[RBW] Ball In Socket Seat Tube Lug

[Scott McLain]

I am curious to see what other's think of the new ball-in-socket seat tube 
lug that has now found its way on to all Riv bikes.  I don't like it.  I 
don't know why or why not.  I hate to be critical of our good brothers and 
sisters at Riv.  I just love the old school lugs.  I would be interested to 
know how much money is saved going with the ball in socket lug and not 
using a bottom bracket lug.  Anyone know more about it?

Scott

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[RBW] FS: All City Space Horse Custom 55cm Golden Gate w/ dynamo and nitto bits

[Dave Grossman]

Wow

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[RBW] Re: FS: Kogswell Model R

[Joe Bernard]

I'm not in the market (I just sold my Frank Jones) but I'll ask anyway for the 
thread, is this model low trail?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Kogswell Model R

[Kent Peterson -- Eugene, Oregon]

I had one of these (and yes, it's a Model G). I had mine set up with an old 
Sturmey Archer AW 3-speed and rode it a bunch including the Van Isle 1200K. A 
lovely riding frame.

Kent Peterson
Eugene, OR USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Hub Recommendations

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks again, Mike.

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 7:45 PM Michael / SF 
wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
>
> Responded to your i-bob thread but reposting here for posterity: I just
> tried this out with a new wheelset. The Shimano plug fit on the SON rather
> nicely, but no luck actually powering the lights. Bummer, that would have
> been surprisingly cool!
>
> Michael
> SF / CA
>
> On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 5:40:27 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I'd test this myself except that if I have a spare Shimano plug, I don't
>> know where it is. I'd be very interested to hear from anyone who can try
>> this.
>>
>> Michael, thanks for bringing this to the list.
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 6:23 PM Michael / SF 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On the subject of comparing SON and Shimano/SP connectors, does anybody
>>> have personal experience with this:
>>> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/c9mbgn/hint_for_son_dynamo_owners_shimano_plug_fits_well/
>>> ?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>> SF / CA
>>>
>>> --
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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> 
> .
>


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---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Front Rack for Wald Basket

[Justin Lai]

Will do. I picked up the SOMA demi porteur 
 rack via the 
aforementioned iBOB thread for a great price. I'll snap a photo and upload 
here once it's installed.  

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 6:22:56 PM UTC-7, BlackBomber wrote:
>
> Please do post pics of whatever you install (especially the Lucas). I’m 
> also looking to put a Rack on my Clem, and the Soma seems unbeatable for 
> the price.

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[RBW] Re: FS- 53cm Atlantis with s couplers (26” wheels)

[Bin Chen]

I have this same bike but without the couplers. Wish my bike had couplers 
actually!

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[RBW] Re: Thankyou

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hey Brendon! I reiterate the joy of others that you are fine and your bike 
may be too. A few thoughts:

1. How in the world did you see that in the field? I'd have totally missed 
it. Of course I'm not the most observant person and have missed really 
obvious things for days being a knucklehead.

2. Australian fauna and flora are on a whole different level when it comes 
to both passive and active dangers they present. Makes my territory 
positively wimpy. Even our tree branches don't try hard to kill or maim, 
just breaking easily. Wimps.

Keep riding with abandon!

With abandon
Patrick  

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 7:31:42 PM UTC-6, brendonoid wrote:
>
> I agree that steel is the best frame material and I will most likely be 
> riding this bike again with a new fork. I tend to get emotional about my 
> bikes and overreact especially about my rivendells but just wanted to 
> reiterate a few bullet points:
> - My fenders did not have safety clip thingos
> - I had the nitto Big Front Rack equipped which was basically a tubular 
> space frame reinforcement preventing the fork from bending as designed.
> - The trail I was on was absolutely littered with sticks branches and bark 
> and I had ridden the entirety of the the previous day on the same terrain 
> with no issues. There was no line to pick that would avoid this stuff. Wish 
> I had a photo. Karri trees drop a LOT of litter.
> Thanks again folks for the advice, encouragement and commiserations, I'm 
> much more or a lurker than a poster and have enjoyed reading the content on 
> this forum for many years.
> Cheers to all,
> Brendon M.
> PS oh I actually have a bad photo of my bike the day before I crashed it. 
> Can't make out much of the bike from this angle but the bags 'backwards' on 
> the front to clear the Neo Retro Cantis. The [image: 
> Appaloosadaybefore.jpg]Smart Sams, whilst perfect for the pea gravel, 
> would also have been a contributing factor as the tread can be very grabby. 
> The bags are very lightly packed with hiking gear and I don't think the 
> weight was a significant contributor.
> On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 at 17:23:00 UTC+8 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing 
>> that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this 
>> will help others as a warning or something... ?
>> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that 
>> did not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common 
>> sense fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
>> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
>> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an 
>> overnighter on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure 
>> inbetween some bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the 
>> next town as I crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken 
>> branches... doing ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a 
>> stop. Just a firm enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make 
>> me have to put my feet down suddenly.
>> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
>> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
>> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid 
>> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!' 
>> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is 
>> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting the downtube I can 
>> still ride out of here... why has the head badged popped out funny though?"
>> Oh, the headtube is shaped like a banana...
>> Welp.
>> I could have been doing 40km/h down hill and i could have died as well as 
>> killing my bike. This is what I am trying to commisserate myself with. It 
>> barely helps.
>> I live in Western Australia. There are no local frame builders I know of 
>> or would trust to try and repair this frame. Shipping the bike back to 
>> Rivendell is going to be an expensive excercise and in these COVID times 
>> I'm not sure they can do anything anyway. I really just don't know what I 
>> am going to do.
>> The accident was so minor and I have bent forks before. The problem here 
>> and the reason it has been so catastrophic is because the Big Strong Nitto 
>> rack reinforced the fork removing tis failure mode of being able to bend, 
>> that force was translated into the headtube as the fork actually bent where 
>> the steerer is welded into the crown lug translating that force into the 
>> headtube.
>> I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The frame is weirdly 
>> straight and I cannot find any distortion in the maintubes despite the 
>> obvious bend in the head tube. The headset cups are only out of alignment 
>> to the point that a sealed bearing headset can absorb the variance and 
>> seemingly work ok. 
>> The bend has to have gone somewhere though and I'm not sure that if I got 

Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Hub Recommendations

[Michael / SF]

Hi Patrick,

Responded to your i-bob thread but reposting here for posterity: I just 
tried this out with a new wheelset. The Shimano plug fit on the SON rather 
nicely, but no luck actually powering the lights. Bummer, that would have 
been surprisingly cool!

