[RBW] Re: RBWHQ spy report

[Reid]

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 6:33:37 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> No phone photo?


Really, Bill. No pics?!?! You could get banned from this forum, ya' know.

Curious Reid

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[RBW] How to trim skewer length without damaging thread?

[Kainalu]

Thread a nut on to the skewer inside of where you want to cut it, cut it, then 
file the cut to dull the edge. Backing off the nut will right any wrongs, 
leaving you with a nice end.
-Kai
Brooklyn NY 

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[RBW] How to trim skewer length without damaging thread?

[Lungimsam]

Trimmed my pitlock skewer and almost couldnt get the nut back on. Took a while 
to get the threads going again. Scary. But all is well.

Any advice how to do this without distorting the threads so I get better 
results next time?

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Re: [RBW] How do you know what the VAT/duty is going to be if you buy from EU/Japan?

[cyclotourist]

Outside of the EU, you don't have to pay the VAT. So when you're looking at
a vendor's site like https://www.bike24.com/ when you change your location
to United States it calculates the price without the VAT included. Shipping
is usually a fixed amount, around $20. Never had to pay any duty.


On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 9:04 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> I know some of you buy from EU and Japanese vendors. Some products are
> waaayy less expensive if bought from them and the shipping seems
> reasonable. But how can you tell if you will have to pay duty/VAT fees and
> what they will be?
>
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[RBW] Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Kainalu]

No, for the middle. Ground a 52 down for a great rock ring. 
A 107mm would be great, I had a 110 and it was fine too. I ditched the 32 ring, 
not enough technical climbing to need it, but I do want to be comfortable 
running the 40x19 option occasionally. Since I have the 103mm bottom bracket in 
place and three 175 Xd2 triple cranksets, having already dug into this one, I 
may as well keep digging? carefully.

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[RBW] Re: Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Lungimsam]

Do not walk, but run to your computer and get them while you can. I love 
their tights and 3/4 tights. So comfortable and soft and *unrestricted* 
movement.

Did all my distance riding in them during the last year. Pads are 
fantastic, too. But I guess that is personal.

I got them on sale, too, the 3/4 last year and the full tights this year. I 
buy *way* up for fear of shrinkage. But no shrinkage yet. Wash cold, lay 
flat to dry.

I am 5'8" max. and 170 lbs. and I have the XXL 3/4 and the XL full length 
fito. Both fit great and have been wonderful on rides up to 130 miles. 
Haven't ridden them further than that. A little baggy in the seat on the 
XXL 3/4 while walking. But they were fantastic on the bike on centuries and 
the 130 mile ride. Everything stays in place. Don't be afraid to buy up a 
size.

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[RBW] How do you know what the VAT/duty is going to be if you buy from EU/Japan?

[Lungimsam]

I know some of you buy from EU and Japanese vendors. Some products are 
waaayy less expensive if bought from them and the shipping seems 
reasonable. But how can you tell if you will have to pay duty/VAT fees and 
what they will be?

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[RBW] RBWHQ spy report

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Happy to hear that the SAMs are in.  I'm getting one of the orange frames.  
Still working out my components but should be a fun process

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[RBW] Re: Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Andrew Patteson]

I have half clips of various types on all of my bikes.  They're a 
just-right compromise for me.  This kind 
 is 
new to me and I think they are the best of all.

Andrew in SLC

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Re: [RBW] Re: Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Dan McNamara]

Yes. The pad is not too bad. 

Looks like the 3/4 "knickers" are still available in all sizes. Those are my 
personal favs. At $50 they are a great deal with or without pad. 

Not an ibex employee. Just love wool. 

Dan



> On May 20, 2016, at 3:12 PM, Belopsky  wrote:
> 
> or keep the pad and pack on miles?
> 
>> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 2:16:06 PM UTC-4, danmc wrote:
>> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and 
>> tights on their website. 
>> 
>> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights. 
>> 
>> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling "pants" 
>> for cooler weather. 
>> 
>> Dan
> 
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[RBW] RBWHQ spy report

[Ron Mc]

No phone photo?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Patrick Moore]

I actually find getting into semi-tight straps easier than getting into
single sided "clipless" pedals, at least on fixed gears. I have
clips/straps on the folder, and getting my slip ons into them takes less
time than getting into the M 324s that they replaced. The straps are tight
enough to hug the sides of my shoes when I insert them, but loose enough
not to hinder the process.

I've tried half clips (plastic) only briefly, and didn't find they had any
advantage, for me, over full clips and straps.

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 12:07 PM, Robert Liebermann 
wrote:

> I use half clips on riding around bikes, and full w/straps on longer
> rides. 'Getting into' straps only takes a fraction of a second (like
> friction shifting or looking at a map) and I prefer those while touring or
> long day rides. I'm about to try the fancy leather mks halfs on a riding
> around town bike I'm finishing up (1989 Trek 420 since you were curious),
> and same w/o leather on my 1982 (lugged) stumpjumper I'm also finishing up
> (when I bought it a few years ago, not very ridden, it had Christophe
> specials on it).
>
> Anyway, I like half clips, and the Japanese-made MKSs are the best, cheap,
> and available widely. I haven't used Looks in well over a decade, though
> for about 15 years I thought they were the cat's meow.
>
> Also recommend MKS pedal flips if you're using Sylvan tourings. They even
> work perfectly when bent-down, as seen here on some (mostly) 'beausage'
> photos from last fall's tour: http://rjl.us/velo/2005LHTpix-6.htm
>
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[RBW] Re: How to keep your bike from getting stolen.

[Sam Day]

my oldest pitlock is 15years old - bought in Germany in 2001. no problems.

mechanical awareness helps avoid stripping or whatnot. 

