[RBW] Re: FS: Late Spring Cleaning
This is what is left after the first day. I have dropped some of the prices to help this stuff find a home. Still looking to put this stuff in the hands of people that will use it well. If I included the phrase cost of shipping in an item, I mean to convey that I am only trying to recoup the shipping cost. If you happen to be local to the SF Bay area (either temporarily or long term), and we can negotiate a transfer, I am happy to give the items denoted by cost of shipping away. Sorry if you're not local. Berthoud Cork Saddle $150 Has perhaps 150 miles on it. I can't find a blemish anywhere. I don't treat my saddles with Proofhide or anything else. Berthoud Cork saddles sell for $232/22 5 + shipping at Wallbike/Peter White Cycles. Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem - $30 Mounted, ridden less than 50 miles. Not a scratch anywhere. Brand V Boxy Bar Bag - $50 Used during the Grizzly Peak Century. No stains, rips, tears, etc. I will throw in a Cyclo-Active Map Case (attaches to the top of the bag). This sells for $75 at Riv (and they add shipping - and sales tax in CA). Sturmey Archer AW hub (cost of shipping) $20 I bought this hub used; have never laced it up. Not sure how well it works. Mavic MA3 700C Rims $40 Bought these to go with the Maillard hubs. Unused. Never laced. Ritchey 10cm Threadless stem (cost of shipping) $20 Looks to be about a 10 degree rise. Pictures still at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Ernfast/FSLateSpringCleaning# Thanks for looking, Corwin On May 20, 11:54 pm, Corwin Zechar ernf...@gmail.com wrote: It's amazing how much stuff you collect over a few years. I have gone through my parts bin and various other cubbyholes around my house where parts and accessories seem to gather. All prices include shipping. If you are interested in something and think my price is out of line - please let me know. I am not looking to make a lot of money here. Mainly looking to put this stuff in the hands of people that will use it well. If I included the phrase cost of shipping in an item, I mean to convey that I am only trying to recoup the shipping cost. If you happen to be local to the SF Bay area (either temporarily or long term), and we can negotiate a transfer, I am happy to give the items denoted by cost of shipping away. Sorry if you're not local. Please reply off-list. Berthoud Cork Saddle $200 Has perhaps 150 miles on it. I can't find a blemish anywhere. I don't treat my saddles with Proofhide or anything else. Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem - $40 Mounted, ridden less than 50 miles. Includes shim. Not a scratch anywhere. Brand V Boxy Bar Bag - $65 Used during the Grizzly Peak Century. No stains, rips, tears, etc. Oakley M-Frame Sunglasses - $75 Includes vented Fire Iridium lens, clear lens and grey polarized lens, hard case lined with foam and polishing cloth Pair of Maillard 36 hole Hubs (cost of shipping) $20 Bought these from a list memeber several years back (in the days before the Google Group). Front/rear spacing appears to be 100/126mm. Topeak QR Beam Rack (cost of shipping) $20 Mounts on the seat post. Holds up to about 20 lbs. I had this Quick-Release Beam Rack mounted on my Quickbeam. Shimano 50, 34 tooth chainrings (cost of shipping) $20 Came from a 110 BCD crankset. Ramped and pinned. Unused. Sturmey Archer AW hub (cost of shipping) $20 I bought this hub used; have never laced it up. Not sure how well it works. Sun CR18 650A Rims (cost of shpping) $30 These are the 590mm/26 x 1 3/8 rims you find on old three speeds. Except they are aluminum alloy instead of chromed steel. Unused. Never laced. Mavic MA3 700C Rims $50 Bought these to go with the Maillard hubs. Unused. Never laced. Ritchey 10cm Threadless stem (cost of shipping) $20 Looks to be about a 10 degree rise. BM Lumotec Oval Plus Headlight (cost of shipping) This came off a Breezer Villager. It may need a new bulb. Not sure how well it works. Pictures may be found here:https://picasaweb.google.com/Ernfast/FSLateSpringCleaning# Thanks for looking. Corwin -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: For Sale: Two Nigel Smythe Big Loafer Tweed Bags
These Nigel Smythe Big Loafer bags went to their new home today. Thanks to all who responded. Dan On May 2, 8:39 pm, danboyce danbo...@sonic.net wrote: Selling twoNigelSmythe Big Loafer Tweed Rack Bags. Perfect fit for Nitto R-14 Top Rack. These are splendid rack top bags, but are too small for my commute needs. Bought in 2009, but seldom used and in almost new condition. $100 each or both for $150. I would prefer a face-to-face/cash transaction. I live in Santa Rosa. Link to picture:http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/09/readers-commuter-bikes-slides... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Bar end shifter pod question
Here is the story: About a month ago I gave my mom a mid-80's Miyata 615 all country'd out with big tires, dirt drop stem, moustache bars, and fenders as a Mother's day present. She absolutely loves it and has been riding it a lot, but wants the shifters (downtube) up higher somewhere on the bars. Insert the bar end shifter pods from Riv. The downtube shifters are Shimano 6-speed indexed/friction. The indexed shifting is excellent and I was hoping to retain the indexing after mounting to the Riv bar-end pods. Is the indexing function retained when using these shifter pods? Or will they be friction only upon mounting as bar-end? I ask because one of the awesome local bike shops has a pair of Suntour micro-ratchet bar-ends in the used parts file cabinet. These probably would work better - and for the same price - if the conversion using the Riv shifter pods makes them friction only. Thanks in advance for any insight. Eric MPLS, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Looking for a 57 or 55cm Bleriot...
