Re: [RBW] WTB - 9spd Dura Ace downtube shifters

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I bought a NOS set from Alex Cycles in Japan a couple years ago. Paid $90. The 
set they replaced was installed in 2002 and were a bit loose. So, they last 
about 20-years.
I wish I had the matching derailleur. 

> On Apr 11, 2024, at 7:50 AM, John Dewey  wrote:
> 
> Who among us has used Dura-Ace 9-speed dt levers long enough to ‘wear them 
> out’? 
> 
> And if so, how long? 
> 
> Jock
> 
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2024 at 2:28 PM Ted Durant  > wrote:
> 
> On Wednesday, April 10, 2024 at 2:48:19 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Also, you can get brand new 9sp bar cons from Rivendell at $140, and 
> elsewhere for a few dollars less.  Some people run bar cons on their down 
> tube shifter bosses, and they work long fine.
>> 
>>  FYI, Grant tells me that he thinks Shimano has stopped making the 9sp 
>> bar-end shifters "after 25 or 26 years of making them". Get 'em while you 
>> can, and expect the price to get eye-watering. 
>> 
>> And, yes, you can run them on the down tube. Interesting bit of RBW history 
>> ... I pointed this out to Grant a long time ago, and that the opposite was 
>> true, that downtube shifters could be mounted on Shimano bar-end pods. And 
>> thus were born the Silver 1 bar-end shifters.
>> 
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee WI USA 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] 1st world commuting dilemma

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
Nice Atlantis! I recommend a cable lock thru the wheels too. Else you’ll come 
bake to a frame without wheels!

> On Dec 8, 2023, at 6:50 AM, Bill Schaefer  wrote:
> 
> Josh,
> 
> I actually lock mine up to the single bike rack in the loading dock of my 
> building. Its in an area open to the public but its under an overhang so it's 
> not getting rained on, and not too many people go down there, so its 
> definitely a unique situation, and a bit safer than locking on the street 
> since its only visible to anyone who wanders down there. Here's a pic from 
> yesterday I snapped leaving work. The "reserved for management" sign makes me 
> chuckle every time (that's for the car parking space).
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 1:09:56 PM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:
>>  Ginz - Thanks for the reply. I feel like riding it and using it for its 
>> intended purpose is probably the right answer. I just feel like it may be a 
>> bit of a target. IDK, it’s mostly us nerds that think Rivss are cool and not 
>> beach cruisers anyway, right… Forgive me if I should know; do you commute on 
>> a Rivendell Ginz? 
>> 
>> Hoch - My commute is short as well, and by design. The last time I moved and 
>> got a new job I made sure that my work was in the same zip code as my 
>> residence. I see your point about riding the Ogre, but again, it’s not a 
>> cheap bike to replace either. Also, my job is too all-consuming to worry 
>> about anything else while at work; which can good and bad at times. 
>> 
>> Cody - Thanks for adding some real-world experience commuting with that 
>> killer Hillborne. You’re right, people seem to know Surly better (at least 
>> here in the Midwest) I probably get more compliments on the Ogre and my 
>> daughter’s Crosscheck than I do my Rivs. Thanks for adding the pic of your 
>> bikes…notes the saddle lock…is that wrapped in an old tube? 
>> 
>> Bill - Well put. That’s how I’m viewing it. Again, I put more miles on the 
>> drop bar Atlantis but I ride my commuter WAY more often. Bill, do you have 
>> the luxury of taking your daily driver inside or do you park out in the 
>> wild? I’d love to see a pic too if you've got time. 
>> 
>> Josiah - Love that you ride those bikes around and lock ‘em up outside. I do 
>> figure that most people don’t think the Atlantis is cool enough to steal, 
>> not compared to other bikes around. Indy used to get snow regularly, all 
>> winter long, but now we get maybe 1 or 2 good snows and the rest is just 
>> slop. If it’s too nasty I’ll just drive. I don’t have time in the mornings 
>> to show up covered in road sludge. 
>> 
>> B - I agree
>> 
>> Patrick - Told ya. First world problem indeed. I work in a hospital in 
>> critical care and there just really isn’t anywhere to put it. I do park out 
>> of the way as much as possible but can't take it in. I love that Matthews 
>> and your utilitarian approach to John’s strap-rigged, awkward, package 
>> haul’n 
>> 
>> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 12:58:48 PM UTC-5 George Schick wrote:
>>> I used to do multi-mode commuting before I retired about 18 years ago - 
>>> ride the bike to the station, take train to the city, walk 4-5 blocks to 
>>> the office.  Never worried much about theft out here in the 'burbs while 
>>> working downtown because it was an old early 70's Fuji that I had re-geared 
>>> and converted for commuting.  It was the ideal bike for that - rode well, 
>>> handled well, and was by no means an eye-catcher.
>>> 
>>> BUT, I'd be way more concerned about salt damage during the Winter months 
>>> (used to live in the Indy area myself and, yes, they use it on the streets 
>>> there in abundance) and riding on hazardous icy slick surfaces than I would 
>>> theft.
>>> 
>>> BTW, why the classification of your Indy location, or the U.S. for that 
>>> matter, as a 1st World country in particular?  In many ways nowadays it is 
>>> backsliding into 3rd World status.
>>> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 11:13:15 AM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
 Speaking of parking indoors: our priest got tired of me taking the bike 
 into the church (well, it was until a couple of weeks ago a prefab now 
 used as the hall) to park it in the bathroom or library or kitchen, so he 
 gave me a key to the outside utility closet. I had seniority rights as I'd 
 been parking inside since about 1995 and he only arrived in about 2010.
 
 I think he gave me the key after I wheeled my Ken Rogers into the library 
 at the start of a parish council meeting 
 
 On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 10:05 AM Patrick Moore > wrote:
> First world problem indeed! But I felt it back when I commuted to an 
> office.
> 
> First, is there any way you could cajole, plead, whine, insist that your 
> employer let you park your bike inside? Do you have an office? I was 
> always able to park the bike in my office (once I had a second office as 
> a garage) and that solved many problems -- one 

Re: [RBW] Brooks B68s, Dura-Ace 7403 front derailleur (NOS), IRD Alpina front derailleur with clamp

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I will buy the B68.
valie...@mac.com

> On Oct 13, 2023, at 10:53 AM, J J  wrote:
> 
> Hi all, selling a few nice items. Please reach out privately if you're 
> interested. Thanks!
> 
> 1) Brooks B68s saddle (like new, $135 shipped)
> This is the "s" version, a few millimeters shorter than the regular B68. 
> Textured leather, beautiful, hard to find. Treated with Brooks Proofide and 
> some areas are slightly darker. Ridden twice for short distances. No saddle 
> bag ever mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Dura-Ace FD 7403 front derailleur. Bottom pull, 28.6 clamp. (NOS with 
> original box, $142 shipped) 
> Beautiful polished silver, classic model. One of the few Dura-Ace FDs that 
> has the sweet (and subtle) Dura-Ace logotype/emblem on it. Adjustable spring 
> tension. Pristine condition. 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) IRD Alpina front derailleur. Bottom pull, includes 28.6 clamp (excellent 
> condition, $45 shipped)
> Mechanically like new. Some chain rub on the cage. 
> 
>  
> 
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Re: [RBW] Are Paul brakes worth the money?

[James Valiensi]

Are Paul brakes worth the money? - in a word YES!


> On Oct 7, 2023, at 6:37 AM, Will Boericke  wrote:
> 
> After some wear, brake pads need to be re-toed in, because they will wear 
> flat to the rim surface.  I suspect that will solve your problems.
> 
> Will
> 
> On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 9:04 AM Kim H.  > wrote:
>> I would enjoy hearing the feedback from those folks, who have used Yokozuna 
>> brake pads verses Salmon Koolstop pads. Are they any better ? or ?
>> 
>> Kim Hetzel.
>> 
>> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 4:45:43 AM UTC-7 Julian Westerhout wrote:
>>> Bill, 
>>> 
>>> Salmon Koolstop pads stop well, but can be noisy, especially if they hit 
>>> the rim flat or slightly toed out. It is possible/probable that after 5 
>>> months the pads have worn enough to change the way they hit the rim, and 
>>> need to be adjusted a bit to be slightly toe-in. 
>>> 
>>> Julia Westerhout
>>> Bloomington, IL 
>>> 
>>> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 5:50:35 AM UTC-5 Bill Fulford wrote:
 The brakes are cantilever with salmon pads. I assume that the are properly 
 mounted. The squawking began after about five months of riding. In the 
 beginning there was no noise.
 
 On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 10:50:09 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com <> 
 wrote:
> That noise is typical of a he salmon pads that ship on Paul brakes. 
> salmon pads stop really well but I’ve had several pair on different bikes 
> and different brake styles and after a bit they all started to make noise 
> no matter how I adjusted them. I’ve also found that Paul Motolites in 
> particular do not like having racks mounted to them. This made any 
> existing brake noise multiples worse I assume due to the two sides being 
> more rigid mounted together allowing for different resonance to occur and 
> generate more noise. This was particularly apparent on my Gus I assume 
> due to its unique front end geometry.
> 
> My opinion on the Paul Motolites is mixed. On the one hand, they’re 
> beautiful and the quick release mechanism is nice compared to typical 
> v-brakes with the noodle holding it all together. The adjustment 
> mechanism is also a work of arm and does make adjusting for different 
> when sizes a bit nicer. However, I’m not sure they’re worth the money 
> purely on the basis of function. To me they’re like a designer handbag. 
> They make a nice accessory when paired with other nice accessories and a 
> good outfit they can be stunning. But at the end of the day, a $5 handbag 
> holds stuff as well as a $300 handbag. My $30 Shimano Alivio v-brakes 
> stop my Appaloosa just as well as the $300 Motolites on my Gus. But my 
> Gus is my pretty show bike that I take out on the town on a Sunny 
> Saturday to get things at the farmer’s market. My Appaloosa is my daily 
> driver. I lock it up outside of stores and restaurants and ride it, rain 
> or shine, to work 5 days a week. It’s still a nice bike but the parts on 
> it are more utilitarian in nature. The frame is the flashiest piece of 
> kit on the whole bike and I like it that way.
> 
> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:24 PM Julian Westerhout > 
> wrote:
>> Bill, 
>> 
>> Which brakes are they?  Which pads are you using? Are they properly 
>> slightly toed in? 
>> 
>> Photos would help in making a diagnosis -- but I doubt the squawking is 
>> due to the brakes themselves -- more likely to be pad type and/or setup. 
>> 
>> Julian Westerhout
>> Bloomington, IL 
>> 
>> On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 7:54:00 PM UTC-5 Bill Fulford wrote:
>>> I bought Paul brakes for my Atlantis and initially loved them. Now, 
>>> however, they squawk like a stuck goose. I’ve cleaned the rims, sanded 
>>> the pads but with no success. They were installed by a bike shop so I 
>>> don’t think that’s the problem. It’s embarrassing to ride at times. I’m 
>>> looking for suggestions to ease the noise. Thanks in advance. Bill
>>> 
>>> On Tuesday, January 10, 2023 at 9:58:13 AM UTC-5 Bill Schairer wrote:
 I have a set of cantilevers and a set of center pulls, both purchased 
 used off this list, I think.  What I really like about both sets is 
 how easy it is to disconnect and re-connect the straddle cables making 
 wheel removal and installation so much easier.  Even though I didn't 
 pay full retail they were still quite pricey compared to what I had.  
 I don't regret my purchases at all.
 
 Bill S
 San Diego
 
 On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 9:29:03 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com <> 
 wrote:
> Paul brakes are worth it. 
> 
> If you buy, try and decide you don't like them you can sell them for 
> close to what you paid!
> 
> On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 

Re: [RBW] Ebike Clem

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I had our Clem converted to an Ebike with the Bafabg mid motor kit. 750W 
system. We got the rack mounted battery. I did it for my 85 year old dad, who 
only rides ebikes now. He found it too hard to get on and off the Clem and 
stuck with his small-wheeled ebike.
I’ve ridden it several times.
1. The added weight does not affect the bike handling.
2. I generally pedal faster than the motor on the flats, so it is still a 
workout
3. It is fun to go up steep hills at 15mph.
4. The wires and motor hanging off the bike kills my OCD, its ugly and my was 
done by a professional.
5. You have to be careful when making tight turns, have the motor off or in the 
lowest setting, else the bike will throw you.  

> On Jul 19, 2023, at 5:02 AM, Andy Beichler  wrote:
> 
> My wife and I have converted two bikes with a mid drive kit very similar to 
> the Luna Cycle kit that Joe posted.  We are very happy with them, so far. It 
> has been about a year and they are still going strong. 
> 
> On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 3:00:01 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>> It's fits in a standard BB shell. 
>> 
>> https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbs02-750w-middrive-kit/
>> 
>> On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 11:42:01 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:
>>> 
>>> I was not aware that you can do a mid-drive conversion (I thought the frame 
>>> had to be special designed to accept the drive-unit instead of a bottom 
>>> bracket). How did you do it?
>>> -Wes
>>> On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 11:03:34 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
 Looks like you're good there, Stephen, 250W is pretty mellow. Yes it's the 
 torque that would concern me with a more powerful hub motor; no bad 
 experiences (I used 250W on an Appaloosa), I just try not to be too crazy 
 with slim fork blades not designed with a motor in mind. Most 
 front-hub-motor bikes I see are running really beefy forks. 
 
 My first build was a ridiculously powerful rear-hub Clem, Grant rode it! 
 Then I did a few with even more ridiculously powerful mid-drives, those 
 were tons of fun. But I'm out of the ebike game these days. Maybe in the 
 future I'll try one again. 
 
 Joe Bernard 
 
 On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 6:46:52 AM UTC-7 Stephen wrote:
> Hey Joe,
> 
> That would be because of too much torque on a weak fork I presume? I'd be 
> curious to hear more about your experiences with eRivs, and is that a 
> determination you've made based on a bad experience? Have you done both 
> front and rear type motors? I have to admit I'm pretty clueless when it 
> comes to the details of ebikes in general, but I hope that since this kit 
> is intended to be universal it will be safe enough for the type of riding 
> my father will be doing and that the company would be responsible enough 
> to highlight potential incompatibilities. It does seem like eBikes are 
> still a bit of a wild west of little to no regulation.. Unfortunately the 
> kit website is pretty limited in describing its technical specifications 
> (it is very much designed for non technical people) and I can't find a 
> spec as to whether its a 250w or 500w motor, but it does list a 40nm 
> torque. How does that speak to your experience?
> 
> I didn't notice anything bad on my test ride yesterday, but I suppose 
> I'll give it a longer ride today and see if I notice any dangerous fork 
> flex...
> 
> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 10:02:46 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>> Looks fun but - as a fellow who's built a few eRivs - I gotta throw in a 
>> warning here about wattage. If that's a 250W hub you're good, I would 
>> worry about 500W on Riv's spindly forks. 
>> 
>> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 4:33:14 PM UTC-7 Stephen wrote:
>>> Thought I'd share my project of the day: electrifying this clem L for 
>>> my Dad.
>>> 
>>> A little backstory:
>>> 
>>> My family and I all chipped in a few years ago to get my Dad a Clem 
>>> complete in an effort to give him a fun and healthy exercise activity 
>>> following a near death heart attack in 2020. Despite really liking the 
>>> look and comfort of the bike, his level of fitness was really limiting 
>>> the amount of time he could spend on it. He'd be wiped in under 30 
>>> minutes, and unfortunately living in the suburban south, safe and 
>>> accessible riding is fairly limited and largely unexciting unless 
>>> you're covering big miles out on country roads. Add to that the fact 
>>> that his main riding partner, my mom, has been a long time road cyclist 
>>> with a much higher level of fitness, they ended up getting him an ebike 
>>> from rei. Its made a huge difference in how much he's able to ride and 
>>> his willingness to ride, but he's still been partial towards the Clem. 
>>> 
>>> So my folks ordered an ebike conversion kit, gosh, like a year ago and 
>>> it finally 

Re: [RBW] Re: Let's talk about the All Rounder

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
Well that is interesting. I had the impression they hadn’t done the rack mounts 
earlier, from the conversations I had with them when placing my order. Perhaps 
it was a rare request back then. 
Anyways - I am happy the mounts are more or less standard now a days, they are 
so useful!

That green bike is very nice.