If some online bike rag guy had his fail, I'm guessing user error. 

sam, seattle, 



On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 9:00:36 AM UTC-7, John Phillips wrote:
>
> I found a column in an online bike rag yesterday, can't remember where, in 
> which the columnist said Pitlock wheel skewers will eventually strip and 
> need replacement.
>
> This guy said his lasted three years before needing to be replaced.
>
> Has anyone here had any experiences with Pitlock skewers wearing out? Does 
> anyone replace theirs on a regular basis?
>
> Or has anyone had trouble getting the seatpost pitlock tight enough to 
> keep your seatpost from slipping?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Brad]

Are you trying to get the chainline perfect for the outermost chainring on the 
XD2?

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[RBW] Re: Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Robert Liebermann]

I use half clips on riding around bikes, and full w/straps on longer rides. 
'Getting into' straps only takes a fraction of a second (like friction 
shifting or looking at a map) and I prefer those while touring or long day 
rides. I'm about to try the fancy leather mks halfs on a riding around town 
bike I'm finishing up (1989 Trek 420 since you were curious), and same w/o 
leather on my 1982 (lugged) stumpjumper I'm also finishing up (when I 
bought it a few years ago, not very ridden, it had Christophe specials on 
it).

Anyway, I like half clips, and the Japanese-made MKSs are the best, cheap, 
and available widely. I haven't used Looks in well over a decade, though 
for about 15 years I thought they were the cat's meow. 

Also recommend MKS pedal flips if you're using Sylvan tourings. They even 
work perfectly when bent-down, as seen here on some (mostly) 'beausage' 
photos from last fall's tour: http://rjl.us/velo/2005LHTpix-6.htm

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[RBW] Re: Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Matt B.]

How many gears are you using up front on your QB?   I have the two stock 
gears on mine (40, 32) and use them both frequently with a white 16/19 FW 
in back.   I keep the chainline right in the middle with a 107mm BB.

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 1:42:11 PM UTC-4, Kainalu wrote:
>
> As a wise someone once told me, perfection is an affront to god. I've now 
> got it, perfect chainline, but at what cost? Check out the picture.
> With a 103mm bottom bracket (branded Sugino, with Suntour branded 
> bearings), this is my XD2 triple after having shaved off a millimeter of 
> aluminum so it could spin freely within the bracket.
> My question: 
> How terrible was it to try this? And worse, if I want to keep the 103mm, 
> is this a spot where I, being a fairly competent metal worker, could remove 
> more material without lingering fear of catastrophic failure?? 
> Thanks
> -Kai
> Brooklyn NY
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Daniel D.]

 Yet the bumble bee still flies...

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Re: [RBW] Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Eric Norris]

Got it.

–Eric N


> On May 20, 2016, at 4:43 PM, Robert F. Harrison  wrote:
> 
> Just use their search box for 'El Fito' and you should see 'em.
> 
> http://shop.ibex.com/merino-wool-clothing?search=el+fito=Go
> 
> Aloha,
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 1:21 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
>> Do you have a link? I'm not seeing any sale prices in their online store:
>> 
>> http://shop.ibex.com/activity/mens-cycling
>> 
>> Eric N
>> www.CampyOnly.com
>> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
>> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> 
>> > On May 20, 2016, at 11:16 AM, Dan McNamara  wrote:
>> >
>> > Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and 
>> > tights on their website.
>> >
>> > $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights.
>> >
>> > Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling 
>> > "pants" for cooler weather.
>> >
>> > Dan
>> >
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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> rfharri...@gmail.com
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Re: [RBW] Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Daniel D.]

 Thanks for the heads up

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Re: [RBW] Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Eric Norris]

Do you have a link? I'm not seeing any sale prices in their online store: 

http://shop.ibex.com/activity/mens-cycling 

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On May 20, 2016, at 11:16 AM, Dan McNamara  wrote:
> 
> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and 
> tights on their website. 
> 
> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights. 
> 
> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling "pants" 
> for cooler weather. 
> 
> Dan
> 
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[RBW] RBWHQ spy report

[Joe Bernard]

I really need to get over there and poke around and spend some money. I chat 
via email with GP occasionally and buy stuff online, but I get starstruck and 
nervous in person. Yes, I realize how silly this is! 

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[RBW] Re: 110 bcd Square Taper Cranksets – TA, Ritchey, XC Pro, more (cross-post)

[Greg J]

Thanks for all your responses.  Availability of items updated below.

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 1:02:43 PM UTC-7, Greg J wrote:
>
> Sorry for the cross-post from the iBob list, but I think this should be of 
> interest to this group also
>
> I don’t know how I accumulated these over the years, but I don’t see that 
> I will use them anytime soon, so they’re up for grabs.
>
> [SOLD] TA Carmina (172.5) – 48/38 “Zephyr” matched rings in very good 
> (7.5/10) condition. I also have 2x 34T rings, but they are black and called 
> “Syrius.” According to Peter White, the 34T should mix n match with the 
> Zephyr 48T. $100 shipped with 48/38. If you want the 34T, add $25 for the 
> one with less use, or $15 for the more used one.
>
> Sugino Alpina (170) – 48/34 matched rings in very good condition (8.5/10). 
> Also known as the Cospea, I think. Shows some use, but still very nice. $90 
> shipped.
>
> [SOLD]  Ritchey Logic (175) – arms and crank bolts/spacers and 24T only. 
> The logos still look good (6.5/10). $55 shipped.
>
> Suntour XC Pro (175) – currently set up as 50/38 (Specialized and Sugino 
> rings) but is drilled for a 74bcd triple inner. In good condition (5/10). 
> $50 shipped.
>
> [SOLD]  Shimano Deore (170) triple – 46/36/24 rings. This is the MT80 
> model, in good condition, with lots of life left (5/10). $40 shipped.
>
> Detailed pics can be found here: 
> http://s102.photobucket.com/user/gregkjung/library/110%20bcd%20Cranksets%20for%20Sale
>
> I also have lots of square taper bb's (Phils, Ritchey, UN-xx), but I need 
> to take inventory first.
>
> thanks, Greg
> Oakland, CA
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] RBWHQ spy report

[Bill Lindsay]

Nothing earth shattering, but the highlight for ME was I saw a prototype 
tandem frameset.  It looked pretty cool.  Riv has done several bendy-tubed 
bikes, but the tandem had a few ovalized tubes.  That was new.  

