Re: [RBW] Re: Tektro R559 - Cable Anchor Bolt Replacement?

[Tim Tetrault]

Thank you John.

On Sat, Sep 3, 2022 at 10:55 AM JohnS  wrote:

> Tim,
>
> A 3rd hand brake tool is very handy when setting up side pull brakes like
> yours. As I recall, the trick is to have the brake adjuster turned out 3/4
> of the way as you pull the cable tight and then tighten the bolt. Remove
> the 3rd hand tool and turn the adjuster in until the brake pads are clear
> from the rim.
>
> JohnS
>
> On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 12:10:32 PM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
>> Generally speaking, I can at least confirm the anchor bolts can be
>> replaced, in a pinch (pun intended,) with a m5 bolt and washer.  I mention
>> this alternative simply because this is what I was forced to do after
>> foolishly taking a quick test ride mid-build after doing some parts
>> swapping while neglectfully leaving anchor bolts loosely attached after
>> cable removal with the prior bars and/or levers.  Of course one of them
>> rattled off somewhere along the way which I failed to notice until
>> attempting to finally install new cables.  I cannot say whether the current
>> bolt/washer is any better or worse than the stock anchor block with regard
>> to smushing or fraying or even securing the cable but it's been holding up
>> okay between several seasons on my r539 and I was at least happy to
>> discover an easy solution within the metric bolt jar.
>>
>> Brian
>> Lawrence NJ
>>
>> On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 11:09:58 AM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault wrote:
>>
>>> Brilliant, Garth, thank you.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 2, 2022 at 2:49 AM Garth  wrote:
>>>
 Without seeing the details of the stock R559 cable anchor I can't say
 if it's replaceable, or even a groove could be formed with it as it is.
 Even this detailed exterior image desn't really help as you gotta see the
 what's inside. All that said though, certain cables are more prone to
 squashing than others. Just because a cable gets squashed above or below
 the pinch doesn't mean it will fray though, and fraying beyond the pinch
 bolt doesn't matter anyways and it could be said the fraying at the end
 would help prevent it from going through in the rare case of a anchor bolt
 failure. Fraying above the pinch bolt *does *matter however and should
 be replaced. You can overtighten cables though, or repeat it too often in
 trying to get it "just right". Doing one good tightening motion is optimal.
 You can "practice" how tight is just right with a cable your going to
 replace.  That's the story at least ..


 https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3207af92-894e-4cbf-a7cf-53247a041a71_1.7cdf7cfc5b00ffbbc12956fa9edcc530.jpeg
 On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 9:08:37 PM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault wrote:

> Eh, I wouldn't want to degrade the mechanism in any way.
>
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 4:15 PM Ben Adrian  wrote:
>
>> Could a small cable channel be cut with something like a dremel? I've
>> never used these brakes, so I"m not sure if this is a possible 
>> modification.
>>
>> Cheers!
>> Ben
>>
>> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 10:47:28 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Remember that Stainless Steel cables require a different flux and
>>> solder than the older galvanized cables. The solder and flux for SS 
>>> works
>>> on galvanized but not vice-versa.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 1:43:58 PM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for the soldering idea- that’s great. On my particular 559s
 there’s not one grove but three that seems to act as friction bites on 
 the
 cable.

 On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 10:39 lconley  wrote:

> You can solder the cable that goes in the anchor. You can still
> crush the soldered cable, but the soldered cable will take more 
> clamping
> force before it crushes.
> I also align the square washer so it contacts the cable along the
> full length and keep the cable as close as possible to the bolt. 
> There is a
> semi-concave groove somewhere in there as I recall.
>
> Laing
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 1:01:25 PM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Folks,
>>
>> I have a 2012 Sam that uses Tektro R559 side pull canti's with a
>> square "smush" style anchor bolt for the brake cable. (See picture)
>>
>> Trouble is I generally fray or smush the brake cable more than
>> I'd like. Can one replace these with something that has a little bit 
>> more
>> of a "pocket" for the cable, so I can adjust as the pads wear with 
>> less
>> smushing/fraying?
>>
>> Something like this-
>> https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Part-Anchor-Bolt-Tektro/dp/B0047MCLUE
>>
>> Maybe the answer is I get one of 

[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone 1992 XO-2 (cross-posted to iBob)

[Ray]

Geez guess that would be helpful info. Yes it is a 59 cm.