In a perfect world you, Scott, would get a 55 on loan, put on your wheels, saddle, handlebars and controls, and a stem sized according to the bike fitting, and lay down a hundred or so miles on it. By then you'll know if it's right. And if you try a 53 you should be mindful that a too-long stem with a too-short top tube doesn't make a perfect fit. If you find the right 53 or 55 and are looking at a buy instead of a swap, I'm still game for your 59. ~Bill On May 21, 12:12 pm, Justin August justinaug...@gmail.com wrote: I have a 55. You would fit right or be a bit big on it. I have a 55 and the top tube fits well. -Justin On May 21, 4:30 am, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote: Okay... Have leads on a 57 55 (fellas with those--didn't forget about either of you, just was waiting until I had a Professional bike-fitting, which I had earlier today)... The 57 won't work, the 55 will and would now like to up the ante of possibility by adding: any chance someone has a 53cm Bleriot frameset that they want to sell or trade? Seems the 53 would be optimal and the 55 very doable. So any 53 owners out there? Please email me and let's talk (I'll wait a few days and if no dice, Jason I would like to talk about your 55). Thanks much: -Scott -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
On May 21, 3:19 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On Sat, 2011-05-21 at 00:29 -0700, Zaelia wrote: Without telling the whole story, he also raised my handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of alignment). ??? What on earth does that mean? I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). What? That is hugely drastic. It shouldn't be possible for two fitters to so disagree on correct seat height. Generally, I find the heel on pedal, leg fully extended gives me a good height when my foot's in the proper position for pedaling. I was pretty shocked and dismayed as well. It was not at all what I was expecting. It was probably closer to 1/2 inch that they lowered the saddle. They said my cleats were both too far forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit, I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5 hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary pedalling). Now that cannot be a good sign. For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands, they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to adjust. Memory??? Sounds like pure bollocks to me. My thoughts exactly, but I was talking with someone today and he seemed to understand what they were getting at. Language is difficult. I just might have not heard them right or understood or explained it very well in my previous post. There are all sorts of variables here, including riding in too hard of a gear and the affect that has on cadence. I was out today for a 60 km (37 miles), stop-and-go city ride, and when my knees started to bother me and my friend and I talked about it (and the memory comment), he pointed out about hard gears and cadence. For the rest of the ride, I paid closer attention to these things and for the most part I was pain free (in my knees). I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to where I was before the first fitting I think you have every right to be apprehensive. Screaming out loud in terror wouldn't be all that inappropriate. They seemed to get that I wasn't buying everything they were telling me, and that I wasn't very thrilled with it all either. When they rung me up at the end they said they'd only charge me partial for the fitting. but I'll ride with this setup and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist? So let me get this straight. Before the change in cleat position, no tingling in the toes. They change the cleats, your toes start tingling, and the answer is buy new shoes or see a podiatrist? What is wrong with this picture? Maybe they saw that I was a sucker? I don't know. Alarm bells were definitely going off in my head. Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/ handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about the drops. So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's why I started the fitting
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
Patrick: When I went to the first fitter and he moved my saddle forward, I was totally shocked. I had been moving my saddle back, in small adjustments, over the six or so months since I had first had my bike. If anything, I thought it could have moved further back or that I was getting close to the range needed. I must admit, I wasn't uncomfortable with the fitting I received w/ the first fitter, at least not when it came to the pressure on my hands, numbness/tingling in hands and feet, and sore butt. We just were not able to make my upper body feel good. That's why I decided to try another fitter and they seem to have put me back to where I started in everything except my saddle fore/aft position. I responded to Steve's post and described my ride today. I think I'll just try to focus on my saddle and my cleats for now and see how that goes. I was super focused on my upper body after the initial fitting, because all the other issues seemed to have been solved. I'm feeling a little better about things having gone for a ride today, but getting out for a 90 km (56 mile) ride will be the real yardstick. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll definitely keep them in mind. On May 21, 6:25 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote: Zaelia: I'm sorry to hear about the confusion. Can you post a photo or two of 1) a profile of you on the hoods, 2) in the hooks, 3) Of your camera-side leg at full pedal extension? I know that this will be hard to do, but if these photos could be taken while you are pedaling at a normal rate and torque, that would help. At least photos of you sitting as above and supported by a wall or friend. I know that different people have different needs, but I have been so successful myself in creating a comfortable bar by putting my saddle far back that, again, I wonder if your saddle is simply too far foward? In my own case, my bars stay resolutely fixed -- I hardly ever adjust them once I get them right; it is my saddle and cleats that I am continually adjusting. FWIW, I am 56 and while generally fit do little in the way of upper body exercise. On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 1:29 AM, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote: Over the past week I have been consciously paying attention to my body and reminding myself to relax. Thanks to those on this list who made that suggestion. I do believe this has helped. I was doing this, but I don't think I was really doing it well. I was focusing on some parts of my body but not focusing on others. I have also come to accept the fact that my general fitness, flexibility and strength, or lack thereof, are likely contributing factors. I will be looking into this in more detail. A week ago, I returned to the first fitter to see about the final pieces of my fit. Again, his suggestion was a longer stem and/or a handlebar with a longer reach and medium to shallow drop because I was bunched up up top. Without telling the whole story, he also raised my handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of alignment). This put everything out of whack and I was back to having pain almost everywhere. I think I'm done with that fitter. Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). They said my cleats were both too far forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit, I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5 hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary pedalling). For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands, they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to adjust. I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to where I was before the first fitting, but I'll ride with this setup and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist? Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/ handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about the drops. So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and I was hoping to have the
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
