[RBW] Re: FS: Bruce Gordon Racks

[drew]

No. sorry. i realize the back is a bit of a gamble, and I tried to set the 
price to reflect that. I may lower the price if it doesn't seem like anyone 
wants to take that risk of it fitting, but I've got a few interested parties 
right now. 

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[William Graves]

I have been very happy with my VP-565s, which I run on my LHT.  I wear them 
with my size 11 Tevas or my 11.5W Lowa Renegade hiking shoes.  They cost 
around $25.

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 11:07:36 AM UTC-4, Austin B wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a recommendation for a decent quality, inexpensive (<$40), 
> large platform pedal for my Sam Hillborne. 
>
> I currently run Shimano XT SPD's on my Sam Hillborne but want platform 
> pedals as I'm planning to do some rides along the C canal and fishing the 
> Potomac. For this, I'd like to wear my Keen sandals for biking and fishing.
>
> Now, Keens are known for being quite wide, and at size 12 shoes, I'm 
> taking that to a bit of an extreme. Hence the size of the platforms being 
> wide enough for my shoes is the most important criteria. Smaller, cheap 
> platforms won't work as it always feels like the outside of my feet are 
> unsupported.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> Austin
>

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[RBW] Re: FEELER! 58cm appaloosa frame and fork

[Singlespeed Johnny]

On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 at 10:18:28 AM UTC-5, Singlespeed Johnny wrote:
> hey everyone. i've got a used but not abused butterscotch appaloosa frame in 
> size 58 up for grabs. looking for $1,000 for frame / fork / headset / thomson 
> post 
> this is a feeler...looking to see if i get any interest90% sure i wanna 
> sell...
> pics are on my instgram
> @meaty_urologist
> 
> thanks!
> johnny

bump...! any interest..?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bruce Gordon Racks

[Singlespeed Johnny]

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 8:26:54 PM UTC-5, drew wrote:
> these came with, not on, a specialized expedition i recently bought (and im 
> supposed to be getting rid of bikes). condition is structurally great, 
> cosmetically decent. no dents or damage, but some of the paint has rubbed off 
> where things have been attached, as you'd expect. part of me wants to keep 
> them and have them powdercoated a different color, but i know i wont get 
> around to that. the rear upper struts are a bit baffling. i dont understand 
> how they adjust, and if they dont adjust, i dont understand why they arent 
> just brazed onto the rack. Also, with the rear, the dropout struts have a 
> little bendable adjustment, but i think this will work much easier on a bike 
> with 126-130mm rear spacing rather than 135. On the front, the distance from 
> the dropout mount to the midfork slot is 7.5-8.2 inches, depending on where 
> in the slot you mount. little adaptor plates can be bought to make most 
> midfork eyelets work.
> 
> 
> 
> 185$ shipped CONUS 
> 
> 
>   

would you sell the front separately?

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[RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[Nash Taylor]

I thought there were two cheviots.  One sold for slightly less than the other.  
What luck to see that first.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[Sky Coulter]

I was one of ghe watchers. Super tempting but i already have a clementine and 
was trying to down size. Still a twinge of regret that i didn't pull the 
trigger. Congrats to jeff on a super score.

Sky in new west

> On Jun 13, 2017, at 8:06 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was watching with envy as someone won a like-new 55cm Appaloosa frameset 
> for something like $800.  I'm pretty sure the seller is a poster here.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 9:08:54 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>> Sub $500!
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Rivendell-Cheviot-Size-60cm-INV-10938-/272715761665?ul_noapp=true=true=N1bLevdFe0X6QqsRnJ%252B%252BiyxzxMc%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Is there any effective protection for iPhone 6 glass?

[Patrick Moore]

Aha; thanks. One more reason to hold on to my 5 as long as I can, though
one condition of upgrading my daughter's 6 was that she pay (well, 2/3 or
so) for the glass repair so that I have a working 6 as a backup for myself.

On Tue, Jun 13, 2017 at 7:55 PM, Ray Varella 
wrote:

> Patrick,
>What makes the 6 and newer phones more fragile is the glass goes
> all the way to the edge of the phone and there is no protective frame
> border built in to the casing.
> It makes for a slimmer phone with larger screens but if the phone tops and
> lands on the edge, the glass breaks.
> I wouldn't expect that to change anytime soon.
>
> Ray
>
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[RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I was watching with envy as someone won a like-new 55cm Appaloosa frameset 
for something like $800.  I'm pretty sure the seller is a poster here.  




On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 9:08:54 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Sub $500!
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Rivendell-Cheviot-Size-60cm-INV-10938-/272715761665?ul_noapp=true=true=N1bLevdFe0X6QqsRnJ%252B%252BiyxzxMc%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
>

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[RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[drew]

Oh man. I'm happy you got it Jeff. That's good karma coming back to you.

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[RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[Bob Lovejoy]

I could be wrong on this, but Bicycle Blue Book may be the clearing house 
for bikes traded in under the following program:
http://www.bicycleretailer.com/retail-news/2017/06/12/bicycle-blue-books-trade-program-expands-performance-and-other-major#.WUCg8jOZO_s

I suppose it might be worth watching their listings, though it would hard 
to imagine a better deal than that Cheviot!

Congrats to the buyer for seeing, knowing and deciding quickly... 

Bob


On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 9:21:37 PM UTC-5, drew wrote:
>
> Goodness. I'm gonna hope that there is some mistake and that this isn't 
> real
>

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[RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[adam leibow]

congrats! I just bought a new cheviot frame for retail price.  ¯\_(ツ)_/¯  glad 
to help riv i guess

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 7:08:54 PM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Sub $500!
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Rivendell-Cheviot-Size-60cm-INV-10938-/272715761665?ul_noapp=true=true=N1bLevdFe0X6QqsRnJ%252B%252BiyxzxMc%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam 58cm with and without double top tube

[tc]

Alex, Patrick,
Thanks for your input.  I can see both arguments.  As for how much a frame 
flexes, I guess what seems good to some riders might not be appreciated by 
another rider, as always.  For example, take the Karate Monkey and the 
Ogre; they have the same frame geometry, but the Ogre is stiffer to haul 
more weight.  Those who like to tear up the trails like the more springy 
Monkey, and say the Ogre is OK, but too stiff for that purpose.  But add 50 
lbs to each bike and the Ogre wins.