The highlight for YOU is that Hillbornes were being prepped for shipping. 
 I really like the new orange.  It's just a little bit more rusty than 
previous shades I've seen on Rivendell models.  

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[RBW] Re: Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Belopsky]

or keep the pad and pack on miles?

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 2:16:06 PM UTC-4, danmc wrote:
>
> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and 
> tights on their website. 
>
> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights. 
>
> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling 
> "pants" for cooler weather. 
>
> Dan 
>

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Re: [RBW] Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Chris Birkenmaier]

+1 on the VP and Sabot pedals.  I own both but the VPs are my go to pedals on 
several of my bikes.  Nice secure grip

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[masmojo]

Well, I've personally built several disk wheels & a couple of those were fronts 
and will be building 2 or 3 more shortly. (On top of that I have probably built 
a couple dozen non disk wheels) No disrespect to Rich but the front disk hubs I 
have used required no dish at all! Typically, (from what little I've seen) the 
manufacturers relocate the non braking side flange further inboard so that no 
dishing of the wheel is needed and while I prefer not having any dish in the 
wheel I am not sure whether I wouldn't prefer it to the loss of triangulation 
that results from moving the flanges in to compensate for the disk.
I used the term sprung weight mearly as a counterpoint to the rolling weight 
and because a better term did not come to mind. It was not the significant 
point of the topic anywayz. The main point that you obviously missed was that 
less rotating mass is preferable to less weight in the frame. AND not to be 
argumentative or go into too much pointless explanation, but a bicycle frame on 
spoked wheels would be considered sprung weight! 
Your friends Trek probably just got a bum wheel, my XO-1s front wheel broke 
several spokes when I first got it, tore it down rebuilt it, no further 
problems. 
The average rider probably doesn't break too many spokes regardless of 
configuration, which was part of the point of what I was making. If you break a 
lot of spokes you need a new wheel builder.

My experience with trying to straighten pieces of metal like brake rotors is 
that typically you do more harm then good. The tolerances on disks are so small 
that a wobble of less then a millimeter effects whether it will rub or not and 
by extension how good it will work. I have seen people "shrink" metal, using a 
torch/heat, but again I might cause more harm then good.

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[RBW] Re: FS - Sugino Alpina Crankset 175mm 48/34 110mm BCD

['pb' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Bob,

I tried PM'ing again, and here also is my email address.

pbridge130  AT  aol  DOT  com

Thanks,

pb



On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 10:53:32 AM UTC-7, stoker wrote:

> Hi Peter - I did not receive. 
>
> Bob
>
> On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 12:35:15 PM UTC-5, pb wrote:
>>
>> PM sent - please let me know if you don't get it. 
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> ~Peter
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 5:16:27 PM UTC-7, stoker wrote:
>>
>>> For Sale - Sugino Alpina Crankset in excellent condition. Less than 200 
>>> miles total. Chainrings are ramped and pinned, 9/10 speed. Compatible with 
>>> 5-10 speeds.
>>> 175mm length, 48/34 rings. I removed the logo's. Asking $105 shipped to 
>>> the lower 48. PayPal only please!
>>>
>>> Thanks for looking.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[iamkeith]

One word of caution:  

I haven't tried the steel MKS ones, but have tried both plastic ones and a 
couple of different sizes of Bruce Gordons.  In both cases, they were too 
short.  In other words, they didn't allow my toes to slide in far enough 
forward.   Bruce offers extra-large ones, which is what I got the second 
time, and they work much, much better, but even those are less than ideal 
(For reference, I use these on MKS Sylvan type pedals.  A flat pedal that 
was wider front-to-back would work better)

I used toe clips and straps for a long time without complaint, before 
switching exclusively to SPD for decades, then back to a combination of 
SPDs & flats, and ultimately back to mixing in some traditional 
clips/straps and these mini clips - and am not exactly sure why the clips 
now feel so wrong, but I have a theory:

When I used to wear silly biking shoes with a rigid or semi-rigid sole, it 
didn't matter as much where my foot sat, relative to the pedal axle.   More 
or less ball of foot was fine, and the stiff sole compensated.  Maybe it 
even provided some extra leverage when my form was peak.   But, when I 
started using huge flat pedals, they allowed me to use more flexible street 
shoes and I liked it.  But as a result, my preferred foot position has 
intuitively shifted forward so the axle sits slightly more toward the arch 
of my foot.   This is more natural, it is where I get the most power, it is 
more secure/stable on bumpy trails, and I'm less prone to ankle injury from 
not pedaling properly over long distances (which I tend to do early in the 
year, if I ride too much too soon.)  Eventually, I shifted the cleats on my 
SPDs to mimic this, and I would now argue that it is proper.  If nothing 
else, It is nice to be able to shift my foot around as I ride -   more 
forward for descents, more to the rear if tight turns are giving me overlap 
issues with the front wheel.

So basically, if you've gotten used to the freedom of flat pedals, I would 
suggest the extra large Bruce Gordon half clips AND/OR consider attaching 
them to pedals with longer platforms. You still have something over the top 
of your foot to pull up on, but you have the freedom to shift fore and aft 
as you like.



On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 11:15:08 AM UTC-6, Jack B wrote:
>
> I mostly subscribe to the Riv theory about pedals, i.e. I ride flat pedals 
> w/ street shoes for my daily rides.
>
> My current setup has MKS Sylvan touring pedals, which I bought with the 
> idea that I could add toeclips and straps for longer rides.
>
> Well now I'm about to go on a longish ride for an s24o, and don't really 
> want to mess with full clips and straps, but also think it might be nice to 
> have some more leverage.
>
> Anyone have success with these half-clips that MKS and VO offer?
> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=32040
>
> Seems like a nice compromise, but I'm also skeptical about the 
> effectiveness. Anyone have experience with these?
>
> cheers,
> Jack B.
>

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[RBW] PSA - Fuji Touring IV on Austin Craigslist

[Mike K.]

