RE: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread Bob W
 Very true! I'd say it took me about a year to be completely comfortable
 making BW conversions that looked exactly like I wanted them to.
 
 Colin, I like me some contrasty BW, but there's nothing like an image
 displaying the whole array of greys:
 
 http://worldofmiserere.com/p265653557/h7fd8153#h7fd8153

I don't remember seeing your gallery before. You have some great shots
there, but that enormous copyright blob really spoils the experience.

B


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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Fri, Nov 19, 2010 at 12:00 AM, Bob W p...@web-options.com wrote:
 Very true! I'd say it took me about a year to be completely comfortable
 making BW conversions that looked exactly like I wanted them to.

 Colin, I like me some contrasty BW, but there's nothing like an image
 displaying the whole array of greys:

 http://worldofmiserere.com/p265653557/h7fd8153#h7fd8153

 I don't remember seeing your gallery before. You have some great shots
 there, but that enormous copyright blob really spoils the experience.

I agree on both counts.

-- 
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  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread Miserere
On 19 November 2010 09:46, Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Fri, Nov 19, 2010 at 12:00 AM, Bob W p...@web-options.com wrote:
 Very true! I'd say it took me about a year to be completely comfortable
 making BW conversions that looked exactly like I wanted them to.

 Colin, I like me some contrasty BW, but there's nothing like an image
 displaying the whole array of greys:

 http://worldofmiserere.com/p265653557/h7fd8153#h7fd8153

 I don't remember seeing your gallery before. You have some great shots
 there, but that enormous copyright blob really spoils the experience.

 I agree on both counts.

Thanks guys, on both counts. I have it on my to-do list: Generate
custom copyright for WoM. Just haven't got around to it yet... It
won't be as invasive or blobby, I promise.

WoM has been up for a few months now, but it's always nice to have new
visitors  :-)


   —M.

\/\/o/\/\ -- http://WorldOfMiserere.com

http://EnticingTheLight.com
A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread P. J. Alling
I apply filters in post, using a BW conversion plugin that I originally 
downloaded from a link at Mark Roberts software page.  The whole 
procedure is rather simple.


1.) Make the best Color photo possible from file, using the raw converter.

2.) In the picture editing software tweak it if necessary.

3.) Convert to 8 bit, (the BW converter 8 bit only), and convert using 
the filter I would have used on BW film, (the good part here is that 
you can try alternate filters if you don't like the results).


4.) Adjust contrast using the Curves tool, (if necessary, thought it's 
usually not), maybe burn or dodge a bit using the appropriate Photoshop 
tool.


Most of my conversions are well received.  I find it's better not to 
over think the procedure.


On 11/18/2010 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
There just is not the tonal variance.

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
http://kerygmainstitute.org

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
-- Jim Elliott









--
His lack of education is more than compensated for by his keenly developed moral 
bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen


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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread paul stenquist
I used those filters at one time, but they're not compatible with later 
versions of PhotoShop. Plus the new BW conversion features of both PS and ACR 
allow more fine tuning than did the filters.
Paul


On Nov 19, 2010, at 12:38 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

 I apply filters in post, using a BW conversion plugin that I originally 
 downloaded from a link at Mark Roberts software page.  The whole procedure is 
 rather simple.
 
 1.) Make the best Color photo possible from file, using the raw converter.
 
 2.) In the picture editing software tweak it if necessary.
 
 3.) Convert to 8 bit, (the BW converter 8 bit only), and convert using the 
 filter I would have used on BW film, (the good part here is that you can try 
 alternate filters if you don't like the results).
 
 4.) Adjust contrast using the Curves tool, (if necessary, thought it's 
 usually not), maybe burn or dodge a bit using the appropriate Photoshop tool.
 
 Most of my conversions are well received.  I find it's better not to over 
 think the procedure.
 
 On 11/18/2010 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.
 
 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.
 
 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.
 
 Sincerely,
 
 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org
 
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 His lack of education is more than compensated for by his keenly developed 
 moral bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen
 
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread P. J. Alling
I used that method to create this BW image from my last years 
contirbution to the annual.  It's a new BW rendering as I couldn't find 
the earlier example I created, and is probably a bit less dramatic.  I 
chose to use the Yellow filter to keep the tones as close to the color 
original as possible while still maintaining tonal separation.  Any loss 
of detail can be attributed to the fact that I did the conversion from 
the PESO and not the original file.


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/surfclubmadisonctb%26w_yellow.jpg

and the original for those who care.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20surfclubmadisonct.html

On 11/19/2010 12:38 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
I apply filters in post, using a BW conversion plugin that I 
originally downloaded from a link at Mark Roberts software page.  The 
whole procedure is rather simple.


1.) Make the best Color photo possible from file, using the raw 
converter.


2.) In the picture editing software tweak it if necessary.

3.) Convert to 8 bit, (the BW converter 8 bit only), and convert 
using the filter I would have used on BW film, (the good part here is 
that you can try alternate filters if you don't like the results).


4.) Adjust contrast using the Curves tool, (if necessary, thought it's 
usually not), maybe burn or dodge a bit using the appropriate 
Photoshop tool.


Most of my conversions are well received.  I find it's better not to 
over think the procedure.


On 11/18/2010 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs 
do?

I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, 
zone 6.

There just is not the tonal variance.

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
http://kerygmainstitute.org

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot 
lose

-- Jim Elliott












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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread P. J. Alling
Hum, for a better comparison, you probably would want to see it on it's 
web page...


