Re: [RBW] Re: A Hunq

2021-12-10 Thread Geir Bentzen
I have a 62 cm green Hunq that I bought from Riv in 2014. I believe I was 
told the frame came from Waterford at that time. Ordered in April 2014 and 
delivered July 10. I have Nitto Noodles on and use the bike as much as 
possible. It's a pleasant ride, though I may change the Noodles out to 
something more upright as I grow older. I am in my early sixties already.

Geir

On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 2:59:40 PM UTC-5 mkernan...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I believe Rivs last run of Hunqs( Green) looked like a great bike but they 
> did a really short run of them.The chainstay was an in between length( 
> 49cm) of earlier Rivs and the current longer stays.  It had less BB drop ( 
> 71mm) and a decent stack/ reach ratio where drop bars were a little more 
> feasible.  And it was offered in 700c and 650b in the 59cm size which was 
> pretty neat. And possibly( I can’t remember)  no diagatube in the 59 size 
> which turned some people off,  not me though. Another run of Hunqs would 
> probably get a lot of interest.-Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 9, 2021, at 7:11 AM, 'Gary L' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>
> I've got a 2015 grey/kidney bean 58 hunq that I bought new and I'm sure 
> that one was built in Taiwan. I remember cause I was talking to Grant when 
> I ordered it and he assured me the quality was equal to the Toyo-built 
> bikes. It's still a great bike - wherever it came from!
>
> On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 8:28:14 PM UTC-5 Chris L wrote:
>
>> I've always wondered if my Hunqapillar was a Taiwan model and I thought 
>> this thread might give me the answer, but my top headtube lug seems to be 
>> the same as yours, but the lower one is different.  I thought the orange 
>> ones all came in one batch, but maybe that's not the case?  
>>
>> [image: 20190422_062154.jpg]
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 8:30:01 AM UTC-6 Marc Irwin wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_0774.JPG]
>>> That is the lug work and paint from the Waterford production run. 
>>>
>>> Marc
>>>
>>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 7:03:29 PM UTC-5 Nikko in Oakland wrote:
>>>
 Just wanted to share the only bike I think will be in my stable for 
 ever. It's a 54cm Hunq. I'm pretty sure it's Taiwan made, since it doesn't 
 have Waterford etched into the drop out. I've been working on this bike 
 for 
 18 months to get it here, and I'm finally happy with where I've landed. 
 The 
 only immediate changes might be... changing the 'tross bars to Billie 
 bars. 
 It's also set up for quick swaps in case I want to use Bullmoose bars that 
 day. 

 Enjoy. Happy to answer questions. 

 [image: IMG_4909.jpeg]

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[RBW] Re: Question for people who have ridden Compass/Rene Hearse tires

2021-06-13 Thread Geir Bentzen
I'm running the 700C x 44 Snoqualmie Pass Endurance on my 62 cm Hunqapillar 
now. Earlier I had a set of 38 mm Barlow Pass with the ultralight casing. I 
also have a set of 50 mm Schwalbe Marathon for it. And I have used one type 
and size of tire up front and a different in the back. I even had an old 35 
mm cheap tire on in the front for a long ride once. They all worked fine on 
the bike, and I'm a heavy rider. But I do pump them up to between 50 and 60 
psi and I have noticed issues when I simply don't care and continue riding 
the air pressure down to the 20s. Having ridden bikes for 55 years I 
believe I can claim that issues with steering are normal when the tire 
pressure is too low for your weight and may be expected with all tires. 
Even with good pressure up front and too low in the rear the bike will 
start to wander. Heavier people need more air pressure to keep the tires 
from deforming too much. I agree with the others here who advise you too 
experiment with the tire pressure and find your own personal level for 
whichever set of tires you happen to use. In general that goes for 
everything with a bike; make the bike feel good and work well for you and 
disregard all the norms of the day. Those will be different another day.

