[neonixie-l] Any one have a dutchtronix kit or PCB?

[Chris Stalin]

Hey fellas.

The CRT bug bit me.. Thanks to John R!
I have emailed dutchtronix regarding a single PCB for my self. Sparkfun seems 
to bave discontinued the oscilloscope clock pcb.

Do any one have a spare pcb or kit kicking around I could buy ? I was hoping 
for the pcb only as I have most of the parts ( except the DAC )

I suppose I could use sparkfuns eagle files and send them off to a fab house

One last question, I have access to the russian 3LO1I and 6LO1I CRT. ( thanks 
John ).
Ive seen 2 threads discussing the phospor lifetime of the tubes to be less then 
1000 hrs. Can any one confirm ? Not too useful as a clock if its lifetime is so 
short.

Thanks guys
Christian

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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Pre-Plug: New Clock Kit Coming Soon

[Chris Stalin]

You've done amazing work previous, This new adventure should be just as 
good if not better.

I am waiting patiently for the release. Is any of this going to be open to 
the public or kits only?
You mentioned RTC. How about a simple DS3231 RTC. Very accurate and 
provides a nice 1hz output too if you so desire to utilize it.

Thanks
Christian


On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:48:13 AM UTC-6, threeneurons wrote:
>
> Just sent out an order for a new clock kit board.
>
> Over the past two years, I had been selling a descrete logic kit, with 
> input, from Westdave:
>
>
> http://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/nixie-clock-kit-6-digit-with-dekatron-pendulum/
>
> But, I've notice the Russian 74141 prices have been steadily increases, as 
> their supply is diminishing. This old kit uses 5 of them. Never understood 
> why people needed 6. Anyways, a new design was in order, to use more 
> readily available parts, and more local parts. I'm still selling the old 
> version, but only as bare boards.
>
> Here's a demo video of the prototype, of the uC based, new one:
>
>
> http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x261jze_nixie5-prototype-demonstration_tech
>
> To minimize parts count, hence easier to build, its multiplexed. 
> Charlie-plexed actually, which even saves on more parts. I added "mid-pull 
> (to 100V) resistors" to all anode and cathode lines, and there is ~250uS 
> blanking between digits. Total frame rate is 64Hz. It has an onboard PS, 
> that's set for 200V. The higher the supply voltage, the faster the tube 
> turns ON. Other features are a dekatron pendulum, and hourly chimes. Those 
> are a must for me. It can do both 12 or 24 hour display modes. Time base is 
> automatic. If it sees AC power coming in, it will determine and sync to the 
> 50 or 60Hz. If the freq is not present, or too far off, it will default to 
> the internal crystal. No GPS.
>
> Control is simple. 3 switches; 2 momentary. Those are for setting the 
> hours, minutes, and enabling the alarm clock mode. When you enter "alarm 
> clock mode", the alarm time will display, transiently, for seven seconds. 
> during this time you can adjust the alarm time. That seven seconds gets 
> reset to a new seven seconds, with each button press, so you really have 
> more than seven seconds. Just seven seconds for the first push. If its 
> displaying the the "real time", either in "alarm clock mode", or "normal 
> mode", then the hour and minute switches adjust that displayed time.
>
> Jason Harper wrote a great document on Charlieplexing transistors, ~10 
> years ago. I can't seem to find the link to it. I should still have a copy 
> of his original PDF.
>
> I'll tell you, in this thread once I get the kits listed on eBay. Probably 
> in ~2weeks.
>
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Pair of IV15's and some fun oscillation

[Chris Stalin]

Hey fellas,

Working on a little eye candy project for my wife. I will nestle a 
ITM2M cube ( when my CD4060 IC arrives ) between these flashing IV15 bulbs 
I got from jrehwin. He was kind enough to help me out not only with 
hardware but setting them up. Thanks again big guy!

 I took some videos for you guys show the differnt speeds of oscillation 
that is adjust through the resistor cap combo.
Also included is a schematic of the original idea. Mine is adjusted 
slightly to provide 5V to the filaments and 165V direct to the anode 
through a current limiting resistor. ALso some literature of testing others 
have done. ( Similar to the DM160 but the IV15 is cheaper )
Any one have a dozen they want to sell? LOL

http://www.electrojumble.org/DM160_Circuit.gif
http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_iv-15.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dis4UYSWwUA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cj2MMX_Uvog
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9Iwq0oiIss

Hope you all enjoy the simple osc circuit and videos. 
Thanks again John!!

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[neonixie-l] [NEONIXIE-L] ITM2M color plasma display (was Strange Tubes on Ebay)

[Chris Stalin]

Joe.

Looking to chat with you regarding your 4060 driveen ITM2M.

Please see thread started by me.
"Calling on Joe"

Thanks
Christian

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[neonixie-l] Calling on Joe Sousa - You in here?

[Chris Stalin]

Hello all and Joe.

I wanted to ask Joe a particular question regarding his little ITM2M 
circuit using the 4060 counter. 
A neonixie guru ( jrehwin ) pointed me in this sites direction 
http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/itm2m_application.html
and fell in love immediately. My question is this.

I would like to omit the 120V input and related components to bump the 
voltage up to 300V.
I have a taylor edge power supply that runs from 12V DC and can safely 
output 150-200V DC. With a doubler and tripler and a voltage divider I was 
able to get the ITM2M running. But with limited success. ( mostly issues 
with switching the pixels on and off )

Can I simply provide 15V to the 4060 counter VDD and a 300V DC to pin 9, Or 
is that critical in terms of having a pulsed input?
Looking for a quick and easy way to rotate through the rows columns or 
pixels on this cube.

Or perhaps an easy arduino code and 8 x high voltage transistor to trigger 
each pin?

Thanks guys!
Christian

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[neonixie-l] Anyone have access to neonixie files?

[Chris Stalin]

Hey fellas.

Looking to view some files but the yahoo group is closed and im not regged 
there.
Can any one download its contents so I can host it for everyone?

Thanks guys.

