[RBW] Re: FS: Paul MiniMoto Brakes, Shimano ST-R500 Brake/Shift Levers, Nitto Noodle Handlebar, Nitto Stem, Shimano CX70 Front Derailleur, Sugino 46t Chainring
Paul MiniMoto Brakes - *SOLD* Nitto Stem - *SOLD* *Still available:* Shimano ST-R500 shifters Nitto Noodle handlebars Shimano CX-70 front derailleur Sugino chainring 46t -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Paul MiniMoto Brakes, Shimano ST-R500 Brake/Shift Levers, Nitto Noodle Handlebar, Nitto Stem, Shimano CX70 Front Derailleur, Sugino 46t Chainring
Sale pending on the MiniMoto brakes, everything else still available. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: What fenders for Clem?
Not sure how functional they are, but I sure like the look of these wood fenders: http://www.woodysfenders.com/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] FS: Paul MiniMoto Brakes, Shimano ST-R500 Brake/Shift Levers, Nitto Noodle Handlebar, Nitto Stem, Shimano CX70 Front Derailleur, Sugino 46t Chainring
Hi everyone, I recently converted my Hunqapillar from a speedy, drop-bar, slim-tire configuration to a more comfy, upright, fat tire configuration. I’m very happy with the final result, but now I have some extra parts laying around that I would like to sell to offset the costs of the Hunq’s transformation. All prices include the cost of shipping in the US. I will update the list as items are sold. Payments through PayPal are preferred, I will send you the address. Thanks for looking, I’m happy to answer any questions. The handlebar, stem, shifters, and brakes all work together nicely, if you’re looking for a speedy cockpit. -Matt *Paul MiniMoto brakes, polished silver color - $100 for 2 pairs (enough for 1 bike)* These mini v-brakes work great for tires up to about 40 mm thick. I was running these with the Compass Barlow Pass 700x38 tires, and there still was clearance for slightly larger tires, but just barely. The brakes are in great shape, but there is slight corrosion on the Kool-Stop brake pad nuts. Kool-Stop appears to be using an inferior grade of metal on their nuts. You get 2 sets of salmon pads, plus one set of black pads, all with plenty of life left. No cables or housings are included. I will also include a small 15 mm wrench, perfect for on-the-go adjustments - it fits in your bike bag. Brakes work with short-pull levers. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_153952718.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160311_164700489.jpg *Shimano ST-R500 8-Speed STI Flight Deck Lever set (brake/shifters) - $100 for pair* These brake/shifters can accommodate 2x8 or 3x8 set-ups. I was using it in my 1x8 set-up, and they even worked great for that. Smooth, clean indexed shifting. No cables or housings are included. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163335064.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163420805.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163410770.jpg *Nitto Noodle Handlebar, 46 cm, heat-treated aluminum - $50* 26.0mm stem clamp diameter. Requires brake levers with a 23.8mm brake clamp diameter. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163448241.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163507859.jpg *Nitto Technomic Stem, 9 cm, 26.0 clamp diameter - $30* http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163544287.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163553376.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_163621802.jpg *Shimano Front Derailleur CX70 (FD-CX70) - $30* The clamp is 31.8mm but it comes with an aluminum shim for 28.6mm seat tubes. Bottom pull. Barely used, since I’ve been running a 1x8 set-up. No cables or housings are included. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_154154839.jpg *Sugino Chainring, 110x46-tooth - $20* Barely used. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_154139720.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z380/Cayuga/Bike%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_20160413_154133558.jpg -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: choco-moose versus bullmoose
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 6:54:21 AM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote: > > Sounds like a fun ride! Upright is cool for the easy looking around! > > What's the story behind the front brake cable hanger? I don't usually see > them there. But looks really nice! > Regarding the fork-mounted front brake hanger, it's a long story. I had been using Paul Minimoto brakes, which are linear pull and do not require any brake cable hanger, so I had removed the hanger that had been mounted at the headset. I removed all the smaller headset spacers, and replaced them all with one big 25 mm spacer, which results in a super clean look. Then I got these new brakes, the Tektro CR720, to accommodate wider tires (the Minimotos only can handle tires up to about 40 mm width). So I needed a brake cable hanger again. Rather than mount it at the headset, I just went with the fork-mounted version. I had also read that using a headset-mounted hanger can result in brake 'pulsing', due to the long length of exposed cable between the hanger and the brakes, acting like a bow and arrow. The fork-mounted version is supposed to eliminate this problem. I have had cantilever brakes in the past but I was never happy with the braking power, so I felt that maybe the fork-mounted hanger would be helpful. After 2 rides, I can say that it works great, good stopping power. Getting back the choco-moose bars, one thing I really like about them is that I can leave most of the bars exposed, and it still looks good. I was toying with the idea of wrapping the horizontal portion near the stem, but I am finding that to be unnecessary, since I almost always ride with gloves anyway. More shiny bare metal = higher bling factor. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: choco-moose versus bullmoose