Poster doesn't quite seem to know what they've got on their hands, though 
based on the pics it is in need of some TLC. 

http://austin.craigslist.org/bik/5574173850.html

I'd snag it but I just dropped my bike $ on an '87 Voyageur.

- Mike


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[RBW] Re: Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[George Schick]

Yeah, if the freewheel is engaging too few threads it's probably not a good 
idea to use a spacer behind it.  But it's been so long since I've dealt 
with run-of-the-mill (non-Phil) FW hubs that I had completely forgotten 
that you can move the chainline back and forth on those a bit, too, by 
adding or removing spacers or washers to one side or the other.  Here's a 
link to an on-line retailer that offers some from 1mm up to 4mm, including 
a bag of assorted sizes.  Then, when you've got the chainline where you 
want it, re-center the wheel.

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 2:28:01 PM UTC-5, Kainalu wrote:
>
> George, you make a very good point. I'm hesitant because, in my very 
> limited freewheel experience, I thought the wasn't all too much thread 
> engagement with the hub as is. It's an All City branded hub. 
> How many turns are enough?
>
> And Bill, I used my mill/lathe combination tool, AKA Dremel sanding wheel 
> to get in there. I'm a sculptor, not a machinist, but someday maybe I'll 
> get access to a mill and learn to do it right. Until then I'll take my time 
> to keep it smooth and avoid any nasty gouges
>

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[RBW] Ride Report & Musings on Bicycling as Joy

[kielsun]

Here's a rather lengthy "ride report" from my ride with co-workers for 
National Bike to Work Day. It's really more a reflection on how my reasons 
for biking have changed over the years. Please feel free to respond with 
similar reflections of your own.

- - - - - - - - - -

I lived in Baltimore City for about a decade, and for several of those 
years, I was a bike commuter. My steed, a rattle-can-brown early 80s Trek 
single-speed conversion, was light and fast. I ran 23mm Gatorskins pumped 
to 100 psi. I darted between cars and blew through lights. I rode without a 
helmet. I did everything that I wouldn't dream of doing now and I didn’t 
think twice about it. I just needed to get to work, and I was often late, 
so I needed to get there as quickly as possible.

A few years into my decade in the City, I bought a car, a faded gold '97 
Corolla that had been through the ringer. I handed my friend Amy a crisp $1 
bill and she handed me the title. (That was the second $1 car I'd bought in 
my life, the first being an '83 Civic, "Norm," that I bought off a college 
roommate.  A couple years later, the Glendora CA Police Department towed it 
while I was out of the country and I never saw it again. But that's another 
story.)

Once I had the car, my bike commuting days slowly came to an end. I gave 
every excuse in the world as to why I stopped riding to work, but they 
didn’t really add up to much beyond indifference. And that indifference, 
I've realized, stemmed from the fact that biking had become a strictly 
point-a-to-point-b venture. It was all utility and no joy--which is 
particularly sad because of how joyfully my biking life began: 
destinationless, meandering rides through the South Dakota countryside, all 
gravel roads, one hand on the handlebar and the other clutching a fishing 
rod or BB gun. 

So I guess the point of all this is that I went on a bike ride this 
morning, and it was fun. I met my co-workers at a quarter past six. We rode 
five winding miles through suburban neighborhoods, down roads I'd never 
traveled, walked our bikes through holes in fences at the end of dead end 
streets, avoided traffic at all costs. Our destination was the Towson pit 
stop for National Bike to Work Day. 

During my bike commuting days, self-righteousness stirred from deep within 
anytime I caught wind of this annual tradition. Co-workers would go out of 
their way to tell me, the only biker guy they knew, that they were planning 
to ride. They'd brush the dust off of their hybrids and mountain bikes and 
squirt some WD-40 on the chains. On the day of, they'd text pictures of the 
commute, and they'd stop by my classroom to see if I'd gotten their 
messages. Some years, I'd even go out of my way to take the bus on that 
day, imagining that it was some sort of a statement. In my youth, 
everything had to be exclusively mine.

But today, I didn’t think about any of that. My Sam felt better than ever. 
My co-workers and I smiled and laughed and talked, mostly about past bike 
rides, and we made plans for future rides, too--adventures we’ll go on 
together. And while I’ve been joyfully riding my bike again now for years, 
today I bid official farewell to the jaded rider of my early 20s, the one 
who didn’t remember how much joy could come from hopping on a bicycle with 
one goal, to just ride.

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[RBW] Re: Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Kainalu]

George, you make a very good point. I'm hesitant because, in my very limited 
freewheel experience, I thought the wasn't all too much thread engagement with 
the hub as is. It's an All City branded hub. 
How many turns are enough?

And Bill, I used my mill/lathe combination tool, AKA Dremel sanding wheel to 
get in there. I'm a sculptor, not a machinist, but someday maybe I'll get 
access to a mill and learn to do it right. Until then I'll take my time to keep 
it smooth and avoid any nasty gouges

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Tim Gavin]

Regarding truing a disc rotor, it can be frustrating to get "just right",
but it's a simple task with an adjustable wrench or a specific tool (like
the Park DT-2 ).

Truing a rotor is similar to truing a wheel, with the following differences;
* the brake pads become the truing indicators, and they're a lot harder to
see clearly than the feelers on a truing stand.  I pivot the bike on its
repair stand until the rotor and caliper are easy to see, and I can see a
lighted surface between the pads and rotor.
* you use brute force to bend the rotor back into alignment (instead of
mechanical force from adjusting spoke tension), and it can be pretty fussy
to get the rotor straight again.

It does seem unfortunately easy to bend a rotor.


