Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[gregebert]

NICE!  You will find this very useful for testing and characterizing nixie 
tubes.

For my more-valuable tubes (RZ568m and b7971), I collect current-voltage 
data for each numeral (or segment) and plot on a graph. From there, I can 
see if there is consistency across tubes, which is an indicator of quality. 
Anything inconsistent is an indication of a quality issue, or possibly 
end-of-life.

On Saturday, August 19, 2023 at 5:23:42 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:

> Thanks for your help, 
> I finished my HV power supply...
> [image: 20230819_125349.jpg]
>
> From right to left, top to bottom:
>
> Voltage Output of the DC-DC converter
> Ajustment of the DC-DC output
> Input 8-32V (Usually Set on 12V)
>
> AMeter Output
> 50K Adj. + 4.7k Resistor (2w each)
>
> Voltage Output to the tubes
> output (up to 300V DC)
>
> So far, all is working just fine, tested up to 250V.
> I may add a shunt or a change the AMeter if needed.
>
> Regards,
>
> Benoit.
> Le mardi 2 mai 2023 à 23:17:56 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :
>
>> I've used a few different flavors of these cheap digital meters 
>> (0-500VDC, 120VAC, 300VDC) and have not had any problemsyet.  Most of 
>> them are self-powered, which is handy because it doesn't require a separate 
>> power supply, though risky because they do create a potential source for a 
>> short. Everything I build has fuses, so even if one of these things 
>> shorted-out, it would just blow a fuse. All but one of them are in metal 
>> cases, so if they caught fire, it would be contained.
>>
>> The most dangerous line-powered items I know of are LED bulbs; even worse 
>> than CFLs due to their construction. I've replaced several on the verge of 
>> failing, or already failed, that have obvious signs of overheating or will 
>> actually still hot in the socket. Hnow I gotta go burn one to see 
>> if the plastic is self-extinguishing. I'm pretty sure those cheap meters 
>> will burn on their own once ignited, but I'm not sure I want to destroy one 
>> in the name of science.unless I can find a *really* cheap one.
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 2, 2023 at 11:54:36 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> I am a bit afraid of all those inexpensive displays made in PRC, the 
>>> seller often doesn't know what he is selling, the specs are wrong or 
>>> trunked, and I don't know their behavior with 300V DC or more...
>>>
>>> Well, I ran a few of my IN-1, I had to run a couple of them at 4mA 180V 
>>> and the black marks disappears completely after 4h. I can reduce to 150V 
>>> 2mA and still have a good glow.
>>> those tubes are very nice with the "normal" 5, much better than the 
>>> IN-4. 
>>> should be nice on a 6 digit clock with a decatron for tenths of a second.
>>>
>>> Le mercredi 26 avril 2023 à 00:37:49 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :
>>>
 Looks good. I've gotten very fond of the inexpensive digital meters on 
 Ebay and started putting them in many of my projects.

 On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 10:16:21 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:

> [image: 20230425_170205.jpg]
> Here is  the first try for my testing devices.
> My HT power device, with the voltage regulated with the rheostat. next 
> step will be the rheostat for the output power and placing the voltmeter 
> after the limitation resistors and an on/off switch.
> The box is just to have an idea of the size.  may be I will print 
> something or find a more accurate box... ;-)
> I will add a 5V USB power supply
>
> on the left an arduino uno with a hat and a zif for testing K155id1 
> with a 12 pin SIL connector for a nixie tube, here a support for IN-1.
> I made one for IN-12, I am making one for IN-2 and one other for IN-4.
>
> on top of the box, a 12 position manual switch. I will use a 
> Protoboard for better contacts.
>
> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:31:34 UTC+2, Benoit Tourret a écrit :
>
>> Thanks Terry.
>>
>> this also will help me a lot.
>> My electronic courses are too far to be clear in my mind...
>>
>> When I read gregebert's thread, I wanted to write the complete 
>> equation to calculate the resistor for a wanted current. but the result 
>> was 
>> the opposite of the reality... 
>> so I decided to use a potentiometer and a galva...
>> but you gave me the result !!!
>> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:13:14 UTC+2, Mac Doktor a écrit :
>>
>>> Reading this thread has begun to make my eyes glaze over. I find the 
>>> following diagram to be helpful for understanding some of what's going 
>>> on. 
>>> Perhaps it will add some clarity to the discussion. This in from Marcin 
>>> Saj's github and specifically concerns his PRO Nixie Tester:
>>>
>>> [image: pro-nixie-tester-how-to-use-02.jpg]
>>> It took a while for me to completely understand how all of this 
>>> works and this diagram was a huge help. I doubt that I would have 
>>> worked it 
>>> clearly 