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20surfclubmadisonctbwyellow.html

On 11/19/2010 4:05 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
I used that method to create this BW image from my last years 
contirbution to the annual.  It's a new BW rendering as I couldn't 
find the earlier example I created, and is probably a bit less 
dramatic.  I chose to use the Yellow filter to keep the tones as close 
to the color original as possible while still maintaining tonal 
separation.  Any loss of detail can be attributed to the fact that I 
did the conversion from the PESO and not the original file.


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/surfclubmadisonctb%26w_yellow.jpg

and the original for those who care.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20surfclubmadisonct.html

On 11/19/2010 12:38 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
I apply filters in post, using a BW conversion plugin that I 
originally downloaded from a link at Mark Roberts software page.  The 
whole procedure is rather simple.


1.) Make the best Color photo possible from file, using the raw 
converter.


2.) In the picture editing software tweak it if necessary.

3.) Convert to 8 bit, (the BW converter 8 bit only), and convert 
using the filter I would have used on BW film, (the good part here 
is that you can try alternate filters if you don't like the results).


4.) Adjust contrast using the Curves tool, (if necessary, thought 
it's usually not), maybe burn or dodge a bit using the appropriate 
Photoshop tool.


Most of my conversions are well received.  I find it's better not to 
over think the procedure.


On 11/18/2010 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we 
filmaniacs do?

I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, 
zone 6.

There just is not the tonal variance.

Sincerely,

Collin Brendemuehl
http://kerygmainstitute.org

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot 
lose

-- Jim Elliott















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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread Brian Walters
On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 16:07 -0500, P. J. Alling
webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hum, for a better comparison, you probably would want to see it on it's 
 web page...
 
 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20surfclubmadisonctbwyellow.html
 



I've used that filter occasionally too, but the 8 bit limit means that I
try other methods most of the time.  It's interesting that the filter
will actually load (in CS3, anyway) if an image is in 16 bit mode but
the results are odd to say the least.  Photoshop usually deactivates 8
bit filters if the image is 16 bit.


Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/




 On 11/19/2010 4:05 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
  I used that method to create this BW image from my last years 
  contirbution to the annual.  It's a new BW rendering as I couldn't 
  find the earlier example I created, and is probably a bit less 
  dramatic.  I chose to use the Yellow filter to keep the tones as close 
  to the color original as possible while still maintaining tonal 
  separation.  Any loss of detail can be attributed to the fact that I 
  did the conversion from the PESO and not the original file.
 
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/surfclubmadisonctb%26w_yellow.jpg
 
  and the original for those who care.
 
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1604247/PESO/PESO%20--%20surfclubmadisonct.html
 
  On 11/19/2010 12:38 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:
  I apply filters in post, using a BW conversion plugin that I 
  originally downloaded from a link at Mark Roberts software page.  The 
  whole procedure is rather simple.
 
  1.) Make the best Color photo possible from file, using the raw 
  converter.
 
  2.) In the picture editing software tweak it if necessary.
 
  3.) Convert to 8 bit, (the BW converter 8 bit only), and convert 
  using the filter I would have used on BW film, (the good part here 
  is that you can try alternate filters if you don't like the results).
 
  4.) Adjust contrast using the Curves tool, (if necessary, thought 
  it's usually not), maybe burn or dodge a bit using the appropriate 
  Photoshop tool.
 
  Most of my conversions are well received.  I find it's better not to 
  over think the procedure.
 
  On 11/18/2010 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
  I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.
 
  When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we 
  filmaniacs do?
  I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.
 
  When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
  seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, 
  zone 6.
  There just is not the tonal variance.
 
  Sincerely,
 
  Collin Brendemuehl
  http://kerygmainstitute.org
 
  He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot 
  lose
  -- Jim Elliott
 
 
-- 


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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread Miserere
On 19 November 2010 12:38, P. J. Alling webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote:

 I find it's better not to over think the procedure.

That's pretty good advice, P.J.

But can you quantify how long is overthink? 5 mins? 50 mins? Just
want to know if I'm overthinking or not  :-)


   —M.

\/\/o/\/\ -- http://WorldOfMiserere.com

http://EnticingTheLight.com
A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-19 Thread P. J. Alling
It takes me about 10 minutes to process a BW from the time I decide it 
should be BW.  Sometimes if it's shot under difficult lighting a bit 
more to dodge burn and maybe mess with the contrast.  But I usually 
decided on the level of contrast I'm looking for before I start.


On 11/19/2010 6:24 PM, Miserere wrote:

On 19 November 2010 12:38, P. J. Allingwebstertwenty...@gmail.com  wrote:

I find it's better not to over think the procedure.

That's pretty good advice, P.J.

But can you quantify how long is overthink? 5 mins? 50 mins? Just
want to know if I'm overthinking or not  :-)


—M.

 \/\/o/\/\ --  http://WorldOfMiserere.com

 http://EnticingTheLight.com
 A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment




--
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bankruptcy.
 -Woody Allen


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digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
There just is not the tonal variance.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
http://kerygmainstitute.org 

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread CheekyGeek
The only filters that I feel are necessary/useful in the digital world
are Neutral Density filters (for those times you want longer shutter
speeds at equiv. apertures or gradient NDs) and maybe polarizers.
Other than that, you can do the filter-thing for various BW
enhancements with a post-processing product like Nik Software's Silver
Efex Pro.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/silver_efex_pro/pool/

Darren Addy
Kearney, Nebraska
-- 
Nothing is sure, except Death and Pentaxes.

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread paul stenquist

On Nov 18, 2010, at 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.
 
 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.
 
 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.