> On Mar 22, 2023, at 5:07 PM, Andrew Letton  wrote:
> 
> My Joe Stark '99 All-Rounder has rack mounts on the fork blades.  
> Was it maybe just that Curt had not yet done rack mounts on the fork blades 
> for Rivs at that point?
> cheers,
> Andrew in Sydney
> 
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:02:02 AM GMT+11, James Valiensi 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi,
> When I ordered my custom Rivendell in 2002 I requested rack mounts on the 
> fork blades. They hadn’t done this before. I had to send a drawing showing 
> what I wanted. They agreed and Curt Goodrich made my frame. Joe Stark was 
> supposed to be my builder, but he went of the reversvation before he started 
> on it. I met Curt a few times and I’m super happy with his work. 
> 
> So, front rack mounts were not part of the normal Rivendell catalog 20 years 
> ago.
> 
> James
> 
>> On Mar 10, 2023, at 11:31 AM, m f > <mailto:rockthrower...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi - I'm new here! Not sure how many of you saw this on eBay over the past 
>> few months, but I was able to work with the seller and found a way to buy 
>> this 2000 All-Rounder (Curt Goodrich). I have a couple updates in mind 
>> (sweptback handlebar, Brooks saddle), but those will happen with time. First 
>> step will be new tires and tuning the mechanicals (Dura Ace except for 
>> crankset) so I can get a ride or two under my belt. If the seller is in this 
>> group - thanks again for all the help!
>> 
>> Questions for the group: 
>> It seems odd to find an All Rounder, or any Riv for that matter, without 
>> rack mounts on the upper/mid fork blade. Would this have been a special 
>> request to not have them?
>> What are the markers that indicate the frame was painted at Joe Bell's shop?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sunday, March 20, 2022 at 8:09:10 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>> The All Rounder like the XO-1 before it gets a lot of interest and praise, 
>> but I think that, like the XO-1 that preceeded it, it is an early design 
>> that has been superseded and bettered by later Grantian bikes, starting with 
>> the Atlantis and continuing with the Sam Hillborne and doubtless the more 
>> recent models.
>> 
>> I say this having owned an XO-1 and having bought a custom Road based on the 
>> All Rounder, with lighter (753) tubing and slightly more upright hta (IIRC). 
>> My 1999 and 2003 Road customs, also built for 26" wheels, are better "All 
>> Round" both on pavement and in dirt than either XO-1 and the first Road 
>> custom, with much longer chainstays, slightly sacker head, and upsloping tts 
>> with extended head tubes. 
>> 
>> I say again that the later Road customs ride better on dirt, particularly 
>> sandy surfaces, than the XO-1 and the first gen, AR-based road custom.
>> 
>> I think -- but I am open to reasoned rebuttal -- that an Atlantis or Sam 
>> Hill would be better for all round riding than either XOs or ARs.
>> 
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> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Let's talk about the All Rounder

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
When I ordered my custom Rivendell in 2002 I requested rack mounts on the fork 
blades. They hadn’t done this before. I had to send a drawing showing what I 
wanted. They agreed and Curt Goodrich made my frame. Joe Stark was supposed to 
be my builder, but he went of the reversvation before he started on it. I met 
Curt a few times and I’m super happy with his work. 

So, front rack mounts were not part of the normal Rivendell catalog 20 years 
ago.

James

> On Mar 10, 2023, at 11:31 AM, m f  wrote:
> 
> Hi - I'm new here! Not sure how many of you saw this on eBay over the past 
> few months, but I was able to work with the seller and found a way to buy 
> this 2000 All-Rounder (Curt Goodrich). I have a couple updates in mind 
> (sweptback handlebar, Brooks saddle), but those will happen with time. First 
> step will be new tires and tuning the mechanicals (Dura Ace except for 
> crankset) so I can get a ride or two under my belt. If the seller is in this 
> group - thanks again for all the help!
> 
> Questions for the group: 
> It seems odd to find an All Rounder, or any Riv for that matter, without rack 
> mounts on the upper/mid fork blade. Would this have been a special request to 
> not have them?
> What are the markers that indicate the frame was painted at Joe Bell's shop?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sunday, March 20, 2022 at 8:09:10 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
> The All Rounder like the XO-1 before it gets a lot of interest and praise, 
> but I think that, like the XO-1 that preceeded it, it is an early design that 
> has been superseded and bettered by later Grantian bikes, starting with the 
> Atlantis and continuing with the Sam Hillborne and doubtless the more recent 
> models.
> 
> I say this having owned an XO-1 and having bought a custom Road based on the 
> All Rounder, with lighter (753) tubing and slightly more upright hta (IIRC). 
> My 1999 and 2003 Road customs, also built for 26" wheels, are better "All 
> Round" both on pavement and in dirt than either XO-1 and the first Road 
> custom, with much longer chainstays, slightly sacker head, and upsloping tts 
> with extended head tubes. 
> 
> I say again that the later Road customs ride better on dirt, particularly 
> sandy surfaces, than the XO-1 and the first gen, AR-based road custom.
> 
> I think -- but I am open to reasoned rebuttal -- that an Atlantis or Sam Hill 
> would be better for all round riding than either XOs or ARs.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I believe Jobst road bikes made by Peter Johnson of north California. Peter’s 
frames were the best made, ever. I met and road with Peter a few times, and 
seen his frames without paint, his craftsmanship was without peers.

> On Feb 2, 2023, at 7:15 AM, George Schick  wrote:
> 
> Considering the very large size frame shown in these various photos I'm 
> surprised that he still insisted on using DT shifters - that'd be a long 
> reach.  'Course, I suppose it didn't matter much since he didn't shift very 
> often...
> 
> On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 10:02:29 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
> Given the stubbornness and native retrogrouchery he exhibited during his 
> 80-something years of riding -- he was riding basically the same sort of bike 
> in 2010 as he rode in 1960 -- I'd guess that if he were riding in 2023 he'd 
> be riding the same thing. 
> 
> I think this is one of his last bikes; an all terrain bike by his usage. He 
> did progress to a threadless stem and clipless pedals.
> 
> Laing remarks on the absence of helmets in the Tom Ritchey article photos. 
> The photos seem to be from the 1970s or early 1980s, back before helmets 
> became common; I recall buying my first helmet circa 1986 or 1987 -- that 
> heavy Bell VI-Pro made of thick, stiff plastic, but helmets then at least in 
> W DC, were just becoming common.
> 
> The proportion of his 700C wheels to his seat tube -- 68 cm? -- is very like 
> that of my 559 wheels to my 58 cm seat tube.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 8:49 AM Andrew Turner  > wrote:
> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a nod to 
> current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. As a result, 
> it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you spliced his timeline 
> and moved his prime days to current day. 
> 
> Today's Radavist 
> 
>  article really fueled that question so I'd like to open it up to this group 
> who likely have much more insight into the man and his bike(s). 
> 
> What are we thinking? Rim brakes or disc? Carbon? Steel? Ti? I see a lot of 
> similarities between him and Jan Heine as far as a desire for performance and 
> reliability, so perhaps he'd lean towards a rando build?  
> 
> Take it away if you wish, 
> Andrew
> 
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> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] YOUR BACK SHRINKING

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I noticed that shorter stems felt better. I measured my height and I think I 
lost an inch or more (I’m 59). So, the shorter stem makes since, but my saddle 
height hasn’t changed. 
Before the pandemic my favorite bike had the bars about 4” lower than the 
saddle. At the end of the ride, it felt like I peeled my self off the bike, 
like bare legs on a vinyl seat on a hot sticky day. Durning the pandemic the 
low handlebars became too painful to ride and I started raising them. I’m much 
happier with the center of the bars about the same height as the saddle. I sit 
more upright, and as a result have much less back and neck pain. On the down 
side, I couldn’t mod my favorite bike and it is no longer used. 
Best-
James

> On Sep 25, 2022, at 9:26 PM, Kim Hetzel  wrote:
> 
> As we get older, the handlebars get higher and the gears get lower.
> 
> I used to ride in the drops for 40 years. It affected my posture a lot to the 
> point that I had to retire my favorite bike and find a different one. I 
> longed to ride upright.
> 
> At 67 years old, I now ride and feel very comfortable riding my new Clem 
> Smith Jr. "L" bicycle. 
> 
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
> 
> On Thursday, September 22, 2022 at 6:19:11 PM UTC-7 kwi...@weimar.edu wrote:
> Yes, I used to be 6’7” tall.  At 62, I am now one inch shorter.  I have moved 
> my saddle closer to the bars.  It immediately solved my aching lower back on 
> steep climbs.
> 
> On Thursday, September 22, 2022, 'Charlie' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  > wrote:
>  I USED TO RIDE ON DROP BARS . ONE TIME I NOTICED I WAS RIDING ON THE TOPS 
> ONLY.  SO I CHANGED TO UP BARS ( 3 SPEED BARS ) . I HAD LOST 2-3 INCHES IN MY 
> HEIGHT.
> I NOW RIDE A SMALLER BIKE .
> Charlie Petry JENERSVILLE PA
> 
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Re: [RBW] Celebrating Triangulation

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I recently bought a Mouton. When I saw that PortaPed in AZ had one in orange, I 
jumped on it. They are hard to get and its rare to find the exact one you want 
in stock.
They ride really nice but are sensitive to tire selection. I get the best 
performance with Schwalbe One tires on it. 

> On Sep 24, 2022, at 7:30 AM, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA 
>  wrote:
> I've always liked but never ridden a Moulton. The Space Frame concept is 
> appealing on a number of levels, and the spin offs are many - some a little 
> excessive IMHO. Fun to see how people are thinking about frames, structure, 
> materials and assembly techniques. Here are just a few I've run across that 
> got my attention:
> 
> Starting with the Moulton classic
> <43e339da98ee9cc2b1c1799047bcbce1.jpeg>
> 
> This one a titanium riveted erector set style from BME Design
> 
> 
> Here's the full view
> <0ceea0e490d7a78b1eb2eff691d507b8.jpeg>
> It's not easy being green - especially if you are the builder...
> 
> Another BME creation - carbon this time<6cee7b5562bc58ec48649553c2d66562.jpeg>
> This last one is a little over the top...Wonder what the frame alone weighs?
> 
> 
> Not sure if any of these beats a classic diamond frame in terms of elegance, 
> but I appreciate the effort that is evident in all of them. Please add your 
> favorites if the mood strikes. 
> 
> Marty
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Are Paul brakes worth the money?

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I’ve had many Paul Comp brakes. His brake levers are the best out there. Worth 
every penny and will last forever. 
I like his Motolite brakes and they are only thing better than Shimano V-brakes.
I’ve used the Racer brakes will good success, but they are not really 
improvement over normal caliper brakes. 
I don’t like any type of cantilever brakes, but the quality is there.

They cost a bunch of money if you buy them new. But in return you’ll have 
reliable brakes that will last as long as the bike frame will. I have his 
brakes over 15 years and they still work like new.

> On Sep 25, 2022, at 10:52 AM, Bill Fulford  wrote:
> 
> I was recently gifted $500 to Rivendell. My plan was to upgrade my 2007 
> Atlantis with Paul brakes and levers. I placed the order only to read later 
> that the brakes are sold per wheel. That’s  more than I wanted to spend. So 
> before I call Rivendell tomorrow morning to cancel I’m wondering how folks 
> feel about these brakes? I would be ordering the linear pull brake with love 
> levers. Are they worth it?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Chain Jam

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
It appears the front derailleur was positioned too high. Your chain rings look 
okay. 
When the derailleur is in the middle spot, the bottom of the outer cage should 
be about 1/16” (1.9mm) above the tips of the big chainring.
Also, you have a lot of chain to get it wrapped up like that. I think it may be 
too long. If you wrap the chain around the big chainring and big cog, without 
going thru the rear derailleur, the chain should have 2 links more than needed 
to connect the loop. 

Best luck

James

> On Sep 15, 2022, at 7:43 PM, Matthew Williams 
>  wrote:
> 
> My chain jammed in my front derailleur. What happened?
> 
> I wasn’t going fast or slow, I hadn’t shifted gears, and I wasn’t putting any 
> unusual stress or power on the drivetrain. I was just cruising along a flat 
> street, gently pedaling, when suddenly my cranks locked and I couldn’t pedal 
> forward or backward. 
> 
> I coasted to a stop and looked down. The chain was fouled and jammed in the 
> front derailleur, and the rear derailleur was parallel with the chainstays. I 
> walked my bike home and took photos of the damage. I have many questions for 
> you experts:
> 
> 1: What caused this? How and why did my chain get jammed in the front 
> derailleur? 
> 
> 2: Does this breakdown have a name?
> 
> 3: Is this something I did or failed to do e.g. bad shifting, lack of 
> maintenance, is something bent or misaligned, or is it just the inevitable 
> entropy from mileage and time?
> 
> 4: How do I prevent this from happening?
> 
> 5: How do I fix it and what tools will I need if I’m out on a long ride?
> 
> Photos below.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
If the handlebar clamp on the stem is too loose the bars will slip and rotate 
in it. The bolt needs to be really tight.
You can tell if the headset is loose with this method:
1. stand in front of the bike
2. wrap one o your hands around the top nut, stem and top of the head tube
3. hold the front brake lever realy hard with the other hand
4. push the bike back and forth a bit
5. if the headset is loose you will feel the differ parts moving under the hand 
that is wrapped around the headset

Some of the longer bars are flexible. I have a Losco and it is so flexible that 
I quit using it.

Good luck!

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 4:51 AM, Daniel MacPherson  wrote:
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> I’m having issues with my handlebar set-up. I’m running Nitto Technomic stem 
> with Billie bars. The Billie bars are 25.4. The Nitto stem is 26.0. I’m using 
> a problem solvers shim to fit the bars properly.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I get a lot of flex in the Billie bars when I apply any weight to the 
> bars. I’ve applied a lot of torque to the nut on the stem and it helps a bit 
> but doesn’t solve the issue. I’m worried it might be the headset; however the 
> headset appears tight and smooth. Have you guys experienced similar issues? 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> Daniel MacPherson
> 
> Tallahassee Florida
> 
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-4 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
> Good to know Daniel! I have the stock DXR pads on for now. Only have 100 
> miles or so and I still have no grind or squeal. Something I have been 
> annoyed with since going to disc brakes 15 or so years back. 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:44:03 AM UTC-7 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
> I fixed the squealing on my Susie by toeing in the Kool Stop pads just now.  
> It's worth the try if you are getting annoyed by the constant screech. 
> 
> 
> Sincerely, 
> 
> Daniel M
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 8:07:10 AM UTC-4 Paul Clifton wrote:
> Good to know the Salmon pads squeal for lots of people. This isn't my first 
> fight with salmon pads on motolites, but it's the first time I asked about 
> it. I'll just swap out the pads like usual, and there will prob be a free for 
> shipping salmon pads post here once I get everything sorted out. I have at 
> least 2 sets to get rid of now.
> 
> Wally, the dual compound mountain pads are my go to. I haven't had any 
> problems with them squealing before. There must be something about the shape 
> of the thinlines that leads to the squeal.
> 
> Paul
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:59:35 AM UTC-5 wallye...@gmail.com <> wrote:
> I'm running Paul Motolites and the Kool Stop mountain pads, in salmon, for my 
> Gus.  No issues for fit or squealing.
> 
> 
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 6:30:18 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
> I have found that the thin line salmons, when working, are great pads but by 
> far the fussiest to setup. Getting them to be quiet can require such 
> ludicrous amounts of toe-in that the pad wont last more than 1000 miles. One 
> trick that has worked previously worked is cleaning the pads themselves with 
> isopropyl and then with hot detergent water. Not one or the other. Both, in 
> that order.
> I am trying the grey cheapy pads that riv started selling with Neo-retros on 
> my Susie and the setup was painless, and the braking is far improved to my 
> previous experience with Neo-retros.
> Sometimes everything just works, sometimes It doesn't, and if I could tell 
> which was which in advance I'd never learn anything.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Rosco Platypus Presale

[James Valiensi]

Helm watches came up with the best way to fairly sell their watches. They 
cannot keep up with demand. 
They used to send an email announce when the pre-sale would begin. They even 
had a page telling their customers the best methods to use to successfully 
purchase a watch. 
I got one, once. I sat a my computer trying to add one to the cart a few 
minutes before the pre-sale. I finally got one. It was like the old days of 
calling into a radio station for tickets. 
The next time something went wrong with their computers and the sale never went 
live. A day later they sent an email blast telling everyone what happened and 
announcing the sale would start again, in an hour. I didn’t get the email to 
many hours later and missed it. I and many others were not happy. I complained 
and many others did too, because they found a better way.

Now, if you want a Helm watch, you go to the web site and add your name to the 
list. You will get a place in line and they will let you know when its your 
turn. There is plenty of notice, no penalty if you back out and a 48-hr window 
to make the purchase.

This is much better and shows that Helm cares about those that support them.


> On Jul 14, 2022, at 12:26 PM, Will Ashe  wrote:
> 
> I bought a 60 purple. These are not going as fast as I expected. 
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 2:07:44 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> six minutes in, and 55 Purple is showing sold out
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 12:06:27 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
> Five minutes in, all sizes and colors still available. Some are down to 2-3 
> left though. 
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022, Bill Lindsay > wrote:
> It's live right now.  It lets me add a 55 purple to my cart.  I'm going to 
> leave it for you to buy though
> 
> BL in EC, hitting refresh
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 10:37:47 AM UTC-7 James Valiensi wrote:
> I went to the page and it said sold out. How do you read that?
> 
> The pre-sale lottery sucks. Many other industries use it, to build excitement 
> and make people want stuff. I don’t like it.
> 
> I want no part of this.
> 
> 
>> On Jul 14, 2022, at 10:31 AM, Joe Bernard > wrote:
>> 
> 
>> James, how did you determine they were already sold out when the page you 
>> landed on announces when the presale begins? The title of this thread has 
>> presale in it so you knew the frame wasn't available yet. 
>> 
>> Joe Bernard 
>> 
>> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 6:51:01 AM UTC-7 James Valiensi wrote:
>> I remember when Rivendell used to be cool… 
>> Now they seem greedy and sanctimonious. 
>> I had some interest in getting a purple Rosco Platypus for my wife. I was on 
>> a job site all day yesterday and could get to the internet until this 
>> morning, and the bike is sold out. 
>> Its false scarcity to make people rush to buy. Why they cannot order enough 
>> bikes? The factory can make more, they can have another shipment. No 
>> financial excuses, people are pre-paying. 
>> I’ve was a customer since 1994 and always helped when Grant asked for money 
>> or sells. And he did. I have a Custom Rivendell and a Joe A. I’ve bought 
>> several other models. I’ve drive from LA to his shop to buy and visit many 
>> times. 
>> But now I’m pissed and done with them. 
>> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rosco Platypus Presale

[James Valiensi]

I went to the page and it said sold out. How do you read that?