On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 6:53:30 AM UTC-5 Chris L wrote:

> This sounds exactly like what I'm experiencing, both in the wheel flop and 
> the sound volume when the tires are not going in a straight line.  
>
> Thanks for sharing.  Knowing this may be the case makes it much easier to 
> stick with the tires long enough for the issue to resolve itself.
>
> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 9:59:52 PM UTC-5 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> Interesting that this topic has come up. I have just put 300kms on some 
>> Antelope Hills on a 57 Appaloosa. 
>> When I first put them on I was dismayed at the wheel flop or 'self 
>> steering'. I thought I had wasted a lot of money and was pretty bitter. I 
>> have run them consistently at 30psi on road and gravel. I weigh 80kgs.
>>
>> Don't panic. Once the weird waxy coating on the new rubber wears off, for 
>> me this was around 150kms in, the weird handling disappears. Seems that the 
>> tackiness of whatever this residue is imparts strange grip as the tread 
>> pattern transistions going into a turn.
>>
>> See how you go.
>>
>> On Sunday, 13 June 2021 at 05:12:29 UTC+8 Chris L wrote:
>>
>>> I forgot to mention that I went with Endurance casing, which is the same 
>>> threads as the ultralight, but more densely packed.  
>>>
>>> When it cools down later today and then tomorrow morning, I'll play with 
>>> pressure extremes and see where that gets me. 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 2:43:34 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>
 Chris,
  You don’t mention which casing you purchased but the lighter weight 
 sidewalls require more pressure than many tires with heavier casings. 
 From your description, it sounds like your pressure is too low. 
 I’ve had similar experiences when I have had a slow leak on a ride and 
 could feel the handling change as the pressure dropped. 
 At 380 pounds you might try raising the pressure a bit and lower it if 
 the ride seems too harsh. 

 Ray

 On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 11:36:23 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I feel that an opportunity to use the phrase high-falutin was missed 
> here. 
>
>
> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 10:39:22 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> Just ride and play with tire pressures. 
>> Find your own sweet spot, nobody can ride your bike like you.
>> If no sweet spot is found, yeah so what ? Not everyone finds Compass 
>> tires to their liking you know. With high cost comes high expectations 
>> and 
>> even higher self-justifications. 
>> On Saturday, June 12, 2021 at 10:48:55 AM UTC-4 Chris L wrote:
>>
>>> I just put a set of 55mm Antelope Hill tires on a set of Dyad rims 
>>> and installed them on my Hunqapillar.  
>>>
>>> The tires, at slower speeds, have a TON of self-steer and in 
>>> anything other than a straight line, they are LOUD.   
>>>
>>> Riding on a 3' wide sidewalk, just slightly turning the handlebar 
>>> results in the very loud sound of the tires.  Is this something that 
>>> decreases as the tires get broken in?  I assume it's one of the tread 
>>> patterns  that may be more "grippy" to help in turns. 
>>>
>>> The self steering is awful.  I'm talking worse than a 1984 mountain 
>>> bike with Repack geometry.  
>>>
>>> I started the tires at 40-45 psi, which as a 380 lb rider, is where 
>>> I generally run tires this size.  During the ride, I lowered the 
>>> pressure 
>>> on the front a little, but didn't notice any appreciable difference.  
>>>
>>> I've run 38mm tires and two sets of 50mm + tires on the Hunq and 
>>> never experienced self steering at any level.
>>>
>>>

[RBW] Re: Unsafe helmets

2018-02-24 Thread Geir Bentzen
If we want a discussion about the safety of wearing a bicycle helmet this 
may be a starting point; https://bicyclesafe.com/helmets.html

The main point the author makes is that bike handling skills and behavior 
in traffic are much more important for rider safety than wearing a helmet. 
Having ridden bikes in traffic for almost 52 years I personally tend to 
agree, even though I am a safety instructor myself and will demand that my 
students use a helmet as instituted by the program. But then I also teach 
the skills mentioned above.