On Sunday, June 4, 2017 at 11:56:20 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Just a note to Alex's judgment: I think one element of "better handling" 
> is the obviously very idiosyncratic taste and riding style of the rider. 
> Jan finds even modest weights in saddlebags and even rear panniers too 
> "waggy" for comfort; to me, even a fully loaded (35+ lb) Sackville Medium 
> or Camper or (presently) Large Saddlesack -- this last, but not the others, 
> partly supported by a seatpost-clamped rack -- doesn't sway enough to 
> annoy; even more for rear panniers; it's rather the bike itself that 
> determines how stable the rear load feels. And the most stable bike I've 
> owned in this regard was a very definitely single top tube early '70s 
> racing bike made from normal-diameter, lightweight -- lighter than my Riv 
> road customs! -- 531. Odd, but there you have it. 
>
> My own single tube 55 or 56 cm Sam handled heavy rear and light front 
> loads very well. (Until I put 50+ lbs in front panniers -- had lowrider 
> bosses added; then I could hardly steer it!)
>
> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 8:16 AM, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <
> 482...@gmail.com > wrote:
>
>> I've ridden both and have a 2tt Sam.  The 2tt rides better weighted. The 
>> second top tube prevents noodly-ness especially on trails when weighted.
>>
>> I think the idea was the Appaloosa could take over the need for a fully 
>> lugged import frame aimed at more trail worthiness.  The 1tt Sam could then 
>> retreat into a more parallel country bike spot alongside the Homer.
>>
>> Just speculating for the most part. The 2tt makes for an excellent all 
>> rounder especially if you enjoy light camping trips.
>>
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>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[sameness]

I did! Couldn't believe my eyes when I saw it. Still kinda can't.

It had only been up for about an hour, and had two watchers, so I pulled 
the PayPal trigger before the seller realized the very likely error of 
his/her ways.

If it's any consolation, I had to pay CA Sales Tax.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[drew]

Goodness. I'm gonna hope that there is some mistake and that this isn't real

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[RBW] Sold 60cm on eBay - real? Who bought?

[Belopsky]

Sub $500!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Rivendell-Cheviot-Size-60cm-INV-10938-/272715761665?ul_noapp=true=true=N1bLevdFe0X6QqsRnJ%252B%252BiyxzxMc%253D_cvip=true=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

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[RBW] WTB: 43T, 110 S!LVER chainring

[Ray Varella]

Rivendell has them on their site. 

Ray

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Is there any effective protection for iPhone 6 glass?

[Ray Varella]

Patrick,
   What makes the 6 and newer phones more fragile is the glass goes all the 
way to the edge of the phone and there is no protective frame border built in 
to the casing. 
It makes for a slimmer phone with larger screens but if the phone tops and 
lands on the edge, the glass breaks. 
I wouldn't expect that to change anytime soon. 

Ray

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[RBW] FS: S Coupled 700c Bilenky Tourer

[Eric Douglas]

 

Continuing my downsizing, I’m putting my S Coupled  700c Bilenky Tourer 
up for sale.  When I asked Stephen Bilenky to design it, I more or less 
wanted something with a similar ride as my Rivendell Atlantis, but with 
fillet brazing instead of ornate lugs,  curved seatstays for heel 
clearance, a bit more standover and S couplers.  It has served me well on 
some longish tours (3 weeks unsupported)  and many day rides. Stephen build 
it with his highest level of finish (“signature”) and the frame new would 
cost with couplers about $3800

 

There are no dents, dings or anything more than  a few 2-3 mm chips in the 
powdercoat.

 

The frame includes brazeons for 4 water bottle cages, front and rear racks 
and fenders,  as well as a pump peg and chain hanger.

 

Chris King headset installed.

 

Some measurements:

 

Clearance for  true 45mm tires plus fenders.

72 degree seat tube and head tube angles.

BB Drop 80mm

Seat Tube c-c 53cm

Top tube c-c 57cm

Chainstays: 45.5 cm

26.8 seatpost (included)

 

For fit reference: I’m 5’ 11”,  and have a 84cm PBH. 

 

Photos  at:

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147685640@N03/albums/72157682028249332

 

I also have enough parts to fully build up the bike.

 

Please feel free to ask questions, make suggestions, etc.

 

Asking 1400 and open to offers.

 

Eric Douglas in hot and humid Brooklyn.

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Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?

[Patrick Moore]

Oh, for what it's worth, I find 28-30 mm tires(if they are light and
supple) to be the sweet spot for rougher pavement and for mostly pavement
with a bit of firm dirt and gravel; this for 700C and 559. For smooth
pavement only, I'd say 26 - 28 is a sweet spot. I certainly wouldn't choose
35+ for smooth paved roads, and I'd prefer 38+ for dirt, and at least 50
for our sandy dirt; but for sand, I find that bigger wheels roll over it
better and can get by with slightly narrower tires and higher pressures.