On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 8:15:21 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Looks like a 59 but I don't see a size listed anywhere. 
>
> On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 5:12:33 PM UTC-7 Ray wrote:
>
>> Hello again everyone,
>>
>> It's been a couple of years since the kind folks in this forum helped me 
>> pick out and build my ultimate townie/commuter. I have you to thank for 
>> many happy hours of riding and bike-tinkering. However, my life and 
>> priorities have changed a lot recently and I need to let this bike go 
>> somewhere it can be better appreciated.
>>
>> A couple things: the bike is at this point fully custom, but I carefully 
>> stored all of the original parts together and will include them all if you 
>> purchase the bike as seen. If you want to buy only the original, that works 
>> too. I will pass it on to you with the parts for you to build up yourself. 
>> The bike does have some cosmetic damage but no dents and never been crashed.
>>
>> Complete bike as it currently exists: $950
>> Only frame and all original parts: $350
>>
>> Would very much prefer local sale in Madison, WI and could meet you 
>> somewhere nearby if you are driving in from surrounding areas. Can set up 
>> shipping with my LBS if necessary but you will have to cover labor and 
>> shipping costs.
>>
>> Full album here: 
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lLitAXkuLrrM2FxfIqow9MXnOCCXkDQ?usp=sharing
>>
>> Build Details:
>> -First of all, this is a 650b conversion. I used Box brakes to get the 
>> pad height and they work flawlessly. Frame will take 650bx48 no problem. 
>> I've had Switchback Hills on it in the past and they were great. Currently 
>> have a pair of very lightly used Panaracer Paselas in 42mm.
>> - Ahearne+Map Handlebar
>> - Paul's Love Levers
>> - Deore 9 speed rear der
>> - Microshift shifter
>> - SON Dynamo lights
>> - Velo Orange front rack
>> - Wheels: Custom built. Velocity Atlas rims to Deore rear hub. Front hub 
>> is actually a Son disc hub that I already had.
>> - Brooks B17 saddle
>> - Velo range security skewers on front and rear hubs and Bicycle Bolts 
>>  on the seatpost clamp (please remind me 
>> to give you the tools for these. I will definitely forget)
>>
>> *QUIRKS (PLEASE READ): *When I purchased the bike I could not get the 
>> seatpost to stop slipping. I tried everything. The bike came stock with a 
>> 26.2mm seatpost and so I tried other 26.2mm seatposts and these slipped 
>> too. Eventually, I was so frustrated that I bought one of these seatposts 
>> 
>>  
>> in 26.4mm from Velo orange and had my LBS ream the seat tube so that it 
>> fit. According to my mechanic this was very very slight. Like one turn with 
>> the tool. Works very well now.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Going around in circles with shifters.

[Karl Wilcox]

Thanks Nick for the tip— I always preferred 8 speed, now I can run it again.

On Thursday, September 1, 2022, Nick Shoemaker 
wrote:

> I've always run 10sp Campy brifters with a Shimano 8sp cassette on my San
> Marcos. No funky cable trickery required, you just set them up like normal
> and end up with 7 functional clicks using any standard Shimano derailleur.
> I think it's far-and-away the most riv-ish option for brifters if you look
> for the alloy ones that look like this (the cutout lever is key!):
>
>
> [image: PsPtM.jpg]
>
> They are:
>
>- silver
>- conspicuously mechanical
>- fully rebuildable
>- confusing to the matchy-matchy sensibilities of Serious Cyclists™
>- different from nearly every other riv build
>- shifters
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 10:33:11 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> [image: 8F29AEE8-D2A8-486C-948A-B8E8155FCE84.jpeg]
>> This seems to be working pretty well.
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:03:00 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> While I get everyone trying to sell on you new parts and all Ben but it
>>> seems it's a cable routing issue. Why not call Riv and ask someone there as
>>> they've seen countless setups applicable to yours if you're not sure how to
>>> do a "super long" cable run ?  For that matter, the simplicity and
>>> universality of DT shifters is often overlooked. So you've got to move your
>>> body to shift, so ? !
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:57:10 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:02:35 AM UTC-7 shopmonkey 39 wrote:

> Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a
> handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to 
> turn
> your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works
> great in friction mode.
>
>
 I've tried this, and yeah, friction is a little better but still stiff.


> Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can
> look for something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and
> the extra run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the
> basket.
>

 I actually am running 42cm highway one bars. I'm not sure what you mean
 by more run out. However, I'm thinking maybe I can do something like start
 to run the housing out of the bar tape once the bar starts to curve upward.
 This might make the shifter cables run upward out of the bars rather than
 forward?


> Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for
> basket bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would
> choose it over STI everytime.
>

 I had considered these, but I wish I could try them first. I've never
 seen them in real life.


>
> Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also
> keep in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can
> sometimes hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my
> bag was stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.
>

 This is a fantastic point. Shimano STIs on a set of 42cm wide bars with
 a loaded front basket seems like a bad idea.

 Thanks for your thoughts!
 Ben

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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Price Drop - Re: FS: Timbuk2 Messenger/Commuter Bag - Blue/Black - NOW $75 Shipped to CONUS

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Had two local CL folks flake on this last week, and I'd much rather sell 
this to a group member. So how's about one of them fancy retailer Labor Day 
Sale things... 
Was $95 shipped. Now $75 shipped. 

DM me. 