To me personally it seems that bike riding becomes much safer when a 
critical mass of riders on the streets has been reached, like in several 
European cities. When drivers are used to see and look out for cyclists 
things get easier for all. That is a strong argument against anything that 
makes bike riding a special pursuit in need of unusual clothing, head gear 
or anything else that a person would not wear around town without a bike 
underneath. Pictures from Norway and other places in Europe in the 1950s 
and 60s show people in work clothes, dresses and suits  commuting to work 
or shopping on bikes. And there are lots of them on the streets among the 
cars and trucks.

All the best,

Geir


On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 5:57:25 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Before you buy your next helmet you should consider this:
> https://www.bikebiz.com/news/anti-gun-bike-brand-boycott
>

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[RBW] Re: Wide drops for loaded Hunqapillar

2017-05-01 Thread Geir Bentzen
HI,
my 62 cm Hunqapillar has 48 cm Noodles on. I have been riding with them 
since I bought the bike in 2014. If you put the handlebars high enough you 
will find you can ride pretty upright (depending on your stem length) and 
you should be able to be comfortable in the 15 cm lower drops too. The 
brake levers should be placed so they are easy to grab even in the drops, 
actually easier to grab there than on the tops. I have found this to be 
both safe and comfortable with a basket on long rides of up to a 100 miles 
in a day.

Geir

On Friday, March 17, 2017 at 12:25:21 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> I seem to be going in reverse rivendell order with handlebars on the 
> hunqapillar. it had albatross and now albastache bars. like both for up to 
> 30 mile rides, but im starting to get bad wrist pain/numbness after that. I 
> have 46cm noodles on another bike which are about the pinnacle of comfort 
> for my wrists 
>
> I would rather not put noodles on hunq because...
> 1-i like having a wider bar for leverage with a front load or off road or 
> both
> 2-riding in the drops/hooks, on descents, is not comfortable or easy to 
> get to the brake levers
>
> I find the less extreme dirt drops intriguing, but i would like to be able 
> to be on the hoods most of the time. 
>
> What im looking for is...
> -wider drop with some flare. 
> -useable hood/ramp area
> -26mm clamp
> -accepts bar ends
> -has 125mm or less of drop
> -comes in silver
>
> the fairweather all road bar looks about perfect, but it's not quite wide 
> enough. the nitto rm-13 in the widest size may work, but the 140mm of drop 
> seems like it may have the same descent issue as noodles. 
>
> any recommendations?
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Which Compass tires for a Sam Hillborne riden on pavement

2017-05-01 Thread Geir Bentzen
Hi,
I use the extra light 38 mm on my Hunqapillar. I could use the 42 mm, but 
they came on sale after I bought the ones I have. Which means I have used 
them for about 10 months now and had no flats at all. I weigh above 110 
kilos or 245 pounds and I ride on both gravel roads and asphalt. I have 
come to love the Compass tires and will absolutely recommend them. 

Geir

On Sunday, April 30, 2017 at 2:05:00 PM UTC-4, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about making the move to Compass tires on my commuter Sam.
> Which ones would you all recommend for an urban commute on not great roads?
> I would use Stan's or similar in Schwalbe extralight tubes to try and keep 
> the weight reasonable and still reduce the number of flats as close to my 
> ideal (0) as possible.
> What say you wise ones?
>
> Jay
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Annoying unwanted commentary/advice while riding a Rivendell.

2016-04-19 Thread Geir Bentzen
I think we should remember the positive. I have received lots of 'cool
bike' type of comments to my Hunqapillar. I also teach a safety course
called Group Riding Skills. The Hunqapillar is in front of the room as the
demonstration bike and I use it for the outside part to teach the riders
avoidance skills, braking and close proximity riding. Never a single
negative comment.

