[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Michael Hechmer

We would be paying $1000 for a crankset.

That's simply not true.  White Ind., as just one US manufacturer, makes 
multiple cranks, including a state of the art VBC dbl crank, an excellent 
triple, and tandem cranks,  Most of their cranks sell for around $220.

I am glad that Jan Heine  Grant Peterson are careful to avoid purchasing 
from grossly unethical suppliers but there is more to it than that.  Buying 
anything, either food, clothing, or brake sets, from your neighbors helps to 
build community and strengthen the fabric of our society.  I'll bet that's a 
big part of why many on this list buy from LBS  from RBW.  When the low 
cost producer becomes so, not by excelling in mfg. technology but by paying 
low wages and manipulating currency rates then working people's wages get 
driven down world wide and all the money collects in the hands of a few.  I 
am sure that both asia and america have big enough markets to support their 
own manufacturing structure at wages that are fair to their own people.

Finally it is unclear how sustainable this system is even for a small 
company. Grant manufactured his frames in Jpn. for many decades based on 
lower costs.  But that lower cost was based largely on currency 
manipulation.  Now that Japan is unable to do that, prices have risen 
dramatically and he is forced to look for other sources or try to work with 
the now seriously malnourished US mfg. base.  What happens when China  
Korea are no longer able to sustain undervalued currencies in the face of 
permanent, huge trade surpluses?  Will the next generation of frames be made 
in Afghanistan? 

Over the last few years I have bought BBs from Phil Wood, hubs, cranks, and 
pedals from White Ind., brakes from Pauls, a tandem frame from Bilenky, made 
with US mfg. Tange tubing,.  I haven't regretted any of those purchases.

michael

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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Seth, I admire and support what you are trying to do, but I think it's best 
to not get too hung up on country of manufacture. Here's why: We sell a fair 
number of Surly bikes, which is a local brand in Minneapolis. People who 
are concerned about such things tend to focus on the fact that the frames 
are not actually manufactured in Minneapolis, but in Taiwan. I have heard 
that the landed cost of the Long Haul Trucker or Cross-Check frameset is 
around $75, which may be inexact, but seems close enough with the economies 
of scale. This means that of the $450ish MSRP, less than 20% is 
manufacturing and shipping to the Surly distribution points. For all the 
focus on manufacturing country, 80-85% of the money you spend on a Surly 
frameset goes somewhere else. Somewhere else is the designers, customer 
service people, shipping personnel, and marketing/sales staff, most of whom 
are local to me, and several of whom are personal friends. Around 40% goes 
to the LBS where you buy the frame. In other words, 80% of the price of your 
Taiwanese Surly frameset stays in your own country, and half of that stays 
with your LBS. I would imagine that Rivendell has a larger percentage tied 
up in manufacturing their framesets, which works for them because, by and 
large, there is no LBS profit margin in the equation.

It's sort of depressing to chase your money around after you've spent it. 
Unfortunately, you can only control the first place it gets spent. After 
that, it gets complicated, and somewhere in the supply chain is a guy who 
beats his wife, votes for politicians you despise, eats the wrong food, and 
blows his cash on slave-made stuff at Wal-Mart. If we follow this rabbit 
hole far enough, we may conclude that it's better to keep the money in the 
sock drawer, and ride only scavenged Schwinn Varsities...or better yet, not 
earn money in the first place, and live as a monk.


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Re: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

2011-10-07 Thread Ray Shine
At 180 pounds, the springs on my Flyer barely and rarely compress enough to 
feel 
or even sense. I am still riding the old way, by shifting weight onto the 
pedals if I see a pot hole, tracks, sharp curb, etc.  For me and my riding 
style, the springs are virtually useless. The leather on my Flyer is not at all 
saggy. Quite the opposite. It is the hardest Brooks I have ever owned (and, 
frankly, the most attractive in terms of brown tints and tones). The saddle is 
heavy, also. All that said, I still have it mounted on my Quickbeam for some 
reason.





From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, October 6, 2011 9:09:56 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

I found the leather on two different Flyer saddles to stretch and lose tension 
really quickly.  And the springs were always annoyingly squeaky.  Don't know 
about the rail lenghts.


On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 8:41 PM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

This is a fuzzy memory from 5 years ago, but I would estimate the difference is 
about a centimeter. Grant is right about the springs: At 160lbs. back then (oh, 
glory days), the only difference between the two saddles was looks and weight. 
Those springs didn't even buzz for me. 


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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA




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[RBW] Re: Stem length question - WTB shorter replacement - how short???

2011-10-07 Thread Kelly Sleeper
Then again if you buy those thi gs and store the extras instead of selling them 
... You have Em when you need them.