The pre-sale lottery sucks. Many other industries use it, to build excitement 
and make people want stuff. I don’t like it.

I want no part of this.

> On Jul 14, 2022, at 10:31 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> James, how did you determine they were already sold out when the page you 
> landed on announces when the presale begins? The title of this thread has 
> presale in it so you knew the frame wasn't available yet. 
> 
> Joe Bernard 
> 
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 6:51:01 AM UTC-7 James Valiensi wrote:
> I remember when Rivendell used to be cool… 
> Now they seem greedy and sanctimonious. 
> I had some interest in getting a purple Rosco Platypus for my wife. I was on 
> a job site all day yesterday and could get to the internet until this 
> morning, and the bike is sold out. 
> Its false scarcity to make people rush to buy. Why they cannot order enough 
> bikes? The factory can make more, they can have another shipment. No 
> financial excuses, people are pre-paying. 
> I’ve was a customer since 1994 and always helped when Grant asked for money 
> or sells. And he did. I have a Custom Rivendell and a Joe A. I’ve bought 
> several other models. I’ve drive from LA to his shop to buy and visit many 
> times. 
> But now I’m pissed and done with them.
> 
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[RBW] Rosco Platypus Presale

[James Valiensi]

I remember when Rivendell used to be cool…
Now they seem greedy and sanctimonious. 
I had some interest in getting a purple Rosco Platypus for my wife. I was on a 
job site all day yesterday and could get to the internet until this morning, 
and the bike is sold out.
Its false scarcity to make people rush to buy. Why they cannot order enough 
bikes? The factory can make more, they can have another shipment. No financial 
excuses, people are pre-paying. 
I’ve was a customer since 1994 and always helped when Grant asked for money or 
sells. And he did. I have a Custom Rivendell and a Joe A. I’ve bought several 
other models. I’ve drive from LA to his shop to buy and visit many times. 
But now I’m pissed and done with them. 

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Re: [RBW] Prescription sunglasses with progressive lenses

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have good luck w/ Wiley X brand. I get my prescription made for the frames.

> On Jul 1, 2022, at 7:11 AM, Jamie Kaplan  wrote:
> 
> Can anyone recommend sunglasses brand that is good for progressive 
> prescription lens with optimal coverage?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Clem L Paint Crisis

[James Valiensi]

That sucks. I just spilled super glue on a 8k paint job, so I feel your pain.

That can be easily fixed. It has to be sanded smooth. Then primed and lightly 
sanded. The color is solid and should be easy to match. A little elbow grease 
and it will blend in like was never scratched. 

See if there is a RAL number for paint. There are places where you can order 
spay paint made to custom colors. 

Or just ride the liven’ crap out of it, like there is no tomorrow (well, 
because there may not be one) and repaint the entire frame down the road. 

Cheers!

> On Jun 22, 2022, at 8:45 AM, Jay Lonner  wrote:
> 
> That’s a tough break and I can understand your disappointment. Riv/Grant 
> seems to be of two minds when it comes to stuff like this – on the one hand 
> they extol the aesthetics of fancy lugs and exquisite Joe Bell paint jobs, 
> and on the other they seem pretty laissez faire about “beausage” (ugh) once 
> the bikes are in the wild. 
> 
> I don’t know how rare these frames are, and how attached you are to this 
> particular vintage/color, but unless you got a substantial break in the price 
> I think you have the right to expect an intact paint job. If it really 
> bothers you (esp. as a splurge for your 64th birthday) I think you’d be well 
> within your rights to return it and keep looking. Touch-up paint and nail 
> polish are fine suggestions, and will look OK from 10 feet away, but won’t 
> undo the damage. Bikes that get ridden get dinged up, no doubt about it, so 
> if you can make your peace with the fact that damage is inevitable maybe you 
> can just live with it.
> 
> I also like the idea of a strategically deployed decal or sticker, but I 
> think one must be careful to not to go overboard. I have one sticker on my 
> Hunq and it’s from the Association of Caffeinated Wheelers 
> (https://bradclick.bigcartel.com/products 
> ), which suits my aesthetic quite 
> well. Maybe you can find a sticker relating to a hobby or cause that you 
> connect with that would cover and/or distract from the defect.
> 
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
> 
> Sent from my Atari 400
> 
>> On Jun 22, 2022, at 7:19 AM, Kiley Demond  wrote:
>> 
>> As some of you know, I have been looking for an early-model 59cm Clem L, 
>> preferably orange with blue the runner-up. I preferred frame-only because I 
>> knew that I would probably replace 80% of the components. For some reason, I 
>> took the wheels too. The frame was pristine but in shipping, the wheels were 
>> lashed to the frame with a tie-wrap, the hub protector popped off, and the 
>> hub proceeded to gouge the frame for several days in transit.
>> 
>> I bought this for myself for my 64th birthday and I am bitterly 
>> disappointed. I can return the frame and start my search over, or I can 
>> propose remediation. What will it take to fix this? I can live with a little 
>> bit of marking but it obviously needs to be repaired to seal the frame and 
>> reduce the cosmetic sting. I can contact Riv about touch-up paint, but the 
>> frame is from 2016, so
>> 
>> Thank you in advance for your thoughts.
>> 
>> -Kiley
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Indexing Rapid Rise Questions

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
As a matter of fact, derailleur cables do not stretch. The forces involved in 
shifting are many orders of magnitude lower than the yield stress required to 
stretch the cable. What actually happens is that inside liner of the cable 
housing wears and causes the cable to become looser. Generally, a half turn out 
of the cable tension adjuster will compensate for this.

> On Feb 27, 2022, at 7:59 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> On a new bike yes, the cable has probably stretched. If you're not familiar 
> with fiddling with indexing I'll try a short explainer. 
> 
> If you have the older style Deore there will be a cable adjuster on the 
> derailer where the housing ends. Put your bike in the middle cog (5th gear on 
> a 9-speed). Is the pulley directly under that cog? You can turn the adjuster 
> counterclockwise to move it leftward, towards the bigger cogs; clockwise to 
> move right, closer to the smaller cogs. Shift up and down the cassette, 
> you'll probably need to do this a few times until the indexing is correct.
> 
> If it's a newer Deore without the adjuster on the derailer you can use the 
> one at the shifter. Which I find super annoying so I don't buy those kind so 
> I don't know which way to turn it, but you'll figure it out after a few turns 
> this way and that. Good luck! 
> 
> On Sunday, February 27, 2022 at 6:59:34 PM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
> I cannot answer your question but I am having a similar problem on my Clem 
> with a Deore rear mech. I suspect cable stretch on this new bike?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Feb 27, 2022, at 7:10 PM, Drw > > wrote:
>> 
>> Ok, so I had a rapid rise derailler around and all this talk from rivendell 
>> got me to put it on my partner's bike that i'm building up. I can't for the 
>> life of me get it to index correctly. Not saying the derailler is the 
>> problem, but i've never had this issue with regular pull deraillers, so im 
>> wondering if i'm missing something.
> 
>> 
>> Components:
>> Rivendell Platypus 
>> Microshift 9 speed thumb shifter for shimano (new)
>> 9 speed shimano cassette (not new but good shape)
>> Deore LX rapid rise derailer (not new but good shape)
>> 
>> 
>> Specific symptoms:
>> -Can tune it to get the highs and lows, but the middle 2-3 gears get it 
>> jumping all over and not engaging with the cassette. 
>> 
>> Any thoughts would be appreciated,
>> Drew. LA
>> 
> 
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[RBW] WTB - Clem L 45

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
Looking for a small Clem for my 82 year old dad.
Please let me know.
Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do you use a torque wrench? Or are they a

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
That type of torque wrench requires calibration to know if it is reading 
correctly.
An accurate and repeatable torque wrench will cost 10x as much. What you have 
is no better than using a plain ratchet. 
Sorry.

> On Sep 25, 2021, at 12:15 PM, aeroperf  wrote:
> 
> Capri 31000 torque wrench

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Re: [RBW] Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

[James Valiensi]

I need a Fat Ass Road Bike, any suggestions?

> On Sep 20, 2021, at 7:22 AM, John G.  wrote:
> 
> I can't believe I almost missed a chance to comment on my favorite topic! 
> You, my friend, are looking for a Regular Ass Road Bike. There are a ton of 
> good suggestions here. Here's my take as a Roadeo owner with a stable of 
> RARBs from the late 70s/early 80s:
> 
> -  I love my Roadeo, but I also love my Mercian Superlight, my Mercian 
> Vincitore, my Nishiki Ultimate, etc. 
> - Be careful going after a full touring frame. I have a Voyageur SP. It's 
> very stately, but not very spritely. A touring frame will almost quite 
> certainly throw you into the pain cave that is 27-inch to 700C with Cantis 
> conversion.
> - That being said, and as others have mentioned, you can get GREAT results 
> with a caliper-equipped frame originally made for 27-inch tires. My Vincitore 
> was made for 27 inch tires, and it now fits 35mm 700c under fenders. 
> - a decent frame from that era is worthy of some new components, especially 
> wheels. You'll just need to be mindful of rear spacing. I've been very happy 
> with the VO 126mm hub.
> - Cranks might be an issue, too. A lot of them come with 52/42 chainrings 
> with annoying BCDs like 144. FWIW, I can handle a 53 chainring better on a 
> standard diameter bike than on an OS bike.
> 
> If I were you, I'd buy Craig's Mercian in a heartbeat. Don't worry about 
> being precious about it. My Superlight is pretty beat up and has far too much 
> surface rust. You can always get it repainted, which is my plan.
> 
> 
> On Friday, September 17, 2021 at 10:07:51 PM UTC-4 max.c@gmail.com wrote:
> Paul, I may be interested in that Puch...how much time left do you have with 
> it? :)
> 
> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 1:41:42 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:
> 
> I recently let a 1986 Schwinn Passage go to a new owner after enjoying a lot 
> for around 3 years.
> 
> The only reason I did sell it was because I bought a Sam Hillbourne about a 
> year ago and have been riding it more.
> 
> I think the Columbus Tenax tubing of which the Passage is made is pretty good 
> stuff. 
> 
> On my 23" Passage frame I squeezed in 700x40 tires with perhaps 2 mm 
> clearance on each side in the rear with no problems with true wheels. 
> 
> The other touring bikes mentioned also might suit your needs.
> 
> I've had a Specialized Expedition,  
> Miyata  610, Miyata 1000, Nishiki Cresta, Nishiki International, and a custom 
> touring bike.
> 
> I don't think from my experience the Passage gave up much to them in riding 
> performance or feel or whatever. 
> 
> It had fewer  braze on bosses than some touring models but rode terrific.
> 
> The cantilever posts are a bit more narrow and would not accept some 
> cantilever brakes but I just used the Dia Compe original cantilevers with 
> higher quality pads and I thought they stopped quite adequately.
> 
> Good luck with your search.
> 
> The past two weeks I've been  tinkering with a 1982, I think,
> 24" Puch Austro Daimler Vent Noir Reynolds 531 frame with the smoked chrome 
> finish.
> 
> I can fit Jack Brown 700x 33.3 in the rear no problem. 
> Non original fork , I don't care for,
> however will only take a 32.
> 
> I'm searching for a chrome replacement fork. 
> 
> Good luck with your search.
> 
> Paul in Dallas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
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Re: [RBW] Pauls Shimano Thumbies

[James Valiensi]

Scott. They sold a long time ago for asking price.

> On Aug 22, 2021, at 2:13 PM, Scott McLain  wrote:
> 
> Hi James,
> Are these still for sale?
> 
> Best, Scott
> 
> On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 8:57:06 AM UTC-6 James Valiensi wrote:
> Hi,
> Pauls Components thumb shifter mounts with Dura-Ace 9sp shifters. 
> The Dura-Ace shifters are a little beat up. Looks like the bike was turned 
> upside down to change a flat, several times, and the shifter tops were the 
> part that touched the ground. So, I couldn’t get the right one to go to index 
> mode. Both shifters seem to work in friction mode just fine. 
> The Paul's Thumbie mount appears in great shape. 
> 
> $80 - includes shipping and PP fees.
> 
> Best regards
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Who likes the original Atlantis?

[James Valiensi]

HI,
I have built many frames, some have 80,000 miles on them.
There are a few reasons tubes are thicker at the ends, which is commonly called 
butted tubes, but the process that makes them is called swedged. 
The thicker ends allow the frame to have a much longer life and helps reduce or 
prevents fatigue failure. 
If you study the equations for bending you will notice the material hardness 
does not factor in it. Only material property is the modulus of elasticity. The 
hardness figures in the equations for fatigue life. 
Some steel tubing was made from ‘air’ hardening steel. It was to be tig welded 
and the heat of welding would harden the joints. This allowed for shorter butts 
and therefore lighter frames. 
Bigger diameter tubes allows for thinner walls. 
The best riding and lightest frames I made used Columbus Peggo-Richie tubing. 
I’d fillet braze the joints and use a cast bottom bracket. You can fill the 
frame respond to every pedal stroke yet the ride was sublime and smooth. This 
tubing was double over-sized and designed for tig welding (Peggoretti) and lugs 
(Richard Sachs) and I found low temperature silver fillet brazing to work very 
well with it. ( I have a very special alloy for this).

Toyo Riv’s are far better frames than Bridgestones, but not quite as good as a 
lugged Trek form the 80’s or any steel Colnago. I learned this by fixing or 
modifying all these frames. A custom Riv is a very nice frame. 

> On Aug 5, 2021, at 12:45 PM, iamkeith  wrote:
> 
> Is it possible that a tube can have shorter butted (thickened) sections at 
> its ends if it is going to be brazed in place vs welded?  Is more material 
> necessary to compensate for the annealing that occurs from the higher 
> temperatures encountered during welding?  Taking advantage of such ability 
> would require some care by builder and designer in selecting or specifying 
> the right tubes, of course.  I've never thought about this before, but 
> respect Bruce's experience enough to wonder if there isn't something to it. 
> (Sorry for the continued thread drift)
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cycling apps for Apple Watch

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I’ve been bicycling since 1970 and never once had a bike computer. They are 
totally not needed.
Enjoy the ride...

> On Jun 30, 2021, at 12:45 PM, David Hallerman  wrote:
> 
> I like Ride With GPS a lot, too. It’s helped me stop using cyclocomputers, 
> which is far more relaxing. No info about speed or distance to distract me 
> during the ride, but then after my curiosity gets sated by looking through 
> the Ride With GPS data.
> 
> Best of both worlds!
> 
> Dave, who will most definitely not put any digital devices on the handlebars 
> of the amazing new green Rambouillet that arrived here today but that’s a 
> topic for another post
> 
> On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 12:21 PM Robert Hakim  > wrote:
> I really like Ride With GPS!
> Pretty similar to strava, but it doesn't have the KOM/social competitive 
> features that strava ships with. 
> 
> -Robert 
> 
> On Wednesday, June 30, 2021 at 12:14:23 PM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
> Strava.  Just tracking commutes and joining local challenges (like Freezing 
> Saddles, etc).  The watch app can independently track your ride then sync 
> with the phone later, if you prefer that route.
> 
> Be prepared for Strava to encourage you to be "the fastest" and refer to you 
> as an "athlete" constantly.  Super annoying.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Susie/Wolbis Front-Center Question

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
Longer wheel bases make the bike ride smoother and (to a degree) more stable. 
The really long rear chain-stays are good for carrying bags, because your heals 
do hit them. 
Long chain-stays are harder to ride off road, because they make it harder to 
lift the front (wheelie) over stuff.  
Making the chain-stays so long that the user has to buy two chains to make a 
drive train is a little cruel. 
I could cut four inches off my Joe A chain-stays and be happy with it. 

