[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube making: first glow lamp up and running
Jens- Great! Keep going! Congratulations on getting a good seal and vacuum; very few people get that far- -Dylan On Wednesday, September 26, 2012 2:10:25 PM UTC-7, Jens Boos wrote: > > Hi folks, > > finally I got my first glow lamp working. It is the third try, therefore > I call it "GL-LS-3", short for glow lamp lab sample 3. See two pictures > here: > > http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/gl-ls-3_1.jpg > http://www.jb-electronics.de/tmp/gl-ls-3_2.jpg > > It consists of 9mm soda lime tubing and Dumet wire. The gas filling is > normal air at 9mbar. It ignites nicely at roughly 550V DC. > > I used a simple propane torch for the glass work. Will switch to a > hand-held oxygen-propane torch in a few months though (when I have > enough time and money). > > I will get my needle valve in two weeks or so, then I will be able to do > something with neon. Believe it or not: over two months lead time for a > silly needle valve... Anyway, I hope I will have the tube making content > prepared for my website by then. It is piling up, but there is still > much to do. > > Best regards > Jens > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/RpPKT0tXHmcJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube making: first glow lamp up and running
Hey again John, Just get some little 'seed' beads from the bead store for spacers. If you've got ultrasound, I recommend it- there can be a little refractory sludge in 'em from the production. I made a few 'crackle' tubes using black seed beads and neon about 10 years back...really cool effect. -Dylan On Friday, September 28, 2012 7:09:57 AM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote: > > > it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant to > achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You > will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher > current.. > > While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have different > currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're > more-or-less constant > voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different > current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode > resistors > helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use > current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to > overdrive > the smaller digits slightly. > > That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit > stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some > nixies, > the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this. > > > And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-) > > That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd > choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes. > > However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them > visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I > can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want a > nixie with Böcklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make > my own. > > There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more > rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However, > this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width. > > > Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play > and change things inside.. > > Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most difficult > problem in making nixies. > > > Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics? > > Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard > from someone who's making custom variable > capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter. > > I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit > separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking > of glass and mica as alternatives. > > - John > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/xOPvGP4rlcAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] The 'Nixie' tube I made last summer, and promised I'd share-
Hey John, Thanks! I've been pondering that nitrogen 'afterglow' for awhile now; seems like there's some fanstastic potential there. (Esp. in the realm of cold-cathode tubes, eh?) Been saving up for some D2, have to put 99.99% nitrogen on the shopping list... Cheers- On Saturday, September 29, 2012 7:33:23 AM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote: > > >I'm at www.incandescentsculpture.com- > >Under 'Vacuum Tubes" I've got a little writeup, and video of what I'm > calling the "Fuxie" > > That is a thing of beauty. It would look really striking with a nitrogen > fill, I imagine. > > I've admired your sculptures for quite a while. When I get my own place > with enough > room, I'm hoping to buy one. > > - John > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/IMZfuEKrQEoJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] The 'Nixie' tube I made last summer, and promised I'd share-
