Re: [RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Sine Wave]

Of course, if one goes with a 10 speed+ setup, the shifters will have to be
changed  as well. And I'm guessing the angle of the chainstays on the
Hunqapillar with 135 spacing will require a BB change if using a larger
single chainring. (Sorry.. using a tablet and stray contact with the screen
caused a premature "send". Lol.

On Monday, March 24, 2014, Sine Wave  wrote:

> Of course, if one goes with a 10 speed+ setup, the shifters will have to
> be changed  as well. And I'm guessing the angle of the chainstays on the
> Hunqapillar with 135 spacing will require a BB change
>
> On Monday, March 24, 2014, Philip Williamson 
> >
> wrote:
>
>> I was looking at these, too. Apparently the thick/thin chainrings are the
>> new thing. I could go with a 1x9 for a bike...
>>
>> Philip
>> www.biketinker.com
>>
>> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-7, Sine Wave wrote:
>>>
>>> Check out the Wolf Tooth chainrings; they're designed specifically to
>>> work with 1xX drive trains and supposedly obviate the need for any sort of
>>> chain keeper. I haven't used one but I am planning on on getting one. And
>>> they make them for 110bcd cranks. Also, the shimano shadow plus RD would be
>>> worth looking into. You would have to go with a 10 speed setup for that
>>> though I think. But you would gain more ratios for the bottom and top end.
>>
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>

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Re: [RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Sine Wave]

I agree. In fact, I only have one gear. But I was just throwing out options
for those who want more.

On Monday, March 24, 2014, Matthew J  wrote:

> Most gears I have are 1x5.  Could not be happier.
>
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[RBW] FS: ebisu 61.5 custom

[Joe c.]

https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/121039961@N02/

$3800. On display at Jitensha if you want to test ride. It's posted on I bob 
with the components list. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell SaddleSack medium olive

[Brad Mitchell]

Sold! Thanks all



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 3:42:57 PM UTC-5, Brad Mitchell wrote:
>
> I have too many bags, and am trying to cut back. I have a really nice 
> medium size SaddleSack if anyone is interested..figured I'd post here first 
> before trying eBay. Has some of the usual scuff marks, otherwise no rips, 
> tears, etc. All zippers and buttons work perfectly. Really nice shape. 
> Would like $150, which would include shipping to the lower 48. 
>
> I also have a vintage Schwinn NOS saddlebag support (basically the same 
> design as the old Rivendell Silver Hupe) that also works well with this 
> bag. Can throw that in for an extra $30.
>
> Please let me know off-list if interested (frit...@gmail.com). Thanks!
>
> brad
>

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

[Michael]

Tony,
Does that 7cm Nitto stem say "Nitto" or "Technomic" on the stem?
190mm rise or 225?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

[Michael]

>
> PS - when PM-ing me, please send your mailing address, if buying, and your 
> cost limit to ship. That way I can just send it off when I take it to the 
> UPS place if it is going to cost less than your limit. Saves me a trip. 
> Thanks. After shipping I will email you with receipt, tracking number, and 
> total price with the shipping fee, whatever it is, so you can paypal me.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

[Michael]

>
> Try this link if above doesn't work:
>
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/sets/72157642885271225/

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[RBW] Re: Compass Loup Loup Pass 650Bx38

[Michael]

Let us know how easily they mount on Synergies, too, please. Particularly 
the bead seating. Thanks.

I have Hetres now, but when I need new tires I will be trying to decide 
> between these vs. Hetres.
>
I wonder if one is less prone to flats than the other?

Looking forward to the ride report, too. God bless you and have a great 
time!!

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[RBW] FS: Park Torque, Nitto, Pletscher, Brooks, Power Grips, bell, seatpost

[Michael]

*Park TW2 Torque Wrench*, *New In Box* - 40$
*NITTO* Technomic 7cm/26.0/225mm rise stem - 35$ - used for only a few 
months, and still looks really nice! Some scratches on riser from use.
*Power Grips* Straps and hardware. *Practically new*  - 15$
*Speedplay Light Action Cleat Covers* - *new *- 10$
*Bar end bell.* *new* - 8$ Plugs into your bar end. Twist it to ring it.
Olde *Pletscher *silver colored rear rack - 20$ Came on a used Soma I 
bought years ago.
30.9 Black *Fomax* seatpost - 15$
*Velo* Road saddle - black - 15$
and last, but not least...ye olde *Brooks B17 Special(?), copper rivets and 
silver colored rails* - Make me an offer! I have no idea what it is worth. 
>From the 1990's from what I gather from the stamp on bottom, I think, still 
comfy as all get-out to ride on. Been Proofhided twice by me in the last 
two years but still looks dry. Came on my used Bleriot when I bought it.

Paypal please.
Buyer pays shipping to anywhere in the Continental US of A.
Thanks for your consideration. I'll send you Pletscher rack pics if 
interested. Have none to post on Flikr right now.
See pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/organize/?start_tab=new_set

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

Patrick,

I changed my 26/36/46 to 26/40/bashguard last year. It was easy to do and I 
couldn't be happier with it. All that was required was to remove the middle 
and outer chainrings and install the new ones. No messing around with BB, 
FD or anything else.

In fact, I liked not shifting in front so much that I went to a single cog 
in back too. Sounds like that wouldn't work for the terrrain you ride in 
though.

Jay

On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 4:11:34 AM UTC+2, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 03/24/2014 09:53 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
> > Except for the price tag, the 11x1 drivetrains sure look attractive. 
> > 
>
> However, chain angularity doesn't look too good for such drivetrains; 
> what's more, the range isn't as good as you can get with two chain rings. 
>
> Honestly, it's not like chain ring shifts are all that hard. 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

[Bill Lindsay]

and by 3/16th of course you mean 3/32nd.

;-)

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[RBW] Compass Loup Loup Pass 650Bx38

[Jim Bronson]

I bought 3 of the regular, non-EL model with tan sidewalls around 12:45
PDT.  Shipping via Priority Mail, so hopefully they will be here by
Thursday.  I will let you all know how they measure out on my Synergies.

Also will be taking them out on the Austin 400K this weekend, after my 5
flat weekend on the Houston 600K on the 15th/16th on Pari-Motos, I am
hoping for a little better luck on these Loup Loup Passses.

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: Frozen, then sloppy, spring ramble

[dougP]

Patrick:

Thanks for posting.  I never knew that snow sang.  But like Michael, my 
experience with snow is limited.  Love the photo where you can see the tire 
rut gradually get deeper until the bike falls over.  I could hear your 
laughter from here when I saw the photo.  Looks like loads of fun.

dougP

On Monday, March 24, 2014 1:27:37 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> It was below 20˚F when I started out, so the snow and ruts on the 
> unimproved road was frozen solid. Freeze/thaw cycle in Spring makes 
> backcountry riding extra adventurous.
>
> I tested out the theory that riding faster over crusted snow means you 
> don’t fall through. Worked great, until it didn’t. Crunch! Flip! Plop. 
> Hysterical laughing for way too long. It’s great being a kid!
>
> Made the reservoir after some mid-thigh snow pushing. The ice was singing 
> from the heat change in the morning sun. Fantastic deep melodious tones, a 
> lot like whale song. Mesmerizing.
>
> Heading back things had warmed up to 40˚F and were fantastically sloppy, 
> muddy, and grand. Had to dodge people out shooting as much as possible 
> (seriously? on Monday morning in spring? Who does that? But they were 
> likely asking the same thing of me). A fantastic way to spend 6 hours! Now 
> to recover from the gunshots sounds and massive construction vehicles 
> blowing air horns. It’s a risky world out there when you don’t have a fully 
> functioning brain!
>
> Here’s a few photos:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157642864727485/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>  
>

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[RBW] FS: Original Quickbeam Wheels $107

[Eric Norris]

These are the original wheels that came with my first-gen green Quickbeam. 
Nice, sturdy wheels that would love a set of tires 28 or wider. Free/Free rear 
hub is fitted for a quick release skewer (not shown in the photo).

I used these for a short time. They've spent most of their life doing nothing 
much, and are ready for adventures on your bike. Straight and true, but in need 
of some cleaning. 

Included are a cog and lockring and a set of Paselas with some life left in 
them. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/13395350464/

$107 includes shipping in the CONUS.

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

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[RBW] Re: Frozen, then sloppy, spring ramble

[allenmichael]

Patrick,
This is my favorite ride report and set of pics to date. There are a lot of 
wonderful things about living on the coast in California (SF), but no 
opportunities for riding in hub-deep snow and listening to it sing in the 
afternoon. Thanks for posting.

Michael Allen

On Monday, March 24, 2014 1:27:37 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> It was below 20˚F when I started out, so the snow and ruts on the 
> unimproved road was frozen solid. Freeze/thaw cycle in Spring makes 
> backcountry riding extra adventurous.
>
> I tested out the theory that riding faster over crusted snow means you 
> don’t fall through. Worked great, until it didn’t. Crunch! Flip! Plop. 
> Hysterical laughing for way too long. It’s great being a kid!
>
> Made the reservoir after some mid-thigh snow pushing. The ice was singing 
> from the heat change in the morning sun. Fantastic deep melodious tones, a 
> lot like whale song. Mesmerizing.
>
> Heading back things had warmed up to 40˚F and were fantastically sloppy, 
> muddy, and grand. Had to dodge people out shooting as much as possible 
> (seriously? on Monday morning in spring? Who does that? But they were 
> likely asking the same thing of me). A fantastic way to spend 6 hours! Now 
> to recover from the gunshots sounds and massive construction vehicles 
> blowing air horns. It’s a risky world out there when you don’t have a fully 
> functioning brain!
>
> Here’s a few photos:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157642864727485/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Steve Palincsar]

On 03/24/2014 07:53 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks, Steve. Maybe I'm using "cross over" incorrectly. I mean the 
issue where you don't want to use your small gears when you're in your 
small front ring and vice-versa for the big cog. I'm fine with 
shifting down or up five gears when I shift the front one.


