[neonixie-l] Re: Taylor Edge Nixie Clock Kit

['threeneurons' via neonixie-l]

I'm a little late to the party, and the discussion between old 74xx versus 
74LSxx caught my attention. In most cases, I'd favor the newer 74LS over 
the original 74xx. But the resistor values (360 ohm) paint you into using 
the older series, because 5V / 360ohms gives you 13.9mA. The value seems to 
have been chosen because of the set switch resistor values.Of course as the 
OP mentioned, removing all the 360 ohm resistors lets the unit operate 
properly. The set switches may work adequately, too.



Personally, I prefer 4000 series CMOS, for this kind of thing.


Good to see that the OP, and his buddy, figured it out.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Taylor Edge Nixie Clock Kit

[JohnK]

Good outcome. I wondered what had happened.
Saw what you meant as soon as I looked at the docs. At least you know what 
tweaks to do if anymore funnies turn up [ageing, temperature etc].

You can often scavenge the old parts from recycling centres if they haven't 
actually chewed up the boards for metal extraction.
I am sure that all the boards we see leaving here for the Philipines get 
components pulled and sold on ebay.

I regret putting off getting a bigger selection of spares for all my 
'interesting' old junk - like Data General Novas.

John K.
  - Original Message - 
  From: dave.do...@comcast.net 
  To: neonixie-l 
  Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 11:55 AM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Taylor Edge Nixie Clock Kit


  Sorry that it took me so long to get back about this clock problem. We have 
the clock work perfectly now. I have to give my friend Mike all the credit for 
figuring this out. It appears that the original clock design schematic calls 
for 7400 series ICs but the BOM calls for 74LSXX. Mike has a IC spec. book and 
after comparing the differences in the ICs we found that the 74LSXX have an 
output of 8ma and the 7400 series have an output of 16ma. We believe that the 
original design was for 7400 but in shopping for them found that there are very 
few suppliers anymore. We think that this is why they changed the BOM to 
74LSXX. With the smaller output from the 74LSXX IC and the amount of resistance 
in that circuit the current was marginal and not enough current to drive the 
other ICs correctly in the circuit. We ended up removing R1 and R3 (360 ohm) 
and leaving everything else the way it was. It works perfect now and all of the 
setting switches work fine also. Thanks for all the feedback from everyone


  Dave

  On Tuesday, March 7, 2017 at 6:37:54 PM UTC-6, dave@comcast.net wrote:
I'm hoping that someone out there can help me with a problem that I am 
having with a Taylor Edge clock kit that I built. After completing the kit and 
plugging it in it seemed to be working fine. Then I noticed that the 10s second 
display tube and the 10s minute display tube were not counting correctly. They 
would count from 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 but then it would go back to 3 then 4 then 
back to 2 and then start the sequence over again. The 1s second and 10s minute 
tubes would count fine. I asked a friend of mine that knows a lot more about 
this stuff than I do and he recommended that I try disconnecting resistors R13 
and R15 (both 240 ohm) from the time setting circuit to see what would happen. 
This fixed the counting problem but now I cannot set the time. I can't believe 
that I am the only person that has had this problem and am hoping someone out 
there knows the answer. I am attaching the schematic.


Thanks
Dave

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[neonixie-l] Re: Taylor Edge Nixie Clock Kit

[dave.do...@comcast.net]

Sorry that it took me so long to get back about this clock problem. We have 
the clock work perfectly now. I have to give my friend Mike all the credit 
for figuring this out. It appears that the original clock design schematic 
calls for 7400 series ICs but the BOM calls for 74LSXX. Mike has a IC spec. 
book and after comparing the differences in the ICs we found that the 
74LSXX have an output of 8ma and the 7400 series have an output of 16ma. We 
believe that the original design was for 7400 but in shopping for them 
found that there are very few suppliers anymore. We think that this is why 
they changed the BOM to 74LSXX. With the smaller output from the 74LSXX IC 
and the amount of resistance in that circuit the current was marginal and 
not enough current to drive the other ICs correctly in the circuit. We 
ended up removing R1 and R3 (360 ohm) and leaving everything else the way 
it was. It works perfect now and all of the setting switches work fine 
also. Thanks for all the feedback from everyone

Dave

On Tuesday, March 7, 2017 at 6:37:54 PM UTC-6, dave@comcast.net wrote:
>
> I'm hoping that someone out there can help me with a problem that I am 
> having with a Taylor Edge clock kit that I built. After completing the kit 
> and plugging it in it seemed to be working fine. Then I noticed that the 
> 10s second display tube and the 10s minute display tube were not counting 
> correctly. They would count from 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 but then it would go back 
> to 3 then 4 then back to 2 and then start the sequence over again. The 1s 
> second and 10s minute tubes would count fine. I asked a friend of mine that 
> knows a lot more about this stuff than I do and he recommended that I try 
> disconnecting resistors R13 and R15 (both 240 ohm) from the time setting 
> circuit to see what would happen. This fixed the counting problem but now I 
> cannot set the time. I can't believe that I am the only person that has had 
> this problem and am hoping someone out there knows the answer. I am 
> attaching the schematic.
>
> Thanks
> Dave
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: My favorite Nixie tube

[Tomasz Kowalczyk]

 Whoops, of course when I was writing about tubes with red coating, I meant 
Z574M, not Z573M.

