Re: [RBW] Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
On Feb 21, 2015, at 3:52 PM, 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote: I agree with Steve about being rigorous with the PT, Cecily. Ditto. I crashed and broke my elbow on 8/30/13, which had to be surgically put back together. I was scrupulous about doing my rehab therapy with the result of having regained 100% of my pre-fracture range of motion and no loss of strength. There were times it sucked to do the exercises, but that’s what gets you better. Knee replacements take some recovery but the lack of pain and restoration of good mobility is a good goal. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Leather Fender Washers.
I have more leather scraps to cut into washers. Offering 50 washers per pack again, $6.50 shipped. I have a few packs left. Order here: http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/leather-washers-special-50-pack Thanks, David Chicago On Tuesday, October 21, 2014 at 2:58:55 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote: Apologies to the potential IBOB crosspost for some... Since making bags, I've been left with many pieces of scrap leather that I couldn't bear to throw out. These are typically used on metal fenders where fender makes direct contact with frame/fork crown. There obviously are other creative uses for them to cut down on potential vibrations. FS: Leather Fender Washers. Handcut from leather pieces too short for use in my bag production. 5/8 overall diameter. Various thickness, will come in a variety of thicknesses per pack. Veg tan color, slight variations in leather color. Selling packs of 50 for $5.50 plus shipping. Yes, 50 of 'em. I have a lot that I'd like to clear out. Quite possibly a lifetime supply. Order here: http://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/leather-washers-lot-of-50 Thanks for this shameless plug. Proceeds from these go to buying more leather for bags! David Chicago -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!
Hey Michael, Thanks for the nice clarification. I think I get what you mean now. I would never dream of asking you to move your straddle cable. What works works and that's an irrefutable tautology. The explanation or rational about why it works, now thats where I have been know to dive badly down the rabbit hole and wind up in purgatory. regards ted On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 8:22:15 AM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote: Sorry for the confusion, I certainly mis wrote that and maybe even mis thought it. My understanding, in a less technical way, is what Ted wrote. In my simple minded way, here's how I envision it. The longer a lever is from the fulcrum the more mechanical advantage it has, but that also requires moving the lever an ever greater distance across an arch in order to move the other end of the lever. When a brake lever has too much mechanical advantage it can bottom out before the brake pads have moved enough to stop the rim. That's what was wrong with the Shimano integrated levers and cantis I once had. They just needed to pull too much cable to create stopping power. A cable 90 degrees to the end of the brake arm should in theory best transmit upward energy, but since the arm pivots in an arch and the straddle is in the center, that is not possible. but it would seem to me that the closer you are to that through the entire line of brake arm travel the better off you will be. The touring cantis are already at about 45 degrees so setting the cable closer to 90 would require a lower straddle for optimum power. This explains, to me at least, why my neo retros work best with a hi straddle and confirms Pauls recommendation of 5+ inches. I'm happy to try to relearn classical physics geometry but I ain't moven my straddle cable. Michael On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 9:35:52 PM UTC-5, ted wrote: Michael, I am confused. Are you saying that not enough mechanical advantage causes the lever will bottom out, or that too much will? Do you agree with Mark that 90 deg. gives the best stopping power, and say that 45 degrees gives the most power? Are you distinguishing between pure power and stopping power, and if you are how do you define them? What exactly is the hence that makes neo retros require a higher straddle cable? Could you please elaborate? On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 4:40:16 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote: I too agree. Mechanical advantage is important to avoid having the lever bottom out before the brake fully engages, but pure power will be maximized when the straddle cable is 45 degrees to the arm. Hence the neo retros require a higher straddle cable than the touring cantis to maximize stopping power. Michael On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote: Deacon, I agree with you on this. Getting the straddle as close to 90 degrees has always been the position which yielded the greatest stopping power for me. With my neo-retro's (Aka the 'weaker' of the paul canti's) I have the cable long and up high, and I have enough power to lift up the back wheel if I really wanted. Lower straddle usually results in less power, and obviously less mud clearance as well. As I understand it, the idea is to get the cable as close to 90 degrees as you can WHEN the brakes are in contact with the rim. To read a much more exhaustive explanation than I'm willing to regurgitate, take a look at BQ's great write-up on setting up canti's. In the end, I'm sure we can all agree that Paul canti's are awesome. On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 4:18 PM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote: Deacon, I am glad that you were able get your brakes to work the way you want. I suspect you were told the opposite of what I am telling you, and that you understood what they were saying. Sadly they told you wrong. But happily they still steered you to something that worked for you. The phrase slushy brakes suggests to me low effort producing large brake lever travel with little braking effect. If that's what you had it was likely due to elasticity in the brake system, which is a separate thing from leverage. If you experience that sort of thing, look for what moves when you squeeze the lever hard after the pads hit the rim. For example, I found the steel front cable hangers flex a lot. Replacing mine with the aluminum ones improved the feel of my brakes significantly. Cables that change shape as the brakes are applied can be another source of excess travel. On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 4:21:44 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: Ted, et al engineer types: I happily bow to your knowledge on the angles and leverage, though I was told the opposite (as I understood it) before I made the change. Interestingly, either way, the experience went from slushy brakes (short saddle cable, 90˚ intersection with the brake arm) and salmon pads, to passable
[RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!