"Crossing over" means shifting from one chain ring to the other. Small 
front/small rear and large front/large rear combinations are what's 
known as "cross chaining".  You definitely want to avoid cross 
chaining.  Not only does the chain run at an extreme angle, which 
exacerbates wear, but often the chain can contact the other chain ring.  
One big reason for having two chain rings is so that you can avoid 
extreme angles; another is that you can extend the range and have higher 
high and lower low gears than you can on a single chain ring.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Steve Palincsar]

On 03/24/2014 09:12 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks, Dave. Would you mind elaborating on what you love about the 
wide range double? I realize we ride different surfaces and terrain, 
but I am trying to understand the experiential difference. Can I use 
all the gears in each?


No, you do not want to use the big front/big rear and small front/small 
rear combinations.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Steve Palincsar]

On 03/24/2014 09:53 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:

Except for the price tag, the 11x1 drivetrains sure look attractive.



However, chain angularity doesn't look too good for such drivetrains; 
what's more, the range isn't as good as you can get with two chain rings.


Honestly, it's not like chain ring shifts are all that hard.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Deacon Patrick]

Except for the price tag, the 11x1 drivetrains sure look attractive. Thank 
you all for helping me explore the pros and cons of a wide range double.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 24, 2014 7:15:47 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:
>
> Patrick:
>
> In addition to Steve's mention of the wear factor on the 24, another good 
> reason to shift up as soon as you're over the top of a climb is to avoid 
> chain slap / fall-off.  It's easy to just shift up 2-3 cogs in back while 
> leaving the front on the granny.  The chain can be pretty slack under those 
> conditions, and a good bump can drop the chain off the granny.
>
> dougP
>
> On Monday, March 24, 2014 3:18:33 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid of 
>> the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there are 
>> sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher speeds. I'd 
>> prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not too bad to shift 
>> things around to a 40-24 set up. I'm going to give that a go.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Monday, March 24, 2014 4:07:00 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>>
>>> On 03/24/2014 05:30 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
>>> > This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my 
>>> > triple, and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in 
>>> > the technical jargon though. Could you please explain things to a 
>>> > dummy (because you would be. Grin.)? I currently have the  Sugino XD2 
>>> > Crank, Triple 46x36x24. and would love to drop the 46 and have someone 
>>> > a bit larger than the 36 for my big ring, plus a real ring guard. 
>>>
>>> Using a 24/36/46 triple is simplicity itself.  For riding on level to 
>>> slighly uphill terrain, stay on the 46.  When you run out of gears and 
>>> need to downshift (i.e., when you are on the next to largest rear 
>>> sprocket and need something still lower) shift to the 36.  You may need 
>>> to simultaneously upshift one or perhaps 2 in back if the gear you get 
>>> is too low, or you could just wait a few seconds to let inertia have its 
>>> way. 
>>> About the only time you'll need to think about the 24 is on grades over 
>>> 10%.  At that point, go to the granny, and possibly if the gear is too 
>>> low upshift one or perhaps 2 in back to get to a proper gear.   There's 
>>> nothing at all complex about that. 
>>>
>>> Some notes on the 24:  use it with the 3 or at most 4 largest 
>>> sprockets.  Anything beyond that and you're overlapping with the range 
>>> of the 36 and unless you can see there's even steeper terrain looming 
>>> ahead (making it desirable to stay on the granny) shift to the 36 and 
>>> downshift as necessary in back to get to the proper gear.  You don't 
>>> want to ride on the 24 any more than you need to, because wear is much 
>>> greater on the smaller chain ring than on the larger. 
>>>
>>> Likewise, if you are on the 36 and you find you are in any of the 3 
>>> smallest sprockets in back, upshift to the 46 and downshift one or two 
>>> in back to get back to the right gear. 
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[dougP]

Patrick:

In addition to Steve's mention of the wear factor on the 24, another good 
reason to shift up as soon as you're over the top of a climb is to avoid 
chain slap / fall-off.  It's easy to just shift up 2-3 cogs in back while 
leaving the front on the granny.  The chain can be pretty slack under those 
conditions, and a good bump can drop the chain off the granny.

dougP

On Monday, March 24, 2014 3:18:33 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid of 
> the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there are 
> sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher speeds. I'd 
> prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not too bad to shift 
> things around to a 40-24 set up. I'm going to give that a go.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, March 24, 2014 4:07:00 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> On 03/24/2014 05:30 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
>> > This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my 
>> > triple, and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in 
>> > the technical jargon though. Could you please explain things to a 
>> > dummy (because you would be. Grin.)? I currently have the  Sugino XD2 
>> > Crank, Triple 46x36x24. and would love to drop the 46 and have someone 
>> > a bit larger than the 36 for my big ring, plus a real ring guard. 
>>
>> Using a 24/36/46 triple is simplicity itself.  For riding on level to 
>> slighly uphill terrain, stay on the 46.  When you run out of gears and 
>> need to downshift (i.e., when you are on the next to largest rear 
>> sprocket and need something still lower) shift to the 36.  You may need 
>> to simultaneously upshift one or perhaps 2 in back if the gear you get 
>> is too low, or you could just wait a few seconds to let inertia have its 
>> way. 
>> About the only time you'll need to think about the 24 is on grades over 
>> 10%.  At that point, go to the granny, and possibly if the gear is too 
>> low upshift one or perhaps 2 in back to get to a proper gear.   There's 
>> nothing at all complex about that. 
>>
>> Some notes on the 24:  use it with the 3 or at most 4 largest 
>> sprockets.  Anything beyond that and you're overlapping with the range 
>> of the 36 and unless you can see there's even steeper terrain looming 
>> ahead (making it desirable to stay on the granny) shift to the 36 and 
>> downshift as necessary in back to get to the proper gear.  You don't 
>> want to ride on the 24 any more than you need to, because wear is much 
>> greater on the smaller chain ring than on the larger. 
>>
>> Likewise, if you are on the 36 and you find you are in any of the 3 
>> smallest sprockets in back, upshift to the 46 and downshift one or two 
>> in back to get back to the right gear. 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Dave. Would you mind elaborating on what you love about the wide 
range double? I realize we ride different surfaces and terrain, but I am 
trying to understand the experiential difference. Can I use all the gears 
in each?

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

[Shoji Takahashi]

Sounds like you should consider albastache, too. Sorry to add to the 
choices! I think Christopher Chen moved from Noodles to Albatross to 
Albastache on his Hilsen, and he mentioned being out on the albatross 
curves a lot.

I have the "standard" bullmoose and switch between it and the Noodles. I 
like the bullmoose-- very stable and lots of leverage. I have the albatross 
on my cross check set up as a cruiser. With my hands on the ends, I can 
sometimes pull/rotate 'em in the stem (particularly when it's raining out). 
You won't get that with the bullmoose.

I think the bullmoose is great for technical, because you can point the 
wheel precisely where you want. (Though it's w i d e, which might be a 
problem on narrower trails.) They're comfortable for a time, and you can 
move your hands along the wide sweep... but it's not the same as having 
different hand positions on the albatross or drops (or moustache, which I 
also have).

Good luck Patrick! 


On Monday, March 24, 2014 5:24:30 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I'm glad you mentioned the standard bullmoose, René. Thank you. My 
> favorite position on the Albatross is the outer curve, but I have no brakes 
> there, so I have to ride the handles on the downhills. It seems I could 
> well end up with the same issue with the Bosco's. How are the standard 
> bullmoose for long days in the saddle? (5-8 hours.)
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
> On Monday, March 24, 2014 12:19:30 AM UTC-6, René wrote:
>>
>> After having several flavors of the Bosco bars and really liking them for 
>> many reasons, I went back to the traditional Bullmoose bars on my 
>> Hunqapillar, but raised them as high as feasible. I like this setup even 
>> more. With the Boscos, my hands kept hurting and when riding rough terrain, 
>> I would find myself having to grip the bars very tightly (I don't think the 
>> reverse levers helped in this regard) to provent my hands from sliding 
>> forward. This created some tendinitis and hand pain that took a long time 
>> to go away.
>>
>> The higher standard Bullmoose bars take care of my neck and hand pain, 
>> and I feel I have much better control of the bike now. 
>>
>> René 
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 9:21 PM, Peter Morgano wrote:
>>
>>> I have had albas regular Boscos and now the bull moose bars. They 
>>> definitely give me more power and stiffness when climbing, a really solid 
>>> feeling. 
>>> On Mar 24, 2014 12:10 AM, "DS"  wrote:
>>>
 I'm really interested in responses to this as well as I'm really on the 
 fence about which bars to use on my Hunq build (still a few months before 
 delivery). Nothing to add, just want to get replies in my inbox.

 On Sunday, March 23, 2014 5:32:39 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I’d love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially 
> with roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. 
> How 
> do they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque 
> when 
> climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with 
> weight 
> back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any 
> comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.
>
> My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on 
> the bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don’t feel as solid 
> as 
> I would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try a 
> new cockpit if I’m loosing something in the process.
>  
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>  
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>>
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Vi

Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Dave Johnston]

Patrick, 
I can highly recommend a double using your Sugino crank and only the middle 
and inner positions.

I am using a BBG Guard-42t-28t on an old XTR 110/74 crank with a wide range 
11-34t on a Rawland rSogn (see picture) and another bike with a BBG-40t-26t 
on a Sugino XD2 crank as the drivetrain on a 650b commuter conversion and 
really like the result. I basically stay in the middle front ring 95% of 
the time, but I live in flat country where the hills are less than a 1/2 
mile long.

For the 42t I am using a ramped and pinned TA ring and on the 40t its a 
Sugino flat ring with no ramps. Both shift great with a friction downtube 
shifter.

