Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread gregebert
I gave that idea a lot of thought, but I decided against it for 2 reasons:

#1 It will waste a fair amount of energy. There were several methods I 
analyzed using the power sources I had available in the design, and this 
was the closest to a perfect solution.

#2 Using the center-tapped transformer made the best sense because it 
simplified the bias circuit, and using AC resulted in "averaging" that 
circumvents brightness variation seen in VFDs with a DC filament supply.



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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread 'John Rehwinkel' via neonixie-l
> My original intention was that I would monitor the anode-current for all 6 
> tubes, and I could detect a partial filament burnout by checking for 
> lower-than-expected current. Software could isolate the failing tube, then 
> shut down the clock. Unfortunately there is a source of noise in the op-amp 
> summer circuit I use that gives me erratic current readings. Eventually I'll 
> figure out what's wrong.

I would have used a current regulated supply for the filament (well, six of 
them in your case), which will also automatically give a nice soft start-up, 
and allow you to easily monitor the filament by monitoring its voltage.

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread gregebert
After some experimenting, I ended-up using 5.1 ohms for a single resistor. 
I could have used 2 resistors, one on each side, to maintain DC balance but 
instead I chose to use a single resistor so I could have my FPGA monitor 
the filament status, along with it's associated fuse and resistor. Each 
filament has it's own 250mA fuse for protection (this is a 6-tube NIMO 
clock). It wasn't necessary it was to go to that extreme, and it burned-up 
a lot of FPGA pins, but this is a project/experiment where I really wanted 
to go overboard with the instrumentation and self-checking. DC-balance 
really isn't necessary because everything averages-out over time, and I 
just adjust the DC offset (with a DAC under software control).

Regarding the filament, it's actually 2 parallel-connected filaments inside 
the tube. So when 1 of them blows, only half of the digits will work.

My original intention was that I would monitor the anode-current for all 6 
tubes, and I could detect a partial filament burnout by checking for 
lower-than-expected current. Software could isolate the failing tube, then 
shut down the clock. Unfortunately there is a source of noise in the op-amp 
summer circuit I use that gives me erratic current readings. Eventually 
I'll figure out what's wrong.

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread Dekatron42
Well, I can answer my last question on my own, didn't think correctly there 
- of course you don't short these resistors as that would result in 2.5V 
across the heaters.

The reason I asked was because I thought you perhaps had two sets of series 
resistors, one left in the circuit at all times and one that was shorted 
after some time.

/Martin

On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 23:25:32 UTC+2, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> So you are using something like a 6.8 Ohm series resistor on each side of 
> the heater to get these figures?
>
> If you use a series resistor on each side, what effect does that result in 
> on the DC-bias, none or something that you have to adjust for?
>
> Do you short these resistors after some time so they are not affecting the 
> circuit, or do you leave them in there?
>
> /Martin
>
> On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 21:03:50 UTC+2, gregebert wrote:
>>
>> Be careful about the inrush current when energizing the filaments; the 
>> cold resistance is around 2.8 ohms, whereas hot is around 7 ohms. So, with 
>> a 1.1V supply, your surge-current will be about 400mA unless you use 
>> circuit tricks to lower it.
>>
>> I use a series resistor + fuse and drive from a 2.5V transformer; my peak 
>> current is around 250mA,  and 180mA operating.
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread Dekatron42
So you are using something like a 6.8 Ohm series resistor on each side of 
the heater to get these figures?

If you use a series resistor on each side, what effect does that result in 
on the DC-bias, none or something that you have to adjust for?

Do you short these resistors after some time so they are not affecting the 
circuit, or do you leave them in there?

/Martin

On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 21:03:50 UTC+2, gregebert wrote:
>
> Be careful about the inrush current when energizing the filaments; the 
> cold resistance is around 2.8 ohms, whereas hot is around 7 ohms. So, with 
> a 1.1V supply, your surge-current will be about 400mA unless you use 
> circuit tricks to lower it.
>
> I use a series resistor + fuse and drive from a 2.5V transformer; my peak 
> current is around 250mA,  and 180mA operating.
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread gregebert
Be careful about the inrush current when energizing the filaments; the cold 
resistance is around 2.8 ohms, whereas hot is around 7 ohms. So, with a 
1.1V supply, your surge-current will be about 400mA unless you use circuit 
tricks to lower it.

I use a series resistor + fuse and drive from a 2.5V transformer; my peak 
current is around 250mA,  and 180mA operating.

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread jörg
Yes, i agree with grebert.
The filament driving was the most "dangerous", in terms of afraid, part for 
me.
Not the high voltage.
I do not want, in any case, to overload or destroy the filament due to too 
much current.
The 1,1Vrms are crucial, because it affect the lifetime of the tube. 
Thats why I've choosen the royer type of pws and not a linear regulated 
power supply, which was my first idea.


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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread gregebert
No worries... NIMO tubes are not harmful in terms radiation (voltage is too 
low), and any toxicity of internal materials would be no-worse than a CFL 
bulb (I doubt NIMO tubes have mercury, but they do have phosphorus and 
other things).

Even the high voltage (2kV) isn't harmful due to the low current (30uA per 
tube) as long as small capacitors are used.

By far, the biggest risk is the handling of the tube itself, and making 
sure the circuit never exceeds the ratings of the tube, particularly the 
filament.

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread jörg
Hi Martin,
i did not work on the ghosting issue. I'm waiting for the pcb's.
After that, i will start get rid of that problem.
@paul: yes i know that video. It looks like that the ghosting issue is 
there, too.

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread Paul Andrews
I assume you guys have also looked at 
this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmWg7CtN0Ac

On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 10:21:27 AM UTC-4, Dekatron42 wrote:
>
> @jörg: if you fixed the ghosting you had on the digit, how did you do it?
>
> @gregebert: you mentioned some leaked from th "7" digit, what was the 
> cause of this?
>
> I am trying to get the courage to experiment with my NIMOs
>
> /Martin
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] NIMO

2020-06-30 Thread Dekatron42
@jörg: if you fixed the ghosting you had on the digit, how did you do it?

@gregebert: you mentioned some leaked from th "7" digit, what was the cause 
of this?

I am trying to get the courage to experiment with my NIMOs

/Martin

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