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[neonixie-l] Re: MC34063 SMPS questions

[Chris Stalin]

Good day,

No scope sadly. Its on the list of things to get, I seldom do SMPS black 
art so I haven't had a real use for one.
I guess I will get friendly with the Spice emulation software.

My input is 11.5V wallcube.
Originally I had my timing cap at 1000pf, Wich gave me about 150V area. 
After taking it to 2000-3000pf things really sarted to show up in terms of 
voltage, 180-185V but it seems that's where it capped out. Not to mention 
the FET was burning and the coil was getting warm.

Mike Morreess doesn't have a heat sink and proposes his unit will pull 35mA 
at 190V. So I don't think a heat sink is needed. Just need to know what to 
tweak.

Thanks for the reply yet again!

On Monday, June 16, 2014 6:32:23 PM UTC-6, greg...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> Do you have a scope ? If not, your only other solution is to run extensive 
> simulations. We really need to see what's happening in the circuit.
>
> The large voltage droop (25V) at 15-20mA load-current suggests your 
> converter is running at a really low frequency, maybe 150Hz.
>
> What Vcc are you running ? Hard for me to determine if your inductor is 
> getting saturated (Isat is 1.2 amps from the website)
>
> When you changed the timing capacitor, did you increase it or decrease it 
> ? I would expect that decreasing the capacitance value would increase the 
> converter's frequency and produce less droop/ripple at the +180V output. 
> Switching losses increase at higher frequencies, but my gut feeling is that 
> the temperature increase you saw is not caused by this, unless the 
> frequency was too high for Q1 & Q3 to handle, in which case the MOSFET 
> might not be turning-on or shutting-off completely. This is where the scope 
> would really help.
>
> If you increased the timing-capacitor value, and reduced the frequency of 
> operation, you have to be careful about dumping too much current into the 
> inductor, which leads to saturation and also higher conduction losses in 
> Q2. You should be able to keep the IRF740 cool enough with a small heatsink 
> once the design is tweaked.
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] MC34063 SMPS questions

[Chris Stalin]

Hi Philip,

A friend suggested that extra cap just before the coil. Surprise surprise :)
The explanation for the voltage ripple on the 540V line makes sense, With 
no real feedback there can't be any regulation.
I have much bigger issue on of heavy sag on the 180V line. I removed the 
tripler all together for testing.

I plan to have identical caps @ 600V when I figure out this sagging issue. 
Thanks for the tips and your time!


On Tuesday, June 17, 2014 5:47:42 AM UTC-6, Philip Pemberton wrote:
>
> On 15/06/14 17:23, Chris Stalin wrote: 
> > 1. I also added a 220uF cap near the coil. I noticed the voltage jump 
> > about 3 volts. I have kept the 220uF cap near the IC. Does any one 
> > recommend I keep the IC cap or remove it o adjust its value? When 
> > removed the voltage drops about 1 volt. So clearly adding or removing 
> > caps adjust the voltage - just not sure why. None of my caps are low ESR 
> > yet. 
>
>  From the circuit, it's probably providing an alternate source of 
> current for L1 which bypasses R3..R6. What you're seeing is the 
> capacitor charging while Q2 is off then discharging into L2 when Q2 is 
> on, supplementing the current coming from R3..R6. 
>
> The 34063 notices that there's less voltage going through the current 
> sense resistors (via Ipk Sense) and reacts by increasing the power 
> through Q2 by increasing the duty cycle. (if I remember correctly the 
> 34063 is an "almost-PWM" controller). 
>
> > 2. When my system is not loaded and just idling I see about 182.5V on 
> > the 180V line and 535V on the 540V line. 
> > When I load down my 180V line with 5mA of resistance my voltage jumps 
> > 555V on the 540 line. 180V line stays the same. Can any one explain why 
> > this is happening? I would assume a load on the system would make 
> > voltage sag not drop. 
>
> You have a Cockroft-Walton divider comprised of C6, D2, D3, and the 
> other unnamed parts. What you're probably seeing is the divider 
> responding differently to a change in input frequency and/or voltage. 
>
> In short, The 34063 is regulating the 180V rail, but not the 540V rail. 
> If your feedback was coming from the 540V rail you'd expect to see the 
> 180V rail jumping around while the 540V remains stable. 
>
> Are you loading down the 540V rail at all? 
>
> > 3. Are the cap values critical? I need to pick up a couple more caps as 
> > I ran out of HV caps. I currently have 2.2uF caps x 2 and the rest are 
> > 4.7uF and 10uF 450V caps - Just for testing purposes only. ( cap values 
> > from 1-2.2uF throughout the HV section is acceptable ? ) 
>
> I'll let someone else field this one as I don't have an answer. Sorry! :( 
>
> Though ideally for a C-W multiplier all the capacitors and all the 
> diodes should be identical. If they're not, this might be why you're 
> seeing the voltage rise slightly. 
>
> Thanks, 
> -- 
> Phil. 
> phi...@philpem.me.uk  
> http://www.philpem.me.uk/ 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: MC34063 SMPS questions

[Chris Stalin]

Thanks for the fast and detailed reply Greg.

I have removed C2 as you have suggested, And after reviewing my setup I 
adjusted some items.
I also follow you on the peak voltage and thus the reason for my voltage 
jump.
The 600V cap idea sounds spot on to me, And that is why I posted this 
thread before I buy a bunch of stuff from digike or tayda.