Michael
SF / CA

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 5:40:27 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'd test this myself except that if I have a spare Shimano plug, I don't 
> know where it is. I'd be very interested to hear from anyone who can try 
> this.
>
> Michael, thanks for bringing this to the list.
>
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 6:23 PM Michael / SF  > wrote:
>
>> On the subject of comparing SON and Shimano/SP connectors, does anybody 
>> have personal experience with this: 
>> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/c9mbgn/hint_for_son_dynamo_owners_shimano_plug_fits_well/
>>  
>> ?
>>
>> Michael
>> SF / CA
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Rivendell Protovelo Bleriot S 57cm

[Brendan Willard]

Pm sent

Speaking in Thumbs 

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 3:39 PM, Ted Durant  wrote:
> 
> 
> For sale is my "Travelo" - a Rivendell Protovelo Bleriot that has S 
> couplers installed by Bilenky and a recent repaint (with Bleriot decals and 
> head badge) by Waterford. The paint is a stunning Metallic Copper with cream 
> head tube and fork, which I like to call "root beer with a creamy head". I'm 
> getting a travel bike that allows even fatter tires than these, so sadly this 
> one has to go. Will sell complete or will sell as frame/fork/hs along with 
> whatever other components you want to purchase. There are a few 
> scuffs/scratches on the frame from travel. Saddle and pedals are NOT included.
> 
> Asking $1450 for the whole bike (no saddle or pedals), $975 for the 
> frame/fork/hs (and travel cases), plus shipping. It will ship in its S hard 
> case, probably by Bike Flights, with all the tubes padded. Also included with 
> either the frame or whole bike is an S soft case, which I will ship 
> separately.
> 
> Photos attached to this group posting. If you have trouble getting them, ask 
> and I'll send them to you.
> 
> The current build includes:
> Stronglight headset
> Velo Orange wheels
> Compass Babyshoe Pass EL tires
> Rivendell Silver dual-pivot long-reach brakes
> Aero Gran Compe brake levers
> Ritchey WCS cranks (170mm) with Willow 49/34 chainrings
> Shimano Octalink BB
> Shimano Deore XT rear and 105 front derailleurs
> Shimano 9-speed bar end shifters
> Shimano 9-speed cassette 12-32 (Harris Cycles custom touring mix)
> Nitto Model 177 handlebars (44cm)
> Nitto/Ritchey 90deg (9cm) stem (OEM from '92 XO-1!)
> Nitto S65 seat post
> 
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Front Rack for Wald Basket

[BlackBomber]

Please do post pics of whatever you install (especially the Lucas). I’m also 
looking to put a Rack on my Clem, and the Soma seems unbeatable for the price.

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[RBW] Re: Widest Slick Tires on Atlantis with Fenders

[Steve Cole]

I use Paul Motolites. 

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Re: [RBW] Break-away Fender Safety Options

[somervillebikes]

Andrew,

I'm using a set of PDW stay ends on my VO fenders. They've held up great 
over the years. I set the screws in with loctite blue and was careful not 
to overtighten them.

I thought I wouldn't like the way they look but honestly they just 
disappear into the background.

Anton
velolumino.com




On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 8:08:53 PM UTC-4, Andrew Turner wrote:
>
> I've used the PDW's in the past and they're pretty good, maybe a skosh 
> over-priced. My only qualm with them is the tiny little setting screws used 
> on their safety tabs to hold the stays in place. They're pretty easy to 
> strip, but if you have some spare dual-pivot calliper brakes, you can use 
> the centering adjustment screw as a replacement in a pinch. 
>
> I can't confirm this since PDW doesn't post their stay diameter but it 
> would a pretty nifty set up to just buy PDW's safety tabs and use them with 
> VO fenders... 
> On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-5 Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
>> The "safety" tabs on my SKS plastic fenders worked loose (eventually, 
>> often) from rough roads/trails, which caused me far greater safety concern 
>> than the sticks that never went jamming in. Though with the brittle pine 
>> around here, the sticks easily snap, so a green or hearty wood might well 
>> have jammed when these broke.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick 
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 4:13:38 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> That's useful information; thanks. But does anyone know of options for 
>>> 6.5MM stays? -- the diameter of those on my Kelpies?
>>>
>>> I know that Jan pooh poohs the danger of jamming with properly set up 
>>> metal fenders, even off road, but if I can find a workable QR option, I'd 
>>> very probably use it.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 4:07 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>> Looking into the options for metal fender break away safety, I find:

 Rene Herse comes with Honjo R Clamps. Some reports are these can break 
 away? Thoughts on that?  
 https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/honjo-r-clamp/

 Rene Herse also offers these, which are designed to break away: 
 https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/berthoud-r-clamps/

 The only other option I find is PDWs:

 https://ridepdw.com/collections/custom-fender-fit-collection/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=31598022950969

 Thoughts?

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
 www.DeaconPatrick.org
 www.CatholicHalos.org
 www.ShepherdsandHalos.org

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 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.

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>>>
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 .

>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Break-away Fender Safety Options

[Andrew Turner]

I've used the PDW's in the past and they're pretty good, maybe a skosh 
over-priced. My only qualm with them is the tiny little setting screws used 
on their safety tabs to hold the stays in place. They're pretty easy to 
strip, but if you have some spare dual-pivot calliper brakes, you can use 
the centering adjustment screw as a replacement in a pinch. 

