[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread charlie
I took mine off a couple years ago because I found myself looking at
it instead of where I was going along with having the mindset of
trying to go faster..it just seemed pointless. Like you, I enjoy
riding more because of it..to the original poster I can
relate, I turn 53 in September and figure I'm on the downward curve so
I'm enjoying everything I can now.

On Jun 6, 9:41 pm, SISDDWG dgen...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've lost
 a lot of power and speed, and this year feel a drop in endurance, but
 as long as I don't look at a bike computer too much, my happiness per
 mile hasn't trailed off.

 Yep, I had a computer on all six of my bikes but when I reached 65
 years of age all the computers were remove. I enjoy cycling as much as
 ever.

 On Jun 6, 4:37 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:







  I took about a ten year break from cycling in my forties when life
  demanded I focus exclusively on other things.  When I started back, I
  set two rules for myself which proved very useful.  First I went on a
  (Atkins) diet and lost 40 lbs.  Second, as I recommitted myself I
  decided to avoid riding so much on any day that I wouldn't want to
  ride again tomorrow.  Both of those proved to be very useful
  decisions. About the same time I discovered Rivendell and I raised my
  bars.  Setting them about 2 cm below my saddle provided great relieve
  to my back and especially my neck muscles.

  Drop bars provide the most variety for hand positions, which relieve
  stress on the wrist  shoulders.  I found putting them higher  than
  the saddle prevented me from standing up, and Vt has lots of short
  steep rollers to get over, which are often easiest if you stand up and
  give some push.

  I'm in my mid-late 60's now and continue to ride with drop bars about
  2 cm below the seat.  I do some yoga after every ride now.  I've lost
  a lot of power and speed, and this year feel a drop in endurance, but
  as long as I don't look at a bike computer too much, my happiness per
  mile hasn't trailed off.

  Drop bars also offer the  least stress on the buns and maybe the feet
  too, which have been a problem for me.

  michael
  just back from a happy, hilly 20 mile ride.

  On Jun 6, 11:55 am, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:

   just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
   mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
   shape)

   OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
   comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
   jones h loop bars or the north road bars.

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Re: [RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Bill Gibson (III)
If you don't ever use the drops you are either going too slow, setting the
bars too low, or don't need them. Ahem.

On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 11:03 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I took mine off a couple years ago because I found myself looking at
 it instead of where I was going along with having the mindset of
 trying to go faster..it just seemed pointless. Like you, I enjoy
 riding more because of it..to the original poster I can
 relate, I turn 53 in September and figure I'm on the downward curve so
 I'm enjoying everything I can now.

 On Jun 6, 9:41 pm, SISDDWG dgen...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've lost
  a lot of power and speed, and this year feel a drop in endurance, but
  as long as I don't look at a bike computer too much, my happiness per
  mile hasn't trailed off.
 
  Yep, I had a computer on all six of my bikes but when I reached 65
  years of age all the computers were remove. I enjoy cycling as much as
  ever.
 
  On Jun 6, 4:37 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I took about a ten year break from cycling in my forties when life
   demanded I focus exclusively on other things.  When I started back, I
   set two rules for myself which proved very useful.  First I went on a
   (Atkins) diet and lost 40 lbs.  Second, as I recommitted myself I
   decided to avoid riding so much on any day that I wouldn't want to
   ride again tomorrow.  Both of those proved to be very useful
   decisions. About the same time I discovered Rivendell and I raised my
   bars.  Setting them about 2 cm below my saddle provided great relieve
   to my back and especially my neck muscles.
 
   Drop bars provide the most variety for hand positions, which relieve
   stress on the wrist  shoulders.  I found putting them higher  than
   the saddle prevented me from standing up, and Vt has lots of short
   steep rollers to get over, which are often easiest if you stand up and
   give some push.
 
   I'm in my mid-late 60's now and continue to ride with drop bars about
   2 cm below the seat.  I do some yoga after every ride now.  I've lost
   a lot of power and speed, and this year feel a drop in endurance, but
   as long as I don't look at a bike computer too much, my happiness per
   mile hasn't trailed off.
 
   Drop bars also offer the  least stress on the buns and maybe the feet
   too, which have been a problem for me.
 
   michael
   just back from a happy, hilly 20 mile ride.
 
   On Jun 6, 11:55 am, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
shape)
 
OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
jones h loop bars or the north road bars.

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-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Philip Williamson
Hahaha! That cracked me up.

 Philip

On Jun 6, 4:49 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 17:46 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
  briefs as opposed to boxers are generally not as comfortable, but I
  completely forgot about them while riding.

 Try doing that on a century sometime and you may find the leg elastics
 leaving an indelible impression on both mind and body.  I still remember
 my first century attempt, in 1973 - always brings this song to 
 mind.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lhf9U5Wf3Q

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Re: [RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Speaking of bars, I could use an 8 cm 1 1/8 threadless stem,
preferably black, 10* rise or modest rise; for the Fargo.

Can trade goods or pay cash.

Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Jay LePree
Hi all:

Interesting post from Dave M. a couple of months ago regarding drop
bar positioning.

http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2011/3/28/leisure-riding-position.html

I tried this on one of my bikes where I noticed that as I became
tired, I would ride in the drops (much below the saddle) and hold the
the ends of the bar. It was just a natural position for me - low and
close as I tired.  I did not feel any more strain on my neck or back,
probably because my back angle had not changed much.  So far the
experiment has been successful.  This placement of the bars may not
work if one is already using short stem.  I did NOT try this on my
Rambouillet where the saddle is even with the seat.  The bike fits me
so well, I do not want to alter my riding position.  I do notice
however on the Rambouillet that as I tire, I also start to use the
drop with my hands way back on the ends of the bars.

Perhaps Canall can consider keeping the  bars at their current height,
but bring them in closer.  It would have the same effect with respect
to back angle as raising the bars, but would not sacrifice leverage on
standing up for going over hills.

Regards,

Jay
Demarest, NJ

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 20:43 -0700, james black wrote:
 Why must we dump our freewheels, a technology which in my experience
 has always performed flawlessly as intended, just because freehubs
 make for better engineering? 

One reason might be that freewheels NEVER performed flawlessly.  First
time I brought my Paramount in for service, and it must have had less
than 1,000 miles on it, the shop destroyed my Regina Oro freewheel
trying to remove it.  It was common for shops servicing tandems to
resort to a three foot long cheater bar to try to remove the freewheel.
Pedaling screws the freewheel on tighter, and the stronger the forces on
the chain, the tighter it gets.  Trying to overcome that torque with a
small notched or splined wrench inside the freewheel often led to
slippage, which in turn led to damage.

As if that wasn't enough, there's the issue of the freewheel's location
forcing the drive side bearing in the hub inboard, leading to axle
bending; this wasn't a problem in the days of 3, 4 and 5 speed clusters,
but once they went to six and beyond it became more and more of a
problem.  Seven speeds appears to be the practical maximum.

Rather than considering them flawless, you might think of freewheels
as a poorly engineered system that was pushed beyond its practical
limits into the realm of failure.  