Hey Howdy everyone- I finally updated my webpage; frankly, my very least favorite thing to do in the summer... I'm at www.incandescentsculpture.com- Under 'Vacuum Tubes" I've got a little writeup, and video of what I'm calling the "Fuxie" Those offended by Anglo-Saxon swearing should probably skip it... The Tesla Bulb section may also be of interest to some of you- I've been puttering around with that for a few years, too. Cheers!- -Dylan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/3HUq8K1r8fIJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: nixie makers: getters
Hey Dalibor and others- I don't feel that these are the right getters for nixie tubes. The literature lists them as thermally active- they only absorb if you put them somewhere hot. Many styles of getters are made this way; most tubes do run quite hot, beacuse of the filaments.. There isn't anywhere in a nixie tube that is constantly 100C-200C. (That's part of the magic of nixies, of course) You really want some flashed barium getters; they absorb gasses at any temperature. -Dylan www.dylankehderoelofs.com On Monday, June 25, 2012 11:21:36 AM UTC-7, Dalibor wrote: > > Hello guys, > > I've got an offer on getters, tech info attached.. the price is approx. > 5pcs/1 eur. Is anyone interested in it? I will place an order in several > weeks, I may send some pieces sealed in argon filled tube.. > > -- > Dalibor Farny > http://dalibor.farny.cz > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/VDpd_HcdKewJ. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Soda lime - small success
Hey Guys- You should check out this- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDvF89Bh27Y At the 20min 30sec mark, some answers will be revealed- -Dylan On Sunday, June 17, 2012 3:11:48 PM UTC-7, Jens Boos wrote: > > Hi, > > good work on the small glow lamps! What kind of burner do you use? > > Jens > > Nice information about making stems are in the Roth's book noticed > recently here.. "Vacuum sealing techniques", for those interested in this > book, let me know outside, I will post link.. > > I have already got a small test mold made from graphite, 13-pin.. My > original intention was to arrange some kind of furnace in microwave oven > and melt the glass directly in the mold with dumet wires inside.. But no > luck yet, I am able to heat a piece of the carbide to 1000C, but the power > is to small to heat all the mold with glass. Another thing is, that at this > temperature, the graphite reacts with oxygen producing CO2 and degrades.. I > think 10 cycles is maximum for one mold. The furnace with controlled > atmosphere (nitrogen, argon, CO2 ..) would be the best.. I am going to ask > my friend to test that process in their lab, he has a special tubular > furnace able to go above 2000C ;-) > > I am preparing some short blogpost about my fail ;-) I will publish it > tonight. Except that, I had also some small success, sealed argon tubes.. > that post is already done: > > http://dalibor.farny.cz > > Dalibor > > 2012/6/17 Dalibor Farný > >> Hi John, >> >> are You sure that only gravity is enough for the glass to flow to the >> mold? At what temperatures? I tried 800C and no luck.. >> >> Dalibor >> >> >> 2012/6/17 John Rehwinkel >> >>> > How exactly would you proceed making - say - 13 pin tube bases? You >>> need a lot of temperature for that and precisely formed tools. So far this >>> is nothing I can see myself doing in the near future. I know a person who >>> makes his own (borosilicate glass) sockets, I might be able to adopt the >>> principle some day. >>> >>> The tool part isn't too tough, just carve it out of graphite with pin >>> recesses. CNC machining would be the way I'd go, but back in the day it >>> was done by reading scales on handwheels, and obviously it could still >>> be done that way. Once you have your graphite mold/pin holder, >>> get some nice 3-part pins and lead glass tubing of an appropriate >>> diameter. Lead glass is the way to go here - it liquifies enough to >>> gravity flow into molds like this. Slice off rings that have sufficient >>> glass to make your bases, drop pins into your mold, put the glass ring >>> around them, and melt the whole shebang. For extra niceness, you can >>> have an upper mold half that forms little mounds of glass over >>> the pins themselves and flattens the rest of the base into a disc. Let >>> it cool, and violà! The first one will be a real bear, as you have to >>> make the molds determine the amount of glass, temperature to use, etc. >>> But once you have the molds made and the procedure down, >>> you can knock out additional bases fairly easily. >>> >>> - John >>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>> To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. >>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>> neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >>> For more options, visit this group at >>> http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> Dalibor Farny >> http://dalibor.farny.cz >> >> >> > > > -- > Dalibor Farny > http://dalibor.farny.cz > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. > > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/8DXmsRIrEfMJ. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: OT: fantastic mercury arc rectifier to get
