Re: [Phono-L] Victor Tone-Arm assistance needed
Success!! I was already using grease (nasty black stuff, for cars with disc brakes) so was disappointed by the use grease! replies - HOWEVER, as 100% of the replies were use grease, that had to be the answer. My grease was not sticky enough. I dug out a little tube of Bulb Grease, unopened for maybe 15 years, and put some in the bearing race of the arm, AFTER having all the parts in the fridge for an hour. Also turned the a/c up full-blast, and tried not to heat the parts with my hands. That stuff was like almost-dry rubber cement - the balls did not move from their groove, and the goo was strong enough to hold the steel plate in place while I slipped the assembly into its mounting hole slid the cover on. Many thanks to youse all! I promise not to fiddle with the brass reproducer - not broken, no fixin'. Now, I will clean out the sticky bulb grease look into that F-1 hard felt . ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Victor Tone-Arm assistance needed
McMaster-Carr sells it and it is real wool, not polyester. On 08/03/2012 02:19 AM, DanKj wrote: Success!! I was already using grease (nasty black stuff, for cars with disc brakes) so was disappointed by the use grease! replies - HOWEVER, as 100% of the replies were use grease, that had to be the answer. My grease was not sticky enough. I dug out a little tube of Bulb Grease, unopened for maybe 15 years, and put some in the bearing race of the arm, AFTER having all the parts in the fridge for an hour. Also turned the a/c up full-blast, and tried not to heat the parts with my hands. That stuff was like almost-dry rubber cement - the balls did not move from their groove, and the goo was strong enough to hold the steel plate in place while I slipped the assembly into its mounting hole slid the cover on. Many thanks to youse all! I promise not to fiddle with the brass reproducer - not broken, no fixin'. Now, I will clean out the sticky bulb grease look into that F-1 hard felt . ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel
Kenneth, Can you send a photo? The mandrel itself is press fit on so if only the mandrel is bad that can be replaced as the home and triump mandrels are all the same and easy to find. If the rod itself is damaged that can be machined as the end gate pivot is adjustible. If the pivot is messed up again it can be machined. Ron Sitko can replace the mandrel on your shaft. The mandrel and shaft are not one piece. You can often find mint condition 2 minute mandrels for two minute machines, I have seen them sell for around $50 on eBay. TDB is a Model B Triumph upgrade mandrel, but if only the mandrel is damaged that is very easy to replace. I would suggest in the future when you have a problem describe it first so that you can get the best advice on how to fix it instead of making assumptions that may be a lot more costly. Steve Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 22:43:12 -0700 From: onatorr...@yahoo.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel Steve, the mandrel on my Triumph is 4 10/16 as close as I can masure and on it is stamped TDB and maybe a very faint I but very hard to tell. Looks like someone hit the mandrel on the gate end and put it slightly out of round so I fear putting a 2 minute wax record on it that it might crack. I would really like to replace this with one in very respectable condition as my machine is in very nice original condition. Maybe someone could help me with this and sell me one they have. Kenneth From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 4:39 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel Hello Kenneth, On the mandrel as you are facing the machine and the crank is on you right the markings on the mandrel will be on the left of the mandel on the side with the two holes. On the feed screw it is marked on the left as well. Most people never notice the markings, what model of Triumph do you have? Below is my upgrade mandrel article. I included the info on the Triumph C but with so few known it is very unlikely you will ever see one. Steve I was able to find a copy of a letter Edison sent to his dealers telling about the different mandrel upgrades for the home and triumphs. If the dealers needed a letter, how much more will this information help us? Here are some things that I have found from the letter and myself. The lengths of the triumph feed screws are as follows: The A is 4 27/32 and is marked T D A I and TA on the feedscrew and the mandrel. The B is 5 and is marked T D B I, TBI, or just a large TB on the mandrel and the end of the feed screw is also marked. The C is 5 1/4 and is marked T D C I on the feedscrew and the mandrel. I have never seen a C except for a pulley. The D and E (and F I assume) is marked T D only. The pulley is marked with an A B C or D. Homes: The home is marked H B I, IHB or H A B I for the A B and H C for C. The home D and higher is marked H D. If you put a Triumph B mandrel on a Triumph A you have to move the upper bedplate to the right all the way to compensate or the belt hits where it goes through the lower bedplate. My Triumph A has a B mandrel on it. I believe the pulleys are the same, and think the shifters on the C kits have the lip like the D and higher does, but I have only seen one home C and one triumph C with the kit so I can’t say for certain. Less than 7 Triumph C’s are known and the Home C is very uncommon. Until I saw this letter on eBay (I did not win it but purchased a photocopy from the winner) I did not know they made 5 different ones. If anyone wants a copy of the letter e-mail to them please contact me. Steve Terry Baer: The model C used a unique mandrel assembly with captured bearing. Picture an early two minute mandrel shaft. Remove the mandrel and turn down the area under the mandrel to about 5/16 leaving the larger 5/8 feedscrew. Now slip on a bearing that is 5/8 OD 5/16 ID. Now slip on a mandrel with smaller 5/16 holes on both ends. Now slip the whole assembly in the top works. Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:22:10 -0700 From: onatorr...@yahoo.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel Steve, Where are they marked on the mandrel/feed screw? I will look again but I didn't notice any markings. Ken From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 8:13 AM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel There are three different lengths. There are three for the triumph and two for the home and they are all marked on the mandrel and the feed screw, which do you have? Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012
Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel
Steve, Ya, I will get you some pictures tomarrow. I did not know the mandral is press fit and could be taken off the rod. The rod is in good condition so that will not need to be replaced. So I learned something today. I am so thankful for Phono-L with all the info I get to read and new thinghs I learn. Thank you very much Steve. I really appreciate all the help. You really saved my neck in not blowing my money on something I would not need sence it is only the mandrel that I can change out. Expect pictures tomarrow. Kenneth From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Friday, August 3, 2012 8:45 AM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel Kenneth, Can you send a photo? The mandrel itself is press fit on so if only the mandrel is bad that can be replaced as the home and triump mandrels are all the same and easy to find. If the rod itself is damaged that can be machined as the end gate pivot is adjustible. If the pivot is messed up again it can be machined. Ron Sitko can replace the mandrel on your shaft. The mandrel and shaft are not one piece. You can often find mint condition 2 minute mandrels for two minute machines, I have seen them sell for around $50 on eBay. TDB is a Model B Triumph upgrade mandrel, but if only the mandrel is damaged that is very easy to replace. I would suggest in the future when you have a problem describe it first so that you can get the best advice on how to fix it instead of making assumptions that may be a lot more costly. Steve Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 22:43:12 -0700 From: onatorr...@yahoo.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel Steve, the mandrel on my Triumph is 4 10/16 as close as I can masure and on it is stamped TDB and maybe a very faint I but very hard to tell. Looks like someone hit the mandrel on the gate end and put it slightly out of round so I fear putting a 2 minute wax record on it that it might crack. I would really like to replace this with one in very respectable condition as my machine is in very nice original condition. Maybe someone could help me with this and sell me one they have. Kenneth From: Steven Medved steve_nor...@msn.com To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 4:39 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Looking for triumph mandrel Hello Kenneth, On the mandrel as you are facing the machine and the crank is on you right the markings on the mandrel will be on the left of the mandel on the side with the two holes. On the feed screw it is marked on the left as well. Most people never notice the markings, what model of Triumph do you have? Below is my upgrade mandrel article. I included the info on the Triumph C but with so few known it is very unlikely you will ever see one. Steve I was able to find a copy of a letter Edison sent to his dealers telling about the different mandrel upgrades for the home and triumphs. If the dealers needed a letter, how much more will this information help us? Here are some things that I have found from the letter and myself. The lengths of the triumph feed screws are as follows: The A is 4 27/32 and is marked T D A I and TA on the feedscrew and the mandrel. The B is 5 and is marked T D B I, TBI, or just a large TB on the mandrel and the end of the feed screw is also marked. The C is 5 1/4 and is marked T D C I on the feedscrew and the mandrel. I have never seen a C except for a pulley. The D and E (and F I assume) is marked T D only. The pulley is marked with an A B C or D. Homes: The home is marked H B I, IHB or H A B I for the A B and H C for C. The home D and higher is marked H D. If you put a Triumph B mandrel on a Triumph A you have to move the upper bedplate to the right all the way to compensate or the belt hits where it goes through the lower bedplate. My Triumph A has a B mandrel on it. I believe the pulleys are the same, and think the shifters on the C kits have the lip like the D and higher does, but I have only seen one home C and one triumph C with the kit so I can’t say for certain. Less than 7 Triumph C’s are known and the Home C is very uncommon. Until I saw this letter on eBay (I did not win it but purchased a photocopy from the winner) I did not know they made 5 different ones. If anyone wants a copy of the letter e-mail to them please contact me. Steve Terry Baer: The model C used a unique mandrel assembly with captured bearing. Picture an early two minute mandrel shaft. Remove the mandrel and turn down the area under the mandrel to about 5/16 leaving the larger 5/8 feedscrew. Now slip on a bearing that is 5/8 OD 5/16 ID. Now slip on a mandrel with smaller 5/16 holes on both ends. Now slip the whole assembly in the