The outer guard is made by BBG and the price is great on those.For a 
shifting setup I would go one size larger than they recommend. (aka get a 
44t guard for a 42t ring)

- Dave Johnston



On Monday, March 24, 2014 7:53:25 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thanks, Steve. Maybe I'm using "cross over" incorrectly. I mean the issue 
> where you don't want to use your small gears when you're in your small 
> front ring and vice-versa for the big cog. I'm fine with shifting down or 
> up five gears when I shift the front one.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, March 24, 2014 5:45:22 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> On 03/24/2014 06:18 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
>> > Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid 
>> > of the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there 
>> > are sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher 
>> > speeds. I'd prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not 
>> > too bad to shift things around to a 40-24 set up. I'm going to give 
>> > that a go. 
>>
>> Before you do, you might want to plot the gearing on Sheldon's gear 
>> chart.  Crossing over on a wide range double can be a real issue: unlike 
>> the one or two you need to adjust in back, with a wide range double you 
>> may have to shift 4 or 5 sprockets in back. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Nanoreview, Barlow Pass 700x38C on Dyad

[Rod Holland]

A friend is wondering about how the Cayuse Pass (700x26) measures. Anybody 
try that one?

rod

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:55:12 PM UTC-4, Ty Graham wrote:
>
> I jammed the 700x38 EL Compass Barlow Pass on a Rambouillet just as an 
> experiment.  Didn't even ride it since my QR interfered with my buddy's 
> fender set up.
>
> They rubbed his fender, but should be ridable with no fenders.  We had to 
> deflate to get through the silver brakes.
>
> Here's a picture of our quick hack. 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/13233995@N08/13180514203/
>
> Sorry I don't have better data, but I figure since no one else has tried 
> anything ...
>
> Awesome tire BTW.  I have about 35 miles on them and love them.  37mm wide 
> on my Dyads.
>
> Ty Graham
> Seattle
>
>
> On Thursday, March 20, 2014 12:28:46 PM UTC-7, allenmichael wrote:
>>
>> So they might fit on a Rambouillet without fenders? Still not anyone who 
>> has tried it?
>>
>> Michael Allen
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 6:01:06 PM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
>>>
>>> Measures out to 34mm right now, but that might change.
>>>
>>> I'm gonna go out for a ride.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

[blakcloud]

The White Industries rings are most likely 3/16's. I don't remember them 
ever making 1/8th but I could be wrong. I have owned two sets of ENO cranks 
and they have all been 3/16's. The beauty with that size is you can go 
either way with a chain. 

On Monday, March 24, 2014 1:30:02 PM UTC-4, Patrick Shea wrote:
>
> Hi Tony:
>  
> These are single speed, 1/8" (pretty sure), silver. I can look at their 
> website and find out the model. No hurry on this. I would prefer to sell as 
> I am trying to get my stuff down to the essentials. 
>  
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 3:53 AM, Tony DeFilippo 
> > wrote:
>
>> Patrick, 
>>
>> Are you interested in a trade or a straight sale?  I need to unload some 
>> of my FS/T items before I pick up any new cranks right now.  Just in case, 
>> is your crank an ENO and are the rings SS or from their VBC line?  Thanks!
>>
>> Tony
>>
>>
>> I have a WI crankset two 44-tooth rings, one silver, one black. Make 
>>> offer?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Patrick
>>>

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>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Steve. Maybe I'm using "cross over" incorrectly. I mean the issue 
where you don't want to use your small gears when you're in your small 
front ring and vice-versa for the big cog. I'm fine with shifting down or 
up five gears when I shift the front one.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 24, 2014 5:45:22 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 03/24/2014 06:18 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
> > Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid 
> > of the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there 
> > are sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher 
> > speeds. I'd prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not 
> > too bad to shift things around to a 40-24 set up. I'm going to give 
> > that a go. 
>
> Before you do, you might want to plot the gearing on Sheldon's gear 
> chart.  Crossing over on a wide range double can be a real issue: unlike 
> the one or two you need to adjust in back, with a wide range double you 
> may have to shift 4 or 5 sprockets in back. 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Steve Palincsar]

On 03/24/2014 06:18 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid 
of the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there 
are sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher 
speeds. I'd prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not 
too bad to shift things around to a 40-24 set up. I'm going to give 
that a go.


Before you do, you might want to plot the gearing on Sheldon's gear 
chart.  Crossing over on a wide range double can be a real issue: unlike 
the one or two you need to adjust in back, with a wide range double you 
may have to shift 4 or 5 sprockets in back.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

[Deacon Patrick]

Huh. I talked myself into trying my brakes so they will work in my favorite 
position on the Albatross. That has the benefit of having a lot less play 
as it is in the curves. One day soon...

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 24, 2014 3:24:30 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I'm glad you mentioned the standard bullmoose, René. Thank you. My 
> favorite position on the Albatross is the outer curve, but I have no brakes 
> there, so I have to ride the handles on the downhills. It seems I could 
> well end up with the same issue with the Bosco's. How are the standard 
> bullmoose for long days in the saddle? (5-8 hours.)
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
> On Monday, March 24, 2014 12:19:30 AM UTC-6, René wrote:
>>
>> After having several flavors of the Bosco bars and really liking them for 
>> many reasons, I went back to the traditional Bullmoose bars on my 
>> Hunqapillar, but raised them as high as feasible. I like this setup even 
>> more. With the Boscos, my hands kept hurting and when riding rough terrain, 
>> I would find myself having to grip the bars very tightly (I don't think the 
>> reverse levers helped in this regard) to provent my hands from sliding 
>> forward. This created some tendinitis and hand pain that took a long time 
>> to go away.
>>
>> The higher standard Bullmoose bars take care of my neck and hand pain, 
>> and I feel I have much better control of the bike now. 
>>
>> René 
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 9:21 PM, Peter Morgano wrote:
>>
>>> I have had albas regular Boscos and now the bull moose bars. They 
>>> definitely give me more power and stiffness when climbing, a really solid 
>>> feeling. 
>>> On Mar 24, 2014 12:10 AM, "DS"  wrote:
>>>
 I'm really interested in responses to this as well as I'm really on the 
 fence about which bars to use on my Hunq build (still a few months before 
 delivery). Nothing to add, just want to get replies in my inbox.

 On Sunday, March 23, 2014 5:32:39 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I’d love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially 
> with roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. 
> How 
> do they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque 
> when 
> climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with 
> weight 
> back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any 
> comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.
>
> My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on 
> the bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don’t feel as solid 
> as 
> I would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try a 
> new cockpit if I’m loosing something in the process.
>  
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>  
>  -- 
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>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: How do you post pictures to the list?

[Bill Lindsay]

I always post photos with a URL.  So, if I wanted to post a picture of Greg 
Lemond and Bernard Hinault finishing Alpe d'Huez hand in hand, I'd use the 
URL: 
 http://www.alancoleman.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/hinault-_and_lemond.jpg

When I use that URL to post a picture, it looks like this:



When I'm going to post pictures that I've taken myself, I publish them to 
flickr first and use the URL that they get on flickr.  I tend to pick 
smallish ones, so people that are looking at posts on a low bandwidth 
connection don't curse me for posting humungous photos.  I'm sure they 
curse me for plenty of other reasons.  

I don't know if that helps at all.  


On Monday, March 24, 2014 2:55:25 PM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> I can't do it with my phone and can't do it on the computer.  It says 
> something about too many pixels and orientation, and so on and do forth. 
>  I'm using an iPhone to take the pics.  Surely you all have better cameras 
> or similar and can do this.

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[RBW] How do you post pictures to the list?

[Aaron Young]

There are many different ways to do that.  One commonly used way on this
list is to use a service like Flicrk or Google's Picasa (right?) and then
copy/paste a link from one of those services.  If you aren't familiar with
those or other equivalent services, you might have to do some "homework"
and reading on those sites to get through the beginning of the learning
curve.

Personally, I started using Flickr because I saw many others here using it.
 I generally take photos with my iPhone and upload to Flickr via the iOS
Flickr app.  Then at home on my computer I organize, name, add detail, etc.
 Then I copy/paste a link to the album or set I want to share and send it
out via email.  My workflow is obviously not too sophisticated or novel,
but it is easy enough for me.

Others may have slicker/quicker methods which if not too OT I would love to
hear about.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR




On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 2:55 PM, Conway Bennett <
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I can't do it with my phone and can't do it on the computer.  It says
> something about too many pixels and orientation, and so on and do forth.
>  I'm using an iPhone to take the pics.  Surely you all have better cameras
> or similar and can do this.
>
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Re: [RBW] Saddlesack Medium and Biking to School

[justinaugust]

Hey if you ever want to sell your black one let me know!

-J

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Deacon Patrick]

Oh, I understand that about the triple. But I would prefer to get rid of 
the cross over. The riding I do is mostly in the 24, but then there are 
sections of flat and down where pedaling is needed at higher speeds. I'd 
prefer to simplify things. I spoke with Riv, and it's not too bad to shift 
things around to a 40-24 set up. I'm going to give that a go.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 24, 2014 4:07:00 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 03/24/2014 05:30 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
> > This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my 
> > triple, and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in 
> > the technical jargon though. Could you please explain things to a 
> > dummy (because you would be. Grin.)? I currently have the  Sugino XD2 
> > Crank, Triple 46x36x24. and would love to drop the 46 and have someone 
> > a bit larger than the 36 for my big ring, plus a real ring guard. 
>
> Using a 24/36/46 triple is simplicity itself.  For riding on level to 
> slighly uphill terrain, stay on the 46.  When you run out of gears and 
> need to downshift (i.e., when you are on the next to largest rear 
> sprocket and need something still lower) shift to the 36.  You may need 
> to simultaneously upshift one or perhaps 2 in back if the gear you get 
> is too low, or you could just wait a few seconds to let inertia have its 
> way. 
> About the only time you'll need to think about the 24 is on grades over 
> 10%.  At that point, go to the granny, and possibly if the gear is too 
> low upshift one or perhaps 2 in back to get to a proper gear.   There's 
> nothing at all complex about that. 
>
> Some notes on the 24:  use it with the 3 or at most 4 largest 
> sprockets.  Anything beyond that and you're overlapping with the range 
> of the 36 and unless you can see there's even steeper terrain looming 
> ahead (making it desirable to stay on the granny) shift to the 36 and 
> downshift as necessary in back to get to the proper gear.  You don't 
> want to ride on the 24 any more than you need to, because wear is much 
> greater on the smaller chain ring than on the larger. 
>
> Likewise, if you are on the 36 and you find you are in any of the 3 
> smallest sprockets in back, upshift to the 46 and downshift one or two 
> in back to get back to the right gear. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Steve Palincsar]

On 03/24/2014 05:30 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my 
triple, and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in 
the technical jargon though. Could you please explain things to a 
dummy (because you would be. Grin.)? I currently have the  Sugino XD2 
Crank, Triple 46x36x24. and would love to drop the 46 and have someone 
a bit larger than the 36 for my big ring, plus a real ring guard.


