Re: [RBW] Winter cycling pants

2013-10-05 Thread David T.


I am a Canadian from Northern Ontario. 

Cold on your knees may not be a cause of your knee pain. Putting wraps and 
bandages on might just make it feel worse. 

You don't need much on your legs. Above about 7 degrees celsius ( 45 
degrees fahrenheit ) shorts are appropriate. I love seeing the ride reports 
from the beautiful States but I notice that people sometimes overdress 
there. 

For outdoor activities, a pair of light wool dress pants can't be beat. 
Second hand, or even an old pair from a marrying and burying suit. You 
don't need to buy any cycling- or sports-specific legwear. 

For really cold weather, the most you would need is a pair of long johns 
with some kind of synthetic layer over. If you get cold, pedal harder. If 
you start to sweat too much, slow down or rest until you cool to the right 
level. 

Keep cycling and maybe do some resistance/weight training to build up your 
quads and hamstrings; that will help with most knee problems. 





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Re: [RBW] Re: Another perspective, by George!

2012-12-11 Thread David T.
Is this part of the whole paleo thing?


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Re: [RBW] Headwinds bummer....need tips...

2012-09-23 Thread David T.

Hills go up, and hills go down, but the wind never pays back its debts. 




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[RBW] Re: Beautiful 68cm Rivendell Bombadil

2012-09-13 Thread David T.

Maybe if you take the photograph from a slightly different angle it will 
straighten the fork. 


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[RBW] A Minor Modification

2012-09-09 Thread David T.
 

I have really been enjoying the Albatross bars on my Atlantis, the whole 
bike seems to have fallen together. 

I like having a mirror, it allows me to relax because I don’t have to 
wonder what might be gaining on me. But I didn’t want to squander any of 
that prime real estate on the bars. So I decided to mount the mirror on the 
brake lever body. 

The only problem was I didn’t get a good view except of my hand and my left 
hip, which wasn’t very interesting to look at after a while. So I chopped 
the mirror, leaving the stalk and the ball and socket, and gave it a longer 
stalk, made of fine Canadian aluminum. 

By cutting the fine Canadian aluminum just right you can choose the angle 
it sticks out at. I suggest a rakish angle. 

Now it juts proudly into the lane and I have a clear view of all that is 
behind me.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/51518228@N06/7965501392/in/set-72157631487256056



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Re: [RBW] A Minor Modification

2012-09-09 Thread David T.


On Sunday, September 9, 2012 5:11:09 PM UTC-4, LyleBogart{AT}gmail.com 
wrote:

 Nice work, David! Personally, I'm not a mirror fan but I can certainly 
 appreciate them. How solidly do the zip ties hold the mirror? Is there much 
 vibration out at the mirror end?

 Cheers!

 lyle

 P.S.: Nice Atlantis :)

 -- 
 lyle f bogart dpt


 


 The mirror is on absolutely solid. Just as well as with the original 
 clamp. I didn't think it was going to work so well, I thought I might have 
 to put some glue on there to help it, but it wasn't necessary. I have been 
 riding it for several weeks on roads and trails and it doesn't budge. If 
 you look at how I drilled the holes, the zip ties hold it in tension 
 against the flat part of the brake. The stalk of the mirror is glued into 
 the aluminum tubing with epoxy glue. The ball and socket still works to 
 adjust the mirror. 


There is no vibration to speak of, no more than with the original mirror, 
which I never notice. 

David

 
 

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[RBW] Re: Nine Speed Friction Ghost Shifting Reconsidered.

2012-08-25 Thread David T.


  

I was thinking the other day, it is remarkable in this day and age when we 
can pretend to put a man on the moon, we can’t get derailleurs to shift 
just right. 

:-) 

If it is the rear derailleur ghost shifting, it may be that the shifter 
isn’t tightened enough. Or there is too much extraneous friction between 
the shifter and derailleur, but with downtube shifter that shouldn’t be 
hard to clean up. 

If it is the front derailleur, with silver shifters it will shift onto the 
smaller chainwheel if you stand and grind up a hill. Get a shimano-7700, it 
has a spring to prevent that from happening. 

 

 

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[RBW] Something I learned today

2012-07-14 Thread David T.
You learn a lot about the fit of your bike when it is a very hot day, you 
are exhausted, and you still have a long way to ride until you get home. 


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[RBW] Re: tektro cr720 installation advice

2012-05-11 Thread David T.


Since working on a bike is a relaxing, meditative activity isn't it
sometimes good if things take a little time to set up and adjust?

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-17 Thread David T.


Thank you for the suggestions.

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[RBW] What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-15 Thread David T.
What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement? Or
some good ones?