That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, but I 
convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the gray level 
of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film in many ways. I 
believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
Paul


 Sincerely, 
 
 Collin Brendemuehl 
 http://kerygmainstitute.org 
 
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
 -- Jim Elliott 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread David Parsons
Yeah, LR has sliders for each color (10 or 12 different colors and
shades, IIRC).  I really like how LR handles BW conversions.

On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 2:21 PM, paul stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net wrote:

 On Nov 18, 2010, at 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.

 That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, but 
 I convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the gray 
 level of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film in many 
 ways. I believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
 Paul


 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org

 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Larry Colen

On Nov 18, 2010, at 11:16 AM, CheekyGeek wrote:

 The only filters that I feel are necessary/useful in the digital world
 are Neutral Density filters (for those times you want longer shutter
 speeds at equiv. apertures or gradient NDs) and maybe polarizers.

In most cases, I'd agree with you.  I was experimenting at the local dive 
bar/blues club last night, photographing a friend's gig. The red channel is two 
to three stops brighter than the blue and green channels.  I was experimenting 
both with and without blue filters, and both with and without in camera white 
balance.  With a blue filter on the camera, I was able to set the custom white 
balance, however without a blue filter, the ambient color balance was so far 
out of whack, that the camera would not set a custom color balance.

I haven't had a chance to process the photos and see how the best of each set 
turns out.  I suspect that for shooting color, then a filter could actually be 
useful for bringing radically out of color balance scenes back into balance, if 
you can handle the loss of light. However, in these situations, what any sane 
person would do is just convert to black and white in post.

This is a situation where:
1) I REALLY wish the histogram could show raw data, rather than JPEG.
2) I wish that lightroom had an extra stop or two of adjustment on color 
balance.
3) It would be nice to be able to adjust the ISO of each color channel 
separately, so that color balance could be achieved and still expose to the 
right on all three channels.



 Other than that, you can do the filter-thing for various BW
 enhancements with a post-processing product like Nik Software's Silver
 Efex Pro.
 
 http://www.flickr.com/groups/silver_efex_pro/pool/

Yeah, for what Collin asked, just do it in software.  All filters on your 
camera do is let you choose what information that you throw away before it even 
gets to the sensor.

 
 Darren Addy
 Kearney, Nebraska
 -- 
 Nothing is sure, except Death and Pentaxes.
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Tim Bray
In fact, I've used the LR low-contrast and high-contrast presets for
making BW and they do pretty well.  I always tinker but on a couple
occasions just went almost entirely with the preset, because it was so
good.
-Tim

On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Parsons parsons.da...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yeah, LR has sliders for each color (10 or 12 different colors and
 shades, IIRC).  I really like how LR handles BW conversions.

 On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 2:21 PM, paul stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net 
 wrote:

 On Nov 18, 2010, at 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.

 That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, 
 but I convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the 
 gray level of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film in 
 many ways. I believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
 Paul


 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org

 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Matthew Montgomery
I use Matt Kloskowski's black and white presets as a starting point at times. 

http://lightroomkillertips.com/2009/presets-better-black-and-whites/

On Nov 18, 2010, at 1:45 PM, Tim Bray wrote:

 In fact, I've used the LR low-contrast and high-contrast presets for
 making BW and they do pretty well.  I always tinker but on a couple
 occasions just went almost entirely with the preset, because it was so
 good.
 -Tim
 
 On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 11:32 AM, David Parsons parsons.da...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 Yeah, LR has sliders for each color (10 or 12 different colors and
 shades, IIRC).  I really like how LR handles BW conversions.
 
 On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 2:21 PM, paul stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 On Nov 18, 2010, at 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
 
 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.
 
 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.
 
 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.
 
 That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, 
 but I convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the 
 gray level of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film 
 in many ways. I believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
 Paul
 
 
 Sincerely,
 
 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org
 
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
Paul the heretic Stenquist wrote:

That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, but 
I convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the gray 
level of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film in many 
ways. I believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
Paul

Anyone here have a good background in bw printing?  
Have you found a digital technique that can equal split printing?  
I haven't yet, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.  
Split printing involves altering the times for separate 
high contrast and low contrast filter settings.  
That way I can burn in low contrast textures for n(1) time 
while doing high contrast for n(2) time for other purposes.
This allows me to emphasize the details of texture while not
over-exposing the print.
My personal favorite technique.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
http://kerygmainstitute.org 

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott



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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Jack Davis
The only minor tinkering I've done in this area is use a polarizer on the BW 
preset and compare that to a post color conversion. Felt the color channel 
conversion capabilities were superior.

--- On Thu, 11/18/10, Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:

 From: Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net
 Subject: digital bw
 To: pdml pdml@pdml.net
 Date: Thursday, November 18, 2010, 11:02 AM
 I've been looking at a lot of digital
 bw work this week.
 
 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we
 filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m.
 experiment.
 
 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the
 Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black,
 near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.
 
 Sincerely, 
 
 Collin Brendemuehl 
 http://kerygmainstitute.org 
 
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what
 he cannot lose 
 -- Jim Elliott 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
I haven't looked at the Pentax Photo Gallery in a very long time, but
I assure you that what I print is hardly 3 tones. ;-)

I capture raw format and use Lightroom (and/or Photoshop) to render
BW. Rendering BW is not a Saturday a.m. experiment if you want to
be skilled at it.

Regards filters, for most things, ND, grad ND and Polarizers are all
that are necessary once you're doing digital capture. The traditional
spectral translation adjustments afforded by Red, Orange, Yellow,
Green, and Blue filters are all more than capably replaced by various
techniques in image processing the color channels. Special purpose
filters ... Infrared, ultraviolet, effects, etc ... are of course
still needed if you are trying to capture something outside of
rendering normal visible light to BW.

