[Quantum Owners] Re: Fire extinguisher

2017-05-30 Thread calum mcpherson 
Bought an extinguisher today after reading this.

On Monday, 22 May 2017 21:59:34 UTC+1, geoff ward wrote:
>
> Had a very scary few moments this morning, just after getting the 2+2 
> mot'd. when I went to start it up, it did not start but there was a wisp of 
> smoke from under the bonnet. I grabbed my fire extinguisher from the boot 
> and opened the bonnet to see flames at the back of the engine. Thankfully a 
> quick blast of dry powder and the fire was out. Very scary and I count my 
> self very lucky that I could tackle the fire so promptly I could very 
> easily have lost the 2+2. The reason for the fire, a fuel hose had come 
> lose. The good news is that the fire did very little damage, and after 
> fixing the hose, I was able to start the car and drive home. 
>
> Geoff Ward.   
>

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[Quantum Owners] Re: Edward (Stroke Survivor) driving End to end in 24 hrs.

2017-05-30 Thread calum mcpherson 
Donated, and good luck guys

On Tuesday, 30 May 2017 08:43:56 UTC+1, andyheaton64 wrote:
>
> To all Qoc members
> Please support this Charity event and help Eddie Ruskin and I achieve 
> success in this event.
> Many thanks in advance
> Andy Heaton 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "eru...@blueyonder.co.uk "  >
> Date: 30 May 2017 02:34
> Subject: Edward (Stroke Survivor) driving End to end in 24 hrs. 
> To: "Andy Heaton" 
> Cc: 
>
> Hi Andy,
>> I have not got Steve Kodz email. Could you forward this on please.
>> Thank.you
>>
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> You can help Edward Ruskin raise money for this great cause by donating 
>> directly to their fundraising page - 
>> https://www.justgiving.com/Edward-Ruskin?utm_source=Sharethis_medium=fundraisingpage_content=Edward-Ruskin_campaign=pfp-email
>> .
>>
>> JustGiving sends your donation straight to Bristol Area Stroke Foundation 
>> and automatically reclaims Gift Aid if you are a UK taxpayer, so your 
>> donation is worth even more.
>>
>> Thank you for your support!
>>
>> Eddie
>
>

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Window Goes Down But Not Up

2017-05-30 Thread 'Andy Cowley (Q2-379)' via Quantum Owners Group 
Both & there is no difference between the doors being closed or open

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 7:12:07 PM UTC+1, reckless_b wrote:
>
> When you have tried the operation of the window has it been with the door 
> open or closed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 28 May 2017, at 23:24, 'Andy Cowley (Q2-379)' via Quantum Owners Group <
> quantu...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
> Both of the electric windows in my 2+2 are extremely slow & stick about 
> half way when moving up. They then move with a bit of "manual assistance". 
>
> I've swapped the complete mechanism/motor on the passenger side & it's 
> still the same.
>
> Having checked the wiring I can't see any relay for them. Should there be 
> one to give the motors a "boost" or alternatively do the window channel 
> rubbers
> swell up & grab the glass to stop it moving?
>
> I've tried the usual tricks with silicon grease or washing up liquid in 
> the runners, but neither have made any difference.
>
> Anyone got any ideas?
>
> Andy C
>
> On Friday, 26 May 2017 13:45:41 UTC+1, Steve Kodz wrote: 
>>
>> In the past I've been able to 'fix' the broken plastic clip. If I 
>> remember 
>> correctly you just need to find a way to attach the wire to the slider. 
>>
>> Regards, 
>> Steve 
>> -- 
>> h4-turbo.co.uk 
>> quantumowners.club 
>>
>>
>>
>> On 26 May 2017 13:24:38  wrote: 
>>
>> > If you can lift the glass by hand (from below) then it's the plastic 
>> clip on 
>> > the runner/regulator that has given up. The only solution is fit a new 
>> > runner/regulator. 
>> > If you can't move the glass by hand then it's either a knackered runner 
>> > motor (see fix above) or an electrical problem. 
>> > 
>> > Chris G 
>> > 
>> > -Original Message- 
>> > From: SMIDG3T 
>> > Sent: Friday, May 26, 2017 9:49 AM 
>> > To: Quantum Owners Group 
>> > Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Window Goes Down But Not Up 
>> > 
>> > Sorry to revive this thread but it's happened again and this time it 
>> hasn't 
>> > fixed itself (unlike the previous two times). 
>> > 
>> > I have access under the door card but I don't really know what I'm 
>> looking 
>> > for. Could someone provide a step-by-step solution? What wires to look 
>> at 
>> > and the connectors. I have a few pictures. 
>> > 
>> > http://imgur.com/a/uNqeo 
>> > 
>> > -- 
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>> > Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club 
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>> > Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread Mark 
Hello Chris. The clutch is pretty much brand new. So not that.
Mark

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Window Goes Down But Not Up

2017-05-30 Thread bill 
When you have tried the operation of the window has it been with the door open 
or closed.