> On Mar 16, 2021, at 1:57 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> Riffing slightly off Garth's very Garthy statement, "no one knows why it 
> works" is kinda Grant's vibe and why he doesn't like to answer "How long is 
> the toptube?" I gave him my PBH (plus he's seen me) and told him what I 
> wanted my custom to be like and he said "Sounds good, I'll call you when it's 
> ready." Numbers? I didn't need any stinking NUMBERS! 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 1:38:54 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
> Because the spread out wheels is like riding a horse in stride.  Yes, I 
> thought of a techie answer, but frankly that never says anything of substance 
> that anyone can instantly if ever relate to. It's like the teacher talking in 
> Charlie Brown . wah wah wah .. whatever !  
> 
> 
> Picture riding a horse .. feel that stability that sureness of the 
> hooves flying through the air and landing in grace and elegance . that 
> "wow" ... that smile on your face .  
> 
> What's funny to me is that despite all the theories of the world, still no 
> one has a clue of "how life works" because trying to figure things out is 
> "barking up the wrong tree". It's never happen cuz nothing ever happen-ed. 
> . teeheehee. 
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:53:55 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
> My very non-knowledgeable answer is the long front-center allows for high 
> stack-height and a slack fork angle with way-reach-back bars like Boscos 
> without cramping the rider. My custom was specifically designed for those 
> bars and to be ridden with them way up there to accommodate arthritis in my 
> hands (I can't lean forward much) and the front-center is wa longer than 
> I would have believed would work for me. It's perfect and turns similar to 
> every other Riv I've owned. 
> 
> Summary: I think it matters a lot what bars you're going to use. Most Rivs 
> these days aren't designed with straight-and-flat bars or drops. 
> 
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 11:39:33 AM UTC-7 reca...@gmail.com <> wrote:
> Hello All,
> 
> Since I've been very slowly getting into DIY framebuilding over the past few 
> years, and by way of it, trying to better understand why some geometries work 
> for me and my kind of riding over others, I have come to appreciate the 
> method of builders like Waltworks in terms of using front-center as a guide 
> for putting together a frame geometry with relation to getting the rider's 
> weight distribution the way they want it (i.e. getting the bike to ride and 
> fit the way one wants).
> 
> A corollary to this is that a builder might then use, like Waltworks the 
> following method (paraphrased):
> 
> pick the trail you want
> pick where you want your wheels to be
> pick BB height
> make sure the person can then fit the bike in the desired position(s) through 
> HT length, stem, bars, etc.
> So my long-winded question is, with Grant's emphasis on getting more upright 
> and weight to the back while making the chainstays longer to accommodate 
> this, what might be the corresponding logic of making the front-center length 
> of the Susie/Wolbis almost so long? Is it a matter of making the total 
> wheelbase longer or a function of the slacker HT and corresponding fork 
> offset/trail), a combo? Perhaps I am wondering most importantly is, what are 
> the ride characteristics of such a choice? Does it still handle in the way 
> that most other high-trail bikes characteristically do? I ask because I am 
> really interested in this design, understand the benefits of longer 
> chainstays especially for my kind of more upright position and preferred 
> weight distribution, but have still found that my favorite kind of bike that 
> I have ridden so far has a longish rear-center, lowish trail, and a  
> front-center about 10cm shorter than that of the Susie. I am by no means a 
> low trail evangelist, so  I guess what I am looking for are some impressions 
> in terms of front-end handling of the bike? 
> 
> Thank you all and please excuse (direct me to the discussions) if this has 
> been covered here before. 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Let's see your shop and workbench

[James Valiensi]

I am lucky to have a house and a full garage shop. I used to make frames in it. 
I have way too many bike tools.
But years ago I used to live in an apartment. I had fewer tools, but bikes were 
simpler and less was needed. Even a Campy full tool kit was more than you 
needed to maintain bicycles. 
I did not have a Park type work stand. I had a stand that held the rear wheel 
up by grabbing the left seat and chain stays. It's perfect for cleaning, 
replacing chains, adjusting. 
My apartment had a tiny balcony, just long enough for the bike and me. Thats 
where I’d do the dirty work, like chain cleaning. 

Remarkably, bicycles require little care. If you keep them relatively clean and 
lubed, they will roll on forever. One must to remember to clean in betweem the 
stem & steerer tube, where sweat drips and will eventually corrode the stem and 
steerer tube together permanently.



> On Mar 3, 2021, at 9:56 PM, Jason Fuller  wrote:
> 
> Feeling the jealousy as a (insanely expensive) city apartment dweller!  I 
> dream of a workshop as well as a garden one day - but not here, since 
> liveable detached houses start at ~$1.6M currently in my hood. 
> 
> My workshop is the bit of space between our kitchen island and our living 
> room 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: I decided to ditch LOSCO

[James Valiensi]

Its like toe-clip overlap - its no big deal, unless it kills you...

> On Feb 23, 2021, at 1:30 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> Roberta,
> 
> One person's "too flexy" is another person's "absorbs some road vibration", I 
> wouldn't worry too much. I didn't notice any difference in stiffness feel 
> between it and the Boscos I ride. 
> 
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 1:01:03 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:
> James and Brett.
> 
> I got a LOSCO from a forum member for my soon (where soon is defined as 
> sometime this spring) to be Platypus.  Now I'm a bit nervous.  Is it that you 
> ride your bikes "rougher and heavier" that makes the difference?  What about 
> someone like me who will just go riding around town,  with some "as fast as I 
> can go" rides, and only a handlebar bag (Carradice Zipped Roll) up front?
> 
> Roberta
> 
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 11:48:31 AM UTC-5 brettjc...@gmail.com 
>  wrote:
> James, your experience with the Losco was similar to my experience with the 
> Billie bars. I found the Billie's and an 11CM stem on my Atlantis to be too 
> flexy when carrying a load. I ended up going back to albatross bars on a 
> slightly shorter stem. A little flex was fine, but it was just too much, 
> especially on a heavy bike. I've been tempted to try out the Loscos or Toscos 
> on a lighter bike where I don't carry a front load. 
> 
> Brett in PDX
> 
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 5:37:43 AM UTC-8 James Valiensi wrote:
> I left him by the creek…. 
> Actually, I put LOSCO bars on my Riv custom road frame. I really liked the 
> upright position and the width of the bars. I also have a Joe A but it has 
> Albatross handle bars. 
> I found the LOSCO bars to be too flexible. I was never sure if they were 
> flexing or slipping in the stem. It was a bit disconcerting. 
> 
> I need to have my bars higher than I am used too. I ordered a new 60mm Nitto 
> FacePlater stem and a Rene Herse Maes parallel handle bar. The clamp diameter 
> is 31,8mm. The bigger diameter is a stiffer tube and the bars will not flex 
> as much as 25.4 or 26mm bars would. 
> I hope the bars will be an inch or two higher than the saddle. The reach is 
> slightly shorter than I used before, and that help keeps my upper body 
> straighter. 
> 
> Traditional shaped bars have some advantages, like many hand positions and if 
> you have them high enough one can use the drops for the headwinds. 
> 
> I will post a photo when the parts get put on. 
> 
> The folks here sure have beautiful bikes. I ride in the north LA area and 
> there is no shortage of bike riders out here. But I can ride everyday for a 
> month and never see the kind of stuff posted here. 
> 
> I was fixing a friends Rivendell and as we were loading his bike on the car 
> rack a doordash guy came by and said “That’s a Rivendell!”. We spent the next 
> 20-min talking about it and Rivendell bikes. 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: I decided to ditch LOSCO

[James Valiensi]

I notice the flex from normal riding. I do not ride “loaded” other than my fat 
ass. I’m not sure how a loaded bike would impart more force to the handle bar, 
if loads are not placed on the bar.
Hit a few bumps and I feel it moving. I have the longest Nitto forged stem I 
could get (130mm) That may contribute to it. But the Joe A has the same stem 
and with the Albatross it does not flex. But perhaps more of the stem is in the 
steerer tube.
I’ve done a few hundred happy miles with the LOSCO and I just decided to 
change. 

I’d say try it, you may like it. 

> On Feb 23, 2021, at 1:01 PM, Roberta  wrote:
> 
> James and Brett.
> 
> I got a LOSCO from a forum member for my soon (where soon is defined as 
> sometime this spring) to be Platypus.  Now I'm a bit nervous.  Is it that you 
> ride your bikes "rougher and heavier" that makes the difference?  What about 
> someone like me who will just go riding around town,  with some "as fast as I 
> can go" rides, and only a handlebar bag (Carradice Zipped Roll) up front?
> 
> Roberta
> 
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 11:48:31 AM UTC-5 brettjc...@gmail.com wrote:
> James, your experience with the Losco was similar to my experience with the 
> Billie bars. I found the Billie's and an 11CM stem on my Atlantis to be too 
> flexy when carrying a load. I ended up going back to albatross bars on a 
> slightly shorter stem. A little flex was fine, but it was just too much, 
> especially on a heavy bike. I've been tempted to try out the Loscos or Toscos 
> on a lighter bike where I don't carry a front load. 
> 
> Brett in PDX
> 
> On Tuesday, February 23, 2021 at 5:37:43 AM UTC-8 James Valiensi wrote:
> I left him by the creek…. 
> Actually, I put LOSCO bars on my Riv custom road frame. I really liked the 
> upright position and the width of the bars. I also have a Joe A but it has 
> Albatross handle bars. 
> I found the LOSCO bars to be too flexible. I was never sure if they were 
> flexing or slipping in the stem. It was a bit disconcerting. 
> 
> I need to have my bars higher than I am used too. I ordered a new 60mm Nitto 
> FacePlater stem and a Rene Herse Maes parallel handle bar. The clamp diameter 
> is 31,8mm. The bigger diameter is a stiffer tube and the bars will not flex 
> as much as 25.4 or 26mm bars would. 
> I hope the bars will be an inch or two higher than the saddle. The reach is 
> slightly shorter than I used before, and that help keeps my upper body 
> straighter. 
> 
> Traditional shaped bars have some advantages, like many hand positions and if 
> you have them high enough one can use the drops for the headwinds. 
> 
> I will post a photo when the parts get put on. 
> 
> The folks here sure have beautiful bikes. I ride in the north LA area and 
> there is no shortage of bike riders out here. But I can ride everyday for a 
> month and never see the kind of stuff posted here. 
> 
> I was fixing a friends Rivendell and as we were loading his bike on the car 
> rack a doordash guy came by and said “That’s a Rivendell!”. We spent the next 
> 20-min talking about it and Rivendell bikes. 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
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[RBW] I decided to ditch LOSCO

[James Valiensi]

I left him by the creek….
Actually, I put LOSCO bars on my Riv custom road frame. I really liked the 
upright position and the width of the bars. I also have a Joe A but it has 
Albatross handle bars.
I found the LOSCO bars to be too flexible. I was never sure if they were 
flexing or slipping in the stem. It was a bit disconcerting. 

I need to have my bars higher than I am used too. I ordered a new 60mm Nitto 
FacePlater stem and a Rene Herse Maes parallel handle bar. The clamp diameter 
is 31,8mm. The bigger diameter is a stiffer tube and the bars will not flex as 
much as 25.4 or 26mm bars would. 
I hope the bars will be an inch or two higher than the saddle. The reach is 
slightly shorter than I used before, and that help keeps my upper body 
straighter. 

Traditional shaped bars have some advantages, like many hand positions and if 
you have them high enough one can use the drops for the headwinds.

I will post a photo when the parts get put on.

The folks here sure have beautiful bikes. I ride in the north LA area and there 
is no shortage of bike riders out here. But I can ride everyday for a month and 
never see the kind of stuff posted here.

I was fixing a friends Rivendell and as we were loading his bike on the car 
rack a doordash guy came by and said “That’s a Rivendell!”. We spent the next 
20-min talking about it and Rivendell bikes. 

Cheers!

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Re: [RBW] Cutting rack stays

[James Valiensi]

I use a portable bandsaw mounted in a SWAG OFF ROAD stand and a belt sander to 
clean it up.
Any other way is just pure hackery- :)

> On Dec 30, 2020, at 7:17 AM, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles 
> <4824...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> For me/us the quickest way was to keep everything on the bike for 
> fitting/leveling, mark stays, loosen rack and slide the rack down on the 
> strut so there's enough clearance to cut, cut with bolt cutters and clean up 
> with a coarse file.
> 
> No fumes/grinding dust contaminating your breathing space, overheating struts 
> and no risk of tools jumping off the strut and nicking anything. 
> 
> my two cents ☺
> 
> Alex in Rochester 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Chainstay dimples and kickstand kisses

[James Valiensi]

Structurally you are okay.
You can get a kick stand plate brazed on, if you ever decide to repaint the 
frame.

> On Dec 28, 2020, at 8:27 AM, Eric Marth  wrote:
> 
> Iecently removed my Pletscher bipod kickstand and noticed some mutilation to 
> my chainstays. Pictured below is my LHT, the kickstand was installed by the 
> previous owner. The sight brought to mind Grant's warning on the kickstand 
> hardware listing: "This is one of those terribly useful aftermarket problem 
> solvers that can save the day or wreck your frame, depending on how you 
> attach it." 
> 
> Just how bad is this? Cause for concern or shall I carry on? 
> 
> Thanks for your collective wisdom. 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 19-year old Riv

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
The RH instructions tell you to install the cranks dry. Which I did. This goes 
against my normal method. So, in the end I greased the spindle and bolt and 
tightened it all down. So, far so it has held up. 
My BB is a cheap Shimano. Perhaps the SKS BB has a better fit.

> On Dec 18, 2020, at 11:54 PM, jack loudon  wrote:
> 
> Patrick: "Have others had James's problem with RH cranks loosening? If so, I 
> shall resolutely avoid buying one." 
> 
> There was a thread about RH cranks coming loose a few months back, and mine 
> are among a few that have had that issue. It happened more in the beginning 
> and decreased in frequency over time (mine are near 3 years old).  I got in 
> the habit of checking the tightness at least once a week.  I use socket hex 
> bolts instead of the supplied crank bolts, so carry a small hex key instead 
> of a big PB wrench.  I finally installed self-extractor caps over the bolts 
> (suggested by Mark Bulgier?) which act as locknuts and seem to have solved 
> the problem.   Like James, I've installed many cranksets in the past and the 
> bolts have always stayed tight.  I'm not sure what the problem is with these 
> cranks, but my guess is an imperfect fit with the BB spindle (mine is a Phil, 
> JIS taper).I still  like them but for $455 they shouldn't have any issues.
> 
> Jack - Seattle
> 
> On Friday, December 18, 2020 at 4:55:40 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
> I believe you. I wonder if your instance was a production outlier.
> 
> Have others had James's problem with RH cranks loosening? If so, I shall 
> resolutely avoid buying one.
> 
> On Fri, Dec 18, 2020 at 1:48 PM James Valiensi  > wrote:
> Patrick,
> I’ve mounted hundreds of tapered-square bottom brackets, only one came loose 
> and that was because I didn’t tighten it enough. 
> This one required much more tightening force than any other one I’ve dealt 
> with before (Campy, Shimano, TA, Sugino to mention a few I’ve worked on). 
> My RH crank came loose about 4 times, I started to carry a wrench after the 
> 2nd time. Finally, I figured I had nothing left to lose and put the breaker 
> bar to it. It’s been good for a few thousand miles since.
> 
> I’d love to have another on for my Joe Appaloosa. Maybe one day I’ll pony up 
> for another (pardon the pun). I would not recommend against it.  
> 
>> On Dec 18, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Patrick Moore > > wrote:
>> 
>> James's report on the RH crank surprised me, since I have thought that I 
>> might one day buy one. But this report of loosening does not make me 
>> confident.
>> 
>> Have others had the same experience with loosening?
>> 
>> Note: I am aware how hard it is to get a response from RH "customer 
>> service." My method to force things is to post an indignant message of 
>> complaint on the iBoblist, which seems somehow to chivvy the inert little 
>> gnomes of service into immediate, ingratiating action. Try it at home.
>> 
>> But back to RH cranks: do they loosen more than, say XD2s and Pro 5 Vises? I 
>> don't think I've had 1 crank out of scores if not hundreds come loose, 
>> except for very cheap Indian-made cottered ones that I probably installed 
>> with the wrong-sized cotter pin, and that was 50 years ago.
>> 
>> I certainly am not doubting James's experience, but I'd like to know others'.
>> 
>> On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 3:53 PM James Valiensi > > wrote:
>> Thanks for the kind words.
>> The Rene Herse crankset was on my list of most wanted parts for many years 
>> before I pulled the trigger.
>> It gave me a bunch of grief. It came loose several times. It wasn’t the 1st 
>> time I mounted a taper spindle crank set. I’ve done hundreds of times. The 
>> only time one came loose for me, was the very first time I did it. I 
>> couldn’t believe this one. I ended up using a breaker bar to tighten it down.
>> This was the end of my desire to send Jan Hein any more money. He has 
>> absolutely no customer service. No phone number listed, no responses to 
>> multiple emails, no help or support. He has all my contact info but refuses 
>> to give his out. He has nice parts, too bad they are not sold by better 
>> people.
>> -- 
>> 
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 19-year old Riv

[James Valiensi]

Patrick,
I’ve mounted hundreds of tapered-square bottom brackets, only one came loose 
and that was because I didn’t tighten it enough. 
This one required much more tightening force than any other one I’ve dealt with 
before (Campy, Shimano, TA, Sugino to mention a few I’ve worked on). 
My RH crank came loose about 4 times, I started to carry a wrench after the 2nd 
time. Finally, I figured I had nothing left to lose and put the breaker bar to 
it. It’s been good for a few thousand miles since.

I’d love to have another on for my Joe Appaloosa. Maybe one day I’ll pony up 
for another (pardon the pun). I would not recommend against it.  

> On Dec 18, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
> 
> James's report on the RH crank surprised me, since I have thought that I 
> might one day buy one. But this report of loosening does not make me 
> confident.
> 
> Have others had the same experience with loosening?
> 
> Note: I am aware how hard it is to get a response from RH "customer service." 
> My method to force things is to post an indignant message of complaint on the 
> iBoblist, which seems somehow to chivvy the inert little gnomes of service 
> into immediate, ingratiating action. Try it at home.
> 
> But back to RH cranks: do they loosen more than, say XD2s and Pro 5 Vises? I 
> don't think I've had 1 crank out of scores if not hundreds come loose, except 
> for very cheap Indian-made cottered ones that I probably installed with the 
> wrong-sized cotter pin, and that was 50 years ago.
> 
> I certainly am not doubting James's experience, but I'd like to know others'.
> 
> On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 3:53 PM James Valiensi  <mailto:jpvalie...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Thanks for the kind words.
> The Rene Herse crankset was on my list of most wanted parts for many years 
> before I pulled the trigger.
> It gave me a bunch of grief. It came loose several times. It wasn’t the 1st 
> time I mounted a taper spindle crank set. I’ve done hundreds of times. The 
> only time one came loose for me, was the very first time I did it. I couldn’t 
> believe this one. I ended up using a breaker bar to tighten it down.
> This was the end of my desire to send Jan Hein any more money. He has 
> absolutely no customer service. No phone number listed, no responses to 
> multiple emails, no help or support. He has all my contact info but refuses 
> to give his out. He has nice parts, too bad they are not sold by better 
> people.
> -- 
> 
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 19-year old Riv

[James Valiensi]

Andy,
I’m originally from north of your area, New Castle PA. My folks still live 
there. I keep a bike at their house. There is a really nice bike trail that 
runs along the Mahoning River between New Castle and Youngstown OH. Have you 
ridden it? It is ten miles one way and not exactly challenging or too exciting 
but I love riding it because it is so different that pedaling in LA. The trail 
was built on an old electric trolly right of way that ran from Youngstown to 
Cascade Park in New Castle. I think it was from the late 19th century. One time 
I found some of the original bricks from the tracks and the date was something 
like 1890.