On Tuesday, April 19, 2016, Will  wrote:

> I think the best response is this...
>
> Hey (carbon-guy) would you like to swap for an hour?
>
> Because we know (WE KNOW) that Rivs plus 30-40 mm tires beat everything
> out there for speed and comfort. Those carbon frames with 24 mm tires suck.
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 8:42:39 PM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>>
>> I was out on my Rambouillet on a club ride on Sunday (a near perfect
>> spring day -- sun, blue skies, temps in upper 70's, little wind), enjoying
>> the day and the company for the most part, until a fellow I do not really
>> know (those who know me consider the Ram comparatively normal for me!)
>>  rode up on a carbon "wonder bike", said "where'd you get that relic?,"
>> "that thing must be a tank," "you're making the club look bad," and a few
>> other choice bits accompanied by a chuckle or two.
>>
>> I tried to be polite, pointing out it was not really vintage, that Rivs
>> have great ride characteristics, beautiful aesthetics, that It was the
>> right bike for "me" etc. -- to no avail. After a few minutes of this I got
>> fed up and told him to be quiet and rode away from him. I'm not sure how
>> best to deal with people like that.
>>
>> I get this sort of thing from time to time, but usually really minimal
>> compared to this joker. How do you respond?
>>
>> Julian Westerhout
>> Bloomington, IL
>>
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[RBW] Re: Annoying unwanted commentary/advice while riding a Rivendell.

2016-04-19 Thread Geir Bentzen
Here in Texas they put sensors in the street at traffic lights. A steel 
bike gets you a green light. Carbon fiber lets you stand there. Enjoy what 
you have!

Geir

On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 8:42:39 PM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>
> I was out on my Rambouillet on a club ride on Sunday (a near perfect 
> spring day -- sun, blue skies, temps in upper 70's, little wind), enjoying 
> the day and the company for the most part, until a fellow I do not really 
> know (those who know me consider the Ram comparatively normal for me!) 
>  rode up on a carbon "wonder bike", said "where'd you get that relic?," 
> "that thing must be a tank," "you're making the club look bad," and a few 
> other choice bits accompanied by a chuckle or two. 
>
> I tried to be polite, pointing out it was not really vintage, that Rivs 
> have great ride characteristics, beautiful aesthetics, that It was the 
> right bike for "me" etc. -- to no avail. After a few minutes of this I got 
> fed up and told him to be quiet and rode away from him. I'm not sure how 
> best to deal with people like that. 
>
> I get this sort of thing from time to time, but usually really minimal 
> compared to this joker. How do you respond? 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>

On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 8:42:39 PM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>
> I was out on my Rambouillet on a club ride on Sunday (a near perfect 
> spring day -- sun, blue skies, temps in upper 70's, little wind), enjoying 
> the day and the company for the most part, until a fellow I do not really 
> know (those who know me consider the Ram comparatively normal for me!) 
>  rode up on a carbon "wonder bike", said "where'd you get that relic?," 
> "that thing must be a tank," "you're making the club look bad," and a few 
> other choice bits accompanied by a chuckle or two. 
>
> I tried to be polite, pointing out it was not really vintage, that Rivs 
> have great ride characteristics, beautiful aesthetics, that It was the 
> right bike for "me" etc. -- to no avail. After a few minutes of this I got 
> fed up and told him to be quiet and rode away from him. I'm not sure how 
> best to deal with people like that. 
>
> I get this sort of thing from time to time, but usually really minimal 
> compared to this joker. How do you respond? 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>

On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 8:42:39 PM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>
> I was out on my Rambouillet on a club ride on Sunday (a near perfect 
> spring day -- sun, blue skies, temps in upper 70's, little wind), enjoying 
> the day and the company for the most part, until a fellow I do not really 
> know (those who know me consider the Ram comparatively normal for me!) 
>  rode up on a carbon "wonder bike", said "where'd you get that relic?," 
> "that thing must be a tank," "you're making the club look bad," and a few 
> other choice bits accompanied by a chuckle or two. 
>
> I tried to be polite, pointing out it was not really vintage, that Rivs 
> have great ride characteristics, beautiful aesthetics, that It was the 
> right bike for "me" etc. -- to no avail. After a few minutes of this I got 
> fed up and told him to be quiet and rode away from him. I'm not sure how 
> best to deal with people like that. 
>
> I get this sort of thing from time to time, but usually really minimal 
> compared to this joker. How do you respond? 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar owner opinions and sizing recommendations