I've had good luck buying quill stems from LBS's out of junk boxes for 7 to 10 
bucks a pop.  Find the size you like then go for the lugged version..  :)

Kelly

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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Garth
Jim, 

Those are very good points!   I'll only add  

 Can we truly know what is best for others? ..  .  or are we in the 
habit of thinking we know what's best for another based on what *we* believe 
to be best (based on our completely arbitrary life experience) and 
*telling*others what they want?  There are levels and scales of this of 
course 
but we all do this to some extent. Is our life so easily and perfectly 
managed we have the time to perfectly manage others too? LoL!   Yeah ... a 
good look within myself in the mirror ... and i get my answers. 


No one truly decides for us... yet we may choose to give some choices away. 
We all make decisions for ourselves.  . . .we do things that we believe will 
make our lives appear to be a little better.  There's no right or wrong 
answers  . .. only answers that feel better or worse within the confines of 
oneself. 

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RE: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

2011-10-07 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
The springs on the Flyer on my Atlantis squeak, too, but I find it soothing 
somehow.  They're definitely responding to bumps etc (i'm 190 or so).  And 
despite the fact that my Flyer is carved for decoration (I know, I know -- I 
can be a bit of a dandy), the leather has held up extremely well.  Never wet, 
though.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Shine
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:17 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

At 180 pounds, the springs on my Flyer barely and rarely compress enough to 
feel or even sense. I am still riding the old way, by shifting weight onto 
the pedals if I see a pot hole, tracks, sharp curb, etc.  For me and my riding 
style, the springs are virtually useless. The leather on my Flyer is not at all 
saggy. Quite the opposite. It is the hardest Brooks I have ever owned (and, 
frankly, the most attractive in terms of brown tints and tones). The saddle is 
heavy, also. All that said, I still have it mounted on my Quickbeam for some 
reason.


From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, October 6, 2011 9:09:56 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

I found the leather on two different Flyer saddles to stretch and lose tension 
really quickly.  And the springs were always annoyingly squeaky.  Don't know 
about the rail lenghts.

On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 8:41 PM, Joe Bernard 
joerem...@gmail.commailto:joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
This is a fuzzy memory from 5 years ago, but I would estimate the difference is 
about a centimeter. Grant is right about the springs: At 160lbs. back then (oh, 
glory days), the only difference between the two saddles was looks and weight. 
Those springs didn't even buzz for me.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA




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[RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

2011-10-07 Thread Chuck
I'm currently using one of each, and to be honest I've never noticed a 
difference in usable rail length. There probably is a difference, but I'll 
have to do some measuring to check it out. At 160 lbs, I don't really notice 
any major difference in the ride on either, although I *think* I can feel 
the springs on the flyer working occasionally.

Chuck 

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[RBW] Re: Stem length question - WTB shorter replacement - how short???

2011-10-07 Thread Steve
I have a 9 cm (measured end-to-end) stem made by Nitto, Not sure what
model it is, but it's shorter than the technomic dynamic with only 140
mm length and 85 mm above the minimum in insertion line.  Further,
it's for 25.4 mm clamp diameter bars and has a hole drilled and tapped
for the installation of a bell.  Willing to sell for cheap if you're
(or anyone else) is interested.

On Oct 1, 11:29 am, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a Sam Hillborne with a 10 cm stem Technomic and Noodle bars 5
 cm above saddle height.

 This feels too short. I can reach all the various positions with my
 arms almost totally straight, but not locked.

 Also, I would like to try lowering the bars a few cms. Dusting off my
 high school trig - lowering the stem 3.25 cm puts the bars 1 cm
 farther away. change in stem height. With my current stem this is too
 far.

 So -
 1. Do I want 8 cm or 9?
 2. Does anyone have one they want to get rid off?
 3. Does anyone want to buy the 10 cm, with 500 miles and a few
 scratches on it?

 Jay

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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Jan Heine
On Oct 6, 6:13 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 I take it you
 are confident that your manufacturers are playing fair on their
 outsourcing.

I am confident because our engineer actually visited the companies and
saw the machinery. He visits during the production process and makes
sure that everything is going according to plan. We don't work with
companies who sub-contract. That is why it takes us a long time to
bring products to market, and why we cannot develop a huge product
line all at once.

Most small makers work through agents in Taiwan, who will find a
company to make their components. The manufacturer never sees the
factory. Our engineer had some surprising encounters - he visited a
factory who was manufacturing aluminum cranks for a U.S. company, but
the factory's entire equipment consisted of injection molding machines
for plastics. Clearly, they had got the job somehow and were farming
it out to somebody else... most likely in China.