Hi Matt: Thanks for your sympathy and information. With my recent professional bike fitting experience I'd have to say that I'm pretty skeptical of the whole thing too, now. The reason I went to one in the first place was because I had been playing around with the setup of my bike (riding and making adjustments as I went) and was still having issues. I thought going to someone who does this for a living would be helpful. I guess I can look on the bright side and say that it has been helpful. I've learned quite a bit, and I'm more determined to get over my fear of f*cking things up and trying things myself. That said, I'm going to be cautious. Only make one change at a time, and make small, incremental changes. Otherwise I might be forced to go back to a professional again, and I don't think I could go through that process again. On May 21, 6:56 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: Zaelia, sorry to hear about your troubles with getting the right bike fit. That being said, please read the remainder of this message understanding that it is rather biased :) I am extremely skeptical of professional bike fitting. I think you're better off just getting the right leg extension (seat- height), and then playing around with bar and saddle fore/aft postion yourself until you're comfortable. The most important 'fitting' session you can have is to ride a bike(!) carrying a 6mm wrench, and adjust as necessary. In fact, always carry that wrench, because even after years of riding, you may decide you want your saddle 1cm forward or backward or your bars higher/lower. Stem length isn't something you can adjust easily without having multiple stems (or an adjustable one), so best thing you can do is leave your handlebars untaped until you have that settled. Of course, as soon as you want to try different handlebars, your preferred stem length goes out the window and you have to start over again. For saddle height, the best advise I've seen is, roughly: sit on seat, fully extend leg, heel over pedal, should just barely touch. Or, measure 'PBH' rivendell-style, i.e. pulling up as hard as possible, then subtract 10cm, set seat-height there. Ride bike, adjust as necessary (5mm hex wrench, or whatever size your seat collar bolt). Finally, keep in mind that bodies/minds change over time, so things like desired saddle height and reach change over time for a given individual. It is possible that changes will be more rapid and pronounced if you are just getting into riding again after a long break. Just take your time and ease into it, is the best advise I can give. Start with short rides, but do them regularly. In my humble opinion, doing 'big' rides before you have your fit/comfort dialed-in is going to skew your understanding of your own fit/comfort needs, and lead you down the wrong solution paths. -Matt -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
My V-O touring came apart while pedaling down the road. Fortunately I was able to pedal using using just the shaft and after getting back home, reassemble the pedal. From: Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com I wanted to know if any of you all have experience using the V.O city or touring pedals. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
I like the Crank Brothers platforms and I have some Taiwan made magnesium platforms with nice sealed bearings. These are great if you don't mind the more mountain bike, BMX look. Not sure who makes a decent platform with really good sealed cartridge bearings that also has the classic silver look etc. A grease port might also be an option. Just drill and tap for the nipple and pump in some grease every so often and wipe off the excess that oozes out. I'm going to try it on some inexpensive loose bearing pedals I have been using. On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote: I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/ patience to mess with these anymore. I love the platform of the Gripkings and I don't think it can be beat, but I am really disappointed with the quality of the seals and the high maintenance that they seem to require. I've looked all over for another platform pedal with BIG surface area and good performance without straps, and the best option looks like the V.O City or Touring Pedal. I like the idea of sealed cartridge bearings, being that I ride in the rain a lot, and I have very little patience for overhaul-type maintenance. I wanted to know if any of you all have experience using the V.O city or touring pedals. I would like the wider platform of the touring pedal, but I am concerned about cornering clearance with the touring, as these would be for my fixie QB, and I have chewed up the GK's some, even with their excellent clearance. The bottom line is I want a smooth and reliable pedal that offers maximum surface area (size 13.5 here), good grip without clips or straps, and good cornering clearance for fixed riding. I appreciate your opinions. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
H...I assume you have read the Rivendell fit method. Fitting ones self to the bicycle is not rocket science in fact its hardly science at all. Just measure your pubic bone to floor height in bare feet about the width you pedal at and adjust your saddle using Grants method. For instance, I have a PBH measurement of 86.6 cm near as I can tell. I put my saddle level at 76cm and ride with platform pedals more toward the middle of my feet while wearing my normal sport shoes. I don't use clip in pedals and you might consider changing yours along with the cycling shoes to normal athletic shoes and platforms. I set my bar height/distance to allow my back angle to be approximately 45-50 degrees with my most used grip ( the hoods). I am not particularly flexible in the hamstrings and have a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke when the cranks are lined up with the seat tube. If I wear thinner or thicker soled shoes I will sometimes change my saddle height but don't mess with the bar height. My riding usually starts with 8-10 miles 2-4 times per week and progresses to a maximum of 30-60 miles at the peak of the riding season. Most rides are under 25 miles which works out to about 1.5 hours of riding. Most of my aches and pains are due to trying too much too soon or just plain riding too much. Saddle/crotch comfort is a big problem unless I take care of my clothing choices (no thick seams but instead breathable fabrics that don't bunch up). With a wide enough platform pedal I rarely to never get foot discomfort. I wear classic leather gloves (Rivendell) and use one layer of cloth tape. Nothing fancy, just sensible and no uber high mileage to start or even later. I have a self imposed limit of 60 miles maximum in one day. More than four hours of any exercise seems pointless to me and doesn't really contribute to good health IMHO. Racing or ultra long distance cycling seems unhealthy. That's my two cents. On May 22, 12:11 am, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Matt: Thanks for your sympathy and information. With my recent professional bike fitting experience I'd have to say that I'm pretty skeptical of the whole thing too, now. The reason I went to one in the first place was because I had been playing around with the setup of my bike (riding and making adjustments as I went) and was still having issues. I thought going to someone who does this for a living would be helpful. I guess I can look on the bright side and say that it has been helpful. I've learned quite a bit, and I'm more determined to get over my fear of f*cking things up and trying things myself. That said, I'm going to be cautious. Only make one change at a time, and make small, incremental changes. Otherwise I might be forced to go back to a professional again, and I don't think I could go through that process again. On May 21, 6:56 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: Zaelia, sorry to hear about your troubles with getting the right bike fit. That being said, please read the remainder of this message understanding that it is rather biased :) I am extremely skeptical of professional bike fitting. I think you're better off just getting the right leg extension (seat- height), and then playing around with bar and saddle fore/aft postion yourself until you're comfortable. The most important 'fitting' session you can have is to ride a bike(!) carrying a 6mm wrench, and adjust as necessary. In fact, always carry that wrench, because even after years of riding, you may decide you want your saddle 1cm forward or backward or your bars higher/lower. Stem length isn't something you can adjust easily without having multiple stems (or an adjustable one), so best thing you can do is leave your handlebars untaped until you have that settled. Of course, as soon as you want to try different handlebars, your preferred stem length goes out the window and you have to start over again. For saddle height, the best advise I've seen is, roughly: sit on seat, fully extend leg, heel over pedal, should just barely touch. Or, measure 'PBH' rivendell-style, i.e. pulling up as hard as possible, then subtract 10cm, set seat-height there. Ride bike, adjust as necessary (5mm hex wrench, or whatever size your seat collar bolt). Finally, keep in mind that bodies/minds change over time, so things like desired saddle height and reach change over time for a given individual. It is possible that changes will be more rapid and pronounced if you are just getting into riding again after a long break. Just take your time and ease into it, is the best advise I can give. Start with short rides, but do them regularly. In my humble opinion, doing 'big' rides before you have your fit/comfort dialed-in is going to skew your understanding of your own fit/comfort needs, and lead you down the wrong solution paths. -Matt -- You
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
On May 22, 4:59 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: you might consider changing yours along with the cycling shoes to normal athletic shoes and platforms. +1 on using platform pedals/sneakers for comfort- not saying Zaelia should or should not, because of course there's no 'right' answer for anyone, and some folks will always like to use clips/clipless. I've never used clips or clipless pedals so 'what do I know'- but I can tell you that the ability to move your feet around on the pedals comes in handy for comfort. Also, not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet or not, but after setting your seat height using the rivendell method or pedal/heel method, try this advice when riding:if the front of your knees start to feel tight, raise your seat a little bit. if the backs of your knees start to feel tight, lower it a little bit.About 1/2 cm of adjustment is significant. Best of luck getting it figured out! -Matt -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Bar end shifter pod question