Sent from my iPhone

On 28 May 2017, at 23:24, 'Andy Cowley (Q2-379)' via Quantum Owners Group 
> wrote:

Both of the electric windows in my 2+2 are extremely slow & stick about half 
way when moving up. They then move with a bit of "manual assistance".

I've swapped the complete mechanism/motor on the passenger side & it's still 
the same.

Having checked the wiring I can't see any relay for them. Should there be one 
to give the motors a "boost" or alternatively do the window channel rubbers
swell up & grab the glass to stop it moving?

I've tried the usual tricks with silicon grease or washing up liquid in the 
runners, but neither have made any difference.

Anyone got any ideas?

Andy C

On Friday, 26 May 2017 13:45:41 UTC+1, Steve Kodz wrote:
In the past I've been able to 'fix' the broken plastic clip. If I remember
correctly you just need to find a way to attach the wire to the slider.

Regards,
Steve
--
h4-turbo.co.uk
quantumowners.club



On 26 May 2017 13:24:38  wrote:

> If you can lift the glass by hand (from below) then it's the plastic clip on
> the runner/regulator that has given up. The only solution is fit a new
> runner/regulator.
> If you can't move the glass by hand then it's either a knackered runner
> motor (see fix above) or an electrical problem.
>
> Chris G
>
> -Original Message-
> From: SMIDG3T
> Sent: Friday, May 26, 2017 9:49 AM
> To: Quantum Owners Group
> Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Window Goes Down But Not Up
>
> Sorry to revive this thread but it's happened again and this time it hasn't
> fixed itself (unlike the previous two times).
>
> I have access under the door card but I don't really know what I'm looking
> for. Could someone provide a step-by-step solution? What wires to look at
> and the connectors. I have a few pictures.
>
> http://imgur.com/a/uNqeo
>
> --
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
> within this or related message(s).
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> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread chris.quant 
How old is the clutch?

They only have a life span of about 100,000 miles.

Chris G

From: Mark 
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 9:41 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Cc: holden.phil...@sky.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

Hello All,

Been reading this quite closely as I have a not to dissimilar problem. My 
clutch bite point is quite low, I can select gears ok but setting off in 1st 
can be jerky. I have a 'modified' (as per QSC build manual) pedal box. Clutch, 
adjuster and, I've been told by previous owner, cable are new. My 1st thought 
for my issue was down to the modification not quite been right and I 'tweaked' 
this to no avail. I got hold of an unmodified pedal box and fitted this to find 
that I couldn't select any gear. The adjuster seems to operate ok, but not sure 
what else to try. I tried the above of putting a 'spacer' in, but no change.

Anybody any ideas as to what would cause either a low bite point or the fact 
that I can't select gears?

Thanks
Mark



On Saturday, May 13, 2017 at 5:46:54 PM UTC+1, bemmie wrote:
  Gents,


  Firstly, thank you for all your responses/information and advice.


  Initially I decided to go with the 'easy' fix first as per Jims e-mail.


  Before my long suffering assistant, a.k.a. the wife, arrived in the garage I 
tried to lift the clutch pedal but it wouldn't move above its rest position. 
However under the bonnet I could freely pull the cable inner out for a good few 
inches.


  With my assistant in place we then tried various methods of pressing/lifting 
the pedal and pulling the cable but none of them resulted in a clicking noise 
with the pawl re-setting when the pedal was pressed. 


  In view of this I decided to assume that the problem lay with the 
cable/pawl/pedal and that the cable needed to be shortened in some way.


  For all those with a sensitive/engineering background please skip the next 
paragraph.


  With the cable free I slipped a washer over the cable nipple and then found a 
short length (1.25 inches) of narrow bore hose. I split this down its length 
and was then able to push that over the cable between the nipple and the 
washer. This was then fastened in place with jubilee clips. Theoretically the 
nipple wouldn't pull through the hose and the washer would stop the hose going 
through the hole in the lever. A quick press of the clutch pedal revealed that 
it worked. 


  I then started the engine and the gear change was fine and it was still fine 
after letting the engine warm through. 


  Arming myself with my AA card and a mobile phone I took to the open road and 
after a journey of 30-35 miles the gear change was still fine. It may have been 
imagination and it may have got a bit notchy towards the end. It may be that a 
much longer run reveals that it is notchy and I may need a longer bit of hose 
to shorten the cable a bit more. In the meantime I am going to enjoy the car in 
our unexpectedly good weather 'up north'. 


  I do have plans to remove the dash and re-spray it once the nights start 
drawing in so when I have it all apart I will investigate the segment/pawl 
issue further at that time - unless it stops working in the meantime.