I just installed the Choco-Moose bars on my Hunqapillar after years of riding with Noodle drop bars, but I don't have the brakes or derailleur cables set up yet. I will do this later in the week and then get back to you with a ride report. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: What's Left (Re: Yet another late winter FS list (Clem Smith,Choco moose))
Hi David, Are the Choco Moose bars still available? > > Are they in great shape? If yes, then I'll take 'em! I have been thinking about taking off the Noodle drop bars from my Hunqapillar, and putting on something more upright and comfortable. I';m hoping that the Choco-Moose will fit the bill. Thanks, Matt -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains
Bobby, It's all about simplicity. I used to ride a bike with all the different gears, a Garmin GPS to track my mileage and speed, a cadence meter, etc. I just got sick of all that extra stuff. On my new bike, I originally had the double chainrings, but I was never using the big ring, so it made sense to ditch it and go for the 1x8 setup; easier to keep clean, less to think about while riding. Even now I hardly ever spend any time in the small cogs, so I'm not cross-chaining for a large % of my riding time. If I lived in area that was flatter, I'd like to go with a single-speed, but alas, I need some gears for the hills. On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 1:08:55 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote: Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups. Someone please convince me otherwise. WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want, and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs on a single front chain ring makes me cringe. Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have only a 3 speed). I like my 21 speeds, thank you. I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the tradeoff. Otherwise, I ain't gettin it... That said, please feel free to send me your unwanted front derailleurs... Peace, Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Grant on tires
I recently learned about the new Jan's new Compass tires, and I bought the 700x38c Barlow Pass version, with the extra-light sidewalls. Only had a chance to ride them once so far, but it felt like an improvement over my old 700x40c Schwalbe Marathon Duremes. They felt like they would spin-up from a dead stop a lot faster, which makes sense since I think the weight savings is about 100g per tire; much less rotating mass. At full speed they were fine, didn't get any flats, even when I rode right through a pile of broken glass shards (couldn't avoid it). I ran them at 60 psi on my Velocity Synergy rims, and this lower PSI probably helped with avoiding punctures (I used to run the Duremes at 70-80 psi). Gotta get more riding time with them, but so far I'm a fan. The all-black look of the tires is sweet too. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Riv-esque Bike shops in Portland?
It makes me happy (and a little sad) to see folks recommending VeloCult. I discovered this shop only a few months before they moved out of San Diego, and I liked them a lot. The selection of goods was very unique, nothing like other stores in SD. Super friendly guys, especially Tom the mechanic. Universal Cycles is also great, huge online selection. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Better brakes for canti-Saluki?
I have been running the Shimano CX70 brakes on my Hunqapillar. These brakes definitely clear the front fork when opened wide, no problems there. Set-up was easy, but I have to run the brake pads really close to the rims to get good stopping power. I used barrel adjusters to dial in the pad-rim distance into perfection, but whenever attempting to remove a wheel, I could not get the brake straddle wire to release without undoing the barrel adjusters. This is not a huge problem, but nonetheless it is not ideal. A few nights ago, I took the CX70s off the bike and put on some Paul MiniMoto linear pull brakes. I haven't had a chance to ride them yet, but the set-up was easy. With those brakes, it seems that the maximum tire width would be around 42-45 mm, since the connecting wire runs close to the tire and these brakes do not clear the front fork when open. On Tuesday, March 4, 2014 5:45:04 AM UTC-8, john muhl wrote: Thanks for the suggestions. Anybody tried the Shimano CX70 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm on a Saluki? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains
Jon, Thanks for the advice! I did not know about that tension adjustment hole in the rear derailler. My setup is dialed in perfectly right now, but if the chain gets slack over time, it's nice to know that I can adjust the RD spring tension instead of messing with the chain length. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: 9 to 8 speed worth it for better friction shifting?
You are right. It appears that, at least for Shimano and SRAM cassettes, the center-to-center cog spacing is 5.0 mm in the 7-speed, vs. 4.8 mm in the 8-speed, vs 4.34 mm in the 9-speed. Good to know. If I ever try friction shifting again, I will pick up a 7-speed cassette. http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html On Tuesday, February 25, 2014 2:08:37 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: You are wrong about spacing. See sheldon on this. HunqRider pot...@gmail.com javascript: wrote: I originally set up my current bike with an 8-speed cassette and Silver friction downtube shifters. I could never get the hang of it; it was just too fussy to try to get the proper gear with no rubbing. Going down to 7-speed cassette would not offer much help, since 7-speed and 8-speed cogs have the same spacing. So I switched over to an 8-speed brake/shifter combo from Shimano (brifter), and it's been smooth shifting ever since. I used to ride an old Centurion with a 5-speed freewheel, now that setup made friction shifting easy! But today's cassette cogs are spaced too closely for clean friction shifting, in my opinion. -- Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Bottom bracket size ?