I can't think of any reason the shifter should be affected. The pod consists of an insert to which a post get attached. The shifter mounts on the post, just as it is on a down tube. I'll bet someone at Riv has tried this combo, so you can call and ask when you order them. michael On May 21, 11:11 pm, E.Mann eric.l.m...@gmail.com wrote: Here is the story: About a month ago I gave my mom a mid-80's Miyata 615 all country'd out with big tires, dirt drop stem, moustache bars, and fenders as a Mother's day present. She absolutely loves it and has been riding it a lot, but wants the shifters (downtube) up higher somewhere on the bars. Insert the bar end shifter pods from Riv. The downtube shifters are Shimano 6-speed indexed/friction. The indexed shifting is excellent and I was hoping to retain the indexing after mounting to the Riv bar-end pods. Is the indexing function retained when using these shifter pods? Or will they be friction only upon mounting as bar-end? I ask because one of the awesome local bike shops has a pair of Suntour micro-ratchet bar-ends in the used parts file cabinet. These probably would work better - and for the same price - if the conversion using the Riv shifter pods makes them friction only. Thanks in advance for any insight. Eric MPLS, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
On Sat, 2011-05-21 at 23:48 -0700, Zaelia wrote: I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Have you tried a different stem? I would certainly try that. How does a steerer tube wear out? How old is this bike, anyway? I had my Paramount 20 years and the steerer never wore out. Now maybe, just maybe, if the stem was inserted way above the minimum insertion line, the steerer could have bulged. After I wrote that, I did a google search and turned this up: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-492373.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] For Sale: Bridgestone RB1 in perfect condition
http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/2395628367.html Hey there, I'm finally getting around to selling by RB1 which is very sad but I hope someone will enjoy riding it more often than I do. I bought it a couple of years ago b/c I wanted to have a go fast bike to exercise on and I also just thought it was beautiful and had wanted to have one forever. Truth is, I usually ride my Atlantis and I could use the money to buy a new camera! I'm basically selling it for what I bought it for. Actually for a bit of a loss after replacing the rear wheel and adding a few Nitto bits. Curious to know if folks think this is a reasonable price. I know I was happy to pay that when I came across this one b/c it was the exact model I'd wanted. Anyway, hope someone will enjoy it. I'd love to sell it to someone on the list and would come to an arrangement for shipping if I thought it was going to a good home! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks Challenge Saddlebag Honey - Great Condition
$65? On May 20, 2011, at 10:44 PM, Curtis Schmitt curtisrschm...@gmail.com wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/Brooks-Challenge-Leather-Saddle-Seat-Tool-Bag-Honey-/320702258570?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item4aab581d8a Will sell outside of eBay: $75 shipped to RBW member Thanks, Curtis -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: For Sale: Bridgestone RB1 in perfect condition
Here are hi res photos! http://www.flickr.com/photos/63188746@N06/sets/72157626777939036/ On May 22, 8:43 am, JGS jonat...@jonfipro.com wrote: http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/2395628367.html Hey there, I'm finally getting around to selling by RB1 which is very sad but I hope someone will enjoy riding it more often than I do. I bought it a couple of years ago b/c I wanted to have a go fast bike to exercise on and I also just thought it was beautiful and had wanted to have one forever. Truth is, I usually ride my Atlantis and I could use the money to buy a new camera! I'm basically selling it for what I bought it for. Actually for a bit of a loss after replacing the rear wheel and adding a few Nitto bits. Curious to know if folks think this is a reasonable price. I know I was happy to pay that when I came across this one b/c it was the exact model I'd wanted. Anyway, hope someone will enjoy it. I'd love to sell it to someone on the list and would come to an arrangement for shipping if I thought it was going to a good home! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
How does a steerer tube wear out? How old is this bike, anyway? I had my Paramount 20 years and the steerer never wore out. Its possible that the head tube has been ovalized which could cause that problem. I have done that before on a cheap mountain bike that I rode hard. Dan Abelson St. Paul, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
Well, good luck again, and I hope that the process isn't too frustrating. You are wise to keep variables to a minimum during a period of alterations, as you said to Matt. Keep us informed of the progress. On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 1:01 AM, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote: Patrick: When I went to the first fitter and he moved my saddle forward, I was totally shocked. I had been moving my saddle back, in small adjustments, over the six or so months since I had first had my bike. If anything, I thought it could have moved further back or that I was getting close to the range needed. I must admit, I wasn't uncomfortable with the fitting I received w/ the first fitter, at least not when it came to the pressure on my hands, numbness/tingling in hands and feet, and sore butt. We just were not able to make my upper body feel good. That's why I decided to try another fitter and they seem to have put me back to where I started in everything except my saddle fore/aft position. I responded to Steve's post and described my ride today. I think I'll just try to focus on my saddle and my cleats for now and see how that goes. I was super focused on my upper body after the initial fitting, because all the other issues seemed to have been solved. I'm feeling a little better about things having gone for a ride today, but getting out for a 90 km (56 mile) ride will be the real yardstick. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll definitely keep them in mind. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: White Hetres
Hi, I purchased a pair of Hetres in the cream color on March 10th to use on my Bleriot. I have ridden them no more than 15 miles (max) since thenso they are practically new. Naturally the cream color Hetres pick up color from whatever they ride through but they also clean up well and erase the dirt as one rides on dry pavement. Nevertheless, I'll wipe them down and package them in their original bags from Grand Bois. They cost me $150.20 for the pair shipped from Compass. I would like $100 shipped for the pair. The only reason I'm selling is I'm either getting rid of my Bleriot or getting a larger size which would necessitate me putting the smaller col de la vie back on. Thanks Jason -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote: I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/ patience to mess with these anymore. Hi Mike. If you haven't already checked on these issues in regards to the clicking, you may want to double-check that the pedal threads are well greased and securely wrenched into the crank arm. Also, the bearing cone that secures down onto the outboard bearings shouldn't be tightened too much or that will lead to friction. Just thought it'd be worth a mention Coincidentally, I just spend some quiet time yesterday morning greasing up a pair of MKS Sylvan Lite pedals for the Quickbeam, which needed some work after our rainy winter: http://tinyurl.com/3vbx7x2 If the MKS/VO pedals don't work out for you, and you have some spare change lying around (a lot of spare change), you may want to try the White Industries platform pedal. They follow a great design in the form of the Lyotard Berthet No. 23 pedals. I have the latter on my derailleur'd bike and they are a sweet pedal. You'd probably need some sort of foot retention, like the Power Grips that Riv sells. I would think those would make for a great combo. Best of luck on the pedal search, Lee SF, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: Acorn medium saddle bag (used once)
Up for sale is an Acorn Medium Saddlebag-Tan canvas w/ Honey Brown Leather I purchased this new from Acorn and mounted once to my saddle. Unfortunately, the saddlebag is too large for my tiny, 50cm frame (bag taps on fender). Selling for 75.00 plus 8.00 for shipping Here's the description from the Acorn site. http://www.acornbags.com/medbag.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Bar end shifter pod question
