded.] John K/ - Original Message - From: Kiran Otter To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 8:53 AM Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating Niek, Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a problem. Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for now. Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay? Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2a2ddbd2-87d6-4cc1-93fc-81dd50c2bc91%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/191DEAD2B8FE41A783BE80504E5231E9%40compunet4f9da9. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Sorry, corrected link below. Phones are fun... Kiran, PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature! They also have a couple different cases available for the Spectrum model. I recently bought one and would recommend them. It runs nice and cool. http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk Jeff Walton From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kiran Otter Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:51 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5516fdc9.5a876b0a.176f.9e7f%40mx.google.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds. I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two driver chips I have in there now. With another pair, the left most tube constantly displayed a digit based on the 10s of seconds. This is why I think the drivers are a bit wonky. So far both M1 and U1 are around 105-108F. I'll have to check it later when it's after 10pm and all 6 digits are in use. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/7d5b9c67-b93c-4ca7-bd3f-dec619cf88d0%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Niek, Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a problem. Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for now. Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay? Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2a2ddbd2-87d6-4cc1-93fc-81dd50c2bc91%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Yes, that kit tends to eat the HV filter cap. I've replaced it in multiple clocks multiple times. Eventually I suppose I'll just figure out how to get a Tayloredge HVPS module in there, and swap the supplies the next time the cap fails in each. Jonas did have a bad batch of K155's way-back-when, which tended to have leakage between their output pins, but I'm pretty sure that would have manifested by now. It is possible your replacements have this or some other problem. The IN-3 tubes used in the colons seem to be generally flakey. I've gone through a good chunk of a box of 100 to find good ones, which start acting up soon after being installed. I found some elongated NE-2 type tubes at Mendelson's years ago. They must have been very expensive as they were individually wrapped in foam with an inspection report and then packaged 1-per-box in cardboard boxes. Once I installed those, the colon indicators never gave me any more trouble. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/54a9ef2a-7475-456e-9ac0-996743cf166c%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Terry Kennedy wrote: On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Yes, that kit tends to eat the HV filter cap. I've replaced it in multiple clocks multiple times. Eventually I suppose I'll just figure out how to get a Tayloredge HVPS module in there, and swap the supplies the next time the cap fails in each. Mine blew the fuse too, good to know i'm not the only one who had this problem. Also good to know C6 is the likely culprit. My clock has been sitting unused for a while. -Dan
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 Clock Kit Recommendation
Here is a direct link to PV Electronics Spectrum clock kit that uses the IN-18 tubes: http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=18products_id=157 Jeff W From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kiran Otter Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:51 PM To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5516fea0.6531320a.2a33.adea%40mx.google.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Could you have a faulty DS1307? Would that cause a timing issue? Nick Sent from my iPhone On Mar 28, 2015, at 15:23, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote: Niek, Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a problem. Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for now. Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay? Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2a2ddbd2-87d6-4cc1-93fc-81dd50c2bc91%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/E5FFCE18-F077-4083-80D9-A3B0C2BEEEC4%40gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/a7625eb8-22e2-454e-91ea-8b7497882c22%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Careful with epoxying a heatsink on. A heatconducting paste [dangerous chemical usually] OR a very thin layer of heatsink compound and a clip holding the heatsink is probably better. How much does the epoxy impede the heat flow? [and note I said very thin re the compound?Just enough to fill the tiny voids that exist. The usual compounds are heat insulators, but are still better than air filling the voids.] PS. I know you said the overheating is recent, but I use the opportunity to mention this topic. John k. - Original Message - From: Kiran Otter To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 2:44 AM Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating The voltage from the wallwart (12V, 1A) is 11.8V under load. The high voltage to the tubes is 172.8V. It's very difficult to get it right at 170V when adjusting R26. Something else I wanted to mention; the separator tubes (separating hours from minutes, minutes from seconds,) one of them is mostly black, and neither of them light properly. I'm wondering if they're the culprit. I'm going to remove them and see if it makes any difference. Also, I have the heatsink epoxied to both U1 and M1; maybe it's M1 that's getting hot, not U1? I'll use a infrared temp gun and see if I can distinguish which is getting so hot. Thank you for the replies! Kiran On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:45:02 AM UTC-4, blkadder wrote: I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is adjustable, could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/c3192283-c525-4403-bed6-a3979a06f065%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed to fix the issue. These clocks all seem to do this when there is inadequate cooling in an enclosed case. On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 4:55:48 AM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote: Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/9a47ca95-8d87-46cf-9fe4-408443c2e71d%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [neonixie-l] Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, Measure the input voltage to your clock. If voltage from your DC wall adapter have risen 7805 regulator will go hot. Also high voltage to Nixie tubes might also rise if input voltage to clock is too high. Sture Kiran Otter skrev den 2015-03-28 12:55: Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com mailto:neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/a7625eb8-22e2-454e-91ea-8b7497882c22%40googlegroups.com https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/a7625eb8-22e2-454e-91ea-8b7497882c22%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=emailutm_source=footer. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/5516C9CF.4040806%40gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is adjustable, could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: Hi folks, glad to find this group! I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18 tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I thought I would ask here. Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did and it appeared to fix the problem. Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube. Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot. When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just above room temperature. So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I donno if that's BS or what. Any help is appreciated! Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/f6ee8b94-d609-4d74-8d03-cff12238b0d0%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to? And I did replace C6. Could I have a bad cap? I had a hell of a time finding just one; got it shipped free from RS for for like a dollar. On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-4, MichaelB wrote: I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed to fix the issue. These clocks all seem to do this when there is inadequate cooling in an enclosed case. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/61fe150e-321b-44b1-a749-9e599f1ed503%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk). He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current clock has. If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers things right away. Hope this helps. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/010bbad1-5edb-46e9-9660-c51aec4e43b4%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Do you have a scope? Is the output of the 7805 still a clean 5V? How about the output of the HV regulator? Can you measure the current going into the clock? (with your multimeter) I'd be a bit suprised if the cause is the driver chips, because after replacing them it didn't seem to improve a lot (if any) apparently. I wouldn't be too worried about 140F for the 7805 btw, it should be able to go up quite a bit higher than that, though with the big heatsink, if attached well, it's a bit surprising. You can try lowering the input voltage to 9V, and see if this helps. Keep an eye on M1 in this case, as it will probably have to work a bit harder to pump up the HV. On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 6:57:28 PM UTC+1, blkadder wrote: I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk). He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current clock has. If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers things right away. Hope this helps. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/c62c7c5e-46a7-4c94-8e8d-2f0fad8a4209%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Around 165, can’t remember exactly, but enough so as not to sacrifice tube brightness and yes you could have a bad cap. On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:49:05 AM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote: MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to? And I did replace C6. Could I have a bad cap? I had a hell of a time finding just one; got it shipped free from RS for for like a dollar. On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-4, MichaelB wrote: I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed to fix the issue. These clocks all seem to do this when there is inadequate cooling in an enclosed case. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/8346d9f8-78d7-4414-9366-86bf3f9b56ed%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote: I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk). He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current clock has. If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers things right away. Hope this helps. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/f8d4bc46-d565-4bd0-9254-893c1957261c%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Kiran, PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature! They also have a couple different cases available for the Spectrum model. I recently bought one and would recommend them. It runs nice and cool. www.pvelectroniccs.com Jeff Walton div Original message /divdivFrom: Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com /divdivDate:03/28/2015 12:51 PM (GMT-06:00) /divdivTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com /divdivCc: /divdivSubject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating /divdiv /divBy the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bf9c36af-c129-4de0-a3fa-7b8423d521b5%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/kpajqa4i3e7t8h9rpror39tx.1427566976947%40email.android.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you also post a video of the digits issue, so it's a bit more clear what's going wrong? Thanks! On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:11:32 PM UTC+1, MichaelB wrote: Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote: I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk). He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current clock has. If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers things right away. Hope this helps. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/e5f3f061-9fed-4b38-a37a-6aaae3d09ef7%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
One more thing: can you try completely removing that heatsink, and see if it makes any difference? I designed my own nixie clock with a 7805 (also 3x2 multiplex), and it hardly gets warm at all (you can easily touch it), without any heatsink. I'd just like to exclude this heatsink as a cause, since it's not in the original design, and i'm wondering if your paste is electrically conductive at all (remember, the metal tab of the 7805 is connected to ground, and the one for the IRF640 is connected to the drain). On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:27:58 PM UTC+1, Niek wrote: You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you also post a video of the digits issue, so it's a bit more clear what's going wrong? Thanks! On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:11:32 PM UTC+1, MichaelB wrote: Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote: I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk). He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current clock has. If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers things right away. Hope this helps. Ron On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote: By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make. Kiran -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f3ec368-ee51-4458-89cd-26cce8ed8ece%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