On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 5:41:15 PM UTC-7 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

> I've had this for a few years, but it has seen little use. I probably used 
> it while riding once or twice, but more as a travel/plane bag. Of all my 
> messenger bags, this one has the fewest miles on it. Was digging into the 
> closet for something else and this tumbled down off the top shelf. It 
> deserves to see some use and it is not getting it from me. 
>
> There's not really a directly comparable current model. This was a more 
> "digital nomad" design - with a briefcase handle (in addition to the 
> shoulder strap) and a slot through the back pad where you can run the 
> handle of a rollaway bag up through it. The one design flaw is that it did 
> not have a sternum strap, which meant it tended to shift when using as a 
> bike-specific bag. 
>
> Mid-bright blue and black. Customized with a "Just Ride" fabric sticker. 
> It has the nicely detailed flap with velcro adjustable corners. Mild taper 
> to the base and super-rugged scuff fabric on the base. It is a nylon 
> ballistic type cloth throughout (no waxed cotton here). Mid-divider and 
> zippered full length pocket, as well as both internal and external gadget 
> and go-go-gadget pockets. Small reflective tabs on the clip adjusters. Key 
> fob clip. Hydration bottle pocket on the exterior.
>
> Approximate size when folded down:
> 18" w x 12" h
> Can hold a pretty hefty amount of stuff. 
>
> $95 shipped to the CONUS
>
> One image attached here - if you want to see more, please follow the link 
> to this album
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/whvEM7xZ85MgS6KJA
>
> I will delete this post when this sells, so if you are reading this, I'm 
> either waiting for payment or it's yours if you email/contact me directly. 
>
> Cyclofiend 
>
> at GEEEMAIL dot Com (except you need to spell it right) 
>
> Thanks for looking -
>
> Jim
>

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[RBW] WTB 47-49cm Saluki or Bleriot

[Brian Morris]

Hi- I'm on a quest to find 47cm Saluki or 49cm Bleriot frame set out 
there...My PBH is 75cm. preferably old geometry & 650B set up.  I know it 
is fat chance to find one out there, especially small sizes. Hit me up if 
you know anyone who may have one for sale. 

Thanks,
Brian M 
Wilmington NC 

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[RBW] Large Travel Bag for Flying

[Luke Hendrickson]

Hey all! I’ve been hunting around for an answer to this question elsewhere 
and here with little luck. I have one of the newer 62cm Atlantis frames and 
it’s sooo big (love it!), but I haven’t been able to track down a travel 
case that works. I have a Transfer Case from Post Carry that works for my 
23” 1985 Ritchey mtb, but doesn’t cut it for the Riv. Suggestions?

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[RBW] Re: New drivetrain for Rivendell #2

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks for the tips. I'll lean my tendency to procrastinate against my
perfectionist compulsion to remove unused metal, and probably wind up just
leaving things as they are. But I think I'd try a Dremel cutting wheel
first.

Garth, when I look down between my legs and see those inner ring shelves
rotating uselessly around, it irritates my aesthetic sense.

But my main question: Will 52/17 materially reduce chain friction over
46/15? In your plural experience?

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[RBW] Blue Lug Riv build video

[bob saunders]

You folks might enjoy the Riv Joe Appaloosa build video by Blue Lug 
Bicycles…they have quite a few videos posted on YouTube and their website 
is well done.

https://youtu.be/KN_9OxE4V6A

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone 1992 XO-2 (cross-posted to iBob)

[Joe Bernard]

Looks like a 59 but I don't see a size listed anywhere. 

On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 5:12:33 PM UTC-7 Ray wrote:

> Hello again everyone,
>
> It's been a couple of years since the kind folks in this forum helped me 
> pick out and build my ultimate townie/commuter. I have you to thank for 
> many happy hours of riding and bike-tinkering. However, my life and 
> priorities have changed a lot recently and I need to let this bike go 
> somewhere it can be better appreciated.
>
> A couple things: the bike is at this point fully custom, but I carefully 
> stored all of the original parts together and will include them all if you 
> purchase the bike as seen. If you want to buy only the original, that works 
> too. I will pass it on to you with the parts for you to build up yourself. 
> The bike does have some cosmetic damage but no dents and never been crashed.
>
> Complete bike as it currently exists: $950
> Only frame and all original parts: $350
>
> Would very much prefer local sale in Madison, WI and could meet you 
> somewhere nearby if you are driving in from surrounding areas. Can set up 
> shipping with my LBS if necessary but you will have to cover labor and 
> shipping costs.
>
> Full album here: 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lLitAXkuLrrM2FxfIqow9MXnOCCXkDQ?usp=sharing
>
> Build Details:
> -First of all, this is a 650b conversion. I used Box brakes to get the pad 
> height and they work flawlessly. Frame will take 650bx48 no problem. I've 
> had Switchback Hills on it in the past and they were great. Currently have 
> a pair of very lightly used Panaracer Paselas in 42mm.
> - Ahearne+Map Handlebar
> - Paul's Love Levers
> - Deore 9 speed rear der
> - Microshift shifter
> - SON Dynamo lights
> - Velo Orange front rack
> - Wheels: Custom built. Velocity Atlas rims to Deore rear hub. Front hub 
> is actually a Son disc hub that I already had.
> - Brooks B17 saddle
> - Velo range security skewers on front and rear hubs and Bicycle Bolts 
>  on the seatpost clamp (please remind me to 
> give you the tools for these. I will definitely forget)
>
> *QUIRKS (PLEASE READ): *When I purchased the bike I could not get the 
> seatpost to stop slipping. I tried everything. The bike came stock with a 
> 26.2mm seatpost and so I tried other 26.2mm seatposts and these slipped 
> too. Eventually, I was so frustrated that I bought one of these seatposts 
> 
>  
> in 26.4mm from Velo orange and had my LBS ream the seat tube so that it 
> fit. According to my mechanic this was very very slight. Like one turn with 
> the tool. Works very well now.
>