Something you can't do in BW film capture using filters but is quite
easy to accomplish with digital capture and image processing is
selective change to the spectral translation within a single exposure.
For instance, if you have one section of a photo where you want to
separate tones arising from clothing but need a different filter for
skin tone, you can apply one set of digital filters to one area and a
different set of digital filters to the other area of the photo. The
traditional selective tonal gradation adjustments performed by dodge
and burn operations are also easily performed in image processing.

And just like in film and wet lab BW photography, there is a wide
assortment of paper types and surfaces which affect the output image.
Computer displays remain tricksy things to present photographs with
... prints are a much more stable presentation platform.

Digital capture and image processing bring new levels of capability
and quality to BW photography. :-)

On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 11:02 AM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org

 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Mark Roberts
Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

Paul the heretic Stenquist wrote:

That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, but 
I convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the gray 
level of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film in many 
ways. I believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
Paul

Anyone here have a good background in bw printing?  
Have you found a digital technique that can equal split printing?  
I haven't yet, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.  
Split printing involves altering the times for separate 
high contrast and low contrast filter settings.  
That way I can burn in low contrast textures for n(1) time 
while doing high contrast for n(2) time for other purposes.
This allows me to emphasize the details of texture while not
over-exposing the print.
My personal favorite technique.

You can't do that in raw conversion but you can do it in Photoshop
with layer masks. You can even do two different raw conversions, one
with high contrast and one with low contrast, and combine them.

BTW: In theory, because of metamerism it's impossible for
post-processing of digital captures to emulate all the effects
possible with colored filters and BW film. Once you've split the
broad-spectrum light into three grayscale channels some information is
lost that can never be recovered. In theory. I've never had any
trouble getting the effect I wanted in digital post-processing,
though.  (But, come to think of it, Larry Colen's example might be a
case of this happening...)


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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Jeffery Smith
Photoshop allows a large measure of filter effects in converting color to 
BW, using slider tools that show the preview of the filter's effects. The 
biggest problem I have when shooting digital is blown highlights that I cannot 
burn and basically have to replace using cut a paste from an adjoining area. 
I've gotten to the point that I often have to use exposure compensation of -1 
to avoid blown highlights.

Jeffery

On Nov 18, 2010, at 1:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.
 
 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.
 
 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.
 
 Sincerely, 
 
 Collin Brendemuehl 
 http://kerygmainstitute.org 
 
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
 -- Jim Elliott 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Mark Roberts
Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

Rendering BW is not a Saturday a.m. experiment if you want to
be skilled at it.

Boy, *that's* the truth!

Especially if you're skilled at BW darkroom printing: There's a whole
new set of techniques to learn and old ones to unlearn. The latter is
harder :)

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
Some good information.  Thanks all.

But do you ever feel like rendering bw is like rendering lard?
It takes a long time and it's messy but 
good pie crust and pastry are better that way.
I feel the same way about the chemical darkroom and only wish days were longer.

There is so much I want to do, to study, and to write.
But alas ...

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
http://kerygmainstitute.org 

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread CheekyGeek
I'm in the process of setting up an old school BW darkroom just
because I miss the process/smells/etc.
The only film I really plan on shooting from this point forward will
be BW that I develop myself.
I'm also interested in exploring alternative processes in the monochrome world.

However, if you get a really good image that requires a lot of
separate gyrations to produce a perfect print, getting consistent
prints can be an expensive pain. That's one huge benefit to digital
(albeit an obvious one). Once you've got the digital file the way you
want it, any number of prints with that same perfection is assured. Of
course, that is one more thing to make the old process more
singular/valuable.

I guess I'd liken it to automobiles and bicycles. The one didn't
become totally impractical or unenjoyable just because the other is
used (or practical) more often.

Darren Addy
Kearney, Nebraska



On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 2:22 PM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 Some good information.  Thanks all.

 But do you ever feel like rendering bw is like rendering lard?
 It takes a long time and it's messy but
 good pie crust and pastry are better that way.
 I feel the same way about the chemical darkroom and only wish days were 
 longer.

 There is so much I want to do, to study, and to write.
 But alas ...

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org

 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread paul stenquist

On Nov 18, 2010, at 2:57 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:

 Paul the heretic Stenquist wrote:
 
 That's probably the result of sloppy conversions. I don't employ filters, 
 but I convert using the ACR BW function, which allows you to control the 
 gray level of each color independently. It's actually superior to BW film 
 in many ways. I believe Lightroom offers similar conversion features.
 Paul
 
 Anyone here have a good background in bw printing?  
 Have you found a digital technique that can equal split printing?  
 I haven't yet, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.  
 Split printing involves altering the times for separate 
 high contrast and low contrast filter settings.  
 That way I can burn in low contrast textures for n(1) time 
 while doing high contrast for n(2) time for other purposes.
 This allows me to emphasize the details of texture while not
 over-exposing the print.
 My personal favorite technique.
 

Paul the heretic Stenquist printed BW in the darkroom for thirty years. And 
yes, I've done split printing with different contrast filters. I've also used a 
wide variety of papers and chemicals, along with contrast control development 
of the film. No darkroom techniques can match the results achievable with 
digital BW. In digital processing, each tone can be rendered individually, 
allowing infinite adjustment of grays. 
Paul


 Sincerely, 
 
 Collin Brendemuehl 
 http://kerygmainstitute.org 
 
 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
 -- Jim Elliott
 
 
 
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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Collin Brendemuehl
Paul the heretic Stenquist printed BW in the darkroom for thirty years. 
And yes, I've done split printing with different contrast filters. 
I've also used a wide variety of papers and chemicals, along with 
contrast control development of the film. No darkroom techniques can match 
the results achievable with digital BW. In digital processing, each tone 
can be rendered individually, allowing infinite adjustment of grays. 
Paul

Apologies for the moniker.  Just a little turf thing.
Thanks.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
http://kerygmainstitute.org 

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Adam Maas
No, when doing BW conversion from colour I handle the filtration in
post (Note I've been known to do this with both colour film and
digital. Provia 100F in particular makes just lovely BW images).