BTW. a random question about Burroughs tubes and their sockets, I've 
recently bought some broken PH meter with B-5445 tubes in it. They were 
sitting tight in their sockets, but after I've desoldered them, I can 
barely insert half of pin lenght inside sockets! Is it normal for Burroughs 
made sockets to require much force while inserting tubes? I'm afraid I 
could damage them, as I have only 4 working tubes, and these are pretty 
rare around the world (and non-existent in my country), so losing one would 
mean I lost all of them.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[Dylan Distasio]

Although it will not address the +, you may want to look at these.  I have
not used these personally but on paper I think they may be close to what
you want:

http://cathodecreations.com/index.php?route=product/product=59_61_id=53


On Mar 30, 2017 6:10 AM, "okniew"  wrote:

I also found 1 more place having exactly what I was looking for, although
at a rather steep price..
https://switchmodedesign.com/collections/arduino-shields/
products/smart-nixie-tube

Have you ever had any experiences with those kits?

W dniu poniedziałek, 20 marca 2017 10:42:24 UTC+1 użytkownik okniew napisał:

> Hello everyone!
>
>
>
> I’m new to this group and this is my first post.
>
> I’m looking forward to design & build a particular project with Nixie
> display, but since I’m really not an expert and just starting, I would very
> much appreciate your help & feedback. I do have some specific questions (in
> the end), but if you look at project goal & design principles and think of
> better way to do things – please comment as well!
>
>
>
> *Project goals:*
>
> A Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display, with some additional LED
> indicators for weather conditions. Nixie display will be used to display
> the time or temperature or humidity, depending on settings.
>
> Main assumptions:
>
> 1. 6 lamps: IN-19V ("+"/"-"), 4 x IN-14 ("0" - "9" + 2 dots), IN-19A
> ("C"/"%")
>
> 2. Ability to control Nixie brightness (by Raspberry PI)
>
> 3. LED RGB back-light under each tube, with color & brightness controlled
> (by Raspberry PI)
>
>
> The look I want to achieve:
>
>
>
>
> *Design principles:*
>
> 1. As much as possible – use the components available on the market. I’d
> like to avoid designing PCBs, avoid designing custom circuits, minimize
> soldering, etc. I understand I’ll have to do those things to some extent,
> but being a newbie, I want to minimize room for failure or issues.
>
> 2. A single visible power supply for the whole thing, from 230V AC outlet,
> driving all 6 nixies (180V, 30mA), Raspberry (5V, 3A) and the LEDs.
>
> 3. All components should be ideally driven by Raspberry I2C bus interface,
> using which I could control separately: displayed value of each tube,
> brightness of each tube, color & brightness of each LED. I think this is
> the easiest and most versatile approach (but again – looking for
> confirmation / other suggestions)
>
>
>
> *Questions to start with:*
>
> 1. Are there any available to be purchased components, which you could
> recommend, fulfilling above design principles & goals? Right now, I have
> the Raspberry & the tubes, but nothing “in between” J
>
> 2. Do you think my idea of controlling all components via I2C bus is a
> good idea? I want to go for the easiest and most versatile approach.
>
> 3. Are there anywhere existing sockets for IN-14 / IN-19 tubes? Or will I
> have to solder to tubes to whatever components I select?
>
>
>
> Thanks a lot for your help!
>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[okniew]

I also found 1 more place having exactly what I was looking for, although 
at a rather steep price..
https://switchmodedesign.com/collections/arduino-shields/products/smart-nixie-tube

Have you ever had any experiences with those kits? 