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[RBW] Re: New Portland bike shop

2012-03-26 Thread David T.


...I frankly think a big barrier to
community is the dork factor that comes out.  I'm not talking bike
nerd
stuff - but seriously wonky dorky vehicular cyclists (often men) who
are
just turn-offs to so many new riders. 

Could you give an example of a dorky cyclist? I am starting to worry
now that if I look a little bit dorky, I might be turning off
potential cyclists. Am I part of the problem???

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[RBW] Re: Commuting home on the Saluki raises bike etiquette question!

2012-03-26 Thread David T.


And I am *NEVER* going to get into an argument/shouting match with a
 motorist at a traffic light.

This sounds like an excellent policy, but seriously, how do you do it?
If someone honks at you and you are both sitting there, how do you
manage not to turn around and say a few choice words? I don't ask this
facetiously. What is your secret?

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[RBW] Did we ever find out what H.S. stood for?

2012-02-28 Thread David T.
Maybe I missed it.

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[RBW] Re: Did we ever find out what H.S. stood for?

2012-02-28 Thread David T.

Ha ha, keeping with the Francophile theme. Thanks for the shout-outs
to Nanook and Paddle to the Sea too. We used to watch that movie every
year on the last day of school, we all had to sit on the hard floor of
the auditorium. I remember my leg would always fall asleep during it.
It was a good time though.

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne in progess and a question

2012-02-20 Thread David T.


The bars aren't even all that high. Don't worry if your bike doesn't
precisely match the standards of internet orthodoxy.
:-)

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[RBW] Terminological Inexactitude

2012-02-20 Thread David T.
There seems to be a notion that a bike frame can be “sprightly” or
“lively”. On the other hand, a frame can supposedly be “sluggish.” I
assume this means that the tubing is more or less flexible. Does
flexible tubing make a bike more sprightly? Couldn’t you just as well
call it “floppy” or “saggy?” Can a bike even be sprightly, after all
it just sits there unless someone gets on it and pedals. Does flexible
tubing even make a bicycle faster, or more efficient to pedal? If it
does then why do the sprinters use bikes that are as stiff as
possible?

There are words used to describe bicycles that are starting to lose
their meaning.

“Comfy” gets used a lot, to describe handlebars, tires, handlebar
tape, saddles; even whole bikes probably. I think it has come to mean
upholstered or padded in some way, but that isn’t always the most
comfortable. For example I find a single wrap of cloth tape with a
single coat of shellac to be the easiest on my hands…but that wouldn’t
be “comfy” would it? It brings to mind the dreaded “comfort bike”
which is maybe comfortable to sit on inside the bike shop, but not to
ride from point A to point B if point A and point B are more than
about half a mile apart.

“Relaxed Geometry”: This has some basis in reality, but can a geometry
really be relaxed? If you push it too far, it isn’t relaxing. ( I
actually like how it gets expanded as “slack” geometry, “forgiving”…or
is that “forgiving” steel tubing? It bet it’s not too forgiving if
someone get whacked on the forehead with it. Would you be forgiven for
that?) You could turn it around and call it “acute angle” or “sharp
angle” geometry, but that doesn’t sound very relaxing. Plus for
someone riding a time trial bike, they may be more relaxed with a more
“open” geometry ( i.e. a steeper  seat tube angle. ) I guess the
ultimate “relaxed” geometry is the recumbent bike, which indeed is a
relaxed position, until the first time you try to ride up a hill and
you immediately want to go back to your more uptight upright bike.

“Quick” geometry, which tends to be another way of saying a short
chainstay.  This makes the bike turn quicker, but it tends to get
muddled with thinking that the bike will go quicker or faster, which
of course makes no sense at all. ( Just think of boats and drag racing
cars, the fastest ones are long and narrow, so instead of “quick”
geometry you could call it “slow” or “meandering” geometry…once again,
how can geometry be “quick?” ) Oh, I almost forgot about quick
steering...why do I always want my steering to be as slow as
possible?

If you read the reviews of some bicycles they are almost as bereft of
meaning as one of those fine wine descriptions...eager,
aggressive,  responsive, nuanced, what's next, insouciant?

“Supple” tires….no comment.

There are lots more of these, does anyone know what I am talking
about? It’s a holiday…

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[RBW] Re: Terminological Inexactitude

2012-02-20 Thread David T.

I forgot about bombproof. This is often used in reference to tents as
well, although if I were being bombed I think a tent would be the last
place I would go.

