[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Tom Horton]

dave, your experiences in uprightness mirror mine to a tee...have tried on 
a quickbeam an appaloosa and a waterford and gone back to drops, usually 
mounted a little below or about equal to the seat...I too would love to 
know how drops would work on a cheviot. even at age 72 I need to be a bit 
stretched out it seems.

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 3:16:13 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm thinking yes, and I don't 
> need to duplicate the 2 Sams I already have.  
>
> Thanks in advance for any input on this.  I know I could continue to play 
> with set-ups and hope to stumble across a solution, but I'm tired of that 
> and about ready to give up on the Cheviot and am hoping to find a solution 
> more efficiently than trial and error, if one exists.  If I can't get to 
> liking the Cheviot then I'm gonna consider that I'm in the 
> don't-care-for-uprights camp, but first wanted to eliminate the possibility 
> that there's a simple solution I'm just not seeing.  
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[tom horton]

all of my drop bars have interrupter brakes…Paul Components makes nice ones, 
but cheapies work just as well…probably works best with wide bars.

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[RBW] Re: New Frank Jones Senor photos on the BLUG

[Belopsky]

cant tell if srs

On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 6:10:14 PM UTC-5, Bill Eberle in 
Columbus, Ohio wrote:
>
> The math puzzles me. Does this mean if you buy two FJSenors that RBW will 
> include a free custom frame and $500 in parts credit?
>
> Bill "beer major, not math" Eberle
> Columbus, Ohio
>

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[RBW] Re: FS 60cm Cheviot

[Joe Bernard]

They're really nice frames. I love my 55cm Chev, and I'm tempted to try a 
slammed-post 60 to confirm/deny my suspicion that my long torso/short legs fit 
a much bigger bike with pullback bars. Maybe!

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[RBW] Re: A Better Mousetrap: Riv Pletscher rack review

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

14" or about 35.5cm. This is with 2.something 26" Thunder Burts on what was 
a 700c frame, and the rack sitting about an inch or less off the fender, 
which itself has loads of clearance over the tire. Don't forget that, in 
addition to the two holes on the strut tab, there are three other height 
adjustment holes on the fore strut itself. Lots of adjustability with this 
rack; you'd have to try hard to make it not fit. Unfortunately, I see Riv 
is currently out of stock.

On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 6:34:45 PM UTC-5, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Mark
>
> Thanks for the review, very informative.  You mentioned you lowered the 
> rack.  I looked at the expanded pictures and saw how you did it.  Just 1 
> question:
>  What is the vertical distance from the rack top to the dropout you 
> attached it to??
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>

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[RBW] Re: A Better Mousetrap: Riv Pletscher rack review

[John Hawrylak]

Mark

Thanks for the review, very informative.  You mentioned you lowered the 
rack.  I looked at the expanded pictures and saw how you did it.  Just 1 
question:
 What is the vertical distance from the rack top to the dropout you 
attached it to??

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Glen]

I had the same feeling before adding interrupter levers to my noodles. Now 
riding around town in traffic is just as nice on the noodles as the albas.

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 10:34:37 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> My very specific reason for trying to make uprights work is I don't like 
> the braking situation on drops. I'm too old a creaky to ride in the drops 
> so all my braking is on the hoods, which feels unstable on steep descents. 
> I like mtb levers I can get to. 

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[RBW] New Frank Jones Senor photos on the BLUG

[Bill Eberle in Columbus, Ohio]

The math puzzles me. Does this mean if you buy two FJSenors that RBW will 
include a free custom frame and $500 in parts credit?

Bill "beer major, not math" Eberle
Columbus, Ohio

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[RBW] New Frank Jones Senor photos on the BLUG

[Tim Bantham]

I was drooling over those lugs when I looked at those photos today. Wow!

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[RBW] Re: Suntour Power Thumb Shifters

[R. Alexis]

I have some SunTour XC friction shifters in use on my 1994 Bridgestone MB-1 
retro build. They along with a bunch of other parts originally were on my 
1986 Mongoose ATB that I ended up warrantying. The shifters were on the 
replacement 1991 Mongoose IBOC Sport before I changed them out for index 7 
speed SunTour XC-LTD thumb shifters. 