W dniu poniedziałek, 20 marca 2017 10:42:24 UTC+1 użytkownik okniew napisał:
>
> Hello everyone!
>
>  
>
> I’m new to this group and this is my first post.
>
> I’m looking forward to design & build a particular project with Nixie 
> display, but since I’m really not an expert and just starting, I would very 
> much appreciate your help & feedback. I do have some specific questions (in 
> the end), but if you look at project goal & design principles and think of 
> better way to do things – please comment as well!
>
>  
>
> *Project goals:*
>
> A Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display, with some additional LED 
> indicators for weather conditions. Nixie display will be used to display 
> the time or temperature or humidity, depending on settings.
>
> Main assumptions:
>
> 1. 6 lamps: IN-19V ("+"/"-"), 4 x IN-14 ("0" - "9" + 2 dots), IN-19A 
> ("C"/"%") 
>
> 2. Ability to control Nixie brightness (by Raspberry PI) 
>
> 3. LED RGB back-light under each tube, with color & brightness controlled 
> (by Raspberry PI)
>
>
> The look I want to achieve:
>
>
>  
>
> *Design principles:*
>
> 1. As much as possible – use the components available on the market. I’d 
> like to avoid designing PCBs, avoid designing custom circuits, minimize 
> soldering, etc. I understand I’ll have to do those things to some extent, 
> but being a newbie, I want to minimize room for failure or issues. 
>
> 2. A single visible power supply for the whole thing, from 230V AC outlet, 
> driving all 6 nixies (180V, 30mA), Raspberry (5V, 3A) and the LEDs.
>
> 3. All components should be ideally driven by Raspberry I2C bus interface, 
> using which I could control separately: displayed value of each tube, 
> brightness of each tube, color & brightness of each LED. I think this is 
> the easiest and most versatile approach (but again – looking for 
> confirmation / other suggestions)
>
>  
>
> *Questions to start with:*
>
> 1. Are there any available to be purchased components, which you could 
> recommend, fulfilling above design principles & goals? Right now, I have 
> the Raspberry & the tubes, but nothing “in between” J
>
> 2. Do you think my idea of controlling all components via I2C bus is a 
> good idea? I want to go for the easiest and most versatile approach.
>
> 3. Are there anywhere existing sockets for IN-14 / IN-19 tubes? Or will I 
> have to solder to tubes to whatever components I select?
>
>  
>
> Thanks a lot for your help!
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display

[okniew]

It took me some time to answer, been quite busy with my work.
Still, thanks a lot for all your answers!

@Nick - nice suggestions, thanks for sharing the links.
@Alic - yes, it has to RPI, main reason for this is - I already bought it :)
@Tomasz Kowalczyk - thank you for all the information, indeed there are 
IN-14 and IN-19 boards at OSH park. As for the remaining part of the answer 
- lots of information to digest :) As I mentioned initially, I prefer to 
use ready and available on the markets elements, but surely your answer is 
inspiring ;)

Lots of information to process.
Any other recommendations and ideas will be much appreciated!


W dniu poniedziałek, 20 marca 2017 10:42:24 UTC+1 użytkownik okniew napisał:
>
> Hello everyone!
>
>  
>
> I’m new to this group and this is my first post.
>
> I’m looking forward to design & build a particular project with Nixie 
> display, but since I’m really not an expert and just starting, I would very 
> much appreciate your help & feedback. I do have some specific questions (in 
> the end), but if you look at project goal & design principles and think of 
> better way to do things – please comment as well!
>
>  
>
> *Project goals:*
>
> A Raspberry PI controlled Nixie display, with some additional LED 
> indicators for weather conditions. Nixie display will be used to display 
> the time or temperature or humidity, depending on settings.
>
> Main assumptions:
>
> 1. 6 lamps: IN-19V ("+"/"-"), 4 x IN-14 ("0" - "9" + 2 dots), IN-19A 
> ("C"/"%") 
>
> 2. Ability to control Nixie brightness (by Raspberry PI) 
>
> 3. LED RGB back-light under each tube, with color & brightness controlled 
> (by Raspberry PI)
>
>
> The look I want to achieve:
>
>
>  
>
> *Design principles:*
>
> 1. As much as possible – use the components available on the market. I’d 
> like to avoid designing PCBs, avoid designing custom circuits, minimize 
> soldering, etc. I understand I’ll have to do those things to some extent, 
> but being a newbie, I want to minimize room for failure or issues. 
>
> 2. A single visible power supply for the whole thing, from 230V AC outlet, 
> driving all 6 nixies (180V, 30mA), Raspberry (5V, 3A) and the LEDs.
>
> 3. All components should be ideally driven by Raspberry I2C bus interface, 
> using which I could control separately: displayed value of each tube, 
> brightness of each tube, color & brightness of each LED. I think this is 
> the easiest and most versatile approach (but again – looking for 
> confirmation / other suggestions)
>
>  
>
> *Questions to start with:*
>
> 1. Are there any available to be purchased components, which you could 
> recommend, fulfilling above design principles & goals? Right now, I have 
> the Raspberry & the tubes, but nothing “in between” J
>
> 2. Do you think my idea of controlling all components via I2C bus is a 
> good idea? I want to go for the easiest and most versatile approach.
>
> 3. Are there anywhere existing sockets for IN-14 / IN-19 tubes? Or will I 
> have to solder to tubes to whatever components I select?
>
>  
>
> Thanks a lot for your help!
>

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