On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 10:26:03 AM UTC-8, Clayton wrote: I have to jump in here.. I have always been taught and discovered on my own, that the straddle cable should be as close to perpendicular, or at 90 degrees, to the center of the brake pad lever *when it hits the rim*. You can do this experiment on your own. Get a stick. Tie a string to it. Lay the stick on the ground and lift the string. Lift perpendicularly and then from different acute angles, inline with the stick. If you lift from acute angles, the stick slides, which is energy wasted. If you set up your brakes with a too short straddle cable, you lose feel and the leverage forces change as you apply the brakes. Starts out soft and weak, and increases as you apply the brakes because the angle gets closer to 90 degrees. Over 90 degrees, and you get weak brakes. The brake arm is just a lever. It works best, like all levers if you lift from the end at 90 degrees. The brake arm pivot placement is basic too. Long arm on the straddle cable side, shorter arm on the rim side. It does not matter at all when it comes to straddle cable length. The only lever the straddle cable acts on is the long side. The distance between the pivot and rim, and pivot and straddle cable angle is fixed and you can't change it. After 20 years plus of running cantilevers and being a mechanic for YETI cycles back in the heyday, a shop manager and mechanic, I finally gave up. I run V-brakes now, which are much more powerful, especially with long Cool Stop salmon pads. Braking is at near disc power. I can easily do a nose wheelie, using brake power alone. The feel is so good, I can anti-lock brake the front. Apply, feel it start to slide, let loose and rebrake. The only thing I don't like and it is very minor, is the hood shape on the Cane Creek Road V-brake levers. There is far more clearance with panniers and I don't poke my calf anymore. Everyone here loves their cantilevers. They are prettier and match the aesthetic of Rivendell. I get that, but for me the superiority of V-brakes has become beautiful in itself. Agree! I too tried cantis (Suntour xc pro) and hated them in the front. Tried koolstop salmon pad and no difference. My fork shudder, the brakes squealed and if my Campy ergo levers weren't adjusted just right, the lever would bottom out. Switched out the front Suntour xc pro canti brake for a cheapie Tektro 926al v-brake, an under $20 brake, and voila, fantastic braking! No more squealing, shuddering or bottoming out!!! Made me like riding my cross bike again! So, my next cross bike will be getting canti and I'm leaning towards Paul minimotos. But, if money was an issue, I wouldn't hesitate to put on a set of cheapie tektro v-brake! Good Luck! On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 7:33:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote: Deacon, The thing is, that definitely does not increase the leverage. The the vertical component of the tension in the straddle cable is equal to the tension in the brake cable (well half on each side). Lengthening the straddle cable reduces the tension in it as well as changing the angle at which it meets the brake arm. The vertical component of the tension stays the same, and the horizontal component is decreased. The net result is less torque around the brake post for a given force on the brake lever. For a wide profile brake like the 720, where the end of the arm is barely above the pivot, the decrease in leverage is relatively small. But it is a decrease, not an increase. To get an increase in leverage by lengthening the straddle cable the end of the brake arm would have to be below the pivot. Again I'm not claiming that the longer straddle cable didn't work better for you, just that the cause of the better can't have been increased leverage. On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 6:56:40 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: Kellie, I went with touring in the back because I got them used and that's the set up that was available. It's a set up common to folks who want the most power for the front brake, and clearance for panniers in the rear. Ted, lengthening the saddle cable make the angle of the brake cable to the brake arm closer to 90˚, and that definitely increased leverage. Here's what it looked like: https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/14450777149/in/set-72157645649878184 With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
I had rotator cuff surgery several years ago. I was back at work in a month (no sling) and riding my bike in a couple of months. Don't wait until your surgery to do the rehab. Stretch and do the weight work now. Like Michael says, there's a pretty good chance all you need to do is rehab and surgery is unnecessary. Good luck. On Thu, Feb 19, 2015 at 2:12 PM, Jim Bailey directio...@gmail.com wrote: Yesterday my new orthopedic surgeon informed me that I will have shoulder surgery in March. He suspects I have been walking around with a torn labrum in my left shoulder for some time (probably initially due to a bike wreck) but worsened the injury moving oak logs (for firewood) mid-fall. For those who know the jargon, it's a SLAP tear. Searching for info about cycling and recovery from this kind of surgery has left me a bit blue. It looks like 4-6 weeks in a sling, then very slow 4-6 months to full use. Ironically, I'd just received a 54cm Sam Hillborne frame the week I tore it. The frame is now fully built and sits unused. My questions are: Has anyone on the list had the surgery and, if so, what was your recovery like? And, what's the best wisdom from the group regarding cycling and recovery from SLAP repairs? Thanks, Jim in Knoxville, TN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Where did the spring go? Where did my hormones go? Where did my energy go? Where did my go go? Where did the pleasure go? Where did my hair go? -- Ray Davies -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!