Regarding disc vs. rim brakes:  I like both, and have bikes with both.
However, for muddy/wet/filthy riding, I greatly prefer disc brakes.  For
road/gravel/dry riding, rim brakes work fine for me.

That said, I've tuned my rim brakes as well as the internet, this forum,
and the head mechanic at my shop have instructed me, and they still don't
have the stopping power of even my mediocre (for discs) BB7R calipers, let
alone the incredibly powerful (and easily-modulated) hydraulic BR-M780
calipers.
My Riv Road, with Paul Racer calipers (with KS pads), requires me to think
ahead before braking, because it won't stop on a dime like my disc
brake-equipped bikes will.  Stoppies aren't a worry.
My '99 Schwinn KOM (with BR-M730 cantis and U-brakes) is actually a better
stopper, and my Roadeo (with Tektro R539 calipers) is pretty decent.

Cheers,
Tim

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 2:00 PM, masmojo  wrote:

>
> My major beef with disks is that if you lean the bike against something or
> the bike falls over it can get warped or bent and once it is, it seems to
> stay that way. At least if your wheel is out of true,  you can easily fix
> it.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Steve Palincsar]

On 05/20/2016 03:00 PM, masmojo wrote:

I am a diehard canti. guy, but I do have a few bikes with mechanical disk brakes.  
While Grants observations are correct, there are trade offs; I have recently been 
looking at going tubeless on a build and I've noticed some things, first most 
tubeless/ disk specific wheels rarely have more than 32 spoke &  many have 28! 
It stands to reason that while a disk brake may require a stouter frame,  a rim 
brake is going to ideally need a stouter wheel.


How do you figure that?   As Rich Lesnik said here the other day,

   "A front disc-brake wheel is heavily dished (uneven spoke tension,
   left to right). The proximity of the braking surface to the hub
   increases the stress on the pulling spokes, relieving the "pushing"
   spokes -- the flex on the looser-side spokes can work-harden the
   bend in the spoke elbow at the hub, and it will eventually break.
   Same thing with the rear wheel (only here the lower-tension spokes
   are on the non-drive, left side). These spokes are already prone to
   breaking over the long haul, as they flex more, and will work-harden
   more quickly. This increased stress would still be problematic on a
   non-dished disc-brake front wheel, as well, because of the increased
   stress all around, at the hub. Admittedly, replacing a broken spoke
   is easier, and less costly, than replacing a worn rim. Nonetheless,
   a dished front wheel presents additional problems -- as the primary
   braking instrument, the front wheel, when unevenly tensioned (side
   to side), can, under severe stopping conditions, become unstable,
   provoke an accident, or even "figure-8". Not good."

And Rich is a very highly respected wheel builder, the very top of the 
heap in Rivendell-world.  And I can add some anecdotal evidence to this: 
a guy in our bike club bought a disc-equipped Trek 
kinda-sorta-touring-bike last year, the one made for those proprietary 
"dry bags" that mount on a proprietary rack on the front fork.  Since 
he's had the bike, he's broken spokes in both the front and rear 
wheels.   Other than this, I'm not sure I can recall a single front 
wheel I've ever seen that's broken spokes.




Now simple engineering dictates that less rolling weight is preferable to 
sprung weight, so theoretically,  moving the strength/additional weight to the 
frame should result in faster, better accerating,  lively handling bike!


Unless you're talking about a suspension bike, there is no "sprung 
weight," is there?   And in the suspension world, it's between sprung 
weight and unsprung weight, with the former being greatly preferred.




Now are the differences noticeable by the average rider?? That remains to be 
seen


The average rider will most certainly notice broken spokes.



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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[masmojo]

I am a diehard canti. guy, but I do have a few bikes with mechanical disk 
brakes.  While Grants observations are correct, there are trade offs; I have 
recently been looking at going tubeless on a build and I've noticed some 
things, first most tubeless/ disk specific wheels rarely have more than 32 
spoke &  many have 28! It stands to reason that while a disk brake may require 
a stouter frame,  a rim brake is going to ideally need a stouter wheel. 
Now simple engineering dictates that less rolling weight is preferable to 
sprung weight, so theoretically,  moving the strength/additional weight to the 
frame should result in faster, better accerating,  lively handling bike!
Now are the differences noticeable by the average rider?? That remains to be 
seen
Initially, I avoided disk brakes, because I perceived them as being overly 
complicated & expensive, but they are actually pretty simple and costs have 
plummeted over the last few years to the point that the cost difference is 
negligible. 
I still prefer Cantis., but I don't really mind disks now. 
My major beef with disks is that if you lean the bike against something or the 
bike falls over it can get warped or bent and once it is, it seems to stay that 
way. At least if your wheel is out of true,  you can easily fix it. 

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Re: [RBW] Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Tim Gavin]

Nice prices, available in XL!  Thanks for the heads-up.  I have two pairs
of Ibex cycling shorts and they're excellent.

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 1:16 PM, Dan McNamara  wrote:

> Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and
> tights on their website.
>
> $49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights.
>
> Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling
> "pants" for cooler weather.
>
> Dan
>
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[RBW] Re: Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Bill Lindsay]

Did you use the mill or the lathe?  Both present their own challenges in 
set-up I'd imagine.  The lathe would let you take a pass at an angle, 
making it kind of conical.  Then you fit inside the BB while maintaining 
the surface engagement between crank arm and spindle.  With the mill you're 
more likely just going to face it flat, which might make you a little more 
nervous.  Even if something did fail I would not expect it to be 
catastrophic.  I say go for it, either way. 