Eric, The one thing i think can mess you up is whether the shimano shifters will mount on to the bar-pods. Are there any special washers/fittings when you mount them to the downtube? The bar-pods don't work with shifters that require special fittings, for example i have an old pair of shimano dt shifters that use a curved washer with wierd indents that are keyed to notches in the shifter, these would not work on bar- pods. Rivendell can explain it as well, but the bar-pods only work with shifters that use the square hole washers and nothing else to mount. On May 22, 6:54 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote: I can't think of any reason the shifter should be affected. The pod consists of an insert to which a post get attached. The shifter mounts on the post, just as it is on a down tube. I'll bet someone at Riv has tried this combo, so you can call and ask when you order them. michael On May 21, 11:11 pm, E.Mann eric.l.m...@gmail.com wrote: Here is the story: About a month ago I gave my mom a mid-80's Miyata 615 all country'd out with big tires, dirt drop stem, moustache bars, and fenders as a Mother's day present. She absolutely loves it and has been riding it a lot, but wants the shifters (downtube) up higher somewhere on the bars. Insert the bar end shifter pods from Riv. The downtube shifters are Shimano 6-speed indexed/friction. The indexed shifting is excellent and I was hoping to retain the indexing after mounting to the Riv bar-end pods. Is the indexing function retained when using these shifter pods? Or will they be friction only upon mounting as bar-end? I ask because one of the awesome local bike shops has a pair of Suntour micro-ratchet bar-ends in the used parts file cabinet. These probably would work better - and for the same price - if the conversion using the Riv shifter pods makes them friction only. Thanks in advance for any insight. Eric MPLS, MN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
on 5/21/11 11:48 PM, Zaelia at caddic...@gmail.com wrote: I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Let me get this straight: the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so your handlebars stay in place? And he let you and your bicycle out of the shop? There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are particularly safe failures. Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going on. The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like something which should be ignored. Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact. The bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset the angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is wrong. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here - http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew, and went in. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Torque Spec's
Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on steel bike torque spec's in general. Thank you, all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Acorn Handlebar Bag FT
For Trade--My green Acorn handlebar bag for your tan bag. Acorn or similar bag OK--I'm trying to match with a tan seat bag. I have a bar-mounted bag that's accessible only from the front (when off the bike), and I'm looking for a bag like the Acorn that I can get into while riding. Photos of my bag are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176895@N03/sets/72157626779260644/ Very good condition, only used it a few times. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's
According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote: Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on steel bike torque spec's in general. Thank you, all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
I agree with the previous postersTake the front end off and look for damage and size discrepancies. This sounds extremely unsafe! Doug On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 9:56 AM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote: on 5/21/11 11:48 PM, Zaelia at caddic...@gmail.com wrote: I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Let me get this straight: the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so your handlebars stay in place? And he let you and your bicycle out of the shop? There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are particularly safe failures. Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going on. The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like something which should be ignored. Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact. The bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset the angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is wrong. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here - http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew, and went in. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Torque Spec's
I have found that as I have aged I am more likely to under tighten allen bolts when using hand held keys. I've gone to a torque wrench just to give myself the extra leverage, although I suppose 3/8 ratchet driver would also provide that. michael On May 22, 12:14 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry fromhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] --Eric campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote: Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on steel bike torque spec's in general. Thank you, all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's
On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 12:14 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] Two comments here: 1. torque wrenches are nice if you're worried about over-tightening - esp when it comes to bottom brackets. The plastic thread-on cup in most of the new shimano cartridge bottom brackets can crack if you over tighten. 2. Anyone who has never built their own bike before is an 'inexperienced mechanic'. While you might not have lots of someone else's bikes to screw up and learn on you may still want to get things right and safe on your own. I'm a bit surprised that the above comment is from sheldon. He always seemed a helpful and humble individual. That comment sounds both elitist and exclusive. I received a torque wrench for by birthday the year before last and it has really helped me get cranks and bottom brackets properly torqued. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
In addition to the safety factor, I think the twisting bars might have something to do with your upper body discomfort. Everytime you get on the bike, your body alignment will be off, but not consistently. It seems easy to get a 1 difference in reach, left vs right, with just a small change in bar-twist. My shoulders tense up just at the idea of the bars twisting a little after every jolt. You might feel the shift unconsciously and stiffen up to try to prevent it. Or not. Philip Philip Williamson www.biketinker.com On May 22, 8:56 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 5/21/11 11:48 PM, Zaelia at caddic...@gmail.com wrote: I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Let me get this straight: the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so your handlebars stay in place? And he let you and your bicycle out of the shop? There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are particularly safe failures. Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going on. The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like something which should be ignored. Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact. The bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset the angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is wrong. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew, and went in. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's
I should have added a comment to my original response before I hit send. I *do* use a torque wrench, usually for fastening cranks to square tapers, where the torque wrench tells me to apply more force than I would by feel only. For all other parts (bars, stem bolt, pedals, etc.) I tighten by feel. The only time this system has failed me in recent memory was an Italian bottom bracket that I installed myself. I apparently didn't tighten it enough, and it started unscrewing. A professional mechanic reinstalled it with a larger standard wrench (e.g., tighter than I could have done with my tools), and it's been fine ever since. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On May 22, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Seth Vidal wrote: On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 12:14 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] Two comments here: 1. torque wrenches are nice if you're worried about over-tightening - esp when it comes to bottom brackets. The plastic thread-on cup in most of the new shimano cartridge bottom brackets can crack if you over tighten. 2. Anyone who has never built their own bike before is an 'inexperienced mechanic'. While you might not have lots of someone else's bikes to screw up and learn on you may still want to get things right and safe on your own. I'm a bit surprised that the above comment is from sheldon. He always seemed a helpful and humble individual. That comment sounds both elitist and exclusive. I received a torque wrench for by birthday the year before last and it has really helped me get cranks and bottom brackets properly torqued. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