Regarding U.S. broaching houses: I have found that working with makers
who have no experience with our product type is fraught with
difficulty. I would not order a randonneur bike from a framebuilder
who specializes in racing frames, and I would not work with a company
to make bicycle cranks unless they have experience in making them.
Even when working with companies who have made bicycle cranks, we find
a lot of (small) bugs that need to be worked out. Our goal is to
present a product that is perfect, not leave the RD to the customers.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread islaysteve
Lots of good and thought-provoking points made here by several people.  I'll 
just add something that occurs to me.  We, on this group, are consumers.  I 
mean that both in the general and specific sense.  We are all certainly 
consumers of rather expensive, high-quality bicycles.  For some of us, that 
may be the one area in our lives that consumes most of our cash.  But I 
kind of doubt that that is the case for most here.  I think there are quite 
a few of us that fit the profile with me:  Aging boomers with a comfortable 
amount of disposable income who spend it not only on lugged-steel bicycles, 
but on the more normal items of Western life.  Like a fair amount of 
clothing, appliances, and electronics.  Not to mention automobiles.  So the 
point I am getting to is, I certainly couldn't afford to buy American in all 
of those areas.  Maybe not even in one of them, exclusively.  It would be 
nice.  We choose here to focus on the purchases that fuel our passion, and 
that is certainly an appropriate discussion to have in this forum.  I will 
think about the points raised here when I make my next bicycle-related 
purchase, and other purchases as well.  My last one was from RBW, and both 
items, I think are made in Europe.   And I thank Grant for making those 
products, and that knowledge, available.  Cheers, Steve 

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[RBW] Re: So Torn, Cannot Decide

2011-10-07 Thread islaysteve
Do you have frequent flyer miles?  This is a lovely time of year to visit 
the San Francisco Bay Area!  (not quite kidding!)

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[RBW] Re: Samuel P Taylor Wet and wild Point Reyes Mini Trip. Ride Report and Photos

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
Excellent ride, excellent fog. I've never bike-camped, but this makes me 
want to trace your route and do it. Thanks for sharing it.
 
Joe Bernard
Fairfield, CA.

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[RBW] Re: Stem length question - WTB shorter replacement - how short???

2011-10-07 Thread Jay
After playing around a little more with height and rotation, I found a
lightly used 9cm on Amazon of all places.
I'll let you know how it goes.

FWIW rotating the bars a little bit makes a huge difference in which
position is more comfortable. Flat ramps = most comfortable on the
ramps. Rotating the bars down just a little bits puts me in the drops
most of the time.

Jay

On Oct 7, 4:48 pm, Steve yngp...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I have a 9 cm (measured end-to-end) stem made by Nitto, Not sure what
 model it is, but it's shorter than the technomic dynamic with only 140
 mm length and 85 mm above the minimum in insertion line.  Further,
 it's for 25.4 mm clamp diameter bars and has a hole drilled and tapped
 for the installation of a bell.  Willing to sell for cheap if you're
 (or anyone else) is interested.

 On Oct 1, 11:29 am, Jay robin...@gmail.com wrote:







  I have a Sam Hillborne with a 10 cm stem Technomic and Noodle bars 5
  cm above saddle height.

  This feels too short. I can reach all the various positions with my
  arms almost totally straight, but not locked.

  Also, I would like to try lowering the bars a few cms. Dusting off my
  high school trig - lowering the stem 3.25 cm puts the bars 1 cm
  farther away. change in stem height. With my current stem this is too
  far.

  So -
  1. Do I want 8 cm or 9?
  2. Does anyone have one they want to get rid off?
  3. Does anyone want to buy the 10 cm, with 500 miles and a few
  scratches on it?

  Jay

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[RBW] FS: Paul Gino Headlight Mount $12

2011-10-07 Thread Jim Schwappach
Slightly used, but still in perfect condition.  Price as new: $20+tax
+shipping.

Price includes shipping to the Western United States.

From the Paul website: http://www.paulcomp.com/ginolightmount.html

The Gino Light Mount can be used to mount lights to any M5 threaded
eyelet, rackmount, or braze on.

By mounting a light at mid-fork or dropout eyelets, it casts light on
the ground at a much shallower angle, better revealing contours and
bumps in the road.

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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Michael_S
The White Ind cranks are machined from billet rather than cold forged. The 
cold forging process increases the mechanical strength of the crank arm and 
spider making a much more stiff and durable design.  
 