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Re: [RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 20:39 -0700, charlie wrote:
 I'm with all the folks who like the double top tube.I like the
 different look and it  does make the frame stronger. I'm a full 268
 and would want the extra tube but I don't think a lighter rider would
 get a harsh ride out of it, in fact, it would help if the bike were
 loaded up with bags. I think many of those against it are secretly
 gram counters and are worried they won't be as fast on the
 bike. ; ) 

My objections have nothing at all to do with gram counting.  When you
can measure your weight in tenths of a ton you don't fret about no
stinkin' grams.  For me, it's mostly about the excessive stiffness, and
only a little bit about aesthetics.  In general, the Riv frames made
with oversize tubing and single top tubes were already too stiff; the
last thing in the world they need in my opinion is even more stiffness.

I realize, flexible vs stiff is a preference choice, and different
riders experience this differently.  It's one thing to want a very stiff
frame because you prefer the performance; but to create an overly stiff
frame for the sake of visual differentiation -- now that's irrational.




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Re: [RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 19:39 -0700, Mike S wrote:
 Noodles came with my Quickbeam and I
 abhorred the whole crouched over, knees-in-the-chest speedy position.

You're describing bad fit, not the way things are supposed to be with
drop bars.



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Re: [RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Ken Freeman
Agreed!  There's a big difference between drop bars 5 cm below the saddle
and drop bars raised to even or even a few cm above the saddle.  Reach to
the bars is a major factor in comfort, as well.

On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:45 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 19:39 -0700, Mike S wrote:
  Noodles came with my Quickbeam and I
  abhorred the whole crouched over, knees-in-the-chest speedy position.

 You're describing bad fit, not the way things are supposed to be with
 drop bars.



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Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Greg
I own a 60cm single top tube Sam, '09. Maybe because my main two rides
for the last 20 years have been 59cm Ribby's, an RB-1 go-fast and an
RB-T commuter/light tourer, The flex of the single top tube Sam feels
perfect to me under my 226 lbs. for day riding on paved or gravel
roads and overnight inn to inn trips. I start to notice a bit more
flex, not yet objectionable, with a large saddlebag, med. basket up
front, camping gear from my ultralight backpacking kit and 4 days
food. For longer trips with rear panniers instead of the large
saddlebag and adding a small seat bag the flex is more pronounced and
I wish I had a stiffer frame. Jay at Rivendell, who is a 200+ pounder,
started out with a  single top tube Sam and latter had a second top
tube fillet brazed on. He told me the bike still has the same springy-
ness on day rides yet is stiffer laterally when loaded...which sounds
just like what I'm looking for when I'm touring on my Sam. I don't
have any need for a super stiff touring bike since after 11 years of
experimentation I feel totally confident with my ultralight camp gear
and would not want a bike that is capable of carrying an elephantine
fully loaded touring setup. So this winter I'm stripping my Sam and
sending it off to Rivendell to have an undertube added. In that
configuration I would have no reservations about riding the Sam and my
usual tarptent, quilt, torso sized sleep pad, alcohol stove based gear
kit on a trip of any length given the change Jay related in his bike
due to it's single to double top tube transformation.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I can see a second top tube for loaded touring -- or loads, simply.
The 56 single tubed SH I owned rode well unladen but was a bit flexy
under load. Still, I'd rather have flex under load than excessive
stiffness unladen. 170.

Odd, but my new SH replacement Herse was too stiff for its two
previous owners but suits me just fine. Probably because I am a more
powerful rider.

Patrick that last statement was a huge joke Moore, since the two
previous owners are regular brevet riders.

On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:20 AM, Greg gndogg...@gmail.com wrote:
 I own a 60cm single top tube Sam, '09. Maybe because my main two rides
 for the last 20 years have been 59cm Ribby's, an RB-1 go-fast and an
 RB-T commuter/light tourer, The flex of the single top tube Sam feels
 perfect to me under my 226 lbs. for day riding on paved or gravel
 roads and overnight inn to inn trips. I start to notice a bit more
 flex, not yet objectionable, with a large saddlebag, med. basket up
 front, camping gear from my ultralight backpacking kit and 4 days
 food. For longer trips with rear panniers instead of the large
 saddlebag and adding a small seat bag the flex is more pronounced and
 I wish I had a stiffer frame. Jay at Rivendell, who is a 200+ pounder,
 started out with a  single top tube Sam and latter had a second top
 tube fillet brazed on. He told me the bike still has the same springy-
 ness on day rides yet is stiffer laterally when loaded...which sounds
 just like what I'm looking for when I'm touring on my Sam. I don't
 have any need for a super stiff touring bike since after 11 years of
 experimentation I feel totally confident with my ultralight camp gear
 and would not want a bike that is capable of carrying an elephantine
 fully loaded touring setup. So this winter I'm stripping my Sam and
 sending it off to Rivendell to have an undertube added. In that
 configuration I would have no reservations about riding the Sam and my
 usual tarptent, quilt, torso sized sleep pad, alcohol stove based gear
 kit on a trip of any length given the change Jay related in his bike
 due to it's single to double top tube transformation.


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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] FS Big Apple Liteskin 26x2.35

2011-06-07 Thread stevep33
Big Apple Liteskin 26x 2.35.  Set of 2 tires.

These are the Big Apples with the lighter casing, so they weigh less
and roll really well.
They are lightly used with about 75 road/path miles.  The tread is in
great shape - the little rubber whisps haven't worn off the front tire
yet.  See pictures: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626906857546/

$65 (including shipping in CONUS).  Paypal.

Contact me off list please.

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Patrick,

I believe we can all identify with your situation. Accommodating
excess power is a constant struggle.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean
:)

On Jun 7, 7:59 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I can see a second top tube for loaded touring -- or loads, simply.
 The 56 single tubed SH I owned rode well unladen but was a bit flexy
 under load. Still, I'd rather have flex under load than excessive
 stiffness unladen. 170.

 Odd, but my new SH replacement Herse was too stiff for its two
 previous owners but suits me just fine. Probably because I am a more
 powerful rider.

 Patrick that last statement was a huge joke Moore, since the two
 previous owners are regular brevet riders.





 On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 6:20 AM, Greg gndogg...@gmail.com wrote:
  I own a 60cm single top tube Sam, '09. Maybe because my main two rides
  for the last 20 years have been 59cm Ribby's, an RB-1 go-fast and an
  RB-T commuter/light tourer, The flex of the single top tube Sam feels
  perfect to me under my 226 lbs. for day riding on paved or gravel
  roads and overnight inn to inn trips. I start to notice a bit more
  flex, not yet objectionable, with a large saddlebag, med. basket up
  front, camping gear from my ultralight backpacking kit and 4 days
  food. For longer trips with rear panniers instead of the large
  saddlebag and adding a small seat bag the flex is more pronounced and
  I wish I had a stiffer frame. Jay at Rivendell, who is a 200+ pounder,
  started out with a  single top tube Sam and latter had a second top
  tube fillet brazed on. He told me the bike still has the same springy-
  ness on day rides yet is stiffer laterally when loaded...which sounds
  just like what I'm looking for when I'm touring on my Sam. I don't
  have any need for a super stiff touring bike since after 11 years of
  experimentation I feel totally confident with my ultralight camp gear
  and would not want a bike that is capable of carrying an elephantine
  fully loaded touring setup. So this winter I'm stripping my Sam and
  sending it off to Rivendell to have an undertube added. In that
  configuration I would have no reservations about riding the Sam and my
  usual tarptent, quilt, torso sized sleep pad, alcohol stove based gear
  kit on a trip of any length given the change Jay related in his bike
  due to it's single to double top tube transformation.