BW images online tend to be overly contrasty as that grabs attention
(and I say that as someone who tends to like a lot of contrast in his
BW). You can do very nice BW conversions with subtle tones but that
sort of image really needs to be printed to look good, especially on
consumer-grade monitors.

-Adam

On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 2:02 PM, Collin Brendemuehl
coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 I've been looking at a lot of digital bw work this week.

 When you digitroids do this, do you employ filters like we filmaniacs do?
 I'm thinking that this might be a good Saturday a.m. experiment.

 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.

 Sincerely,

 Collin Brendemuehl
 http://kerygmainstitute.org

 He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose
 -- Jim Elliott






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Explorations of the City Around Us.

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 12:10 PM, Jeffery Smith jsmith...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 Photoshop allows a large measure of filter effects in converting color to 
 BW, using slider tools that show the preview of the filter's effects.

Filter effects isn't the right expression, nor is converting color
to BW when you're talking about digital capture to producing BW
results. It's somewhat sloppy language that has somehow become the
standard.

When you make an exposure with a digital camera and save it as a raw
file, you are capturing an [x,y] array of linear gamma luminance
intensities organized in an RGB mosaic. The process of 'raw
conversion' into something intelligible to our eyes involves an
interpolation of those RGB values into chrominance values per pixel
and gamma correction of the luminance intensities to suit the way our
eyes and brain work. A more precise word than 'conversion' is
'rendering'.

Rendering an image to monochrome values rather than RGB values, well,
since what we appreciate as BW photography is a translation of color
values into luminances without chroma, and BW films and colored
filters help us to control that translation by separating or smashing
together color/intensity values into luminance values, what you're
doing with the sliders in Photoshop is directly analogous to putting
filters on the lens when exposing BW film. It's not a filter
effect: it's filtering, period. ;-)

 The biggest problem I have when shooting digital is blown highlights that I 
 cannot burn and basically have to replace using cut a paste from an adjoining 
 area. I've gotten to the point that I often have to use exposure compensation 
 of -1 to avoid blown highlights.

That's a matter of proper exposure for the digital capture medium,
Jeffery, which requires a different approach than metering for film
negatives. You should only very rarely have to use negative EV
Compensation UNLESS your subject matter is mostly dark and the
significant area where you need detail is mostly bright highlights. (I
would say if I looked at exposure compensation values for all of my
past couple years exposures that my properly exposed photos showed a
100:1 preponderance of +EV valued EV Compensation, not -EV values...)

The old adage used for negative film was expose for the shadows,
develop for the highlights, the notion being to get enough light
energy onto the medium to activate the chemicals and record detail
where you wanted it in the dark areas, and then control the gamma (or
contrast curve) to keep from blocking up the highlights through
development techniques.

Digital capture sensors, as said above, always capture in a linear
gamma. Their behavior at the limits of exposure are different from
film media: the highlight limit is a hard stop when the photosite
cannot record any additional light energy, the minimum exposure limit
is a soft threshold where detail can no longer be distinguished from
noise. Another factor: since the capture gamma is linear and has to be
stretched and squeezed into a more curvaceous shape for our eyes and
brain to interpret it correctly, it turns out that we need to stuff as
many bits towards the high end of the range as we can (without hitting
the saturation limit) so that we can stretch the values down into the
low end without losing too much data along the way.

So the goal in exposing properly for a digital sensor is to consider
them as more similar to transparency film ... Avoid over-exposure on
the highlights like the dickens and let the rest fall where it might
... but with a lot more control since we can push the rendering curve
around with great freedom in the raw processing phase. I usually look
at a scene with the idea of evaluating a) what's the overall
reflectivity of the scene? and b) where are my Zone IX highlight
values? A scene which has a lot of bright in it and a small contrast
ratio to handle usually means adding exposure from an averaging
meter's normal recommendation (most scenes, as it turns out). A scene
which has big contrast and small areas of significant Zone IX detail
that has to be preserved is one where I will pull down the EV
compensation to keep from overexposing the details I want and let the
rest fall into blackness (if it's outside the DR of the sensor). These
latter are where the Spot metering pattern is helpful in evaluation,
but don't let it do the whole job for you... it's pretty dumb in AE
mode.

Expose for the highlights, and render for the shadows is a
simplification of the technique often called Expose to the Right,
but it works. It presupposed raw capture, btw, because JPEGs don't
have the range of adjustability required for processing high contrast
scenes most of the time.

But I'm beginning to ramble ... ;-)


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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Jeffery Smith
I'll be the first to admit that the digital color stuff still gives me a hard 
time. I'm not resistant when it comes to modern digital technology (and 
converted from the typewriter to the word processor very quickly), but all of 
the parameters in digital photography can be a bit overwhelming after decades 
in the analog world. I've been leaning toward shooting digital as though it 
were color slide film, and that's why the -1 exposure comp. The lighting 
conditions were a bit extreme (shade with some blown out sunlit areas, and 
theater, with some blown out highlights on the actor's face). 