Using a 24/36/46 triple is simplicity itself.  For riding on level to 
slighly uphill terrain, stay on the 46.  When you run out of gears and 
need to downshift (i.e., when you are on the next to largest rear 
sprocket and need something still lower) shift to the 36.  You may need 
to simultaneously upshift one or perhaps 2 in back if the gear you get 
is too low, or you could just wait a few seconds to let inertia have its 
way.
About the only time you'll need to think about the 24 is on grades over 
10%.  At that point, go to the granny, and possibly if the gear is too 
low upshift one or perhaps 2 in back to get to a proper gear.   There's 
nothing at all complex about that.


Some notes on the 24:  use it with the 3 or at most 4 largest 
sprockets.  Anything beyond that and you're overlapping with the range 
of the 36 and unless you can see there's even steeper terrain looming 
ahead (making it desirable to stay on the granny) shift to the 36 and 
downshift as necessary in back to get to the proper gear.  You don't 
want to ride on the 24 any more than you need to, because wear is much 
greater on the smaller chain ring than on the larger.


Likewise, if you are on the 36 and you find you are in any of the 3 
smallest sprockets in back, upshift to the 46 and downshift one or two 
in back to get back to the right gear.


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[RBW] How do you post pictures to the list?

[Conway Bennett]

I can't do it with my phone and can't do it on the computer.  It says something 
about too many pixels and orientation, and so on and do forth.  I'm using an 
iPhone to take the pics.  Surely you all have better cameras or similar and can 
do this.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Tim Gavin]

Patrick:

Rivendell can help you with your cranky desires.   :)

Ring guard .

Chainrings in 40t , or in 43
and 45 .

If you change your triple to a double + ring guard, then you should tighten
the "H" screw on your front derailer to limit its range to the two chain
rings.

Cheers,
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA  USA


On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 4:30 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my
> triple, and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in the
> technical jargon though. Could you please explain things to a dummy
> (because you would be. Grin.)? I currently have the  Sugino XD2 Crank,
> Triple 46x36x24. and would love to drop the 46 and have someone a bit
> larger than the 36 for my big ring, plus a real ring guard.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Matthew J]

Most gears I have are 1x5.  Could not be happier.

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Deacon Patrick]

This intrigues me. I'm getting frustrated with the complexity of my triple, 
and essentially my big ring is my ring guard. I got lost in the technical 
jargon though. Could you please explain things to a dummy (because you 
would be. Grin.)? I currently have the  Sugino XD2 Crank, Triple 46x36x24. 
and would love to drop the 46 and have someone a bit larger than the 36 for 
my big ring, plus a real ring guard.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, February 24, 2014 4:38:55 PM UTC-7, HunqRider wrote:
>
> Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to a 
> simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last 
> year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.  
>
>  
>
> I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others 
> thinking about making the change.
>
>  
>
> My original drivetrain configuration was:
>
> Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)
>
> 113mm Bottom bracket
>
> Sugino XD2 crankset (double)
>
> 34 and 48 tooth chainrings
>
> 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)
>
>  
>
> To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take 
> off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness.  
> There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring bolts were too 
> long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones that were designed 
> for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem Solvers”; these ended 
> up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset 
> “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”.  
>
>  
>
> I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything 
> was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette 
> cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So 
> I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the 
> seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both 
> the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me.  I 
> believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 
> 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in 
> the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, 
> especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create 
> chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.
>
>  
>
> My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For 
> the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven’t ever had any issues with 
> the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of 
> mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don’t think that just 
> any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.  
> Here’s why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not 
> perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have 
> installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in 
> my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, 
> the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put 
> on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly 
> bigger than the chainring).  This bashguard is half the thickness of a 
> chainring.  I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit 
> further away from the chain.  This has worked great; no rubbing, and no 
> drops of the chain under any conditions so far.
>
>  
>
> Can you just leave the front derailler in place, instead of messing round 
> with these chain protectors?  Probably, but then you would have still have 
> to be ‘trimming’ the derailler using your left hand to prevent rubbing.  In 
> my setup, the left hand does nothing except braking now.
>
>  
>
> One other thing I did was take a few links out of the chain, since it 
> never leaves the 34t chainring (it used to have to be long enough to 
> accommodate the 48t chainring).
>
>  
>
> The experience has been fun, I don’t see myself returning to a 
> multi-chainring setup anytime soon. In my smallest gearing (34t chainring & 
> 32t cog), it is doable to climb most hills, and in my top gearing (12t 
> cog), it is fast enough for all the flats and moderate descents.  On steep 
> descents, I do find that it will “spin out”, but that usually just tells me 
> that I’m going fast enough for my own safety, no need to go faster by 
> pedaling.
>
>  
>
> I hope that this is helpful to anyone thinking about making the switch to 
> 1x this year.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bosco Bullmoose Bars

[Deacon Patrick]

I'm glad you mentioned the standard bullmoose, René. Thank you. My favorite 
position on the Albatross is the outer curve, but I have no brakes there, 
so I have to ride the handles on the downhills. It seems I could well end 
up with the same issue with the Bosco's. How are the standard bullmoose for 
long days in the saddle? (5-8 hours.)

With abandon,
Patrick 

On Monday, March 24, 2014 12:19:30 AM UTC-6, René wrote:
>
> After having several flavors of the Bosco bars and really liking them for 
> many reasons, I went back to the traditional Bullmoose bars on my 
> Hunqapillar, but raised them as high as feasible. I like this setup even 
> more. With the Boscos, my hands kept hurting and when riding rough terrain, 
> I would find myself having to grip the bars very tightly (I don't think the 
> reverse levers helped in this regard) to provent my hands from sliding 
> forward. This created some tendinitis and hand pain that took a long time 
> to go away.
>
> The higher standard Bullmoose bars take care of my neck and hand pain, and 
> I feel I have much better control of the bike now. 
>
> René 
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 9:21 PM, Peter Morgano 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> I have had albas regular Boscos and now the bull moose bars. They 
>> definitely give me more power and stiffness when climbing, a really solid 
>> feeling. 
>> On Mar 24, 2014 12:10 AM, "DS" > wrote:
>>
>>> I'm really interested in responses to this as well as I'm really on the 
>>> fence about which bars to use on my Hunq build (still a few months before 
>>> delivery). Nothing to add, just want to get replies in my inbox.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 5:32:39 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I’d love to hear from someone who rides a lot of trails, especially 
 with roots, rocks, snug tree gaps twists, and the like, how they ride. How 
 do they climb? How big a difference does the solidness make in torque when 
 climbing/maneuvering over/around obstacles and when descending with weight 
 back on the bars at the brakes? How are they for long mellow parts? Any 
 comparisons with the Albatross are appreciated as well.

 My sole issue with the Albatross is the feeling that when I pull on the 
 bars or absorb a bump with elbow bend that they don’t feel as solid as I 
 would like. I love every other aspect of them, so hate to save to try a 
 new 
 cockpit if I’m loosing something in the process.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
 *www.OurHolyConception.org *
  
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[blakcloud]

When I was at NAHBS SRAM was showing off their new 1 X 11 cyclocross group 
set. It looks very promising. Now if I could get a thumb shifter with this 
set up it might work really well for me. 


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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day - Lavendar Saluki!

[Tim Gavin]

Congrats on the lovely machine!  

I found a couple other lovely bikes in the purple spectrum.  Both lugged 
Paramounts, actually.
'86 Paramount in Neon 
Orchid


And this stunner, a '90 Paramount in "blue velvet 
gas", 
blue clearcoat over a purple base.  I want to see it in person!  It kinda 
resembles chromovelato.


Or if someone just wants a dash of purple, here's a 2004 Waterford frame 
with purple decals. 
 Only $200!  So tempted...

Just some bikes that came up on my radar, and caught my eye after seeing 
your lovely Saluki. 

Cheers,
Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA  USA

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Re: [RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Jim Bronson]

You can get BB spacers to adjust the chainline if you don't want to buy a
new BB.