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[RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

[Nick Shoemaker]

I've always run 10sp Campy brifters with a Shimano 8sp cassette on my San 
Marcos. No funky cable trickery required, you just set them up like normal 
and end up with 7 functional clicks using any standard Shimano derailleur. 
I think it's far-and-away the most riv-ish option for brifters if you look 
for the alloy ones that look like this (the cutout lever is key!):


[image: PsPtM.jpg]

They are:

   - silver
   - conspicuously mechanical
   - fully rebuildable
   - confusing to the matchy-matchy sensibilities of Serious Cyclists™
   - different from nearly every other riv build
   - shifters



On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 10:33:11 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> [image: 8F29AEE8-D2A8-486C-948A-B8E8155FCE84.jpeg]
> This seems to be working pretty well.
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:03:00 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> While I get everyone trying to sell on you new parts and all Ben but it 
>> seems it's a cable routing issue. Why not call Riv and ask someone there as 
>> they've seen countless setups applicable to yours if you're not sure how to 
>> do a "super long" cable run ?  For that matter, the simplicity and 
>> universality of DT shifters is often overlooked. So you've got to move your 
>> body to shift, so ? ! 
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 2:57:10 PM UTC-4 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:02:35 AM UTC-7 shopmonkey 39 wrote:
>>>
 Here's some ideas based on personal experience as I have barends on a 
 handful of bikes.  First idea since you are already there, would be to 
 turn 
 your indexing off on your shifters.  I have this on a bike and it works 
 great in friction mode.


>>> I've tried this, and yeah, friction is a little better but still stiff.
>>>  
>>>
 Second idea.  If you are open to other models of drop bar, you can look 
 for something with more run out.  I switched to Soma Highway Ones and the 
 extra run out has allowed me to run cables that apex just before the 
 basket.

>>>
>>> I actually am running 42cm highway one bars. I'm not sure what you mean 
>>> by more run out. However, I'm thinking maybe I can do something like start 
>>> to run the housing out of the bar tape once the bar starts to curve upward. 
>>> This might make the shifter cables run upward out of the bars rather than 
>>> forward?
>>>  
>>>
 Fifth.  Gevenalle shifters.  I love these and they work great for 
 basket bikes and even sometimes saddlebag on the front bikes.  I would 
 choose it over STI everytime.

>>>
>>> I had considered these, but I wish I could try them first. I've never 
>>> seen them in real life.
>>>  
>>>

 Alot of this is based on the size of your bike, stem, bars, etc.  Also 
 keep in mind that STI depending on the size of your bike and bars can 
 sometimes hit your basket or bag.  I ran 44cm bars and occasionally if my 
 bag was stuffed it would be a struggle to shift.  

>>>
>>> This is a fantastic point. Shimano STIs on a set of 42cm wide bars with 
>>> a loaded front basket seems like a bad idea.  
>>>
>>> Thanks for your thoughts!
>>> Ben
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Advantages of front loading

[Patrick Moore]

Just curious, after adjusting my Ortlieb Sports Packers to the front
lowriders and carrying home about 12 bulky lbs on the front of the 2020
Matthews which is a geometrical clone of a 2003 Riv Road custom -- Riv lost
the geometry chart but I think it's med trail.

10 or 12 lb makes almost no difference in handling, but it does make
wheeling the bike one-handed (gripping stem and adjacent bar) through the
aisles less easy; 20 lb does slow the handling noticeably though not
impossibly. ~15 evenly divided is about the max for happiness.

Rear loads are more stable. 20 lb in the rear is not noticeable, 30 lb in
the rear affects handling less than 20 (evenly distributed) does in front,
and I've carried 45 with the bike still rideable. (For comparo, my best
rear loader was an early 1970s thinnish wall and normal gauge 531 framed
racing bike with long stays and shortish front-center: Motobecane Grand
Record. Though light and flexy, with a *very* stiff 400 gram Tubus Fly this
carried 45 better than any stouter-tubed road bike I've owned, including
any of 4 Riv road models (well, if a first-gen Sam Hill is "road). Another
nice rear grocery load carrier was an '80s Fuji Royale "12 speed" that
actually handled better with 20 lb in back than it did unladen; that one
hated front loads.

So, after that long windup, what is the benefit of front loading *on
Rivendell models*. Is it purely convenience?

And, different question: what is the benefit of front loading on *non-Rivendell
low-trail bikes*: convenience?

Just curious and describing my own experience.

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] New Roadinis will have clearance for 42 mm tires

[Patrick Moore]

The first gen Sams had cantilevers. Mine was Riv's floor model and came
with very wonderful IRD wide profile cantis; nicer in action and not far
behind in appearance compared to the much more expensive Pauls on my 2020
Matthews!