I'll try to get my lingo right. ;-)  Old habits die hard. I also still think of 
my Pentax lenses as x mm equivalent, which I need to stop doing. A 25 1.4 
isn't all that much like a 50 1.4, even if it is on an Olympus E-1. The field 
depth is astronomical.

Jeffery


On Nov 18, 2010, at 4:08 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 12:10 PM, Jeffery Smith jsmith...@bellsouth.net 
 wrote:
 Photoshop allows a large measure of filter effects in converting color to 
 BW, using slider tools that show the preview of the filter's effects.
 
 Filter effects isn't the right expression, nor is converting color
 to BW when you're talking about digital capture to producing BW
 results. It's somewhat sloppy language that has somehow become the
 standard.
 
 When you make an exposure with a digital camera and save it as a raw
 file, you are capturing an [x,y] array of linear gamma luminance
 intensities organized in an RGB mosaic. The process of 'raw
 conversion' into something intelligible to our eyes involves an
 interpolation of those RGB values into chrominance values per pixel
 and gamma correction of the luminance intensities to suit the way our
 eyes and brain work. A more precise word than 'conversion' is
 'rendering'.
 
 Rendering an image to monochrome values rather than RGB values, well,
 since what we appreciate as BW photography is a translation of color
 values into luminances without chroma, and BW films and colored
 filters help us to control that translation by separating or smashing
 together color/intensity values into luminance values, what you're
 doing with the sliders in Photoshop is directly analogous to putting
 filters on the lens when exposing BW film. It's not a filter
 effect: it's filtering, period. ;-)
 
 The biggest problem I have when shooting digital is blown highlights that I 
 cannot burn and basically have to replace using cut a paste from an 
 adjoining area. I've gotten to the point that I often have to use exposure 
 compensation of -1 to avoid blown highlights.
 
 That's a matter of proper exposure for the digital capture medium,
 Jeffery, which requires a different approach than metering for film
 negatives. You should only very rarely have to use negative EV
 Compensation UNLESS your subject matter is mostly dark and the
 significant area where you need detail is mostly bright highlights. (I
 would say if I looked at exposure compensation values for all of my
 past couple years exposures that my properly exposed photos showed a
 100:1 preponderance of +EV valued EV Compensation, not -EV values...)
 
 The old adage used for negative film was expose for the shadows,
 develop for the highlights, the notion being to get enough light
 energy onto the medium to activate the chemicals and record detail
 where you wanted it in the dark areas, and then control the gamma (or
 contrast curve) to keep from blocking up the highlights through
 development techniques.
 
 Digital capture sensors, as said above, always capture in a linear
 gamma. Their behavior at the limits of exposure are different from
 film media: the highlight limit is a hard stop when the photosite
 cannot record any additional light energy, the minimum exposure limit
 is a soft threshold where detail can no longer be distinguished from
 noise. Another factor: since the capture gamma is linear and has to be
 stretched and squeezed into a more curvaceous shape for our eyes and
 brain to interpret it correctly, it turns out that we need to stuff as
 many bits towards the high end of the range as we can (without hitting
 the saturation limit) so that we can stretch the values down into the
 low end without losing too much data along the way.
 
 So the goal in exposing properly for a digital sensor is to consider
 them as more similar to transparency film ... Avoid over-exposure on
 the highlights like the dickens and let the rest fall where it might
 ... but with a lot more control since we can push the rendering curve
 around with great freedom in the raw processing phase. I usually look
 at a scene with the idea of evaluating a) what's the overall
 reflectivity of the scene? and b) where are my Zone IX highlight
 values? A scene which has a lot of bright in it and a small contrast
 ratio to handle usually means adding exposure from an averaging
 meter's normal recommendation (most scenes, as it turns out). A scene
 

Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Ralf R. Radermacher
Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:

 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.

I don't see less tonality in my digital B/W. I usually shoot in colour
and then do the conversion either in Photoshop (via Lab  minus a and b)
or more recently in Lightroom, because it's easier to control the grey
value of the various colours.  

http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0024.html
http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0020.html
http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0063.html
http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0196.html
http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0087.html

Ooops, sorry, the last one was IR.  ;-)

No filters employed in shooting, with the obvious exception of the IR
filter.

Recommended reading: Advanced Digital Black  White Photography, John
Beardsworth, Lark Books

Ralf

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Web   : http://www.fotoralf.de

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Miserere
On 18 November 2010 15:03, Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com wrote:

 I capture raw format and use Lightroom (and/or Photoshop) to render
 BW. Rendering BW is not a Saturday a.m. experiment if you want to
 be skilled at it.

Very true! I'd say it took me about a year to be completely
comfortable making BW conversions that looked exactly like I wanted
them to.

Colin, I like me some contrasty BW, but there's nothing like an image
displaying the whole array of greys:

http://worldofmiserere.com/p265653557/h7fd8153#h7fd8153


   —M.

\/\/o/\/\ -- http://WorldOfMiserere.com

http://EnticingTheLight.com
A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Larry Colen

On Nov 18, 2010, at 4:08 PM, Ralf R. Radermacher wrote:

 Collin Brendemuehl coll...@brendemuehl.net wrote:
 
 When I look at the work on Pentax photo gallery, the Bw efforts
 seem to share a common fault:  3 tones -- near-black, near-white, zone 6.
 There just is not the tonal variance.
 
 I don't see less tonality in my digital B/W. I usually shoot in colour
 and then do the conversion either in Photoshop (via Lab  minus a and b)
 or more recently in Lightroom, because it's easier to control the grey
 value of the various colours.  
 
 http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0024.html
 http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0020.html
 http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0063.html
 http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0196.html
 http://www.fotoralf.de/fotos/pages/0087.html
 
Ralf,  
If you see most of your noise in one channel (such as blue) how do you handle 
it?