On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 5:38 PM, HunqRider  wrote:

> Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to a
> simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring).  I did this last
> year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun.
>
>
>
> I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others
> thinking about making the change.
>
>
>
> My original drivetrain configuration was:
>
> Hunqapillar (54 cm frame)
>
> 113mm Bottom bracket
>
> Sugino XD2 crankset (double)
>
> 34 and 48 tooth chainrings
>
> 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth)
>
>
>
> To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take
> off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness.
> There was a problem though; the "nut" part of the chainring bolts were too
> long, so had to get some shorter ones.  My LBS sold ones that were designed
> for single speed cranks from a company named "Problem Solvers"; these ended
> up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset
> "bolts" with my new shorter "nuts".
>
>
>
> I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides.  Everything
> was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette
> cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside.  So
> I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper.  This device mounts onto the
> seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both
> the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only 'OK' for me.  I
> believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my
> 8-speed chain was a tight fit.  I had to play with it a lot to get it in
> the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain,
> especially when riding hard "out of the saddle" which would create
> chainring flex.  So I had to find a new solution.
>
>
>
> My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently.  For
> the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop.  I haven't ever had any issues with
> the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of
> mind.  For the outside, I installed a bashguard.  I don't think that just
> any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible.
> Here's why:  I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not
> perfectly centered on the cassette cogs.  Ideally, I probably should have
> installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in
> my setup, when "cross-chained" from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog,
> the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub.  So I put
> on a 'SuperLight' Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly
> bigger than the chainring).  This bashguard is half the thickness of a
> chainring.  I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit
> further away from the chain.  This has worked great; no rubbing, and no
> drops of the chain under any conditions so far.
>
>
>
> Can you just leave the front derailler in place, instead of messing round
> with these chain protectors?  Probably, but then you would have still have
> to be 'trimming' the derailler using your left hand to prevent rubbing.  In
> my setup, the left hand does nothing except braking now.
>
>
>
> One other thing I did was take a few links out of the chain, since it
> never leaves the 34t chainring (it used to have to be long enough to
> accommodate the 48t chainring).
>
>
>
> The experience has been fun, I don't see myself returning to a
> multi-chainring setup anytime soon. In my smallest gearing (34t chainring &
> 32t cog), it is doable to climb most hills, and in my top gearing (12t
> cog), it is fast enough for all the flats and moderate descents.  On steep
> descents, I do find that it will "spin out", but that usually just tells me
> that I'm going fast enough for my own safety, no need to go faster by
> pedaling.
>
>
>
> I hope that this is helpful to anyone thinking about making the switch to
> 1x this year.
>
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[RBW] Does anyone have the 1985 Bicycling Magazine Buyer's Guide?

[Chris Lampe 2]

Anyone have this issue and would you be willing to scan a few pages and 
e-mailing them to me? A few months ago I picked up an 80's Takara 
Highlander on Craiglist but I have been completely unsuccessful in finding 
any information on the bike. I just bought the 1985 Bicycling Magazine All 
Terrain Bikes issue thinking it was the buyer's guide but it's actually a 
history of mountain biking and a how-to guide. But, in this book they did 
mention that the 1985 Buyer's Guide has a review of the Takara Highlander! 
The brief description supports my suspicions that the bike has cro-mo main 
tubes but I would be very interested in reading the entire review (which 
also included three other MTB's).

Reading Grant's ideas on bicycles is what has led me to be curious about 
these early, slack-angled MTB's and I know that a lot of folks here have 
been into bikes for a long time so maybe I'll get lucky.  

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[RBW] Frozen, then sloppy, spring ramble

[Deacon Patrick]

It was below 20˚F when I started out, so the snow and ruts on the unimproved 
road was frozen solid. Freeze/thaw cycle in Spring makes backcountry riding 
extra adventurous.

I tested out the theory that riding faster over crusted snow means you don’t 
fall through. Worked great, until it didn’t. Crunch! Flip! Plop. Hysterical 
laughing for way too long. It’s great being a kid!

Made the reservoir after some mid-thigh snow pushing. The ice was singing from 
the heat change in the morning sun. Fantastic deep melodious tones, a lot like 
whale song. Mesmerizing.

Heading back things had warmed up to 40˚F and were fantastically sloppy, muddy, 
and grand. Had to dodge people out shooting as much as possible (seriously? on 
Monday morning in spring? Who does that? But they were likely asking the same 
thing of me). A fantastic way to spend 6 hours! Now to recover from the 
gunshots sounds and massive construction vehicles blowing air horns. It’s a 
risky world out there when you don’t have a fully functioning brain!

Here’s a few photos:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/sets/72157642864727485/

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Philip Williamson]

I was looking at these, too. Apparently the thick/thin chainrings are the 
new thing. I could go with a 1x9 for a bike... 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 4:52:31 PM UTC-7, Sine Wave wrote:
>
> Check out the Wolf Tooth chainrings; they're designed specifically to work 
> with 1xX drive trains and supposedly obviate the need for any sort of chain 
> keeper. I haven't used one but I am planning on on getting one. And they 
> make them for 110bcd cranks. Also, the shimano shadow plus RD would be 
> worth looking into. You would have to go with a 10 speed setup for that 
> though I think. But you would gain more ratios for the bottom and top end. 

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[RBW] Re: A Sam Hillborne (ridden by Steve) an Atlantis (ridden by Chris) and an A. Homer Hilsen (ridden) by me meet on a brevet.

[Deacon Patrick]

Graduated high school in 89, so close. Did a fantastic ride for 4 hours. 
Legs were fine. It's my hands that are saying huh? Sore in the grip area. 
They'll toughen up.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 24, 2014 1:34:08 PM UTC-6, Iron Rider wrote:
>
> Thanks Partick. 
>
> It sounds like you were a freshman when I was a senior (Class of 84). Take 
> those winter legs out for a spin. They'll thank you later!  
>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: need club name

[Chris Chen]

or the Whatcom Wheelie Wamblers


On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 9:57 AM, Chris Chen  wrote:

> Skagit Socialist Syclist Syndicate, Seriously
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 8:38 AM, Clayton  wrote:
>
>> Meandonneurs... Fantastic word. I also really like mountonneurs. Nice
>> job, Mr. Wordsmith. I wonder how many embroidered patches and pins could be
>> sold... H.
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:44:01 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> I love the socialist pun but well understand why you'd keep looking. I
>>> wouldn't joint a group with that name because of all the inherent harm to
>>> humanity socialism causes.
>>>
>>> Bell n' Ham Grinders (A bell shaped like your local mountain getting rug
>>> by a pig).
>>> Garvelly Gravel Grinders
>>>
>>> I don't know if such a wandering randonneur word exists, but what about:
>>> Meandonneurs
>>> Wandonneurs
>>> Vagabonneurs
>>> Mountonneurs
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 22, 2014 9:08:29 PM UTC-6, bo richardson wrote:

 three or four of us, so far, ride together on weekends
 we go from bellingham to edison for lunch and then up
 colony mountain and sometimes garvelly road and around
 lake samish and back to bellingham
  45 lovely miles


 we are sort of a club and need a name

 we are social and not competetive

 colony mt is so called because there was a utopian community
 there in the early twentieth century
 supported by socialist labor unions and such

 our best name so far is
 colony mtn socialists

 or gravelly road grinders

 we are not randonneurs
 we are pass hunters because we have to go up the hill
 to get home, otherwise flat is nice

 is there a french or german bicyclist category which
 would describe pleasure riders who couldnt compete
 and dont

 Radler?

 self deprecating but not self loathing is the proper tone here

 FWIW we have a 68cm atlantis
 a 54 rambouillet
 a 54 miyata 1000
 and a 53.5atlantis so we are motley as well as
 involuntarily uncompetetive

 thanks

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>
>
>
> --
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>



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[RBW] Re: A Sam Hillborne (ridden by Steve) an Atlantis (ridden by Chris) and an A. Homer Hilsen (ridden) by me meet on a brevet.

[Iron Rider]

Thanks Partick. 

It sounds like you were a freshman when I was a senior (Class of 84). Take 
those winter legs out for a spin. They'll thank you later!  

>
>

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[RBW] Re: A Sam Hillborne (ridden by Steve) an Atlantis (ridden by Chris) and an A. Homer Hilsen (ridden) by me meet on a brevet.

[Iron Rider]

Thanks DP. 

Sounds like you were a freshman when I was a senior (Class of 84). Take 
those winter legs out for a spin. They'll thank you later!  

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:55:41 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thank for guiding me back on track, Tony. Grin.
>
> Great report! Thanks. I love reading your long road rides. Reminds me of 
> my days when passing cars didn't end my day (overstimulation my brain) and 
> I would ride 30 miles as a "cool down" following a century. This was 88-92 
> timeframe, end of high school, early college.
>
> I am hoping I am doing well enough to try a longer day ride tomorrow or 
> Tuesday on highly unimproved road and trail that will likely be snow and 
> ice and no doubt my winter legs will say "Hello!" Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 6:43:16 PM UTC-6, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>>
>> Nice report and looks like a great day. I can definitely identify with 
>> the 'winter legs' idea though it's impacting me in the ~30 mile distances 
>> not the 200K! :)
>>
>> The link is pasted twice, this should work;
>>
>> http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/03/pennsylvania-blue-mountain-200k-riding.html#more
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: A Sam Hillborne (ridden by Steve) an Atlantis (ridden by Chris) and an A. Homer Hilsen (ridden) by me meet on a brevet.

[Iron Rider]

The corrected link : 
http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/03/pennsylvania-blue-mountain-200k-riding.htm

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[RBW] Re: A Sam Hillborne (ridden by Steve) an Atlantis (ridden by Chris) and an A. Homer Hilsen (ridden) by me meet on a brevet.

[Iron Rider]

> And this is the correct link for the ride report:
>
>
> http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/03/pennsylvania-blue-mountain-200k-riding.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddlesack Medium and Biking to School

[Leslie]

Ya know

My kids' nickname for me is "Khaki-Man".  I started w/ Acorn bags, because 
the Sackville stuff was in olive instead of tan.

If I was buying today, I'd probably be buying the Sackvilles in tan 
instead.  Nothin' at all wrong w/ Acorn, don't get me wrong, I love 'em, no 
need to replace them; but I am pro-RBW, and would've probably gotten 
theirs, if they were tan at the time...   