2015-08-21 Thread Geir Bentzen
I'm 6.2 with a pbh of 95 to 96 as measured by my wife while I hauled up 
hard! My Hunqapillar is a 62 cm with 48 cm Noodles.I have 50 mm Schwalbe 
Marathons on.  I came from a 62 cm Trek 5000 road bike to Hunqapillar. My 
old saddle height was 83.7 cm, right now I don't really know, just at a 
nice comfy place that gives me plenty of power and no pain. I have lots of 
saddle height adjustment to go on, both up and down. At the moment my 
Noodles are as high as possible, which means I can use the drops in all 
downhills and on rough gravel or soft dirt roads. I can also stay 
comfortable in the drops for a long time. 

The Hunqapillar has so much adjustments available and so many possible 
choices for handlebars, pedals and tires that you can adjust into whatever 
position you enjoy. Personally I feel no need to listen to anybody else 
than my body when it comes to angles and measurements, and I do change them 
when I feel like it. I have long arms, but a relatively short torso, you 
should check yours to help you choose handlebars. Being 6.2 or 6.0 really 
doesn't mean anything. Some people have long necks and tall heads, others 
have a round head posted straight on the shoulders like me. No impact for 
your choice of bike.

I guess the message to you is to check that pbh, call Rivendell and feel 
safe that you will get a bike that fits.

Geir

On Thursday, August 20, 2015 at 11:20:22 PM UTC-4, Jason Braaten wrote:

 Hi All, 

 I'm considering purchasing a Hunqapillar in the near future, as I want to 
 combine my love for roads and dirt onto the same vessel.  I'm 6'2 with a 
 34 inseam and typically ride a 60cm st ctc on my vintage road bikes and XL 
 mountain bike.   I haven't measured my pbh, however was hoping to get 
 opinions from Hunqapillar owners who are ridding 58cm and 62cm's.  Curious 
 what the 6' - 6'3 crowd is riding and how you like it. On the road bikes, 
 62cm is usually a little too large for my liking.  Any opinions are greatly 
 appreciated. 

 Thanks in advance 

 J Braaten 
 Brick, NJ 08724

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[RBW] Re: Best Riv frame for rear childseat?

2015-08-14 Thread Geir Bentzen
I used to carry both my sons on child seats and I noticed that one of my 
bikes back in Norway was less happy with the heavy weight right behind my 
heavy body than others. That bike had a frame and fork close to my present 
62 cm Hunqapillar so I am inclined to advise you to go for a longer chain 
stay bike like the the Cheviot and the Clem. My Hunq becomes front wheel 
light on steep uphills off road with me on the saddle. I also agree with 
others that having to step over the top tube leg forward is awkward. You 
may be tempted to lean the bike too much and loose it with the child in the 
seat. So try the step through Cheviot before you decide!

Geir

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 1:26:25 AM UTC-4, Daniel Jackson wrote:

 What do you all think is the best frame for this purpose? Hunq, Cheviot? 
 Good old Sam? Clem?


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[RBW] Re: Grant's review in WSJ

2015-04-14 Thread Geir Bentzen
The Wind in the Willows; The Motor Car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql3QXNM1_Jk

Enjoy!

Geir

On Sunday, April 12, 2015 at 12:42:57 PM UTC-5, Richard Sulkes wrote:


 Check out Grant's review of Bike Battles: A History of Sharing the 
 American Road, by James Longhurst, in the book section of yesterday's Wall 
 Street Journal. Well written, and I was curious how that review found 
 itself in the Journal.

 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad https://yho.com/footer0


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RE: [RBW] Clydesdale's -- Which Riv Model are you riding?

2015-03-27 Thread Geir Bentzen
36 spokes on my Hunqapillar. There never was a question about that. I have a 
history of breaking spokes on road bikes, especially at the moment I decide to 
stand up while climbing a hill.

Geir

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Rod Holland
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 5:10 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Clydesdale's -- Which Riv Model are you riding?

Related question: 36h or 32h wheels?

rod

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[RBW] Re: Clydesdale's -- Which Riv Model are you riding?