And I forgot one of my favourites, the laid-back seatpost. It sounds
like the hippy of seatposts, relaxed, non-aggressive. Probably quite
forgiving too. ( I actually have one of these on my bike, just knowing
it is there puts me in a mellower mood. )

:-)

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis vs. Sam

2012-02-04 Thread David T.
I just got an Atlantis. I have been riding it every day, since the
weather here has been unseasonably warm.

The Atlantis is not slow. (There are a lot of good things I could say
about it, you know how it is when you get a new bike. But that isn't
the topic at hand.)

The major factors limiting your speed are air resistance, and the
power you  can generate.

The weight of tubing is inconsequential.

I haven't ridden a Sam Hillborne, it looks like a great bike.

But the Atlantis is not sluggish.



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[RBW] Re: Last of its kind.

2012-01-30 Thread David T.
I haven't seen the Ogre in person. It looks like a good bike, it may be 
more bike than I need. 

With the Surlys the fork is the same length in each size, so you are 
limited in how high you can get your handlebars. I solved that problem with 
the Wald #803 handlebar: Over 5 inches of rise, about 69 cm wide. Fine 
Corinthian steel. You should see that thing plane. 


On Monday, 30 January 2012 12:56:34 UTC-5, HappyCamper wrote:

 That Atlantis is amazing.

 Have you seen the Ogre? It's like the troll but they actually make a size 
 for us tall people.

 - Ryan




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[RBW] Re: Last of its kind.

2012-01-29 Thread David T.
The metal studs are quite sharp. I had those tires so I put them on
for now, once my Marathon Supreme 40's come in I will put them on and
not ride it in the winter.

I have used studded tires for a few seasons, I have Ice Spikers on my
Troll. I kind of carry the bike when I bring it in, I don't roll it
across the floor. The other thing with the studs is that when you are
changing the tire I find you have to be careful or you can cut your
hand on the spikes.

On Jan 29, 3:48 pm, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
 Sweet bike!  May you ride it in good health.

 It looks to me like you have studded tires on it - have you had problems
 with the studs chewing up your wood floors?  curious as i added studded
 tires to my sam this winter for the first time and am worried about rolling
 the bike/leaving it on the hardwood floor.

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[RBW] Re: Last of its kind.

2012-01-29 Thread David T.
For me, the highest gear I can effectively use for any extended length
of time on flat ground is around 85 gear inches. If I go higher than
that, my cadence slows down, I feel like I am going faster, but my
speed doesn't actually go up. And I don't think of myself as a slow
rider.  So even having a 40/11 is not entirely necessary for me. Plus
the small cogs are not as efficient. It is nice to have a higher gear
when you are going downhill and want to rest a bit, and pedal at a
lower cadence so you keep your balance. A lot of this is theoretical.

The cassette is 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28. It cost around 30 dollars and
it seems to be a good cassette. The 15 matches up with where I usually
like to do most of my riding, and it is a good chainline with the big
chainring so it rides smoothly and quietly there. I enjoy planning
these things, I don't know how many times I have used Sheldon's Gear
Calculator ( and how many times I have forgotten to  select gear
inches and have the results come out in gain ratio ) but there are
a lot of options that would have worked fine.



On Jan 29, 5:42 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I thought the 66 would look awkward, too but your bike looks great. Even the 
 basket is perfectly proportioned.
 I'm very curios about the drivetrain. A 40/11 is 99 gear inches, right at the 
 100 that Grant (and my own experience) suggests is the most you'd need for 
 everyday riding. I've been struggling to find the right cassette to use with 
 more typical 46 or 48t rings, which render the 11 almost useless for wimpy 
 peddlers like me, but your  solution to use the QB crank seems ideal!

 Pete
 SingleSixtySidepullSam... and QB.

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[RBW] Re: Intro from new Riv rider

2012-01-29 Thread David T.

I was going to say nice bike but I think awe-inspiring would be
more accurate. I got my Rivendell because I couldn't find anyone else
who designs bikes for tall people. I think they cover small people as
well.

I wonder if that is the biggest production bike they have made?


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[RBW] Re: Last of its kind.

2012-01-29 Thread David T.
Thanks Leslie, I appreciated it when you put up the notice that the
frame was available. Hope you are having good weather down South.





On Jan 29, 10:01 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Saturday, January 28, 2012 7:34:33 PM UTC-5, David T. wrote:

  This is my new 66 cm Atlantis, I got the frame from Mountain Sports in
  Virginia. They were nice people to deal with, thanks Steve.

 Very tickled to see this work out so well for ya

 :)

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[RBW] Re: QB Bottom Bracket

2012-01-28 Thread David T.