On Saturday, March 22, 2014 1:40:01 AM UTC-4, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> Well, I don't know what came over me just now. I found myself pecking out 
> my credit card info on Riv's site for a new Saddlesack Medium in tan. I 
> don't even know how I settled on tan. Wait, yes I do - I flipped through 
> the Group's photo pool and noted that the bikes similar in paint to my 
> Betty Foy looked bright and lively with the tan; I felt the olive color 
> looked heavy and separate from the bike - like it would not complement my 
> bike but rather compete for its own attention. (Though on the orange or 
> green bikes olive really was spectacular.) Probably nobody else even 
> understands what I'm prattling on about, which is why I took the precaution 
> of writing to Riv in the notes: "I chose the tan because it brightened 
> bikes similar in color to my Betty Foy and looked lively. If you disagree 
> and think olive is better, please call me and get me to come to my senses." 
>
> Well, it's done. I have no great need for such a bag on my short commutes 
> to my sons' school, but I am a shameless bag hound of the worst kind. And 
> there you have it. 
>
> That brings me to school biking. I've mentioned before on here about the 
> traffic snarl at the school. It truly brings out the worst in people - even 
> me! Routinely, people park and block access to the sidewalk (yes, it's 
> legal to for bikes to ride on them here, and with 2 kids - 1 who is on a 
> tiny 16 inch wheel bike - I certainly use them) by parking across the 
> sidewalk. I've started leaving notes on cars, knocking on windows, calling 
> traffic enforcement. Some poor child will get hit after being forced off 
> the sidewalk into the busy street; it really is a matter of time. It's been 
> very frustrating but then today happened: I was stopped by a MOM on a BIKE! 
> This is a brand new thing! She lives a few houses away from me and decided 
> she was going to bike commute with her child (who is still on training 
> wheels). She was riding a Lemond road bike with drop bars and none of the 
> Rivish accoutrements. She was admiring things on my bike (mostly my dog) 
> but maybe I can send Grant some new business. If not, he'll just have to be 
> happy with my reckless order from tonight. ;)

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[RBW] Re: Evolution of your bike preference?

[RJM]

Well, I think when I was young I had a bike with a banana seat and ape 
hangers and it was called The Good Buddy or something. Broke that frame 
after a year or so. 
 
When in grade school I had some no name 10 speed. It was black and I rode 
that everywhere. Broke that frame ghost riding it off a hill.
 
When in college I got into mountain biking and bought some sort of steel 
Fuji. Rode that for a year, broke that frame crashing into a tree.
 
Then in 1996 I saved up my money and I bought a 1996 Stumpjumper, installed 
a Judy XC fork and some light saddle and rode that for a long time. Still 
have that bike but it is in parts. 
 
In 2001 I went back to school and bought a Jamis Aurora. I used that for 
commuting and did a little touring on it. Had that bike when I got hitched, 
rode sparingly because ...life got in the way. 
 
I bought a Trek 7.5fx in 2008 or 09, can't really remember. I rode that 
bike with my wife, solo, friends all over the place. Really a good bike.
 
Started reading about Rivendell, my friend had a A. Homer Hilsen and I 
thought it was awesome, so I started saving up the pennies again but I 
built the Jamis up to be Riv like with mustache bars, B17, friction 
shifters. Eventually I bought an orange/Canti 48cm Sam Hillborne on some 
member only sale that Riv had and have ridden that bike a ton. Built it 
with noodles, bar end shifters, 7 speed Phil "Rivy" - Dyad wheels,  I used 
it for club riding, rails to trails, commuting, slow rides with the wife, 
long s24os...everything. Then I noticed I would really like a club riding 
bike, built light and agile, so I can continue with the club but also have 
a bike that does touring and commuting well. I bought a Roadeo, got it 
painted Ram orange, built it up with Ultegra 6800 and some lighter weight 
wheels. The Sam is morphing into a more upright bike, permanently racked 
and bagged...thinking of some dyno lights too and maybe boscoe or alba 
bars. 
 
If I was going to buy another bike, I would think about a Hunqapillar or a 
Cheviot built up as a mountain bike. 

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Re: [RBW] FS: Rivendell SaddleSack medium olive

[Mike Williams]

I'll take it!!!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2014, at 1:42 PM, Brad Mitchell  wrote:
> 
> I have too many bags, and am trying to cut back. I have a really nice medium 
> size SaddleSack if anyone is interested..figured I'd post here first before 
> trying eBay. Has some of the usual scuff marks, otherwise no rips, tears, 
> etc. All zippers and buttons work perfectly. Really nice shape. Would like 
> $150, which would include shipping to the lower 48. 
> 
> I also have a vintage Schwinn NOS saddlebag support (basically the same 
> design as the old Rivendell Silver Hupe) that also works well with this bag. 
> Can throw that in for an extra $30.
> 
> Please let me know off-list if interested (frit...@gmail.com). Thanks!
> 
> brad
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> <01.jpg>
> <02.jpg>
> <03.jpg>
> <04.jpg>

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[RBW] Re: Nanoreview, Barlow Pass 700x38C on Dyad

[Ty Graham]

I jammed the 700x38 EL Compass Barlow Pass on a Rambouillet just as an 
experiment.  Didn't even ride it since my QR interfered with my buddy's 
fender set up.

They rubbed his fender, but should be ridable with no fenders.  We had to 
deflate to get through the silver brakes.

Here's a picture of our quick 
hack. https://www.flickr.com/photos/13233995@N08/13180514203/

Sorry I don't have better data, but I figure since no one else has tried 
anything ...

Awesome tire BTW.  I have about 35 miles on them and love them.  37mm wide 
on my Dyads.

Ty Graham
Seattle


On Thursday, March 20, 2014 12:28:46 PM UTC-7, allenmichael wrote:
>
> So they might fit on a Rambouillet without fenders? Still not anyone who 
> has tried it?
>
> Michael Allen
>
> On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 6:01:06 PM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
>>
>> Measures out to 34mm right now, but that might change.
>>
>> I'm gonna go out for a ride.
>>
>> -- 
>> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Saddlesack Medium and Biking to School

[BenG]

I bought one from the first batch- it's a black one, metal tag says serial no. 
SSM-0009 - and even though it's just right for commuting, the urge keeps rising 
to buy a tan in Large. It would really look nice on my pewter Sam. From my 
experience, you did good.

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[RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains

[Sine Wave]

Check out the Wolf Tooth chainrings; they're designed specifically to work with 
1xX drive trains and supposedly obviate the need for any sort of chain keeper. 
I haven't used one but I am planning on on getting one. And they make them for 
110bcd cranks. Also, the shimano shadow plus RD would be worth looking into. 
You would have to go with a 10 speed setup for that though I think. But you 
would gain more ratios for the bottom and top end. 

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[RBW] Re: Can a Sachs Duopar Be Used with Vertical Dropouts?

[Mark Guglielmana]

Long story short, I don't think so.

A bolt on derailleur hanger won't work. The hanger is designed with a tang 
that slips into a horizontal dropout so it won't rotate. With a vertical 
dropout, there's no room for the bolt on hanger. Even if there were, it 
would be at the wrong angle. Here's a 
picture: http://sheldonbrown.com/images/adaptorclaw.gif

If it's designed to bolt directly to a hanger, note that the derailleur 
"stop" is in a different location for older Huret models. J.P. Weigle has a 
good post on this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/49353569@N00/12748009134/
You would have to modify the stop by removing material (reverse of the JPW 
method). I'm guessing that you have a bike with vertical dropouts that was 
made for the Campy/SunTour/Shimano style derailleurs?

Peter Weigle is an expert on old Duopars, you might contact him for 
verification.


On Monday, March 24, 2014 9:21:13 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Does anybody have experience using a Sachs Duopar on a frame with vertical 
> dropouts? It appears to be designed to be used with a bolt-on hanger that 
> would work only with horizontal drops: 
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ofjwcrr 
>
> --Eric N 
> campyo...@me.com  
> Web: www.campyonly.com 
> Twitter: @campyonlyguy 
> Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen v3

[Coconutbill]

>
> While I'm a big fan of my Albatross it's only a matter of time before I 
> try the Albastache.

Your bike tinkerings always inspire me! 

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

[Patrick Shea]

Hi Tony:

These are single speed, 1/8" (pretty sure), silver. I can look at their
website and find out the model. No hurry on this. I would prefer to sell as
I am trying to get my stuff down to the essentials.

Cheers,
Patrick


On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 3:53 AM, Tony DeFilippo  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> Are you interested in a trade or a straight sale?  I need to unload some
> of my FS/T items before I pick up any new cranks right now.  Just in case,
> is your crank an ENO and are the rings SS or from their VBC line?  Thanks!
>
> Tony
>
>
> I have a WI crankset two 44-tooth rings, one silver, one black. Make offer?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Patrick
>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MId-Weekend Update: SoCal Riders March Meander

[Chris Chen]

Sounds epic. Thanks gents.

cc


On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 9:38 AM, Coconutbill  wrote:

> Spring Break free'd up my schedule, and seemingly did the same for all the
>> college kids hoping to camp in Joshua Tree. All campsites were full.Doh!
>>
> Hugh, Homer, MB-1, and me, took a motel in the desert, deciding that the
> BLM option was kind of bleak. after a good night rest we drove to Redlands,
> got connected with Smitty and David, and Arlo, ate some burritos and stuff,
> and rode up to Angeles Oaks. Drivetrain issues and tire rubbing seemed to
> appear out of the blue, but fortunately it was an unracing brigade and with
> a little wrenching we got things back on track... the type of thing that
> makes you closer to your bike, and thankful to have patient comrades.
>
> Here's a few of my pictures:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/coconutbill/sets/72157642853953905/
>
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Re: [RBW] Hilsen v3

[Chris Chen]

It's the Ur-Edelux on a B&M wire mount, purchased on clearance from Compass
Cycles, Ltd.

Loving the Albastaches so far.