2015-03-26 Thread Geir Bentzen
I'm 6' 2 and bought a 62 cm Hunqapillar last year when my weight was at 
241. I have 50 mm tires. It doesn't feel heavy at all and fits me great. I 
have 48 cm Noodles handlebars and Grip King pedals. I talked with Jared 
when I put the order in and he didn't want to sell me the Sam Hillborne I 
originally called about when he heard my weight. I have never regretted 
listening to his advise. I have other bikes, but I have hardly used them at 
all since the Hunqapillar arrived. 

Geir

On Wednesday, March 25, 2015 at 3:26:14 PM UTC-5, DSat wrote:

 To the riders that weigh 200 lbs or more, which Riv model are you riding?  
 I am just shy of 300, so should I consider one model over another?  I 
 assume that the wider the tires the better.


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[RBW] Re: Grant sets them straight with letter to editor

2015-02-26 Thread Geir Bentzen
I believe I have read/skimmed all the comments by now and as a European who 
has emigrated to the U.S. what strikes me as odd is the feeling I get that 
riding a bike is something special. Something you need a club for, extra 
things to buy, something a bit exotic. I believe the core of what Grant 
says is that it is not something special. It as normal as driving or 
walking down the street or taking the bus, and in fact those things can 
often be combined. My impression is that he promotes using the bike as your 
get around daily tool as much as you can, and that may mean to wear 
whatever suits the combination of your tasks, not only your bike riding. 
This is how I experienced life in Europe. But, if you go out for a ride 
that has no other tasks to it than just riding then I believe you should 
feel free to dress for the physical exercise involved. In my own case that 
means bike shorts made of lycra and other more or less bike specific attire 
as needed for the weather. I just don't see the conflict here. I have 
several bikes, but I notice that the one I grab all the time is my 
Hunqapillar, even though I own an excellent German city bike for going to 
the grocery store. So the Hunq does it all, but I may not wear the same 
clothes all the time. When younger I would often wear running shoes while 
walking around town in jeans, but I would never go for a long run wearing 
those jeans even though I still wore the same shoes. Why not adopt the same 
practical and non-ideological attitude?

On Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at 3:08:44 PM UTC-6, Jon in the foothills of 
Central Colorado wrote:

 In the new Adventure Cyclist Mag

 PETERSEN RESPONDS TO READER

 LETTER ‘UNRACING? UNCOOL’

 Racing attitudes, bikes, clothing,

 and diets have become the norm and

 normal, and are so pervasive that many

 adult cyclists, maybe even some you

 know, accept the racing standards as

 the only legitimate way to be a serious

 adult cyclist. What I tried to do in the

 book *Just Ride *— and what we do here

 at Rivendell Bicycle Works — is offer

 an alternative, a model to other adult

 cyclists that there is another way. This

 letter is not an ad for either. I’m simply

 saying where I come from and what I

 do.

 We are the mice trying to squeak

 above the roar at the base of the

 waterfall. It is no time to be wishywashy,

 but I try hard to not offend.

 Inevitably, a declarative position on

 any matter is bound to raise a few

 hackles with those who have a different

 position, but it still hurts to be judged

 by a stranger who would probably like

 me, and whom I’d surely like, in person.

 A good number of our customers are

 middle-aged and older folks trying to

 fit in some activity as they age. They

 often have the means, and they’re

 influenced by what they read and see

 that promotes racers as a good model —

 and that’s something I don’t agree with.

 They shop as innocents and come

 out of it dressed like racers and riding

 bikes that are not only inappropriate

 for the kind of riding they do, but are,

 on top of that and more egregiously, not

 comfortable. We undo that. You may

 see ego or evil behind it, but I don’t

 feel either of those. I see racing and

 racers as fringe and am simply trying

 to legitimize an alternative point of

 view, one that I feel strongly about. I’m

 trying — certainly not singlehandedly —

 to make people feel good about riding

 without dressing in pro-team gear and

 copying so many other affectations of

 the racer, and that is what Unracing and

 *Just Ride *and Rivendell Bicycle Works is

 all about. We’re nobody’s enemy. Some

 of my best friends pedal cliplessly and

 in spandex. It’s cool.