I really like the shifting of the friction shifters again. I had no issues 
when I got it built up and rode it. This is after having index shifting 
rear bikes for a while. I since have gotten a second bike rebuilt using 
some NOS SunTour Sprint downtube shifters. Had those shifters since before 
Rivendell finally bought out the stock They are on my 1988 Schwinn Voyageur 

Will more than likely end up with a set of the Silver 2 shifters, even 
though I have some Suntour XC-Comp ones. 

Reginald "Shifting back to the future" Alexis

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 62 Quickbeam or SimpleOne

[Ben Miller]

Hey Tom,

Glad you're happy with the bike! I hope you get more use out of it than I did. 
I had a black Brooks saddle on there, so I can see you black & green scheme 
working. Look forward to seeing how you mix it up and any ride reports!

Cheers,
Ben

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 62 Quickbeam or SimpleOne

[tc]

Thanks guys. It’s actually a very well cared for 62 SimpleOne.   The green is 
awesome, and I’m picturing a black+green color combo like the Pashley Speed 5. 
I have the black saddle, black leather wrap for albastache bars, and small 
black bell. Gonna try the Continental Speed Contact black-walls (42mm) first 
and see how it goes. 

Yep, first SS I’ve owned since my dad helped me build a BMX knock-around bike 
in my early teens!

My son has a swim meet this weekend - but hoping to get started on it Saturday 
afternoon. 

Tom

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[RBW] FS: Ergon grips GP-1

[Joe Bunik]

hi team,

I've a used-but-decent set of the Ergon GP-1 grips in black/grey;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/joe_bunik/38978666745/in/dateposted/

$20 shipped. Please excuse the OT/OS bits (but if interested, feel
free to make an offer…)

Thanks!
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

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[RBW] Re: Frame lock installation - Clem

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

So you're saying the lock is fool-proof?

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 6:57:15 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> It's mostly for running into 7-Eleven real quick for a snack. If you're 
> standing in line and see through the window that some fool is trying to 
> pedal away with your bike, the comedy of the wheel not moving and the bike 
> falling over gives you enough time to get out there and watch fool run 
> away. 

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Re: [RBW] Upright bars--my Cheviot review

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Usually my kids are following me, but yeah if they are in front, I want my
hands on the brakes!

Toshi


On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 3:56 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:

> Interesting what you say about using the ends of the Albastache bars for
> slow riding with kids. I *thought* this would work well when I used them,
> but I find that riding with my kids, they like to stop suddenly and for no
> apparent reason. I didn't like being that far away from the brakes. So for
> me, the Albastache was basically a fast riding bar, like a drop bar. For
> slow riding, I want mtb style brake levers.
>
> Eric
>
> On Tue, Jan 23, 2018 at 11:28 PM, Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:
>
>> I'm basically a drop bar guy, but I love my wife's Betty Foy, so I
>> thought it would be great to have a bike that I can just ride on with no
>> fuss and I have it pitlocked so I can take it to the grocery and not have
>> to worry about it getting stuff stolen too easily.
>>
>> The bike doesn't really turn too quickly when you turn the handlebars,
>> but it has the Riv quickness in terms of responding to body weight shifts,
>> so while I don't think the bike is fast, it is responsive to me.
>>
>> I set up the bike with Albastache bars and I put the brakes up front.
>> The position feels similar to the drop bar position and I can tuck in when
>> it's windy.  The upright position towards the end of the bars is nice to
>> have, especially when I am just taking a relaxing ride with the kids.
>>
>> I tried to ride with non-clipless pedals, but I live on the middle of a
>> big hill, and any direction you go, there are hills. I missed the power of
>> the clipless pedals when climbing, so I had to compromise and have the
>> shimano two sided pedals with one side spd and one side standard.
>>
>> I don't care--yet--about having the mixte and easy mounting of the
>> saddle, but I'm sure I'll appreciate that as I get older!
>>
>> The bike as shown below was expertly assembled by Mark at Riv, and with
>> him knowing how I ride, he setup the Cheviot just as I would like it.
>>
>> I used a 7 cm stem, and I normally use a 9 cm stem for my drops.
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/42771204@N00/38968449685/in/da
>> teposted-public/
>>
>>
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>
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[RBW] A Better Mousetrap: Riv Pletscher rack review

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I bought the Riv Pletscher when I bought my Clementine, but that bike was 
designated for hauling the Burley Piccolo, so it got the Moose rack, and 
the Pletscher got lost in the parts closet for a couple of years. As part 
of the recent (late) winterization of the Trekendell, I finally got around 
to installing it. I like its elegantly industrial looks, and the fact that 
it is an improved version of the most ubiquitous rack of all time.