Brencho, I found myself hanging out at the curves at the front of the
albatross bars often enough to notice now the curve in doesn't feel too
good after a few miles. The albastaches feel super secure in the crook.

cc


On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 9:59 PM, Bruce Smitham  wrote:

> Your set up looks really nice. I have a similar set up on my new Sam
> Hillborne but a medium basket. I currently have noodles (I'm liking them
> the more I ride on them) but just purchased Albastache to try them out. I
> was curious if that light is a Supernova and if so how you like it? Im
> debating between it and the Luxos at Riv.
>
> Cheers,
> Bruce in San Diego
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: need club name

[Chris Chen]

Skagit Socialist Syclist Syndicate, Seriously


On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 8:38 AM, Clayton  wrote:

> Meandonneurs... Fantastic word. I also really like mountonneurs. Nice job,
> Mr. Wordsmith. I wonder how many embroidered patches and pins could be
> sold... H.
>
>
> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:44:01 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I love the socialist pun but well understand why you'd keep looking. I
>> wouldn't joint a group with that name because of all the inherent harm to
>> humanity socialism causes.
>>
>> Bell n' Ham Grinders (A bell shaped like your local mountain getting rug
>> by a pig).
>> Garvelly Gravel Grinders
>>
>> I don't know if such a wandering randonneur word exists, but what about:
>> Meandonneurs
>> Wandonneurs
>> Vagabonneurs
>> Mountonneurs
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Saturday, March 22, 2014 9:08:29 PM UTC-6, bo richardson wrote:
>>>
>>> three or four of us, so far, ride together on weekends
>>> we go from bellingham to edison for lunch and then up
>>> colony mountain and sometimes garvelly road and around
>>> lake samish and back to bellingham
>>>  45 lovely miles
>>>
>>>
>>> we are sort of a club and need a name
>>>
>>> we are social and not competetive
>>>
>>> colony mt is so called because there was a utopian community
>>> there in the early twentieth century
>>> supported by socialist labor unions and such
>>>
>>> our best name so far is
>>> colony mtn socialists
>>>
>>> or gravelly road grinders
>>>
>>> we are not randonneurs
>>> we are pass hunters because we have to go up the hill
>>> to get home, otherwise flat is nice
>>>
>>> is there a french or german bicyclist category which
>>> would describe pleasure riders who couldnt compete
>>> and dont
>>>
>>> Radler?
>>>
>>> self deprecating but not self loathing is the proper tone here
>>>
>>> FWIW we have a 68cm atlantis
>>> a 54 rambouillet
>>> a 54 miyata 1000
>>> and a 53.5atlantis so we are motley as well as
>>> involuntarily uncompetetive
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>  --
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[RBW] Re: MId-Weekend Update: SoCal Riders March Meander

[Coconutbill]

>
> Spring Break free'd up my schedule, and seemingly did the same for all the 
> college kids hoping to camp in Joshua Tree. All campsites were full.Doh!
>
Hugh, Homer, MB-1, and me, took a motel in the desert, deciding that the 
BLM option was kind of bleak. after a good night rest we drove to Redlands, 
got connected with Smitty and David, and Arlo, ate some burritos and stuff, 
and rode up to Angeles Oaks. Drivetrain issues and tire rubbing seemed to 
appear out of the blue, but fortunately it was an unracing brigade and with 
a little wrenching we got things back on track... the type of thing that 
makes you closer to your bike, and thankful to have patient comrades.  

Here's a few of my pictures: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/coconutbill/sets/72157642853953905/

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[RBW] Can a Sachs Duopar Be Used with Vertical Dropouts?

[Eric Norris]

Does anybody have experience using a Sachs Duopar on a frame with vertical 
dropouts? It appears to be designed to be used with a bolt-on hanger that would 
work only with horizontal drops:

http://tinyurl.com/ofjwcrr 

--Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
Web: www.campyonly.com 
Twitter: @campyonlyguy
Blog: campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: need club name

[Clayton]

Meandonneurs... Fantastic word. I also really like mountonneurs. Nice job, 
Mr. Wordsmith. I wonder how many embroidered patches and pins could be 
sold... H.


On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:44:01 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I love the socialist pun but well understand why you'd keep looking. I 
> wouldn't joint a group with that name because of all the inherent harm to 
> humanity socialism causes.
>
> Bell n' Ham Grinders (A bell shaped like your local mountain getting rug 
> by a pig).
> Garvelly Gravel Grinders
>
> I don't know if such a wandering randonneur word exists, but what about:
> Meandonneurs
> Wandonneurs
> Vagabonneurs
> Mountonneurs
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Saturday, March 22, 2014 9:08:29 PM UTC-6, bo richardson wrote:
>>
>> three or four of us, so far, ride together on weekends
>> we go from bellingham to edison for lunch and then up 
>> colony mountain and sometimes garvelly road and around
>> lake samish and back to bellingham
>>  45 lovely miles
>>  
>>  
>> we are sort of a club and need a name
>>  
>> we are social and not competetive
>>  
>> colony mt is so called because there was a utopian community 
>> there in the early twentieth century
>> supported by socialist labor unions and such
>>  
>> our best name so far is 
>> colony mtn socialists
>>  
>> or gravelly road grinders
>>  
>> we are not randonneurs
>> we are pass hunters because we have to go up the hill
>> to get home, otherwise flat is nice
>>  
>> is there a french or german bicyclist category which
>> would describe pleasure riders who couldnt compete 
>> and dont
>>  
>> Radler?
>>  
>> self deprecating but not self loathing is the proper tone here
>>  
>> FWIW we have a 68cm atlantis
>> a 54 rambouillet
>> a 54 miyata 1000 
>> and a 53.5atlantis so we are motley as well as 
>> involuntarily uncompetetive
>>  
>> thanks
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant on tires

[Steven Frederick]

I don't think it does but folding tires generally have higher end
compounds, sidewalls, etc, so they roll faster for that reason not the
folding bead...


On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 10:49 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I still don't get how the bead affects the ride quality, whether for
> comfort or speed. Can anyone explain? From Jan's testing it would seem that
> the principal variable by an order of magnitude is casing construction.
>
> But I'd like to know if it does, 'cuz if it does, I need to swap out the
> wire bead Kojaks on the '03 for folding ones.
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 6:52 PM, RJM  wrote:
>
>>  I can't stand wire beads...much prefer a folding bead.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Just installed the Stampede Pass onto my Roadeo, first ride on Sunday.
>> The look much better than the 25mm Continental tires I had on it.
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Recommended Coffee Grinder

[Matthew J]

Sure.  Been thinking about filing a report but with my second grader 
attention span every time I come here I get distracted.

First, this is definitely not a travel grinder.  Rather it is a handsome, 
heavy duty professional grade grinder that just happens to eschew the power 
grid in favor of a little elbow grease.  

Lido arrived assembled and ready to use.  Quality is very high.  The 
brushed stainless steel and glass components look very good.  The look fits 
right in with my modern kitchen.  If you have a more traditional kitchen 
you may want to keep it in a cabinet when not in use.  

The grinder burs are steel and easily the size of what you find in most 
heavy duty home electric burr grinders.  The first few times I used it 
spinning the handle was a little difficult.  This is consistent with the 
manual which says the steel burs require a break in period before optimal 
grinding ease.  Three weeks in grinding is much more smooth.  I expect it 
will get even easier as I continue to use.  A big plus with the larger size 
than Hario and similar grinders is you have to twist it less.

Lido has infinite settings from very fine to coarse.  Changing setting is 
easy.  There are two stainless steel rings.  A large one that adjusts the 
burs and a smaller lock ring.  First grind I set it at the OE recommended 
setting for pour over.  This turned out to be somewhat too coarse for the 
beans I use anyway.  I made some micro adjustments the next few grinds 
until I had it just right.  Saturday I bought some different beans (new 
Brasil harvest is showing up at local stores) that required some 
adjustments.  Making the micro adjustments is easy.

One thing I might want to change is the glass grind catch jar.  With 
winter's low humidity hanging around there is a lot of static.  The ground 
coffee clings to the side of the jar something fierce.  The glass is thick. 
 Still, I fear I will manage to break it.  It would be nice to have a 
stainless jar, although the look would be a little less clean.

I fully expect the Lido will outlive me.  It is meant for the coffee nut. 
 If you are one of us, highly recommended.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:46:41 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Matthew,
>
> Would you mind sharing a report of your experience with the Lido 2 so far? 
> My wife is thinking it makes sense as our home grinder, in large part 
> because the reports I've read say it is much smoother and easier to 
> operate, and less fiddly than the Hario et al. (though at 3 pounds and 12" 
> tall x 3" wide I won't be taking it on the bike -- I'm thinking the Hario 
> mini with rubber bands so it fits directly into an Aeropress for that).
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, March 6, 2014 7:51:38 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:
>>
>> A good electric grinder will easily cost several hundred dollars. 
>>  Commercial grinders go neat $1k if not over.
>>
>> I much prefer a manual as personally I would rather not use electricity 
>> if there is a feasible alternative.  The problem with many of the less 
>> expensive manual grinders is they either cannot adjust or if they do it is 
>> more rube goldberg than what you get with a good electric.  Adjusting the 
>> level of grind is important if you brew coffee in different ways as well as 
>> experiment with the type of beans and roast.
>>
>> The Lido in concept will have the same precise grind control one gets 
>> from the high end grinders without using electricity.  I just wish the darn 
>> things would come in stock so I can try one out.
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 5, 2014 9:42:48 PM UTC-6, David Banzer wrote:
>>>
>>> For folks that like lighter roast coffees, a blade grinder just simply 
>>> doesn't provide anywhere near a consistent grind. Will a blade grinder work 
>>> to make a cup of coffee? Absolutely. Some folks, myself included, will tell 
>>> you that's better cup of coffee can be made with a consistent grind that a 
>>> burr grinder provides. 
>>> Manual, hand-powered grinders also mean you can grind beans anywhere 
>>> you'd like, which is wonderful for making coffee outside, which a lot of 
>>> folks seem to be interested in these days when combined with bicycle 
>>> journeys of any length. 
>>> David
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pre-Spring Cleaning

[Corwin]

Pictures are 
here
.