Yes, I've read and used the Rivendell fit method. That is what I started with. I started out with normal athletic shoes and platforms but was having some problems so I switched to clipless. I'm quite happy with this setup. On May 22, 1:59 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: H...I assume you have read the Rivendell fit method. Fitting ones self to the bicycle is not rocket science in fact its hardly science at all. Just measure your pubic bone to floor height in bare feet about the width you pedal at and adjust your saddle using Grants method. For instance, I have a PBH measurement of 86.6 cm near as I can tell. I put my saddle level at 76cm and ride with platform pedals more toward the middle of my feet while wearing my normal sport shoes. I don't use clip in pedals and you might consider changing yours along with the cycling shoes to normal athletic shoes and platforms. I set my bar height/distance to allow my back angle to be approximately 45-50 degrees with my most used grip ( the hoods). I am not particularly flexible in the hamstrings and have a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke when the cranks are lined up with the seat tube. If I wear thinner or thicker soled shoes I will sometimes change my saddle height but don't mess with the bar height. My riding usually starts with 8-10 miles 2-4 times per week and progresses to a maximum of 30-60 miles at the peak of the riding season. Most rides are under 25 miles which works out to about 1.5 hours of riding. Most of my aches and pains are due to trying too much too soon or just plain riding too much. Saddle/crotch comfort is a big problem unless I take care of my clothing choices (no thick seams but instead breathable fabrics that don't bunch up). With a wide enough platform pedal I rarely to never get foot discomfort. I wear classic leather gloves (Rivendell) and use one layer of cloth tape. Nothing fancy, just sensible and no uber high mileage to start or even later. I have a self imposed limit of 60 miles maximum in one day. More than four hours of any exercise seems pointless to me and doesn't really contribute to good health IMHO. Racing or ultra long distance cycling seems unhealthy. That's my two cents. On May 22, 12:11 am, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Matt: Thanks for your sympathy and information. With my recent professional bike fitting experience I'd have to say that I'm pretty skeptical of the whole thing too, now. The reason I went to one in the first place was because I had been playing around with the setup of my bike (riding and making adjustments as I went) and was still having issues. I thought going to someone who does this for a living would be helpful. I guess I can look on the bright side and say that it has been helpful. I've learned quite a bit, and I'm more determined to get over my fear of f*cking things up and trying things myself. That said, I'm going to be cautious. Only make one change at a time, and make small, incremental changes. Otherwise I might be forced to go back to a professional again, and I don't think I could go through that process again. On May 21, 6:56 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: Zaelia, sorry to hear about your troubles with getting the right bike fit. That being said, please read the remainder of this message understanding that it is rather biased :) I am extremely skeptical of professional bike fitting. I think you're better off just getting the right leg extension (seat- height), and then playing around with bar and saddle fore/aft postion yourself until you're comfortable. The most important 'fitting' session you can have is to ride a bike(!) carrying a 6mm wrench, and adjust as necessary. In fact, always carry that wrench, because even after years of riding, you may decide you want your saddle 1cm forward or backward or your bars higher/lower. Stem length isn't something you can adjust easily without having multiple stems (or an adjustable one), so best thing you can do is leave your handlebars untaped until you have that settled. Of course, as soon as you want to try different handlebars, your preferred stem length goes out the window and you have to start over again. For saddle height, the best advise I've seen is, roughly: sit on seat, fully extend leg, heel over pedal, should just barely touch. Or, measure 'PBH' rivendell-style, i.e. pulling up as hard as possible, then subtract 10cm, set seat-height there. Ride bike, adjust as necessary (5mm hex wrench, or whatever size your seat collar bolt). Finally, keep in mind that bodies/minds change over time, so things like desired saddle height and reach change over time for a given individual. It is possible that changes will be more rapid and pronounced if you are just getting into riding again after a long
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
On May 22, 8:56 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 5/21/11 11:48 PM,Zaeliaat caddic...@gmail.com wrote: I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Let me get this straight: the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so your handlebars stay in place? And he let you and your bicycle out of the shop? No. He was unable to torgue the stem so the handlebars stayed in place at the height they had been at (i.e. set to as part of the fitting). In order to get them to stay in place, he raised the stem and made the conjecture that there must have been some wear in the spot it had been. Does that make sense? There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are particularly safe failures. Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going on. The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like something which should be ignored. Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact. The bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset the angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is wrong. I will be closely monitoring this over the next little while. If it continues, I will definitely get someone to look at it closer. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
Good points. Lots to consider and think about. Thanks On May 22, 9:46 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com wrote: In addition to the safety factor, I think the twisting bars might have something to do with your upper body discomfort. Everytime you get on the bike, your body alignment will be off, but not consistently. It seems easy to get a 1 difference in reach, left vs right, with just a small change in bar-twist. My shoulders tense up just at the idea of the bars twisting a little after every jolt. You might feel the shift unconsciously and stiffen up to try to prevent it. Or not. Philip Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com On May 22, 8:56 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 5/21/11 11:48 PM,Zaeliaat caddic...@gmail.com wrote: I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem. Let me get this straight: the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so your handlebars stay in place? And he let you and your bicycle out of the shop? There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are particularly safe failures. Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going on. The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like something which should be ignored. Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact. The bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset the angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is wrong. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew, and went in. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Brooks B17 others FS
I will purchase the Brooks if it is still available. Paypal okay? or how would you like payment. Happy to send personal check if desired. On May 22, 9:25 am, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote: Hi, Before I list these on Ebay, you may be interested: B-17 Champion, Very nice condition, was used. Leather feels good. $90 - shipped USPS Priority Post Turbo Saddle, new production saddle, very little use - $35 - shipped USPS Priority Post Fizik Antares, in very good shape - $60 - shipped USPS Priority Post WTB MTB saddle, in very good shape - $40 - shipped USPS Priority Post Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamespatrickvaliensi/sets/72157626653737... Thank you, James Valiensi, PE Northridge, CA H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: White Hetres
The Hetres are sold, thank you. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: For Sale: Bridgestone RB1 in perfect condition
Just some feedback on price - it's of course what you think it's worth, but another RB 1 near me has spent months on CL not selling, at a lower price: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/2395444580.html Best, Andrew On May 22, 2011, at 5:51 AM, JGS wrote: Here are hi res photos! http://www.flickr.com/photos/63188746@N06/sets/72157626777939036/ On May 22, 8:43 am, JGS jonat...@jonfipro.com wrote: http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/2395628367.html Hey there, I'm finally getting around to selling by RB1 which is very sad but I hope someone will enjoy riding it more often than I do. I bought it a couple of years ago b/c I wanted to have a go fast bike to exercise on and I also just thought it was beautiful and had wanted to have one forever. Truth is, I usually ride my Atlantis and I could use the money to buy a new camera! I'm basically selling it for what I bought it for. Actually for a bit of a loss after replacing the rear wheel and adding a few Nitto bits. Curious to know if folks think this is a reasonable price. I know I was happy to pay that when I came across this one b/c it was the exact model I'd wanted. Anyway, hope someone will enjoy it. I'd love to sell it to someone on the list and would come to an arrangement for shipping if I thought it was going to a good home! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: Acorn medium saddle bag (used once)
you know, I bought one of those Carradice Bagman supports, and it is all good now. On May 22, 8:38 am, Lesli lesli.lar...@gmail.com wrote: Up for sale is an Acorn Medium Saddlebag-Tan canvas w/ Honey Brown Leather I purchased this new from Acorn and mounted once to my saddle. Unfortunately, the saddlebag is too large for my tiny, 50cm frame (bag taps on fender). Selling for 75.00 plus 8.00 for shipping Here's the description from the Acorn site. http://www.acornbags.com/medbag.html -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: Noodle Bars; Phil Wood BB; 1 threadless cable hanger