My Quickbeam came with a 113 mm shimano BB UN-54 bottom bracket. This
was not the first run but I can’t see that it would make a difference.
With the Sugino Quickbeam crankset this gave a 48 mm chainline for the
large ring ( i.e. the middle ring of an equivalent Sugino XD. ) I
always rode in the large ring and never noticed that there was a
problem. Only after a few years did I measure.  I believe the shimano
freewheel gives close to a 43 mm chainline on the Suzue rear hub.

Even if you used a common 107 mm bottom bracket with the Quickbeam
crank the large ring would still be outboard of the freewheel. I ended
up transferring the 113 mm bottom bracket to another bike ( an
atlantis that I am slowly building up as the snow slowly falls and my
neighbour incessantly shovels his driveway), and I then used a 108 mm
Phil Wood bottom Bracket with a Sugino RD crank, moved over a little
which the Phil bottom bracket allows. This gives a better chainline. I
think a 103 mm bottom bracket with a Sugino RD would be just about
perfect.  But once again, I never noticed a problem in the first
place, the drivetrain was always nice and quiet.

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[RBW] Re: San Marco vs Sam Hillborne

2012-01-28 Thread David T.
It probably rides in a sprightly manner, playfully beckoning you to
push further. Whereas your Sam Hillborne likely has an assured air
about it, yet retaining a hint of aggressiveness when faced with a
challenging situation. ( I assume, never having ridden your Hillborne
with 32’s. )  Of course this all depends on how flat the road you are
riding on is, since even a slight slope changes all of the angles.

( Sorry, but you said anyone. :-) )

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Re: [RBW] Last of its kind.

2012-01-28 Thread David T.
Yes, it is a 40/28 with an 11-28 cassette. There aren't any long hills 
around here, so I won't even really need that many gears. Some of them are 
just there for moral support. 


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[RBW] Re: Last of its kind.

2012-01-28 Thread David T.
I could have used the usual let it all hang out routing, but it impinged 
a bit on the space of the basket. For some reason I didn't like having all 
the cable under the handlebar tape, so thought I would try something 
different.  It's winter so I have time for that sort of thing. :-)


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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Related Science Project Ideas

2012-01-28 Thread David T.
How about the effect of tread on traction? He could compare a slick tire to 
one with a tread, maybe in wet and dry conditions. There are  different 
ways you could measure traction, some methods wouldn't even require 
riding a bike. The challenging part would be for him to define what he 
meant by traction, and devise a way to measure it. 

On the other hand, at the grade six level maybe you should just let him 
come up with the question, no matter how simple it is? My son has done 
these kinds of projects, I had lots of ideas of my own but I let him think 
of what he wanted to test, then asked him questions about how he would do 
it. He was happy to do the project that way, because it was his own idea. 



 

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[RBW] Re: Supernova E3 tail light opinions

2012-01-22 Thread David T.

Flashing lights: Getting the attention of drivers is important. But if
your lights and reflectors provide enough visibility to motorists, I
think it can detract from safety to have the rear or front lights
flashing. I know that when I am on my bike, or driving, I have a
harder time clearly seeing other bikes who have flashing lights. I
can’t tell how far away they are. In some cases I can’t tell exactly
what they are for a split second.  So I just have two steady rear
lights and two steady headlights, and extensive reflectors, and I wear
a reflective vest. I think I am actually more visible at night than in
the day, at least from the way that vehicles respond when they see me.
I could be wrong about this, but that is my feeling.

I want to be seen, but I don’t want to alarm motorists. I want to be
seen as a slow moving vehicle, part of the normal traffic, not
something that provokes alarm. So immediately the motorist knows he is
dealing with a bicycle, and all he needs to do is pass when it is safe
to do so. It is easy to pass a bicycle, and it doesn’t slow down the
overall progress of cars, because they can quickly make up the time. A
bicycle causes much less disruption to traffic than a large slow
moving vehicle, and I think most motorists gradually learn that. For
the same reason, it helps to take the same route when you are
commuting, because you will encounter the same group of drivers to a
large extent, and they will get used to your presence.  The last thing
I want is for the driver to be alarmed, for example if he slams on the
brakes or is taken out of his comfort zone and reacts. I definitely
don’t want them to be  “blinded” or disoriented by flashing lights.
That would put me in danger.

Flashing lights are associated with emergency vehicles, pulling over,
stopping, danger. I don’t want those associations suddenly hitting the
semi-consciousness of drivers pulling up behind me. Most of them can
handle it, but there are enough poor drivers that the odd one will do
something stupid. I try to make life easier for the cars, only because
that makes my life easier. Just my two cents on flashing lights. ( or
about a quarter with inflation )




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[RBW] Re: new bars spy shot-- Alba-moose?

2012-01-22 Thread David T.
Montana?