I only installed it yesterday, so this is not a full, over time review, 
more like first impressions and installation notes. The rack has a more 
substantial feel in the hand when compared to the standard Pletscher. The 
finish is like a silvery galvanized with subtle sparkley flakes. Once 
attached to the bicycle and battened down, it feels as secure as the finest 
Nitto racks. And holy cow, that spring clamp is serious business, with a 
powerful action. You probably *could* rig this thing in such a way as to 
dispatch unwanted rodents with it.

*Installation notes: *It has a few more parts than your average mouse trap, 
I mean rack, even without the extras like taillight mount and pannier 
rails, but the directions are okay, and Rivendell Bicycle Works also has a 
video. My first attempt appeared okay initially, but during the test ride I 
realized it was too close to the seat stays, and the brake straddle cable 
was hitting the back of the rack. The reason I did not notice this right 
away was because I left the house without tightening down the clamps that 
hold the seat stay struts to the rack. I rode down the block to the bike 
shop to do this, because the allen head bolts were facing inward, requiring 
one of those allen wrenches with the ball end to handle the angle. I assume 
during the short ride, the rack shifted just enough to foul the brake.

When I returned home, I did two things: I lowered the rack struts going to 
the rear hub and I replaced the struts going to the seat stays. I'm not 
sure if the ones I used came with the rack as a second pair or I had them 
in my rack parts, but by using them I was able to turn the clamp block 
thing so that the allen heads were facing outward, much more convenient, 
and, I would think, the way it should be/was designed to work. If none of 
this makes sense, watch the Riv video and you'll see what I mean, but you 
can also see what I mean by looking at the pics of the rack before (with 
pink lock) and after (without pink lock) at the link below.

Finally, the tail light mount should be installed before you mount the rack 
if possible. The little screw that holds it in is tough to get started, and 
if the rack is mounted low and you have fenders, there is very little room 
to work with.

*Photo notes:*
I was itching to go for a ride longer than the grocery store and back, so I 
took the winterized Trekendelltm (Rat Traps switched for Thunder Burts, 
fenders installed, racks installed; to come: hook up lights, and make mud 
flaps!) for a jaunt along the Beacon Loop Trail, which combines Main Street 
with trails down at the Hudson River. It just so happened that there was 
"flash fogs" while I was down there, so I got a few fairly dramatic shots. 
Felt great to jump on the pedals a bit. More photos here: Pletscher Rack 
and Fog 

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[RBW] Re: FS 60cm Cheviot

[CoalTrain]

Because I did a poor job of planning and didn't realize how much interest this 
would get, I will repost at a later date. I want to strip it down, take proper 
photos of it, and get quotes on shipping. Just crazy busy with work and dog 
tired when I get home .

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[RBW] Re: Parts Bin Sale

[Peter H]

Thanks for the interest everyone.

Here's whats left.

Nitto M12 Front Rack-Brand New/ Unused ( went with Marks Rack instead)  -$70

Nitto Technomic Stem ( see pictures for dimensions etc ) - $40


Friction Sunrace Thumb Shifters M90- Free with any other item


Velo Orange Front Rack (Older Mode)l- $45


Thanks!


Peter

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 6:12:34 PM UTC-5, Peter H wrote:
>
> Hi All, I changed out some parts on my Clem and have somethings I’d like 
> to clear out, as well as some Riv-ish parts that I’d like to part with too.
>
>
> All prices are shipped. DM for additional info if needed
>
>
> Pictures in link 
>
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/NkkgGJRwwgJGmEMC2
>
>
> Shimano Altus Rear Derailleur& Claris Front Derailleur - $15
>
>
> Nitto M12-Brand New/ Unused ( went with Marks Rack instead)  -$70
>
> Shimano Bottom Bracket BBUN55 68MM- $10 or Free with any other item
>
>
> Nitto Technomic Stem ( see pictures for dimensions etc ) - $40
>
>
> Set of Friction Sunrace Thumb Shifters M90 8 Speed- $20
>
>
> Set of Tektro Brake Levers- $15
>
>
> Friction Sunrace Thumb Shifters M90- Free with any other item
>
>
> Velo Orange Front Rack (Older Mode)l- $45
>
>
> Nitto Bullmoose Bars ( Older Style )- $35
>
>
> Jones Bar ( open, older style ) -$25
>

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Re: [RBW] Upright bars--my Cheviot review

[Eric Daume]

Interesting what you say about using the ends of the Albastache bars for
slow riding with kids. I *thought* this would work well when I used them,
but I find that riding with my kids, they like to stop suddenly and for no
apparent reason. I didn't like being that far away from the brakes. So for
me, the Albastache was basically a fast riding bar, like a drop bar. For
slow riding, I want mtb style brake levers.