I try to be careful with my bikes. I have a friend that is the opposite, he can 
take a brand new bike and make it look 25 years old in a month.

Cheers!

> On Dec 18, 2020, at 6:31 AM, ascpgh  wrote:
> 
> James, your custom is a thing of beauty! It is a fantastic time capsule of a 
> Rivendell. 
> 
> My 2002 Rambouillet, following Pam's comparison, shows its campaign stripes 
> in what I describe as beausavage in respect to the events leading to this 
> place in time. 
> <8B80B8D9-58CA-432E-BFCB-F16028B6930B_1_105_c.jpeg>
> 
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
> 
> On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 8:20:28 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:
> Pristine!  How do you keep it so new looking?  Most people think mine is 
> vintage b/c it has so much beausage.
> 
> On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 7:51:36 PM UTC-5 James Valiensi wrote:
> Yes my math was bad. I ordered the frame Aug 2002 and it was delivered Feb 
> 2003.
> I requested the front rack braze-ons for a front rack. At the time Rivendell 
> had not done this. I had to send a drawing of where to put them. Now they are 
> standard.
> I also requested an extra low bottom bracket. I’m not sure they would do that 
> again because there is an issue with pedal strikes while cornering. I don’t 
> pedal thru fast corners (I enjoy coasting!)
> 
> I have a carpenter that I’ve used for many years, he does excellent work. 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 17, 2020, at 4:32 PM, Ian A > wrote:
>> 
> 
>> Really nice looking bike and the new handlebars suit well. I also admire the 
>> impressive tile work in the background.  Is there a stone mason in the 
>> family?
>> 
>> I appreciate this year would like to have been skipped by many, but isn't 
>> 2003 - 2020 closer to 17 years?
>> 
>> :) IanA Alberta Canada (where we are about 30 years behind the rest of the 
>> world).
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 19-year old Riv

[James Valiensi]

Yes my math was bad. I ordered the frame Aug 2002 and it was delivered Feb 2003.
I requested the front rack braze-ons for a front rack. At the time Rivendell 
had not done this. I had to send a drawing of where to put them. Now they are 
standard.
I also requested an extra low bottom bracket. I’m not sure they would do that 
again because there is an issue with pedal strikes while cornering. I don’t 
pedal thru fast corners (I enjoy coasting!)

I have a carpenter that I’ve used for many years, he does excellent work. 

> On Dec 17, 2020, at 4:32 PM, Ian A  wrote:
> 
> Really nice looking bike and the new handlebars suit well. I also admire the 
> impressive tile work in the background.  Is there a stone mason in the family?
> 
> I appreciate this year would like to have been skipped by many, but isn't 
> 2003 - 2020 closer to 17 years?
> 
> :) IanA Alberta Canada (where we are about 30 years behind the rest of the 
> world).
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 19-year old Riv

[James Valiensi]

Thanks for the kind words.
The Rene Herse crankset was on my list of most wanted parts for many years 
before I pulled the trigger.
It gave me a bunch of grief. It came loose several times. It wasn’t the 1st 
time I mounted a taper spindle crank set. I’ve done hundreds of times. The only 
time one came loose for me, was the very first time I did it. I couldn’t 
believe this one. I ended up using a breaker bar to tighten it down.
This was the end of my desire to send Jan Hein any more money. He has 
absolutely no customer service. No phone number listed, no responses to 
multiple emails, no help or support. He has all my contact info but refuses to 
give his out. He has nice parts, too bad they are not sold by better people.


> On Dec 17, 2020, at 2:19 PM, Dave Redmon  wrote:
> 
> That's a looker for sure, James. What is the beautiful crankset?  I recall 
> having one like it a few years ago.   --Dave in Kansas
> 
> On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 10:13:28 AM UTC-6 James Valiensi wrote:
> I’ve had my Rivendell custom since Feb 2003. It’s been thru several 
> iterations. I just fitted the Losco handle bars and long stem. The red pedals 
> are hideous, don’t you think? 
> 
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Re: [RBW] 19-year old Riv

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I’m a regular parts changer, I like to try different combinations. But this is 
really close to the first build.
The fenders and headset are original. The shifters are the same thing, but new 
because the originals are missing parts.
The wheels are about ten years old. They are lightweight for racing bikes but 
are strong and feel super fast.
The tires are a Specialized cottons. Its my second set, I worn one set out this 
year. I highly recommend these tires.
The rear derailleur came with my wife’s Clementine. I replaced an older Ultegra 
long cage with it and was surprised to find a noticeable difference in chain 
drag. The bigger wheels do make a difference. 
The 1st Brooks saddle was replaced in kind.
The Campy Nouvo Record seat post has a filing job, that I learned from the late 
Brian Baylis. 
Original brakes where Shimano long reach, then Velo Orange came out with the 
Grand Creu billet jobs. They are very good brakes. I just got the Paul levers, 
the  high polish remind me of Harley Davidson parts.

I’ve tried a front rack and this bikes handling get much worse with it on. 
Actually, the steering on this bike is not neutral. It likes to dance around 
and tucks in towards the center of curves. It takes me a few rides to get use 
to it, if I don’t ride it regularly. Grant & Curt blew it here.

> On Dec 17, 2020, at 8:54 AM, Collin A  wrote:
> 
> That is an immaculate bike, and I actually like the pop of red on those 
> pedals!
> 
> Is this version 19.1, or has is stayed mostly the same throughout those 19 
> years?
> 
> Cheers,
> Collin, almost as young as Rivendell, in Sacramento
> 
> 
> On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 8:30:03 AM UTC-8 Damien wrote:
> Well, wow. This is a really lovely Riv. Thanks for sharing.
> 
> Fun fact: your bike is legal drinking age in Canada!
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Post Ur Riv

[James Valiensi]

That sure is nice!
James

> On Oct 26, 2020, at 3:56 PM, Ulysses O  wrote:
> 
> <7BCEDF01-AA76-4285-90C9-63FDA9EC76A8.jpeg>
> 
> Bought this from a member here. Very happy with the fit and ride quality 
> considering I’ve never seen or test ridden one. Took a few months to paint 
> and build, worth the wait 珞
> 
> Anyone have a small Fabio’s Waxed Chest they wanna sell lol ?? I know they 
> just launched it but I missed the launch cuz I was riding my bike 臘
> On Saturday, October 24, 2020 at 1:25:41 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
> Looks awesome, Lucky!  I love the look of those tires (Simworks' branding is 
> such a breath of fresh air in the bike world, totally unique and fun) and 
> have heard they're grippy but certainly a bit slow on pavement.  I might try 
> them on my Bombadil one day if I find myself riding enough dirt to justify 
> it.  
> 
> Tomorrow I intend to have some pics of the new steed with bags when I try to 
> ride up to the snow line (around 800m, I believe, I'm at sea level) for 
> coffeeneuring. tbd! 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Herse v. VO Crankset

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have a Herse crankset I bought from Jan Hein. They are beautiful and I wanted 
one for many years before I decided to pony up. They are costly.
Works as good as it looks, but here is the rub:
I’ve mounted hundreds of cranks over the past 30+ years. I’ve only ever had one 
come loose: the very 1st one I mounted. The Rene Herse crankset one came loose 
so many times that I kept a Campy peanut butter wrench in my bag. I mistakenly 
followed Jan’s directions to the letter.
I finally did it my way, greased the spindle and used a 3/8” breaker bar to 
torque it on. Been good ever since. 
I tried to contact Rene Herse cycles only to find they don’t respond to emails 
and don’t list their phone number on their web site. I thought, what a 
stinker!, he’s got all my contact info. The whole experience kinda soured me 
towards Rene Herse cycles.

The new Silver crankset would be most enjoyable if bigger chainrings were 
available. A 104 four-bolt bigger than 36 is hard to find.

> On Oct 5, 2020, at 1:46 PM, dave_manze...@yahoo.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am building up an Atlantis and have decided to use a 46/30T Andel 3-pin 
> crankset. I purchased directly from Andel at a cost of $135 plus shipping.
> Dave
> Cleveland, OH 
> 
> 
> On Monday, October 5, 2020 at 1:27:15 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:
> Brady:
> 
> The Herse crankset is beautiful and beautifully made and will probably be on 
> the road decades from now with a little care. However, it’s expensive.
> 
> If your goal is a machine that rides and looks well, a VO crankset will be 
> just fine … and you can spend the money you’ll save on something else.
> 
> You might also consider finding a used TA Cyclotouriste or a Stronglight 
> crankset of the same design. Chainrings interchange between the two (TA rings 
> seem to be preferred, as both my Stronglight cranksets have them) and there 
> are lots and lots of them available on eBay and elsewhere. Here’s the 
> slightly dirty Stronglight crankset on my Centurion Pro Tour:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A set of TA arms and rings in nice condition will polish up very nicely with 
> a little elbow grease. (Don’t use the Quick-Go product that Grant 
> recommends—it’s designed to remove rust and corrosion from steel, and makes 
> polished alloy dull. Use Simichrome instead.)
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
> 
> 
>> On Oct 5, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Brady Smith > > wrote:
>> 
> 
>> Hi all, 
>> 
>> I'm planning some improvements to my BMC Monster Cross and a new crankset is 
>> among them. I had it built with a 48x34 setup but after riding it for a 
>> while I've decided 46x30 is probably more my speed. 
>> 
>> I'm curious as to the group's thoughts on the merits of the Velo Orange and 
>> Rene Herse models. I'm sure the VO is fine, and I've had nothing but good 
>> experiences with their products. But from what I gather, the Herse model has 
>> much nicer finishing and Herse makes a whole line of compatible chainrings 
>> that let you mix and match as you change terrain. 
>> 
>> Should I save a little money and go with the VO model or go all in and buy 
>> the Herse crankset?
>> 
>> The primary purpose is randonneuring, but I do plenty of general riding on 
>> this bike as well.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Brady
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Cycling Increased during Pandemic

[James Valiensi]

Just read this article:

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-54353914

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Re: [RBW] Looking for in house bike stand/holder

[James Valiensi]

Feedback sports has nice floor stands for storage. I use them.

> On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:19 AM, Joel Stern  wrote:
> 
> David, not a work stand, not yet anyway. I want the bikes to be secure in my 
> sunroom which is where I leave them during cycling season but the stands I 
> have now are not at all secure, either too loose or too tight, I can adjust 
> but they seem to not be good for either 42mm or 48mm tires. These use the 
> front tire. 
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Thu, Sep 24, 2020 at 1:59 PM David <23writ...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
> Hi Joel
> Are you talking a work stand or display stand. I have a couple of Nitto 
> display stands that are quite nice but designed for 120 or 126 rear hubs so a 
> bit of a wrestle to install. I also picked up a couple of Minoura stands that 
> are newer so more readily fit modern bikes. More convenient but certainly a 
> trade off on aesthetics. 
> 
> David
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 24, 2020, at 1:36 PM, Joel > > wrote:
>> 
>> Cross posted on Bob.  
>> 
>> I have the very old stands that Rivendell sold years ago, not very stable.  
>> I’d like either 1 double or 2 single bike holders, floor style to keep my 
>> bikes safe. Recommendations appreciated.  I’ve seen a few on eBay and Amazon 
>> but thought it wise to check here before buying.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Weird sideways tilt on a brooks professional...any guesses?

[James Valiensi]

HI,
Well used Brooks Saddles are never symmetrical and perfectly flat across the 
top.

> On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> 
> I think you're right about improper saddle height, which is leading to the 
> exaggerated tilt to the leather (I don't think it's the rails) and his numb 
> foot. I have a slightly shorter left leg and my saddles get a lesser version 
> of this tilt as well; what I think is happening is your dad is stretching too 
> far to get his right foot on the pedal which is causing both problems. 
> On Friday, September 18, 2020 at 10:55:18 AM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:
> So I was installing wider tires on my dad's Rambouillet and I noticed his 
> saddle had a really wonky sideways tilt to it. And then I remembered him 
> telling me on multiple occasions that one foot would always go numb on him 
> after a few miles, but I always marked it up to improper saddle height. That 
> is until now. I'm thinking this is what's causing it. Below's a photo of what 
> I'm seeing: 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks worse in real life. Has anyone experienced this? 
> Most of the bike's life is spent hanging up as you see below, which does put 
> pressure on the tension bolt of the saddle but is it enough to really bend 
> the rails that much? 
> 
> 
> 
> Really just interested in any ideas or if this isn't the first time someone 
> has seen this, maybe his rump is also just a little crooked! 
> 
> Cheers, 
> Andrew
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Paul's Purple Brakes

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
$266

Thx!

> On Sep 17, 2020, at 3:27 PM, ribz  wrote:
> 
> how much for the whole package? thanks
> 
> On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 11:15:07 PM UTC-4 James Valiensi wrote:
> Hi,
> I have a set of Paul’s touring Canti’s and Canti Levers. Selling separately.
> They were mounted one time. That is all it took for me to decide I like the 
> linear pull brakes better.
> Like new, the pads are new.
> Pair of Levers $129 shipped to USA
> Cantilever Brakes 
> 
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Re: [RBW] shimmy 71.5 head angle

[James Valiensi]

Your down tube isn’t stiff enough.

> On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:54 AM, Sam Perez  wrote:
> 
> why does my front loaded bike shimmy at speeds when I let go of the handle 
> bar head angle is 71.5. any thoughts?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Shimano XT RD-M772-GS rear derailleur

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have several Shimano RD’s. At least one is a MTB version. 

> On Aug 29, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Jan O.  wrote:
> 
> Still looking. Please let me know if you might have one you'd like to sell. 
> Thank you.
> 
> Jan
> San Francisco, CA
> 
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Re: [RBW] Joe's Custom

[James Valiensi]

That is a nice bike. Looks weird but wonderful! 

> On Aug 13, 2020, at 4:24 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> Let's try that again. 
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WLqTM6tYGtkHsB4V6
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: CL outting: Bombadil

[James Valiensi]

Love the colors! Best blues ever.
What stem is that?

> On Aug 6, 2020, at 2:27 PM, Jim M.  wrote:
> 
> On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:29:45 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
> Yes it's one of the raw finish frames Riv did for a bit before customers 
> freaked out over the rust forming under the clearcoat. I'm not a 
> freaker-outer, I dig it!
> 
> I dug it too until I realized that the rust under the clearcoat would 
> eventually become a hole in the steel. So D painted it blue:
> <49681704486_d09c0a8e8f_o.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> jim m
> wc, ca
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hot Waxing Chains

[James Valiensi]

This thread title sounds like a name for a topless bar…
Use oil on your chain. Chain-L will last 10K miles.

> On Jul 20, 2020, at 2:39 PM, Lyman Labry  wrote:
> 
> This is interesting thread.  My new riv bike received May 5th must have some 
> type of wax treatment on it.  I’ve ridden it daily and drivetrain still looks 
> clean. Do you know who riv folks use on their bikes?  Also, wondering what 
> they clean drivetrain with before treating.  Thanks!
> 
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 3:42 PM Michael Hechmer  > wrote:
> So.  To come back to this.  I ordered a bottle of Nix Frix Shun NFX, and have 
> been using it on my two bikes, my wife's bike and our tandem this summer.  
> The results have been excellent.  I don't know how much is this particular 
> lube or is application method, including wiping the outside  chain after 
> every ride; but I'm sold.  We ride predominantly on dirt roads and gravel 
> bike paths and my chains have remained clean and quiet since late May.  
> Actually, I found after three or four rides I really didn't need to wipe the 
> chain.  A big thank you to the people who recommended it.
> 
> Michael
> 
> On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 7:18:22 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> Greetings, one and all.  It has been a long time, at least a few years, since 
> my last post and I am just assuming my membership is still active.
> 
> At 75+, I still ride regularly, although not the distances I used to.  I live 
> in a small town in far northern VT, which has mostly dirt roads. I just ride; 
> I don't desire new stuff nor do anything heroic worth writing about.  I have 
> a Ramboulliet, a Trek 620, An early Saluki (my goto ride), and a custom 
> Bilenky touring tandem.  My wife rides a Betty Foy and my daughter a Cheviot. 
>   All but the Trek have fenders but that's still a lot of chains out on dirty 
> roads and a lot of messy time cleaning them.
> 
> Can you teach an old dog new tricks?  Well maybe.   I clean the chains, rings 
> and cogs with mineral spirits and citrosol.  I use a standard oil lube and 
> wipe them down as best I can.  The process of wiping down the chains 
> inevitably contaminates the rings and cogs with oil and the first ride bleeds 
> oil from the inside to the outside of the chain.  The oil collects dirt, 
> which wears down rings and cogs.  (I just ordered three new rings today, so 
> I'm focused).  Every time I go through this process of cleaning 9 chains, I 
> watch a youtube video on chain waxing but get put off by the initial effort 
> and purchase of a crock pot, ultrasonic cleaner, etc; and wonder if it would 
> really improve this process ; keep the chain cleaner and reduce wear?
> 
> Your experience, appreciated.
> 
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Things I Regret: Beausage on Vacation

[James Valiensi]

I like watching my mountain bikes get marks due to wear. But hated to see them 
get bang up because of mishandling them. Grind a layer of paint off the chain 
stays from a muddy ride - cool. Drop the bike for no reason and band up a grip 
- not cool.