On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 8:38:54 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>
> ... But the Sam Hillborne also started with long reach brakes (like mine)
and eventually made its way to canti/V-brake posts so hopefully CHG goes
the same way and sooner than later.
>
> Abe

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[RBW] Re: Tange / IRD Needle Bearing Headset

['John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I used your #2 arrangement for mine.   The steel race is 'floating" per RBW 
description:  " There are steel floating races, the bearings are 
replaceable, it’s just---really, really good. "

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ  

On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 8:42:03 PM UTC-4 Greg J wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> Sorry about the cross-post from the iBob list.  But since this is going on 
> my 96 A/R, and Riv sells this (or similar) headset:
>
> I am installing the Tange/IRD headset with the needle bearing in the 
> bottom cup.  I am wondering about the order of the steel race insert (I 
> only have one, although I know that in the Stronglight headsets, there are 
> 2 per needle bearing).
>
> Does it go:   
> (1) Bottom cup - steel race - needle bearings - base plate, or 
> (2) Bottom cup - needle bearings - steel race - base plate ?
>
> Or did I lose one steel race, which should be on both sides of the needle 
> bearing?
>
> thanks,
> Greg
> Oakland, CA
>

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[RBW] Tange / IRD Needle Bearing Headset

[Greg J]

Hi folks,

Sorry about the cross-post from the iBob list.  But since this is going on 
my 96 A/R, and Riv sells this (or similar) headset:

I am installing the Tange/IRD headset with the needle bearing in the bottom 
cup.  I am wondering about the order of the steel race insert (I only have 
one, although I know that in the Stronglight headsets, there are 2 per 
needle bearing).

Does it go:   
(1) Bottom cup - steel race - needle bearings - base plate, or 
(2) Bottom cup - needle bearings - steel race - base plate ?

Or did I lose one steel race, which should be on both sides of the needle 
bearing?

thanks,
Greg
Oakland, CA

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[RBW] FS: Bridgestone 1992 XO-2 (cross-posted to iBob)

[Ray]

Hello again everyone,

It's been a couple of years since the kind folks in this forum helped me 
pick out and build my ultimate townie/commuter. I have you to thank for 
many happy hours of riding and bike-tinkering. However, my life and 
priorities have changed a lot recently and I need to let this bike go 
somewhere it can be better appreciated.

A couple things: the bike is at this point fully custom, but I carefully 
stored all of the original parts together and will include them all if you 
purchase the bike as seen. If you want to buy only the original, that works 
too. I will pass it on to you with the parts for you to build up yourself. 
The bike does have some cosmetic damage but no dents and never been crashed.

Complete bike as it currently exists: $950
Only frame and all original parts: $350

Would very much prefer local sale in Madison, WI and could meet you 
somewhere nearby if you are driving in from surrounding areas. Can set up 
shipping with my LBS if necessary but you will have to cover labor and 
shipping costs.

Full album here: 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lLitAXkuLrrM2FxfIqow9MXnOCCXkDQ?usp=sharing

Build Details:
-First of all, this is a 650b conversion. I used Box brakes to get the pad 
height and they work flawlessly. Frame will take 650bx48 no problem. I've 
had Switchback Hills on it in the past and they were great. Currently have 
a pair of very lightly used Panaracer Paselas in 42mm.
- Ahearne+Map Handlebar
- Paul's Love Levers
- Deore 9 speed rear der
- Microshift shifter
- SON Dynamo lights
- Velo Orange front rack
- Wheels: Custom built. Velocity Atlas rims to Deore rear hub. Front hub is 
actually a Son disc hub that I already had.
- Brooks B17 saddle
- Velo range security skewers on front and rear hubs and Bicycle Bolts 
 on the seatpost clamp (please remind me to 
give you the tools for these. I will definitely forget)

*QUIRKS (PLEASE READ): *When I purchased the bike I could not get the 
seatpost to stop slipping. I tried everything. The bike came stock with a 
26.2mm seatpost and so I tried other 26.2mm seatposts and these slipped 
too. Eventually, I was so frustrated that I bought one of these seatposts 

 
in 26.4mm from Velo orange and had my LBS ream the seat tube so that it 
fit. According to my mechanic this was very very slight. Like one turn with 
the tool. Works very well now.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Minty 2015 55CM Sam Hillborne

['Will Horton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

SOLD

On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 10:56:18 AM UTC-7 Will Horton wrote:

> Lower price bump with a cheaper build options offered
>
> $2100 - Complete as shown
>
> $1900 - Omit the paul racer brakes and substitute the original side pull 
> Tektro brakes for $200 credit
>
> $1900 - Omit the rack, bag and brooks leather saddle bag for $200 credit
>
> $1700 - Both options above combined
>
>
> On Saturday, August 27, 2022 at 2:08:59 PM UTC-7 Will Horton wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_4264.png]For Sale: Minty 2015 55CM Sam Hillborne.
>>
>> I got this bike over a year ago from the original owner, whose wife  
>> rarely rode it. I took the last year and made it my own. I have also barely 
>> ridden it, I should have held out for a 54CM. Everything works perfectly.
>>
>>- 55CM 2015 Sam Hillborne with stock FSA headset - Mint, almost new. 
>>One or two tiny chips at most in some hidden areas. 
>>- I'm 5'10" and have a 30" inseam (forgot my PBH)
>>   - Nitto front rack
>>- Brown Sackville bag
>>- Rivendell Fillet Face plater stem 110mm
>>- Brooks C17 Saddle
>>- Brooks leather saddle bag
>>- Choco bar
>>- Paul Racer Brakes, front and rear with fancy pads
>>- Diacompe SS-6 levers
>>- Sun XCD cranks in 172.5 46/30T rings
>>- Phil Wood BB
>>- Rivendell pedals
>>- M900 Derailleurs front and rear
>>- Microshift 9 speed shifters
>>- XT 11-34 9 speedcassette
>>- Ultegra, Open Pro wheels
>>- Super Vitesse tires
>>- SKS fenders (not shown)
>>- Have other Riv-ish parts just ask
>>- Willing to ship at cost
>>[image: IMG_4231.png]
>>[image: IMG_4233.png][image: IMG_4242.png][image: IMG_4244.png][image: 
>>IMG_4245.png][image: IMG_4252.png][image: IMG_4258.png]
>>
>>Total: $2250
>>located in Simi Valley CA
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stripping Black Parts and Burnishing

[Brian Turner]

I find it curious that many of us seem to own similar self-healing cutting 
mats. 

> On Sep 3, 2022, at 3:31 PM, Garth  wrote:
> 
> 
> While I love the idea of changing a black anodized part into a silver one, 
> I've never done it because of those particular kind of chemicals are like 
> insta-nausea to me.  I'd be more apt to sand and paint a part myself. I 
> painted some lugs of my '83 Stumpy with just Testors and a brush and it 
> remarkably remained in tact when I sold it some 10+ years ago. 
> 
> Do either of you leave the finish raw or do I apply some sort of gloss clear 
> coat ? My experience with raw aluminum hubs is they're great after polishing 
> but it doesn't last long so it's rather a never ending thing if you want it 
> consistently shiny. I ended up just leaving them turning that dull grey.  
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Stripping Black Parts and Burnishing

[Garth]

While I love the idea of changing a black anodized part into a silver one, 
I've never done it because of those particular kind of chemicals are like 
insta-nausea to me.  I'd be more apt to sand and paint a part myself. I 
painted some lugs of my '83 Stumpy with just Testors and a brush and it 
remarkably remained in tact when I sold it some 10+ years ago. 

Do either of you leave the finish raw or do I apply some sort of gloss 
clear coat ? My experience with raw aluminum hubs is they're great after 
polishing but it doesn't last long so it's rather a never ending thing if 
you want it consistently shiny. I ended up just leaving them turning that 
dull grey.  


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Re: [RBW] New Roadinis will have clearance for 42 mm tires

[Ryan]

Grand Cru do have a long-reach optionand are excellent paired with TRP 
brake levers in my opinion...have this combo on my Riv Road with Barlow 
Pass 32mm. Although...Velo-Orange brands 47-57mm as long reach and Roadini 
specs specify 63mm of reachtoo bad...so yeah I guess V-brakes or cantis 
would be more useful. Oh well

https://velo-orange.com/collections/brakes/products/grand-cru-long-reach-brakes

On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 1:59:29 PM UTC-6 Scott Calhoun wrote:

> Count me among those with no enthusiasm for 55-73mm long reach caliper 
> brakes. IME, much worse performance than medium 47-57mm reach brakes. In 
> the medium reach format, one has several high quality brake options: Velo 
> Orange Grand Cru, TRP 957, and Paul Racer M. In long reach calipers, 
> especially now that the Paul Racer regulars have been discontinued, there 
> are no high performance options to my knowledge.
>
> I would have prefered sticking with the medium reach, or going to canti 
> posts if wider than 38mm tires is a must.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 8:38:54 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>
>> I was excited for a Charles H Gallop too, but no v-brakes means I’m out. 
>> Wish I could snag that prototype, because that is just an ideal setup. 
>>
>> But the Sam Hillborne also started with long reach brakes (like mine) and 
>> eventually made its way to canti/V-brake posts so hopefully CHG goes the 
>> same way and sooner than later. 
>>
>> Abe
>>
>> On Sunday, 16 January 2022 at 09:38:06 UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah, I was really looking forward to the CHG, but the long reach brakes 
>>> kill it for me. 
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 16, 2022, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>>
 I am a little shocked that they are apparently bringing that change 
 over to the Charlie Gallop too. Instead of the V-brake/cantilever setup 
 that the previous prototype had. Since they are designing their own V 
 brakes that look to be quite nice it seems that they would push the bikes 
 toward that. The only reason I can think that they would make that change 
 is because sidepulls are a little more common on road style bikes. But 
 making a decision based only on aesthetics seems counter to how Rivendell 
 normally does things.