 The manufacure of such an item is doable in the US, it's just that the cost 
of tooling and process development to optimize the fabrication sequence is a 
big cost hurdle to overcome.  The other issue is market, as the big 3 have 
pushed the crank bottom bracket design away from square tapers. The square 
taper crankset is really a niche market.  
 
~mike 
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Samuel P Taylor Wet and wild Point Reyes Mini Trip. Ride Report and Photos

2011-10-07 Thread Jim Mather
Looks like a truly epic trip! And roast pig compensates for a lot of
suffering in my book.

jim m
wc ca

On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 11:43 AM, EastBayGuy goodwin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Y'all,
 It was my Uncles 50th Birthday on Saturday so I took the opportunity to make
 a mini trip out of it and headed out on Saturday morning and caught the
 first Bart train to Embarcadero  to start my Journey. The ride to Fairfax
 was beautiful and I arrived a bit early so I decided to ride out to Samuel
 P Taylor and doubled back to Fairfax for the Party.
 Woke up a bit hung over and headed back to Samuel P Taylor for some
 relaxation and to wait for a buddy to drive and meet me for the night. The
 weather was amazing and clear for the night, but Monday would be a different
 story.
 Started riding to the Point Reyes Ranger Station to check in for my campsite
 for the night and proceeded to Point Reyes Station for munchies at Bovine
 Bakery and to wait for the Rain to subside so I could push to camp. After
 eating to many Pastries and a few pieces of there amazing Pizza, I pressed
 on to Sky Camp. I decided to Hike up 3 1/2 miles up Horse Trail to Sky Camp
 and it was amazing even though I was getting rained on Hard all the way up.
 Half way up and being soaked head to toe, I was second guessing my decision
 to camp for the night. But I pressed on.
 Set up camp and decided to wait out the storm. I was in my tent from 8:00 Pm
 to 7:00 Am waiting out the storm, but the views in the morning of the fog
 rolling in was definitely worth the cold and wetness. It
 was absolutely beautiful.
 I was supposed to stay another night at Hawk Camp but that was put on hold
 since everything I had was soaked to the bone and I had to ride back in my
 flip flops, since my Sambas were filled with water in the morning. I will
 save that trip for when the weather is better. The medium saddle sack and my
 Barsack kept everything dry, with a little help from some Garbage Bags and
 Ponchos.
 A great trip, meet allot of fellow bikers along the way and
 will definitely do it again. Here are a few Pictures of the trip.
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/54527498@N06/sets/72157627832794810/

 Cheers!
 Dustin G
 Walnut Creek Ca



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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Another thing that occurred to me is that manufacture, which I think of as the 
fabrication and finishing of a product from raw materials, is most likely going 
to happen in a place where conditions are fairly reasonable, since 
manufacturing implies a certain level of industrialization, access to seaports, 
etc. It's the mining and smelting of metals in some war-torn African or South 
Asian country or the Chinese hinterland where I imagine the exploitation of 
human labor is a given. 

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[RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
I have a never-been-faced Hilsen frame, and am trying to determine how 
important it is to have that job done before installing a Shimano cartridge 
bottom bracket. The tool would run me about $300 for something I won't use 
much, and I'm loathe to take it to a bike shop (I have a don't scratch my 
bike phobia about such establishments). Do I need to buy this tool?
 
Thanks,
Joe you can work on it if you promise not to touch it Bernard
Fairfield, CA. 

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Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread Eric Norris
Joe:

Because the bearings in your cartridge bottom bracket are already installed and 
aligned with the shell of the cartridge, I would guess that facing the frame 
isn't needed. In the days of bearings with cups that sat on the frame, facing 
was more important, since any misalignment in the faces of the BB would result 
in a corresponding misalignment of the cups.

--Eric N
Sent from my iPad2

On Oct 7, 2011, at 10:18 AM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a never-been-faced Hilsen frame, and am trying to determine how 
 important it is to have that job done before installing a Shimano cartridge 
 bottom bracket. The tool would run me about $300 for something I won't use 
 much, and I'm loathe to take it to a bike shop (I have a don't scratch my 
 bike phobia about such establishments). Do I need to buy this tool?
  
 Thanks,
 Joe you can work on it if you promise not to touch it Bernard
 Fairfield, CA.
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Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread William
I agree with Eric.  It's not necessary.  You don't even have to scrub the 
paint off the drive side, but if you want to put out the effort go ahead and 
do that at least.  The left hand side is actually better protected leaving 
the paint covering that metal, since a typical cartridge left side cup won't 
cover that exposed metal.  

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Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
I just watched Mark's chasing shell, installing BB YouTube video again, 
and it states a couple times that they chase all their frames before 
selling, so it appears it's already been done, anyway. Yay! Thanks, gang.