Hi All, A few additional items for sale: (1) Nitto Noodle bars, 46CM. This is the cleanest, almost new looking used set of bars you will find. 6 months use before they were replaced with Soba bars. $60 shipped via USPS priority mail. I would also be interested in trading these for a set of Albatross bars in equally good condition. (2) Phil Wood SS BB, 107 symmetrical, with SS cups, British thread. $85 shipped via USPS priority mail. (3) Silver cable hanger for 1² threadless steerer tube. $7 shipped via first class mail. High-rez photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33769898@N04/sets/72157626774030534/detail/ Paypal strongly preferred for all sales. Thanks, and lemme know if you have any questions. Dustin Sharp San Diego, Calif. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
After pondering some more and reading your all's opinions, I've decided I'm going to forego my usual route of just buying something new and shiny and instead tinker with the GK's a little more, being that they are such a sweet pedal, despite the flaws. I think my problem may be an overly tight outermost nut as mentioned, as my main objective in doing this was to eliminate the substantial play that was in the pedal, while also getting a fresh greasing in. I'm not sure that they even needed new grease, I just wanted to see what the innards looked like and how they worked, and once I had it all apart a full overhaul seemed like the best thing to do. As Grant P. says somewhere, you will learn about bikes when you learn about bearings, and loose balls allow you to actually work on them. I'm happy to gain some competence in more sophisticated mechanics, but I really am bummed about the crappy dustcaps on the GK's and the less- than-great seal on them generally. However, I do think it's the most comfortable/best performing pedal for ME on the market. I tried the White Industries, but I found them too small and disliked clips a lot, so I sold them to a member of this forum. I'm starting to see that it's better to fix it and make do than spend obscene amounts of money on an activity that is supposed to save you money and increase joy, not drain your funds and increase stress. TL;DR: I'm going to try some more with fixing the GK's rather than buying something that has the unrealistic promise of being maintenance-free. The universe tends toward equillibrium, not disorder! On May 22, 10:30 am, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote: On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote: I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/ patience to mess with these anymore. Hi Mike. If you haven't already checked on these issues in regards to the clicking, you may want to double-check that the pedal threads are well greased and securely wrenched into the crank arm. Also, the bearing cone that secures down onto the outboard bearings shouldn't be tightened too much or that will lead to friction. Just thought it'd be worth a mention Coincidentally, I just spend some quiet time yesterday morning greasing up a pair of MKS Sylvan Lite pedals for the Quickbeam, which needed some work after our rainy winter: http://tinyurl.com/3vbx7x2 If the MKS/VO pedals don't work out for you, and you have some spare change lying around (a lot of spare change), you may want to try the White Industries platform pedal. They follow a great design in the form of the Lyotard Berthet No. 23 pedals. I have the latter on my derailleur'd bike and they are a sweet pedal. You'd probably need some sort of foot retention, like the Power Grips that Riv sells. I would think those would make for a great combo. Best of luck on the pedal search, Lee SF, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Late Spring Cleaning
Hi Corwin, Can you let me know if the boxy bar bag is still available? if so, I'm interested. Also, how would you prefer payment? PayPal ok? thanks, Mike Gillespie On 5/22/11, Corwin ernf...@gmail.com wrote: This is what is left after the first day. I have dropped some of the prices to help this stuff find a home. Still looking to put this stuff in the hands of people that will use it well. If I included the phrase cost of shipping in an item, I mean to convey that I am only trying to recoup the shipping cost. If you happen to be local to the SF Bay area (either temporarily or long term), and we can negotiate a transfer, I am happy to give the items denoted by cost of shipping away. Sorry if you're not local. Berthoud Cork Saddle $150 Has perhaps 150 miles on it. I can't find a blemish anywhere. I don't treat my saddles with Proofhide or anything else. Berthoud Cork saddles sell for $232/22 5 + shipping at Wallbike/Peter White Cycles. Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem - $30 Mounted, ridden less than 50 miles. Not a scratch anywhere. Brand V Boxy Bar Bag - $50 Used during the Grizzly Peak Century. No stains, rips, tears, etc. I will throw in a Cyclo-Active Map Case (attaches to the top of the bag). This sells for $75 at Riv (and they add shipping - and sales tax in CA). Sturmey Archer AW hub (cost of shipping) $20 I bought this hub used; have never laced it up. Not sure how well it works. Mavic MA3 700C Rims $40 Bought these to go with the Maillard hubs. Unused. Never laced. Ritchey 10cm Threadless stem (cost of shipping) $20 Looks to be about a 10 degree rise. Pictures still at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Ernfast/FSLateSpringCleaning# Thanks for looking, Corwin On May 20, 11:54 pm, Corwin Zechar ernf...@gmail.com wrote: It's amazing how much stuff you collect over a few years. I have gone through my parts bin and various other cubbyholes around my house where parts and accessories seem to gather. All prices include shipping. If you are interested in something and think my price is out of line - please let me know. I am not looking to make a lot of money here. Mainly looking to put this stuff in the hands of people that will use it well. If I included the phrase cost of shipping in an item, I mean to convey that I am only trying to recoup the shipping cost. If you happen to be local to the SF Bay area (either temporarily or long term), and we can negotiate a transfer, I am happy to give the items denoted by cost of shipping away. Sorry if you're not local. Please reply off-list. Berthoud Cork Saddle $200 Has perhaps 150 miles on it. I can't find a blemish anywhere. I don't treat my saddles with Proofhide or anything else. Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem - $40 Mounted, ridden less than 50 miles. Includes shim. Not a scratch anywhere. Brand V Boxy Bar Bag - $65 Used during the Grizzly Peak Century. No stains, rips, tears, etc. Oakley M-Frame Sunglasses - $75 Includes vented Fire Iridium lens, clear lens and grey polarized lens, hard case lined with foam and polishing cloth Pair of Maillard 36 hole Hubs (cost of shipping) $20 Bought these from a list memeber several years back (in the days before the Google Group). Front/rear spacing appears to be 100/126mm. Topeak QR Beam Rack (cost of shipping) $20 Mounts on the seat post. Holds up to about 20 lbs. I had this Quick-Release Beam Rack mounted on my Quickbeam. Shimano 50, 34 tooth chainrings (cost of shipping) $20 Came from a 110 BCD crankset. Ramped and pinned. Unused. Sturmey Archer AW hub (cost of shipping) $20 I bought this hub used; have never laced it up. Not sure how well it works. Sun CR18 650A Rims (cost of shpping) $30 These are the 590mm/26 x 1 3/8 rims you find on old three speeds. Except they are aluminum alloy instead of chromed steel. Unused. Never laced. Mavic MA3 700C Rims $50 Bought these to go with the Maillard hubs. Unused. Never laced. Ritchey 10cm Threadless stem (cost of shipping) $20 Looks to be about a 10 degree rise. BM Lumotec Oval Plus Headlight (cost of shipping) This came off a Breezer Villager. It may need a new bulb. Not sure how well it works. Pictures may be found here:https://picasaweb.google.com/Ernfast/FSLateSpringCleaning# Thanks for looking. Corwin -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group,
[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
Yea a new set of bearings can be had inexpensively if the originals are pitted or flattened in any way. New grease and a proper adjustment should result in a smooth wobble free spin. You might be able to fashion a better seal somehow also. The dust caps could even be machined out of metal if they are not already. This assumes a friend with a lathe and a gift of beer. Along with inflatable tires and linked chain the simple ball bearing revolutionized the world. On May 22, 1:46 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote: After pondering some more and reading your all's opinions, I've decided I'm going to forego my usual route of just buying something new and shiny and instead tinker with the GK's a little more, being that they are such a sweet pedal, despite the flaws. I think my problem may be an overly tight outermost nut as mentioned, as my main objective in doing this was to eliminate the substantial play that was in the pedal, while also getting a fresh greasing in. I'm not sure that they even needed new grease, I just wanted to see what the innards looked like and how they worked, and once I had it all apart a full overhaul seemed like the best thing to do. As Grant P. says somewhere, you will learn about bikes when you learn about bearings, and loose balls allow you to actually work on them. I'm happy to gain some competence in more sophisticated mechanics, but I really am bummed about the crappy dustcaps on the GK's and the less- than-great seal on them generally. However, I do