After adjusting my setup and removing the tripler for further testing, This 
time I coupled the output of the 180V line to my nixie tubes ( 6 x IN8-2 
tubes and 2 neon colons ) In the range of 15-20mA current draw. 
With the current setup minus the tripler and a 4.7uF 450 output capacitor 
the system sagged quite a bit, From 180V down to about 155V

The only thing that seemed to help was the timing capacitor, 2000-3000 pF 
area. If I pushed it too much then my mosfet would become alarmingly hot - 
Enough to burn me after a couple of seconds. So then I proceeded to adjust 
the bias resistors. I didn't get too far. I thought I would give Mike 
Moorress schematic 
http://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/hv-supply-kit/ a go 
with only 1 transistor and diode but that also gave me a low loaded V of 
about 160V

Any insight on what I should do or any ideas on what the issue could be 
before I buying some more parts I would like to know roughly what I should 
be looking at, A friend suggest a better mosfet with lower resistance 
around 0.1-0.5 Ohms
Perhaps a bigger inductor? I am currently using the RFB1010L 220uH 
http://www.coilcraft.com/rfb1010.cfm

I am all ears my friend!
Thanks


On Sunday, June 15, 2014 11:14:21 PM UTC-6, greg...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> 1. If you are referring to C2, it's just for supply-filtering. It really 
> isnt necessary in my opinion if your DC supply is well-filtered. C8 will 
> provide some filtering for the  current-feedback sensing via R3 thru R6; 
> without C8 I can imagine there would be some ringing when Q2 turns off. The 
> circuit appears to use voltage-feedback (Vref signal) derived from the 180V 
> output, so the sizing of C2 and C8 will have only second-order effects in 
> controlling the 180V output. R7, R10, and especially R9 determine the +180V 
> output.
>
> 2. This is the voltage-regulator "doing it's job"; the closed-loop system 
> is intended to keep a constant voltage at the 180V output. Now, the reason 
> why the +540V output swings higher when the 180V supply is loaded -down 
> would be more apparent if you probed around with an oscilloscope, or ran a 
> simulation. I use Linear Technology devices in my designs, and run 
> extensive LTSpice simuations on them; I did not find a SPICE model on 
> Exar's website. Anyways, what probably is happening is that when the +180v 
> supply is loaded-down, the amount of ripple-voltage increases, which still 
> gives an average of +180V. However, the voltage-tripler will use the *peak* 
> voltage from the 180V supply, and under heavier loading the peak value on 
> the 180V output will increase.
>
> 3. The values of the 2uF caps is really determined by the amount of load 
> current. Recall that I=C dV/dt, so if you increase the load current, you 
> have to increase the capacitance proportionately to maintain the same 
> ripple-voltage (assuming the frequency to the DC-DC converter is not 
> changed). Be aware that C4 has to provide current for the +180V supply and 
> also for the tripler, so it should be the largest capacitance. It is pretty 
> important that the other 2uF caps have the same value and they should be 
> the same type & manufacturer, because their voltage -rating is less than 
> 540V output. This means that you are relying upon charge-sharing to keep 
> the capacitor voltage within the rated limit. I recommend you read the 
> manufacturer datasheet to see what they recommend for sizing 
> balance-resistors to keep the capacitor voltage safe for all conditions, 
> etc. Better yet, use 600V capacitors then you dont have to worry at all 
> about balancing resistors.
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: New power supply design

[Chris Stalin]

Any updates John?

Thanks


On Sunday, September 22, 2013 9:51:18 PM UTC-6, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Ron: j...@tayloredge.com 

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[neonixie-l] Re: 74HCT595 shift register in DIP package?

[Chris Stalin]

No issues at 3.3V

Ebay.com - 10 for about 2$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-IC-74HC595-74595-SN74HC595N-8-Bit-Shift-Register-DIP-16-NEW-GOOD-QUALITY-/290739784423?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b1710ae7

Gluck

On Friday, November 29, 2013 4:50:45 AM UTC-7, Matt Wetherill wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> My reacquaintance with Nixie's is progressing well and I'm looking at 
> experimenting with driving them via a Raspberry Pi.  I know this is 
> complete overkill but it makes for a nice experimentation platform and I'm 
> comfortable with Python (so eases the learning curve!). 
>
> With this in mind and given the Pi's low GPIO pin count, I want to 
> experiment with shift registers and I believe that the 74HCT595 is suitable 
> for driving via from the Pi's 3.3v logic.  However, I'm having difficulty 
> finding this chip in a DIP package.
>
> Does anyone know of a source of these shift registers in DIP form (or 
> indeed any equivalents)?
>
> Many thanks
> Matt
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Nixie tube plastic spacers needed.

[Chris Stalin]

Hi Adam,

LOL horrible 4, Nothing beats that degenerate upside down 5. The IN82 4 is 
slightly bigger vertically and doesn't over lap the horizontal portion, So 
yeah its not perfect.. Personal preference in the end.

Why the spacers? Because it looks more professional and clean. No to 
mention if one wanted to add floor lighting to a tube it would shine up 
into the tube and now flood the entire PCB.

No way I will use the IN8 pins, That's the whole reason I opted for IN8-2.

Thanks for your input. I appreciate it!
Chris


On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 11:12:11 AM UTC-7, Adam Jacobs wrote:
>
>
> Well, Sure, minus the upside down 2 for a 5. :) But plus the HORRIBLE 4 
> numeral. 
> I like the 5's in the IN-8-2's, but the 4's are bad enough that I 
> switched back to IN-14's back in the day. 
> Now, neither of those nixie tubes are cheap enough for me to use in new 
> designs. All of my stockpile of IN-8's, IN-8-2's, IN-14's and IN-16's 
> are replacement parts only for existing clocks. 
>
> Why do you want spacers for your IN-8-2's, anyways? They didn't come 
> with them. I'd skip the spacers and go with IN-8's and sockets if that 
> is the look you are going for. Granted, sockets for the IN-8 can 
> sometimes be difficult to find. I think it was the IN-2 that uses the 
> same socket. Socketed Nixie tubes are a lot more fun to deal with when 
> replacing. 
>
> -Adam 
>
> On 11/26/2013 10:03 AM, Chris Stalin wrote: 
> > Hey fellas, 
> > 
> > I am looking for a source ( yeah right ) for IN14 nixie tube spacers. 
> > They are actually for my IN8-2 tubes. But the IN14 will fit perfectly. 
> > They are virtually the same minus that HORRIBLE upside down 5 number. 
> > 
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Nixie tube plastic spacers needed.

[Chris Stalin]

Hey fellas,

I am looking for a source ( yeah right ) for IN14 nixie tube spacers. They 
are actually for my IN8-2 tubes. But the IN14 will fit perfectly. They are 
virtually the same minus that HORRIBLE upside down 5 number.