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[gregebert]

I've used a few different flavors of these cheap digital meters (0-500VDC, 
120VAC, 300VDC) and have not had any problemsyet.  Most of them are 
self-powered, which is handy because it doesn't require a separate power 
supply, though risky because they do create a potential source for a short. 
Everything I build has fuses, so even if one of these things shorted-out, 
it would just blow a fuse. All but one of them are in metal cases, so if 
they caught fire, it would be contained.

The most dangerous line-powered items I know of are LED bulbs; even worse 
than CFLs due to their construction. I've replaced several on the verge of 
failing, or already failed, that have obvious signs of overheating or will 
actually still hot in the socket. Hnow I gotta go burn one to see 
if the plastic is self-extinguishing. I'm pretty sure those cheap meters 
will burn on their own once ignited, but I'm not sure I want to destroy one 
in the name of science.unless I can find a *really* cheap one.

On Tuesday, May 2, 2023 at 11:54:36 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:

> I am a bit afraid of all those inexpensive displays made in PRC, the 
> seller often doesn't know what he is selling, the specs are wrong or 
> trunked, and I don't know their behavior with 300V DC or more...
>
> Well, I ran a few of my IN-1, I had to run a couple of them at 4mA 180V 
> and the black marks disappears completely after 4h. I can reduce to 150V 
> 2mA and still have a good glow.
> those tubes are very nice with the "normal" 5, much better than the IN-4. 
> should be nice on a 6 digit clock with a decatron for tenths of a second.
>
> Le mercredi 26 avril 2023 à 00:37:49 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :
>
>> Looks good. I've gotten very fond of the inexpensive digital meters on 
>> Ebay and started putting them in many of my projects.
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 10:16:21 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> [image: 20230425_170205.jpg]
>>> Here is  the first try for my testing devices.
>>> My HT power device, with the voltage regulated with the rheostat. next 
>>> step will be the rheostat for the output power and placing the voltmeter 
>>> after the limitation resistors and an on/off switch.
>>> The box is just to have an idea of the size.  may be I will print 
>>> something or find a more accurate box... ;-)
>>> I will add a 5V USB power supply
>>>
>>> on the left an arduino uno with a hat and a zif for testing K155id1 with 
>>> a 12 pin SIL connector for a nixie tube, here a support for IN-1.
>>> I made one for IN-12, I am making one for IN-2 and one other for IN-4.
>>>
>>> on top of the box, a 12 position manual switch. I will use a Protoboard 
>>> for better contacts.
>>>
>>> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:31:34 UTC+2, Benoit Tourret a écrit :
>>>
 Thanks Terry.

 this also will help me a lot.
 My electronic courses are too far to be clear in my mind...

 When I read gregebert's thread, I wanted to write the complete 
 equation to calculate the resistor for a wanted current. but the result 
 was 
 the opposite of the reality... 
 so I decided to use a potentiometer and a galva...
 but you gave me the result !!!
 Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:13:14 UTC+2, Mac Doktor a écrit :

> Reading this thread has begun to make my eyes glaze over. I find the 
> following diagram to be helpful for understanding some of what's going 
> on. 
> Perhaps it will add some clarity to the discussion. This in from Marcin 
> Saj's github and specifically concerns his PRO Nixie Tester:
>
> [image: pro-nixie-tester-how-to-use-02.jpg]
> It took a while for me to completely understand how all of this works 
> and this diagram was a huge help. I doubt that I would have worked it 
> clearly otherwise. For the record I haven't gotten around to reading the 
> JB 
> Dance book—yet.
>
> Full info here:
>
> https://github.com/marcinsaj/Universal-PRO-Nixie-Tester-and-Healer
>
>
> Right now I'm using the PRO Nixie Tester with three DMMs but I've 
> purchased some DPMs for a compact, dedicated meter bridge. Someday I'll 
> get 
> around to making a panel and wiring them up. And rigging up isolated 
> power 
> supplies for them.
>
>
> On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Moses  wrote:
>
> That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what 
> you would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 
> 200mA capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good.
>
>
> Zaparooney.   x_x
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, *Blade 
> Runner*
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[Benoit Tourret]

I am a bit afraid of all those inexpensive displays made in PRC, the seller 
often doesn't know what he is selling, the specs are wrong or trunked, and 
I don't know their behavior with 300V DC or more...