think it's the most comfortable/best performing pedal for ME on the market. I tried the White Industries, but I found them too small and disliked clips a lot, so I sold them to a member of this forum. I'm starting to see that it's better to fix it and make do than spend obscene amounts of money on an activity that is supposed to save you money and increase joy, not drain your funds and increase stress. TL;DR: I'm going to try some more with fixing the GK's rather than buying something that has the unrealistic promise of being maintenance-free. The universe tends toward equillibrium, not disorder! On May 22, 10:30 am, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote: On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote: I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/ patience to mess with these anymore. Hi Mike. If you haven't already checked on these issues in regards to the clicking, you may want to double-check that the pedal threads are well greased and securely wrenched into the crank arm. Also, the bearing cone that secures down onto the outboard bearings shouldn't be tightened too much or that will lead to friction. Just thought it'd be worth a mention Coincidentally, I just spend some quiet time yesterday morning greasing up a pair of MKS Sylvan Lite pedals for the Quickbeam, which needed some work after our rainy winter: http://tinyurl.com/3vbx7x2 If the MKS/VO pedals don't work out for you, and you have some spare change lying around (a lot of spare change), you may want to try the White Industries platform pedal. They follow a great design in the form of the Lyotard Berthet No. 23 pedals. I have the latter on my derailleur'd bike and they are a sweet pedal. You'd probably need some sort of foot retention, like the Power Grips that Riv sells. I would think those would make for a great combo. Best of luck on the pedal search, Lee SF, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's
Thanks, everyone who responded. I have never been overly concerned about the torque on the stem before, but my last crash sent my bars and stem all wracked. I got to thinking more about it as I have the bike on the stand and am getting it repaired. I own a torque wrench, but it's one of those great big old Craftsman jobs from the 60's. Using it to work on bikes requires snapping together lots of adapters and sockets, so some of the torque no doubt gets lost in the translation. Maybe someday I'll buy a more compact model. Until then, unless I'm working on the bottom bracket (which I have done in the past sans torque wrench) I just work by feel. Again, thanks for the responses. From: Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:14 AM Subject: Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: * Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers * Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote: Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on steel bike torque spec's in general. Thank you, all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
On May 22, 3:37 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: fashion a better seal somehow also. The dust caps could even be machined out of metal if they are not already. This assumes a friend with a lathe and a gift of beer. Hey Charlie, nowadays them city kids like to use nickels as dust caps in MKS pedals! Perfect fit, apparently. Best, Lee SF, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: Noodle Bars; Phil Wood BB; 1 threadless cable hanger
Dustin, I'll take the Phil BB and hanger if still available. Mitch San Luis Obispo On May 22, 12:04 pm, Dustin Sharp paleo.v...@gmail.com wrote: Hi All, A few additional items for sale: (1) Nitto Noodle bars, 46CM. This is the cleanest, almost new looking used set of bars you will find. 6 months use before they were replaced with Soba bars. $60 shipped via USPS priority mail. I would also be interested in trading these for a set of Albatross bars in equally good condition. (2) Phil Wood SS BB, 107 symmetrical, with SS cups, British thread. $85 shipped via USPS priority mail. (3) Silver cable hanger for 1² threadless steerer tube. $7 shipped via first class mail. High-rez photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33769898@N04/sets/72157626774030534/detail/ Paypal strongly preferred for all sales. Thanks, and lemme know if you have any questions. Dustin Sharp San Diego, Calif. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] FS: Acorn Handlebar Bag
This is a Riv-ish item, hope you all don't mind the FS post. Have an Acorn HB bag in excellent condition for sale. $75 includes shipping to USA lower 48. The only defect is that I trimmed 1 from each end of the wooden support dowel to better fit the handlebars of a bike that I no longer own. Easily replaced if need be. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Big Rambouillet on ebay
Cool paint job, nice price. http://tinyurl.com/3zfu9du Ryan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking
H..that is something I have not heard of until now, thank you. I gave my MKS pedals to a friend for his now vintage 80's Bianchi but may get another pair just because.The Grip Kings however, with a slight home modification, would probably be more comfortable. I'm tapped out on bike stuff for a while but can hardly wait for my new SimpleOne. On May 22, 6:50 pm, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote: On May 22, 3:37 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: fashion a better seal somehow also. The dust caps could even be machined out of metal if they are not already. This assumes a friend with a lathe and a gift of beer. Hey Charlie, nowadays them city kids like to use nickels as dust caps in MKS pedals! Perfect fit, apparently. Best, Lee SF, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Big Rambouillet on ebay
I love the built up picture to the bottom. Looks perfect. On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 8:12 PM, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote: Cool paint job, nice price. http://tinyurl.com/3zfu9du Ryan -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably benefit more from improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Torque Spec's
When lifting weights seriously back in my twenties I snapped a few bolts working on my bikes then. These days I don't have that problem and can tell when a certain amount of resistance is met with a bolt or nut. Snug is the word I think of when wrenching.if the part still moves, snug it up a bit more. When its stops moving, stop snugging. Common sense and experience seem to be an advantage. Now watch, I'll snap a bolt next week putting my new bike together..I may get a torque wrench just for curiosity sake. On May 22, 6:16 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Thanks, everyone who responded. I have never been overly concerned about the torque on the stem before, but my last crash sent my bars and stem all wracked. I got to thinking more about it as I have the bike on the stand and am getting it repaired. I own a torque wrench, but it's one of those great big old Craftsman jobs from the 60's. Using it to work on bikes requires snapping together lots of adapters and sockets, so some of the torque no doubt gets lost in the translation. Maybe someday I'll buy a more compact model. Until then, unless I'm working on the bottom bracket (which I have done in the past sans torque wrench) I just work by feel. Again, thanks for the responses. From: Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:14 AM Subject: Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: * Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers * Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote: Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on steel bike torque spec's in general. Thank you, all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Torque Spec's
The question still remains. On May 22, 6:16 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Thanks, everyone who responded. I have never been overly concerned about the torque on the stem before, but my last crash sent my bars and stem all wracked. I got to thinking more about it as I have the bike on the stand and am getting it repaired. I own a torque wrench, but it's one of those great big old Craftsman jobs from the 60's. Using it to work on bikes requires snapping together lots of adapters and sockets, so some of the torque no doubt gets lost in the translation. Maybe someday I'll buy a more compact model. Until then, unless I'm working on the bottom bracket (which I have done in the past sans torque wrench) I just work by feel. Again, thanks for the responses. From: Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:14 AM Subject: Re: [RBW] Torque Spec's According to Sheldon Brown, ... Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work. Here's the full entry from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html Torque Wrench A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through it. This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly. Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel of a properly-tightened fastener. [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two reasons for this: * Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of caution by the manufacturers * Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general type. This paragraph added by John Allen] --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote: Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on steel bike torque spec's in general. Thank you, all. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