Any insight is appreciated - Need about 12. Less is fine, Even 1 is great.

Thanks guys!

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: New power supply design

[Chris Stalin]

Hey John,

Curious are the 600V model power supply complete?

Thanks

On Sunday, September 1, 2013 4:15:11 PM UTC-6, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> The 1474 design is for high power and high voltage (Up to 75W and up to 
> 600V on board, no multiplication).  It will be available in about 2 weeks 
> in the 150-300V adjustable version.
>
> 100W, 306V:  
> http://ppl.ug/iPAmeWyGAbI/
> New load bank: 
> http://ppl.ug/ZDU68hsXQik/
>
> I am also doing a refresh of the 1363/1364 based on the new controller in 
> the same time frame for about double the power (20W) of the original with 
> an extended input range: 5V to 36V.  The 2W+ efficiency should be in the 
> high 80s/low 90s.  This uses a significantly different control scheme and 
> will be silent at all input/output conditions.  The pricing on the refresh 
> will be the same as the original.
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] A "small" project

[Chris Stalin]

LOL, Love it. Great work!

Are you PWMing a FET for power from the atmega158?

Thanks

On Monday, November 25, 2013 7:45:50 AM UTC-7, Michail wrote:
>
>  Pretty.
>  
> I didn't see the order form.  :)
>  
> Michail Wilson
> 206-920-6312 
>  
>  In a message dated 11/25/2013 3:00:40 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
> pete...@gmail.com  writes:
>
>  [image: 
> https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LS5WWI-ky2c/UpMk2OK4BrI/AEc/yf_bxteNyBE/s1600/Altoid+Nixie1.jpg]
> I put this little guy together recently - I always wanted to see if it 
> could be done. I figure the audience here will appreciate it. It has 
> multiplexed IN16 tubes, driven by an ATmega168 AVR processor that keeps the 
> time and also generates the high voltage.
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: BAD DEKATRON SELLER "fruwlo" (Irina Bashkevich) on eBay

[Chris Stalin]

Matthew,

Thanks my friend for the reply and pictures. Your second post included the 
picture. All I can say is MY GOD "face palm"
That is no joke... Makes complete sense on why its so sensitive, Its the 
size of a spent uranium fuel rod LOL.

What is you background reading on the 3 side by side and what is your 
reading to a sample ?
I am curious on the SBM21 vs. the 20. Haven't decided what to buy.

Ahh yes good old sovtbe.com Used them before, Good product and at least we 
can trust him to send you NOS items.
The DP5V is a nice unit, But a bit much. My project uses a arduino and a uP 
and then a GM tube and simple 555 power supply. 

Keep us posted on your project, Very curious on how it goes!
And let me know what readings you get on the 20 vs. 21 tube please.

Thanks again Matthew, And sorry for hijacking the OP thread!


On Friday, November 15, 2013 2:37:14 PM UTC-7, Matthew Smith wrote:
>
> Quoth Chris Stalin at 16/11/13 07:10... 
> ... 
> > Do you mind sharing who you bought the geiger counter from? 
> > I was just about the go ahead and grab one for a geiger counter project. 
> > SBM20 or maybe STS6. 
>
> This is the vendor, but she doesn't have any at present: 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/lenalosku/m.html 
>
> However, this guy has them (DP-5V) listed, also sells Nixies, GM tubes, 
> Xray tubes, capacitors, and more. Found him (Denis) most helpful: 
> http://www.sovtube.com/en/  If there are things listed in bulk lots but 
> not singly, just ask. 
>
> SBM20s are the low-range tube used in the DP5-V, pretty good work-horses 
> they are. If you want a bit more sensitivity and don't mind extra 
> physical size, The SI22G is VERY sensitive. Not sure how this list 
> handles attachments (if at all) but I've just taken a photo of an SBM-21 
> (in plastic bag,) SBM20 (middle,) SI22G (huge!) for comparison. 
>
> Have plans to make a Nixie display benchtop counter, using  as close as 
> possible to the DP5-V tube-regulated power supply as I can. (Will still 
> cheat and use a microcontroller, though!) 
>
> Cheers 
>
> M 
>
> -- 
> Matthew Smith 
>
> Business: http://www.smiffytech.com 
> Blog: http://www.smiffysplace.com 
> Linkedin: http://www.linkedin.com/in/smiffy 
> Flickr:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/msmiffy 
> Twitter:  http://twitter.com/smiffy 
>
> ABN 16 391 203 815 
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Threeneurons charge pump question!

[Chris Stalin]

John,

Funny you should say that about the od TV. I just retired my old tube TV 
and decided to keep the electronics.
I did find some 2KV ceramics caps but the others are either too small in 
capacitance or don't indicate voltage ( they are quite large though 3/4" in 
diameter )

I resort to places like taydaelectronics goldmine ebay dipmicro etc. So I 
have to keep my part selection narrow or according to what I can find.

Thanks for the detailed information and reply as always.