I can't confirm this since PDW doesn't post their stay diameter but it 
would a pretty nifty set up to just buy PDW's safety tabs and use them with 
VO fenders... 
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:25:52 PM UTC-5 Deacon Patrick wrote:

> The "safety" tabs on my SKS plastic fenders worked loose (eventually, 
> often) from rough roads/trails, which caused me far greater safety concern 
> than the sticks that never went jamming in. Though with the brittle pine 
> around here, the sticks easily snap, so a green or hearty wood might well 
> have jammed when these broke.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
>
> On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 4:13:38 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> That's useful information; thanks. But does anyone know of options for 
>> 6.5MM stays? -- the diameter of those on my Kelpies?
>>
>> I know that Jan pooh poohs the danger of jamming with properly set up 
>> metal fenders, even off road, but if I can find a workable QR option, I'd 
>> very probably use it.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 4:07 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
> Looking into the options for metal fender break away safety, I find:
>>>
>>> Rene Herse comes with Honjo R Clamps. Some reports are these can break 
>>> away? Thoughts on that?  
>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/honjo-r-clamp/
>>>
>>> Rene Herse also offers these, which are designed to break away: 
>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/berthoud-r-clamps/
>>>
>>> The only other option I find is PDWs:
>>>
>>> https://ridepdw.com/collections/custom-fender-fit-collection/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=31598022950969
>>>
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>>> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>> email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>
>>
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/B60F901E-9C5B-49E5-8301-C6330805BF50%40mac.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: All City Space Horse Custom 55cm Golden Gate w/ dynamo and nitto bits

[Brett Callahan]

This is a great build.  My wife has (and very much enjoys) a Space Horse.  
Would reccommend.  I'm sorry you have to sell it. 

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Re: [RBW] Paul Levers, Brakes, Thumbies

[Joe Bernard]

For future reference "brakeset" is commonly used to denote enough brakes for 
one bike. 

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Re: [RBW] Paul Levers, Brakes, Thumbies

[Matthew Williams]

"Brakeset" refers to 1 pair of brakes for 1 wheel. 

Each package has one pair of brakes, so for a complete bike, you'd need 2 
brakesets--1 front, 1 rear.




On Jul 1, 2020, at 12:40 PM, Raymond Henderson  wrote:

> Does 1 brakeset mean brakes for the front and rear wheel? If so, I will take 
> one.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ray
> 
> On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 1:31:24 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:
> Levers have been sold and are on their way!
> 
> Thumbies and Motolite Brakesets are still available.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:55:54 PM UTC-7 tc wrote:
> Matthew, 
> I’d like the Love Levers If still available. 
> Thanks, 
> Tom
> 
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[RBW] FS: All City Space Horse Custom 55cm Golden Gate w/ dynamo and nitto bits

[Connor Brooks]

Don't really wanna sell, but I need to get some $ together for a safer car 
with my daughter on the way.

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/D16G7Wo 

All City Space Horse - $2000 shipped to the lower 48. If you're up in New 
Hampshire or Maine or something price might increase a smidge because it 
stupidly expensive to ship up there.55cm Golden Gate
Wheels:
Velocity Atlas polished 32h 3x
DT Comp
White Ind XMR Rear
Son28 Dynamo Front
Panaracer Pasela Protite 38mm w/ plenty of life leftPink White Ind Headset
Nitto Cromo Albatross bars
-Riv mischa cork grips
-bit of esi grip
-Newbaums teal bar tape on the front
-I'll send it with a couple extra of those grips, hopefully they won't 
break in shipping, in case you want to switch it up a bit.
Nitto Crystal Seatpost
Brooks B17
110mm dimension stemDrivetrain:
Shimano Deore II Group
170mm cranks 26/36/46
8Sp in the back 11-28 cassette
New-ish sram chain
Microshift bar-end Shifters (Index only rear).Brakes:
Paul canti levers
Paul Klampers short pullLights:
Front is Son Edelux II silver
Rear is B Toplight line plusI wanna keep the bags and rear rack and 
pedals, but front and rear lights and m18 front rack are included.
If you really want the rear rack we can taco bout it..

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[RBW] Re: Ride Photos

[Collin A]

No graffiti bridge photo?

I love Winters! It is a wonderful little town that serves as a good 
resting/refueling point. Very curtious drivers out there and buttery smooth 
pavement. 

Not much luck finding off-road routes in that direction, though.

Cheers,
Collin, slightly east, in Sac

On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 6:02:53 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Took some black-and-white photos on Friday while riding out to Winters, 
> CA.  Great little town east of Davis that’s well worth a visit if you’re in 
> the area. Steady Eddy’s coffee house is usually mobbed with cyclists on the 
> weekend, but a little less so these days. Bring a mask—they’re required in 
> Yolo County!
>
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[Collin A]

Geez, glad you are not hurt. Not dying vs. a broken frame is a good 
trade-off in my opinion...

Yes on the photos, also it might still be worth telling Riv about the 
accident. They may have some recs and insight on what the best course of 
action is. In general, failures teach us a lot about design, so they may 
modify future production to prevent similar failures. At the very least, 
this is a good reminder to those of us who use fixed mounting brackets on 
the fork..

Stay Safe
Collin, digging up those plastic quick release RH clips in his parts bin 
for the coming winter...