Eric

On Tue, Jan 23, 2018 at 11:28 PM, Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:

> I'm basically a drop bar guy, but I love my wife's Betty Foy, so I thought
> it would be great to have a bike that I can just ride on with no fuss and I
> have it pitlocked so I can take it to the grocery and not have to worry
> about it getting stuff stolen too easily.
>
> The bike doesn't really turn too quickly when you turn the handlebars, but
> it has the Riv quickness in terms of responding to body weight shifts, so
> while I don't think the bike is fast, it is responsive to me.
>
> I set up the bike with Albastache bars and I put the brakes up front.  The
> position feels similar to the drop bar position and I can tuck in when it's
> windy.  The upright position towards the end of the bars is nice to have,
> especially when I am just taking a relaxing ride with the kids.
>
> I tried to ride with non-clipless pedals, but I live on the middle of a
> big hill, and any direction you go, there are hills. I missed the power of
> the clipless pedals when climbing, so I had to compromise and have the
> shimano two sided pedals with one side spd and one side standard.
>
> I don't care--yet--about having the mixte and easy mounting of the saddle,
> but I'm sure I'll appreciate that as I get older!
>
> The bike as shown below was expertly assembled by Mark at Riv, and with
> him knowing how I ride, he setup the Cheviot just as I would like it.
>
> I used a 7 cm stem, and I normally use a 9 cm stem for my drops.
>
> Toshi
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/42771204@N00/38968449685/in/
> dateposted-public/
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Lester Lammers]

Zed got the Diacomp knob idea from another list member. I've seen the post 
but can't find it now. Check this post too: 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/U08zKHxtpwY His 
saddle is way back. Looks like the VO long setback seat post. A similar 
position worked for me too. The Paul thumbies will be replaced with IRD 
stem mounted shifters. FWIW, I hesitated about the 58cm Boscos but Grant 
was right, wider bars quicken the steering. On the latest Cheviot geometry, 
70 degree head tube, the steering feels right with them. 

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 5:44:18 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Quick update:
>
> dstein, the blog post you linked to resonated with me.  I, too, have 
> fought a Bosco-high setup, deliberately going for an upright build that's 
> not *too* upright so isn't sit-up-and-beg.  But the blog post's author 
> finally realized that Grant knew more about bikes than *he* did, so gave 
> the Boscos a try and loved 'em.  I didn't want to uninstall and then 
> install bars on speculation that I'd react similarly, but I raised my stem 
> to the minimum insertion point (about 2 inches) to get partially more 
> Bosco-like and took it for a couple spins around the block.  Not far, mind 
> you, but enough to know if I'd hate it.  I didn't---in fact, I might have 
> even liked it a little.  Less pressure on my hands, which wouldn't be a big 
> deal after only a couple of miles, but it suggests that the change was in 
> the right direction.  Holding the grips I'm still 17% in Tweenerville, but 
> I was there 72% before so again, the right direction.  And when I reached 
> forward to hold the furthest-forward point of the bars, it felt good.  
>
> The position is still unfamiliar to me, and I feel 8 feet tall in the 
> saddle, but I can get used to that and adapt.  I'll take it for a longer 
> ride when I get a chance---not tonight---and see how that works out.
>
> By the way, I'm not planning to take this touring, and have plenty of 
> other bikes to take for longer rides.  I'd like to be able to enjoy this 
> for, say, a 13-mile ride which is the up-and-back distance of a local trail 
> that's sometimes relaxing after work.  Or to the store, or just buzzing 
> around the neighborhood for 8-10 miles.  The 24-mile ride was unplanned, 
> but I extended my initial ride to see if I'd acclimate to a position that 
> seemed awkward over the first 10 or so miles.  I didn't, and it got worse.  
>

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