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[RBW] Supreme 35's on a Rambouillet or LongLow

2011-10-07 Thread Forrest
Has anyone run Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x35's on a Ramboulliet or a 
LongLow (without fenders)? I have JB's (33's) on my LongLow now. Not a lot 
of extra clearance at the chain stays, but enough. RBW site says the Supreme 
35's measure 33 on a 21 mm rim. I'd like to try those on my LongLow, which I 
think has very similar geometry to a Rambouillet.

The other tire I've been thinking of running on the LongLow (my pavement 
bike) are Schwalbe Marathon Racers 700x30, but I bet they measure actual 27 
or 28. That would be okay.

Any tips from the group (based in relevant experience or knowledge) would be 
most welcome. Thanks!

-- Forrest (Iowa City)

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Re: [RBW] Samuel P Taylor Wet and wild Point Reyes Mini Trip. Ride Report and Photos

2011-10-07 Thread EastBayGuy
Thanks Jim and Joe. It was a blast. Unfortunately Jim, the Pig was at 
the beginning of my Journey, not after the suffering (kinda sorta suffering)

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[RBW] 2x7 AHH, no front derailer

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
Ok, I've got this gorgeous silvery green Hilsen frame Rocky sold me, and I'm 
conjuring up build options. I'm thinking of doing a semi-Quickbeam-ish 
thing: I have an IRD 13-32 7-speed freewheel on a Phil hub..thinking of 
adding my very-most-super-cool American CNCed Precision Billet rear 
derailer, and a Shimano XT 8-speed-era crank with the granny removed for a 
42-32 double. No front derailer, shifting Quickbeam style. 
 
Will I have any trouble with the chain leaping off the cranks during rear 
shifts?
 
Joe Bernard
Fairfield, CA.

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[RBW] New-to-me production framebuilder in Portland

2011-10-07 Thread Allan in Portland
Well, not me personally, but it's new to the new owners.

I suppose whether this is on or off topic is a matter of opinion. (IMO, off 
since I'm pretty sure they don't braze, and I doubly doubt after getting 
Waterford up to speed by way of Toyo, Grant would ever switch suppliers.) 
But, given all the country of origin discussion on the list, I thought some 
would find it interesting.

http://bikeportland.org/2011/10/07/new-portland-bike-frame-manufacturer-has-ellsworth-roots-60236#more-60236

Regards,
-Allan

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[RBW] Re: 2x7 AHH, no front derailer

2011-10-07 Thread Allan in Portland
Probably not, but ultimately I think depends on your chain line.

I had a 9 speed cassette with a Sugino 3 ring in front. I moved the outer 
ring the center position, put a chain guard on the outer position, and left 
off the front derailer. Riding in the middle and large end of the cassette 
gears was never a problem. Shifting itself was never a problem. However, if 
I was in the smallest 1 or 2 cogs the chain would have a tendency to pop-off 
the front ring and trap between the chain ring and the chain guard. It 
wasn't shifting that caused the problem, it was bumps/jarring that made 
slack that allowed the pull of the extreme chain line to derail the chain.

Good luck,
-Allan

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Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread René Sterental
Actually, I think that they chase the frames they build up, not the frames
they sell standalone. I've always bought frames from them and it's only when
I ask them to install the BB that they chase it.

I may be wrong, but that's what I've observed with my frames.

René

On Fri, Oct 7, 2011 at 10:34 AM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just watched Mark's chasing shell, installing BB YouTube video again,
 and it states a couple times that they chase all their frames before
 selling, so it appears it's already been done, anyway. Yay! Thanks, gang.

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Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread Rex Kerr
I think that it's hard to say anything is definitively always true there.
:-)  (I mean that in a good way, always tinkering with and trying to improve
their bikes and processes)

My bare AHH frame came with the BB shell chased and faced.  When I'd asked
beforehand if they'd do it, the response was that they always do.

On Fri, Oct 7, 2011 at 1:15 PM, René Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Actually, I think that they chase the frames they build up, not the frames
 they sell standalone. I've always bought frames from them and it's only when
 I ask them to install the BB that they chase it.

 I may be wrong, but that's what I've observed with my frames.

 René

 On Fri, Oct 7, 2011 at 10:34 AM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just watched Mark's chasing shell, installing BB YouTube video again,
 and it states a couple times that they chase all their frames before
 selling, so it appears it's already been done, anyway. Yay! Thanks, gang.

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[RBW] Atlantis-inspired custom touring bike for sale

2011-10-07 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I'm selling my touring bike to fund some adventures, and, while it isn't a 
Riv, there's probably enough of a Riv connection that it will be of interest 
here. 