Have you considered getting Paul Motolites? I hated cantis and then switched to V-brakes, but struggled to find a reliable, high-performance V-brake. The Motolite is just that: powerful, reliable and of course pretty. I added a brake booster to the front and they are dynamite now. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Bikes make it possible...
I got to thinking on my ultra short ride of 3 miles RT today about what the bike makes possible. What does the bike make possible for you? — Every run I do is made possible by my bike. Today I rode my bike through our wee mountain town on snow packed roads because if I’d walked or ran I’d have had to turn around and not make it to the trail a mere 1.5 miles away (laundry scents from dryer vents mostly). On the bike, I get past the scents usually by holding my breath, without issue. — Running errands at the town 5 miles away. And I love it! — Bikepacking. I can’t carry weight above my waist, so backpacking is out. My only options to see things very remote are to ultra run, or bikepack. Some of these trips are also wondrous and sacred time with my kids. The bike makes it possible! Those are my top three. What are yours? With abandon, Patrick www.MindYourHeadCoop.org www.OurHolyConception.org -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
I agree with Steve about being rigorous with the PT, Cecily. Six months sounds like a long time, even for a full replacement. I had a double replacement in 2010. I was on the stationary, mostly for range of motion, a few minutes at a time, after, I think, a couple of weeks. I was on my road bike after six or seven weeks (but I didn't tell my significant other until well after the fact!) I think, unless there are other issues, that six months is too conservative. But I am definitely not a doctor and I'm not you either. And, although I was only 49 and would like to have waited longer before getting the replacements, it was the best thing I could have done. I've been pain free ever since, and because I did good PT work, I have more range of motion than I had for the 20-25 years prior to the replacements. Good luck Cecily! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Advice needed: 7 sp freewheel on a 126mm hub for Rivvy build. Also, 27'' to 26 conversion experiment and pre-report.
Old style freewheel hubs with loose ball bearings are easy to respace, and yes it would be best to re-dish afterwards. You add a spacer on the drive side and remove the same amount on the non-drive side. -Dave J On Saturday, February 14, 2015 at 9:14:53 AM UTC-5, cbone97 wrote: After selling my Sam (loved it but always wanted fatter tires), I'm rebuilding a 1984 Trek 420 I picked up in a thrift store in a Rivesque fashion: dirt drop stem, B17, saddlesack, fancy Tektro drillium levers, SunRace thumbie, etc etc. The bike's original wheels are 27. As I'm a husky lad, I decided to attempt a conversion to 26 wheels so as to accommodate the fattest tires possible. I had a rear wheel built to fit the original spacing of 126mm (Velocity NoBS rim on a VO hi-flange 126mm freewheel hub), and I can fit a Michelin Country Rock 1.75 in the back - so far so good. At this point you're wondering what brakes make this possible; unfortunately not my Silvers, but Tektro makes these huge beach cruiser calipers which make this possible. Not sure of the model number - I've seen them on other posts on here re: GP having tinkered with them at some point or the like. Anyway, here's where I'd appreciate your advice: I put a Shimano 7 sp Megarange freewheel on the hub the other day and the smallest cog rubs the derailer mounting bolt. I haven't put a chain on yet but can clearly see that a chain on the smallest cog would smash against the chainstay. Everything I read before ordering the fw said a 126mm hub could do a 7 sp fw no problem, so where did I go wrong? Am I mistaken, any chance I just don't have the freewheel screwed down tight enough, should I just replace it with a 6 sp freewheel, have a bike shop remove the smallest cog (assuming it's not what holds the others on...), or what? I understand the wheel could be re-dished, but shouldn't it have been built with dish (or lack of) that assumes it would be used with a 7 sp fw? fwiw, this bike is being built to ride rails to trails - single ring up front, probably wouldn't miss the little cog...simplicity is the goal. Once it's built I'll post pics and give a report on whether 27 to 26 conversion is a good idea. If not, I'll have a pretty unique wheel for sale... Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!