I, too have messaged the 'seller' - Notice the blue glow in the picture that indicates the rectifier is under load at the time of the photo, which wikipedia has as 2005. We should report this before it ends, eh? -Dylan Kehde Roelofs www.dylankehderoelofs.com On Thursday, June 14, 2012 12:54:08 PM UTC-7, marcin wrote: > > Sorry for off topic. My ebay filters fished out this beautiful baby: > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercury-Arc-rectifier?item=110896469247 > What a fantastic tube! This is the first time I can see so large one to be > offered for sale. Even if I went to pick it up myself I am sure Norwegian > customs wouldn't let me beck in with it. I hate it. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/_2tGwx01jrkJ. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Vacuum Handbook
HOwdy Gents- I could use a copy of that book, too. (And haven't got Usenet) I've got a few old glassblowing books as .pdf's I'll post soon They've got some basic info on glass-to-metal sealing, and some glass tricks. Thanks- -Dylan On Monday, June 11, 2012 7:11:53 AM UTC-7, NeonJohn wrote: > > > > On 06/11/2012 04:43 AM, Dalibor Farny wrote: > > Hello friends, > > > > I am looking for the book from A. Roth called Vacuum sealing > > techniques. I found links to pdf on net, but it doesnt work.. But > > that means it should exists in pdf and it might have happen someone > > had already downloaded it.. > > It's on Usenet. You can get the NZB here > > > http://www.nzbclub.com/nzb_view/12998265/ASST_NEW_MTLS_04_APR_2011_A_Vacuum_Sealing_Techniques_A_Roth_Pergamon_WW > > > IF you don't have Usenet, contact me off-line. > > John > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/K4PCzUfyqLwJ. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: tube machinery etc sale
Hey John- I can't seem to find anything on ebay- Got a link to that ,please? -Thanks- -Dylan On Feb 5, 2:48 pm, "JohnK" wrote: > Saw this posted by Seth on TCA Group:- > > "Aspen Pittman is selling off machine tools, and vacuum tube parts on eBay. > These were from the Owensboro GE plant. They include grid forming machines, > sealers, evacuation pumps, etc. Price (bidding) starts at $30K for all? Most > of the NOS USA parts are for 6L6 and 6CA7 tubes. I suppose I could try > forwarding the email to anyone interested. There is also a youtube video > showing some of the equipment in use. It is not listed, so one will need to > use a link to see it." > > John K -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Homemade Nixie tubes project: Help with vacuum technology needed
Hey Jens- The 'bakeout' cycle of processing any glass vacuum device is critical for long life- Every surface, and every material in the bulb has a film of water vapour on it, as well as anything else you left there with your fingers. The water has terrible effects on any filament, and even a very minute amount will ruin a bulb. Water vapour is also liberated from the glass itself during heating, and during 'tip-off', when you make your final seal... Getters will solve this problem, but only to a certain extent. You'll notice in the video that both of the induction treatments are very particular in their location- If you heat the feed-through wires, either with the induction, or by heating what they are attached to, they will crack the glass and ruin your vacuum. The induction must be focused only to parts that can withstand heat. Notice also, that an induction heating is required even after the bakeout- Any nixies will eventually need to go through all of this to have long lives. You sound like you're just about ready to light things up! Very exciting! ( I've been a scientific glassblower for 21 years, by the way...) -Dylan On Jan 17, 12:55 am, jb-electronics wrote: > Hi John, > > thanks for your links, they all look interesting. > > Another idea for the inductive heater: There are so many inductive hot > plates around that work exactly this way. Couldn't I use one of these? > > Jens -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Homemade Nixie tubes project: Help with vacuum technology needed
Howdy Jens- If you've got any kind of spark coil, you don't need a vacuum gauge. The color of the discharge in the gas remaining in the tube will tell you the vacuum. You'll really need a 2-stage pump to attain enough vacuum (i've been using an old Welch for 15 years).. Once the pump has gotten to the maximum ( about .01 torr) , there will be no glow in the tube at all- just a vague blue from the glass. This is called 'blackout'- anything else ( a higher pressure) is just not enough. I've made 95% of my bulbs and tubes without any kind of vacuum gauge, except this method. A manometer with the oil from your vacuum pump will work fine- you won't need mercury. (except to add to the nixies later to prevent sputtering) To really get the tubes to last 10,000 hours or more, you'll need to 'bake' them. That is, to run your vacuum manifold partially under/ into a kiln.. This video will give you some ideas/info. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n4WVRKkmww Cheers- -Dylan On Jan 14, 3:23 am, jb-electronics wrote: > Hi folks, > > as you know, I am currently trying to build Nixie tubes. I am making > some progress, but I still need to figure out the vacuum part. Here is > where I am so far: > > I use a reasonably priced (100EUR) 1-stage rotary vane pump that has a > stated final pressure of 0.05mbar. Realistically, let's say it will end > up at 1mbar. Now I have a three-way valve where one end is connected to > the vacuum pump and a vacuum meter, the other one to my glass bulb (i.e. > the Nixie tube in sp ), and the third to my Penning mixture (2% Ar in > Ne, 1bar). > > I evacuate the bulb as far as possible (to about 1mbar I guess) and then > wash it with my Penning mixture for some time (i.e. leave the vacuum > pump running while feeding my Penning mixture to the bulb. After some > time (what time exactly? 10s or 1 minute?) I disconnect the vacuum pump > and feed some more Penning mixture to the glass bulb until the final > pressure of about 30 Torr (i.e. 40mbar) is reached. > > Then I heat the glass bulb at the pump port and disconnect it from the > system. > > - > > So those are my first ideas, my questions are: > > 1) What could I use as a vacuum gauge? I need to have a resolution of > about .1mbar, and a range of 1bar down to 1mbar or so. Does anyone know > where to buy those at a reasonable price? > > 2) The vacuum pump I am considering to purchase is a pump that is used > in refrigeration technique. Is it essential to use a 2-stage pump? I > have no experiences in this area, that is why I ask. I just assume that > with washing the tube I can make up for some of it. > > 3) Any comments? Suggestions? > > Thanks for your time, > and may the glow be with you, > Jens -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: 3000 tubes per year?
Hey All, I agree- a big pinch seal with 10 wires, and 2 'dead' wires for supports would be easiest. Pinch seals of that size are also tricky- the tube must be carefully pre-shaped for the seal; just heating the open end of a round tube causes it to slump down the middle as the glass thickens up (under it's own surface tension...) As soon as I get some thinner tungsten pins, I'll try it out- The ones I have right now are too thick to bundle 10 together... You could certainly use some little beads for supports- you'd want to clean 'em in ultrasound to make sure there were no traces of the manufacturing clay/binder on the inside... You can't really put any chips or circuit boards inside tubes... Things have to be very pure, and able to withstand lots of heat. The two books I refer to constantly for info are :Materials and Techniques for Electron tubes, by Walter Kohl, and -Materials and Processes of Electron Devices, by Max Knoll. If you can find them, these two old manuals will teach you everything you could ever want to know about vacuum tube manufacture... Google groups doesn't seem to have image hosting, or archives -I'll just host my pix somewhere soon ,and link 'em up here. Cheers- -Dylan On Jul 8, 3:29 pm, jb-electronics wrote: > Hi folks, > > I especially like the internal construction of this lab sample, it does > not look terribly complicated (if I can tell, which I think I can't): > > http://www.jb-electronics.de/html/elektronik/nixies/n_rd125.htm > > Jens > > Am 08.07.2011 23:34, schrieb xdugef: > > > I had an idea the other day which may not be possible because of the > > heat involved in the making of a nixie or because of the conditions > > inside the tube once it's filled with gas but it were possible to > > include an ic inside the tube then you would beable to reduce the > > number external connections. > > > On 8 July, 14:27, David Forbes wrote: > >> On 7/8/2011 2:20 PM, James wrote: > > >>> How about a pinch seal with an inline row of wires? I've only ever > >>> made those with two wires, but I don't see why it would be that much > >>> more difficult to put 10+ wires through with an appropriate jig. > >>> Induction heating is easy, I built one of those a while back that I > >>> use for other things. As for the ceramic spacers, would glass work? I > >>> know you can get small glass craft beads, I can't say I've ever looked > >>> into it though. The glassblowing is the hard part, I can do a > >>> reasonable job of splicing and bending neon tube but even after much > >>> practice it's very difficult to get good consistent results. > >> The B5870 tube would be a good starting point for a design using a pinch > >> seal. > >> It has a zig-zag row of wires in the header, and the bottom of each digit > >> is > >> spot-welded to its wire, with no spacers or connecting wires needed. There > >> is a > >> single ceramic block at the top to hold the digits in place. > > >> After all, if you're trying to make it yourself, simplicity is valuable. > > >> -- > >> David Forbes, Tucson, AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: 3000 tubes per year?