 Grant Petersen

 Walnut Creek, California


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RE: [RBW] Re: PSA: Are you a cheapskate that's into safety?

2015-02-12 Thread Geir Bentzen
FYI
About the IKEA safety vest;
EN 1150 means the vest complies with the European Union regulations (CE) for 
private use. EN 471 means it complies with the regulations for professional use.
The vest should not be cleaned more than 25 times before it is discarded, which 
is common for all makes and models.

Link to a page with pictures of safety vests in compliance:

 
https://www.google.com/search?q=godkjent+refleksvestespv=2biw=1366bih=667tbm=ischtbo=usource=univsa=Xei=zh_dVN_gFPXCsASw1oDgDAved=0CCcQsAQ#imgdii=_imgrc=rEy4lUXR_RitEM%253A%3BKh4cXbH9Rw_BsM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Freflectil.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2014%252F05%252Fcertifikat1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Freflectil.com%252Fnb%252Fnorm-facts-quality%252Fpersonlig-verneutstyr-og-ce-merking%252F%3B250%3B350

Enjoy your rides!

Geir Bentzen

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Lynne Fitz
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 2:54 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Are you a cheapskate that's into safety?

Ikea Patrull Vest

From the page:
Good to know
Complies with EN ISO 20471:2013 and ANSI/ISEA 107-2010.

I believe EN ISO 20471 exceeds/isbetterthan EN 1150, but don't take my word for 
it.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Are you a cheapskate that's into safety?

2015-02-10 Thread Geir Bentzen
Probably due to high production volumes. All drivers must have a reflective 
vest within reach inside the vehicle in the Nordic countries by law. Most 
hang it over the seat back. It has to be worn if the driver needs to step 
out along the road. Since these are countries with a tradition of detailed 
regulations, I assume the reflective qualities of the vests are regulated 
to a high standard.

On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 2:52:10 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 FYI:  Ikea, to my surprise, now sells reflective vests with real, legit, 
 3M reflective stripes, for $4.  $3 in kids sizes.  That's pretty darn cheap.


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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

2014-12-18 Thread Geir Bentzen
I have had all the the types of shifters mentioned up to now, and more, 
over the almost 50 years I have been riding bikes. Truth be told, I like 
them all when they work well. I think that is the core here; what works 
well for you right now on the chosen bike? DT shifters worked very well for 
me in the 1970s and 80s, but I chose bar ends for my Hunqapillar this year. 
It's set up with 48 cm Noodles. I just don't want to stretch or bend, and 
think I may be older and stiffer the next many (I hope) years too. On the 
other hand I do love the cleanliness and elegance of DT shifters. No stray 
cables! I have a bike with stem shifters, a 1976 or 77 Fuji, and for that 
bike it feels great. The Nitto Olympic drop bars are very narrow making the 
stem an easy place to reach. The set up I have the most doubts about is for 
a Sachs 7 speed where I turn a ring on the handlebar. It often feels hard 
and without a clear message to me about what happened back down there. For 
mountain bikes thumbies are great. In my opinion you or some earlier 
owner/builder built a personality into the bike. Get to know it before you 
start changing too much and end up with a different bike altogether, and 
don't overthink things that work. Brifters are excellent if you ride fast 
and intense with full focus on staying at the right cadence and keeping the 
speed up, then you need fast and frequent shifting. But how often do you do 
that?

Geir

On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 11:09:21 PM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:

 If I love friction  bar end shifting, will I find friction DT shifting 
 just as easy and enjoyable? 

 Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult 
 and looks like there's a big potential for knees banging into forearms 
 while pedalling and reaching down to shift  at same time. 

 What's your experience been with DT shifting?