Take care John


On Friday, November 15, 2013 1:07:33 PM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote:
>
> > Wonderful reply. I really appreciate the link and the explanation. 
> > I now understand why Michael mentioned his method uses simple parts, In 
> comparison to JT HVPS - I haven't a clue where I can source 4700pf 3kv 
> ceramic capacitors hah! 
>
> I get things like that from old television sets, computer monitors, and 
> bug zappers. 
>
> Or you can buy 'em from Digikey/Mouser/Newark or various surplus outfits 
> (Electronics Goldmine often has high voltage capacitors), for example: 
>
> http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S472M69Z5UR63L0R/1290PH-ND/2356826($3.78
>  for ten) 
>
> > Is that last 3kv ceramic to smooth things out? 
>
> Looks that way. 
>
> > In some respects the 4093 derived pulse and cheap parts almost beats 
> playing with slightly harder to find parts using the AC pulse, And trying 
> to solder to the tiny foot print of the HVPS Rather interesting. 
>
> It is easier to just use the built-in connector on the HVPS instead of 
> tacking wires to it.  Like many of these things, it depends on what's 
> important to you. 
>
> > Is the inductor choice critical in terms of current or would a simple 
> axial lead inductor work? 
>
> The current is tiny, and the waveshaping function is non-critical, so an 
> ordinary axial lead inductor should be fine. 
>
> > Does one adjust the voltage resistor to get 200V DC output from the HVPS 
> and then add the 100Kohm preload or what is meant by preload? 
>
> The HVPS has trouble staying regulated without a load on its usual DC 
> output - that's what the 100KΩ resistor is for - just to provide a minimal 
> load.  Attach it first, then adjust for 200V (for Vadjust to ground, this 
> works out to around 470Ω). 
>
> > Would 1N49378 diode suffice? 
>
> Yeah, a 1N4937 should be fine.  I just buy UF4007 diodes in bulk (100 for 
> $17) and use 'em for everything. 
>
> > "For doubler DNI C3 and bypass CR3" - Is that electrical engineer terms 
> for omit C3 and CR3(Diode)? lol 
>
> Yeah, DNI means "do not install", and "bypass" (in this context) means 
> "replace with short circuit". 
>
> > As for AC out routing comment, How far did he anticipate a person should 
> or would place their connections in relation to the HVPS it self? 
>
> Since it's a high frequency, high voltage signal, it's going to suffer 
> capacitive and possibly corona loss fairly easily, so it would be best to 
> keep such wires short.  His routing comment refers to the fact that the 
> high voltage AC output can couple back into the power supply's feedback 
> circuitry and cause trouble - so the wire from the AC output should be 
> routed away from the board. 
>
> > More questions then I came in with originally, Always some thing new! 
>
> Questions and answers are how we all learn (both the people asking them 
> and the people answering them).  Bring 'em on! 
>
> - John 
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: BAD DEKATRON SELLER "fruwlo" (Irina Bashkevich) on eBay

[Chris Stalin]

Matthew,

Do you mind sharing who you bought the geiger counter from?
I was just about the go ahead and grab one for a geiger counter project. 
SBM20 or maybe STS6.

As for Jon, Keep nagging that Russian joker. Squeaky wheel gets the grease,
Counter pressure her, Sympathy goes a long way and ensure her this is just 
a mistake, Then indicate you wish to continue to do business so please 
rectify this immediately and thus you can continue to use her. Recite some 
of her auctions like you really want to do business and use her 
again As a shooting target with your Russian PPSH41 - LOL 

Take care

On Friday, November 15, 2013 1:29:22 PM UTC-7, Matthew Smith wrote:
>
> Quoth Chris Stalin at 16/11/13 06:10... 
>
> > She has 99% feedback, Insist she gives you a refund or resend you some 
> > more goodies. No harm in trying! 
>
> Yup, always ask. 
>
> I recently bought a Geiger counter from Russia. Arrived not working. 
> Discovered the GM tubes were missing from the probe. Contacted the 
> vendor asking for tubes as the simplest way to get it working. Entire 
> new unit rocked up, no questions asked. Was dead impressed. 
>
> [I believe the tube had been salvaged due to the unit being faulty - 
> voltage regulator tube dead. Replaced that, new tubes in probe, now have 
> two working units.] 
>
> And for the lovers of odd tubes, those old Russian Geigers have two GM 
> tubes, two thyratrons, plus the voltage regulator tube a piece. (And all 
> parts readily and cheaply available.) 
>
> -- 
> Matthew Smith 
>
> Business: http://www.smiffytech.com 
> Blog: http://www.smiffysplace.com 
> Linkedin: http://www.linkedin.com/in/smiffy 
> Flickr:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/msmiffy 
> Twitter:  http://twitter.com/smiffy 
>
> ABN 16 391 203 815 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: BAD DEKATRON SELLER "fruwlo" (Irina Bashkevich) on eBay

[Chris Stalin]

Jon,

She has 99% feedback, Insist she gives you a refund or resend you some more 
goodies. No harm in trying!

Let us know!


On Friday, November 15, 2013 12:19:16 PM UTC-7, Jon D. wrote:
>
> I just thought I would warn people about a BAD SELLER for dekatrons I ran 
> across on eBay from Russia recently.  The transaction was for four (4) OG-3 
> dekatrons for $40.35, shipping included.  I had previous Russian 
> transactions take over a month, but this one never showed.  So I filed a 
> case with eBay and guess what -- they guarantee nothing after 30 days (my 
> bad for not realizing that).  Then after 60 days they clean the purchase 
> list so you cannot even post negative feedback.  And the idiots on the help 
> line are...well, helpless top do anything.  I asked them to place that 
> purchase back on the purchase list for negative feedback and "Oh, we cannot 
> do anything about that."
>  
> I had opened a case (which was when I found out eBay wasn't liable for 
> anything), and the seller responded to eBay and said she (he) would refund 
> the amount to Paypal since "it must be lost in the mail".  No response to 
> my email...nothing.  And eBay won't do a thing either.
>  
>  
> Here is the information I gathered on this individual:
>  
> Seller Name:  fruwlo who shows on my Paypal account as Bashkevich Irina (I 
> suspect the first name is Irina)
> Email address:  irv...@gmail.com .
> PAYPAL Name:  *IRVI85"
> Item #:  271273419962
> Location:  Central, Russian Federation
>  
>  
> So another "buyer beware" for Russia (and for eBay).  I'm out $40.35 now 
> (at least it wasn't for a large sum).  Probably no orders from Russia ever 
> again.
>  
> Jon
>  
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: BAD DEKATRON SELLER "fruwlo" (Irina Bashkevich) on eBay

[Chris Stalin]

Jon,

Truly sorry about this.
I had tome NE3 bulbs take 90 days from Russian, I gave up and demanded my 
refund after 25 days. I was lucky. They eventually arrived and they were 
all used and abused, Far from the NOS bulbs I bought.
I refuse to buy from Russia now. I stick to Ukraine and Bulgaria. Or my 
preferred Hungary or Romania/Moldova

Shame ebay is not wiling to do any thing, Confused and mad is the only 
things that comes to my mind!
I bought 2 OG4 dekatrons, If they arrive and work I will throw you one, As 
I have use for only 1.