Palooka?



On Jan 22, 4:26 pm, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
 It's a Joe-something-a! Well now I HAVE to have one. ;-)

 Joe Something
 Vallejo, CA.

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[RBW] Re: Odd New Bike: Built, Explained

2012-01-17 Thread David T.
How often is a new frame designed at the same time as a new handlebar?
I really like that idea; people talk about trail, geometry etc. of a
frame, but so much of the feel and steering depends on the handlebar
and the stem, so to have the frame and handlebar designed for each
other makes a lot of sense, but I don’t think it happens very often.

I also like the part about using this bike for one purpose, which
frees up your other bikes. If you have two or three bikes, the way you
set one of them up influences the way you can set up the others. In
other words, if you have one bike that can handle commuting, getting
groceries etc. then you maybe you can take the fenders and basket off
another bike and it becomes your sport bike, or imaginary racing
machine.

I don’t really need this kind of bike right now, but it is kind of fun
to critique bike design, even though it isn’t the same as actually
knowing how to build them, or having that skill or experience. It
isn’t to judge how a bike was designed, or criticize, but as a
bicycling enthusiast it is interesting to talk about the geometry and
design of frames, more as an appreciation.


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[RBW] Re: bigger Atlantises, other frames at MSL

2011-12-17 Thread David T.
Hey Leslie, thanks for the alert. I had been looking for a 66 cm Atlantis, 
I just called and ordered it. 


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Re: [RBW] Odd New Bike: Built, Explained

2011-12-09 Thread David T.
Home run. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Odd New Bike (HS)

2011-12-05 Thread David T.
 

Couldn’t it be a choice between single speed and cassette? 

 

Whatever it is, it is a great looking frame. 



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[RBW] OK, I'll bite

2011-08-12 Thread David T.
Whatever happened to The Mystery Bike? The one you had to buy sight
unseen. I've been waiting for the other shoe to drop.

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[RBW] Re: HS

2011-06-21 Thread David T.


I think HS will stand for Harry Salisbury, or maybe Hank Snow.
Something along those lines.

It will be a bike for riding in the city, doing errands and picking
things up. Racks for carrying items. Single front chainring with a
chainguard of some sort.

Large tires, expanded frame; because it is coming in only three sizes.
Based on the “underpaint elegance” remark it will probably incorporate
some kind of diagonal tube or reinforcing, something unusual in the
frame shape.

When do we find out if we guessed right?

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[RBW] Re: Lawyer Lips?

2011-05-08 Thread David T.
It’s too bad, reading the latest Knothole entry on the Rivendell
website, Grant appears to be stressed out, probably about that legal
case he refers to in RR 43. (It would be funny, considering that a
gaggle of lawyers are working feverishly, perhaps even referring to
“lawyer lips” in their written arguments—except it’s not that funny
when someone is getting dragged into court over something that was
made diligently 20 years ago.)

It is ironic that he would get tied up in something like that. He has
been a proponent of bicycle safety, although he doesn’t necessarily
call it that. It is implicit in the design of his bikes that there is
always a “factor of safety” built in, in other words they are if
anything a little over-built, so that failure of the bike or one of
its parts won’t cause an injury. That’s really one of the main
distinguishing features of his designs, compared to other bikes you
can buy. When I am descending at high speed on my Rivendell, I often
think to myself, this is dangerous but it is nice to know that I am on
the best possible bike for this purpose. In all of Grant’s
“velosophy”, whether it is about bigger tires, steel forks, riding
styles, you name it, there is always an unspoken understanding that
safety is one of the fundamentals.

It’s too bad but that is the way things go sometimes; someone who
dedicates a lot of their life to protecting something gets accused of
neglecting it.

{I guess the legal point is whether Lawyer Lips make a bike safer, and
even if they do whether a bike without them is safe enough. It all
gets very complicated because Grant is the expert on these things, and
he may not have thought that Lawyer Lips made a bike safer. [The ones
on the bike, not the ones on the lawyers.] But as an employee of
Bridgestone, it sounds like it wasn’t even his decision. The RB-1 was
advertised as a racing bike, so it was designed to get the wheel off
quickly. For Pete’s sake, he even had an article on how to use the
Quick Release in one of the Bridgestone catalogues. What else could he
have done? Surely the operator of any vehicle has to take
responsibility for ensuring that the wheels are fastened on as they
were designed to be.[Maybe Grant should get his own lawyer independent
of the Bridgestone lawyer?(After all, he was acting in good faith as
an employee and stood to gain nothing whether or not lawyer's lips
were used. Awww, what a mess.)]}








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[RBW] Re: Anyone else have trouble measuring their PBH?