On Tue, Jun 13, 2017 at 7:22 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I have to agree with Garth that "best width" for "this or that condition"
> is a pretty wide box. I don't agree that everything to do with wheel size
> and bike design is "subjective" -- meaning by this word "entirely based on
> an individual's particular likes and dislikes"; I do think that there are
> real parameters. Still, first: taste plays a huge role; what is "better"
> for me may not be "better" for you; and second: bike design makes a huge
> difference. One little example: my first, early 1995 26 wheel road custom
> felt best  -- to me -- with 30+ mm tires; put on 22s and it was a wee bit
> too twitchy -- not horrible, but still so.
>
> When I had my 2 later ones made, I told Grant about this, and he
> questioned me closely about the smallest tire I'd use on it; I told him the
> 559 X 23 Turbos or Conti GPs and so on, 24" overall diameter. He so
> designed these 2 that they felt very stable with the skinnies, but not
> sluggish with the 32s.
>
> Perhaps a low trail geometry is more sensitive to wheel size and weight; I
> don't know. I certainly do find a 26er with light wheels more nimble than a
> Fargo with 800 gram rims and 800 gram tires. But the Fargo surprised me by
> how nimble it was on tightly winding singletrack (flat; I can handle flat
> singletrack; it's the steep, rutted stuff that I don't like), and I
> certainly don't feel constrained by the Matthews, with better geometry (for
> me) and much lighter wheels, even if its pavement handling is not up to
> Riv's pavement handling qualities.
>
> On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 4:40 PM, panog  wrote:
>
>> @Patrick Moore
>>
>> Patrick, I dont have any readily recalled studies on the subject to
>> quote. I have consistently seen 32mm tires to be referred to as the optimum
>> combination between comfort, speed and responsiveness for 700c rims and
>> road geometry and 38mm tires for 650B rims. A few years ago I had a lengthy
>> discussion on the subject with Mike Kone of Boulder Bicycle on the subject
>> with the same conclusion. I also see most builders staying around the 32mm
>> tire size for their sportier road frames. The Rivendell Roadeo follows the
>> same principles with the 33mm JBs in contrast to the rest of the Riv line.
>> I recall BQ having published the results of one of JH's tests on How Wide
>> is Wide Enough (paraphrasing here!); I'm not quite sure but if I recall
>> correctly above 32mm there were diminishing returns when on smooth roads (I
>> hope I'm not misquoting this; I will try to find the edition when I have
>> some time) as inflation pressure is reduced as the tire size (width)
>> increases.
>> My personal observations and resulting preferences are 28-32mm on my
>> go-fast bikes, 35 on my go-nice and 50+ on my go-over everything and
>> anything, all 700c wheels with 17c rims.
>>
>> Pano
>>
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[RBW] FS: Bruce Gordon Racks

[drew]

these came with, not on, a specialized expedition i recently bought (and im 
supposed to be getting rid of bikes). condition is structurally great, 
cosmetically decent. no dents or damage, but some of the paint has rubbed 
off where things have been attached, as you'd expect. part of me wants to 
keep them and have them powdercoated a different color, but i know i wont 
get around to that. the rear upper struts are a bit baffling. i dont 
understand how they adjust, and if they dont adjust, i dont understand why 
they arent just brazed onto the rack. Also, with the rear, the dropout 
struts have a little bendable adjustment, but i think this will work much 
easier on a bike with 126-130mm rear spacing rather than 135. On the front, 
the distance from the dropout mount to the midfork slot is 7.5-8.2 inches, 
depending on where in the slot you mount. little adaptor plates can be 
bought to make most midfork eyelets work.


185$ shipped CONUS 


  

 

 

 

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Re: [RBW] Second (lighter) wheelset for my Atlantis?

[Patrick Moore]

I have to agree with Garth that "best width" for "this or that condition"
is a pretty wide box. I don't agree that everything to do with wheel size
and bike design is "subjective" -- meaning by this word "entirely based on
an individual's particular likes and dislikes"; I do think that there are
real parameters. Still, first: taste plays a huge role; what is "better"
for me may not be "better" for you; and second: bike design makes a huge
difference. One little example: my first, early 1995 26 wheel road custom
felt best  -- to me -- with 30+ mm tires; put on 22s and it was a wee bit
too twitchy -- not horrible, but still so.

When I had my 2 later ones made, I told Grant about this, and he questioned
me closely about the smallest tire I'd use on it; I told him the 559 X 23
Turbos or Conti GPs and so on, 24" overall diameter. He so designed these 2
that they felt very stable with the skinnies, but not sluggish with the 32s.

Perhaps a low trail geometry is more sensitive to wheel size and weight; I
don't know. I certainly do find a 26er with light wheels more nimble than a
Fargo with 800 gram rims and 800 gram tires. But the Fargo surprised me by
how nimble it was on tightly winding singletrack (flat; I can handle flat
singletrack; it's the steep, rutted stuff that I don't like), and I
certainly don't feel constrained by the Matthews, with better geometry (for
me) and much lighter wheels, even if its pavement handling is not up to
Riv's pavement handling qualities.

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 4:40 PM, panog  wrote:

> @Patrick Moore
>
> Patrick, I dont have any readily recalled studies on the subject to quote.
> I have consistently seen 32mm tires to be referred to as the optimum
> combination between comfort, speed and responsiveness for 700c rims and
> road geometry and 38mm tires for 650B rims. A few years ago I had a lengthy
> discussion on the subject with Mike Kone of Boulder Bicycle on the subject
> with the same conclusion. I also see most builders staying around the 32mm
> tire size for their sportier road frames. The Rivendell Roadeo follows the
> same principles with the 33mm JBs in contrast to the rest of the Riv line.
> I recall BQ having published the results of one of JH's tests on How Wide
> is Wide Enough (paraphrasing here!); I'm not quite sure but if I recall
> correctly above 32mm there were diminishing returns when on smooth roads (I
> hope I'm not misquoting this; I will try to find the edition when I have
> some time) as inflation pressure is reduced as the tire size (width)
> increases.
> My personal observations and resulting preferences are 28-32mm on my
> go-fast bikes, 35 on my go-nice and 50+ on my go-over everything and
> anything, all 700c wheels with 17c rims.
>
> Pano
>
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[RBW] Re: Giving up on my Cambium C17

[Broccoli Cog]

Thanks Joe. Good point and yes I am considered a B17 or other Brooks 
leather model. I am also considering a SA or a Rivet Diablo.

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 8:45:14 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Did you try these after giving up on leather saddles? I ask because I can 
> only ride B17. I tried a C17 for a month to take advantage of the longer 
> rails, lighter weight and weatherproofness, but it was a torture rack. Back 
> to leather for me. 

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[RBW] WTB: 43T, 110 S!LVER chainring

[GAJett]

Peter White handles TA Carmina/Zephyr chainrings in odd-tooth counts. A 
significant variety are available. 

TA is about the last maker for such rings. (Just wish they still made 
odd-toothed Cyclotourist rings.)
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Comic Relief: CLOSE-RANGE crankset

[GAJett]

Amen to that. We can all find what works for us. 
BTW, I love the way Steve set the gearing on his two smallest cogs. Brilliant! 
Something I will keep in mind going forward. 
Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Is there any effective protection for iPhone 6 glass?

[Patrick Moore]

FWIW, I've dropped my 5, 4, and 3 many times, and never broken anything. I
gather that the 6 is far more fragile.

What about the 7? We may upgrade my daughter's 6 before the end of the year.