In 2004 I bought an Atlantis, which was my main/only bike for several years. 
At some point, I decided that I wanted to try a custom bike that was like 
the Atlantis in terms of fit and personality. I knew Curt Goodrich from 
his Rivendell connection and because he is local, so after researching a 
bit, asked Curt to build me my ultimate touring bike. I wanted a fit similar 
to that of my 58 cm Atlantis, but with clearance for a 26x2.35 tire with 
fenders and I preferred the stiffness and versatility of a 1-1/8 threadless 
steerer. Otherwise, I gave Curt a lot of creative liberty, even about the 
color. Most of the frame is fillet brazed, but the fork crown is one of the 
bi-plane Pacenti crowns and the seatpost junction has a pretty lug. Sort of 
an unorthodox mix of joinery, but it looks elegant. This was the result 
(before I got it dirty):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/twowheelflight/3277222915/

As you can see, tire clearance is HUGE.

Here are the frame geometry specs.
ST=58 (center to top)
TT=58 (center to center)
TT slope=2 degrees
Seat angle=72
Head angle=72
Fork rake=50mm
BB drop=62
CS=44.5cm

Here are some current pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twowheelflight/tags/goodrichforsale/

Parts:
Seatpost: Nitto frog
Bar: Nitto Noodle 46 cm
Stem: Nitto UI-5GX 90 mm
Headset: Chris King Steelset
BB: Shimano UN-54
Crank: Sugino XD-something
Cassette: 9sp 11-34 or similar
Chain: SRAM PC-971 or similar
rder: XTR 950 series Rapid rise
fder: Suntour XC Pro
shifters: Dura-Ace 9sp bar-ends
brakes: Tektro v-brakes with Tektro levers

Wheels:
Phil Wood 48h tandem rear hub (bolt on style) with 140 mm spacing to reduce 
dish, laced to polished Sun RhynoLite with Wheelsmith butted spokes
Schmidt 40h SON28 dynamo front hub, laced to polished Sun RhynoLite with 
Wheelsmith butted spokes. IQ Fly headlight is included.
Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 26x2.0.

There is also a slick little brazed-on rear cable hanger for cantilever 
brakes, and a brazed-on taillight mount on the seatpost, with taillight 
included.

The fenders are Berthoud stainless 26x60, painted candy-apple red to match 
the frameset.

This is a wonderful bicycle, but the paint has always been soft and, after 
several years of use, it looks a little rough. I put a small chip in the 
paint as I was carrying it out of Curt's shop, and have had many more paint 
chipping accidents while riding, transporting, or parking it. Most of the 
chips are in the outer coat, with the underlying primer coat still intact. 
The most egregious paint damage was to the drive side chainstay, which 
occurred when transporting the bike on a friend's car rack, and some part of 
his bike gouged the paint in this area. As far as I know, there is no 
significant rust on any of the gouges, and no dents.

No saddle (unless you want the cheapie WTB saddle in the picture). I can 
include the racks shown for $100 each. I also have a lightweight wheelset 
that can be included if desired.

I'm asking $2900 shipping in CONUS. Please contact off-list if interested, 
or on-list if you simply want to discuss the bike.

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Re: [RBW] New-to-me production framebuilder in Portland

2011-10-07 Thread Tim McNamara

On Oct 7, 2011, at 2:24 PM, Allan in Portland wrote:

 after getting Waterford up to speed by way of Toyo


Huh?

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Re: [RBW] New-to-me production framebuilder in Portland

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
I read that as after Grant got hooked up with Waterford again in a major 
way after Toyo couldn't meet all his frame needs.

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis-inspired custom touring bike for sale

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
Wow. Those white tires really set off the candy apple paint. You need 
sunglasses to look at it!
 
Joe Bernard
Fairfield, CA.

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis-inspired custom touring bike for sale

2011-10-07 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I actually felt a little self-conscious with that set-up at first.

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis-inspired custom touring bike for sale

2011-10-07 Thread Michael_S
wow... talk about pimp my ride!   It seems pretty common to copy the proven 
Atlantis geometry and add a few tweaks to make it exactly what you want. 
I've been considering that for a while. One thing I've found is that it's 
tough to find a 25.4 fork crown with the same clearance as the Atlantis. You 
can sleeve the Pacenti  to make it work, but that's about it. 
 
I'm not a red bike person but it certainly is a looker.  The seat tube lug 
looks like a Pacenti Artisan to me.
 