> On Jul 13, 2020, at 4:34 PM, Scott McLain  wrote:
> 
> I bought Dave's old root beer AHH.  It came to me with a lot of beausage, but 
> no dents.  I bought it assuming I would get it repainted.  I haven't done it. 
>  It takes a lot of pressure off that it has lots of beausage.  The principal 
> of beausage has changed my life.  I did find some clear protectant to make 
> sure my bike didn't rust where the paint is missing. 
> 
> My kids all know about beausage now.  I rarely buy something that I would not 
> be able to handle it being dinged.  
> 
> Except for my Martin HD-28.  That stays in the case.
> 
> Scott
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 3:08:50 PM UTC-6, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
> Every year I point the van north and drive from Vegas to small town North 
> Dakota, and the lakes country of Minnesota. And every year I drag 3-4 bikes 
> along with us on a Saris rack. I’ve gone through several different bikes in 
> the past several years (the kids are growing, I switched to That Clem Life, 
> etc) so I’ve never found an exact formula to make the bikes fit perfectly. 
> This year I hauled my new ln 52 cm Clementine (2019 geo), the old 
> 1st gen 52 cm blue Clem H, #theClemRider’s  little 45 cm 2018 Clem H, and 
> Baby Bear’s 24 inch Specialized Hot Rock.
> 
> I never regret bringing my bikes, but I do admit I lament that they come back 
> to Vegas in poorer condition than when they left. We always get caught in a 
> rainstorm at some point, and usually more than once. After that I always 
> notice creaking where there hadn’t been, rust on the heads of bolts or inside 
> the braze-ons. I usually have new scuffs from the bikes knocking together on 
> the rack, dirt and grit where I hadn’t had it before. One year I drove to a 
> shooting range on 20 miles’ worth of gravel roads and the bikes were 
> completely trashed at a level you can’t fathom. The Betty Foy (now sold) had 
> a permanent ugly mark on the top tube where the arm bar of the rack had 
> mashed the cable into the paint.
> 
> You would think I would learn and get this dialed in but I never really do. 
> This year was really something - when was the last time you tried to get 3 
> Rivendells with Bosco bars on a rack? Boscos don’t play nicely. Three of 4 of 
> the bikes had baskets, and all 4 had racks. Yeah, nightmare.
> 
> So, this vacation I have discovered new ways to damage my bikes. I’ll provide 
> the photos and explanations in the next post...
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] XO-1 or Roadini

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
The Roadini. It is new and better made. X0-1 is more of a collectors item and 
the concept is more valuable than the execution. 

> On Jul 11, 2020, at 2:48 PM, Zack Medow  wrote:
> 
> RBW Owners Bunch I need your help!
> 
> I'm looking to venture into the world of my first Rivendell/Bridgestone. 
> 
> I'm at an impasse right now. I'm thinking of putting in an order for a 
> Roadini and set it up with the new Shikoro 38mm tires Riv is carrying. But 
> there's also a mint condition XO-1 right now on eBay in my size. 
> 
> I'm going to be using this bike for road and city riding, maybe some very 
> light grav grav. I have a Jones for a trail bike, so that's not really a 
> concern. My goal is to find a supple steel bike that fits a wider tire 
> without resorting to a disc break and the stiff fork that comes with it. 
> 
> Which one would you go for?? Is this a silly comparison?? 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I’ve built and repaired many steel frames. 
I wouldn’t be concerned about the frame. It will not suddenly fail. The down 
tube may not have been perfectly straight to begin with. Generally, when down 
tubes fail from a head on crash, they buckle right below the lug. That tiny 
amount of distortion is nothing to worry about. 
The fork bend looks mild. I’b bend it back straight and ride away. Clamp it 
down to a very heavy bench and use a piece of pipe over the steerer tube to 
tweak it back to straight. 

One of the best properties of steel that makes it ideal for bicycle frames is 
its durability. It can be bent many times and will not fail. Think of your fork 
blades - before they were round tubes, they where flat sheet, then rolled in to 
tubes and then swedged to a taper and then bent to a curve. They will bend 
back, no problem. I just fixed a fork that was bent severely to the side 
because the bike fell off a carrier. The owner was freaking out. He thought the 
fork was junk, yet 20-minutes later he happily road away on the same fork. 

Your bike is not dead. 

If you fly me to Oz, I’ll fix it no cost!

James Valiensi


> On Jun 30, 2020, at 9:14 PM, Robert Tilley  wrote:
> 
> I think I'd try riding it with a replacement fork. I wouldn't worry about 
> catastrophic frame failure since it looks like it would give plenty warning 
> before anything happened. A frame alignment would likely be necessary.
> 
> I do wonder if the headset would work without binding. I also wonder what the 
> damage would have been like without the additional top tube. Better or worse?
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to post pictures!
> 
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device
> From: bren...@areyoualert.com <mailto:bren...@areyoualert.com>
> Sent: June 30, 2020 8:18 PM
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> <mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com>
> Reply-to: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
> <mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com>
> Subject: [RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.
> 
> Thanks so much for everyones kind responses. It was really hard to take clear 
> pictures. I do not like take photos and try not to do it too much.
> I hope these work;
> headtube variance:
> 
> Doesn't look much in the picture but the bend in the middle was actually 
> enough to lift the headbadge loose. seemed to have fulcrumed a bend around 
> the second TT.
> Downtube bend was lower in the tube and a lot longer than I was looking for 
> so my initial inspection missed it:
> 
> Yes that is an old bent Homer fork from an accident in 2013, its steerer was 
> not distorted so was a test bed for headset alignment,
> Headset misalignment is 0.45mm according to my feeler gauge:
> 
> And finally you can see that the fork has bent where the steerer enters the 
> lug and it actually seems the crown lug has twisted slightly also. 
> Frustratingly the fork blades seem almost perfectly straight.
> 
> 
> I will look into the Eastern States options as far as frame repair is 
> concerned but at this point I might just try to get a new fork from Riv and 
> ride it as is. The frame isn't twisted at all and the double top tube gives 
> me confidence that if the downtube does fail it wont be catastrophic. The 
> chamfer on the FSA headset cups/bearings seem to absorb the misalignment and 
> function very smoothly. I suspect an old loose ball headset would not 
> function at all.
> 
> Would probably had grief purchased an orange 57cm if they had still been 
> available...I do love orange.
> On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 at 17:23:00 UTC+8 brendonoid wrote:
> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing that 
> I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this will 
> help others as a warning or something... ?
> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that did 
> not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common sense 
> fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an overnighter 
> on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure inbetween some 
> bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the next town as I 
> crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken branches... doing 
> ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a stop. Just a firm 
> enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make me have to put my 
> feet down suddenly.
> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
> "No worries! 

Re: [RBW] 650b new Rivendell models (to me)

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
Standover clearance is really over rated. I find that I never stand over my 
bike with both feet on the ground and the bike frame perpendicular to the 
ground. At stops, my right foot is on the peddle and the bike is leaning to 
towards the left. So this adds clearance. I start off by leaning the bike 
towards my left side and swinging my right leg over, and clipping in the right 
pedal. When a start to move, I stand on the right pedal and lift myself on to 
the saddle. So, never is top tube clearance an issue. I’ve ridden bikes that 
had top tubes much higher than my crotch and it was not a problem. 
That said, you should be able to straddle your bike with both feet on the 
ground. But even if the top tube is touching you slightly, you be okay.
If you like to ride upright, then bigger frames are a plus, as long as the top 
tube isn’t too long.
I’ve got a 55cm Rivendell custom and a 51 Joe A. Both fit perfectly. I could 
ride one size smaller or larger on the J.A. But the custom is perfect and 
bigger or smaller would not be acceptable. That has more to do with the head 
tube length and bottom-bracket drop than any other reason. 

Best regards,

> On Jun 28, 2020, at 7:10 AM, Joel Stern  wrote:
> 
> 
> I was really confused at first at the A Homer Hilson, Appaloosa and the new 
> Atlantis. The sizing is very different than of old, like for my Bleriot where 
> I ride a 55cm bike, looks like on the Hilson and Appaloosa I would take a 
> 51cm and on the new Atlantis a 50. So my question for those that follow this 
> do any of these have a more relaxed geometry or a more comfortable ride than 
> my Bleriot which is already comfortable? What can anyone tell me about the 
> sizing changes? When Grant measured me years ago I believe he had my PBH to 
> 83 or a bit more, while when I had help from my wife today it was on first 
> measurement 80.645 and on second at 81.28 and a third at 82.5. Now when Grant 
> measure me I thought I would pass out (well not really but it was a bit 
> drastic) and the bike had no extra standover for me. The Bleriot has a bit of 
> standover so I have no doubt that I could probably go down a bit. It also 
> looks like the TT have gotten even longer on these bikes, not maybe the added 
> degree of slope makes that a non issue and maybe there is something there 
> with position of the rider on these. 
> Do the longer chain stays contribute to more comfort? 
> I also ride upright.
> 
> So I guess I am confused.
> 
> Any input is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks, Joel
> 
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Re: [RBW] Painted Appaloosa - Almost Like a New Bike Day!

[James Valiensi]

Orange is the fastest color...

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Litho  wrote:
> 
> I just picked up my freshly painted Appaloosa from Rick at D Cycles 
> yesterday and spent the evening getting it all back together.  Rick did a 
> fantastic job!  It's s damn pretty.  I've wanted an orange bike for going 
> on 30 years, but every time I go to purchase an orange one, something else 
> presents itself.  This time, I took matters into my own hands and had my 
> lovely Appaloosa converted to the color of my dreams.  I bought this bike the 
> day I went to Riv intent on purchasing an orange Hillborne.  After talking to 
> Vince about the riding I was planning on doing, he suggested I take the 
> Appaloosa for a spin.  He was right and I opted for the right bike over the 
> right color.   
> 
> The orange is little brighter than the recent orange Appaloosa (having seen 
> it in person) and is exactly what I've wanted.  I think I'm going to swap out 
> the brown saddle for the black one on my Atlantis.  I took it out for a spin 
> around the Napa Valley this morning and thought I'd share some pictures. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: 66 or 68cm Quickbeam frame set

[James Valiensi]

The photos of the green bike frame indicate  poorly made brazed joints. The 
brazing filler did not full penetrate the bottom bracket shell. 

> On Apr 13, 2020, at 5:24 PM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
> wrote:
> 
> At least it didn't rust away on a hook, on to Valhalla!
> -Kai
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:57:42 PM UTC-4, Birdman wrote:
>> I'm curious too, Kai.
>> Grisly pictures as requested...
>> Isaac
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 7:20:57 AM UTC-7, Rob Kristoff wrote:Hi Kai,
>> I'm confused why a cracked bb shell on a qb would be a goner? Did they go 
>> away from lugs in models I havent seen? Seems like a pretty simple lugged 
>> fix if one could get a replacement bb lug. 
>> The qb is a decent quality frame isnt it? Seems worth the investment. 
>> (unless OP can find replacement frame for le$$)
>> Just curious.
>> Rob
>> Danvers, MA
> 
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> <20180118_002003.jpg><20180117_234037.jpg><20180118_002033.jpg>

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Re: [RBW] WTB: 66 or 68cm Quickbeam frame set

[James Valiensi]

HI,
I’ve built frames and replaced tubes. Replacement of the BB shell is not 
trivial. I’m not sure it can be done with replacing the down-tube, seat tube 
and chain stays too.
If that was mine, I’d try brazing the cack or TIG welding it first. I’ve seen 
this approach last years. 

It would be labor to replace the BB than to build a new frame.

Best regards,

> On Apr 13, 2020, at 1:57 PM, Birdman  wrote:
> 
> I'm curious too, Kai.
> Grisly pictures as requested...
> Isaac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 7:20:57 AM UTC-7, Rob Kristoff wrote:
> Hi Kai,
> I'm confused why a cracked bb shell on a qb would be a goner? Did they go 
> away from lugs in models I havent seen? Seems like a pretty simple lugged fix 
> if one could get a replacement bb lug.
> The qb is a decent quality frame isnt it? Seems worth the investment. (unless 
> OP can find replacement frame for le$$)
> 
> Just curious.
> Rob
> Danvers, MA
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Who needs a custom?

[James Valiensi]

It is an old joke. I have too many bikes and don’t want to get rid of any of 
them. 
I have my Rivendell Custom, which my wife got for me as a wedding gift.
I have my Colnago from 1986, which was repainted by JB in a color my wife 
picked.
There is my Joe A, which is too pleasant to dump. I have a Yeti SB66 which is 
too expensive to replace and I like it. 
I have a Brompton - how could you dump such a cute bike?
There is a Pedersen that will never go away.
Then there are the frames and bikes from my frame building days. I got to keep 
them, no one else wants them.

Sigh… 

> On Mar 30, 2020, at 2:40 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> To be honest, James, I'm getting closer to that minimalist ideal. I've bought 
> and sold a ton of bikes (they all said WE KNOW, JOE!) and often had four or 
> five around at one time. Even considering at least one was usually a folder 
> packed down into nothing in a closet, that's still a lot of bikes for one 
> fellow to own and store. I'm not quite down to one yet, but I could see the 
> custom getting me there..especially if my hands start giving up on the other 
> bikes. I'm not One Bike Joe yet, but I think that day looms. 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Who needs a custom?

[James Valiensi]

What would you do if you could only have one bicycle?

I’d just kill myself...

> On Mar 30, 2020, at 1:26 PM, ted  wrote:
> 
> True, dat 
> 
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Re: [RBW] What Fenders Are These?

[James Valiensi]

Wow- that is the best representation of Honjo fenders ever!
I too wanted the same for my JA.

> On Mar 27, 2020, at 2:58 PM, maxcr  wrote:
> 
> Maybe sim works? https://www.sim.works/collections/fenders-simworks-by-honjo
> 
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Re: [RBW] All Rounder Stripped Down

[James Valiensi]

That bike is beautiful, but single speed is the worst of both worlds (fixed and 
geared).
Cheers!

> On Feb 15, 2020, at 9:41 AM, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA 
>  wrote:
> 
> As Spring approaches, I wanted to go shiftless and convert my 2001 CG All 
> Rounder to a single speed. All of my riding these days is on the local rail 
> trail, so keeping things simple, quiet and uncluttered was my goal. Had a set 
> of Bosco Bullmoose I swapped for the Albatross bars I had on it. Dropped in a 
> Paul Melvin sourced from the bunch recently. Not finished yet, but it's 
> rolling. Very comfortable upright position. Will probably go rackless in it's 
> final form, and need to get a pair of those lock-on-cog-thingies Riv sells to 
> make the cassette into a single-cog version. Once I dial in the gearing I'll 
> make a few final tweaks. I think this will be a fun ride. 
> 
> May I present: El Oneder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Can we talk about long wheelbases?

[James Valiensi]

For the Engineer - the bike frame is a simple truss - one can calculate the 
defection. 
But don’t waste you time over thinking a Rivendell - just ride one and you’ll 
be sold.