On Tue, Jun 13, 2017 at 5:56 PM, David Person  wrote:

> I've used an Otterbox on my 5s, but switched last year to a Spygen Tough
> Armor case with the addition of a tempered glass screen protector.  I love
> the Spygen case.  Much sleeker than the Otterbox, yet provides excellent
> protection.
>
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Re: [RBW] OT: Is there any effective protection for iPhone 6 glass?

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, all. Someone gave my daughter the name of a local Apple tech whom I
met and who impressed me with his knowledge. He replaced the glass ($79)
and sold me for $25 a case and stick-on glass that, he said, was not as
good as the Otterbox Defender, but which works well and which is much
cheaper.

I had told my daughter about the Defender (apparently it's far better than
the second and third tier Otterbox models), but she objected to the bulk.
This new case + glass is far less bulky.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56cm Sam Hillborne double top tube

[drew]

here are some more photos, and some of the dent in the least flattering 
lighting i could find. otherwise its nearly impossible to take a photo of. 

 

 

 

 

  


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[RBW] Re: Giving up on my Cambium C17

[Deacon Patrick]

Several thoughts:

-- Rivet saddles are great! I love my Diablo, but it is very narrow and 
likely too narrow for Albatross bars? Also Rivet has a 1 year love it 
guarantee, refund or exchange. Great to work with.
-- Next on my list to try when I was in your same dilemma was the Berthoud 
Aspin, but I loved my Rivet so went no further.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 6:25:03 PM UTC-6, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> Hi Dave. Actually know I'm not sure. I thought I would give it a try 
> though. I am also considering a Rivet Diablo or a SA. Maybe even a leather 
> Brooks. At this point I am trying not to waste money on a saddle I can't 
> live with. It's such a dilemma we cyclist face. I may have to just suck it 
> up and buy something but I wanted to check here first. 
>
> On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 8:01:59 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>>
>> I have a Cambium on my commuter but don't find it as comfortable as a 
>> Brooks B-17 or a Berthoud Aspin or Mente.  The Cambium feels harder--not 
>> comfortably so--but I like the weatherproofness of it so give up a little 
>> comfort for that quality since the distance isn't daunting.  
>>
>> Are you sure the saddle width is the issue?
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Giving up on my Cambium C17

[Jeff Lesperance]

I can use B17 saddles on upright-ish bikes, but sitbones want a B17n
(narrow) on drop bar/leaned over riding. In the interest of
water-proofiness, I tried the in-between width of the C17 - it was good,
but long distance riding aggravated bits of the undercarriage other than
the sit bones. I then tried a C17 carved and found nirvana on a saddle.

I said all that to say... if it's truly a sit bones problem, than narrower
or wider may do the trick, but, if it possibly a slightly different
undercarriage problem, maybe the carved/slotted C17 is the trick.


On Tue, Jun 13, 2017 at 8:45 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Did you try these after giving up on leather saddles? I ask because I can
> only ride B17. I tried a C17 for a month to take advantage of the longer
> rails, lighter weight and weatherproofness, but it was a torture rack. Back
> to leather for me.
>
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[RBW] Re: HHH frame just arrived

[Julian Westerhout]

Play with it a bit tonight, take some photos, look at them on the plane, 
and drift off dreaming of HHH rides to come. Have fun! 

Julian Westerhout
Bloomington, IL 

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 4:26:52 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> So my small orange HHH frame just arrived. Actually I haven't had time to 
> open the box yet to verify that it is a small orange HHH. I am still at 
> work. I have to leave for the airport for the west coast at 5:40 AM 
> tomorrow. I will not be back until July 7. Talk about frustrating! I will 
> have time to open the box are verify the contents and that is about it. 
> Maybe put the rear wheel on to see how the  2.4" tire looks in the 
> frame maybe I can just sleep on the plane
>

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[RBW] Giving up on my Cambium C17

[Joe Bernard]

Did you try these after giving up on leather saddles? I ask because I can only 
ride B17. I tried a C17 for a month to take advantage of the longer rails, 
lighter weight and weatherproofness, but it was a torture rack. Back to leather 
for me. 

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[RBW] Re: Giving up on my Cambium C17

[Broccoli Cog]

Hi Dave. Actually know I'm not sure. I thought I would give it a try 
though. I am also considering a Rivet Diablo or a SA. Maybe even a leather 
Brooks. At this point I am trying not to waste money on a saddle I can't 
live with. It's such a dilemma we cyclist face. I may have to just suck it 
up and buy something but I wanted to check here first. 

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 8:01:59 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> I have a Cambium on my commuter but don't find it as comfortable as a 
> Brooks B-17 or a Berthoud Aspin or Mente.  The Cambium feels harder--not 
> comfortably so--but I like the weatherproofness of it so give up a little 
> comfort for that quality since the distance isn't daunting.  
>
> Are you sure the saddle width is the issue?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Giving up on my Cambium C17

['Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have a Cambium on my commuter but don't find it as comfortable as a 
Brooks B-17 or a Berthoud Aspin or Mente.  The Cambium feels harder--not 
comfortably so--but I like the weatherproofness of it so give up a little 
comfort for that quality since the distance isn't daunting.  

Are you sure the saddle width is the issue?


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[RBW] Re: OT: Is there any effective protection for iPhone 6 glass?

[David Person]

I've used an Otterbox on my 5s, but switched last year to a Spygen Tough 
Armor case with the addition of a tempered glass screen protector.  I love 
the Spygen case.  Much sleeker than the Otterbox, yet provides excellent 
protection.

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[David Person]

Another vote for VP Vice.

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[RBW] Giving up on my Cambium C17

[Broccoli Cog]

As I continue on my quest to find relative comfort on my Sam I think I am 
well on my way wth a successful switch to the Albatross bars. What lies 
ahead is the need to address my saddle discomfort. I have two Brooks 
Cambium C17's. One on a Surly ICT and the other is on my Sam. I have ridden 
the saddles for 8 months and I have decided to give up on making them work. 
I feel that I am close to being comfortable with the C17. I have tried both 
with padded shorts and without. For rides up to an hour the saddle is ok. 
Anything longer than that my sits bone start to really hurt. From past 
experience with padded saddles I know that narrower is better for me so 
that is what is leading me to the C15.   