  I do recall that when I was building the car Quantum did send me an 
alternative segment which overcame the problem of there not being enough 
movement in the pedal but I haven't been able to find the paperwork on that 
yet. 

  Once again thanks for all your assistance.

  Regards

  Phil



--
  From: Jim Hearne 
  To: 'Bill Allison' via Quantum Owners Group  
  Sent: Monday, 8 May 2017, 21:59
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change


  >With the linkage in good condition it's essential to clamp it so that the 
operation of the gear-lever assembly is "in sync" with that of the gearbox.

  That's really only true on the Mk1 and early Mk2 Fiesta gearboxes.
  These had the "gate" for the gearchange in the bottom of the gearlever and 
there was nothing in the gearbox to stop you trying to move the gearchange into 
incorrect positions.
  So alignment of the gearlever to the gearbox was critical.

  The later Mk2 gearboxes had the "gate" in the gearbox, you can move the 
gearlever anywhere if it's not connected to the gearbox .
  This setup is much more tolerant of misalignment.

  Now, if you mix the early gearbox with the late gearchange (no gate at all) 
or a late gearbox with an early gearchange (gates in both) then you will do 
really well to get it to work.

  Jim



  On 08/05/2017 20:41, 'Bill Allison' via Quantum Owners Group wrote:

Phil


Apologies for delayed reply, I accidentally didn't send this and just 
noticed it in my Drafts folder...


If you can select reverse gear when stationary without it crunching then 
the clutch is not dragging, also it's only necessary to reset the ratchet and 
pawl if the bite point is too high

Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread Susan and Martin Scott 
I've just 'checked' mine (which is giving similar problems of notchiness). 
With an assistant pressing the pedal down there is a mere 6mm between clutch 
arm and gearbox casing. With the clutch still pressed and both hands on the 
arm I cannot move it any further rearward, and I believe it's at the limit 
of travel. I can only conclude (with mine) that the problem lies with the 
diaphragm springs becoming weak. The same problem I had years ago with an 
Escort, and my Wife's Fiat Grande Punto had after 8k miles from new. The 
Quantum clutch was a genuine Ford Main Dealer one, bought as a complete kit 
and ok for the first 16k.

Martin
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark" 

To: "Quantum Owners Group" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change


Thanks Jim. Pic's would be great if you have. Is one version more common 
than the other?
I don't think this is my issue though as before trying the un-modified pedal 
box I was able to change gear. Also previously I've had a different gearbox 
& thus release bearing and don't remember that been noticeably better. Need 
to still check what I have on though to make sure I haven't got a mix.


Mark

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread Mark 
Thanks Jim. Pic's would be great if you have. Is one version more common than 
the other?
I don't think this is my issue though as before trying the un-modified pedal 
box I was able to change gear. Also previously I've had a different gearbox & 
thus release bearing and don't remember that been noticeably better. Need to 
still check what I have on though to make sure I haven't got a mix.

Mark

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread Jim Hearne 

Hi Mark,

I don't believe the low lift clutch is low bite point, as far as i know the 
operation is the same, not sure what "low lift" signifies, just the 
differences between the 2
It seems to have been random which cars were fitted with low lift clutches 
and which weren't.
The clutch plate is the same as far as i know, only the clutch cover and 
release bearing are different between low lift and normal.


A low lift clutch usually has low lift printed on it.
I will see if i can find some pictures later.

I seem to remember if you put a normal release bearing on with a low lift 
clutch cover then the clutch is always disengaged.
If you did the opposite you will get an awful lot of clutch travel before it 
disengages, if it will disengage at all.


Jim

-Original Message- 
From: Mark

Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 3:12 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

Thanks Jim & Dave.

Jim - when you say low lift do you mean low bite point? So the clutch plate 
is the same on both, but the pressure plate & realese bearing are partnered. 
What cars where fitted with the low lift?


Dave - what noticeable difference is the between the quadrants?

Mark

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread Mark 
Thanks Jim & Dave.

Jim - when you say low lift do you mean low bite point? So the clutch plate is 
the same on both, but the pressure plate & realese bearing are partnered. What 
cars where fitted with the low lift?

Dave - what noticeable difference is the between the quadrants?

Mark

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

2017-05-30 Thread Jim Hearne 
There are 2 types of clutch for the CVH engine, normal and low lift.

The clutch cover and release bearing are different for the 2 versions.
Mixing the different cover and release bearings will cause you clutch problems.

The difference is that the normal clutch has a domed end to the release bearing 
surface that presses against the clutch cover fingers, and and straight ends on 
the fingers.
The low lift version has a flat face on the release bearing surface and curved 
ends on the clutch cover fingers.

Another good reason for always changing the clutch, the clutch cover and the 
release bearing at the same time.