> On Jan 30, 2020, at 5:21 PM, S  wrote:
> 
> From an engineering perspective, I worry about excessive flex with super long 
> chain stays. I don't believe super short stays deliver significantly better 
> acceleration, but I wonder if super long stays might rob energy from the 
> drive train, "flubbing out" your pedal strokes. Also, some of the highest 
> stresses in a frame are in the BB area, specifically in the area where the 
> right chainstay enters the BB. By lengthening the stay, you are in effect 
> creating a longer lever and potentially increasing the stress, more so over 
> rough ground where the rider is bouncing up and down on the bike.   
> 
> On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:43:56 PM UTC-8, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
> I have wanted to start this thread for weeks. Fearing controversy, not 
> desiring to start fights, and worried that staff at Riv will read this, I 
> never mustered up the guts. But the long wheelbase bike topic has come up in 
> several threads now, and maybe we should just have the discussion. People are 
> wanting to buy these bikes, and since most don’t live near a dealer, we need 
> to help each other out regarding bike fit. 
> 
> I got a new Clem L (unless you have been living under a ROCK you know this 
> since it’s all I talk about. Go ahead, I dare you to ask me about the color 
> of paint that it has. ) and it’s nothing like the other Clems I’ve known and 
> loved. Why? Because it has an even longer wheelbase than than its 
> long-wheelbase predecessors. 
> 
> Recently, Rivendell pointed us to an Ask Me Anything with Grant on Reddit. It 
> was a wall of text and I read it. Folks asked their most pressing questions 
> and Grant graciously answered them. Over and over and over again long 
> wheelbase bikes were brought up, and Grant offered his opinion. Longer bikes 
> are more stable, Cadillac-like, comfortable, etc. The opposite of twitchy, 
> short-wheelbase bikes. We know this and most of us will accept it. 
> 
> BUT...what I am dying to know is this: how long can you go before it is no 
> longer an improvement? 
> 
> Example: My 52 Clementine was much more comfortable than my 55 Betty Foy. 
> Like it was tailor-made for me alone. The Betz was totally fine, no knocks 
> against it, but the Clementine was just more plush. So, I agree with Grant - 
> longer was better. 
> 
> The problem came with my Clem L, the 2019 version that had had its geometry 
> changed. I didn’t know I was getting a different bike. I was surprised when I 
> had to buy (several) different stems and a new long wheelbase bar for my 
> Saris rack. It’s been a lot of adjustment, and I’ve been frustrated. If I 
> understand correctly, several Rivendell models have been lengthened as of 
> late. 
> 
> The burning question I have: Can anyone tell us if the new longer bikes are 
> better or worse than the previous (also long) versions? We know the theory, 
> what of the reality? I’m thinking especially of the Clems, as they were 
> already SO long. But I think Atlantis people will also have something to 
> say... 
> 
> I wanted to have this discussion because I genuinely want to know how the 
> newest long bikes are working out for folks. But I also want to let others 
> know that there are some things to consider if you get one of these new 
> iterations. Will a 52 Clem fit on public transport? I think no. Will it fit 
> on your vehicle hitch bike rack? Mine won’t. Will it be difficult for you to 
> park your long bike in a public rack? Can you back your bike out of your 
> garage/shed easily at this new length? What if you are right between sizes? 
> Rivendell would have you go up, I’m not sure I wouldn’t have done better on 
> the next size down. 
> 
> Of course we can have this discussion and keep it kind, can’t we, Friends. It 
> would be so horrible if Rivendell staff read this and saw a lot of 
> inflammatory remarks. I think we’re allowed to have a decent and informative 
> chat, and undoubtedly some people will find it helpful. Plus, maybe Rivendell 
> will find it useful. If the extra long bikes aren’t meeting expectations, 
> maybe there will be changes to future bikes. 
> 
> I did put 9 miles riding up a mountain with groceries in my front basket on 
> the new Clem L, so I’m working our relationship! 
> Leah 
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Legolas Mystique: If Riv offered a limited time only, prepaid Legolas run, would you buy one?

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
Here is what I know.
Rivendell was asked to stop using Tolkien names after the movies came out. The 
lawyers agreed that the name Rivendell could remain and they could use up the 
remainder of the Legolas stickers, After that no more LOR references are 
allowed. So no more Legolas will be made. Grant doesn’t have a shortage of 
interesting and cool names for bikes anyways. Who names a bike Joe Appaloosa or 
Sam Hilborne???

Rivendell will make you a custom frame, but custom to a point. A friend of mine 
wanted a custom Rivendell, he loved everything about them except the sloping 
top tube. He wanted it dead flat (Custom road frames have a mild up-slope of 
3-deg or so). They refused the order. 
Try and get disk brakes or a 1-1/8” head tube on a Rivendell custom, I doubt it 
will happen. 

I have a few Rivendell’s - A custom road bike, a Joe Appaloosa and a 
Clementine. I’ve had a Heron many years ago, but sold it. They are all great 
fun.  I only sell bikes because of space, otherwise I would have 50 by now.

> On Jan 24, 2020, at 10:16 AM, Braxton Colagross  
> wrote:
> 
> You can probably order nearly anything you want and I'm sure Rivendell would 
> be happy to talk about specifics. Maybe some of the old production tubes no 
> longer exist so it wouldn't be *exactly* the same thing but the overall 
> design is theirs. A one-off is going to be more expensive than a stock 
> production frame made as part of a medium size order ten years ago. But if 
> cost is less important than getting exactly what you want... 
> 
> On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 3:58:54 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
> I agree, Roberta. This is still confusing because I was told last year by a 
> Riv employee that I could no longer order a Hunq. So, a definitive list of 
> specific frames would help!
> Tom
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Advice Needed: Tires

[James Valiensi]

HI,
I use Schwalbe’s on most of my bikes. The G-Ones are my favorite tires. I use 
them in the road version and gravel versions. I have them from 25mm to 50mm.
The tires seems heavy duty but ride as good as the condom-thin tires. I feel 
very secure on the Schwalbe’s and get a great fast ride. 

> On Jan 14, 2020, at 6:25 AM, Steve Cole  wrote:
> 
> I want to replace the tires I currently am running on a bike I use only about 
> a quarter of the time.  The bike is a 1990s era Bianchi Axis.  It is 
> currently set up with 700c x 37 Schwalbe Marathons (the original).  I want to 
> go a size larger which I believe the bike will accommodate.  I also want a 
> suppler tire.  I ride mostly in the city, on paved country roads and 
> occasionally on fairly smooth dirt roads.  I've considered Rene Herse Barlow 
> Pass, Continental Contact Speed or Schwalbe G-One Speed.  I'm interest in any 
> views you have on these tires or others you would strongly recommend.  Many 
> thanks.
> 
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, VA 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[James Valiensi]

Yup that’s it.

> On Jan 8, 2020, at 3:06 PM, Chris L  wrote:
> 
> Here is the photo.  Sounds like your bike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, January 8, 2020 at 11:15:00 AM UTC-6, James Valiensi wrote:
> Hi,
> I had my configured with the Albatross bars (steel version) twice over the 
> years. The one you described sounds like something I did about 8-years ago. I 
> posted the photo on Flickr. I can no longer access my Flickr account so I 
> cannot help find it. 
> 
> The past 3-years I had another set of Albatross bars (aluminum version) with 
> a tall Nitto stem and 1 x 10 drive train. I recently decided to put it back 
> the way I intended when I got the bike in 2003.  One change is no front rack. 
> This frame has horrible steering geometry and any load on the front makes it 
> worse. I'm putting a Velo Orange lightweight rear rack and a small bag on the 
> back. The rack will tie into the rear fender.
> 
> My paint color was not a stock Rivendell color at the time. I ask Joe Bell to 
> call me when he got the frame and then we decided on the color. Rivendell was 
> quite surprised when the frame came back to them in a color different than 
> the one listed on the order form. I gave them more money and they were good.
> 
> I have the original Chris King silver, no branding headset. It was on for ten 
> years and still is perfect. I should put it back on. 
> 
> On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 7:52:43 PM UTC-8, Chris L wrote:
> Is there a photo out there of this bike with albatross bars and a Sugino 
> wide-low crankset?  The bike is leaning against a corner.  The size and color 
> look the same but this was before I discovered RBW so maybe that was a common 
> color.  The albatross photo was one of the first to spark my fascination with 
> Rivendell bikes. 
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, January 6, 2020 at 5:43:33 PM UTC-6, James Valiensi wrote:
> 
> 
> My 17-year old Custom Rivendell Road Bike. Only original parts on it are the 
> fenders, which I recently reinstalled after 15-years off. 
> 
> I love the Rene Herse crankset. It was the 1st time, in a long time that I 
> got to use my Campagnolo peanut butter wrench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I had my configured with the Albatross bars (steel version) twice over the 
years. The one you described sounds like something I did about 8-years ago. 
I posted the photo on Flickr. I can no longer access my Flickr account so I 
cannot help find it. 

The past 3-years I had another set of Albatross bars (aluminum version) 
with a tall Nitto stem and 1 x 10 drive train. I recently decided to put it 
back the way I intended when I got the bike in 2003.  One change is no 
front rack. This frame has horrible steering geometry and any load on the 
front makes it worse. I'm putting a Velo Orange lightweight rear rack and a 
small bag on the back. The rack will tie into the rear fender.

My paint color was not a stock Rivendell color at the time. I ask Joe Bell 
to call me when he got the frame and then we decided on the color. 
Rivendell was quite surprised when the frame came back to them in a color 
different than the one listed on the order form. I gave them more money and 
they were good.

I have the original Chris King silver, no branding headset. It was on for 
ten years and still is perfect. I should put it back on. 

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 7:52:43 PM UTC-8, Chris L wrote:
>
> Is there a photo out there of this bike with albatross bars and a Sugino 
> wide-low crankset?  The bike is leaning against a corner.  The size and 
> color look the same but this was before I discovered RBW so maybe that was 
> a common color.  The albatross photo was one of the first to spark my 
> fascination with Rivendell bikes. 
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 6, 2020 at 5:43:33 PM UTC-6, James Valiensi wrote:
>>
>> [image: IMG_1316.jpeg]
>>
>> My 17-year old Custom Rivendell Road Bike. Only original parts on it are 
>> the fenders, which I recently reinstalled after 15-years off. 
>>
>> I love the Rene Herse crankset. It was the 1st time, in a long time that 
>> I got to use my Campagnolo peanut butter wrench!
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 1/1/20 Blahg

[James Valiensi]

Oh Boy-
I hate friction shifting with modern cogs, ie the ones designed for index 
shifting. I tried to use friction with these cogs and got nothing but ghost 
shifts when I stood up or pedaled hard. 
Friction is best with an old Suntour six speed freewheels.

I like vinyl and film. But I jammed my Nikon FE yesterday trying to load 
film in it. It's been a few years since I used film and I forgot how to 
load the damn thing. 

My Joe A. is an awesome bike. It has the nicest ride. But the chain stays 
are so long. When I wash it, I feel like I'm working in a shipyard. I've 
been tempted to shorten the stays (cut the back of the bike frame off and 
put it together better. A bike shouldn't have chain stays so long that you 
need to buy two chains to get enough length for it. 

Hydraulic disk brakes work great and cantilevers will always suck. 

I've also though how cool my Joe A would be with disk brakes. 

I run many bikes with a 1 x 11 drive train I don't miss the front 
derailleur. In fact I re-installed one on my Riv custom and it took three 
different ones and an hour of adjusting to get it to work (small chainrings 
and loads of BB drop on that frame) 

I've been a Rivendell fan & customer since day one. But sometimes I think 
they are too rigid in their bike philosophy. 

On Thursday, January 2, 2020 at 11:44:00 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> As usual, fun, miscellaneous, non-organized content. Much on slant 
> parallels and indexing and the power of Shimano and the smallness of 
> SunTour. But, perhaps this is worth a breath: sure, everyone nowadays wants 
> 13 in back and trouble-free electric, indexed shifting. BUT! I would not be 
> surprised if there is a market "out there" for honorable consumers who 
> *like* to develop the skills required to do things for themselves. After 
> all, there was the fixie craze during the 10 speed indexing period, and -- 
> I am no expert on current culture, but is there not a trend toward 
> self-reliance, authenticity (not sure how to define this, but at least, 
> don't buy what you can't do), simplicity, and durability? The sorts of 
> people who use knives instead of processors, and knead bread dough instead 
> of using bread makers? (Both for me, tho' I'm no gourmet chef.)
>
> The same from another angle: every time you gain with a machine that makes 
> it easier for you to do something, and for neophytes to get into the 
> action, you also *pari passu* lose skill and expertise, which itself is 
> very often a large part of the pleasure and self-affirmation of practicing 
> some craft, be it only shifting a derailleur system.
>
> Now, if you perfect -- as Rivendell's Silvers do --"do-it-yourself manual 
> shifting, might there not be a small but sustainable market for 
> well-meaning, earnest, honest people who'd like to aquire these minimal 
> self-sufficient skills with tools perfected for the purpose?
>
> It seems to me that Rivendell ought to actively market to this audience; 
> not the theme, "We're diehard holdouts for old-fashioned skills," but "You 
> want the pleasure and self respect of learning how to do things for 
> yourself; we can equip you with tools perfected for this" -- whether 
> shifters, axes, bags, clothing, what have you. IOW, not "we're holdouts" 
> but "you don't want to be subordinate to the machine; we are on your side 
> with the right stuff."
>
> Those new Silver shifters might well be a design that entices me away from 
> beloved SunTour barcons.I didn't like the older, long-levered Silver bar 
> end shifters, but the new ones may make me change my mind.
>
> Casting back to the last blahg, with Archie Bunker: I never watched All in 
> the Family until just a week or so ago when I looked it up. I have to say 
> that, from the very few episodes I fast forwarded through, it was well 
> done, and I usually hate TV. That is, it portrayed a bigot well as a bigot 
> in a humorous way.
>
> What I have watched what may be BBC's antecedent to the show which, as an 
> Anglophile, I like quite a bit. As usual, as with anything literary or 
> dramatic, the Brits just do it better.
>
> Grant, this one's for you:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0-leRNxhmg
>
>
> *Today when you're picking out baby and toddler toys, the groovy thing to 
> look for is a toy that requires the human to do 90+ percent of the work. A 
> book versus an audio book or video game, Tinker Toys versus online building 
> things or whatever. Adult toys used to be that way, but bicycles, more than 
> most, have eliminated the need to make mechanisms perform. All riders have 
> to do it push to the click, or share the task with a motor. It's no skin 
> off anybody's nose, who even cares?, except that I think everybody should 
> have at least one bike that is more manual than automatic. It's not a 
> matter of trying to make simple things harder; it's more like not seeking 
> out the easiest, most brainless way to perform a function that formerly 
> required a little 

[RBW] Re: BICYCLE 'COCKPIT'

[James Valiensi]

Oh one thing I forgot in my post - 
My frustration lies not with the Rivendell folks but the marketing side of 
the bicycle world. So please don't be offended and write sentences that 
destroy the English language.
I'm pretty sure I cannot handle this anymore - I shall delete all my 
bicycle bookmarks, burn all my bike magazines & books and put my bicycles 
in the recycling bin.

I'm out -

On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 4:02:09 PM UTC-7, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> GAWD This aggravates me to no end - referring to a bicycle handle bar as a 
> "cockpit". Airplanes have cockpits, bicycles have handlebars for crap's 
> sake!!!
>

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[RBW] Re: BICYCLE 'COCKPIT'

[James Valiensi]

Bicycles been around a lot longer than airplanes, but now they have 
cockpits?

If you climb into a Pitts Special you are in a cockpit and if you get into 
an F-1 race car you are in a cockpit. If you ride a bike you are not in a 
cockpit, you are on a bike. Ask a Hells Angel what he has in his Harley's 
cockpit...

The way I see it - referring to a bicycle handlebar and associated 
components to a cockpit is a way to try to elevate the bicycle to more than 
it is. Which is sad because the beauty of bicycles has been the simplicity 
of the form. The false elevation is equivalent to claiming a degree from a 
fake online college is equal to one from an accredited university. I don't 
buy into the need to repurpose the word 'cockpit' to best describe the 
bicycle controls - we have been successfully discussing this for longer 
than my life time without calling it a 'cockpit'.

BTW - the only bike that can reasonable fit definition of a cockpit are the 
land speed streamliners (where one actually climbs into the bike).

For me the battle is lost - The bike world has moved beyond me. 


On Friday, September 9, 2016 at 4:02:09 PM UTC-7, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> GAWD This aggravates me to no end - referring to a bicycle handle bar as a 
> "cockpit". Airplanes have cockpits, bicycles have handlebars for crap's 
> sake!!!
>

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[RBW] BICYCLE 'COCKPIT'

[James Valiensi]

GAWD This aggravates me to no end - referring to a bicycle handle bar as a 
"cockpit". Airplanes have cockpits, bicycles have handlebars for crap's 
sake!!!

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[RBW] Re: Cambrium C19

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I bought one for my wife and her Clem. She was not thrilled with it, she 
much preferred the stock saddle or a Brooks B.135. So I tried it and liked 
it. I use it on my Brompton with great success.
I also have the C17 on my Rivendell Custom and a C15 on my 29'er MTB.  
They are nice saddles.
Cheers!

On Saturday, September 3, 2016 at 5:45:24 PM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:
>
> Anyone ride one of these? The shorter, wider version in the Cambium line.
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] FS Merlin Titanium Bike - Asking $1,750 OBO

[James Valiensi]

Hi,




I know this is way off topic. But I'm a long time Rivendell rider and also 
love other bikes too. So maybe somebody is interested or has a friend that 
may be. 

47cm Center of BB to top of seat post x 55cm top tube. Dimensions are 
approximate (I measured w/ a metric tape measure) I think this was called a 
medium by Merlin. This bike would typically fit someone between 5'-6" and 
5'-8".

The original fork was replaced with a Columbus carbon fiber unit. The Chris 
King headset and spacers were add at the same time. The stem is an 10cm 
ExtraLight. These parts are like new and maybe have one or two short rides. 
The drive train is a mix of Campy Record and Athena 11sp. Athena Crank set 
and shifters, Record Derailleurs and a Chorus cassette (12-27). The brakes 
are Ciamillo's Zero G's. The wheels are Rolf's Vigor RS. Tires a Gravel 
Kings. Saddle is a Flite and the Seat Post is a Woodman. The bars are Zipp 
aluminum. The pedals are Dura Ace aluminum and the wheel skewers are light 
weigh gold anodized (KMC?)

The seat post is max'd out at 28" from BB to saddle. If yo need more, 
you'll need another post of bigger frame. 
The bike is pretty light. The build kit is much better than what it came 
with.
There is nothing wrong with the bicycle and the frame and parts are not 
damaged, but there may be a few cosmetic scratches on the shifters and 
derailleurs. It all works. 

My 70+ year old dad road it for a few years then gave it to me. I rebuilt 
it. I didn't like the Shimano it had and I figured it would be good to put 
a new carbon fork on it for safety. I took off the ugly stickers and 
cleaned the frame up.
I'm in Los Angeles - local pick up would be best, but I'll ship too.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Pauls Components Front Rack and Handle Bar Bag

[James Valiensi]

The Paul's rack has been sold. 
The handlebar bag is still available.