2011-04-25 Thread David T.
Does anyone else just measure their existing saddle height and add
10?
Seems way simpler, if you are already a bike rider.

I thought this was how everyone determined their PBH.
Or, you can use the stick and tape measure, and when you get a reading
that equals your saddle height plus 10, go with that.
:-)





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[RBW] Re: After the Flood

2011-03-11 Thread David T.

This is London, Ontario. It snowed last night, so this is what it
looked like today:

http://tinyurl.com/4aykcgd


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[RBW] After the Flood

2011-03-10 Thread David T.
If you have 6 1/2 minutes with nothing better to do, this may be of
interest.

http://tinyurl.com/4rxst8c



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[RBW] Re: New News Post

2011-01-08 Thread David T.

Vilhjalmur Stefansson, the arctic explorer, pioneered and tested a
high meat, high fish, low carb diet, based on what he learned from the
Inuit. In 1930 he published a study in the Journal of the American
Medical Association describing how he and a colleague lived on a diet
of only meat for one year.

http://www.jbc.org/content/87/3/651.full.pdf

(I see the study was partly funded by the Institute of American Meat
Packers.)

He also had a way of traveling across country by foot in the coldest
conditions: he would walk or run until he felt himself start to get
overheated. Then he would lie down on the snow to rest, and sometimes
even drift off to sleep. When his body cooled down enough he would
naturally wake, and then get up for another stretch of activity. The
key was not to allow himself to get overheated and sweaty, and that
way he avoided hypothermia.

Does this relate to Rivendell bicycles, or even the topic at hand? Not
necessarily. Just thought I would throw it out there.






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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Vindicated Once Again

2010-12-24 Thread David T.
Things 'look
good' because they are functional.

Amen. You could write a book on that. Someone probably has. And to all
a good night.

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[RBW] Re: Cold Weather Eye Protection

2010-12-12 Thread David T.


A good combination is to wear a peaked cap with a good sized peak
under your helmet, and either a pair of eyeglasses or sunglasses. You
can angle the peak down which helps to keep the wind and snowflakes
out of your eyes, and also protects your face. I have a nice insulated
peaked cap with ear flaps. I take the foam pads out of the helmet and
it fits quite well. My head doesn’t get too hot or cold.

The glasses are sometimes better than goggles when you are exerting
yourself, they won’t fog up while you are outside. The sunglasses worn
by cross-country skiers would work well. Ski goggles are good for
downhill skiing, but when you are producing a lot of body heat they
can fog up. That is why you don’t typically see cross-country skiers
wearing goggles.

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[RBW] Spikes

2010-12-12 Thread David T.
My Quickbeam with 40mm Marathon Winter studded tires.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51518...@n06/5254580852/in/set-72157625582584196/

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[RBW] Re: Spikes

2010-12-12 Thread David T.
You are absolutely right, Ray. Right now I am just using the higher
gear. With the 40 mm tires, there is clearance at the back, except I
am limited in how far I can move the tire forward, because it butts up
against the kickstand plate when I slide it forward. That means when I
slide it all the way back in the lower gear, I run out of fork end,
and the chain is a bit slack in the lower gear. It would probably be
fine but I'm not used to riding with a slack chain so for now I am
just leaving it in one gear. I will try the lower gear again  when I
have time, and move the fender back accordingly.





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[RBW] Re: Spikes

2010-12-12 Thread David T.
Hey Joel, the winters are pretty mild where I live in Southwestern
Ontario. But we had a blizzard earlier this week, everything shut
down, the schools were closed for three days. I did not ride my bike
during that time.

There are a lot of places in the States that have more severe winters
than where I am. A lot of times during the winter here, the roads are
fairly clear. Other times there is snow on them. I have a couple of
short sections on my commute where I need to ride on trails, those are
the tough places. One good thing about riding on snow is that it
really builds up your leg strength.

On the subject of flats: I never get them. In fact I am not sure if I
have ever had a flat. I remember repairing a tube once when I was a
lot younger, but I don’t think it went flat while I was riding. Now I
use really good tires, but even when I didn’t, I never had a problem.
I even toured on my bicycle at one time, using only the cheapest tires
available, and had no flats. At the time I didn’t know that tires were
supposed to go flat.

Although I did have a number of flat tires on a Lada in Jamaica once.
That was inconvenient.


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[RBW] Dropouts

2010-11-17 Thread David T.
Why do all current Rivendell non-custom bikes except the Quickbeam/
Simpleone have vertical dropouts?

It looks like at one time they used horizontal dropouts, based on
this:

http://www.sandsmachine.com/bp_riv.htm

The rationale given for horizontal dropouts at that time seems pretty
sound. Plus they allow you to set the bike up as a single speed if you
want.