Well, I ran a few of my IN-1, I had to run a couple of them at 4mA 180V and 
the black marks disappears completely after 4h. I can reduce to 150V 2mA 
and still have a good glow.
those tubes are very nice with the "normal" 5, much better than the IN-4. 
should be nice on a 6 digit clock with a decatron for tenths of a second.

Le mercredi 26 avril 2023 à 00:37:49 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :

> Looks good. I've gotten very fond of the inexpensive digital meters on 
> Ebay and started putting them in many of my projects.
>
> On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 10:16:21 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>
>> [image: 20230425_170205.jpg]
>> Here is  the first try for my testing devices.
>> My HT power device, with the voltage regulated with the rheostat. next 
>> step will be the rheostat for the output power and placing the voltmeter 
>> after the limitation resistors and an on/off switch.
>> The box is just to have an idea of the size.  may be I will print 
>> something or find a more accurate box... ;-)
>> I will add a 5V USB power supply
>>
>> on the left an arduino uno with a hat and a zif for testing K155id1 with 
>> a 12 pin SIL connector for a nixie tube, here a support for IN-1.
>> I made one for IN-12, I am making one for IN-2 and one other for IN-4.
>>
>> on top of the box, a 12 position manual switch. I will use a Protoboard 
>> for better contacts.
>>
>> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:31:34 UTC+2, Benoit Tourret a écrit :
>>
>>> Thanks Terry.
>>>
>>> this also will help me a lot.
>>> My electronic courses are too far to be clear in my mind...
>>>
>>> When I read gregebert's thread, I wanted to write the complete equation 
>>> to calculate the resistor for a wanted current. but the result was the 
>>> opposite of the reality... 
>>> so I decided to use a potentiometer and a galva...
>>> but you gave me the result !!!
>>> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:13:14 UTC+2, Mac Doktor a écrit :
>>>
 Reading this thread has begun to make my eyes glaze over. I find the 
 following diagram to be helpful for understanding some of what's going on. 
 Perhaps it will add some clarity to the discussion. This in from Marcin 
 Saj's github and specifically concerns his PRO Nixie Tester:

 [image: pro-nixie-tester-how-to-use-02.jpg]
 It took a while for me to completely understand how all of this works 
 and this diagram was a huge help. I doubt that I would have worked it 
 clearly otherwise. For the record I haven't gotten around to reading the 
 JB 
 Dance book—yet.

 Full info here:

 https://github.com/marcinsaj/Universal-PRO-Nixie-Tester-and-Healer


 Right now I'm using the PRO Nixie Tester with three DMMs but I've 
 purchased some DPMs for a compact, dedicated meter bridge. Someday I'll 
 get 
 around to making a panel and wiring them up. And rigging up isolated power 
 supplies for them.


 On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Moses  wrote:

 That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what 
 you would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 
 200mA capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good.


 Zaparooney.   x_x


 Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
 "The Mac Doctor"

 https://www.astarcloseup.com

 "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, *Blade 
 Runner*



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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[gregebert]

Looks good. I've gotten very fond of the inexpensive digital meters on Ebay 
and started putting them in many of my projects.

On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 10:16:21 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:

> [image: 20230425_170205.jpg]
> Here is  the first try for my testing devices.
> My HT power device, with the voltage regulated with the rheostat. next 
> step will be the rheostat for the output power and placing the voltmeter 
> after the limitation resistors and an on/off switch.
> The box is just to have an idea of the size.  may be I will print 
> something or find a more accurate box... ;-)
> I will add a 5V USB power supply
>
> on the left an arduino uno with a hat and a zif for testing K155id1 with a 
> 12 pin SIL connector for a nixie tube, here a support for IN-1.
> I made one for IN-12, I am making one for IN-2 and one other for IN-4.
>
> on top of the box, a 12 position manual switch. I will use a Protoboard 
> for better contacts.
>
> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:31:34 UTC+2, Benoit Tourret a écrit :
>
>> Thanks Terry.
>>
>> this also will help me a lot.
>> My electronic courses are too far to be clear in my mind...
>>
>> When I read gregebert's thread, I wanted to write the complete equation 
>> to calculate the resistor for a wanted current. but the result was the 
>> opposite of the reality... 
>> so I decided to use a potentiometer and a galva...
>> but you gave me the result !!!
>> Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:13:14 UTC+2, Mac Doktor a écrit :
>>
>>> Reading this thread has begun to make my eyes glaze over. I find the 
>>> following diagram to be helpful for understanding some of what's going on. 
>>> Perhaps it will add some clarity to the discussion. This in from Marcin 
>>> Saj's github and specifically concerns his PRO Nixie Tester:
>>>
>>> [image: pro-nixie-tester-how-to-use-02.jpg]
>>> It took a while for me to completely understand how all of this works 
>>> and this diagram was a huge help. I doubt that I would have worked it 
>>> clearly otherwise. For the record I haven't gotten around to reading the JB 
>>> Dance book—yet.
>>>
>>> Full info here:
>>>
>>> https://github.com/marcinsaj/Universal-PRO-Nixie-Tester-and-Healer
>>>
>>>
>>> Right now I'm using the PRO Nixie Tester with three DMMs but I've 
>>> purchased some DPMs for a compact, dedicated meter bridge. Someday I'll get 
>>> around to making a panel and wiring them up. And rigging up isolated power 
>>> supplies for them.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Moses  wrote:
>>>
>>> That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what 
>>> you would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 
>>> 200mA capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good.
>>>
>>>
>>> Zaparooney.   x_x
>>>
>>>
>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>
>>> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>>>
>>> "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, *Blade 
>>> Runner*
>>>
>>>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[Benoit Tourret]

Thanks Terry.

this also will help me a lot.
My electronic courses are too far to be clear in my mind...

When I read gregebert's thread, I wanted to write the complete equation to 
calculate the resistor for a wanted current. but the result was the 
opposite of the reality... 
so I decided to use a potentiometer and a galva...
but you gave me the result !!!
Le samedi 22 avril 2023 à 22:13:14 UTC+2, Mac Doktor a écrit :

> Reading this thread has begun to make my eyes glaze over. I find the 
> following diagram to be helpful for understanding some of what's going on. 
> Perhaps it will add some clarity to the discussion. This in from Marcin 
> Saj's github and specifically concerns his PRO Nixie Tester:
>
> [image: pro-nixie-tester-how-to-use-02.jpg]
> It took a while for me to completely understand how all of this works and 
> this diagram was a huge help. I doubt that I would have worked it clearly 
> otherwise. For the record I haven't gotten around to reading the JB Dance 
> book—yet.
>
> Full info here:
>
> https://github.com/marcinsaj/Universal-PRO-Nixie-Tester-and-Healer
>
>
> Right now I'm using the PRO Nixie Tester with three DMMs but I've 
> purchased some DPMs for a compact, dedicated meter bridge. Someday I'll get 
> around to making a panel and wiring them up. And rigging up isolated power 
> supplies for them.
>
>
> On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Moses  wrote:
>
> That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what you 
> would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 200mA 
> capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good.
>
>
> Zaparooney.   x_x
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, *Blade 
> Runner*
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[Mac Doktor]

Reading this thread has begun to make my eyes glaze over. I find the following 
diagram to be helpful for understanding some of what's going on. Perhaps it 
will add some clarity to the discussion. This in from Marcin Saj's github and 
specifically concerns his PRO Nixie Tester:


It took a while for me to completely understand how all of this works and this 
diagram was a huge help. I doubt that I would have worked it clearly otherwise. 
For the record I haven't gotten around to reading the JB Dance book—yet.

Full info here:

https://github.com/marcinsaj/Universal-PRO-Nixie-Tester-and-Healer 



Right now I'm using the PRO Nixie Tester with three DMMs but I've purchased 
some DPMs for a compact, dedicated meter bridge. Someday I'll get around to 
making a panel and wiring them up. And rigging up isolated power supplies for 
them.


> On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:50 PM, Moses  wrote:
> 
> That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what you 
> would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 200mA 
> capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good.