   Larry

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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

.Very true! I'd say it took me about a year to be completely
.comfortable making BW conversions that looked exactly like I wanted
.them to.
.
.Colin, I like me some contrasty BW, but there's nothing like an image
.displaying the whole array of greys:


M.

When I look again @ my favorite portrait (apx 100, 4x5):
http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/modelshot.html

In your stuff I see similar tonality in #16  #25.
And the blacks of #19 look a bit like TMax.

Lots of good stuff there.

Sincerely, 

Collin Brendemuehl 
http://kerygmainstitute.org 

He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose 
-- Jim Elliott 






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Re: digital bw

2010-11-18 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 3:38 PM, Jeffery Smith jsmith...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 I'll be the first to admit that the digital color stuff still gives me a hard 
 time. I'm not resistant when it comes to modern digital technology (and 
 converted from the typewriter to the word processor very quickly), but all of 
 the parameters in digital photography can be a bit overwhelming after decades 
 in the analog world. I've been leaning toward shooting digital as though it 
 were color slide film, and that's why the -1 exposure comp. The lighting 
 conditions were a bit extreme (shade with some blown out sunlit areas, and 
 theater, with some blown out highlights on the actor's face).

I figured that might be the case. Theater work is often a mostly dark
scene with spot lit actor/actress faces; clear contrasty sunlight is
always a pain. You are on the right track considering exposure as
color slide film. :-)

 I'll try to get my lingo right. ;-)  Old habits die hard. I also still think 
 of my Pentax lenses as x mm equivalent, which I need to stop doing. A 25 
 1.4 isn't all that much like a 50 1.4, even if it is on an Olympus E-1. The 
 field depth is astronomical.

Um, the field of view is about the same as a 50mm on 35mm Film, the
speed is the same, but the DoF is two stops greater ... f/1.4 behaves
like f/2.8. The difference isn't *that* big, really, but it is
significant as you move farther away.

I've gotten quite comfortable with it now, but then I always did like
smaller formats with lots of DoF to work with at wide apertures.

-- 
Godfrey
  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: OT: News from Epson, better digital bw from colour printers

2002-05-09 Thread Bolo

Brian Campbell wrote: 
 Bolo Wrote:
  It seems to me that ever since Canon released the S800 (and now the
  S900 and S9000), that Epson has been needing to be competitive again,
  instead of standing on their laurels.
 
 Hmm - does that apply to *ALL* Epson printers?
 I just purchased a brand new Stylus Photo 1280, and 
 am REALLY pleased with the results (after fighting with
 Winblows to get my color balances correct.)

I think that the availability of the Canon printers has made a
serious indent into Epson's near exclusive market of good photo-quality
printers.  I think a number of factors contribute to this: print speed,
print quality, longer-duration inks, individual ink cartridges, etc.
A factor for some people are the individual ink cartridges which allow
you to replace only the colors you are using. Another important factor
is the lack of chipped ink cartridges which dedicate you to Epson,
and make it difficult to use a continuous flow system or try different
inks.

Paul Stenquist wrote:
 The Epson 1280 is a great printer. I've spoken to a dozen pro
 photographer reps in the past few weeks and asked them how the
 photographer's portfolios were printed. Eleven out of twelve were
 printed on one or the other of the 1200 series Epson printers (quite a
 few on the early 1200). The other was wet prints. The ink jets were, in
 many cases, stunning.

There is no doubt about that -- I've also seen good prints from the
1270/1280.

Perhaps I was a bit ambiguous -- I don't think that the Canon is
necessarily a better printer, but it is a realistic alternative
to the Epson.   It seems to me that Epson has been sitting on its
current crop of printers for quite some time and not improving them.
For example, all the problems with the 3000 series printer which they
never did anything about.  The high cost/age of the 2000 printer.
Hopefully, with a larger company which is producing some products
that are intruding into Epson's market, Epson will have to push to
make things excellent across the board.  Previously, without viable
alternatives, you pretty much had to take what they gave you.

Bolo -- Josef T. Burger
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Re: OT: News from Epson, better digital bw from colour printers

2002-05-09 Thread Paul Stenquist

See this month's MacWorld for a review of current Epson and Canon
printers in letter size. The Epsons were a bit slower and they noted
that the ink system was a bit less accommodating, but they rated them
far better overall for picture quality. To me, that's the only thing
that matters.

Bolo wrote:
 
 Brian Campbell wrote:
  Bolo Wrote:
   It seems to me that ever since Canon released the S800 (and now the
   S900 and S9000), that Epson has been needing to be competitive again,
   instead of standing on their laurels.
 
  Hmm - does that apply to *ALL* Epson printers?
  I just purchased a brand new Stylus Photo 1280, and
  am REALLY pleased with the results (after fighting with
  Winblows to get my color balances correct.)
 
 I think that the availability of the Canon printers has made a
 serious indent into Epson's near exclusive market of good photo-quality
 printers.  I think a number of factors contribute to this: print speed,
 print quality, longer-duration inks, individual ink cartridges, etc.
 A factor for some people are the individual ink cartridges which allow
 you to replace only the colors you are using. Another important factor
 is the lack of chipped ink cartridges which dedicate you to Epson,
 and make it difficult to use a continuous flow system or try different
 inks.
 
 Paul Stenquist wrote:
  The Epson 1280 is a great printer. I've spoken to a dozen pro
  photographer reps in the past few weeks and asked them how the
  photographer's portfolios were printed. Eleven out of twelve were
  printed on one or the other of the 1200 series Epson printers (quite a
  few on the early 1200). The other was wet prints. The ink jets were, in
  many cases, stunning.
 