On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 2:23:00 AM UTC-7, brendonoid wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing 
> that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this 
> will help others as a warning or something... ?
> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that 
> did not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common 
> sense fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an 
> overnighter on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure 
> inbetween some bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the 
> next town as I crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken 
> branches... doing ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a 
> stop. Just a firm enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make 
> me have to put my feet down suddenly.
> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid 
> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!' 
> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is 
> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting the downtube I can 
> still ride out of here... why has the head badged popped out funny though?"
> Oh, the headtube is shaped like a banana...
> Welp.
> I could have been doing 40km/h down hill and i could have died as well as 
> killing my bike. This is what I am trying to commisserate myself with. It 
> barely helps.
> I live in Western Australia. There are no local frame builders I know of 
> or would trust to try and repair this frame. Shipping the bike back to 
> Rivendell is going to be an expensive excercise and in these COVID times 
> I'm not sure they can do anything anyway. I really just don't know what I 
> am going to do.
> The accident was so minor and I have bent forks before. The problem here 
> and the reason it has been so catastrophic is because the Big Strong Nitto 
> rack reinforced the fork removing tis failure mode of being able to bend, 
> that force was translated into the headtube as the fork actually bent where 
> the steerer is welded into the crown lug translating that force into the 
> headtube.
> I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The frame is weirdly straight 
> and I cannot find any distortion in the maintubes despite the obvious bend 
> in the head tube. The headset cups are only out of alignment to the point 
> that a sealed bearing headset can absorb the variance and seemingly work 
> ok. 
> The bend has to have gone somewhere though and I'm not sure that if I got 
> a new fork that I could feel safe riding the frame as is...
> I really just needed to vent,
> Thanks for listening, (reading I guess)
> Brendon M.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Widest Slick Tires on Atlantis with Fenders

[Elijah Bernstein-Cooper]

Another question, what brakes do y'all use with this wide-tire + fender 
setup? I plan on using a rear rack and panniers.

On Monday, June 29, 2020 at 2:27:02 AM UTC-4 Elijah Bernstein-Cooper wrote:

> Thanks all. I just ordered the latest model of Atlantis, size 55, fitting 
> 700c wheels. Those Simworks fenders sure are expensive! Good to know it all 
> fits on the Atlantis. I suppose the Simworks smooth 62mm would not provide 
> enough clearance correct?
>
> On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 5:18:26 PM UTC-4 Steve Cole wrote:
>
>> Following up on Jason's post, I haveRH Antelope Hill with Simworks 74 mm 
>> fenders on my MIT Atlantis.  Clearance sufficient but close.  The fenders 
>> had to be squished a tad at the fork to fit well.  Happy to answer any 
>> questions.
>>
>> Steve Cole
>> Arlington, VA
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 11:53:45 AM UTC-4, Elijah Bernstein-Cooper 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I'd like as wide slick tires as possible with fenders on my Atlantis 55. 
>>> Would it be possible to fit Rene Herse 55 Antelope Hill tires with SKS 
>>> 60mm  or Velo Orange 63mm fenders? 
>>>
>>> Any other recommendations for wide tires? Or for fenders?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Single-speed country bike(?)

[Ian Terry]

I was also wondering about this recently. I remember reading a mention of 
it somewhere along the way (Maybe in a GP blog post?), but I haven't been 
able to find it again. I'm definitely interested in learning more, as I 
have some single-speed aspirations myself. On my end, its looking like it 
might come down to waiting for the new RBW ss to come out, or going with a 
Black Mountain Cycles canti Monstercross when their next batch arrives in 
Novemberish. 

Ian Terry
Miami, FL

On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 5:02:48 PM UTC-4, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> I seem to recall a mention of a single-speed country bike in the works, 
> but can't for the life of me find the thread. It may have been a few months 
> ago.
>
> Anyhow, is that the case, or strictly fanciful? I'm generally out of touch 
> with RBW news these days...
>

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[RBW] Re: Bosco / Clem riders: Do your knees hit the bars?

[BlackBomber]

Hi, and thanks for all of the helpful replies. Since my posting, I received 
and installed my 12cm Tallux. As I suspected, that didn't help much, even 
with the quill raised to the max mark (which looked a bit funny, too). 
However, rotating the bars from the 12deg grip angle to the recommended 
starting point of 7 deg helped. Also getting confirmation from Will at Riv, 
and some of you that this is expected. Yes, there is still interference, 
but I've realized my aversion was mainly due to second guessing my choices. 
I'm totally acclimated to the riding position now. I've also lowered the 
stem to the minimum possible height (which is still generously tall with 
the short head tube on the 45cm. I agree that it's a wonderful bike which 
practically rides itself. I don't want to trim the bars, as I like the 
multiple hand positions. I may switch to a stem shifter in the future, but 
for now I installed the bar ends I have, as I can just cut down the cables 
later. Yes, that made it rather worse, but I do like them (I should say it, 
as I still don't have a FD). 

No great photos, but I did snap this one of the build as it sits now:



On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 11:53:45 AM UTC-4, BlackBomber wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of building up a Clem H with 55cm Boscos, and a 115mm 
> reach "7" stem. The stem is a placeholder until my 120mm Tallux comes in, 
> but that won't give much more room. Note that a 45cm complete would have 
> come with the shorter 110mm stem. Anyway, it seems like the bars and my 
> knees will be in conflict on some turns. Something I'm familiar with 
> (owning a couple of pre-WWII American bikes). I also have bar end shifters, 
> although I think it would be a problem with thumbies, also. The bars are 
> raised with the grips resting about an inch higher than my seat, and maybe 
> a 10-12 degree rotation back. I'm 5'4" with a 79cm PBH on a 45cm frame. It 
> was a toss up between the 45 and 52, and I felt more comfortable with the 
> idea of a 45 as 52 is just about where I feel comfortable on a road bike, 
> and I wanted more standover. Plus my converted MTB build I'm replacing has 
> the same top tube length as my Clem, and I feel great on that bike.
>
> So my question is, when properly fitted, do these bars interfere with 
> knees in real world riding, or did I pick the wrong size frame?
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Clem Smith Jr (59) w/SON dyno setup

[Nathan W]

Thanks all for your interest; this bike has just sold (pending payment) and 
is no longer available.  