Z, Thanks for this exposition. I understand this approach. The downside of it is that to get it right you must do some trig to keep track of the variation in the tangent force magnitude. The tension in the straddle wire increase the flatter it gets. Of course you never get near the theoretical infinity but it does increase, and to get the right answer from your approach you have to keep track of that and balance it correctly with the variations of alignment with your axis tangent. Please consider another approach that I think is simpler, particularly if you want qualitative insight. Keep the other half of the brake in the back of your mind. It's important because it balances the side forces that are inherent in any feasible straddle cable. In stead of decomposing the cable force into axial and tangent (or perpendicular), go with up and sideways. You do this with both the straddle and the arm. The vertical component of tension in the two halves of the straddle wire must balance the tension in the brake cable. Call the brake cable tension T, then the up force one each brake arm is T/2. This is true regardless of what the straddle cable height is, and that fact is what gives this approach its advantage. Now unless the straddle cable is vertical there will be a side force towards the centerline of the bike. The flatter the cable the larger the force. To get the torque about the pivot post, decompose the brake arm axis into sideways and upwards components (dx and dy if you like). The net torque is the sum of the up force times the sideways offset plus the side force times the upwards offset. The part of the torque from the up force times the sideways offset does not change when you alter the straddle wire height. The part of the torque from the side force times the sideways offset always helps and always get larger when you lower the straddle wire. Q.E.D. Furthermore, if you look at the sideways and upwards offset lengths of different brakes in light of what you know about the forces induced on them by the straddle cable you get an accurate intuitive sense of what is going on. With 720s or Neo-Retros the sideways offset is sizable and the vertical offset is small. Because of this these brakes are relatively insensitive to changes in straddle cable height. With low profile brakes like the Paul Touring model the sizes of the sideways and upward offsets are about reversed. They need the sideways force from the flatter straddle cable to generate significant torque, and the torque you get depends quite a bit on the straddle height. High profile cantilevers do not need a high straddle wire to maximise leverage, on the contrary raising the straddle wire always reduces the leverage. High profile cantilevers need high straddle wires to clear the tire/fender/rack. Luckily the leverage they get is relatively insensitive to straddle wire height so raising the straddle to clear whatever you need to clear is not a problem. On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 10:42:22 PM UTC-8, Z wrote: Ted, Envision one half of a cantilever brake setup. There is an axis between the points where the straddle cable attaches and the brake pivots. We'll call this The Axis. Now envision a force vector along the straddle cable. If you conceptually break down that vector into components which are 1) perpendicular to The Axis and 2) parallel to The Axis, you will realize that any force parallel to The Axis will be working against the rigidity of the cantilever brake mount. So, you really want to maximize former vector component... that is, by applying the straddle cable's force perpendicular (90 degrees) to The Axis. Of course, you want to be maximizing this force vector as the brake pad is touching the rim. It's true that you can apply a great deal of tension to a straight cable by applying a force perpendicular to its axis. However, the theoretical infinite tension doesn't really affect braking when you consider the brake pivots (and the steel frame to which they attach) resisting most of that tension, which is what you would likely achieve with a high profile cantilever and shallow straddle cable angle. Z On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 7:35:52 PM UTC-7, ted wrote: Michael, I am confused. Are you saying that not enough mechanical advantage causes the lever will bottom out, or that too much will? Do you agree with Mark that 90 deg. gives the best stopping power, and say that 45 degrees gives the most power? Are you distinguishing between pure power and stopping power, and if you are how do you define them? What exactly is the hence that makes neo retros require a higher straddle cable? Could you please elaborate? On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 4:40:16 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote: I too agree. Mechanical advantage is important to avoid having the lever bottom out before the brake fully engages, but pure power will be maximized when
[RBW] FS: Nitto Handlebars, Shimano, VO front rack, Nitto platrack, Schmidt halogen lights
Nitto Mustache25.4, scuffed sleeve. tape residue40Nitto Bosco25.4, chromo, 58cm. brand new65Nitto Grand Randonneur 13525.4, 45cm, pretty clean at sleeve, tape residue40Nitto Mark's Bar25.4,46cm, pretty clean at sleeve, tape residue50 Shimano 105 Flightdeck Brifters - ST-5500scuffed up but work great, includes flight deck computer, cadence sensor, and spoke mount.40Velo Orange Pass Hunter front rackGreat condition40SQR Seatpost Quick Release Systemgreat condition20Schmidt e6 Primary and Secondary halogen dyno lightsgreat condition75Nitto PlatrackGreat condition, no mounting bolts80 Would greatly prefer to sell locally in bay area, but if you're interested in something I can ship. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Bikes make it possible...