Jim
From: Mark 
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 9:41 PM
To: Quantum Owners Group 
Cc: holden.phil...@sky.com 
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change

Hello All,

Been reading this quite closely as I have a not to dissimilar problem. My 
clutch bite point is quite low, I can select gears ok but setting off in 1st 
can be jerky. I have a 'modified' (as per QSC build manual) pedal box. Clutch, 
adjuster and, I've been told by previous owner, cable are new. My 1st thought 
for my issue was down to the modification not quite been right and I 'tweaked' 
this to no avail. I got hold of an unmodified pedal box and fitted this to find 
that I couldn't select any gear. The adjuster seems to operate ok, but not sure 
what else to try. I tried the above of putting a 'spacer' in, but no change.

Anybody any ideas as to what would cause either a low bite point or the fact 
that I can't select gears?

Thanks
Mark



On Saturday, May 13, 2017 at 5:46:54 PM UTC+1, bemmie wrote:
  Gents,


  Firstly, thank you for all your responses/information and advice.


  Initially I decided to go with the 'easy' fix first as per Jims e-mail.


  Before my long suffering assistant, a.k.a. the wife, arrived in the garage I 
tried to lift the clutch pedal but it wouldn't move above its rest position. 
However under the bonnet I could freely pull the cable inner out for a good few 
inches.


  With my assistant in place we then tried various methods of pressing/lifting 
the pedal and pulling the cable but none of them resulted in a clicking noise 
with the pawl re-setting when the pedal was pressed. 


  In view of this I decided to assume that the problem lay with the 
cable/pawl/pedal and that the cable needed to be shortened in some way.


  For all those with a sensitive/engineering background please skip the next 
paragraph.


  With the cable free I slipped a washer over the cable nipple and then found a 
short length (1.25 inches) of narrow bore hose. I split this down its length 
and was then able to push that over the cable between the nipple and the 
washer. This was then fastened in place with jubilee clips. Theoretically the 
nipple wouldn't pull through the hose and the washer would stop the hose going 
through the hole in the lever. A quick press of the clutch pedal revealed that 
it worked. 


  I then started the engine and the gear change was fine and it was still fine 
after letting the engine warm through. 


  Arming myself with my AA card and a mobile phone I took to the open road and 
after a journey of 30-35 miles the gear change was still fine. It may have been 
imagination and it may have got a bit notchy towards the end. It may be that a 
much longer run reveals that it is notchy and I may need a longer bit of hose 
to shorten the cable a bit more. In the meantime I am going to enjoy the car in 
our unexpectedly good weather 'up north'. 


  I do have plans to remove the dash and re-spray it once the nights start 
drawing in so when I have it all apart I will investigate the segment/pawl 
issue further at that time - unless it stops working in the meantime.

  I do recall that when I was building the car Quantum did send me an 
alternative segment which overcame the problem of there not being enough 
movement in the pedal but I haven't been able to find the paperwork on that 
yet. 

  Once again thanks for all your assistance.

  Regards

  Phil



--
  From: Jim Hearne 
  To: 'Bill Allison' via Quantum Owners Group  
  Sent: Monday, 8 May 2017, 21:59
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Gear Change


  >With the linkage in good condition it's essential to clamp it so that the 
operation of the gear-lever assembly is "in sync" with that of the gearbox.

  That's really only true on the Mk1 and early Mk2 Fiesta gearboxes.
  These had the "gate" for the gearchange in the bottom of the gearlever and 
there was nothing in the gearbox to stop you trying to move the gearchange into 
incorrect positions.
  So alignment of the gearlever to the gearbox was critical.

  The later Mk2 gearboxes had the "gate" in the gearbox, you can move the 
gearlever anywhere if it's not connected to the gearbox .
  This setup is much more tolerant of misalignment.

  Now, if you mix the early gearbox with

[Quantum Owners] Fwd: Edward (Stroke Survivor) driving End to end in 24 hrs.

2017-05-30 Thread Andy Heaton 
To all Qoc members
Please support this Charity event and help Eddie Ruskin and I achieve
success in this event.
Many thanks in advance
Andy Heaton
-- Forwarded message --
From: "erus...@blueyonder.co.uk" 
Date: 30 May 2017 02:34
Subject: Edward (Stroke Survivor) driving End to end in 24 hrs.
To: "Andy Heaton" 
Cc:

Hi Andy,
> I have not got Steve Kodz email. Could you forward this on please.
> Thank.you
>
>
> Hello,
>
> You can help Edward Ruskin raise money for this great cause by donating
> directly to their fundraising page - https://www.justgiving.com/
> Edward-Ruskin?utm_source=Sharethis_medium=fundraisingpage_content=
> Edward-Ruskin_campaign=pfp-email.
>
> JustGiving sends your donation straight to Bristol Area Stroke Foundation
> and automatically reclaims Gift Aid if you are a UK taxpayer, so your
> donation is worth even more.
>
> Thank you for your support!
>
> Eddie

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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