 There is no doubt about that -- I've also seen good prints from the
 1270/1280.
 
 Perhaps I was a bit ambiguous -- I don't think that the Canon is
 necessarily a better printer, but it is a realistic alternative
 to the Epson.   It seems to me that Epson has been sitting on its
 current crop of printers for quite some time and not improving them.
 For example, all the problems with the 3000 series printer which they
 never did anything about.  The high cost/age of the 2000 printer.
 Hopefully, with a larger company which is producing some products
 that are intruding into Epson's market, Epson will have to push to
 make things excellent across the board.  Previously, without viable
 alternatives, you pretty much had to take what they gave you.
 
 Bolo -- Josef T. Burger
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Quality Digital BW

2002-04-11 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Is it true that BW quality digital output is limited to quadtone inks,
and that only matte paper is available for such output?
-- 
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mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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RE: Quality Digital BW

2002-04-11 Thread John Coyle

Shel - I use ordinary Epson inks and photo-quality glossy paper for my BW. 
 Whether it is high enough quality is obviously debatable, but I find it 
acceptable, and I guess that's what counts.  It's probably a case of YMMV!

John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia


On Thursday, April 11, 2002 10:02 PM, Shel Belinkoff 
[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote:
 Is it true that BW quality digital output is limited to quadtone inks,
 and that only matte paper is available for such output?
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
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Re: Quality Digital BW

2002-04-11 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, April 11, 2002, at 08:01  AM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

 Is it true that BW quality digital output is limited to quadtone inks,
 and that only matte paper is available for such output?

Quadtone for quality: it depends.  Quadtone is much better than printing 
black ink only -- better blending, better detail, less patterning.  
Black ink only adds a kind of grain to the image, but depending on the 
film and the print size, it is not always noticeable.  APX 25 printed at 
4x6 would look like crap this way, but TX printed 16x20 would look fine.

Another option is to make duotones in Photoshop, but using this method 
you can never get a truly neutral print.  If you like to print on 
warmtone or coldtone papers in the darkroom, duotones will suit you fine.

As to matte paper, paper choice depends on what inks are used and how 
they react.  I've seen some excellent glossy inkjet papers, but they do 
not produce a good print with every kind of ink -- for instance, 
Tetenal's high gloss paper is phenomenal in dye-based printers like the 
older Epsons and the newer not-so-archival printers, but it absolutely 
STINKS in the pigment-based machines like the 2000P and the 7500 (the 
pigment never drops below the surface layer, just sitting on top looking 
like paint).  However, Ilford's new Galerie glossy stuff is great in the 
7500, so if the issue with quadtone on glossy was because of the 
pigments being incompatible with certain papers, that may no longer be a 
problem.

-Aaron

p.s. you know it's my busy season when I am 500 messages behind in my 
PDML reading even AFTER deleting the Queen Mum/motorcycle helmet/smoking 
threads.
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Re: Quality Digital BW

2002-04-11 Thread Brendan

For me it wasn't a matter of quality but cost. I have
an HP 1120
printer that I could get the 4 grey carts for but the
cost of ink +
coated paper was more than setting up my own darkroom. 

__ 
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Digital BW

2002-02-14 Thread Shel Belinkoff

The Kodak 760M monochrome digital camera was mentioned here a few days
ago.  Does anyone else make a similar camera - one dedicated to BW
photography?
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RE: Digital BW Photography

2001-11-15 Thread Mike Johnston

Bob R. wrote:

 I'm particularly interested in the responses. I personally think that
 digital is a long way from replacing BW. I doubt that there are many
 printers available at any cost that can do justice to the full grey scale of
 a BW print.

You haven't seen enough Piezography prints yet!!

--Mike
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Re: Digital BW Photography

2001-11-15 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, November 15, 2001, at 05:21  AM, Bob Rapp wrote:

 I'm particularly interested in the responses. I personally think that
 digital is a long way from replacing BW. I doubt that there are many
 printers available at any cost that can do justice to the full grey 
 scale of
 a BW print.

I'm interested, too, but I'll tell you what the kicker is here: bigger 
prints.

I am perfectly happy with the results I get on the Epson 7500 using 
black ink only printing a 35mm Delta 3200 neg at 8x10.  On the other 
hand, an APX 25 neg printed 5x7 looks grainy and the tonal range seems 
compressed.  This is because rather than using different shades of gray, 
as the quad tone inksets do, the printer just uses one ink: dark black.  
This leads to patterning resembling grain in smooth mid-tones.  However, 
if the image is not smooth, and the scan reveals detail in the film's 
grain, the resulting print can be quite excellent (though not equivalent 
to a fibre based print).  I would imagine that a 4000dpi scan from Tri-X 
could make a nice 11x14.

The bw hockey prints on the wall at the store were done this way.

I keep considering moving to quad tone on my old Epson 1200, but I still 
haven't seen a result that I've been wowed by.  And if I'm going to 
spend $500 on a conversion kit, I want to be wowed.

I do find that quite often duotones printed with the full colour inkset 
look fabulous.

-Aaron
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Digital BW Photography

2001-11-14 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Color - that's pretty much what everyone is discussing when discussing
digital cameras. Seems that the cameras only photograph in color but, in
order to make BW pictures, the image has to be desaturated.  Is that
correct?  When I've seen  desaturated color the tones don't seem to be
the same as with true BW photos.  So, the digital dunce asks, how close
to true BW film photography is desaturated digital color imaging? 
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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