Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions-How to develop ortho
--- jmeyerh...@aol.com wrote: How do you develop ortho film for continuous tone? Thank you...j Use dilute Dektol. I use Dektol 1+15, though I may opt for 1+10 through 1+20 depending upon the scene and its final purpose (I might use 1+10 if I am going to print with the Van Dyke process). Best thing to do is to experiment. Cheers- george = Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org __ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions-How to develop ortho
How do you develop ortho film for continuous tone? Thank you...j
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
Hi: For my pinhole stuff I mostly shoot 8x10, but I use ortho film but develop it as continuous tone film. My 8x10 film costs me CA$70.00 for 100 sheets I contact print these images, usually on cyanotype. This can actually make things very convenient. I recently returned from a vacation. As an experiment I packed two pinhole cameras, a pack of 8x10 ortho film, developer, fix a safe light, 3 trays, a small piece of upholstory foam, some large metal spring clips and some cyanotype paper I had coated. We were staying with friends. I asked ahead of time if I could use their laundry room as a makeshift darkroom. I was able to load my cameras, and process the film in the laundry room. All I needed to do was plug in my safelight and put the trays on the counter (a freezer actually). They had a laundry sink as well which made things very convenient. I dried the film by hanging it from a hanger with a wooden clothes pin. To make prints I found a piece of glass and a piece of scrap plywood - a contact frame. To print I sandwiched the 8x10 neg, cyanotype paper and foam between the glass and the wood and clipped it together. I then set it out in the sun for 10 minutes and then developed the cyanotype in a tray of tap water, and hung it to dry. I left my friends with a small collection of 8x10 and 4x10 cyanotype prints. They were enthralled with how one can make fascinating pictures with the simplest technology. Large format orhto and cyanotype make for a very simple and convenient combination. No expensive darkroom necessary - just a room that can be made dark and the sun :) Contact printing large pinhole negs gives pretty sharp looking images. If you want to try alternative processes cyanotype is the cheapest and easiest. Gord On Mon, 12 Aug 2002, Fox, Robert wrote: Short introduction: I'm an amateur photographer in the Washington DC area shooting mostly medium format on-location portraits and architectural stuff. I shoot mostly BW print, but also use transparencies (usually Fuji Provia 100). I am fascinated by the potential of pinhole photography and am looking to buy a pre-made camera after seeing the beautiful examples on the resource page. I use mostly all-manual cameras, so getting into pinhole feels pretty natural. I hate the way modern electronics can get in the way of the image making process. Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10? I suppose it would be easy enough to do both, but I'm wondering about people's preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard roll film. I must say I am blown away by the quality and creativeness of the images I have seen on the April 28 pinhole day gallery -- really inspiring! One of the best photographic events I've ever seen -- simple and powerful. Anyway, I'm here to learn and am glad to participate. R.J. - Gordon J. Holtslander Dept. of Biology hol...@duke.usask.ca112 Science Place http://duke.usask.ca/~holtsgUniversity of Saskatchewan Tel (306) 966-4433 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Fax (306) 966-4461 Canada S7N 5E2 -
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
William Erickson wrote: The rolls are just in there loose, with a pressure plate that tends to push them out of position. The lid seems to be engineered so closely that it does hang up when you try to put it on. Worse than trying to load a Leica. You need good vision to see the numbers on the back of the film because the hole is so small and deep. Hi I have the Zero Image 2000 (6X6 version) and I find it fairly easy to load. Place the feed spool on the brass knob, pull out some of the paper leader, feed it into the slot on the take-up spool, give it a turn, place the take up spool on the brass knob. Now use two fingers to create tension between the two spools and slide on the back. Creating tension stops the paper from buckling and catching on the back. Place the top on the camera and turn the winding knob until it lines up with the groove on the take-up spool and it falls into place. Tighten the lock down knob and you are ready to advance to first frame. Hopefully this makes some sense, though I do work as a motion picture camera assistant and compared to some movie camera loading and threading still cameras don't pose much of a challenge. I do agree that it is sometimes difficult to read the number especially in low light due to the hole being so deep, but hey it's made of wood. I do like this camera but do find it too fast (if this makes sense) in bright sunlight. You need 50 ASA film or you find yourself with less than one second exposures. --Mark
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
William, Thanks for the feedback -- can you tell me why the 6x9 multi format Zero was so hard to load? I've heard there can be some difficulty in getting the lid on over the film rolls. The results I've seen from this camera have been very nice, although 5x4 beckons! R.J. R.J. Fox Member Reference Team Member Communications Mgmt. (202) 434-3429; r...@aarp.org
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
I just spent a week helping a friend load his new multiformat zero etc. What a pain! As for 4x5 vs 8x10, 4x5 gives you a lot more choices. 8x10 satisfies the purist. Look at choices at www.pinholeresource.com. - Original Message - From: Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org To: Pinhole List (E-mail) pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 8:20 AM Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions Short introduction: I'm an amateur photographer in the Washington DC area shooting mostly medium format on-location portraits and architectural stuff. I shoot mostly BW print, but also use transparencies (usually Fuji Provia 100). I am fascinated by the potential of pinhole photography and am looking to buy a pre-made camera after seeing the beautiful examples on the resource page. I use mostly all-manual cameras, so getting into pinhole feels pretty natural. I hate the way modern electronics can get in the way of the image making process. Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10? I suppose it would be easy enough to do both, but I'm wondering about people's preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard roll film. I must say I am blown away by the quality and creativeness of the images I have seen on the April 28 pinhole day gallery -- really inspiring! One of the best photographic events I've ever seen -- simple and powerful. Anyway, I'm here to learn and am glad to participate. R.J.