~mike

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Re: [RBW] New-to-me production framebuilder in Portland

2011-10-07 Thread Allan in Portland
OK, I know one should _always_ consult the internet before insinuating a 
statement of fact... and yet I cannot help but persist in shooting from the 
hip.

from http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-hunqapillar.htm
The Hunqapillar frame is an interesting mix of materials and 
co-conspirators. Some are made in Taiwan by a team of builders trained by 
Tetsu Ishigaki, of Toyo.

Sheepish regards,
-Allan

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[RBW] Re: 2x7 AHH, no front derailer

2011-10-07 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
My initial reaction was I'd be a little wary, but as I think about it, I'm 
not sure why.  There's no intrinsic reason I can come up with.  The FD might 
help to keep the chain on, and I do know folks who still have one in place 
with a single ring setup to use as a chain keeper. 

There are probably two immediate things which I'd watch for: (1) the angle 
of the chain when on the inner ring might cause it to catch any lifters on 
the big ring (those ramps and pins used to assist shifting) if you end up in 
the smaller sprockets in the back, and (2) the ability of the rear 
derailleur to pick up chain slack when in the smaller front chainring. 

You might run the gearing through Sheldon's calculator, to see if you are 
really gaining very much range.  

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

I think if you are just going to use it mostly in the larger ring, and just 
use the small ring as a climbing/bailout gear (only using the larger three 
rear sprockets, for example), it ought to work. 

hope that helps,

- Jim

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[RBW] Re: parts made in places where worker conditions are fairly reasonable

2011-10-07 Thread Jim


On Oct 6, 3:15 pm, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 This type of outsourcing to the cheapest bidder not only has
 implications for labor standards, but also quality. It is not uncommon
 to substitute a cheaper alloy. As a result, you find chainrings that
 are labeled as 7075 aluminum, but wear so quickly that there is little
 doubt that they are 6000-series. That way, the company could underbid
 all the other companies who had to factor in the higher cost of the
 raw material... and they got the bid.

Could have also skipped or screwed up the temper.

Jim

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[RBW] Re: Supreme 35's on a Rambouillet or LongLow

2011-10-07 Thread David Spranger
I run Schwalbe Delta Cruiser 700x35 on my Rambouillet with fenders. Not sure 
of actual measurements, but I can check when I get home. I am using 19mm 
rims.

David

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[RBW] Baggins and Carradice Bags for Sale

2011-10-07 Thread Marc Schwartz
Hiya, Rivendell Real Bike Devotees;

I find that I am above my critical sack mass and must scale back through the 
sale of some quality bike bags.

1) Early model Baggins panniers; I believe these were made in the late 1990's. 
They are tan canvas and leather of fairly large capacity (approx. 20 ltrs/ 
side?) designed to drape over a largish front or rear rack and attach to the 
sides of the rack by cotton web straps that wrap around both the rack and the 
front of the bags (these straps have fastex plastic buckles).. Very secure, 
simple, and old-school.  There are zippered pouch pockets on the cover flaps 
for both sides, as well as numerous D rings for lash points. A previous owner 
sewed various bike culture (er...sub-culture, sorry, Bike Snob NYC) related 
patches to the canvas, they remain as beausage. Good used condition, asking 
$150 including shipping to CONUS.

2) Baggins Hobo Sack handlebar bag. Tan cotton canvas (I think these are Filson 
Tin Cloth) and Leather. Large zippered main compartment, 2 flapped and buckled 
pockets facing rider on either side of stem/head tube, small un-flapped pocket 
facing front. I think Riv still sells a Smythe version of this bag? Acorn also 
makes something similar. Good used condition, asking $90 including shipping to 
CONUS.

3) Carradice Camper Long Flap great big expandable capacity saddlebag. Black 
waxed cotton canvas with white leather straps. Older version with cloth 
Carradice logo rather than the new metal name tag. 2 flapped and buckled side 
pockets. Huge main compartment.
Good used condition, asking $125 including shipping to CONUS.

I will send photos to interested parties. I prefer payment through Paypal for 
the security provided. Please contact me at mschw...@nmsu.edu.

Thanks,
Marc

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[RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

2011-10-07 Thread Dennis
I have been lurking a while as I wait for my AHH frame to arrive (RIV
content) - I have lots of questions about the build but thought I'd
comment on the Flyer question. I originally got the VO Model 5 saddle
for my Trek 880 (a resurrected hybrid) and used it successfully for
some loaded touring and longer day rides. I did find that the string
that holds the sides together would stretch and in some cases break
allowing the saddle to sag somewhat. Dealing with this issue, I still
felt that the springs gave a comfortable ride. I now have a Flyer on
my Rocky Mountain Sherpa touring bike and have found it to be even
more comfortable - I have used it on numerous day rides, a couple
loaded overnights, a couple 200km brevets and 1/2 of this year's Cycle
Oregon (the 1/2 is another story) - all told probably about 2500-3000
miles. I really don't notice the springs unless I am riding on root
strewn trails or when an unexpected pothole pops up. Then it is great
because of the shock absorbing nature of the springs. The only other
time I might notice the springs is when I am in the wrong gear and
spinning madly like a hamster and bouncing up  down on the saddle.
Cannot blame the saddle for that though. I love the firm leather and
did not really experience any breakin-period though I did give it the
proofride  treatment top and bottom initially.
However, I am looking to experiment with a B17 on the AHH when it
arrives.