Take care.

On Friday, November 15, 2013 12:19:16 PM UTC-7, Jon D. wrote:
>
> I just thought I would warn people about a BAD SELLER for dekatrons I ran 
> across on eBay from Russia recently.  The transaction was for four (4) OG-3 
> dekatrons for $40.35, shipping included.  I had previous Russian 
> transactions take over a month, but this one never showed.  So I filed a 
> case with eBay and guess what -- they guarantee nothing after 30 days (my 
> bad for not realizing that).  Then after 60 days they clean the purchase 
> list so you cannot even post negative feedback.  And the idiots on the help 
> line are...well, helpless top do anything.  I asked them to place that 
> purchase back on the purchase list for negative feedback and "Oh, we cannot 
> do anything about that."
>  
> I had opened a case (which was when I found out eBay wasn't liable for 
> anything), and the seller responded to eBay and said she (he) would refund 
> the amount to Paypal since "it must be lost in the mail".  No response to 
> my email...nothing.  And eBay won't do a thing either.
>  
>  
> Here is the information I gathered on this individual:
>  
> Seller Name:  fruwlo who shows on my Paypal account as Bashkevich Irina (I 
> suspect the first name is Irina)
> Email address:  irv...@gmail.com .
> PAYPAL Name:  *IRVI85"
> Item #:  271273419962
> Location:  Central, Russian Federation
>  
>  
> So another "buyer beware" for Russia (and for eBay).  I'm out $40.35 now 
> (at least it wasn't for a large sum).  Probably no orders from Russia ever 
> again.
>  
> Jon
>  
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Threeneurons charge pump question!

[Chris Stalin]

Hi John,

Wonderful reply. I really appreciate the link and the explanation.
I now understand why Michael mentioned his method uses simple parts, In 
comparison to JT HVPS - I haven't a clue where I can source 4700pf 3kv 
ceramic capacitors hah!
Is that last 3kv ceramic to smooth things out?

In some respects the 4093 derived pulse and cheap parts almost beats 
playing with slightly harder to find parts using the AC pulse, And trying 
to solder to the tiny foot print of the HVPS Rather interesting.

Is the inductor choice critical in terms of current or would a simple axial 
lead inductor work?
Does one adjust the voltage resistor to get 200V DC output from the HVPS 
and then add the 100Kohm preload or what is meant by preload?
Would 1N49378 diode suffice?
"For doubler DNI C3 and bypass CR3" - Is that electrical engineer terms for 
omit C3 and CR3(Diode)? lol
As for AC out routing comment, How far did he anticipate a person should or 
would place their connections in relation to the HVPS it self?

More questions then I came in with originally, Always some thing new!
Thanks again John.


 


On Friday, November 15, 2013 11:37:01 AM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote:
>
> > You said Taylor has a tripler for his HVPS, I tried searching but have 
> to yet to come acorss it. DO you have any links or literature so I ca skip 
> the switching portion of the schematic and just go right to the tripler for 
> ease of use with my dekatron. 
>
> Yeah, the link I posted showing the AC output also shows how to connect up 
> a tripler: 
>
> http://ppl.ug/IEd55TCltCo/ 
>
> > Nice to know the selection of rectifiers that cna be used. 
>
> Yeah, jt's power supply operates at a high frequency (so it can be 
> compact), so a tripler for it should use fast diodes.  Mike's chopper 
> circuit (as he pointed out) is lower frequency and can work with ordinary 
> diodes.  The tradeoff is that, with the lower frequency, you'd need larger 
> capacitors to get the same ripple.  Happily, dekatrons don't draw much 
> current at all, and are fairly forgiving of ripple, so this isn't a big 
> deal.  For reference, Mike's circuit uses 1µf capacitors, and jt's circuit 
> uses 0.1µf units. 
>
> > With component prices so cheap these days, Shouldn't be much of a 
> headache locating what you need. 
>
> True enough, I appreciate being able to source parts quickly, easily, and 
> cheaply. 
>
> - John 
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Threeneurons charge pump question!

[Chris Stalin]

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.

I now understand the pulses needed for the charge pump. Makes sense as you 
didn't have one to tap into.
You said Taylor has a tripler for his HVPS, I tried searching but have to 
yet to come across it. Do you have any links or literature so I can skip 
the switching portion of the schematic and just go right to the tripler for 
ease of use with my dekatron.

Nice to know the selection of rectifiers that can be used. With component 
prices so cheap these days, Shouldn't be much of a headache locating what 
you need.

Thanks again for your time!

On Friday, November 15, 2013 11:11:17 AM UTC-7, threeneurons wrote:
>
> I released the nixie clock kit, long before Taylor made his own tripler. 
> If you look at the charge pump schematic, the tail end of it, is a tripler. 
> The 4093 stage, and the associated transistors, are there to create a high 
> voltage pulse train. If you can tap on the pulses generated, directly from 
> the switching supply, you don't need this additional circuitry. But with 
> most HV supplies, available at that time, only DC is brought out.
>
> A doubler. or tripler, will NOT work on DC. It needs a pulse train, or 
> some time varying signal, like household AC.
>
> One final note. The pulse train, on the clock kit's charge pump, is a 
> relatively high duty cycle (>30%), and a relatively low frequency (600 to 
> 1KHz). This means simple crappy low speed rectifiers, like the 1N4007 can 
> be used. Ultra fast rectifiers (ie UF4007, MUR160, ...) are not required.
>
> On Friday, November 15, 2013 9:36:01 AM UTC-8, Chris Stalin wrote:
>>
>> Hey fellas,
>>
>> Doing lots of lurking and reading, Ton of awesome info and intellect in 
>> here!
>>
>> With my IN8 nixie clock nearly done as well as some IN16 clocks complete 
>> I think its time to venture into dekatrons.
>> I bought a matched pair of metal base OG4 dekatrons the other day, Wile 
>> they are on their way I wanted to ask a question regarding M-Mooreess 
>> charge pump.
>> http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/nixie6c_sch.gif
>>
>> I am using a horizontal taylor edge HVPS - BTW John and all his work is 
>> amazing, Not to mention unlimited support.
>> With my resister set for 200V output  Why does Michael use a charge 
>> pump with a 4093 and not just a regular voltage doubler or tripler? What 
>> are the advantages of pumping the voltage up using the charge pump as 
>> apposed to the regular doubler or tripler?
>>
>> I think I should read up a bit on them lol.
>>
>> Thanks every one.
>>
>>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Threeneurons charge pump question!