Is there anyone who has a Cambium C15, either slotted or regular that you 
would be willing to let me borrow for a couple of weeks? I pay for shipping 
both ways and you would have my absolute word that I would return it to 
you. If so I would be forever grateful. I also would be willing to offer 
one of my C17 as a trade if this would be something that would interest 
anyone. Please contact me off list if this is something that you are 
willing to do. 

Tim 

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[RBW] HHH frame just arrived

[Ray Varella]

Sleep on the plane.
As for the 2.4" tires, if you are referring to the Super Motos that you 
suggested to me, they look like a big fat road racing motorcycle tire with 
plenty of clearance. 
Those tires were made for these frames and should eat up just about any surface 
you run them on. 

Ray

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[RBW] Re: Upright Bars

[RichS]

Ha, Ha, indeed. I'm betting that's a security person on a bike right behind 
him. You can see an arm and a bit of the bike.

Regards,
Richard

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[RBW] Re: Does anybody ride 75+ km with non-drop-bar handlebars?

[Ash A]

Btw, if someone of same height as me, but lower PBH were to use my bike, I 
think Albatross bar would work better. 



On Tuesday, 13 June 2017 16:04:25 UTC-7, Ash A wrote:
>
>
> In last 1 year I have done several 23 mile one-way commute rides on bikes 
> with drop bars. After every ride I *minor* pain and discomfort in various 
> areas of arms, shoulder, neck and upper back.  I keep finding ways to raise 
> the handlebar.  I was able to reduce the  discomfort by about 50%.  I've 
> done the same ride about a dozen or so times on Appaloosa with Choco-norm 
> bar ( and much thicker tires).  It takes about 5-10 minutes longer, but I 
> hardly feel any of those issues.  Feels like I could keep going for 3 more 
> hours.  I stay on grips (ergon) 70% of the times.  Use the corners while 
> climbing or feel like sprinting for a little while.  When Choco-Norm is 
> mounted upside down (like this 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/products/hb3b-2_1024x1024.jpg?v=1471030606),
>  
> the corners provide amazingly ergonomic position for forearms and wrists.
>
> Like others mentioned, the right handlebar would largely depend on the 
> frame design/size and rider's body design (long legs vs long torso, long 
> arms vs short).  The goal would be to keep lower back, shoulders, neck, 
> elbows and wrists in as a natural position as possible and as relaxed as 
> possible.  This is the key to minimizing biking related wear and tear to 
> the body (and being able to see the world around and enjoy the ride), IMO.
>
>
>
> On Friday, 2 June 2017 09:16:50 UTC-7, Peter Turskovitch wrote:
>>
>> Hi everybody, 
>>
>> I've heard that this is the place to come for advice about "alternative" 
>> handlebars. Can anybody recommend a bar for long rides? My problem these 
>> days is that I'm pulling a kid trailer and lowering my pace to ride with a 
>> new-to-cycling spouse. These factors have reduced my pressure on the 
>> pedals, so to speak, and left my torso less supported by my core. My hands 
>> are sore! All the same, we're still riding 75 - 100km at a time, so I need 
>> something with multiple positions for the long haul. 
>>
>> Everybody's bodies and needs are different, and what works for one may 
>> not work for another, but I would be very interested in hearing some 
>> perspectives!
>>
>> Peter 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Does anybody ride 75+ km with non-drop-bar handlebars?

[Ash A]

In last 1 year I have done several 23 mile one-way commute rides on bikes 
with drop bars. After every ride I *minor* pain and discomfort in various 
areas of arms, shoulder, neck and upper back.  I keep finding ways to raise 
the handlebar.  I was able to reduce the  discomfort by about 50%.  I've 
done the same ride about a dozen or so times on Appaloosa with Choco-norm 
bar ( and much thicker tires).  It takes about 5-10 minutes longer, but I 
hardly feel any of those issues.  Feels like I could keep going for 3 more 
hours.  I stay on grips (ergon) 70% of the times.  Use the corners while 
climbing or feel like sprinting for a little while.  When Choco-Norm is 
mounted upside down (like 
this 
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/products/hb3b-2_1024x1024.jpg?v=1471030606),
 
the corners provide amazingly ergonomic position for forearms and wrists.

Like others mentioned, the right handlebar would largely depend on the 
frame design/size and rider's body design (long legs vs long torso, long 
arms vs short).  The goal would be to keep lower back, shoulders, neck, 
elbows and wrists in as a natural position as possible and as relaxed as 
possible.  This is the key to minimizing biking related wear and tear to 
the body (and being able to see the world around and enjoy the ride), IMO.



On Friday, 2 June 2017 09:16:50 UTC-7, Peter Turskovitch wrote:
>
> Hi everybody, 
>
> I've heard that this is the place to come for advice about "alternative" 
> handlebars. Can anybody recommend a bar for long rides? My problem these 
> days is that I'm pulling a kid trailer and lowering my pace to ride with a 
> new-to-cycling spouse. These factors have reduced my pressure on the 
> pedals, so to speak, and left my torso less supported by my core. My hands 
> are sore! All the same, we're still riding 75 - 100km at a time, so I need 
> something with multiple positions for the long haul. 
>
> Everybody's bodies and needs are different, and what works for one may not 
> work for another, but I would be very interested in hearing some 
> perspectives!
>
> Peter 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why'd me tire blow?

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Steve. However, don't confuse laughing at myself with being hard on 
myself. Life with a bludgeoned brain looks different, and for me it 
includes repeatedly "learning" the same indelible lessons because I forget 
the details. All part of the adventure! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 3:17:45 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Don't be so hard on yourself: none of us learned about this from a book, 
> we took the same self-taught hands-on seminar you just did.  Welcome to the 
> ranks of the Experienced.  I'll bet you never do that again...
> :-)
>
> On 06/13/2017 09:41 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> My amateur attempt at forensic analysis of the carnage yielded the 
> following results: the moron inflating the tire neglected to even visually 
> check for a bulge as he inflated the tire, for the blow out was at the 
> valve stem and by all appearances the tire bead was not set and would have 
> been bulging. Tube replaced, tires properly inflated, and bead all properly 
> set. Hopefully the moron has learned something and will retain it! Sardonic 
> grin. Thank you all for your forensic expertise from afar! 
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
>>
>> I was just inflating a tube with 3-4 patches in it on my newly 
>> reinstalled 2.1” Racing Ralphs. Pressure reached 30psi. BOOM! (I need at 
>> least a day for my brain to recover now.). 
>>
>> I’m thinking I must have pinched the tube into the bead, though how I 
>> don’t know as the tube was partially inflated when I installed the tire. 
>> Ideas? Thoughts? I’d like to avoid this in future.
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: IRD Defiant Compact Road Double Cranks

[Gideon Tsang]

These are still available. Correction, 170mm, not the originally stated 
172.5 mm.