RE: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
George, Thanks your the links and information -- your images are outstanding. Your comments about the extra costs of doing 8x10 are definitely a big issue. I don't think I'll jump into alternative processes to get started, so roll film should be fine for now. I'm looking forward to a new way of seeing the world! R.J. -Original Message- From: George L Smyth [mailto:glsm...@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 9:43 AM To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions --- Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org wrote: [clip] Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10? I suppose it would be easy enough to do both, but I'm wondering about people's preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard roll film. 8X10 film is four times more expensive than 4X5 film (makes sense). The bulk of an 8X10 camera, along with the slide holders, make things much more difficult to work with. Then again, if you are going to use an alternative process to print, then you will probably want a larger negative to work with. I've got some examples at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Projects/BearSkins/BearSkins.htm if you would like to take a look. An alternative to regular 8X10 film is to use halftone film of that size, which costs considerably less. The image Jimmy (found at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Images/PinholeImages.htm) was made with this film. I would also direct you to the Pinhole FAQ located at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Articles/FAQ/pin_faq.htm. There you will find enough information to get you going in the right direction. Cheers - george = Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
- Original Message - From: Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10? 4x5 is more, well, practical: smaller, less costly to operate, easier to carry and you don't have to get a second mortage to buy an enlarger (if you wanted larger than 8x10 prints, and eventually you would), 4x5 enlargers are readily available. Also, you could buy an inexpensive real 4x5 camera and use it for pinhole work, i.e.: grey calumet, super graphic, any of the other graphic press cameras, etc. I suppose it would be easy enough to do both That's right. My first 8x10 was a cardboard box. but I'm wondering about people's preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard roll film. You can't go wrong with a Zero2000 they are truly functional pieces of art! Welcome to the list. Guillermo
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions
--- Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org wrote: [clip] Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10? I suppose it would be easy enough to do both, but I'm wondering about people's preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard roll film. 8X10 film is four times more expensive than 4X5 film (makes sense). The bulk of an 8X10 camera, along with the slide holders, make things much more difficult to work with. Then again, if you are going to use an alternative process to print, then you will probably want a larger negative to work with. I've got some examples at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Projects/BearSkins/BearSkins.htm if you would like to take a look. An alternative to regular 8X10 film is to use halftone film of that size, which costs considerably less. The image Jimmy (found at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Images/PinholeImages.htm) was made with this film. I would also direct you to the Pinhole FAQ located at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Articles/FAQ/pin_faq.htm. There you will find enough information to get you going in the right direction. Cheers - george = Handmade Photographic Images - http://GLSmyth.com DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org __ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com
[pinhole-discussion] newbie question
Hello all! I am new to pinholes and I have a question on exposure I was hoping someone could answer. I am in the process of making a camera with a .34mm pinhole and a focal length of 75mm. I want to use illfochrome paper instead of negative or film. I can't figure out my exposure because I don't know what ASA to rate the paper. Does anyone have any tips that would help me to determine my exposure time? Many thanks in advance... Glenn
Re: [pinhole-discussion] newbie
Matti, Welcome aboard.If you are a pinhole nut ,like the rest of us,you should feel right at home here :) I look forward to seeing some of your photos. Harry A HREF=http://www.figurefoto.com/;Figurefoto.com/A
[pinhole-discussion] newbie
hi all I joined this list last weekend and been lurking a week, so it's time to introduce myself. I've a computer engineer by profession and been photographing since mid-seventies. Last winter I got interested in pinhole-photography. Original reason was that I read Ansel Adams' The Camera and made after that a short search in the Internet about pinhole cameras and found a lot of ideas and pictures etc. After that I've built several cameras from tea boxes, cookie tins and 35 mm film cans. I've been using Kodak Polymax RC II, but it's been snowless winter here in Finland, so cookie tin cam needs several hours to expose a paper negative, so I mounted a used disposable camera in one of them and loaded it with APX 400. But the results are horrible: using an electric tape as shutter is not a good solution, the cookie tin vibrates too much and the focal length is too long also. Using just a pinhole in a 35mm SLR body cap works much much better. Now I've planning to build a 120 film pinhole camera, but let's see what thats going to be. (and when :-) Happy holidays to all and excuse some newbie questions: I have no idea what zone plate means and also how print swap is organized. I'd be very happy if someone could give me some light (e.g from a pinhole :-) best -matti mjkos...@sci.fi