 On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 11:48:38 AM UTC-5 Linda G wrote:

> I'm so glad I bought my Roadini frame before this change! The 559 
> brakes do not work for me: poor power in dry conditions and unusable in 
> wet. I find that 33mm tires have plenty of cush and 42's would probably 
> create toe overlap on a 50 size frame. I'm grateful to have found a 
> Rivendell frame that works for me. 
> [image: DSC00040.JPG]
>
> On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 9:46:12 PM UTC-8 Eamon Nordquist wrote:
>
>> I saw today the announcement that the new Roadinis are niw designed 
>> for R559 brakes and will easily clear 42 mm tires. Good news, as far as 
>> I’m 
>> concerned! The only thing I am slightly sad about is that they aren’t 
>> coming in grilver, which is THE color for the Roadini, in my opinion. 
>> That 
>> may be influenced by my love for the silver gray imron paint on early 
>> 80’s 
>> Treks. Regardless, if I have a  job by then, I may have to get one.
>>
>> Eamon
>> Seattle 
>>
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 Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.

>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
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>>>
 To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3c59b174-a426-402b-92b5-d0571e4711een%40googlegroups.com
  
 
 .

>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Minty 2015 55CM Sam Hillborne

['Will Horton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Lower price bump with a cheaper build options offered

$2100 - Complete as shown

$1900 - Omit the paul racer brakes and substitute the original side pull 
Tektro brakes for $200 credit

$1900 - Omit the rack, bag and brooks leather saddle bag for $200 credit

$1700 - Both options above combined


On Saturday, August 27, 2022 at 2:08:59 PM UTC-7 Will Horton wrote:

> [image: IMG_4264.png]For Sale: Minty 2015 55CM Sam Hillborne.
>
> I got this bike over a year ago from the original owner, whose wife  
> rarely rode it. I took the last year and made it my own. I have also barely 
> ridden it, I should have held out for a 54CM. Everything works perfectly.
>
>- 55CM 2015 Sam Hillborne with stock FSA headset - Mint, almost new. 
>One or two tiny chips at most in some hidden areas. 
>- I'm 5'10" and have a 30" inseam (forgot my PBH)
>   - Nitto front rack
>- Brown Sackville bag
>- Rivendell Fillet Face plater stem 110mm
>- Brooks C17 Saddle
>- Brooks leather saddle bag
>- Choco bar
>- Paul Racer Brakes, front and rear with fancy pads
>- Diacompe SS-6 levers
>- Sun XCD cranks in 172.5 46/30T rings
>- Phil Wood BB
>- Rivendell pedals
>- M900 Derailleurs front and rear
>- Microshift 9 speed shifters
>- XT 11-34 9 speedcassette
>- Ultegra, Open Pro wheels
>- Super Vitesse tires
>- SKS fenders (not shown)
>- Have other Riv-ish parts just ask
>- Willing to ship at cost
>[image: IMG_4231.png]
>[image: IMG_4233.png][image: IMG_4242.png][image: IMG_4244.png][image: 
>IMG_4245.png][image: IMG_4252.png][image: IMG_4258.png]
>
>Total: $2250
>located in Simi Valley CA
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tektro R559 - Cable Anchor Bolt Replacement?

[JohnS]

Tim,

A 3rd hand brake tool is very handy when setting up side pull brakes like 
yours. As I recall, the trick is to have the brake adjuster turned out 3/4 
of the way as you pull the cable tight and then tighten the bolt. Remove 
the 3rd hand tool and turn the adjuster in until the brake pads are clear 
from the rim.

JohnS

On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 12:10:32 PM UTC-4 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:

> Generally speaking, I can at least confirm the anchor bolts can be 
> replaced, in a pinch (pun intended,) with a m5 bolt and washer.  I mention 
> this alternative simply because this is what I was forced to do after 
> foolishly taking a quick test ride mid-build after doing some parts 
> swapping while neglectfully leaving anchor bolts loosely attached after 
> cable removal with the prior bars and/or levers.  Of course one of them 
> rattled off somewhere along the way which I failed to notice until 
> attempting to finally install new cables.  I cannot say whether the current 
> bolt/washer is any better or worse than the stock anchor block with regard 
> to smushing or fraying or even securing the cable but it's been holding up 
> okay between several seasons on my r539 and I was at least happy to 
> discover an easy solution within the metric bolt jar.
>
> Brian
> Lawrence NJ
>
> On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 11:09:58 AM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault wrote:
>
>> Brilliant, Garth, thank you.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 2, 2022 at 2:49 AM Garth  wrote:
>>
>>> Without seeing the details of the stock R559 cable anchor I can't say if 
>>> it's replaceable, or even a groove could be formed with it as it is. Even 
>>> this detailed exterior image desn't really help as you gotta see the what's 
>>> inside. All that said though, certain cables are more prone to squashing 
>>> than others. Just because a cable gets squashed above or below the pinch 
>>> doesn't mean it will fray though, and fraying beyond the pinch bolt doesn't 
>>> matter anyways and it could be said the fraying at the end would help 
>>> prevent it from going through in the rare case of a anchor bolt failure. 
>>> Fraying above the pinch bolt *does *matter however and should be 
>>> replaced. You can overtighten cables though, or repeat it too often in 
>>> trying to get it "just right". Doing one good tightening motion is optimal. 
>>> You can "practice" how tight is just right with a cable your going to 
>>> replace.  That's the story at least .. 
>>>
>>>
>>> https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3207af92-894e-4cbf-a7cf-53247a041a71_1.7cdf7cfc5b00ffbbc12956fa9edcc530.jpeg
>>> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 9:08:37 PM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault wrote:
>>>
 Eh, I wouldn't want to degrade the mechanism in any way. 