Zaparooney.   x_x


Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

https://www.astarcloseup.com

"If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy Batty, Blade Runner

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[gregebert]

Ben - You can just reduce the resistor value slightly to increase the 
current. At 180V, you had 2mA with a 32K resistor; using ohms law, the 
voltage-drop across the resistor is 32K * 2mA = 64V. Since the power supply 
is 180V, the voltage across the nixie tube is about 116V.

To calculate the value for 2.9mA, assume the voltage on the nixie tube is 
still 116V. In reality it will be a bit higher due to more current, but for 
simplicity assume its the same. So, the new resistor value is 64V/2.9mA = 
22K (a common value).



On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 1:23:24 PM UTC-7 Adrian Godwin wrote:

> When I wanted a higher voltage supply to refresh some tubes, I found an 
> electrophoresis supply on ebay (Shandon Vokam 400-100). It provides up to 
> 400V at 100mA with voltage/current metering and did a good job for me. I 
> think it cost me about £40.
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 21, 2023 at 9:19 PM Benoit Tourret  
> wrote:
>
>> I don't know how to rise the intensity...
>> I wish I had a laboratory DC power supply, but mine stops at 30V.
>> so I put a  NCH6300HV to raise the voltage. If I can adjust the voltage, 
>> I cannot adjust anything else. 
>> however I added a voltmeter and ammeter to check what I'm sending to the 
>> tube. Do you know if there is an adjustable power supply that can be used 
>> for our beloved tubes?
>> So, I regulate the voltage and I check that I do not exceed the desired 
>> values.
>>
>> should I change the 32K resistor between the PS and the tube? could a 
>> potentiometer be used?
>>
>> So I did see an improvement. but some need to be "heated". I of course 
>> doesn't speak of temperature, but they need 10 to 20 seconds to get their 
>> full glow, a bit like a neon tube with an old starter.
>> They are 52 years old now and never been used.
>>
>> Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 16:20:59 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :
>>
>>> The IN-1 datasheet says 2.5mA typical operating current, so you should 
>>> try cleaning the other 3 tubes at just under 3mA. The other 7 tubes might 
>>> clean-up on their own at normal current if the usage is balanced.
>>>
>>> So did you see some improvement ? 
>>>
>>> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 12:14:05 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>>
 I ran each tube with 180V 2mA / two hours, turning each plate for 2 
 minutes.

 on 10 tubes:

 7 are OK
 3 are not perfect.

 I will wait to be able to lit them all together.


 Le jeudi 20 avril 2023 à 01:27:40 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :

> I couldn't resist asking google Bard this question: Are IN-1 nixie 
> tubes reliable ?
> Well, here's the answer. Feel free to laugh.love the part about 
> the filaments. Geez, maybe that's why I had so much trouble with mine ?
>
> IN-1 nixie tubes are generally reliable, but they can fail over time. 
> The most common failure mode is a leak in the vacuum tube. This can 
> happen 
> due to a number of factors, including manufacturing defects, physical 
> damage, or exposure to extreme temperatures.
>
> If a leak develops, the tube will slowly fill with air and the 
> filaments will eventually burn out. This can happen over a period of 
> months 
> or even years. To prevent leaks, it is important to store IN-1 nixie 
> tubes 
> in a cool, dry place and to avoid dropping or banging them.
>
> Another potential failure mode is a failure of the heater filament. 
> This can happen due to a number of factors, including overheating, 
> overvoltage, or physical damage. If the heater filament fails, the tube 
> will not light up.
>
> To prevent heater filament failures, it is important to use a 
> regulated power supply and to avoid exceeding the maximum operating 
> voltage.
>
> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:03:54 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>
>> I never had an IN-1 run long enough to get poisoned. Mine developed 
>> internal shorts, resulting in 2 numerals glowing at the same time.
>> From what I've heard, nixie degradation increases exponentially with 
>> current, so you want to stay as close as possible to normal operating 
>> current. Try running the worst digit continuously for a few hours at 20% 
>> higher current, and see if that helps. I was (briefly) drawn to the IN-1 
>> over 10 years ago because of the large size for the low cost; I bought a 
>> case of 25 for around 40USD including shipping. Only a few survive today 
>> that weren't dissected or tortured in a microwave oven (yeah, pretty 
>> hilarious but kinda toxic because of the bakelite).
>>
>> A few of the IN-18's in my clock have shown signs of poisoning even 
>> though I run a cleansing routine for 1 hour every night. This is 
>> most-visible on the first day of the month for the months digit, and it 
>> can 
>> take a few days to recover. This clock has 14 tubes; kinda ridiculous 
>> but 
>> it looks 

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[Adrian Godwin]

When I wanted a higher voltage supply to refresh some tubes, I found an
electrophoresis supply on ebay (Shandon Vokam 400-100). It provides up to
400V at 100mA with voltage/current metering and did a good job for me. I
think it cost me about £40.