On Monday, May 29, 2017 at 10:09:05 PM UTC-5, Gideon Tsang wrote:
>
> 170 mm. Just a little too long of me. Like new.
>

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[RBW] HHH frame just arrived

[lconley]

So my small orange HHH frame just arrived. Actually I haven't had time to 
open the box yet to verify that it is a small orange HHH. I am still at 
work. I have to leave for the airport for the west coast at 5:40 AM 
tomorrow. I will not be back until July 7. Talk about frustrating! I will 
have time to open the box are verify the contents and that is about it. 
Maybe put the rear wheel on to see how the  2.4" tire looks in the 
frame maybe I can just sleep on the plane

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why'd me tire blow?

[Steve Palincsar]

Don't be so hard on yourself: none of us learned about this from a book, 
we took the same self-taught hands-on seminar you just did.  Welcome to 
the ranks of the Experienced.  I'll bet you never do that again...


:-)

On 06/13/2017 09:41 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
My amateur attempt at forensic analysis of the carnage yielded the 
following results: the moron inflating the tire neglected to even 
visually check for a bulge as he inflated the tire, for the blow out 
was at the valve stem and by all appearances the tire bead was not set 
and would have been bulging. Tube replaced, tires properly inflated, 
and bead all properly set. Hopefully the moron has learned something 
and will retain it! Sardonic grin. Thank you all for your forensic 
expertise from afar!


With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

I was just inflating a tube with 3-4 patches in it on my newly
reinstalled 2.1” Racing Ralphs. Pressure reached 30psi. BOOM! (I
need at least a day for my brain to recover now.).

I’m thinking I must have pinched the tube into the bead, though
how I don’t know as the tube was partially inflated when I
installed the tire. Ideas? Thoughts? I’d like to avoid this in future.



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Re: [Ext] [RBW] Re: New Riv Model - Newsletter

[EasyRider]

For me, the main appeal of the mountain mixte is that it fits a variety of 
riders. With an ~80cm PBH, I'm in between a small and medium on many Riv 
models. If I were to go small on a Joe or under 50 on a Hunqapillar, I'd be 
too cramped to use swept bars, even with a 130mm stem. But if I were go up 
a size, then standover starts to be a problem. Lots of great 650b tire 
choices, fewer in 26". The mixte also appeals for child seats -- no kicking 
the little ones as you swing a leg over the bike. I also like the 
skepticism it, and the Bubbe project in general, elicits. It's a selling 
point for me :)

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 5:38:23 AM UTC-4, Les Lammers wrote:
>
>
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 6:20:51 PM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Bill - how many rivendell's do you own now?!?! Can I have a couple ;)
>>
>> *I don't get the appeal of the upright mountain mixte.* I guess it 
>> doesn't have to be upright, but they usually seem to be setup w/ albatross 
>> bars. To be honest though, I don't see the appeal of upright bars for 
>> anything other than a bike used to go a few miles here and there for 
>> commuting/errands/all rounder type stuff. Anything else (long road rides, 
>> trail rides, mixed rides, etc) I want something more aggressive 
>> (drops/albastache/riser/etc). What's the appeal of an upright mountain 
>> mixte? Is it just to have something different? Is it better/worse when 
>> things get real on the trails? I'm sure there's a lot of opinions here ;)
>>
>> The diagatube is great if you stop and start a lot and may save your 
>> jewels of rougher terrain. I don't have the mountain mixte but my Cheviot 
>> has map ahearne bars flipped and is quite comfortable. Upright but not too 
>> much so. My 2 cents.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 7:18:42 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>>>
>>> Congrats!
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jun 9, 2017, at 2:08 PM, Chris Birkenmaier  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Congratulations Bill!  I know you keep an inventory of spare parts.  Any 
>>> idea of the drivetrain or wheels you are planning for it?  I'm getting one 
>>> but haven't invested much time in thinking about the build.
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 2:58:49 PM UTC-4, Chris Birkenmaier wrote: 

 I'm kind of surprised that no one has mentioned the comment in the May 
 30 newsletter about not being able to get an orange Sam or a green/silver 
 Appaloosa for at least 648 days BUT that something in the middle might be 
 replacing them next year.  Having a bike between a Sam and a Joe seems to 
 be splitting a finer line but I'm stoked to see what they come with (or 
 maybe come up with).  I recently bought a silver 51 Joe and it has really 
 calmed down my bike buying desires because it is just so good.  I have a 
 Sam, Joe, Cheviot, San Marcos , Rosco Mountain Mixte on order and a 
 Quickbeam so I don't need another.  But I'm endlessly interested in what 
 they come up with.

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>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>> The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, 
>>> Meagher & Flom LLP ("Skadden") and is not performing legal service on 
>>> behalf of Skadden. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or 
>>> probonolaw.com domain names is in his/her personal capacity and not on 
>>> behalf of Skadden or its affiliates.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[EasyRider]

+1 for the VP Vice and VP-001s, but I prefer the Vices. The 001's have pins 
in the center of the pedal, and I like a slightly concave feel. 

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 2:37:09 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Daniel,
>
> The Aim's description says it is "dual concave." Does that mean it is 
> lower at the axel than at the front and back? If so, that limits foot 
> position to forefoot only, no mid-foot pedaling.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-6, Daniel M wrote:
>>
>> The VP Aim is my current favorite. I saw them for the first time at NAHBS 
>> in Sacramento last year and bought a pair a few weeks later at Sea Otter. I 
>> find then very aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. Simple, minimalist 
>> design, available in silver, and slight concavity that helps keep your foot 
>> in place along with the pins. I also like that the axle extends all the way 
>> to the edge of the pedal. I put a pair on my MB-1 and they go very nicely 
>> with the rest of the bike and I love the way they feel underfoot.  
>>
>> http://www.vp-usa.com/vp-aim/
>>
>> Daniel M
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Upright Bars

[Wayne Naha]

I'll bet that the cordon of French secret service vehicles will keep him 
safe from any traffic, at least.