Just something I was wondering about on a dreary November day as I
should be getting ready for work.





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[RBW] Re: Rivy takes to the trails

2010-11-07 Thread David T.
Great pictures. Those trails look really nice, there is hardly any
erosion on them. Just out of curiosity, why are there no trees on
those hills? Is that the natural state or has it previously been
logged?



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[RBW] Re: Rust Never Sleeps

2010-10-24 Thread David T.
Yeah, it’s not really explosive, just the can it comes in. That was
just an attempt at humour. Otherwise sheep would be blowing up left
and right.

But it does seem like good stuff. It forms a coating on metal, and it
doesn’t flow off. The company makes a lot of claims for it, that is
their business of course. But it is nice to be able to work with
something that is not poisonous. I am going to put some on the outer
parts of my bike this winter too. Salt on the roads can corrode
aluminum too.

Last year I tried to use my Quickbeam sparingly in winter to preserve
it. But I have decided to not worry about it from now on. I will see
year by year how it stands up. I think the frame will still last a
long time, I have seen lots of old frames that have been around for 30
years or longer in this area and they are still fine.

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[RBW] Rust Never Sleeps

2010-10-23 Thread David T.
Anyone ever use this stuff?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51518...@n06/5107715428/

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[RBW] Re: Rust Never Sleeps

2010-10-23 Thread David T.
The can says Bobcaygeon, Ontario which is pretty Canadian. But I
think that is just the location of the distributor.

It is made from Lanolin. I have sprayed it in the frames of two of my
bikes. It is food grade, non-toxic, and also explosive, kind of a
nice combination.



On Oct 23, 12:21 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is it Canadian?


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[RBW] Re: Cycling in Northern Winters

2010-10-17 Thread David T.
Conditions can change so much from hour to hour in the winter.
Sometimes the snow is hard and iced over in the morning, then by
afternoon it has softened and the going is really slow.

I ride my bike to work in the winter. Last winter it was a combination
of a mountain bike with spiked tires on some days, and my Quickbeam on
others.

I don’t find plain ice to be too much of a challenge, if it is flat.
The bike tends to keep going in a straight line if you let it. I can
ride on flat ice on my Marathon Supremes.

The difficult stuff is snow that has been walked on, and then frozen
over. It is very rough and hard as concrete, the front end bounces
around, you have to wrestle the bike and be ready to hop off at any
time.

Also, heavy soft snow that has been churned up by cars is not much
fun. At first you think you can’t go ten feet, then you go ten feet,
then you start to get a feel for it and eventually you finish the
trip. It demands so much concentration, you have to steer constantly
just to keep the front end going in the right direction.

I think these conditions make you a better cyclist, you learn to steer
by applying some torque to the rear wheel at just the right time. The
experienced mountain bikers would probably feel right at home.

But I do agree with the comments about drivers in winter, you have to
be ultra-defensive, allowing for the fact that cars now can skid
through a turn, and you have to constantly anticipate their potential
path and position yourself out of that zone.  I have learned a
strategy of avoidance in all seasons, I ride on streets that have
hardly any traffic, I avoid confrontations with cars, and try to avoid
doing anything that challenges them or causes them inconvenience. I
even avoid talking about how bad car drivers are, because most of them
are hopeless.

I think the biggest change in winter is the concentration that must be
on the whole time. It is not relaxing, but at the same time it allows
no other thoughts to intrude. When you do get the occasional calm
moment, like riding home in the evening when it is dark and quiet, it
can be really beautiful.

I am putting 40 mm Marathon Winter spiked tires on my Quickbeam this
winter, and fenders, which will let me ride on almost all days if I
want to. I will use the big chainring for mild days, of which there
are a lot here, and the small one for days with heavier snow. I will
post pictures once the bad weather is here.


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[RBW] Re: Getting Ready for Winter

2010-10-15 Thread David T.
Thanks for your comment Angus. I was beginning to think nobody gave a
damn.

:-)

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[RBW] Re: Truly Scary Ride

2010-07-21 Thread David T.
Bad luck to get caught out in a really bad storm. But in a way good
luck, to live through an awe-inspiring display of nature and come out
all right.

Now if you didn’t have fenders, that would be truly frightening…


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[RBW] Re: Silver shifter break apart diagram

2010-07-17 Thread David T.
I had that happen, I looked at the other one to figure it out. After I
spent about half an hour finding the little spring on the carpet.

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[RBW] Re: You live on a 15% hill, you don't need a singlespeed......