Gentlemen- My name is Dylan Kehde Roelofs; I've been a scientific glassblower for 20 years, and I believe I can answer a few of your questions.. First, check out my website at www.incandescentsculpture.com - I haven't updated it for a few years, or put any of my new vacuum tubes on it, but I believe it will establish my credentials. Since the update, I've made tubes, flasks and bulbs for Columbia pictures, the Discovery channel, and the History channel... I've also got some stuff premiering at a show in Dubai- if any of you happen to be over there in October. (http:// www.indexexhibition.com/page.cfm/link=143) I was approached by a nixie collector about 6 years ago, in the old Yahoo nixie group , who wanted me to make some 200mm tall tubes. I looked into the problem and the literature, and decided that for an order of 6 tubes (which is what he specified) , it wouldn't be worth it at all. Tooling up an entire factory to make 10,000's of tubes is a pipe dream, even if the market exists. The break-even point for a mostly automated factory is far, far higher than the nixie market. Watch the videos on Youtube from the Mullard factory of the 30's - There's just no way to tool up like that. This being said- It is quite possible to make beautiful nixies by hand. The cathodes are all nickel- anything else would be eaten by the mercury. The pressure is about 10-15 torr of Penning mixture (Neon with a little argon in it). A bakeout at 400 C , for an hour or two should be enough to off-gas the interior parts. Induction heaters were usually used to skip this step... You could probably skip the mercury by introducing a higher pressure of xenon gas, and make white nixies, instead of orange.. (the Xe is so large in atomic terms that sputtering is minimized- look at halogen bulbs... The halogens also play a part in the water cycle of the filament, buy we don't have to worry about that in Cold Cathode land...) You'd need to get some thin nickel sheet, and have the numerals cut on a water jet. You'd need to get some high alumina ceramic and make those little washers, if you couldn't find them online. You'd need to get a custom feed-through pin made, with the right lengths and combinations of metals and glasses. You'd need a pile of little wires to attach pins to digits. The blackened 'cage' that sits behind the digits would take some expensive stamping and engineering- but might easily be eliminated by a coating applied to the outside rear of the tube. It might be cool for the end user to have a choice in that arena. Just the main pins are required to hold the digits and anode... The hardest part, by far , is the glassblowing. That glass-to-metal seal with 14-16 pins in it would be quite tricky, and requires 3 different glasses for evening out the strains. (I work in Pyrex, not soda-lime glass. The seals on nixies were made of a soft glass compatible with the pins) Even at the factories, where everything was dialed in perfectly (torch mass-flow controllers, annealing ovens, belt timing) , the seals needed to be inspected by hand for cracking... The system of strains set up by that many pins is very complex and touchy. Those Germans (and Chinese) factories making newer power triodes have it easy- I can make 4 and 5 pin seals all day long, and not loose one... Sadly- this factor will always prevent untrained efforts... Tack welding the little anode cage, and interior wiring would be quite tedious, but not very difficult. As with any new venture, the first tube would require more time than the next 100. Sourcing everything would take many calls and emails... For an end-view tube of 80-100mm or so, I can't imagine the parts and glass costing less than $30, frankly. (Just the last high purity nickel sheet I bought for vacuum tube anodes was nearly $10, and it was only 6x6 inches) Obviously, having thousands of each part made would lower this cost- most of the parts would have to made in that volume anyhow; my glass- to-metal sealing company isn't even interested in orders under 5000 parts (at about 25 cents per part..). Therefore, just the pins through the glass would total about $3 per tube. Corners can certainly be cut, but every decimal place of impurity in the materials equates to diminished tube life. The heart of the matter is this: The labour would be the true cost- each tube would probably take hours, all told. Size is barely a factor here, except in part costs- it would take as long to assemble an IN-18 replica as it would to make a much larger end-view tube. I make lightbulbs as my labour of love, and it took me untold hundreds of hours of R+D to get to the point I could create functional, new forms. The market for lighting is much, much larger than for nixies, obviously, and business is still rather slow for me. I can't really imagine being able to make a set of 6 tubes (for a clock) for under $200-300 a tube, and at that price, i'm not sure the even the world-wide ma