[Chris Stalin]

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.

I now understand the pulses needed for the charge pump. Makes sense as you 
didn't have one to tap into.
You said Taylor has a tripler for his HVPS, I tried searching but have to 
yet to come acorss it. DO you have any links or literature so I ca skip the 
switching portion of the schematic and just go right to the tripler for 
ease of use with my dekatron.

Nice to know the selection of rectifiers that cna be used. With component 
prices so cheap these days, Shouldn't be much of a headache locating what 
you need.

Thanks again for your tim!



On Friday, November 15, 2013 11:11:17 AM UTC-7, threeneurons wrote:
>
> I released the nixie clock kit, long before Taylor made his own tripler. 
> If you look at the charge pump schematic, the tail end of it, is a tripler. 
> The 4093 stage, and the associated transistors, are there to create a high 
> voltage pulse train. If you can tap on the pulses generated, directly from 
> the switching supply, you don't need this additional circuitry. But with 
> most HV supplies, available at that time, only DC is brought out.
>
> A doubler. or tripler, will NOT work on DC. It needs a pulse train, or 
> some time varying signal, like household AC.
>
> One final note. The pulse train, on the clock kit's charge pump, is a 
> relatively high duty cycle (>30%), and a relatively low frequency (600 to 
> 1KHz). This means simple crappy low speed rectifiers, like the 1N4007 can 
> be used. Ultra fast rectifiers (ie UF4007, MUR160, ...) are not required.
>
> On Friday, November 15, 2013 9:36:01 AM UTC-8, Chris Stalin wrote:
>>
>> Hey fellas,
>>
>> Doing lots of lurking and reading, Ton of awesome info and intellect in 
>> here!
>>
>> With my IN8 nixie clock nearly done as well as some IN16 clocks complete 
>> I think its time to venture into dekatrons.
>> I bought a matched pair of metal base OG4 dekatrons the other day, Wile 
>> they are on their way I wanted to ask a question regarding M-Mooreess 
>> charge pump.
>> http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/nixie6c_sch.gif
>>
>> I am using a horizontal taylor edge HVPS - BTW John and all his work is 
>> amazing, Not to mention unlimited support.
>> With my resister set for 200V output  Why does Michael use a charge 
>> pump with a 4093 and not just a regular voltage doubler or tripler? What 
>> are the advantages of pumping the voltage up using the charge pump as 
>> apposed to the regular doubler or tripler?
>>
>> I think I should read up a bit on them lol.
>>
>> Thanks every one.
>>
>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: first tube for sale

[Chris Stalin]

I agree 100% Dalibor.

Now when can we expect a steady supply of IN18 tubes? :)

Keep it up !


On Friday, November 15, 2013 10:32:21 AM UTC-7, Dalibor wrote:
>
> Some cash is necessary as I plan to build or buy new equipment (oven, 
> bigger filling station and so..). And also my wife would kick me out 
> of the house if I continue to spend our money on it at current rate 
> ;-) 
>
> Dalibor 
>
> 2013/11/15 Chris Stalin >: 
> > Great work, Time t cash in I guess lol 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Thursday, November 14, 2013 4:31:42 AM UTC-7, Dalibor wrote: 
> >> 
> >> Hello guys, 
> >> 
> >> just for the case You haven't noticed my auction on eBay.. I am 
> >> offering one of the first samples I made when developing a tube for 
> >> the ShanghaiTime clock. 
> >> 
> >> Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271319031721 
> >> 
> >> Sorry for a commercial post, but I think You might be interested! 
> >> 
> >> regards, 
> >> 
> >> -- 
> >> Dalibor Farny 
> >> http://dalibor.farny.cz 
> > 
> > -- 
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups 
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> an 
> > email to neonixie-l+...@googlegroups.com . 
> > To post to this group, send an email to 
> > neoni...@googlegroups.com. 
>
> > To view this discussion on the web, visit 
> > 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/8f0aecbf-26ed-41c7-8125-904f101962ae%40googlegroups.com.
>  
>
> > 
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. 
>
>
>
> -- 
> Dalibor Farny 
> http://dalibor.farny.cz 
>

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[neonixie-l] Threeneurons charge pump question!

[Chris Stalin]

Hey fellas,

Doing lots of lurking and reading, Ton of awesome info and intellect in 
here!

With my IN8 nixie clock nearly done as well as some IN16 clocks complete I 
think its time to venture into dekatrons.
I bought a matched pair of metal base OG4 dekatrons the other day, Wile 
they are on their way I wanted to ask a question regarding M-Mooreess 
charge pump.
http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/nixie6c_sch.gif

I am using a horizontal taylor edge HVPS - BTW John and all his work is 
amazing, Not to mention unlimited support.
With my resister set for 200V output  Why does Michael use a charge 
pump with a 4093 and not just a regular voltage doubler or tripler? What 
are the advantages of pumping the voltage up using the charge pump as 
apposed to the regular doubler or tripler?

I think I should read up a bit on them lol.

Thanks every one.

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[neonixie-l] Re: first tube for sale

[Chris Stalin]

Great work, Time t cash in I guess lol


On Thursday, November 14, 2013 4:31:42 AM UTC-7, Dalibor wrote:
>
> Hello guys, 
>
> just for the case You haven't noticed my auction on eBay.. I am 
> offering one of the first samples I made when developing a tube for 
> the ShanghaiTime clock. 
>
> Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271319031721 
>
> Sorry for a commercial post, but I think You might be interested! 
>
> regards, 
>
> -- 
> Dalibor Farny 
> http://dalibor.farny.cz 
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: New power supply design

[Chris Stalin]

Awesome work John,

Looking forward to the new updated horizontal HVPS.