Bill

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 10:42:11 AM UTC-7, Kainalu wrote:
>
> As a wise someone once told me, perfection is an affront to god. I've now 
> got it, perfect chainline, but at what cost? Check out the picture.
> With a 103mm bottom bracket (branded Sugino, with Suntour branded 
> bearings), this is my XD2 triple after having shaved off a millimeter of 
> aluminum so it could spin freely within the bracket.
> My question: 
> How terrible was it to try this? And worse, if I want to keep the 103mm, 
> is this a spot where I, being a fairly competent metal worker, could remove 
> more material without lingering fear of catastrophic failure?? 
> Thanks
> -Kai
> Brooklyn NY
>

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Re: [RBW] Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Justin August]

I have found that larger flat pedals with aggressive pins (VO Sabot, VP001) 
give me more connection, retention and flexibility in my pedaling than half 
clips did. Half clips felt like more work to keep my foot engaged in than 
benefit that I was given. 

-Justin

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Re: [RBW] Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Jack B]

Thanks for the replies.

Dan, thanks for the generous offer on the VO clips, but I think if I want 
to try these then I'll just pick some up today at my LBS so that I can use 
them on my weekend ride. 

cheers,
JB

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 11:09:54 AM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I used mks steel medium deep toeclips -no straps on my MKS touring pedals 
> for a while.
>
> But I like riding without the clips better. Since 2013 I have done all my 
> riding on just the bare MKS touring pedals -no clips or straps. Just free.
> I have done centuries and one 200k brevet with just the touring pedals. 
> Best riding of my life. So nice to ride free. On and off the bike is a 
> breeze.
>
> So I would say riding with MKS Touring pedals on longer rides is fantastic.
>
>

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[RBW] Price drop on El Fito at Ibex

[Dan McNamara]

Just noticed that Ibex dropped the price on the closeout El Fito 3/4 and tights 
on their website. 

$49.99 and $64.99 respectively. Not available in all sizes for the tights. 

Remove the pad and you are good to go. These are great wool cycling "pants" for 
cooler weather. 

Dan

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Re: [RBW] Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Lungimsam]

I used mks steel medium deep toeclips -no straps on my MKS touring pedals for a 
while.

But I like riding without the clips better. Since 2013 I have done all my 
riding on just the bare MKS touring pedals -no clips or straps. Just free.
I have done centuries and one 200k brevet with just the touring pedals. Best 
riding of my life. So nice to ride free. On and off the bike is a breeze.

So I would say riding with MKS Touring pedals on longer rides is fantastic.

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[RBW] Re: How to keep your bike from getting stolen.

[bluebirdonabicycle]

Thanks to everyone for the experienced advice...
However, Has anyone adopted any of the new GPS anti-theft deterrence 
gizmos? 
Like Sherlock.Bike   or  Spybike.com?

Chief

On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 10:45:23 AM UTC-4, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:
>
> Apologize if this is a dumb question, but
> Don"t laugh. Im just getting back into riding a bicycle. Im an older 
> fellow. I will be getting an expensive Riv.
> My main concern is it getting stolen while parked outside a store, 
> restaurant, or who knows where.
> Other than just quit worrying, Are there any suggestions that any of you 
> (who have the same concerns) can offer?
> Im not up on possible new technology, so other than chaining it up to 
> death, Good advice is needed.
>
> Thank you very much. Chief
>

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[RBW] Re: Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[George Schick]

I had a similar problem with a 70's road bike that I wanted to set up as a 
single speed, but I focused on the rear end.  Dropout spacing was 120mm and 
I had a Phil hub that I wanted to use in conjunction with an ENO SS 
freewheel.  So I unscrewed the axle caps on the Phil, flipped 'em to the 
opposite sides, and then re-centered the wheel.  This moved the freewheel 
over enough on the drive side so that it created a perfect chainline with 
the chain on the inner chainring.  Not sure what the rear spacing is on a 
Quickbeam and I realize that the Sugino won't give you this kind of 
flexibility, but maybe adding a few spacers behind the freewheel would be a 
better alternative to monkeying with the crankset.

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 12:42:11 PM UTC-5, Kainalu wrote:
>
> As a wise someone once told me, perfection is an affront to god. I've now 
> got it, perfect chainline, but at what cost? Check out the picture.
> With a 103mm bottom bracket (branded Sugino, with Suntour branded 
> bearings), this is my XD2 triple after having shaved off a millimeter of 
> aluminum so it could spin freely within the bracket.
> My question: 
> How terrible was it to try this? And worse, if I want to keep the 103mm, 
> is this a spot where I, being a fairly competent metal worker, could remove 
> more material without lingering fear of catastrophic failure?? 
> Thanks
> -Kai
> Brooklyn NY
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Sugino Alpina Crankset 175mm 48/34 110mm BCD

[stoker]

Hi Peter - I did not receive. 

Bob

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 12:35:15 PM UTC-5, pb wrote:
>
> PM sent - please let me know if you don't get it. 
>
> Thanks
>
> ~Peter
>
> On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 5:16:27 PM UTC-7, stoker wrote:
>
>> For Sale - Sugino Alpina Crankset in excellent condition. Less than 200 
>> miles total. Chainrings are ramped and pinned, 9/10 speed. Compatible with 
>> 5-10 speeds.
>> 175mm length, 48/34 rings. I removed the logo's. Asking $105 shipped to 
>> the lower 48. PayPal only please!
>>
>> Thanks for looking.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Another Clementine build

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks for the comments!

Yeah, I'm aware of the XL Clem H... problem is I have two bombadils so there's 
no justification for it. A gigantic step-through would be something else 
entirely!

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Re: [RBW] Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Dan McNamara]

I run Bruce Gordon half clips with White Industries pedals and like them. Did 
not want to mess with straps or head into step-in pedals and shoes and all that 
involves. 

Somewhere in my parts bin there is a set of the VO half clips if you are 
interested. Just cover postage. 

Dan

> On May 20, 2016, at 10:15 AM, Jack B  wrote:
> 
> I mostly subscribe to the Riv theory about pedals, i.e. I ride flat pedals w/ 
> street shoes for my daily rides.
> 
> My current setup has MKS Sylvan touring pedals, which I bought with the idea 
> that I could add toeclips and straps for longer rides.
> 
> Well now I'm about to go on a longish ride for an s24o, and don't really want 
> to mess with full clips and straps, but also think it might be nice to have 
> some more leverage.
> 
> Anyone have success with these half-clips that MKS and VO offer?
> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=32040
> 
> Seems like a nice compromise, but I'm also skeptical about the effectiveness. 
> Anyone have experience with these?
> 
> cheers,
> Jack B.
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[RBW] Getting the Quickbeam's chainline perfect!!