On Monday, June 29, 2020 at 2:19:54 AM UTC-4 ryan.tre...@gmail.com wrote:

> I can't seem to figure out how to PM you Nathan on the new Google groups 
> (reply to author is greyed out), but I'm interested in your Clem H.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan
>
> On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 9:51:28 AM UTC-6 Nathan W wrote:
>
>> FS: Clem H, size 59 (700c), in grilver. 
>>
>> This was purchased new in Spring 2018 and features the lovely curved seat 
>> stays from Riv’s first batch.  I’ve added SKS fenders, a SONdelux x Synergy 
>> front wheel paired to an Edelux lamp, and a few other things listed below. 
>> Very low mileage (<250miles), one of many other lugged steel bikes in the 
>> stable, always stored indoors during winter months.  There are signs of 
>> wear in the usual spots consistent with use as a light duty, occasional 
>> commuter.  No dents, though a handful of nicks and scratches from being 
>> locked up against bike racks outdoors.  Braze-ons show signs of rack 
>> installation, and there is some discoloration on some bolt heads.  Perfect 
>> candidate for those who don’t mind a little beasuage, and will use the Clem 
>> H to its full potential.  Equipped with racks and loaded down it is 
>> wonderfully capable, yet sure footed and smooth riding.  Selling only as I 
>> have a Cheviot in size 60 that fits just a touch better for my geometry. 
>>
>> Motivated to sell at $950 complete with the factory Riv build, or $1,150 
>> with the dyno wheel SONdelux x Edelux setup  
>>
>>
>>- Frame: 59cm grilver, curved-stay Clem H frame & fork *(clearance 
>>for 2.4” tire)
>>- FSA Duron headset
>>- Nitto Tallux stem, 12cm
>>- Bosco handlebars (55 I think), cro-mo
>>- Riv Silver 38/24 cranks, 178mm arms
>>- Shimano Deore RD, Claris FD
>>- Deore V-brakes
>>- Sunrace BLM V-brake levers
>>- Microshift Thumbies, inboard mounted, with Crane brass bell
>>- 9speed 12-34 Sunrace cassette, KMC chain w/quick connect 
>>- Alex DM24 Rims, 32H/36H spoke
>>- Kickstand (non-Pletscher), not installed
>>- Kalloy silver seatpost, 29.8mm
>>- Brooks B17 saddle, honey
>>- Grey Jagwire cable housing
>>- Kenda 700x2.0 Kwick Nine
>>- Fenders: SKS B65, silver
>>- Newbaum brown wrap over foam bartape
>>- Pedals not included
>>- Optional: Velocity Synergy x SONdelux 32H handbuilt front wheel 
>>with Edelux lamp
>>
>> Prefer local pickup; delivery possible in the greater Boston area.  Also 
>> open to packing (original box available) + shipping at actual cost.  
>>
>> Please contact me for photos / viewings.  
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Nathan
>>
>> Newton, MA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Garage Sale, parting out a bike

[Collin A]

Advent has been sold.

Still up for grabs: Frame/Fork, Redshift Seatpost, and 165mm sugino 
cranks...

Cheers,
Collin

On Thursday, June 25, 2020 at 8:12:53 AM UTC-7, Collin A wrote:
>
> Had to do some digging, but it turns out it was a prototype for a road 
> bike (brand was 17teeth, frames were built several years ago in taiwan). 
> One of the LBS' in Sac picked them up through a friend. It's a beautiful 
> frame up close, seems pretty well made, and it's a simple bike that can be 
> built in some fun ways, which was why I got it. 
>
> It's not a super light frame, but the ride is smooth with the colnago fork 
> (lots of washboards on my local rides).
>
> On Thursday, June 25, 2020 at 7:50:14 AM UTC-7, Drw wrote:
>>
>> Wow, what’s the story with the bike. I’ve never seen something like that. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Kogswell Model R

[Kelsey Ashcraft]

I'm lowering the price on the bike to 450

On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 10:54:09 AM UTC-5, Kelsey Ashcraft wrote:
>
> Ok i know its not a Rivendell but it is steel and it does have some lugs. 
> Im trying to sell my single speed Kogswell size 54.
> Build includes:
> H plus Son wheels
> Velo Orange fenders, stem, and handlebars
> Brooks all weather saddle
> Tektro brakes and Shimano levers
> Pedals and cage are needed for my sons bike and this bike will be packaged 
> by my friends at Decatur Bicycle Shoppe
> Please feel free to text or email me for more pictures.
>
> Thanks
> Kelsey
> kashcraf...@gmail.com
> 217-820-7852
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Levers, Brakes, Thumbies

[Raymond Henderson]

Does 1 brakeset mean brakes for the front and rear wheel? If so, I will 
take one.

Thanks,
Ray

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 1:31:24 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Levers have been sold and are on their way!
>
> Thumbies and Motolite Brakesets are still available.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:55:54 PM UTC-7 tc wrote:
>
>> Matthew, 
>> I’d like the Love Levers If still available. 
>> Thanks, 
>> Tom
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Break-away Fender Safety Options

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The "safety" tabs on my SKS plastic fenders worked loose (eventually, 
often) from rough roads/trails, which caused me far greater safety concern 
than the sticks that never went jamming in. Though with the brittle pine 
around here, the sticks easily snap, so a green or hearty wood might well 
have jammed when these broke.

With abandon,
Patrick 

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 4:13:38 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That's useful information; thanks. But does anyone know of options for 
> 6.5MM stays? -- the diameter of those on my Kelpies?
>
> I know that Jan pooh poohs the danger of jamming with properly set up 
> metal fenders, even off road, but if I can find a workable QR option, I'd 
> very probably use it.
>
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 4:07 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> Looking into the options for metal fender break away safety, I find:
>>
>> Rene Herse comes with Honjo R Clamps. Some reports are these can break 
>> away? Thoughts on that?  
>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/honjo-r-clamp/
>>
>> Rene Herse also offers these, which are designed to break away: 
>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/berthoud-r-clamps/
>>
>> The only other option I find is PDWs:
>>
>> https://ridepdw.com/collections/custom-fender-fit-collection/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=31598022950969
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Break-away Fender Safety Options

[Patrick Moore]

That's useful information; thanks. But does anyone know of options for
6.5MM stays? -- the diameter of those on my Kelpies?