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 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.
 (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] FS: Power Grips

2011-06-07 Thread Dave Faller
I have a set of black Power Grips that are virtually new.  I used them for 
maybe a mile, but they didn't work for me the way I'd hoped.

$20, shipping is on me CONUS.

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Steve D.
I'm about to turn 55, and I still use drops (NItto Dream) on my
Atlantis. I keep the bars slightly above my saddle--no back aches, but
a little numbness in my hands now and then. I'm planning on changing
out the Dream bar to a Nitto Noodle so I can get the top part of the
bar closer to me, hoping that it reduces the numbness. I mostly ride
on the ramps, and only in the drops when I'm climbing a steep hill.

As for getting back in shape, I stopped commuting to work in the fall
(in Seattle), started riding my motorcycle to work, then got back on
my bike in January, and average about 15 to 16 mph over 16 miles round-
trip. Having said that, I used to only get about 10 to 12 mph, and it
was very frustrating. I I thought it was because I had just turned 50.
But after taking the bike into the shop and having a real bike
mechanic (not me) tune it up, it was happy smiles to work and a new
appreciate for my '03 Atlantis. Since then, I've taken the bike back
to the shop, and had new chainrings and a new 11-34 cassette put on.
The bike rides great, and going up hills is almost leisurely (if there
is such a thing). You'll be able to go faster with time as you build
up endurance. For me, I know I'd be faster if I push myself, and would
like to get a little faster going uphill (I average about 7 - 8mph).
But I'm not pushing myself much, I'm too busy enjoying the ride and
some time to myself.

Good luck and enjoy
Steve

On Jun 6, 8:55 am, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:
 just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
 mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
 shape)

 OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
 comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
 jones h loop bars or the north road bars.

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Steve D.
Yeah, and I like the looks of drops on touring and racing bikes. Kinda
superficial reasoning I know, but that's just my opinion. I like
having the alternative hand positions as well. Glad you like your
Noodle setup. Now that I have my Atlantis' drive train dialed in
(after eight years of owning her), I working on dialing in the comfort
zone for fit.

On Jun 6, 4:00 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
 After reading all the replies here by all you old farts, I realized I
 am one too. Started riding seriously in High School in 1972 on drop
 bars, the only bar available except on those English Racers.

 I have a Priest (Riv pre-Albatross) bar on my towny 3 speed (yes an
 English Racer: 1966 Robin Hood) and a mtn bike bar on my mtn bike, and
 I tried a Mustache bar on my Allrounder for nearly 3 years. I have
 always come back to a drop bar, now setup as old farts should near
 saddle height. Tops, ramps, hoods, drops, that kind of variation
 speaks to old fart comfort in my view. Continuing in my retrogrouch
 POV, the Noodle is the best drop bar ever and they are bolted on the
 rest of my bikes. There is a reasonable chance I will have one in my
 death grip on that profound day.

 On Jun 6, 2:50 pm, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote: I've ridden done most 
 of my riding with drop bars (for about 40 years
  now...), most recently with Nitto Mod. 185 bars on my Riv (these are
  now sold by Rivendell in a lightened version called Mark's Bar) and
  the original equipment Cinelli Giro D'Italia bars on my Paramount.  I
  don't, however, ride on the drops.  The bars are set, in the proper
  Rivendell manner, at a height relatively level with the saddle.  Drop
  bars provide a number of comfortable hand positions, without using the
  drops,  and I don't feel any particular reason to use the drops.

  I've also used Mustache bars, but after some time, I decided that they
  really aren't very comfortable.  The most easily used hand position on
  Mustache bars, riding on the hoods,  puts the body in a aero
  position that I don't like.

  Jim Cloud
  Tucson, AZ

  On Jun 6, 8:55 am, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:

   just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
   mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
   shape)

   OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
   comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
   jones h loop bars or the north road bars.- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Darin G.
Deal breaker.

I'm 180-190 and have one of the original 56 cm canti Sams (nome de
guerre: Ramble 'Rounder).  Wonderful and plush commuter, but on the
heavy and sluggish side for lightly laden rides.  I don't see how
adding another tube can do anything but further deaden the ride.  I've
really pushed this bicycle as an enthusiast's bike that can do it all;
the commute, the lightly loaded tour or overnighter, the charity ride,
the century, the sporty ride with friends (provided you are more fit
than they are).   Most of my cycling friends, who are not ignorant
about bicycling or slavishly race-oriented in their tastes, have been
skeptical but willing to consider the benefits of an all 'rounder road
bike and they appreciate the lean but strong lines of my Sam.  I don't
think anyone, however, is going to be convinced that the performance
of what was heretofore a stout sport-tourer will be improved by a
second top tube.  If they need a beefier bike they've got plenty of
others to consider that don't have the awkward second tube.  The
Atlantis comes to mind, the LHT, or the Co-Motion Americano or Nor'-
Wester.  If they want a livelier and sportier bike the second-tube
will confirm that the Sam is not for them.  The well-heeled may buy up
to the A.H.H. (the single-tubed Sam's upscale analogue), but most will
go elsewhere and I'm afraid I'd have to agree with that choice.

I think Rivendell is putting out a five-legged chair here.  What comes
next?  A rickshaw?  A sidecar for the Chesapeake Bay retriever?  This
will kill the Sam.

D.G.

On Jun 5, 12:56 pm, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does this make any sense in a 56 cm Sam? Should it be a deal breaker?
 I almost ordered one the other day until I found out all the new one's
 have the undertube.
 What does is collective wisdom of this group?

 BTW I weigh 165 lbs want the bike for commuting and the occasional
 tour.

 Jay

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Campee Front Rack (w/ Removable Pannier Supports)

2011-06-07 Thread Curtis Schmitt
I saw Jamison's post earlier about wanting to buy a front rack and I reached
out to him since I only used mine once and in the process stripped one of
the eyelets on my fork. Will probably be a while before I have that fork
fixed (terribly busy at work right now) so I thought I'd offer the rack for
sale to the list instead of letting it sit around for months as a constant
reminder of my poor Romulus.

It's virtually new, installed right before my trip, used for 100 miles over
four days and then removed immediately.

I was thinking $215 shipped w/ Riv's Nitto 12cm bent struts and the
standard included struts for brake studs
$205 shipped without the Riv Nitto bent struts (but still includes
everything you need to install if you have the right fork)

Oh, and I'll throw in two snazzy bungies that work perfectly with the
small-ish top rack platform and actually make it very useful for carrying
stuff. Just let me know if you want them in the red or blue colorway.

You can see the rack in action during my camping trip here: *
http://tinyurl.com/3fm72ch*

PayPal payment preferred.

Thanks,
Curtis

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Noodles (48cm), Technomic Deluxe stem (10 cm), Cane Creek brake levers

2011-06-07 Thread Forrest
All in really good, lightly used condition. Prices include shipping in
CONUSA.

Nitto Noodle handlebars (48 cm) -- $50

Technomic Deluxe stem (10 cm) -- $40

Cane Creek SCR-5 drop-bar brake levers (standard size, not for small
hands)  -- $25
 like these:  http://tinyurl.com/3t6d3ss

Would love to sell these all as a set, so price for set (shipped) is
$100.

Thanks for looking.