My around-the-block ride is three miles, and I sometimes make that loop when I don't have time for a ride. The bicycle allows me to do the only thing of significance (investment of time, resources, and a practiced skill) that I do without the feeling that I should have done a better job. So it's hugely uplifting. Chris Johnson Sanger, Texas -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: bb/thread installation question
Tools used for cutting or chasing BB threads are used enough that there is wear of material form them, including that of re-sharpening, can leave less perfect threads. If the tool has wear, the cuts are not as deep and more metal remains than if it was done by a new cutter. A new BB threaded into them may feel more snug and less smooth. Nothing you'll sense if a shop puts it in for you. Chasing the threads in a local shop will usually bring off some metal but resulting in a higher tolerance to the threading specification, and a smoother install. I doubt your installer had anything seriously wrong going on since a mis-threaded BB would be a bear to actually turn after a turn or two. If the component ended up on-axis and the other cup could even go in it finished being screwed in on the threads There may have been some abuse of the first thread of the part from not starting perfectly on line and that may have produced the drag you witnessed; the component's threading is seldom stronger than the frame's now that the piece we are screwing on isn't the actual race for the ball bearing like the old days. Those ball and cup units had a much shorter length of total threading and could be cross-threaded all the way in, then with a goliath finishing effort, turned just enough more to collapse threads (the frame's or the part's), regain on-axis alignment and finish flush against the frame's BB face. Those destructive outcomes were never appreciated until you or another shop tried to disassemble to service or replace such an installed BB and see the band of resultant missing threads in the frame. They could go on unnoticed for years or be the part that comes loose very quickly, causing a click when pedaling. BB designs have evolved in a way which circumvents the not fully proficient local installation of their parts and distances their manufacturers from frame damage claim situations in or by local shops. Andy Cheatham Pittsburgh On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 1:05:24 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote: As a professional mechanic, I would say that there are numerous reasons a BB might go in slightly tightly or not as easily as a perfect tool video might show: 1. It is true that not all frames from Rivendell are faced and chased before they are delivered to customers. I had to end up facing and chasing my Quickbeam when I got it. 2. Shimano BB's now ship with a thread locking compound pre-applied to their threads, so there is resistance from that the first time you thread in a BB. 3. Even perfectly faced/chased BB shells and BB's with clean threads will not always thread together 100% smoothly. To a certain extent it depends on the production tolerances of the BB shell and BB cups, how much deformation there was in joining the tubes and BB shell, etc. If anything, I would take comfort in the fact that it took them a while and that they backed it out to check things as they were installing it. They were taking the time to make sure it was done right. The hamfisted mechanic forces things in quickly and doesn't give it a second thought. On Tuesday, February 17, 2015 at 5:28:03 PM UTC-8, drew beckmeyer wrote: preface: im not much of a mechanic. i can install and adjust most allen wrenchy components, but beyond that, i go to a bike shop. so, i got my hunqapillar frame a few months ago and i got a standard issue shimano bb to have installed. took it to a local used bike shop and had the guys put it in, since i dont have the tool or previous knowledge of how to do this. i watched them and it looked like it was taking some work. hard cranking, working it in and out etc. grease was used, but they didnt chase it. it struck me as not the easiest/somewhat rough install, but id never seen one installed before, so what did i know... bike rides fine. bb is smooth, no sounds, no wiggle, no complaints. Cut to me, now, watching instructional videos. i stumble upon a bb install video and it seems like theirs went in much easier than mine. this makes me nervous. i call a higher end and reputable bike shop and tell them this story. mechanic says it might just be that it wasn't chased. it might be that they stripped the threads and if we take the bottom bracket out, one will never go back in again. i ask if what he would do if he was in this predicament. we can check it out, but i would maybe just ride it until you need a new bottom bracket because if the threads are gone, we cant fix it. obviously, this makes me infinitely more nervous and sick to my stomach. what can you tell me? what would you do? how likely is it that this is a deathblow? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!