I will add an additional data point regarding BB size for the Hunqapillar, for anyone stumbling across this thread. My Hunqapillar has a Sugino XD2 double crank, which originally had 34-48 double chainrings. The bike was sent to me along with a Shimano UN55 68x107mm bottom bracket. Upon installing, there was no way that the 107mm BB was going to work; the 34-toothed chainring was almost contacting the chainstay. So I swapped it out and put in a 113mm bottom bracket; much better. The 34 chainring is still close to the chainstay (about 3-4mm space), but it has been fine for me in over 1000 miles of riding. The 107mm BB may work fine if your putting on a Triple crankset, and the most inward chainring is very small. But if you're going to be using a double with your most inward chainring being a 34 or higher, go with the 113mm BB. On Sunday, June 19, 2011 1:10:23 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote: Greetings, Anyone know the BB size for an XD triple using 24/36/48 rings on the H ? I use a Tange 110mm on my Bombadil, for reference . I've not found a trace of info here or on the net. Thanks. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Single-Chainring Drivetrains
Wondering if anyone is thinking about converting their Rivendell over to a simple 1x drivetrain configuration (single chainring). I did this last year, and it has made riding a whole lot simpler and fun. I will detail my experiences, which hopefully will be useful to others thinking about making the change. My original drivetrain configuration was: Hunqapillar (54 cm frame) 113mm Bottom bracket Sugino XD2 crankset (double) 34 and 48 tooth chainrings 8-speed cassette (12-32 tooth) To make the change over to the 1x drivetrain, I figured I would just take off the outer chainring and replace with 5 washers of similar thickness. There was a problem though; the “nut” part of the chainring bolts were too long, so had to get some shorter ones. My LBS sold ones that were designed for single speed cranks from a company named “Problem Solvers”; these ended up working fine, though I ended up having to use the old longer crankset “bolts” with my new shorter “nuts”. I took off the front derailer, and went out on a few rides. Everything was fine, except that when doing fast shifts over to the small cassette cogs, the chain would sometimes fall off the chainring to the outside. So I installed a Paul Components Chain Keeper. This device mounts onto the seat tube where the front derailler would normally be, and it covers both the inside and outside of the chain. This worked only ‘OK’ for me. I believe that it is designed for 9- or 10-speed chain thicknesses, so my 8-speed chain was a tight fit. I had to play with it a lot to get it in the perfect position, and even then, it would slightly rub on the chain, especially when riding hard “out of the saddle” which would create chainring flex. So I had to find a new solution. My new solution was to cover both sides of the chain independently. For the inside, I used an N-Gear Jump Stop. I haven’t ever had any issues with the chain falling off to the inside, but the Jump Stop gives me piece of mind. For the outside, I installed a bashguard. I don’t think that just any bashguard will do, it needs to be as thin and small as possible. Here’s why: I never changed my bottom bracket, so the chainring is not perfectly centered on the cassette cogs. Ideally, I probably should have installed a slightly longer bottom bracket to get better chainline, but in my setup, when “cross-chained” from the 34t chainring to the small 12t cog, the chain has a bit of an angle, and a big bashguard would rub. So I put on a ‘SuperLight’ Bashguard from BBG bashguards, size 36 (just slightly bigger than the chainring). This bashguard is half the thickness of a chainring. I then used washers inside the bashguard, to get it just a bit further away from the chain. This has worked great; no rubbing, and no drops of the chain under any conditions so far. Can you just leave the front derailler in place, instead of messing round with these chain protectors? Probably, but then you would have still have to be ‘trimming’ the derailler using your left hand to prevent rubbing. In my setup, the left hand does nothing except braking now. One other thing I did was take a few links out of the chain, since it never leaves the 34t chainring (it used to have to be long enough to accommodate the 48t chainring). The experience has been fun, I don’t see myself returning to a multi-chainring setup anytime soon. In my smallest gearing (34t chainring 32t cog), it is doable to climb most hills, and in my top gearing (12t cog), it is fast enough for all the flats and moderate descents. On steep descents, I do find that it will “spin out”, but that usually just tells me that I’m going fast enough for my own safety, no need to go faster by pedaling. I hope that this is helpful to anyone thinking about making the switch to 1x this year. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: 9 to 8 speed worth it for better friction shifting?
I originally set up my current bike with an 8-speed cassette and Silver friction downtube shifters. I could never get the hang of it; it was just too fussy to try to get the proper gear with no rubbing. Going down to 7-speed cassette would not offer much help, since 7-speed and 8-speed cogs have the same spacing. So I switched over to an 8-speed brake/shifter combo from Shimano (brifter), and it's been smooth shifting ever since. I used to ride an old Centurion with a 5-speed freewheel, now that setup made friction shifting easy! But today's cassette cogs are spaced too closely for clean friction shifting, in my opinion. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