FWIW
Dennis (hoping for good news from RIV soon) Hogan



On Oct 7, 6:59 am, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 The springs on the Flyer on my Atlantis squeak, too, but I find it soothing 
 somehow.  They're definitely responding to bumps etc (i'm 190 or so).  And 
 despite the fact that my Flyer is carved for decoration (I know, I know -- I 
 can be a bit of a dandy), the leather has held up extremely well.  Never wet, 
 though.

 
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
 [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Shine
 Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:17 AM
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

 At 180 pounds, the springs on my Flyer barely and rarely compress enough to 
 feel or even sense. I am still riding the old way, by shifting weight onto 
 the pedals if I see a pot hole, tracks, sharp curb, etc.  For me and my 
 riding style, the springs are virtually useless. The leather on my Flyer is 
 not at all saggy. Quite the opposite. It is the hardest Brooks I have ever 
 owned (and, frankly, the most attractive in terms of brown tints and tones). 
 The saddle is heavy, also. All that said, I still have it mounted on my 
 Quickbeam for some reason.

 
 From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Thu, October 6, 2011 9:09:56 PM
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: B-17 vs Flyer

 I found the leather on two different Flyer saddles to stretch and lose 
 tension really quickly.  And the springs were always annoyingly squeaky.  
 Don't know about the rail lenghts.

 On Thu, Oct 6, 2011 at 8:41 PM, Joe Bernard 
 joerem...@gmail.commailto:joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is a fuzzy memory from 5 years ago, but I would estimate the difference 
 is about a centimeter. Grant is right about the springs: At 160lbs. back then 
 (oh, glory days), the only difference between the two saddles was looks and 
 weight. Those springs didn't even buzz for me.

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 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

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 To ensure compliance with 

Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread CycloFiend
on 10/7/11 10:34 AM, Joe Bernard at joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

I just watched Mark's chasing shell, installing BB YouTube video again,
and it states a couple times that they chase all their frames before
selling, so it appears it's already been done, anyway. Yay! Thanks, gang.

Just as a minor point, chasing is essentially cleaning out the threads,
while facing is making sure that the two faces of the bb (or both ends of
any tube, such as a headtube) are parallel to one another.

But, unless you are using a loose bearing bb with cups that require such
alignment, it's not terribly necessarly.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com


Nigel did some work for some of the other riders at Allied, onces who still
rode metal.  He hadn't liked it when Chevette had gone for a paper frame.
-- William Gibson, Virtual Light


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Re: [RBW] BB shell facing

2011-10-07 Thread Joe Bernard
Ah, thanks for the clarification. I had a feeling the two terms weren't 
fungible.

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[RBW] Re: 2x7 AHH, no front derailer

2011-10-07 Thread benzzoy
Many years ago, I tried this on a mountain bike.  It didn't work well
precisely because of what Allan in Portland mentioned, that is the
normal/routine bumps and jarring can derail the chain, sometimes at
the most inopportune time.  Because my mountain bike at that time had
a 11-28, the chain had to be long to wrap around that range and the
rear derailleur cage wasn't nearly strong enough to provide adequate
chain tension.  That's probably why CX bikes have a chain keeper.

If you run a chain guard, it may help things (didn't try) and
certainly the flexy chain and shift ramps on modern chainrings do not
help.

Why the aversion to a front derailleur?


On Oct 7, 12:22 pm, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ok, I've got this gorgeous silvery green Hilsen frame Rocky sold me, and I'm
 conjuring up build options. I'm thinking of doing a semi-Quickbeam-ish
 thing: I have an IRD 13-32 7-speed freewheel on a Phil hub..thinking of
 adding my very-most-super-cool American CNCed Precision Billet rear
 derailer, and a Shimano XT 8-speed-era crank with the granny removed for a
 42-32 double. No front derailer, shifting Quickbeam style.

 Will I have any trouble with the chain leaping off the cranks during rear
 shifts?

 Joe Bernard
 Fairfield, CA.

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