[Kainalu]

As a wise someone once told me, perfection is an affront to god. I've now 
got it, perfect chainline, but at what cost? Check out the picture.
With a 103mm bottom bracket (branded Sugino, with Suntour branded 
bearings), this is my XD2 triple after having shaved off a millimeter of 
aluminum so it could spin freely within the bracket.
My question: 
How terrible was it to try this? And worse, if I want to keep the 103mm, is 
this a spot where I, being a fairly competent metal worker, could remove 
more material without lingering fear of catastrophic failure?? 
Thanks
-Kai
Brooklyn NY

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[RBW] Experience with mini "half clips" ?

[Jack B]

I mostly subscribe to the Riv theory about pedals, i.e. I ride flat pedals 
w/ street shoes for my daily rides.

My current setup has MKS Sylvan touring pedals, which I bought with the 
idea that I could add toeclips and straps for longer rides.

Well now I'm about to go on a longish ride for an s24o, and don't really 
want to mess with full clips and straps, but also think it might be nice to 
have some more leverage.

Anyone have success with these half-clips that MKS and VO offer?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=32040

Seems like a nice compromise, but I'm also skeptical about the 
effectiveness. Anyone have experience with these?

cheers,
Jack B.

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[RBW] Re: How to keep your bike from getting stolen.

[Will Ashe]

I had pitlocks on my bike for at least two years with no issues, but even if 
they needed replacing it would be worth it to only have to carry one
 u-lock. 

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[RBW] Re: 110 bcd Square Taper Cranksets – TA, Ritchey, XC Pro, more (cross-post)

[Mark Reimer]

Sent a PM about the Ritchey cranks

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 3:02:43 PM UTC-5, Greg J wrote:
>
> Sorry for the cross-post from the iBob list, but I think this should be of 
> interest to this group also
>
> I don’t know how I accumulated these over the years, but I don’t see that 
> I will use them anytime soon, so they’re up for grabs.
>
> TA Carmina (172.5) – 48/38 “Zephyr” matched rings in very good (7.5/10) 
> condition. I also have 2x 34T rings, but they are black and called 
> “Syrius.” According to Peter White, the 34T should mix n match with the 
> Zephyr 48T. $100 shipped with 48/38. If you want the 34T, add $25 for the 
> one with less use, or $15 for the more used one.
>
> Sugino Alpina (170) – 48/34 matched rings in very good condition (8.5/10). 
> Also known as the Cospea, I think. Shows some use, but still very nice. $90 
> shipped.
>
> Ritchey Logic (175) – arms and crank bolts/spacers and 24T only. The logos 
> still look good (6.5/10). $55 shipped.
>
> Suntour XC Pro (175) – currently set up as 50/38 (Specialized and Sugino 
> rings) but is drilled for a 74bcd triple inner. In good condition (5/10). 
> $50 shipped.
>
> Shimano Deore (170) triple – 46/36/24 rings. This is the MT80 model, in 
> good condition, with lots of life left (5/10). $40 shipped.
>
> Detailed pics can be found here: 
> http://s102.photobucket.com/user/gregkjung/library/110%20bcd%20Cranksets%20for%20Sale
>
> I also have lots of square taper bb's (Phils, Ritchey, UN-xx), but I need 
> to take inventory first.
>
> thanks, Greg
> Oakland, CA
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Patrick Moore]

28.2 cm is a wee bit over 11 inches, so good -- nice to know that the
Matthews has Rivendell-levels of bb drop; or rather, that I'm not losing
anything in the Matthews to the Atlantis in *this* regard.

Rivs, as I've said before, are my bike handling/fitting/feeling benchmarks.

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 8:00 AM, Matt B.  wrote:

> I think the BB drop is 8 cm, so it oughta be in the neighborhood of (62.2
> / 2) x (2.54 x 2) - 8 ~= 28.2 cm.
>
>
> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 9:10:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires
>> on it?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Bill Lindsay]

What *should *it be:  

622 rim + 51mm tire should be (622 + 51 + 51)/2 = 724mm or 28.5 inches

I measured my Atlantis, axle center to ground, and it was 14-1/4 inches. 
 Good so far...

Wheel radius - BB drop = bb height
(724/2) - 80 = 282mm or 11.1 inches

I measured 11-1/4 inches.  Close enough?  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 6:10:27 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires 
> on it?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Mark Reimer]

My 2.1 Thunder Burts do not fit in Zeppelin fenders. I'm running the tires
on Velocity Dyad rims. It's close, but no cigar. Even if it did work, I'd
have maybe a millimeter or two of clearance! Not enough for me.

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 9:05 AM, Matt B.  wrote:

> Sorry typo that should be (62.2 / 2) *+ (*2.54 x 2) - 8
>
>
>
> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 10:01:00 AM UTC-4, Matt B. wrote:
>>
>> I think the BB drop is 8 cm, so it oughta be in the neighborhood of (62.2
>> / 2) x (2.54 x 2) - 8 ~= 28.2 cm.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 9:10:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires
>>> on it?
>>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: Seeking advice: How to clean bartape off my Albatross bars

[GAJett]

Hellishly dangerous though!  Don't use near an open flame, like a gas-fired 
water heater. A friend spilled some once, the pilot light ignited it and 
burned down his parent's house.  Use outside and use solvent resistant 
gloves if you go this way.  Other options above, Goo-gone, Citri-solve, 
considerably safer. 