I know that Jan pooh poohs the danger of jamming with properly set up metal
fenders, even off road, but if I can find a workable QR option, I'd very
probably use it.

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 4:07 PM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Looking into the options for metal fender break away safety, I find:
>
> Rene Herse comes with Honjo R Clamps. Some reports are these can break
> away? Thoughts on that?
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/honjo-r-clamp/
>
> Rene Herse also offers these, which are designed to break away:
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/berthoud-r-clamps/
>
> The only other option I find is PDWs:
>
> https://ridepdw.com/collections/custom-fender-fit-collection/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=31598022950969
>
> Thoughts?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Break-away Fender Safety Options

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Looking into the options for metal fender break away safety, I find:

Rene Herse comes with Honjo R Clamps. Some reports are these can break away? 
Thoughts on that?  
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/honjo-r-clamp/

Rene Herse also offers these, which are designed to break away: 
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/fenders/berthoud-r-clamps/

The only other option I find is PDWs:
https://ridepdw.com/collections/custom-fender-fit-collection/products/full-metal-fenders-safety-tabs?variant=31598022950969

Thoughts?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.DeaconPatrick.org
www.CatholicHalos.org
www.ShepherdsandHalos.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[Patrick Moore]

This reminds me to ask: Are there QR clips, or ways to adapt SKS-type QR
clips, to Honjo-type fender struts? (I currently use metal "R" clips).

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 1:49 PM Ash  wrote:

> Hey Brendon,
>
> I'm so glad you are ok.  Really sorry to hear about the bike damage.
>
> Thanks for sharing the story.  The fact that you were riding a high
> quality bike and it also happens to be LWB might have played in your favor.
>
> I have those safety clips on front mudguards.  After reading this story
> and Bill's comments on this thread, I want to see if something similar
> possible for the rear one.
>
> Last year there were two serious bike crashes in my circles.  A cousin,
> who shattered both wrists going over the handlebar.  A coworker who
> shattered on wrist, also going over the handlebar.  (they also had face
> injuries)
>
> Ever since I've been thinking long wheel base and upright riding positions
> increase safety in such accidents.   Today I sketched a diagram to capture
> my gut feeling.  The triangle on the left can be flipped over with
> relatively less force.   (The diagram might look dramatized, not-to-scale,
> not geometrically accurate, the center of gravity might not comply with
> physics equations etc .  It is just my gut feeling.  My riding experience
> with various bikes tell me that there might be some truth to it!)
>
>
> [image: bike-sketch.jpg]
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 02:23:00 UTC-7, brendonoid wrote:
>>
>> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing
>> that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this
>> will help others as a warning or something... ?
>> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that
>> did not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common
>> sense fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of
>> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it.
>> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an
>> overnighter on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure
>> inbetween some bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the
>> next town as I crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken
>> branches... doing ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a
>> stop. Just a firm enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make
>> me have to put my feet down suddenly.
>> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick
>> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
>> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid
>> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!'
>> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is
>> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting the downtube I can
>> still ride out of here... why has the head badged popped out funny though?"
>> Oh, the headtube is shaped like a banana...
>> Welp.
>> I could have been doing 40km/h down hill and i could have died as well as
>> killing my bike. This is what I am trying to commisserate myself with. It
>> barely helps.
>> I live in Western Australia. There are no local frame builders I know of
>> or would trust to try and repair this frame. Shipping the bike back to
>> Rivendell is going to be an expensive excercise and in these COVID times
>> I'm not sure they can do anything anyway. I really just don't know what I
>> am going to do.
>> The accident was so minor and I have bent forks before. The problem here
>> and the reason it has been so catastrophic is because the Big Strong Nitto
>> rack reinforced the fork removing tis failure mode of being able to bend,
>> that force was translated into the headtube as the fork actually bent where
>> the steerer is welded into the crown lug translating that force into the
>> headtube.
>>
>> I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The frame is weirdly
>> straight and I cannot find any distortion in the maintubes despite the
>> obvious bend in the head tube. The headset cups are only out of alignment
>> to the point that a sealed bearing headset can absorb the variance and
>> seemingly work ok.
>> The bend has to have gone somewhere though and I'm not sure that if I got
>> a new fork that I could feel safe riding the frame as is...
>> I really just needed to vent,
>> Thanks for listening, (reading I guess)
>> Brendon M.
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[Ash]

Hey Brendon,

I'm so glad you are ok.  Really sorry to hear about the bike damage. 

Thanks for sharing the story.  The fact that you were riding a high quality 
bike and it also happens to be LWB might have played in your favor.

I have those safety clips on front mudguards.  After reading this story and 
Bill's comments on this thread, I want to see if something similar possible 
for the rear one.

Last year there were two serious bike crashes in my circles.  A cousin, who 
shattered both wrists going over the handlebar.  A coworker who shattered 
on wrist, also going over the handlebar.  (they also had face injuries)

Ever since I've been thinking long wheel base and upright riding positions 
increase safety in such accidents.   Today I sketched a diagram to capture 
my gut feeling.  The triangle on the left can be flipped over with 
relatively less force.   (The diagram might look dramatized, not-to-scale, 
not geometrically accurate, the center of gravity might not comply with 
physics equations etc .  It is just my gut feeling.  My riding experience 
with various bikes tell me that there might be some truth to it!)