Sorry for the confusion, I certainly mis wrote that and maybe even mis thought it. My understanding, in a less technical way, is what Ted wrote. In my simple minded way, here's how I envision it. The longer a lever is from the fulcrum the more mechanical advantage it has, but that also requires moving the lever an ever greater distance across an arch in order to move the other end of the lever. When a brake lever has too much mechanical advantage it can bottom out before the brake pads have moved enough to stop the rim. That's what was wrong with the Shimano integrated levers and cantis I once had. They just needed to pull too much cable to create stopping power. A cable 90 degrees to the end of the brake arm should in theory best transmit upward energy, but since the arm pivots in an arch and the straddle is in the center, that is not possible. but it would seem to me that the closer you are to that through the entire line of brake arm travel the better off you will be. The touring cantis are already at about 45 degrees so setting the cable closer to 90 would require a lower straddle for optimum power. This explains, to me at least, why my neo retros work best with a hi straddle and confirms Pauls recommendation of 5+ inches. I'm happy to try to relearn classical physics geometry but I ain't moven my straddle cable. Michael On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 9:35:52 PM UTC-5, ted wrote: Michael, I am confused. Are you saying that not enough mechanical advantage causes the lever will bottom out, or that too much will? Do you agree with Mark that 90 deg. gives the best stopping power, and say that 45 degrees gives the most power? Are you distinguishing between pure power and stopping power, and if you are how do you define them? What exactly is the hence that makes neo retros require a higher straddle cable? Could you please elaborate? On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 4:40:16 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote: I too agree. Mechanical advantage is important to avoid having the lever bottom out before the brake fully engages, but pure power will be maximized when the straddle cable is 45 degrees to the arm. Hence the neo retros require a higher straddle cable than the touring cantis to maximize stopping power. Michael On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote: Deacon, I agree with you on this. Getting the straddle as close to 90 degrees has always been the position which yielded the greatest stopping power for me. With my neo-retro's (Aka the 'weaker' of the paul canti's) I have the cable long and up high, and I have enough power to lift up the back wheel if I really wanted. Lower straddle usually results in less power, and obviously less mud clearance as well. As I understand it, the idea is to get the cable as close to 90 degrees as you can WHEN the brakes are in contact with the rim. To read a much more exhaustive explanation than I'm willing to regurgitate, take a look at BQ's great write-up on setting up canti's. In the end, I'm sure we can all agree that Paul canti's are awesome. On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 4:18 PM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote: Deacon, I am glad that you were able get your brakes to work the way you want. I suspect you were told the opposite of what I am telling you, and that you understood what they were saying. Sadly they told you wrong. But happily they still steered you to something that worked for you. The phrase slushy brakes suggests to me low effort producing large brake lever travel with little braking effect. If that's what you had it was likely due to elasticity in the brake system, which is a separate thing from leverage. If you experience that sort of thing, look for what moves when you squeeze the lever hard after the pads hit the rim. For example, I found the steel front cable hangers flex a lot. Replacing mine with the aluminum ones improved the feel of my brakes significantly. Cables that change shape as the brakes are applied can be another source of excess travel. On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 4:21:44 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote: Ted, et al engineer types: I happily bow to your knowledge on the angles and leverage, though I was told the opposite (as I understood it) before I made the change. Interestingly, either way, the experience went from slushy brakes (short saddle cable, 90˚ intersection with the brake arm) and salmon pads, to passable strength except in single track steep descents (long saddle cable, close to 90˚ intersection with the brake arm). But that point is mute now, as the Paul's are wonderful! I look forward to snow-free trails so I can try them out! With abandon, Patrick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this topic, visit
[RBW] 26.6mm Seatposts
Does anyone known of new 26.6 mm seatposts using the 2 bolt ajustments, or smaller diameters (like 25.0 mm0 which can be used with a seatpost shim (Wheels Mfg)?? The size was common on the Panasonic built Schwinns,like my 1988 Voyaguer, supplied with a SR CRE-100 1 bolt 26.6mm post. I really like the 2 bolt posts for the infinite saddle angle adjustment. John Hawrylak Woodstown NJ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
I would get a second opinion before having shoulder surgery, or for that matter any kind of major, invasive medical procedure. Some years ago I suffered from significant shoulder pain and wanted desperately to avoid surgery. I tried an osteopath. I tried PT. My doctor said the xray showed a torn labrum and only surgery would help. The nuclear doc who stared at the MRI confirmed the diagnosis. When I finally got into Dr. Claude Nichols (chief of surgery at UVM Med. Ctr Hospital, where I too worked) he said my labrum wasn't torn, it was degenerative and he couldn't fix it. He recommended an entirely different PT regimen and I was good to go in a couple of months. Just one data point but its a small investment with a potentially big payback. On the lighter side Dr. Nichols was a cyclist and fairly well known in the bike community. When a friend of mine was moving toward immediate surgery after a bike crash, he was asked if he wanted to call his wife. He replied Hell no, she's not good at surgery, call Claude. Michael On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 5:12:54 PM UTC-5, Jim Bailey wrote: Yesterday my new orthopedic surgeon informed me that I will have shoulder surgery in March. He suspects I have been walking around with a torn labrum in my left shoulder for some time (probably initially due to a bike wreck) but worsened the injury moving oak logs (for firewood) mid-fall. For those who know the jargon, it's a SLAP tear. Searching for info about cycling and recovery from this kind of surgery has left me a bit blue. It looks like 4-6 weeks in a sling, then very slow 4-6 months to full use. Ironically, I'd just received a 54cm Sam Hillborne frame the week I tore it. The frame is now fully built and sits unused. My questions are: Has anyone on the list had the surgery and, if so, what was your recovery like? And, what's the best wisdom from the group regarding cycling and recovery from SLAP repairs? Thanks, Jim in Knoxville, TN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