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[RBW] Re: Shoe Recommendations for VP Thin Gripsters (or Grip Kings)

2014-11-30 Thread Geir Bentzen
I have found that shoes with a flat rubber sole of the amber/brown type, 
like boat shoes, give good contact on the Grip King pedals. Running shoes 
not so much, and especially not in wet weather. My Timberland hiking boots, 
a totally different sole from the boat shoes, have also proven to stick 
well to the pedals.

Geir

On Monday, November 17, 2014 9:17:16 AM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:

 I've been using sneakers by Puma or Clarks when riding my Hillborne with 
 either a set of MKS Grip Kings or VP Thin Gripster pedals (which I highly 
 recommend!).  My feet sometimes ache after a long ride in squishy shoes. 
  Has anyone found a stiffer soled shoe that they like with sneaker pedals?

 Thanks,
 John


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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

2014-09-16 Thread Geir Bentzen
Are you sure you need a cue sheet? Your smart phone may give you a map 
function with your position. In most cases it should be enough to check 
that when you are in doubt about where to go next, or you know you are so 
lost and out of time or acceptable weather that a return route must be 
found fast.I bought a round black Bell at Wal-Mart for a little more than $ 
20. It gives me accumulated distance, time of day, ride distance and moving 
time plus a speedometer. A big minus are the small numbers for everything 
except the speedometer. I need to wear prescription glasses to see them. 
But I can't use my phone without them either, and would not be able to use 
expensive cyclocomputers without glasses. I also use MapMyRide on the 
phone, but only check it after the ride or during breaks if I remember to 
pause it. It is good mental exercise to study a map before you go out and 
try to remember where to go based on that.
Geir

On Sunday, September 14, 2014 11:39:48 PM UTC-4, Neil wrote:

 Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike 
 computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the 
 like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, 
 and a small, modest screen.

 Cheers,

 Neil


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[RBW] Re: Hello

2014-08-20 Thread Geir Bentzen
Hi Kevin,

I'm also new to the group. I'm partly based in Down East Maine and partly 
in Texas. I got my Hunqapillar on July 11 this year and have been enjoying 
it around Washington and Hancock counties in Maine since then. One of the 
first things I did was to ride in the 100 mile version of the Lobster Ride 
out of Rockland. Other riders noticed the bike and several took a very good 
look at it during rest stops; especially late in the ride when they were 
hurting from their overly aggressive positions. (I was always on my Trek). 
Some asked me a funny question; How fast is it? When the Hunqapillar was 
at the same rest stop as them at the same time during a ride we all started 
at the same time the answer should be given. To me the bike is a pleasant 
bike that makes me want to ride, whether for a short spin around the 
peninsula here or for a more training oriented ride. I will try to attach a 
picture. As of yet I have no luggage racks; those will come when the budget 
allows. I used to ride a Trek 5000 all carbon bike, in addition other bikes 
I have; an American Eagle mountain bike from the late 90s that I bought in 
Norway, a Kettler AluRad City Cruiser with a Sachs 7 speed bought in 
Germany in 1996 and a Fuji 10 Speed from about 1976-77 that I found in 
Portland, ME this spring. This last one needs some work.

Geir

On Monday, August 18, 2014 11:05:58 PM UTC-4, Kevin C wrote:

 Hello - I have been a long time reader of the RBW Owners Bunch group and 
 finally decided to participate.  Thought I would start with a couple 
 pictures of my Rivendells; my Roadeo riding in western MA and my Atlantis 
 on a recent overnight.  I live in eastern MA, and one of my main interests 
 in joining the group is potentially connecting up with other Rivendell 
 owners in the New England area.  


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[RBW] Re: Do you ride your drop bars above, at, or below saddle height on your Rivbikes?

2014-08-07 Thread Geir Bentzen
Well above my saddle height. I can use all positions on my Noodle bars with 
comfort, and find myself being down in the drops on every downhill and 
often on the flats. I used to ride a normal road bike and hardly ever 
used the drops for more than a minute at a time. This is much better.

Geir

On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 2:04:10 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Just curious how everyone here rides. There is no right or wrong way, of 
 course - just whatever is comfortable!


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