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Deacon Patrick]

Daniel,

The Aim's description says it is "dual concave." Does that mean it is lower 
at the axel than at the front and back? If so, that limits foot position to 
forefoot only, no mid-foot pedaling.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-6, Daniel M wrote:
>
> The VP Aim is my current favorite. I saw them for the first time at NAHBS 
> in Sacramento last year and bought a pair a few weeks later at Sea Otter. I 
> find then very aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. Simple, minimalist 
> design, available in silver, and slight concavity that helps keep your foot 
> in place along with the pins. I also like that the axle extends all the way 
> to the edge of the pedal. I put a pair on my MB-1 and they go very nicely 
> with the rest of the bike and I love the way they feel underfoot.  
>
> http://www.vp-usa.com/vp-aim/
>
> Daniel M
> Berkeley, CA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike computer

[Ed Carolipio]

I have a Garmin 810 which I bought as my first GPS bike computer and now 
use habitually. It's definitely way more than I need. I use it as an 
independent measurement of speed and temperature, which come in handy on 
most rides, and the clock is useful to me as a commuter. I've experimented 
with the advanced features - turn-by-turn and real time tracking can be 
nice - but for most rides I don't bother since I could use that setup time 
to ride instead.

I like the Garmin since I can move it from bike to bike without having to 
futz with sensors and cables (and actually not having to futz with those 
things in general.) I don't want to mount my phone on the handlebar since I 
don't want to place it at risk, for obvious reasons. If I rode only one 
bike, I'd probably just use a traditional bike computer as well.


--Ed C.

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 10:55:28 AM UTC-7, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> What do you use for a bike computer if anything at all? In my past cycling 
> life I wouldn't think about leaving the house without my Garmin and a HRM. 
> These days more often than not I simply don't bother with the Garmin. I 
> must say it's pretty liberating. I've contemplated going back to a plain 
> old bike computer that is simple to use and just keeps track of time and 
> distance. Since I no longer have a desire to upload my rides online I 
> wonder if a simple computer is best or maybe I don't even need one at all? 
> Curious to know what other list members are doing.
>

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[RBW] WTB: 43T, 110 S!LVER chainring

[Wally Estrella]

Hi Folks:

Am looking for 43T, 110 S!LVER chain ring.  New, unused preferred, but open 
for light use.


Thanks,
Wally

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe G One

[Philip Williamson]

I rode the Big Ones a bit, and found they'd hook up very well on dirt. 
Still, it was dry, and I don't push it. At $20 each from Jenson, they're 
fairly cheap to try out. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 11:13:18 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>
> I currently have super motos, which are the predecessor to the g one, on 
> my clem, and also use it regularly on mild single track.  I've had no 
> issues with traction, but will admit that i don't push it as hard as i 
> might on my mountain bike.  Because of the low pressures for which the tire 
> is intended, it deforms and provides traction using surface area and gummy 
> rubber compound alone.  
>
> I am also intrigued by the surly extraterestrial, but don't think i could 
> use those and fenders at the same time, as i do now.
>

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[RBW] Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Daniel M]

The VP Aim is my current favorite. I saw them for the first time at NAHBS in 
Sacramento last year and bought a pair a few weeks later at Sea Otter. I find 
then very aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. Simple, minimalist design, 
available in silver, and slight concavity that helps keep your foot in place 
along with the pins. I also like that the axle extends all the way to the edge 
of the pedal. I put a pair on my MB-1 and they go very nicely with the rest of 
the bike and I love the way they feel underfoot.  

http://www.vp-usa.com/vp-aim/

Daniel M
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Eric Douglas]

I used to use VP Vice pedals  but switched to Fyxation Mesa's in nylon 
because they're much less likely to bloody my shins. No loss in grip as far 
as I can tell.


On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 12:14:39 PM UTC-4, Will Ashe wrote:
>
> +1 for VP Vice. 

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[RBW] Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Will Ashe]

+1 for VP Vice. 

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[RBW] Re: Bike computer

[Stuart Lovinggood]

I enjoy using a Pebble watch + MapMyRide or Strava. The watch automatically 
pairs with the apps and gives time/speed/distance data. Not always super 
convenient (or safe) to look at while moving, but also allows me to read 
text messages/notifications and keep my phone stashed away. With the same 
sentiment as some others on this thread, I'm really only interested in 
tracking my routes for record keeping and for curiosity and this setup 
worked great for that. 

Unfortunately, Pebble no longer exists as a company so software support is 
unclear into the future. My watch still works fine and you can pick one up 
for cheap from various online retailers. 

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 12:55:28 PM UTC-5, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> What do you use for a bike computer if anything at all? In my past cycling 
> life I wouldn't think about leaving the house without my Garmin and a HRM. 
> These days more often than not I simply don't bother with the Garmin. I 
> must say it's pretty liberating. I've contemplated going back to a plain 
> old bike computer that is simple to use and just keeps track of time and 
> distance. Since I no longer have a desire to upload my rides online I 
> wonder if a simple computer is best or maybe I don't even need one at all? 
> Curious to know what other list members are doing.

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[RBW] FS: NItto Albastache handlebar

[Ash A]

Taken. 

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[RBW] Re: Why'd me tire blow?