On 02/21/2015 12:57 PM, Cecily Walker wrote: I can empathize, Jim. I've just been told that I'll have to wait six *months* after knee replacement surgery to ride a non-stationary bike. Courage to you. This must have been a full replacement. I had a partial replacement on 3 December and was told I could ride on the road on 1 March. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
How’s the recovery progressing, Steve? Are you thinking March 1 will be doable? From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 1:23 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery On 02/21/2015 12:57 PM, Cecily Walker wrote: I can empathize, Jim. I've just been told that I'll have to wait six months after knee replacement surgery to ride a non-stationary bike. Courage to you. This must have been a full replacement. I had a partial replacement on 3 December and was told I could ride on the road on 1 March. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof. Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their professional qualifications will be provided upon request. == -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
On 02/21/2015 01:33 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J wrote: How’s the recovery progressing, Steve? Are you thinking March 1 will be doable? Doable without a doubt - there have been 3 nice days between the end of January and now where I took the porteur out for a short jaunt, 0.5 mi the first time, then 3-4 miles on subsequent trips. The only question is what sort of distances will I be able to do. I've been riding the MAP on a trainer stand in the basement, and recumbent exercise bikes at the fitness center, and also using the machines there; so it's not like it will have been 3 months of total idleness. However, there's still a strength deficit on the leg with the replacement, and it's hard to get the sort of cardio workout on a recumbent exercise bike that you'd get on a serious hill riding on the road. I'm leading a Pi Day ride on 3/14 (leaving at 9:26 am) for a distance of 31.4 miles -- and I encourage you all to do so as well, since after all this will be your last chance for seven digit Pi goodness in one hundred years (next year you'll only be able to do Pi to 4 digits) and honestly, there are very few days with such great numerological potential left this century -- so I'd damned well better be good for at least that much! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] The third Bay Area Rivendell Riders ride March 1st - Mt. Diablo
Please ride with us if you can make it - Pleasant Hill BART 9-9:15 on March 1st. Details at the link below. Check out the new group and thread at https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/bay-area-rivendell-riders (you'll need to request membership). Tony -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!
If you like your brakes, THAT is how you should run them. Everything comes down to what you like in the end. After all, they are just bicycles..CRACKA TAKA BOOM! Damn, just had to duck a thunderboltlol. Clayton (Bend) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
I can empathize, Jim. I've just been told that I'll have to wait six *months* after knee replacement surgery to ride a non-stationary bike. Courage to you. On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 2:12:54 PM UTC-8, Jim Bailey wrote: Yesterday my new orthopedic surgeon informed me that I will have shoulder surgery in March. He suspects I have been walking around with a torn labrum in my left shoulder for some time (probably initially due to a bike wreck) but worsened the injury moving oak logs (for firewood) mid-fall. For those who know the jargon, it's a SLAP tear. Searching for info about cycling and recovery from this kind of surgery has left me a bit blue. It looks like 4-6 weeks in a sling, then very slow 4-6 months to full use. Ironically, I'd just received a 54cm Sam Hillborne frame the week I tore it. The frame is now fully built and sits unused. My questions are: Has anyone on the list had the surgery and, if so, what was your recovery like? And, what's the best wisdom from the group regarding cycling and recovery from SLAP repairs? Thanks, Jim in Knoxville, TN -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] FS: Joe Bell painted lugged frame - 62.5cm
Blackwatch bike! Puts Yehuda's ninja biker to shame! Plus, the grandlander. Grin. With abandon, Patrick On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 7:09:49 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote: A dark blue/green plaid would be nice. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] FS: Joe Bell painted lugged frame - 62.5cm
A dark blue/green plaid would be nice. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: 26.6mm Seatposts
By 2 bolt I meant the Nitto S83 type, with setback and the 2 bolts in series behind the post. NOT the zero setback type John Hawrylak Woodstown NJ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: 26.6mm Seatposts
For micro-adjust seat clamps, Thomson is the gold standard. Once you tighten Thomson clamps up, they stay put. As long as the modern look (and the price) is tolerable, they're a safe bet. Unfortunately, Thomson has cut back on the range of options they offer under 27.2. They used to offer all 0.2 increments between 26.0 and 27.2 in both straight and setback, in both black and silver; but they've eliminated 26.6 in silver, and they've eliminated 26.2 and 26.4 completely (commonly used for French road frames). The size shift was only a few years ago; you may be able to find the discontinued sizes on eBay/CL. The Thomson setback posts are weird-looking, but they work. The setback is from a bend in the post, rather than in the clamp. I rode one on an undersized VooDoo frame that I'd converted to 700c wheels; the seatpost was solid, but I eventually stripped the frameset down for something larger. Peter Adler Berkeley, CA/USA On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 11:01:09 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote: If you mean a set back two bolt post like a Nitto S-83, that might be harder to find. If you mean two bolt without setback like a Thomson, that will be easy. Just type 26.6mm seatpost in ebay and buy the one you like. I'm looking at an Origin 8 branded one for $25 that looks sensible. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: 26.6mm Seatposts