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 7:18:10 PM UTC-7, bing.grosbeak wrote:
>
> Naptha / white gas / camp fuel / "coleman fuel" is a miracle-worker for 
> removing adhesive residue.  I've found that most other solvents just 
> require more elbow grease.  It's also pretty safe on paints and plastics, 
> so a good alternative to harsher solvents when you have to clean sticky 
> stuff off of those types of surfaces.
>
> -a
>
> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 7:52:13 AM UTC-7, Rob H. wrote:
>>
>> I've had this beat up set of Alba bars for a while, don't quite remember 
>> if they're the CrMo or Aluminum bars. At any rate, I've got tape on it from 
>> levers all the way to the center clamp. Now I've decided to put them on a 
>> new Clementine and want to change out the stem.
>>
>> Any pointers on how to clean off all the bar tape gunk that will be there?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Matt B.]

Sorry typo that should be (62.2 / 2) *+ (*2.54 x 2) - 8


On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 10:01:00 AM UTC-4, Matt B. wrote:
>
> I think the BB drop is 8 cm, so it oughta be in the neighborhood of (62.2 
> / 2) x (2.54 x 2) - 8 ~= 28.2 cm.
>
>
> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 9:10:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires 
>> on it?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Matt B.]

I think the BB drop is 8 cm, so it oughta be in the neighborhood of (62.2 / 
2) x (2.54 x 2) - 8 ~= 28.2 cm.


On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 9:10:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires 
> on it?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Santa Fe (half) century?

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks for the replies. I was planning to join the group -- just picked up
the S3X wheel for the '99 Joe yesterday -- but discovered that the group is
going up the night before and I can't leave my now 2 dogs alone for 24
hours (second dog just joined the pack Wednesday evening).

Next year for sure. And I'll have time to get the S3X properly set up.

On Tue, May 17, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Ryan Fleming 
wrote:

> FWIW from a flatlander from the windy prairies, given that you still ride
> fixed a lot and you have some gears to play with , you might be tired but
> you'll probably be OK I suspect. It sounds like you're very consistent and
> that's the key. I think the rule of thumb is if you can do at least 60% of
> the distance you'll be fine
>
> On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 3:19:52 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone onlist done the half century? If so, can you tell me how steep
>> and how difficult it is? I am just *thinking* that I might try it this
>> Sunday.
>>
>> 10 years ago, 50 hilly miles on a 75" fixed gear wasn't that big of a
>> deal, but I've not done more than 20-30 mile rides for a long while, and I
>> was rather slack about riding in April. And, I'm 61 -- not that much older
>> riders can't do much more than this, but I'm not particularly strong.
>>
>> If I do try it, I'll have the new S3X hub, geared either:
>>
>> 46X15: 76/57/48
>> 46X16: 71/53/44
>> 46X17: 67/50/42.
>>
>> I'm tempted to use the 46X16. One thing that I can do is climb in highish
>> gears; that's not a problem. What worries me is the fatigue after about
>> 30-35 miles.
>>
>> Comments?
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who had to "warm up" today with 4 miles east in a 70" gear
>> against an E wind gusting to 35, in otherwise pleasant ABQ, NM.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
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>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>> *
>> ***
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
>> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
>> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>>
>> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>>
>> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>>
>>
>> --
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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Re: [RBW] FS: Blue MUSA Pants - Medium

[Patrick Moore]

Michael: please report on the Compass knickers. I'm interested in a pair,
but I wonder if they'll be too light for cold weather use. I do wear tights
when the temperatures get below freezing, but I prefer dealing with just a
single layer in cool but over-freezing temps.

Let us know how the material is, and whether you think it would work over
boxers on a 40*F morning. (All other Compass knicker users, chime in, too.)

The inexpensive Rock Bros cycling pants I bought on Amazon last winter are
quite thin, but good enough *seul* down to the upper 30s. If the Compass
material is at least as thick, it would be viable for my uses.

Thanks, Patrick

On Thu, May 19, 2016 at 10:22 AM, Michael Ullmer  wrote:

> I've got an older pair of blue MUSA pants in medium. These are slightly
> shorter and slimmer than a pair MUSA pants I bought new from Riv about a
> year ago.
>
> Waist buckle works fine as well as the zippers at the bottom of the pant
> legs.
>
> I'm hoping to try a pair of those Compass knickers and am selling these to
> fund the purchase.
>
> Link to pictures here: https://goo.gl/photos/ymPC79a5Tgrfxn3h8
>
> $40 shipped CONUS
>
> PM me off-list, thanks!
>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Patrick Moore]

I'd ride it. Curious: what is the bb height of an Atlantis with 2" tires on
it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: How to keep your bike from getting stolen.

[Patrick Moore]

FWIW, mere allen-key skewers, which I use with vertical dropouts (they
don't clamp strongly enough for horizontals, at least with a fixed wheel)
may provide a bit of deterrence, simply because they lack the opening
lever. At any rate, I've never had a wheel stolen, even at the university.

I find that, after several years the allen heads (stainless steel bolts) do
enlarge a bit.

On Thu, May 19, 2016 at 10:00 AM, John Phillips 
wrote:

> I found a column in an online bike rag yesterday, can't remember where, in
> which the columnist said Pitlock wheel skewers will eventually strip and
> need replacement.
>
> This guy said his lasted three years before needing to be replaced.
>
> Has anyone here had any experiences with Pitlock skewers wearing out? Does
> anyone replace theirs on a regular basis?
>
> Or has anyone had trouble getting the seatpost pitlock tight enough to
> keep your seatpost from slipping?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John
>
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Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] Re: I'm in on the Fat-Lantis club

[Jeffrey Marco]

Good to know! I've heard great things about Thunder Burt's. I've been 
contemplating getting a pair, but haven't pulled the trigger thinking they 
wouldn't fit under my fenders. Time to go tire shopping.

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 10:09:27 PM UTC-4, Keith Muller wrote:
>
> 1.95 renegades and 2.1 thunder berts fit in VO zeplin fenders.  Those 
> tires actually measure out the same width mounted on the same rim.
>
> Keith
>

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