[Deacon Patrick]

My amateur attempt at forensic analysis of the carnage yielded the 
following results: the moron inflating the tire neglected to even visually 
check for a bulge as he inflated the tire, for the blow out was at the 
valve stem and by all appearances the tire bead was not set and would have 
been bulging. Tube replaced, tires properly inflated, and bead all properly 
set. Hopefully the moron has learned something and will retain it! Sardonic 
grin. Thank you all for your forensic expertise from afar!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I was just inflating a tube with 3-4 patches in it on my newly reinstalled 
> 2.1” Racing Ralphs. Pressure reached 30psi. BOOM! (I need at least a day 
> for my brain to recover now.).
>
> I’m thinking I must have pinched the tube into the bead, though how I 
> don’t know as the tube was partially inflated when I installed the tire. 
> Ideas? Thoughts? I’d like to avoid this in future.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike computer

[Tim Gavin]

I have a Rokform case

for my iPhone 6.  I'm pretty happy with it; it protects my phone from small
drops, and it has a metal back so it keeps the phone from bending when I
sit down with it in my pocket (broke my first iPhone6 that way, which was
in an otterbox case).
It has a twist-lock mount on the back of the case, and I got a matching mount
for the handlebar
.
It's a low-profile mount (doesn't take up much bar space) and it holds
pretty securely (it has a lock tab in addition to the 45-degree twist
required).

But, I still managed to break my phone with it!

I did a nice, uptempo ride on our regional bike path (Cedar Valley Nature
Trail
),
and I stopped for a quick break.  I took my phone off the handlebars to
check my speed thus far, but my hands were still tingly from the aggressive
ride that I dropped the phone right on the pavement when I unlocked it from
the bar mount!  D'oh!  It landed flat on its face and cracked the glass.

So, my takeaway is that even with a super secure case and mount, attaching
a phone to the handlebar is a dangerous proposition.  Trying to handle a
bike and phone at the same time--even while stopped--can be too much for a
klutz like me.

I am very happy with the Rokform pro case otherwise, though.  I added a
stick-on glass screen protector after that drop from my bars, and this
phone has survived since then.
Rokform's cases have a magnet just below the twist-lock; some of their
mounts use this magnet instead of or in addition to the twist-lock.
The magnet was strong enough to keep my phone stuck to the top of my
friend's pickup truck on a ~20 mile drive home from a float trip!  Did I
mention I'm calamity-prone?  But in this scenario, the phone actually
survived my negligence.  Nice case!

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 6:02 PM, REC  wrote:

> Thanks, Bill and Patrick.  That's what I thought...  I wanted to make sure
> I didn't miss anything.
>
> Bill, I also thought of needing an app called I-breadcrumbs, more for
> getting back out of a hiking trail--you know how they can branch off.
>
> Roberta
>
>
> On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 6:42:14 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Roberta
>>
>> I don't know if any of the apps spit out a reverse cue sheet based on
>> where you rode or give you turn by turn directions to take you home after
>> you've rambled yourself lost.  I would name the app "i-breadcrumbs".
>>
>> When I stop to look at the screen to find my way, I'm using the screen as
>> a paperless map, just like I would have done with a paper map.
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 3:29:00 PM UTC-7, REC wrote:
>>>
>>> Does either Strava or Cyclometer or any of the others reverse your trip
>>> with verbal or turn by turn "written" directions--perhaps I missed it?
>>> Right now, I only go exactly where I know I can backtrack, so I don't get
>>> lost.  Or, do you use Google Maps or Waze for directions?  Road directions,
>>> though, could be different than MUP directions for a return trip.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 5:57:10 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>

 ...If I get lost and need the GPS for directions, that's a good time to
 stop and pay attention to the screen anyway.

 that's just me

 BL in EC

>
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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Kai Vierstra]

I am also happy with the VP001's, with size 16's.
-Kai
BK NY 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Comic Relief: CLOSE-RANGE crankset

[Garth]

 I do believe the takeaway here is there are many different ways to gear a 
bicycle. No limits ! 

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[RBW] OT: Is there any effective protection for iPhone 6 glass?

['BrianMcG' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Get some Gorilla Glass to cover the glass with. It's basically a stick on pane 
of glass that goes over the iPhone screen. 

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Les Lammers]

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 8:27:33 PM UTC-4, Kurt Manley wrote:
>
> I have size 13 feet and the MKS sneaker pedals always felt great to me. 
> They are $30 from Riv so they're within your budget and you can also 
> support Riv. 
>
> I do really like the VP pedals too, *there's plastic ones that feel great 
> available on the bay for around $20.* VP Vice is my favorite pedal but 
> over your budget. The MKS feel just as good though just not quite as 
> grippy. 
>
> On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 8:07:36 AM UTC-7, Austin B wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking for a recommendation for a decent quality, inexpensive 
>> (<$40), large platform pedal for my Sam Hillborne. 
>>
>> I currently run Shimano XT SPD's on my Sam Hillborne but want platform 
>> pedals as I'm planning to do some rides along the C canal and fishing the 
>> Potomac. For this, I'd like to wear my Keen sandals for biking and fishing.
>>
>> Now, Keens are known for being quite wide, and at size 12 shoes, I'm 
>> taking that to a bit of an extreme. Hence the size of the platforms being 
>> wide enough for my shoes is the most important criteria. Smaller, cheap 
>> platforms won't work as it always feels like the outside of my feet are 
>> unsupported.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Austin
>>
>  
The polycarbonate/plastic VP pedals with the reflectors work better for me, 
more comfortable, and cheaper than the VP-001s. They also have the same 
bearings.. 

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Ian A]

No one's mentioned the Shimano M324, so I'll chime in for those. Flat one 
side and clipless the other. I have an 11.5 foot (wide) and for some reason 
the M324s work really well for me. For longer rides, I like to clip in, but 
I also like to wear sneakers, hiking boots or Vibram Five Fingers and the 
platform side works for all those. One thing I really appreciate about the 
pedal (on the platform side) is that it's not slippery when wet. Good 
quality pedals at an amazing price.

IanA



On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 9:07:36 AM UTC-6, Austin B wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a recommendation for a decent quality, inexpensive (<$40), 
> large platform pedal for my Sam Hillborne. 
>
> I currently run Shimano XT SPD's on my Sam Hillborne but want platform 
> pedals as I'm planning to do some rides along the C canal and fishing the 
> Potomac. For this, I'd like to wear my Keen sandals for biking and fishing.
>
> Now, Keens are known for being quite wide, and at size 12 shoes, I'm 
> taking that to a bit of an extreme. Hence the size of the platforms being 
> wide enough for my shoes is the most important criteria. Smaller, cheap 
> platforms won't work as it always feels like the outside of my feet are 
> unsupported.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
> Austin
>

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

With size 11 Keens.

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I am very happy with the vp001s

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