You could get a 26.8mm diameter seapost (the Nitto model you mentioned is available in this size) and take some sandpaper to it to take 0.1mm off. Might be your easiest bet. David Chicago On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 2:51:45 PM UTC-6, John Hawrylak wrote: By 2 bolt I meant the Nitto S83 type, with setback and the 2 bolts in series behind the post. NOT the zero setback type John Hawrylak Woodstown NJ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
Wow. That’s great news. From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 1:55 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery On 02/21/2015 01:33 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J wrote: How’s the recovery progressing, Steve? Are you thinking March 1 will be doable? Doable without a doubt - there have been 3 nice days between the end of January and now where I took the porteur out for a short jaunt, 0.5 mi the first time, then 3-4 miles on subsequent trips. The only question is what sort of distances will I be able to do. I've been riding the MAP on a trainer stand in the basement, and recumbent exercise bikes at the fitness center, and also using the machines there; so it's not like it will have been 3 months of total idleness. However, there's still a strength deficit on the leg with the replacement, and it's hard to get the sort of cardio workout on a recumbent exercise bike that you'd get on a serious hill riding on the road. I'm leading a Pi Day ride on 3/14 (leaving at 9:26 am) for a distance of 31.4 miles -- and I encourage you all to do so as well, since after all this will be your last chance for seven digit Pi goodness in one hundred years (next year you'll only be able to do Pi to 4 digits) and honestly, there are very few days with such great numerological potential left this century -- so I'd damned well better be good for at least that much! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof. Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their professional qualifications will be provided upon request. == -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: 26.6mm Seatposts
i seem to recall the kalloy uno 248 is shaped like a one bolt Nitto 65 with infinate adjust Old School Yearbook Pics View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School Year. Look Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/54e8d8c185b9a58c145ecst04duc -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
On 02/21/2015 03:06 PM, Cecily Walker wrote: Yep, I'm on deck for a full replacement sometime this spring. Yay? Well, based on the experience of the only guy I know in the bike club who's had a full replacement, I'd say Yay is probably in order. Things went very well for him, recovery was fine, and first time out with the club after he was allowed out on the road (and that's not to say he'd been on outlaw voyages on his own prior to that) he rode very strong and had no trouble with a 38 mile ride, and was entirely free of the pain that led him to get the replacement in the first place. Good luck with it. And don't skimp on the physical therapy. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: 26.6mm Seatposts
If you mean a set back two bolt post like a Nitto S-83, that might be harder to find. If you mean two bolt without setback like a Thomson, that will be easy. Just type 26.6mm seatpost in ebay and buy the one you like. I'm looking at an Origin 8 branded one for $25 that looks sensible. On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 10:47:55 AM UTC-8, John Hawrylak wrote: Does anyone known of new 26.6 mm seatposts using the 2 bolt ajustments, or smaller diameters (like 25.0 mm0 which can be used with a seatpost shim (Wheels Mfg)?? The size was common on the Panasonic built Schwinns,like my 1988 Voyaguer, supplied with a SR CRE-100 1 bolt 26.6mm post. I really like the 2 bolt posts for the infinite saddle angle adjustment. John Hawrylak Woodstown NJ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Looking for North Coast beta: Lost Coast loop
Neil, A W Way campground is a nice county campground right on the Mattole river. It's about 5-7 miles south of Petrolia. I wouldn't recommend staying at the BLM site near Honeydew. There is also beach camping at the mouth of the Mattole river southwest of Petrolia. Depending on which direction you go out of Ferndale, you could ride up Wildcat/Mattole rd. to A W Way, then over Panther Gap to Albee Creek on Day 2, and then north on AOTG/101 to Rio Dell and Ferndale on Blue Slide rd. Winds are predominately out of the NW, so either way is going to have headwinds, but having the wind at your back while descending the wall and along the coastal terrace would be best in my experience. Gabe On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 11:51:58 AM UTC-8, Neil wrote: Hey all - a couple pals and I intend to ride the Tour of the Unknown Coast route over 3 days in late May. I'm looking for any info on camping and supplies, and any don't-miss spots along the way. We're taking 3 days/2 nights to ride about 100 miles, so we'll have lots of time for side-trips and general corn-doggin'. Any and all recomendos and advice welcome! Cheers, Neil -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Bikes and Recovering from shoulder surgery
Yep, I'm on deck for a full replacement sometime this spring. Yay? On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 10:22:46 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 02/21/2015 12:57 PM, Cecily Walker wrote: I can empathize, Jim. I've just been told that I'll have to wait six *months* after knee replacement surgery to ride a non-stationary bike. Courage to you. This must have been a full replacement. I had a partial replacement on 3 December and was told I could ride on the road on 1 March. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