On Fri, Apr 21, 2023 at 9:19 PM Benoit Tourret 
wrote:

> I don't know how to rise the intensity...
> I wish I had a laboratory DC power supply, but mine stops at 30V.
> so I put a  NCH6300HV to raise the voltage. If I can adjust the voltage, I
> cannot adjust anything else.
> however I added a voltmeter and ammeter to check what I'm sending to the
> tube. Do you know if there is an adjustable power supply that can be used
> for our beloved tubes?
> So, I regulate the voltage and I check that I do not exceed the desired
> values.
>
> should I change the 32K resistor between the PS and the tube? could a
> potentiometer be used?
>
> So I did see an improvement. but some need to be "heated". I of course
> doesn't speak of temperature, but they need 10 to 20 seconds to get their
> full glow, a bit like a neon tube with an old starter.
> They are 52 years old now and never been used.
>
> Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 16:20:59 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :
>
>> The IN-1 datasheet says 2.5mA typical operating current, so you should
>> try cleaning the other 3 tubes at just under 3mA. The other 7 tubes might
>> clean-up on their own at normal current if the usage is balanced.
>>
>> So did you see some improvement ?
>>
>> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 12:14:05 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> I ran each tube with 180V 2mA / two hours, turning each plate for 2
>>> minutes.
>>>
>>> on 10 tubes:
>>>
>>> 7 are OK
>>> 3 are not perfect.
>>>
>>> I will wait to be able to lit them all together.
>>>
>>>
>>> Le jeudi 20 avril 2023 à 01:27:40 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit :
>>>
 I couldn't resist asking google Bard this question: Are IN-1 nixie
 tubes reliable ?
 Well, here's the answer. Feel free to laugh.love the part about the
 filaments. Geez, maybe that's why I had so much trouble with mine ?

 IN-1 nixie tubes are generally reliable, but they can fail over time.
 The most common failure mode is a leak in the vacuum tube. This can happen
 due to a number of factors, including manufacturing defects, physical
 damage, or exposure to extreme temperatures.

 If a leak develops, the tube will slowly fill with air and the
 filaments will eventually burn out. This can happen over a period of months
 or even years. To prevent leaks, it is important to store IN-1 nixie tubes
 in a cool, dry place and to avoid dropping or banging them.

 Another potential failure mode is a failure of the heater filament.
 This can happen due to a number of factors, including overheating,
 overvoltage, or physical damage. If the heater filament fails, the tube
 will not light up.

 To prevent heater filament failures, it is important to use a regulated
 power supply and to avoid exceeding the maximum operating voltage.

 On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:03:54 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:

> I never had an IN-1 run long enough to get poisoned. Mine developed
> internal shorts, resulting in 2 numerals glowing at the same time.
> From what I've heard, nixie degradation increases exponentially with
> current, so you want to stay as close as possible to normal operating
> current. Try running the worst digit continuously for a few hours at 20%
> higher current, and see if that helps. I was (briefly) drawn to the IN-1
> over 10 years ago because of the large size for the low cost; I bought a
> case of 25 for around 40USD including shipping. Only a few survive today
> that weren't dissected or tortured in a microwave oven (yeah, pretty
> hilarious but kinda toxic because of the bakelite).
>
> A few of the IN-18's in my clock have shown signs of poisoning even
> though I run a cleansing routine for 1 hour every night. This is
> most-visible on the first day of the month for the months digit, and it 
> can
> take a few days to recover. This clock has 14 tubes; kinda ridiculous but
> it looks impressive. It was inspired by the movie "Tomorrowland", which 
> has
> a brief scene with two 6-digit IN-18 clocks. I'm certain one of our
> neonixie members is the creator of that clock (that was an invitation for
> you to take a well-deserved bow...).
>
> Tubes that run 0-9 during the day need no cleansing (unit seconds,
> unit minutes, unit hours). Tubes the run 0-5 during the day are cleansed 
> by
> running 6-9 (tens seconds, tens minutes). Tubes that are static, or near
> static (tens hours, month, day, year) run 0-9 for cleansing.
>
> The static tubes, notably the 4-digit year, show very little signs of
> poisoning because I have swapped them around to put the
> most-vulnerable-to-poisoning tubes where 

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: unpoison a IN-1

[Nick Andrews]

So I shouldn't be storing totes of nixies on a high shelf in my shed in
Texas?