Thanks,


Corwin

On Monday, March 24, 2014 7:55:17 AM UTC-7, Corwin wrote:
>
> Since these were the stock wheels on my Quickbeam, the front is spaced at 
> 100mm. Rear is spaced at 120mm.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Corwin
>
> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:17:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>>
>> Wheels are 120?
>> On Mar 23, 2014 9:21 PM, "Corwin"  wrote:
>>
>>> Price drop.
>>>
>>> Now asking $175 shipped for wheelset.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>
>>> Corwin
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 2:35:48 PM UTC-7, Corwin wrote:

 Latest list with still lower prices:

 Stock wheelset from Quickbeam

 These are the original wheels that came with my Quickbeam. Suzue 
 quick-release
 hubs, 32 spokes. The rims are Araya with ferrules. Rear is threaded for 
 freewheel 
 on both sides. I have ridden fixed with these wheels using a fixed cog 
 and no 
 lockring - but you can't backpedal. Tires in the pictures are sold.

 Now asking $200 shipped.

 Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem

 Nearly new. Mounted, ridden 20 miles.

 Asking $30 shipped.

 Shimano 18 tooth Singlespeed Freewheel

 The original freewheel sold with the Quickbeam. Ridden less than 50 
 miles.

 Asking $10 shipped, Free local pick-up

 Delta Seat Post Rack.

 A great rack I have used on several bikes. I have safely carried a 
 laptop in
 it's original box, strapped to this rack. I am sure it will handle 10 
 or so
 pounds. I would not ask this rack to carry groceries - but for small, 
 lightish
 loads, it's great.

 Now asking $10 shipped, Free local pick-up

 Velocity 700C Fusion Rim

 Originally laced to a Chris King Classic Cross hub on my custom. Always 
 ran
 straight and true. Same hub is now laced to an offset A23 rim.

 Free, local pick-up.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pre-Spring Cleaning

[Corwin]

Since these were the stock wheels on my Quickbeam, the front is spaced at 
100mm. Rear is spaced at 120mm.

Thanks,


Corwin

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:17:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
> Wheels are 120?
> On Mar 23, 2014 9:21 PM, "Corwin" > wrote:
>
>> Price drop.
>>
>> Now asking $175 shipped for wheelset.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Corwin
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 2:35:48 PM UTC-7, Corwin wrote:
>>>
>>> Latest list with still lower prices:
>>>
>>> Stock wheelset from Quickbeam
>>>
>>> These are the original wheels that came with my Quickbeam. Suzue 
>>> quick-release
>>> hubs, 32 spokes. The rims are Araya with ferrules. Rear is threaded for 
>>> freewheel 
>>> on both sides. I have ridden fixed with these wheels using a fixed cog 
>>> and no 
>>> lockring - but you can't backpedal. Tires in the pictures are sold.
>>>
>>> Now asking $200 shipped.
>>>
>>> Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem
>>>
>>> Nearly new. Mounted, ridden 20 miles.
>>>
>>> Asking $30 shipped.
>>>
>>> Shimano 18 tooth Singlespeed Freewheel
>>>
>>> The original freewheel sold with the Quickbeam. Ridden less than 50 
>>> miles.
>>>
>>> Asking $10 shipped, Free local pick-up
>>>
>>> Delta Seat Post Rack.
>>>
>>> A great rack I have used on several bikes. I have safely carried a 
>>> laptop in
>>> it's original box, strapped to this rack. I am sure it will handle 10 or 
>>> so
>>> pounds. I would not ask this rack to carry groceries - but for small, 
>>> lightish
>>> loads, it's great.
>>>
>>> Now asking $10 shipped, Free local pick-up
>>>
>>> Velocity 700C Fusion Rim
>>>
>>> Originally laced to a Chris King Classic Cross hub on my custom. Always 
>>> ran
>>> straight and true. Same hub is now laced to an offset A23 rim.
>>>
>>> Free, local pick-up.
>>>
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[RBW] WTB: 54cm Specialized Sequoia frameset

[Kieran J]

Hi Everyone, 

I am looking for an 80's 54cm Specialized Sequoia frameset. Must be rust 
and dent free, but flexible on cosmetics.
I have an '83 56cm Sequoia f/f/hs I can trade, if applicable.

Thanks,

Kieran
Toronto, Canada
 
(cross-posted from the iBOB list - sorry for the dooply)

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[RBW] Round the Mountain 3-22-14

[Eric Norris]

Monsieur Bleriot and I went for a ride on Saturday:

http://youtu.be/Y8prY02czdw


Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

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[RBW] Re: A Sam Hillborne (ridden by Steve) an Atlantis (ridden by Chris) and an A. Homer Hilsen (ridden) by me meet on a brevet.

[Iron Rider]

Thanks for the fix Tony.

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Re: [RBW] need club name

[bo richardson]

my first idea was Colony Mountain Social Climbers 
but that was a bit too self deprecating or ironic or something

contemplatif or sportif might work
both dick and i have done Ski to Sea
which might make us competative enough for sportif
although dick did the running leg, not cycling

anne is clearly contemplatif

Dick DeWaard owns the 68 cm Atlantis

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

[Tony DeFilippo]

Patrick, 

Are you interested in a trade or a straight sale?  I need to unload some of 
my FS/T items before I pick up any new cranks right now.  Just in case, is 
your crank an ENO and are the rings SS or from their VBC line?  Thanks!

Tony


I have a WI crankset two 44-tooth rings, one silver, one black. Make offer?
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>
>>
>>  

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[RBW] Re: Evolution of your bike preference?

[Chris Lampe 2]

I've cabled up one bike and it was such a tedious and frustrating event 
that I now just take it to an LBS and let them do it.  Hopefully I'll get 
the bike back today or tomorrow.  


On Sunday, March 23, 2014 10:05:20 PM UTC-5, jpp wrote:
>
> Hopefully someday your tastes evolve into putting shifter/brake cables and 
> a chain on a bike, but to each their own!!!  Only kidding
>
> On Sunday, March 23, 2014 9:55:09 PM UTC-4, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>>
>> My bike preferences continue to evolove and I've recently been riding and 
>> 83-84 MTB, one of those bikes with 48cm chainstays and a wheelbase of 
>> 1120mm.   HUGE bike and I'm really enjoying it!!  I liked the short 
>> chainstays of the Troll and Karate Monkey but I also like the long stays of 
>> this old MTB.  Riding this bike has really reignited my interest in the 
>> Bombadil and the Hunqapillar so I'm looking forward to hearing more about 
>> this "proto-hunq" that was unveiled yesterday. 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen v3

[Brencho]

nice work chris! dig the tires and albastache. i'd love to hear your 
impressions of them (particularly the stache). i find on my albatross i've 
been sliding my hands forward a bit toward the hooks. 



On Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:14:08 PM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:
>
> I switched from Noodles to Albatrosses a few months ago, but I never 
> really got used to how upright the bars were; I moved the stem as low as it 
> would go and it got better but I wondered if there was a better, "middle" 
> way.
>
> So here's the third iteration of the Hilsen cockpit, etc:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/13330341535/
>
> I've gone for the huge basket too, and upgraded from the 32R to 33R so I 
> could move the fenders up for the Clement MSOs.
>
> With a nod to adventure, I think I'll call it my GTFO Bike.
>
> cc
>
> -- 
> "I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah 
>

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[RBW] Re: R400 road Brake lever gray plastic ring cracked. Ok to ride?

[IanA]

What Phillip said - purely cosmetic.  I have a set of the Ultegra/600 
levers and one of those is missing the plastic bit, after a fall.  Been 
like that for years now.

On Sunday, March 23, 2014 9:00:34 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info. Here is a pic. seems to be working fine.
>>
> I'd hate to have to undo the whole cockpit and go through realighning the 
> levers again. Hopefully it will wtill work fine from now on. 
>

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Re: [RBW] FS/WTT - Chris King, 10 Speed STI, WI Eno, Nitto, Tires

[Patrick Shea]

I have a WI crankset two 44-tooth rings, one silver, one black. Make offer?

Cheers,
Patrick

On Sunday, March 23, 2014, Tony DeFilippo  wrote:

> Available for Sale/Trade (trade preferred, offers welcome, shipping not
> included in prices below):
>
> PICTURES 
> HERE
>
> -$250 Shimano 105 10 speed group; 2x10 STI shifters (5600 series), front
> and rear derailleur, 10 speed chain, tiagra 12-30t cassette
>
> -$125 Chris King Classic Front Wheel, 32 hole, 26" Rim, rim brake (silver,
> the hub weighs in at 112grams... if you're into that sort of thing, I'm
> happy to cut this out of its rim to keep shipping down if you are going to
> do the same anyway, same price)
>
> -$150 WI ENO eccentric wheel, 32 hole, 26" Rim, rim brake (black)
>
> -$65 WI 17T FW
>
> -$10 Surly 20T Fixed Cog
>
> -$100 Nitto Noodle 44cm Cockpit, including: Shimano aero Levers and Tektro
> cross levers
>
> -$40 Nitto 7cm Stem
>
> -$10 each (3 avail) Col de la vie tires, used but plenty of life (650Bx32)
>
> -$55 pair Nifty Swifty Rainbows (650Bx33mm, nearly new) - For full price
> I'll include the Riv Reader where Grant announces he got a patent for the
> colored sidewalls! :)
>
> -$35 pair Nifty Swifty Rainbows (650Bx33mm, ~3,500 miles, rear one shows
> pretty smooth center but definitely rideable)
>
> -$15 one GEAX AKA 26"x2.2", lots of small knobs, neat looking, plenty of
> life left, looks almost new
>
> -$39 pair Continental Gravity 26"x2.3", looks like a decent aggressive
> knobby, plenty of life left
>
>
>
> Things I don't have up for sale (so don't ask) but am interested in as
> trade targets;
>
>
> -Brooks flyer
> -Brooks b17
> -WI crank - 170 or 175cm
> -Paul or Bruce Gordon canti brakes
> -Paul brake levers
> -silver bar end shifters
> -thin gripster pedals
>
> -WI pedals
>
> -Nitto Albatross bars
>
> -Nitto Bosco bars
> -Retroshift levers/shifters
>
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