2010-07-17 Thread David T.
I just looked up something that I read in Frank Berto’s book:

“With a cyclist’s entire weight on the pedal, the maximum rideable
gear in inches is seven times the slope denominator. Thus, a 1-in-10
incline requires a 70-inch gear.”

(In other words, on a 10 % slope, with all your weight on the pedal,
and a 70-inch gear you would just be stationary. But in reality, if
you pulled up on the handlebars, you could make a little progress. )

If I work things out correctly, a 15 % grade would be 1-in-6.67. Using
the formula above, this would give a maximum usable gear of 7 X 6.67 =
46.7 gear inches.

( That’s the maximum usable gear, not that it would be a fun ride. )

I am not sure how people know the grade of a hill either, other than
just by eyeballing it.

But I can say, in my experience, riding a single-speed bike will
gradually make you a better climber, so that after maybe six months or
a year, you can go up  hills quicker and easier than you would have
done previously in a lower gear.


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[RBW] Re: Front loading ...???

2010-07-10 Thread David T.
Have you thought of maybe lowering the bars 1/2 centimetre, using a
one-centimetre longer stem, and making sure the saddle is perfectly
level and not tilted back at all?

I know it is a bit presumptuous to comment on anyone's setup,
especially without seeing the person on the bike. But the way I
picture things, the bike pivots around the center of gravity, maybe
not exactly but more or less. That includes the weight of the bike,
the rider, and any stuff loaded on the bike. So if you move your own
weight forward slightly, the front end won't wander as much.


It is like when you have to paddle a canoe into the wind: if you put
most of the weight in the front of the canoe, it paddles straighter.

Anyway, it is a nice looking bike. I don't have a need for a Hillborne
right now, but something about that bike appeals to me. Even the ones
with two top tubes.



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[RBW] WTB: 66 cm Rambouillet or 65 cm Redwood

2010-07-03 Thread David T.
A wild stab in the dark. Frame, bike, what have you.



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[RBW] One-year report on Quickbeam

2010-06-27 Thread David T.
I have owned my Quickbeam for a year now. I love it. It’s a great bike
for riding in the city, commuting, etc. Very sturdy, but not
particularly slow. It will go fast if you pedal hard enough. Very
smooth ride, perfectly quiet. I originally got interested in Rivendell
bikes because they are one of the few companies that sell bikes in a
range of sizes for taller riders.

Pictures of it are here, plus my other slightly lighter lugged bike:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/51518...@n06/sets/72157624239868081/

I live in London, Ontario. My route to work is on pavement, some short
sections of trails and grass. The Quickbeam is good on rough surfaces.
You can ride over damaged asphalt, run off curbs etc., and you know
the frame and wheels will hold up.  I like the marathon supremes. No
flats in one year of riding. Hardly any wear, it seems. Extremely
durable. Maybe not the grippiest tires on wet pavement, but nothing’s
perfect.

I have had one crash on this bike, on wet pavement. Not a fault of the
tires, more a fault of the operator exceeding reasonable laws of
gravity, friction etc. Handlebars and saddle both twisted in opposite
directions, rear wheel disengaged, chain off, rear brake wedged in
spokes. And yet I was able to twist things back and ride home. And
every part of the bike, which I gradually reassembled as my wounds
healed, was fine. Very reliable bicycle. (I thought of posting
pictures of my injuries, but then thought it might not be in the best
of taste.)

I rode it in winter too; next winter I am going to mount Marathon
Winter studded tires, and bigger fenders on it, and use it on days
when there is not deep snow. Maybe a lower gear for winter as well.

All in all, I am very happy with this bicycle. The best thing I can
say about it is that it has me riding more than ever before.



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[RBW] Re: One-year report on Quickbeam

2010-06-27 Thread David T.
Thanks Ray. I used an upright handlebar on it during the winter, with
a longer stem. On rutted snow, the front end really bounces around a
lot on any bike, so the upright bars were a bit more manageable. But
for general use I wouldn’t change the noodle bars.

I experimented with having a small load in the front or the back. In
the summer, the load on the front feels better, the bike seems to
climb straighter that way. In the winter, having any weight over the
front wheel can be quite a handful, so I used the same mini rack
mounted on the back. ( Don’t ask. A spacer and some bending of metal
were involved. )

I forgot to mention one funny thing about Rivendell. They have to be
the fastest shippers I have ever encountered. From the time I called
to the time the bicycle was delivered to my front door in Canada took
less than one week. That includes having them make a couple of changes
to the parts, and going through customs or whatever happens at the
border. At first, I was almost slightly worried, it was like they were
trying to get rid of it too soon. But since then, whenever I order
something, it continues to arrive alarmingly fast.






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