" Only a few survive today that weren't dissected or tortured in a
microwave oven (yeah, pretty hilarious but kinda toxic because of the
bakelite)."  This is why I used to have a shop microwave, just for
experiments and such...  They are cheap enough!  But I gave it away while
moving from NM to TX (it only took 5.5 years to complete).

On Wed, Apr 19, 2023 at 6:27 PM gregebert  wrote:

> I couldn't resist asking google Bard this question: Are IN-1 nixie tubes
> reliable ?
> Well, here's the answer. Feel free to laugh.love the part about the
> filaments. Geez, maybe that's why I had so much trouble with mine ?
>
> IN-1 nixie tubes are generally reliable, but they can fail over time. The
> most common failure mode is a leak in the vacuum tube. This can happen due
> to a number of factors, including manufacturing defects, physical damage,
> or exposure to extreme temperatures.
>
> If a leak develops, the tube will slowly fill with air and the filaments
> will eventually burn out. This can happen over a period of months or even
> years. To prevent leaks, it is important to store IN-1 nixie tubes in a
> cool, dry place and to avoid dropping or banging them.
>
> Another potential failure mode is a failure of the heater filament. This
> can happen due to a number of factors, including overheating, overvoltage,
> or physical damage. If the heater filament fails, the tube will not light
> up.
>
> To prevent heater filament failures, it is important to use a regulated
> power supply and to avoid exceeding the maximum operating voltage.
>
> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:03:54 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote:
>
>> I never had an IN-1 run long enough to get poisoned. Mine developed
>> internal shorts, resulting in 2 numerals glowing at the same time.
>> From what I've heard, nixie degradation increases exponentially with
>> current, so you want to stay as close as possible to normal operating
>> current. Try running the worst digit continuously for a few hours at 20%
>> higher current, and see if that helps. I was (briefly) drawn to the IN-1
>> over 10 years ago because of the large size for the low cost; I bought a
>> case of 25 for around 40USD including shipping. Only a few survive today
>> that weren't dissected or tortured in a microwave oven (yeah, pretty
>> hilarious but kinda toxic because of the bakelite).
>>
>> A few of the IN-18's in my clock have shown signs of poisoning even
>> though I run a cleansing routine for 1 hour every night. This is
>> most-visible on the first day of the month for the months digit, and it can
>> take a few days to recover. This clock has 14 tubes; kinda ridiculous but
>> it looks impressive. It was inspired by the movie "Tomorrowland", which has
>> a brief scene with two 6-digit IN-18 clocks. I'm certain one of our
>> neonixie members is the creator of that clock (that was an invitation for
>> you to take a well-deserved bow...).
>>
>> Tubes that run 0-9 during the day need no cleansing (unit seconds, unit
>> minutes, unit hours). Tubes the run 0-5 during the day are cleansed by
>> running 6-9 (tens seconds, tens minutes). Tubes that are static, or near
>> static (tens hours, month, day, year) run 0-9 for cleansing.
>>
>> The static tubes, notably the 4-digit year, show very little signs of
>> poisoning because I have swapped them around to put the
>> most-vulnerable-to-poisoning tubes where they run 0-9 during the day.
>>
>> I havn't seen any signs of poisoning on Burroughs tubes.
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 11:39:54 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote:
>>
>>> Hello, I have some IN-1 that seems to be poisoned. poisoned or rather
>>> oxided, as they seems to  be really new. it is fine mesh from September
>>> 1971.
>>> two of them are fine after one or two day, tree other doesn't show any
>>> improvement.
>>>
>>> I read that I must overload them a while but how many and how long
>>> should I keep one digit on before light the next digit ? is it 1 second or
>>> one day...
>>>
>>> by the way, as I read that this tube doesn't have mercury inside, can it
>>> be unpoisonned ?
>>>
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