[image: bike-sketch.jpg]





On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 02:23:00 UTC-7, brendonoid wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing 
> that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this 
> will help others as a warning or something... ?
> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that 
> did not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common 
> sense fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an 
> overnighter on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure 
> inbetween some bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the 
> next town as I crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken 
> branches... doing ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a 
> stop. Just a firm enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make 
> me have to put my feet down suddenly.
> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid 
> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!' 
> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is 
> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting the downtube I can 
> still ride out of here... why has the head badged popped out funny though?"
> Oh, the headtube is shaped like a banana...
> Welp.
> I could have been doing 40km/h down hill and i could have died as well as 
> killing my bike. This is what I am trying to commisserate myself with. It 
> barely helps.
> I live in Western Australia. There are no local frame builders I know of 
> or would trust to try and repair this frame. Shipping the bike back to 
> Rivendell is going to be an expensive excercise and in these COVID times 
> I'm not sure they can do anything anyway. I really just don't know what I 
> am going to do.
> The accident was so minor and I have bent forks before. The problem here 
> and the reason it has been so catastrophic is because the Big Strong Nitto 
> rack reinforced the fork removing tis failure mode of being able to bend, 
> that force was translated into the headtube as the fork actually bent where 
> the steerer is welded into the crown lug translating that force into the 
> headtube.
>
> I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The frame is weirdly straight 
> and I cannot find any distortion in the maintubes despite the obvious bend 
> in the head tube. The headset cups are only out of alignment to the point 
> that a sealed bearing headset can absorb the variance and seemingly work 
> ok. 
> The bend has to have gone somewhere though and I'm not sure that if I got 
> a new fork that I could feel safe riding the frame as is...
> I really just needed to vent,
> Thanks for listening, (reading I guess)
> Brendon M.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Just Pics from Your Good Ride Thread

[Lyman Labry]

Paul, Thanks.  I’m currently running Albastache on my new Homer and
considering a change.  I have 3 hand positions but find myself more and
more liking the upright position.  I can do that with Albastache but need
to reach long for the brakes. I want the brakes closer to the bar end.

Lyman in Austin

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 1:24 PM True Golden  wrote:

> The handlebar on my friends Homer is a Nitto Billie Bar.
>
> Paul in Dallas
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Hollywood On Schwinn!

[Matthew Williams]

BikeHistory.org  has a lot of cool stuff, 
including this gem:

Hollywood Rides Schwinn Bicycles 



[image: 1946-humphrey-bogart.jpg]

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[RBW] FS: Another 53cm Atlantis F/F/HS

[Matthew Williams]

on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303609777102

(it's not mine and I have no relation to the seller)

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Levers, Brakes, Thumbies

[Matthew Williams]

Levers have been sold and are on their way!

Thumbies and Motolite Brakesets are still available.



On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:55:54 PM UTC-7 tc wrote:

> Matthew,
> I’d like the Love Levers If still available. 
> Thanks,
> Tom

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[RBW] Just Pics from Your Good Ride Thread

[True Golden]

The handlebar on my friends Homer is a Nitto Billie Bar.
Paul in Dallas 

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[Bill Lindsay]

While I think the side conversations about how great steel is for being 
safe to ride even after it's bent and bent back, I'd like to drag it back 
to the Original Poster's original point:

"Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing 
that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this 
will help others as a warning or something... ?"

If you run a front fender, and if you ride anywhere where a tree-part 
(branch, twig, chunk of bark) may get dragged up into your fender by the 
tire or the spokes, then it is smart to use some kind of quick release 
stay.  It is not crazy to employ a QR of some kind in the back as well.  If 
you only ride on pavement and dust and sand then the risk is really small, 
but if you ride over woodchips or bark or fallen branches the risk is not 
so small.  Plowing over branches with one's fat-tired woolly mammoth is 
decidedly more rad than avoiding them, but part of one's line-picking plan 
should probably consider the stuff that's getting sucked up into the 
fenders and the spokes.  Even if you don't run fenders, spokes are still an 
exposure to risk.  Be careful out there with those tree-parts!

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 2:23:00 AM UTC-7, brendonoid wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing 
> that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this 
> will help others as a warning or something... ?
> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that 
> did not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common 
> sense fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an 
> overnighter on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure 
> inbetween some bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the 
> next town as I crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken 
> branches... doing ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a 
> stop. Just a firm enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make 
> me have to put my feet down suddenly.
> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid 
> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!' 
> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is 
> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting the downtube I can 
> still ride out of here... why has the head badged popped out funny though?"
> Oh, the headtube is shaped like a banana...
> Welp.
> I could have been doing 40km/h down hill and i could have died as well as 
> killing my bike. This is what I am trying to commisserate myself with. It 
> barely helps.
> I live in Western Australia. There are no local frame builders I know of 
> or would trust to try and repair this frame. Shipping the bike back to 
> Rivendell is going to be an expensive excercise and in these COVID times 
> I'm not sure they can do anything anyway. I really just don't know what I 
> am going to do.
> The accident was so minor and I have bent forks before. The problem here 
> and the reason it has been so catastrophic is because the Big Strong Nitto 
> rack reinforced the fork removing tis failure mode of being able to bend, 
> that force was translated into the headtube as the fork actually bent where 
> the steerer is welded into the crown lug translating that force into the 
> headtube.
> I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The frame is weirdly straight 
> and I cannot find any distortion in the maintubes despite the obvious bend 
> in the head tube. The headset cups are only out of alignment to the point 
> that a sealed bearing headset can absorb the variance and seemingly work 
> ok. 
> The bend has to have gone somewhere though and I'm not sure that if I got 
> a new fork that I could feel safe riding the frame as is...
> I really just needed to vent,
> Thanks for listening, (reading I guess)
> Brendon M.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I’ve built and repaired many steel frames. 
I wouldn’t be concerned about the frame. It will not suddenly fail. The down 
tube may not have been perfectly straight to begin with. Generally, when down 
tubes fail from a head on crash, they buckle right below the lug. That tiny 
amount of distortion is nothing to worry about. 
The fork bend looks mild. I’b bend it back straight and ride away. Clamp it 
down to a very heavy bench and use a piece of pipe over the steerer tube to 
tweak it back to straight. 