-- Forrest (Iowa City)

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-07 Thread Mike S
Actually a major strike against drops for me is that there isn't
enough reach in the flat position. I prefer the extension moustache
bars allow in the hood position. I also needed the dirtdrop stem to
get my bars high enough (b/c I maybe should've gotten a 66 instead of
64 frame), and I find the moustache/DD combo to be an ideal
complementary pair.

Being a tall guy with very long arms complicates fit for me, and
underscores the complexity of this discussion. It's not that drops
suck, they just suck for me, and I'm much more able to find a
comfortable, upright position with an option of tucked aero with the
moustaches.

On Jun 7, 6:45 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 19:39 -0700, Mike S wrote:
  Noodles came with my Quickbeam and I
  abhorred the whole crouched over, knees-in-the-chest speedy position.

 You're describing bad fit, not the way things are supposed to be with
 drop bars.

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Tony Lockhart
Deal-breaker? No way. While the undertube may look a bit out of place,
I see it as an opportunity to admire some of those pretty lugs. And
you've got more of that sparkly orange paint to admire.

But, to play devil's advocate: I have a 56cm Tiawanese Sam and am 195
pounds. Aside from frame flex during out-of-the-saddle sprints, my
bike is pretty solid without an undertube.



Undertube or not, you're going to have an awesome bike with quite a
bit of versatility, well worth what Riv is charging for it.

On Jun 5, 11:56 am, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does this make any sense in a 56 cm Sam? Should it be a deal breaker?
 I almost ordered one the other day until I found out all the new one's
 have the undertube.
 What does is collective wisdom of this group?

 BTW I weigh 165 lbs want the bike for commuting and the occasional
 tour.

 Jay

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Scotty
I dont know if it should be, but it actually was a deal breaker for
me. I ordered my bike in April and when I called it was my intention
to get a 56 Sam. I had it all speced out and when I was told that they
were going to have double top tubes, coupled with the fact that they
would not take canti brakes anymore, it stopped me in my tracks and by
the time I hung up the phone I had ordered an A Homer Hilsen. I was
struggling with the choice between the 2 bikes anyway. I dont mind
sidepulls but the canti's helped me choose the Sam. That alone would
not have changed my mind but the undertube just turned me off to it.
Maybe that feeling was unjustified. The thousand dollar savings would
have allowed me a fancier build. Had I taken more time to think it
through I may have ordered the Sam anyway but I didnt, and I am sure I
wont regret the AHH. I sure cant wait for it to arrive.

On Jun 5, 2:56 pm, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does this make any sense in a 56 cm Sam? Should it be a deal breaker?
 I almost ordered one the other day until I found out all the new one's
 have the undertube.
 What does is collective wisdom of this group?

 BTW I weigh 165 lbs want the bike for commuting and the occasional
 tour.

 Jay

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[RBW] FOR TRADE items: Nitto, Grand Bois, Salsa, Topeak WTB: GB Rando bars

2011-06-07 Thread Rod C
Hello RBW group,

I am on the search for some comfortable handlebars.  I've been running
Nitto Classic B115's and briefly tried Salsa Moto Ace Woodchippers.
They are both available for sale or trade.

I am looking to trade for or buy a pair of Grand Bois Randonneur bars
in good condition OR
a pair of 46cm Nitto Noodle bars.  Also a 46 Nitto Soba bar would be
fine.

I'm currently running these on my Rawland Drakkar steel bike with 650b
tires.

Also have one GB Hetre tire in good condition I could throw in for
trade to offset price differences in handlebars.

Stats on FOR TRADE ITEMS:

1.  Nitto B115 handlebars, 45cm width, 25.4 clamp size, 324 grams,
100mm reach, 140mm drop very good condition
2.  Salsa Moto Ace Woodchippers, 42cm, 25.4 clamp, 80mm reach, 110mm
drop excellent condition,
3.  Grand Bois Hetre tire, black with tan sidewall, approx. 500 miles,
650b x 42, good condition
4.  Topeak XLARGE Road Master Blaster pump, excellent condition, NO
DENTS
5.  Topeak mini Road Morph pump, no pressure gauge, Excellent
condition

Contact me offline.  Thanks.

Rod

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread james black
On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 03:35, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 20:43 -0700, james black wrote:
 Why must we dump our freewheels, a technology which in my experience
 has always performed flawlessly as intended, just because freehubs
 make for better engineering?

 One reason might be that freewheels NEVER performed flawlessly.

I understand the advantages of cassettes, but let me emphasize the in
my experience part of my statement above - I have used freewheels for
years personally without any problems. Freehubs may work better, but
freewheels have worked pretty well too, at least if you can avoid the
factors that lead to problems (like crap IRD freewheels, axle-bending
wide spacing, heavily loaded bikes, etc.).

There is also a question of economy. Obviously choosing a Phil or
White freewheel hub and new IRD freewheels is not a bargain choice;
but for us bottomfeeders it is still very easy and inexpensive to
acquire a decent freewheel hub and functional freewheel (either an
older Suntour or a new production Shimano). I would generally spend
more on a freehub setup than I would on a freewheel setup (which I
would choose without reservation if I were equipping, for example, a
bike with 120mm dropouts and a five-speed cogset).

James Black

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Re: [RBW] FOR TRADE items: Nitto, Grand Bois, Salsa, Topeak WTB: GB Rando bars

2011-06-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Rod: I may be interested in the Woodchippers. I have a 46 cm Noodle.

How do they compare with the Bell Laps, do you know?

On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 10:33 AM, Rod C rodc...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello RBW group,

 I am on the search for some comfortable handlebars.  I've been running
 Nitto Classic B115's and briefly tried Salsa Moto Ace Woodchippers.
 They are both available for sale or trade.

 I am looking to trade for or buy a pair of Grand Bois Randonneur bars
 in good condition OR
 a pair of 46cm Nitto Noodle bars.  Also a 46 Nitto Soba bar would be
 fine.

 I'm currently running these on my Rawland Drakkar steel bike with 650b
 tires.

 Also have one GB Hetre tire in good condition I could throw in for
 trade to offset price differences in handlebars.

 Stats on FOR TRADE ITEMS:

 1.  Nitto B115 handlebars, 45cm width, 25.4 clamp size, 324 grams,
 100mm reach, 140mm drop very good condition
 2.  Salsa Moto Ace Woodchippers, 42cm, 25.4 clamp, 80mm reach, 110mm
 drop excellent condition,
 3.  Grand Bois Hetre tire, black with tan sidewall, approx. 500 miles,
 650b x 42, good condition
 4.  Topeak XLARGE Road Master Blaster pump, excellent condition, NO
 DENTS
 5.  Topeak mini Road Morph pump, no pressure gauge, Excellent
 condition

 Contact me offline.  Thanks.

 Rod

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread Minh
Man i think i'm freaked out enough now by these IRD failures that i
need to swap out the one that i have on my SH before my next camping
trip...

On Jun 7, 12:47 pm, james black chocot...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 03:35, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  On Mon, 2011-06-06 at 20:43 -0700, james black wrote:
  Why must we dump our freewheels, a technology which in my experience
  has always performed flawlessly as intended, just because freehubs
  make for better engineering?

  One reason might be that freewheels NEVER performed flawlessly.