Take care

On Saturday, August 10, 2013 9:50:57 PM UTC-6, taylorjpt wrote:
>
> Just finished my 50W HVPS design, should be able to push it to 75W at 36V 
> in.
>  150-200V out.
>  5-36VDC in.   
>  200V/0.250A at 24V in.
>  Same form factor as 1364.
>
> This was designed to power my nixie Sudoku project:  91 direct drive 
> IN12Bs (2.5mA/tube) with an IR grid input system.
>
> jt
>
>

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[neonixie-l] Nixie clock ( arduino K155ID1 & 595 Shift regs ) - Plz help

[Chris Stalin]

Hey fellas,

First time posting here, Done quite a bit of lurking. Ton of intellectuals 
here, And a ton of neat ideas and conversations.
I have been picking away at a arduino based nixie clock for a wile now. I 
tumbled upon scotts arduino clock http://scott-bot.com/nixie-bot/ a wile 
back and after scoring some NOS tubes from Moldova thought I would give it 
a go.

I am certainly hardware oriented and the arduino coding is the biggest 
issue I have.
My setup is nearly Identical to the one on Scotts page. Here is an updated 
version of what I am using.
http://www.imageshack.com/scaled/large/854/xuoz.png
6x IN8-2 tubes 6x K155ID1 drivers and 3x 595 shift registers, As well as a 
1307 RTC ( later change to DS3231 )

I know for a fact my tubes drivers and registers work as I pump digits to 
them through a simple arduino code I got online, 0-9 on each tube. So that 
confirms that's okay, RTC also function correctly through the code below 
and verified in serial monitor.

shiftreg code,

//set up the pins for communication with the shift register
int latchPin = 6; // rck
int clockPin = 7; //sck
int dataPin = 5; //ser
int x; //create a counting variable


// create an array that translates decimal numbers into an appropriate byte 
for sending to the shift register
int charTable[] = 
{0,128,64,192,32,160,96,224,16,144,8,136,72,200,40,168,104,232,24,152,4,132,68,196,36,164,100,228,20,148,12,140,76,204,44,
172,108,236,28,156,2,130,66,194,34,162,98,226,
18,146,10,138,74,202,42,170,106,234,26,154,6,134,70,198,38,166,102,230,22,150,14,142,78,206,46,174,110,238,30,158,1,129,
65,193,33,161,97,225,17,145,9,137,73,201,41,169,105,233,25,153};


byte nixies = 255; //initiate the byte to be sent to the shift register and 
set it to blank the nixies

void setup(){
  pinMode(latchPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(dataPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(clockPin, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop(){
  nixies = 255; // create a blank byte
  updateShiftRegister(); // send the blank byte to the shift register
  delay(500);
 

  for (x = 0; x<100; x++){ // count from 0 to 99
nixies = charTable[x]; // translate into a byte to send to the shift 
register

updateShiftRegister(); //send to the shift register
delay(500);
 
  Serial.print("x = ");
  Serial.println(x);
  Serial.print("nixies = ");
  Serial.println(nixies);}
}
  //the process of sending a byte to the shift register
void updateShiftRegister(){
  digitalWrite(latchPin, LOW);
  shiftOut(dataPin, clockPin, LSBFIRST, nixies);
  digitalWrite(latchPin, HIGH);
}



RTC code,
// Date and time functions using a DS1307 RTC connected via I2C and Wire lib

#include 
#include "RTClib.h"

RTC_DS1307 RTC;

void setup () {
Serial.begin(57600);
Wire.begin();
RTC.begin();

  if (! RTC.isrunning()) {
Serial.println("RTC is NOT running!");
// following line sets the RTC to the date & time this sketch was 
compiled
RTC.adjust(DateTime(__DATE__, __TIME__));
  }
}

void loop () {
DateTime now = RTC.now();

Serial.print(now.year(), DEC);
Serial.print('/');
Serial.print(now.month(), DEC);
Serial.print('/');
Serial.print(now.day(), DEC);
Serial.print(' ');
Serial.print(now.hour(), DEC);
Serial.print(':');
Serial.print(now.minute(), DEC);
Serial.print(':');
Serial.print(now.second(), DEC);
Serial.println();

Serial.print(" since midnight 1/1/1970 = ");
Serial.print(now.unixtime());
Serial.print("s = ");
Serial.print(now.unixtime() / 86400L);
Serial.println("d");

// calculate a date which is 7 days and 30 seconds into the future
DateTime future (now.unixtime() + 7 * 86400L + 30);

Serial.print(" now + 7d + 30s: ");
Serial.print(future.year(), DEC);
Serial.print('/');
Serial.print(future.month(), DEC);
Serial.print('/');
Serial.print(future.day(), DEC);
Serial.print(' ');
Serial.print(future.hour(), DEC);
Serial.print(':');
Serial.print(future.minute(), DEC);
Serial.print(':');
Serial.print(future.second(), DEC);
Serial.println();

Serial.println();
delay(1000);
}



So that covers that. My real issues starts when I try and run the code for 
the actual clock.
I get nothing more then 49 49 49 on my tubes.
Is there a way to backwards test my code or remove parts of it to confirm 
one section is the culprit or another?
My software skills are very weak, And if there is an arduino guy out there 
willing to help I would appreciate it.
I have contacted Scott and he is a very helpful fellow, But a busy one too. 
So replies could be days or weeks away.

Code below.

// Nixie-Bot
// Created 2013
// Scott-Bot.com

#include 
#include "RTClib.h"

const int button2Pin = 10;

RTC_DS1307 RTC;
DateTime now;

//Pin connected to RCK of 74HC595
int latchPin = 6;
//Pin connected to SCK of 74HC595
int clockPin = 7;
Pin connected to SER of 74HC595
int dataPin = 5;

int testpattern = 0;
int button2State = 0;

unsigned long SecondCount