One of the best properties of steel that makes it ideal for bicycle frames is 
its durability. It can be bent many times and will not fail. Think of your fork 
blades - before they were round tubes, they where flat sheet, then rolled in to 
tubes and then swedged to a taper and then bent to a curve. They will bend 
back, no problem. I just fixed a fork that was bent severely to the side 
because the bike fell off a carrier. The owner was freaking out. He thought the 
fork was junk, yet 20-minutes later he happily road away on the same fork. 

Your bike is not dead. 

If you fly me to Oz, I’ll fix it no cost!

James Valiensi


> On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:14 PM, Robert Tilley  wrote:
> 
> I think I'd try riding it with a replacement fork. I wouldn't worry about 
> catastrophic frame failure since it looks like it would give plenty warning 
> before anything happened. A frame alignment would likely be necessary.
> 
> I do wonder if the headset would work without binding. I also wonder what the 
> damage would have been like without the additional top tube. Better or worse?
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to post pictures!
> 
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device
> From: bren...@areyoualert.com 
> Sent: June 30, 2020 8:18 PM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> 
> Reply-to: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> 
> Subject: [RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.
> 
> Thanks so much for everyones kind responses. It was really hard to take clear 
> pictures. I do not like take photos and try not to do it too much.
> I hope these work;
> headtube variance:
> 
> Doesn't look much in the picture but the bend in the middle was actually 
> enough to lift the headbadge loose. seemed to have fulcrumed a bend around 
> the second TT.
> Downtube bend was lower in the tube and a lot longer than I was looking for 
> so my initial inspection missed it:
> 
> Yes that is an old bent Homer fork from an accident in 2013, its steerer was 
> not distorted so was a test bed for headset alignment,
> Headset misalignment is 0.45mm according to my feeler gauge:
> 
> And finally you can see that the fork has bent where the steerer enters the 
> lug and it actually seems the crown lug has twisted slightly also. 
> Frustratingly the fork blades seem almost perfectly straight.
> 
> 
> I will look into the Eastern States options as far as frame repair is 
> concerned but at this point I might just try to get a new fork from Riv and 
> ride it as is. The frame isn't twisted at all and the double top tube gives 
> me confidence that if the downtube does fail it wont be catastrophic. The 
> chamfer on the FSA headset cups/bearings seem to absorb the misalignment and 
> function very smoothly. I suspect an old loose ball headset would not 
> function at all.
> 
> Would probably had grief purchased an orange 57cm if they had still been 
> available...I do love orange.
> On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 at 17:23:00 UTC+8 brendonoid wrote:
> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing that 
> I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this will 
> help others as a warning or something... ?
> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that did 
> not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common sense 
> fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an overnighter 
> on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure inbetween some 
> bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the next town as I 
> crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken branches... doing 
> ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a stop. Just a firm 
> enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make me have to put my 
> feet down suddenly.
> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid 
> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!' 
> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is 
> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting 

Re: [RBW] 50cm Atlantis Standover

[Joel Stern]

Whoops, I meant Ed, sorry.



On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 7:06 AM Joel Stern  wrote:

> Jason, how do you find the fit on your Appaloosa?
>
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 2:46 AM Ed Fausto  wrote:
>
>> Hi Jason,
>> I asked Grant the same question since i would like to get a 50 Atlantis.
>> I currently have the most recent 51 Appaloosa. I have a pbh of 79-80cm.
>>
>> *Grant —> HOWEVER, more practically, I can tell you that with a 680mm
>> diameter tire, roughly a 650x 41mm, the Appa's standover is around 78.6,
>> and the Atlantis's is about 77.7.*
>>
>>
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Joel Stern  wrote:
>>
>> Wondering what the 50cm Atlantis   standover is. If anyone has one of
>> these, 50cm 650b Atlantis  it would be of great help. I know what the
>> Appaloosa is and that seems to be perfect but not in stock.  I using 42mm
>> tires at this time.
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
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>>
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Re: [RBW] 50cm Atlantis Standover

[Joel Stern]

Jason, how do you find the fit on your Appaloosa?

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 2:46 AM Ed Fausto  wrote:

> Hi Jason,
> I asked Grant the same question since i would like to get a 50 Atlantis.
> I currently have the most recent 51 Appaloosa. I have a pbh of 79-80cm.
>
> *Grant —> HOWEVER, more practically, I can tell you that with a 680mm
> diameter tire, roughly a 650x 41mm, the Appa's standover is around 78.6,
> and the Atlantis's is about 77.7.*
>
>
> On Jun 30, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Joel Stern  wrote:
>
> Wondering what the 50cm Atlantis   standover is. If anyone has one of
> these, 50cm 650b Atlantis  it would be of great help. I know what the
> Appaloosa is and that seems to be perfect but not in stock.  I using 42mm
> tires at this time.
>
>
> Thanks
>
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Re: [RBW] 50cm Atlantis Standover

[Ed Fausto]

Hi Jason,
I asked Grant the same question since i would like to get a 50 Atlantis.  I 
currently have the most recent 51 Appaloosa. I have a pbh of 79-80cm.

Grant —> HOWEVER, more practically, I can tell you that with a 680mm diameter 
tire, roughly a 650x 41mm, the Appa's standover is around 78.6, and the 
Atlantis's is about 77.7.


> On Jun 30, 2020, at 7:32 AM, Joel Stern  wrote:
> 
> Wondering what the 50cm Atlantis   standover is. If anyone has one of these, 
> 50cm 650b Atlantis  it would be of great help. I know what the Appaloosa is 
> and that seems to be perfect but not in stock.  I using 42mm tires at this 
> time.  
> 
> 
> Thanks 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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