 I understand the advantages of cassettes, but let me emphasize the in
 my experience part of my statement above - I have used freewheels for
 years personally without any problems. Freehubs may work better, but
 freewheels have worked pretty well too, at least if you can avoid the
 factors that lead to problems (like crap IRD freewheels, axle-bending
 wide spacing, heavily loaded bikes, etc.).

 There is also a question of economy. Obviously choosing a Phil or
 White freewheel hub and new IRD freewheels is not a bargain choice;
 but for us bottomfeeders it is still very easy and inexpensive to
 acquire a decent freewheel hub and functional freewheel (either an
 older Suntour or a new production Shimano). I would generally spend
 more on a freehub setup than I would on a freewheel setup (which I
 would choose without reservation if I were equipping, for example, a
 bike with 120mm dropouts and a five-speed cogset).

 James Black

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Phil Brown


The double top tube isn't really necessary. I once made a standard
tube bike with a very light top tube as an experiment. I'm 6'3 and
weighed at the time 210 and I could notice no difference from my other
bikes with the same geometry and heavier top tubes. It's loaded in
compression and doesn't need to be real heavy. It just locates the
head and seat tubes the correct distance from each other.
Phil Brown

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[RBW] FS: Touring Gear

2011-06-07 Thread Tim Smith
Well, I couldn't sell my 59cm custom. So I'm offering the touring
accessories that I was planning to sell with it separately. This is
(deluxe!) gear that I've bought in the past 7 or so years, but for one
reason or another never used on a tour. That is, the stuff may be used
in the sense that it has been tried out on a short ride, but never
used hard, and shows no or very little signs of wear. Prices include
USPS Priority Mail shipping to lower 48 USA.

Berthoud Frontbag (basic) WITH rack and decaleur -- $170

Berthoud SS fenders, struts, hardware (no flap), will fit 700C up to
35mm (probably more) -- $ 35

Tubus Logo rear rack with taillight -- $ 110

Ortlieb front roller classic bags, red (really like new!) -- $ 105

Picture (group shot) at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/11901252@N06/sets/72157626820508070


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[RBW] inspirational wheelchairs: RBW charity

2011-06-07 Thread LF
RBW is now supporting two charities: The Fistula Foundation  Whirlwind 
Wheelchair. I work in a rehabilitation hospital, and have observed the 
relatively poor technology and repairability of our wheelchairs. I find 
Whirlwind Wheelchairs inspirational, from  social and a technological 
perspectives. Have a look: 

*youtube: http://tinyurl.com/5tszydg*

*Whirlwind web site: http://tinyurl.com/5v6w83p*

Best,
Larry

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[RBW] Re: FS Big Apple Liteskin 26x2.35

2011-06-07 Thread stevep33
Sold

On Jun 7, 9:20 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Big Apple Liteskin 26x 2.35.  Set of 2 tires.

 These are the Big Apples with the lighter casing, so they weigh less
 and roll really well.
 They are lightly used with about 75 road/path miles.  The tread is in
 great shape - the little rubber whisps haven't worn off the front tire
 yet.  See 
 pictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626906857546/

 $65 (including shipping in CONUS).  Paypal.

 Contact me off list please.

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread james black
On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 12:34, John Vu j...@jhvu.com wrote:
 I love my freewheel stuff but I'm not sure you can really say it's
 cheaper to use them.

I don't think I can claim it's cheaper to use freewheels, but it can
be cheap. The last wheelset I built last year was on a NOS pair of
Sunshine high-flange hubs that I got on eBay for about $15 and a NOS
Suntour five-speed freewheel for about $10 on eBay. If today I set out
to build something like a 130mm OLD 7-speed Shimano freehub wheelset,
I would likely spend more than that for the hubs and cassette.

I see the freewheel system as analogous to the quill stem -
technological improvements have supplanted it in the mainstream
market, but not rendered it worthless or any less useful than it was
20 years ago.

James Black
Los Angeles, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2011-06-07 at 13:29 -0700, james black wrote:
 
 I see the freewheel system as analogous to the quill stem -
 technological improvements have supplanted it in the mainstream
 market, but not rendered it worthless or any less useful than it was
 20 years ago.

Except that with stems it's quill length and diameter, extension and bar
diameter that matter, and as long as those remain available in sizes you
need, you're good to go; but with freewheels, it's threading and gear
choices.  If you need English threading, you're good in that respect --
but most of the gearing choices are long gone.  The cog board is gone.
What you have today is very, very limited.  

If gearing choices don't matter to you, fine; and if you happen to be a
real genuine fan of 14-28 Alpine, then God bless you - some long
winter's evening maybe you can explain to me how the shifting pattern
works, and who knows, long about the 4th or 5th hot toddy I might
actually get it.  Otherwise, you are so out of luck.

But if you aren't a gear freak, and this isn't the Classic Rendezvous
list where Period Correct is God, why are you messing around with
freewheels?   Bottom feeding?  

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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread james black
On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 13:52, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 If gearing choices don't matter to you, fine; and if you happen to be a
 real genuine fan of 14-28 Alpine, then God bless you - some long
 winter's evening maybe you can explain to me how the shifting pattern
 works, and who knows, long about the 4th or 5th hot toddy I might
 actually get it.  Otherwise, you are so out of luck.

You have outlined a pretty weird drinking game there.

Actually I do like the 14-28 five-speed - you can make a nice halfstep
with it and it has a good range, but I also have found from my recent
experience with half-step that I don't need the fine steps between
gears that halfstep provides. I would rather have more substantial
jumps between gears, especially after riding fixed gear for a long
time, the fine gear steps seem irrelevant as I am willing and able to
pedal at different cadences.

Also, bottom feeding - by that I mean that I have boxes of take-off
bike parts from the several UJBs I have purchased over the years,
including old wheelsets and various barely used 14-28 five-speed
freewheels. They aren't garbage, they work fine.

But on my last wheelbuild, I messed around with freewheels because it
was a direct way to get a multi-gear drivetrain with some elegant high
flange hubs on a bike with 126mm dropout spacing. And I would do it
again!

When I put that rSogn together, on the other hand, I will use NOS
Shimano Deore DX freehubs with a 7-speed hyperglide cassette.

James Black
Los Angeles, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread tarik saleh
THis is a pretty funny conversation all out. I think the big
difference (for me) is between using quill stems and freewheel hubs on
brand new  bikes. I don't get it at all. Even worse (to me) is
speccing quills and freewheel hubs on a new bike. Outside of this, I
get it, have fun riding. Inside of this, I don't get it, but have fun
riding. Inside of a dog, it is too dark to read.

Tarik


On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 2:52 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Tue, 2011-06-07 at 13:29 -0700, james black wrote:

 I see the freewheel system as analogous to the quill stem -
 technological improvements have supplanted it in the mainstream
 market, but not rendered it worthless or any less useful than it was
 20 years ago.

 Except that with stems it's quill length and diameter, extension and bar
 diameter that matter, and as long as those remain available in sizes you
 need, you're good to go; but with freewheels, it's threading and gear
 choices.  If you need English threading, you're good in that respect --
 but most of the gearing choices are long gone.  The cog board is gone.
 What you have today is very, very limited.

 If gearing choices don't matter to you, fine; and if you happen to be a
 real genuine fan of 14-28 Alpine, then God bless you - some long
 winter's evening maybe you can explain to me how the shifting pattern
 works, and who knows, long about the 4th or 5th hot toddy I might
 actually get it.  Otherwise, you are so out of luck.