 On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 4:15 PM Ben Adrian  wrote:

> Could a small cable channel be cut with something like a dremel? I've 
> never used these brakes, so I"m not sure if this is a possible 
> modification.
>
> Cheers!
> Ben
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 10:47:28 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
>
>> Remember that Stainless Steel cables require a different flux and 
>> solder than the older galvanized cables. The solder and flux for SS 
>> works 
>> on galvanized but not vice-versa.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 1:43:58 PM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the soldering idea- that’s great. On my particular 559s 
>>> there’s not one grove but three that seems to act as friction bites on 
>>> the 
>>> cable. 
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 10:39 lconley  wrote:
>>>
 You can solder the cable that goes in the anchor. You can still 
 crush the soldered cable, but the soldered cable will take more 
 clamping 
 force before it crushes.
 I also align the square washer so it contacts the cable along the 
 full length and keep the cable as close as possible to the bolt. There 
 is a 
 semi-concave groove somewhere in there as I recall.

 Laing

 On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 1:01:25 PM UTC-4 Tim Tetrault 
 wrote:

> Hi Folks, 
>
> I have a 2012 Sam that uses Tektro R559 side pull canti's with a 
> square "smush" style anchor bolt for the brake cable. (See picture)
>
> Trouble is I generally fray or smush the brake cable more than I'd 
> like. Can one replace these with something that has a little bit more 
> of a 
> "pocket" for the cable, so I can adjust as the pads wear with less 
> smushing/fraying?
>
> Something like this- 
> https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Part-Anchor-Bolt-Tektro/dp/B0047MCLUE
>
> Maybe the answer is I get one of those 'third hand' brake tools to 
> really seat it in there better when installing...
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Tim

[RBW] WTB: Used broken in B17 or B17 imperial brown

['Joel S' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Looking for a used B17 or B17 Imperial, brown saddle, broken in but in good 
condition, silver rails a plus. 
I will be cross posting this. 

Please PM me. 

Thanks. 

Joel

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[RBW] Re: New Roadinis will have clearance for 42 mm tires

[Michael Doleman]

This is an old thread, but having just scored a 50cm Roadini for my 
partner, I thought I'd respond. The need for long reach brakes concerned me 
slightly, but in the end decided that with all the factors involved, it 
would be fine: bike is small, partner doesn't weigh much (125 or so), the 
bike isn't going to handle any big loads, and we aren't going to be doing 
harrowing descents). What I have opted to get for brakes is a set of the 
Dia-Compe/Gran-Compe GC700 model. I have both the GC610 and GC450 on other 
bikes, and I feel that they offer very good performance with quality brake 
pads -- better, I'm sure, than a long reach side pull. That said, I have 
also used the Tektro R559 and found them to be basically fine so long as 
they are outfitted with something other than the stock pads. They may be a 
little less than ideal in wet conditions but overall I think they are fine. 
And, if you don't need the extra clearance, it's always possible to use a 
drop bolt--which are hard to find, admittedly, but they are out there. The 
GC700 is also a little difficult to find, and a bit on the expensive side, 
at better than $200 for a set. And if you're willing to go even higher than 
that, there's always the Rene Herse model.

Part of me wonders if the GC610 would actually work. They are specified to 
have -- I think -- 61mm of reach, which is only 2mm short of what the 
Roadini spec says it needs. Perhaps with the right pad? I don't know. I 
have a free set of the 610s available, so will try it when the new Roadini 
arrives and report back here on findings.

On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 9:46:12 PM UTC-8 Eamon Nordquist wrote:

> I saw today the announcement that the new Roadinis are niw designed for 
> R559 brakes and will easily clear 42 mm tires. Good news, as far as I’m 
> concerned! The only thing I am slightly sad about is that they aren’t 
> coming in grilver, which is THE color for the Roadini, in my opinion. That 
> may be influenced by my love for the silver gray imron paint on early 80’s 
> Treks. Regardless, if I have a  job by then, I may have to get one.
>
> Eamon
> Seattle 
>

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[RBW] WTB: Bullmoose Handlebar

[iamkeith]

Looking for a bullmoose handlebar if anyone has one that they're not 
using.  Just to be clear since there are a number ov variations out there, 
I'm specifically wanting the Rivendell / Quill stem / Fillet-brazed / 
Dull-brite Version with un-cut, full-length ends. 

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