 But if you aren't a gear freak, and this isn't the Classic Rendezvous
 list where Period Correct is God, why are you messing around with
 freewheels?   Bottom feeding?

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tas at tariksaleh dot com
in los alamos, po box 208, 87544
http://tariksaleh.com
all sorts of bikes blog: http://tsaleh.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread cm
As people have pointed out, there are valid reasons for wanting the
undertube and there are valid reasons for not wanting the undertube. I
think it basically comes down to this: If you like it, get it and if
you don't like it, don't get it. That may sound too simple but you are
one who is going to be riding it and why spend that much money on
something you don't love? If not, save your pennies and get the AHH.

Is there someone in your area who has one so you can see it in person?
take it for a spin? That might make the decision for you.

Cheers!
cm

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[RBW] So Cal July 10 - Three Speed River and Sea ride

2011-06-07 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
Good times are heading your way, people.  Noel (who does know how to
post to this group BTW)  is putting together a real nice ride.  35
miles through coastal Orange County.  Should be a perfect route.

Conversation here on the flickr:
http://www.flickr.mud.yahoo.com/groups/socal_rivendell_bicycle_appreciation_society/discuss/72157626313116172/

And original posting on the SoCal 3 speed tour site:
http://www.threespeedtouringclub.com/riverandseadaytour.htm

All bikes and riders are encouraged to show and go for a ride.  One to
30 gears allowed (sorry 31 speeders).  Be there or be L7.

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[RBW] OT: Road Conditions near Tahoe

2011-06-07 Thread erik jensen
I'm wondering if anyone can comment on the condition of soda springs rd from
soda springs down to foresthill/mosquito ridge area. I'm hoping to ride this
with a few folks the weekend after next, and all the reports I can get are
fairly spotty. Any local knowledge would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

erik

-- 
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bikenoir.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: So Cal July 10 - Three Speed River and Sea ride

2011-06-07 Thread Andy.M
Ill be in town that weekendnow which bike to bring... hmm
-Andy
On Jun 7, 3:24 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Good times are heading your way, people.  Noel (who does know how to
 post to this group BTW)  is putting together a real nice ride.  35
 miles through coastal Orange County.  Should be a perfect route.

 Conversation here on the 
 flickr:http://www.flickr.mud.yahoo.com/groups/socal_rivendell_bicycle_apprec...

 And original posting on the SoCal 3 speed tour 
 site:http://www.threespeedtouringclub.com/riverandseadaytour.htm

 All bikes and riders are encouraged to show and go for a ride.  One to
 30 gears allowed (sorry 31 speeders).  Be there or be L7.

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Re: [RBW] Re: So Cal July 10 - Three Speed River and Sea ride

2011-06-07 Thread cyclotourist
Who is this Andy person, anyway...?

On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 4:19 PM, Andy.M andy.e.m...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ill be in town that weekendnow which bike to bring... hmm
 -Andy
 On Jun 7, 3:24 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  Good times are heading your way, people.  Noel (who does know how to
  post to this group BTW)  is putting together a real nice ride.  35
  miles through coastal Orange County.  Should be a perfect route.
 
  Conversation here on the flickr:
 http://www.flickr.mud.yahoo.com/groups/socal_rivendell_bicycle_apprec...
 
  And original posting on the SoCal 3 speed tour site:
 http://www.threespeedtouringclub.com/riverandseadaytour.htm
 
  All bikes and riders are encouraged to show and go for a ride.  One to
  30 gears allowed (sorry 31 speeders).  Be there or be L7.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Double Top Tube Sam Hillborne

2011-06-07 Thread Bill M.
The top tube is loaded in more than just compression.  Back in the
'80's a Caltrans engineer named Rick Jorgensen did some FIA on frames,
and determined that the top tube is loaded in torsion.  Imagine
removing the down tube from a frame.  The force of pedaling would make
the seat tube want to deflect sideways, out of plane with the head
tube.  That force would be seen as twisting by the top tube.  The same
mechanism holds when the down tube is present.

That twisting mode of the frame is why I tend to think that the
'diagatube' design is actually a structural improvement over the
parallel undertube.  The middle of the seat tube is a great place for
the extra tube to try to resist twisting.  The 'marathion' tube in
some tandem designs works the same way which is why Jorgensen included
them in the Tango tandem frames he built.

A 56 Sam is too big for me, so it's really moot, but I'd regard the
extra tube as overkill for me and the way I would use a Sam.  I'm
actually going the other way, with a 650b Rawland Sogn built with
light .8/.5/.8 tubes and a 1 top tube.  I've never owned bike that I
thought was too flexible.  I also don't generally carry heavy touring
loads.

Bill

On Jun 7, 10:55 am, Phil Brown philcyc...@gmail.com wrote:
 The double top tube isn't really necessary. I once made a standard
 tube bike with a very light top tube as an experiment. I'm 6'3 and
 weighed at the time 210 and I could notice no difference from my other
 bikes with the same geometry and heavier top tubes. It's loaded in
 compression and doesn't need to be real heavy. It just locates the
 head and seat tubes the correct distance from each other.
 Phil Brown

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Re: [RBW] FS: Touring Gear

2011-06-07 Thread robert mcandrews
Hi, Tim-
I'll be happy to take the berthoud bag, rack and decaleur for 170.  Been
looking for such a etup for my ebisu.  Let me know about payment- paypal
ok?  Thanks- Robert McAndrews

On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 11:22 AM, Tim Smith tssm...@sonic.net wrote:

 Well, I couldn't sell my 59cm custom. So I'm offering the touring
 accessories that I was planning to sell with it separately. This is
 (deluxe!) gear that I've bought in the past 7 or so years, but for one
 reason or another never used on a tour. That is, the stuff may be used
 in the sense that it has been tried out on a short ride, but never
 used hard, and shows no or very little signs of wear. Prices include
 USPS Priority Mail shipping to lower 48 USA.

 Berthoud Frontbag (basic) WITH rack and decaleur -- $170

 Berthoud SS fenders, struts, hardware (no flap), will fit 700C up to
 35mm (probably more) -- $ 35

 Tubus Logo rear rack with taillight -- $ 110

 Ortlieb front roller classic bags, red (really like new!) -- $ 105

 Picture (group shot) at

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/11901252@N06/sets/72157626820508070


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[RBW] Re: FS: Touring Gear

2011-06-07 Thread canali
interested in the front rollers...colour...condition?
joe
jwcoll...@hotmail.com

Tim Smith wrote:
 Well, I couldn't sell my 59cm custom. So I'm offering the touring
 accessories that I was planning to sell with it separately. This is
 (deluxe!) gear that I've bought in the past 7 or so years, but for one
 reason or another never used on a tour. That is, the stuff may be used
 in the sense that it has been tried out on a short ride, but never
 used hard, and shows no or very little signs of wear. Prices include
 USPS Priority Mail shipping to lower 48 USA.

 Berthoud Frontbag (basic) WITH rack and decaleur -- $170

 Berthoud SS fenders, struts, hardware (no flap), will fit 700C up to
 35mm (probably more) -- $ 35

 Tubus Logo rear rack with taillight -- $ 110

 Ortlieb front roller classic bags, red (really like new!) -- $ 105

 Picture (group shot) at

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/11901252@N06/sets/72157626820508070

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[RBW] Nitto Touring Bar on Atlantis - First impressions...

2011-06-07 Thread Rene Sterental
I just installed the Nitto Touring Bar aka Butterfly or Trekking bar on my
Atlantis and rode it for the first time today on my Bike/Caltrain commute to
work. I'm trying to find a bar that will allow me to ride comfortably with
no neck pain and after having used the 48cm Noodles, Albatross and the
Moustache Bars with mixed success, I decided to explore the concept of the
Trekking bars.

I mounted the bars on a Nitto Dirt Drop 25.4/10cm stem to avoid using shims.
After checking out several configuration options online, I opted to go for a
variation of the standard setup to get started. Brake levers on the ends of
the bars (section closest to the rider and to keep it clean, mounted my
bar-end shifters on Paul's Thumbies that I mounted on the vertical section
of the stem. I debated on mounting the brake levers on the front like you do
on M-bars, but since the fronts are flatter, I wasn't sure I would like
pulling on the lever on that position. I might still try it, but for now
decided to try the default brake lever position on the bars. I haven't taped
them and won't until I'm sure that is the way I want to keep them.

First impressions are:
- Surprisingly comfortable after fine tuning the height of the bars and
rotating them so the are almost parallel to the ground. May still tweak that
a little bit, but I've almost got it close to perfect by the time I came
home in the evening. Bar height for me is similar to the recommended M-bar
setup, front of the bar higher than the saddle and ends are basically level
with the top of the saddle.
- Extremely well handling of the bike, particularly on turns. While it
always felt as if I had to somehow work the turns being careful not to
over/under do it with the Noodle bars, with the Touring bars the turns were
effortless and very cool. No matter if I had my hands on the front or on the
rear, making the bike turn was incredibly smooth and felt amazing. Perhaps
it's due to their increased width over the Noodles, perhaps it's just the
overall fit that improves the handling so much, at least for me.
- Standing on the pedals to climb makes it very easy to hit the bar with the
legs, but it's easy to get around it by slightly turning the body when
dancing on the pedals instead of pushing the bike sideways. I only do it
for short stretches so it's not a big deal for me, but it's definitely not a
bar you would choose if you stood on your pedals often.
- There is just a hint of flexibility on the bar that makes it extremely
comfortable on rough stuff, especially when riding it upright with your
hands on the closest sections of the bars where the brakes are.

After I had rotated the bar forward, the position was very comfortable and
much to my surprise, I realized that I didn't develop any shoulder/neck pain
at all. Later in the evening I could feel some tightness on my neck, but I
had had no discomfort at all during the ride, even though I pushed it hard
for a bit. When riding hard, the hands fall naturally on the angle between
the front and side sections and it's quite comfortable. I'm wondering if
I'll prefer the brake levers there, but so far I think I'm going to leave
them where they are. It seems you want the hands on the brakes when riding
at slow speeds in traffic when you're upright, rather than when you're
stretched in the forward position for faster riding. Still, I'm not so sure
so I'll probably try some levers on the front section at some point. The
brake levers I put are the Tektro FL750 City Brake Levers and I got them
from VO. They seem a perfect fit for these bars in the current position, as
if designed purposely for it.

More feedback to come, but in the meantime you can check some pictures
here: http://tinyurl.com/3ur7e7m

René

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Touring Bar on Atlantis - First impressions...

2011-06-07 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 12:59 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 - Standing on the pedals to climb makes it very easy to hit the bar with the
 legs, but it's easy to get around it by slightly turning the body when
 dancing on the pedals instead of pushing the bike sideways. I only do it
 for short stretches so it's not a big deal for me, but it's definitely not a
 bar you would choose if you stood on your pedals often.
 - There is just a hint of flexibility on the bar that makes it extremely
 comfortable on rough stuff, especially when riding it upright with your
 hands on the closest sections of the bars where the brakes are.
 After I had rotated the bar forward, the position was very comfortable and
 much to my surprise, I realized that I didn't develop any shoulder/neck pain
 at all. Later in the evening I could feel some tightness on my neck, but I
 had had no discomfort at all during the ride, even though I pushed it hard
 for a bit. When riding hard, the hands fall naturally on the angle between
 the front and side sections and it's quite comfortable. I'm wondering if
 I'll prefer the brake levers there, but so far I think I'm going to leave
 them where they are. It seems you want the hands on the brakes when riding
 at slow speeds in traffic when you're upright, rather than when you're
 stretched in the forward position for faster riding. Still, I'm not so sure
 so I'll probably try some levers on the front section at some point. The
 brake levers I put are the Tektro FL750 City Brake Levers and I got them
 from VO. They seem a perfect fit for these bars in the current position, as
 if designed purposely for it.
 More feedback to come, but in the meantime you can check some pictures
 here: http://tinyurl.com/3ur7e7m


Those bars look great! Maybe I'll think about a set for the bike
friday tandem. Seems like the perfect place for needing more control
and not really ever needing to get out of the saddle to pedal.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Why Freewheels? WAS: Experiments in Rolling Resistance and Low Speed Stability

2011-06-07 Thread Jim Cloud
I've never ridden a bike that wasn't equipped with anything other than
a freewheel.  Given that fact, I'd have to say if I was purchasing a
new Rivendell, or whatever, today it would be fitted with a cassette
hub.

The freewheels that I'm presently using are all either SunTour Winner
Pro or Sachs and they've performed perfectly.  I've never experienced
any problems using (or removing) a freewheel with the exception of one
crummy Regina freewheel which developed a fracture in the body of the
freewheel (fortunately discovered before I had a breakdown on the
road).  Regina freewheels were, in my opinion, never very good and
they're now appropriately relegated to period correct restorations of
collector bikes made until the late 1970's.

I do think that bottom feeding is a totally sensible activity.  I've
also got boxes of NOS freewheels and other parts that I've accumulated
over the years.  I'll continue using them for the foreseeable future.

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ
On Jun 7, 2:15 pm, james black chocot...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 13:52, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  If gearing choices don't matter to you, fine; and if you happen to be a
  real genuine fan of 14-28 Alpine, then God bless you - some long
  winter's evening maybe you can explain to me how the shifting pattern
  works, and who knows, long about the 4th or 5th hot toddy I might
  actually get it.  Otherwise, you are so out of luck.

 You have outlined a pretty weird drinking game there.

 Actually I do like the 14-28 five-speed - you can make a nice halfstep
 with it and it has a good range, but I also have found from my recent
 experience with half-step that I don't need the fine steps between
 gears that halfstep provides. I would rather have more substantial
 jumps between gears, especially after riding fixed gear for a long
 time, the fine gear steps seem irrelevant as I am willing and able to
 pedal at different cadences.

 Also, bottom feeding - by that I mean that I have boxes of take-off
 bike parts from the several UJBs I have purchased over the years,
 including old wheelsets and various barely used 14-28 five-speed
 freewheels. They aren't garbage, they work fine.

 But on my last wheelbuild, I messed around with freewheels because it
 was a direct way to get a multi-gear drivetrain with some elegant high
 flange hubs on a bike with 126mm dropout spacing. And I would do it
 again!

 When I put that rSogn together, on the other hand, I will use NOS
 Shimano Deore DX freehubs with a 7-speed hyperglide cassette.

 James Black
 Los Angeles, CA

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Touring Bar on Atlantis - First impressions...

2011-06-07 Thread James Warren

I notice something interesting on the fork crown of Rene's Atlantis. It makes 
the bike look more like The Bomb. And it makes me feel more excited about my 
decision to have the mounts added to the crown of my own Atlantis that is out 
for repaint and that I'm eagerly awaiting.

-Jim W.


On Jun 7, 2011, at 10:08 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:

 On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 12:59 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 - Standing on the pedals to climb makes it very easy to hit the bar with the
 legs, but it's easy to get around it by slightly turning the body when
 dancing on the pedals instead of pushing the bike sideways. I only do it
 for short stretches so it's not a big deal for me, but it's definitely not a
 bar you would choose if you stood on your pedals often.
 - There is just a hint of flexibility on the bar that makes it extremely
 comfortable on rough stuff, especially when riding it upright with your
 hands on the closest sections of the bars where the brakes are.
 After I had rotated the bar forward, the position was very comfortable and
 much to my surprise, I realized that I didn't develop any shoulder/neck pain
 at all. Later in the evening I could feel some tightness on my neck, but I
 had had no discomfort at all during the ride, even though I pushed it hard
 for a bit. When riding hard, the hands fall naturally on the angle between
 the front and side sections and it's quite comfortable. I'm wondering if
 I'll prefer the brake levers there, but so far I think I'm going to leave
 them where they are. It seems you want the hands on the brakes when riding
 at slow speeds in traffic when you're upright, rather than when you're
 stretched in the forward position for faster riding. Still, I'm not so sure
 so I'll probably try some levers on the front section at some point. The
 brake levers I put are the Tektro FL750 City Brake Levers and I got them
 from VO. They seem a perfect fit for these bars in the current position, as
 if designed purposely for it.
 More feedback to come, but in the meantime you can check some pictures
 here: http://tinyurl.com/3ur7e7m
 
 
 Those bars look great! Maybe I'll think about a set for the bike
 friday tandem. Seems like the perfect place for needing more control
 and not really ever needing to get out of the saddle to pedal.
 
 -sv
 
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Re: [RBW] Nitto Touring Bar on Atlantis - First impressions...

2011-06-07 Thread Rene Sterental
That's a good eye! I requested all the mounts on my Atlantis fork that
I had on the Bombadil fork when I ordered it.

How long is it taking to have yours repainted and the brazeons added?

Rene

Sent from my iPhone 4

On Jun 7, 2011, at 10:16 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:


 I notice something interesting on the fork crown of Rene's Atlantis. It makes 
 the bike look more like The Bomb. And it makes me feel more excited about my 
 decision to have the mounts added to the crown of my own Atlantis that is out 
 for repaint and that I'm eagerly awaiting.

 -Jim W.


 On Jun 7, 2011, at 10:08 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:

 On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 12:59 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 - Standing on the pedals to climb makes it very easy to hit the bar with the
 legs, but it's easy to get around it by slightly turning the body when
 dancing on the pedals instead of pushing the bike sideways. I only do it
 for short stretches so it's not a big deal for me, but it's definitely not a
 bar you would choose if you stood on your pedals often.
 - There is just a hint of flexibility on the bar that makes it extremely
 comfortable on rough stuff, especially when riding it upright with your
 hands on the closest sections of the bars where the brakes are.
 After I had rotated the bar forward, the position was very comfortable and
 much to my surprise, I realized that I didn't develop any shoulder/neck pain
 at all. Later in the evening I could feel some tightness on my neck, but I
 had had no discomfort at all during the ride, even though I pushed it hard
 for a bit. When riding hard, the hands fall naturally on the angle between
 the front and side sections and it's quite comfortable. I'm wondering if
 I'll prefer the brake levers there, but so far I think I'm going to leave
 them where they are. It seems you want the hands on the brakes when riding
 at slow speeds in traffic when you're upright, rather than when you're
 stretched in the forward position for faster riding. Still, I'm not so sure
 so I'll probably try some levers on the front section at some point. The
 brake levers I put are the Tektro FL750 City Brake Levers and I got them
 from VO. They seem a perfect fit for these bars in the current position, as
 if designed purposely for it.
 More feedback to come, but in the meantime you can check some pictures
 here: http://tinyurl.com/3ur7e7m


 Those bars look great! Maybe I'll think about a set for the bike
 friday tandem. Seems like the perfect place for needing more control
 and not really ever needing to get out of the saddle to pedal.

 -sv

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Touring Bar on Atlantis - First impressions...

2011-06-07 Thread James Warren

I dropped it off on April 6th or so, and I think it will be ready this week or 
next.

I'm getting a kickstand plate added, mini-rack braze-ons front and rear, and 
the front rack mounts on the fork crown. It's my 2001 Atlantis's 10th 
Anniversery Upgrade.

-Jim W.


On Jun 7, 2011, at 10:22 PM, Rene Sterental wrote:

 That's a good eye! I requested all the mounts on my Atlantis fork that
 I had on the Bombadil fork when I ordered it.
 
 How long is it taking to have yours repainted and the brazeons added?
 
 Rene
 
 Sent from my iPhone 4
 
 On Jun 7, 2011, at 10:16 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 
 I notice something interesting on the fork crown of Rene's Atlantis. It 
 makes the bike look more like The Bomb. And it makes me feel more excited 
 about my decision to have the mounts added to the crown of my own Atlantis 
 that is out for repaint and that I'm eagerly awaiting.
 
 -Jim W.
 
 
 On Jun 7, 2011, at 10:08 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:
 
 On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 12:59 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 - Standing on the pedals to climb makes it very easy to hit the bar with 
 the
 legs, but it's easy to get around it by slightly turning the body when
 dancing on the pedals instead of pushing the bike sideways. I only do it
 for short stretches so it's not a big deal for me, but it's definitely not 
 a
 bar you would choose if you stood on your pedals often.
 - There is just a hint of flexibility on the bar that makes it extremely
 comfortable on rough stuff, especially when riding it upright with your
 hands on the closest sections of the bars where the brakes are.
 After I had rotated the bar forward, the position was very comfortable and
 much to my surprise, I realized that I didn't develop any shoulder/neck 
 pain
 at all. Later in the evening I could feel some tightness on my neck, but I
 had had no discomfort at all during the ride, even though I pushed it hard
 for a bit. When riding hard, the hands fall naturally on the angle between
 the front and side sections and it's quite comfortable. I'm wondering if
 I'll prefer the brake levers there, but so far I think I'm going to leave
 them where they are. It seems you want the hands on the brakes when riding
 at slow speeds in traffic when you're upright, rather than when you're
 stretched in the forward position for faster riding. Still, I'm not so sure
 so I'll probably try some levers on the front section at some point. The
 brake levers I put are the Tektro FL750 City Brake Levers and I got them
 from VO. They seem a perfect fit for these bars in the current position, as
 if designed purposely for it.
 More feedback to come, but in the meantime you can check some pictures
 here: http://tinyurl.com/3ur7e7m
 
 
 Those bars look great! Maybe I'll think about a set for the bike
 friday tandem. Seems like the perfect place for needing more control
 and not really ever needing to get out of the saddle to pedal.
 
 -sv
 
 --
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