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 9:18:56 PM UTC-7, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have a Pauls front rack for sell. Its a little dirty from being in the 
> shed, but otherwise in great shape without damage. This thing was design to 
> carry a case of beer!
> $65 shipped to you via USPS 1st class (domestic only).
>
> Handle bar bag with Klitfix adapter. It is in nice shape and was used once 
> or twice and has been in a storage box for the past 10+ years. $45 shipped 
> to you via USPS Priority Post.
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F6V8vI2xSA0/V3Xu3uLZ9LI/AI8/6D9EispIZaIDLRRQKdJTHaTmOXp6YGx2wCLcB/s1600/IMG_1544.jpg>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dpWVxHjFsbk/V3Xu6lJ4q8I/AJA/GEtkinJ7zyoOn6TIX5BNfV_Bzny1shsJACLcB/s1600/IMG_1545.jpg>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fH8lmoXpYT4/V3Xu-QGjRrI/AJE/xYhBoBJ1HUg9On8S9m7PF0AdtDR_62M9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_1542.jpg>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7Qm7D_dP2cE/V3Xuzr9Q17I/AI4/zSK9M1dK9XUWMyEFjaDq61k8vtb2Z_dSgCLcB/s1600/IMG_1543.jpg>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Pauls Components Front Rack and Handle Bar Bag

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have a Pauls front rack for sell. Its a little dirty from being in the 
shed, but otherwise in great shape without damage. This thing was design to 
carry a case of beer!
$65 shipped to you via USPS 1st class (domestic only).

Handle bar bag with Klitfix adapter. It is in nice shape and was used once 
or twice and has been in a storage box for the past 10+ years. $45 shipped 
to you via USPS Priority Post.









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[RBW] Re: Any benefits to the longer CS's?

[James Valiensi]

In my experience long chain stays have two drawbacks: its harder to pull up 
over an obstacle  and the need to buy two chains because 114-links is not 
enough.
Short stays make the bike feel twitchy and ride rough.
Competition hill climbing motorcycles use really long swing arms, so how do 
short stays make a bicycle climb better? I think this is a typical bicycle 
thing where the laws of physics are ignored. 
On a bicycle, the most import upgrade you can make is to the motor and the 
most important feature is the paint color.

Cheers!

On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 3:12:12 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> More rivmodels headed that way.
>
> Cant think of any benefits other than stability, which rivs already have 
> plenty of, off top of my head.
> Was wondering what makes it worth the extra weight, 2 chains needed, and 
> less maneuverability due to longer bike length in garages, near bike racks, 
> BARTs, carrying through house, etc,
>

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[RBW] Long Chain Stays

[James Valiensi]

HI,
I've always found longer chain stays have many advantages and few draw 
backs. They give a smoother ride, make the bicycle less twitchy, allow for 
bigger tires and fenders. So when I got my Appaloosa I thought this has 
really long chain stays and will make a good bike for off road too. 


However, I found one disadvantage of the really long stays - it makes the 
front end hard to pull up to go over stuff. Like this bike is hard to ride 
over a curb. Anyone else notice that?

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[RBW] Re: FS. Nitto Bike Stand

[James Valiensi]

Hi Matt,
It is your's. Paypal is fine, my account name is below. Make sure I know 
where to ship.

valie...@mac.com

Thank you!

On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 12:09:59 PM UTC-7, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I'll take it if it is still available.
>
> Paypal?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt Beecher
> Oswego, IL
>
>

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[RBW] FS. Nitto Bike Stand

[James Valiensi]

Very Cool Nitto Bike Stand. Nitto hand brazing with their famous silver 
coating. Works good for display or storage, not so good for working on the 
bike.

$40 + shipping 

Shipping will be around $20 due the the size of the box needed. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Readers

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
My Paypal is valiensi *-at- *mac *-dot- *com
Thanks for the interest, I was not happy about trashing them!

James Valiensi

On Sunday, June 19, 2016 at 7:14:41 AM UTC-7, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
> I'll take em! PayPal?

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Readers

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have an incomplete set of Rivendell Readers, which includes up to issue 
forty and a few flyers. Counting backwards, the set includes:
40, 36-34, 32, 30, 27-15, 10-5. There are several duplicate issues too. 
I figure I can fit them into a flat rate box $15 and I want $20 to make it 
worth it to me to ship - total cost is $35 or $20 for local p/u.
Lots of good reading included. If no one wants them, then they go in the 
bin.

Thanks!

James Valiensi
Northridge, CA
(818) 585-1796

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[RBW] Rivendell Choco-Moose Bars FS

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I changed out my JA Choco-Moose bars for the Bullmoose bars when I received 
the bicycle. The shape is not for me. The bars are like new.
I'll need a big box to ship, so that is why the shipping cost is high.
$100 (net to me) + $20 shipping

James Valiensi
valie...@mac.com


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[RBW] Re: FS: Super Cool Bike Parts

[James Valiensi]

The shifters and XTR hub are gone.
Next week I will list Nitto Stems.
Let me know your needs I've got boxes of them.
Cheers!

On Sunday, April 17, 2016 at 6:34:24 AM UTC-7, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have the following parts for sell:
> 8-speed cassette
> Linear pull brake set
> Thumb shifters
> Thumb shifter mounts
> Two front hubs
> Rear cassette hub
> Bottom bracket
>
> Each piece is $20 + shipping. Buyer pays Paypal fees.
> Most stuff will fit into a small flat rate box which is about $7.
>
> I have a Flickr page for this:
>
> https://flic.kr/s/aHskyoGUvd
>

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[RBW] FS: Super Cool Bike Parts

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have the following parts for sell:
8-speed cassette
Linear pull brake set
Thumb shifters
Thumb shifter mounts
Two front hubs
Rear cassette hub
Bottom bracket

Each piece is $20 + shipping. Buyer pays Paypal fees.
Most stuff will fit into a small flat rate box which is about $7.

I have a Flickr page for this:

https://flic.kr/s/aHskyoGUvd

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[RBW] FS Joe Appaloosa Drive Train

[James Valiensi]

Some parts sold.
I still have:
Deore rear derailleur, $40
Shimano front derailleur, $25
Shimano 12-36 9-sp cassette, $35
Shimano 110mm bottom bracket, $20

All prices are less shipping. All parts are new and have been taken off a Joe 
Appaloosa I got.

Thanks

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[RBW] FS Joe Appaloosa Drive Train

[James Valiensi]

Brand New Take-off OEM Parts:
Crankset: $80
Shimano Bottom Bracket: $20
Chain: $20
Cassette, 9speed 12-36: $35
Shimano Rear Derailleur: $40
Shimano Front Derailleur: $25
Thumb Shifters: $25 
Brake Levers: $20

Shipping costs not included.

valie...@mac.com

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[RBW] FS Brook Swift Saddle

[James Valiensi]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JZIwRTqm3J4/VYWw4vOgwwI/AFE/Pav45XzZgjA/s1600/2W4A1868.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8ztRl85i7Eg/VYWw26aFtpI/AE8/t6314-9aTO4/s1600/2W4A1865.JPG
Steel rail saddle. It didn't suit me so I only used it a few times. It got 
dropped once and took a small chip (3/16 diameter) out of the leather. I 
coated the bottom with Brook Proofride and it left a white haze. I think 
the color is Honey
$120 includes USPS Priority Post to US locations.

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[RBW] FS Brooks B-72 Saddle

[James Valiensi]

Old saddle. Kinda soft, should be comfortable. 

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-urIEh9ZY4dI/VYW0iddLbLI/AFs/ETJeIdPtgQQ/s1600/2W4A1877.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kVcyKHdrJb0/VYW0j8b0WqI/AF0/N6F5dYYB8bc/s1600/2W4A1876.JPG
$60 includes Priority Post to your US location.

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[RBW] FS Berthoud Front Bag and Velo Orange Rack

[James Valiensi]

Small Black Berthoud front bag and front rack. I'm not sure the rack is 
bolt on ready, it may need modifications. The bag is like new. I never used 
it, but it is a bit dusty. It has two small pockets and a large flip-up 
main compartment. 

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HO0k1fwWvhQ/VYWzrWzWTFI/AFU/wyq_GUd6pKU/s1600/2W4A1871.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6N5qgmVi56Q/VYWzxwlkc5I/AFc/99ehkZbcwok/s1600/2W4A1872.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j3jBpvDt0HM/VYWz0T3lLUI/AFk/WMpO40dYVAA/s1600/2W4A1869.JPG
$215 - Priority Post to your US location.

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[RBW] FS Nitto Handlebars and Stem

[James Valiensi]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dmSD64D6hzU/VYW1tW7LShI/AGE/zVB8xvc4COU/s1600/2W4A1881.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6AKXwqSizvM/VYW1u8y3ffI/AGM/gFX-OUE4VFc/s1600/2W4A1879.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V-kkrgt8PsM/VYW1r8unlaI/AF8/Y21wT-SvQxE/s1600/2W4A1878.JPG
Nitto 12cm Pearl NJS stem with Steel Rivendell/Nitto Handlebar. Cork grips. 
I don't think the bars and stem in this exact configuration are available 
anymore. The stem appears like new. The handle bars have minor marks from 
the brake levers. cork grips are new and clean, but glued on solid.
$200 - shipped to you via USPS Priority Post

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[RBW] Best chain lube - ever

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
For a long lasting lube that makes your drive train quieter try bar and chain 
oil. It is for chainsaws and won't fly off the chain. You can get a quart for 
under $10 and it will probably last you a 100,000 miles.

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [RBW] Best chain lube - ever

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I've used it for 1000's of miles and I know others that swear by it. I put a 
drop on each link and spin the cranks a while, and then wipe off the excess. No 
build up of gunk.

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 14, 2014, at 8:17 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Hmmm, I have bar and chain lube. stuff is crazy thick, you sure without the 
 heat of the saw it wont just gunk up?
 
 
 On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 11:01 PM, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hi,
 For a long lasting lube that makes your drive train quieter try bar and 
 chain oil. It is for chainsaws and won't fly off the chain. You can get a 
 quart for under $10 and it will probably last you a 100,000 miles.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
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[RBW] Nice JP Valiensi bike w/ Many Riv Parts

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
One of my bikes was stolen today at CSU Northridge. If you see it pop up on 
Craig's List or Ebay, please drop me a line.

When I first built this bike, and was riding down the road, some passerby 
yelled Nice Rivendell. That was a nice compliment. 

Here is a flickr page of it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamespatrickvaliensi/sets/72157632319454467/

Thanks
James Valiensi
Northridge, CA

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Re: [RBW] Review of Just Ride.

[James Valiensi]

I only had one gripe about the book: did not mention enough about how fun 
riding bicycles is.
James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On Jun 29, 2012, at 8:01 PM, grant wrote:

 I am generally relieved that the book hasn't been panned more and worse. An 
 old friend didn't like it on Amazon, and that hurt me deeply, but I'm trying 
 to get over that, and that hurt has been more than all balmed-up by the 
 generally positive response here and other places. 
 I'm always described as polarizing or divisive, which is a funny thing to 
 read. In print, even here, I tend to not dance around  points I'm trying to 
 make, and I don't qualify things with IMHO or whatever. But most of the book 
 IS opinion, and I hope nobody thinks it's all-or-nothing. I DO believe it 
 all, but I don't expect 100 percent compliance or agreement or anything. Some 
 of my best friends ride clipless and dress in spandex and grind away long 
 long miles, and they're no fools. I do fear for the ones who ride carbon 
 forks, though---and maybe carbon has gotten better, but snapping is still 
 common, and the nature of the failures has not changed.
 Anyway...I really hope I don't offend anybody with my opinions. I think 
 there has been and is an unhelpful emphasis on racer-like riding as a goal 
 for us all---the idea that we suffer and get stronger and leaner in payment 
 for the the suffering, and that we have so much to learn from racers. I 
 really do think all that is bs. But anywaythere's no Kool-Aid to drink 
 here. Just stuff to consider, whatever, and reject whenever rejection seems 
 the way to go. Over and out on that, but thank you all for however much 
 you've liked the book.
 
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Re: [RBW] Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy

[James Valiensi]

I've been using Chris King headsets since 1992. Never had one wear out or go 
bad. I used them on road bikes, mountain bikes, and city bikes. They last and 
are reliable. Grant used to sell them. 


James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA




On Apr 2, 2012, at 5:09 PM, Bill M. wrote:

 1995 Riv Road - still on original headset.
 
 1983 Miyata 1000 - still on original headset.  
 
 Can't think of when I have ever worn out a bottom bracket.  I swap parts 
 around too often for any one to get too much wear.  The Miyata has a Nashbar 
 sealed bearing BB from the 80's or so.  Still smooth.
 
 I'm not a mega-mileage rider, don't tour with heavy loads, and rarely get 
 rained on,  so I may not be typical around here.  
 
 Bill
 
 On Monday, April 2, 2012 6:30:12 AM UTC-7, shawn wrote:
 How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and 
 bottom bracket?
 
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Re: [RBW] Bottom Bracket Thread Cleaning

[James Valiensi]

Hey,
I recommend you have the LBS run a set of BB taps thru your shell. That will 
clean it up real nice.
James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On Nov 26, 2011, at 2:40 AM, islaysteve wrote:

 Thanks for the tips, guys.  Paint thinner didn't seem to work too well, so I 
 thought a stiffer brush might be needed.  I can try WD40 and if that doesn't 
 work, can get Naptha at the hardware store or HD without too much trouble.  
 Steve
 
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Re: [RBW] Noticed anything different about front bag handling

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
When I ordered my custom Rivendell back in 02 I requested braze-on mounts for a 
small front rack. I had to send a drawing to Grant to show where I thought the 
mounts needed to be. At this time I don't Rivendell had a request for such 
mounts. 
When I got the bike I eventually mounted a Berthoud front rack and handle bar 
bag. The Nitto Mark's rack was still years away. The handle bar bag I used was 
a small one. I did many rides with the set up and never liked it.

The weight of the bag made the steering feel floppy. Especially going up hill. 
And when I got off the bike the bag would twist the front around; to me this 
was miserable. 

So I'd say adding a front bag to my Rivendell did indeed affect the handling - 
in a negative way. Perhaps the Rivendell does not have enough fork rake to 
offset the bag.
 
James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On Nov 24, 2011, at 7:41 AM, Jan Heine wrote:

 On Nov 23, 10:47 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Imagine trying to carry a heavy backpack. You lean forward. When you
 remove the backpack, while still leaning forward, you fall over. On
 the other hand, when you add a backpack and don't lean forward, you
 also fall over. So does the backpack help or hurt your balance? It's
 neither, the backpack is part of the system that balances. Trying to
 add a backpack without changing the other variables  (lean angle
 forward/back) does not work well.
 
 I like that metaphor.  Thanks for that.  Have you used that one before?
  I'd never heard it before.
 
 It came to me as I was thinking about how to explain the load being a
 factor. That is what I like about online discussions - they get you to
 think about things in different ways.
 
 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 http://www.bikequarterly.com
 
 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: What's your winter project? 2011 version

[James Valiensi]

Actual Sheldon Brown hit right when he said the riding around here is good 
9-months out of the year, the other three are too damn hot! This is true for 
SoCal. 
James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On Nov 22, 2011, at 7:53 AM, Garth wrote:

 My winter plans are to leave the cold North for Southern California, so I can 
 ride and live in some sunshine ! It's what I want more than anything right 
 now. 
 
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[RBW] Schwalbe Marathon Extreme Folding 700 x 40 tires FS

[James Valiensi]

Hi,
I have a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Extremes used for one 25-mile mixed terrain 
ride. They have a little dirt on the outside and talc on the inside. No damage, 
tears, or punctures. 

They are 42-622 or 700C x 40. They fit on my 29'er but I really wanted to use 
them on my Rivendell. They were a little too big, so I bought the next size 
down.

These tire provide great off road traction, but don't have the buzz and drag of 
regular MTB tires - I'd highly recommend them.

$135 including shipping to the US.

Cheers!

James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796




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[RBW] Ride from Rivendell to Mt Diablo

[James Valiensi]

Hey,
Does anyone know the route from Rivendell/Main Street to Mt. Diablo on bike? I 
intend to ride it tomorrow morning. I have done it before with the Rivendell 
gang, but it was a twisted route that I can't remember.

Thanks!

James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On Aug 18, 2011, at 6:42 AM, Marty wrote:

 Planning a trip to Rivendell in a couple weeks, and looked up the BART 
 station. Fun to see that a photo from Rivendell popped right up on the page!
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/6056089662/in/photostream
 
 Now, if only they could put together a garage sale for Friday the 26th...
 
 Marty
 
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[RBW] How Schwalbe Tire Are Made

[James Valiensi]

Hullo,
If you have not seen this video, it is fascinating.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9RzJAWvOMQfeature=player_embedded


James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



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Re: [RBW] Re: How Schwalbe Tire Are Made

[James Valiensi]

I think the basic concepts are the same, because the end products are so 
similar. But each maker has their proprietary methods.

The things that impressed me about Schwalbe were:

All tires from the most expensive to the cheapest came thru the same production 
line.
The attention to quality control.
Amount of effort to train the employees.
The costs of the machinery!!!

Things I like about using their tires:
Great durability and puncture resistance
Reflective sidewall
Range of sizes (My wife's bike with the kid 1/2 bike has matching tires all 
around - 650B  406!)

One thing I tried was their lightest road race tires, and do not like them. 
Riding on them makes the bike feel like it is on ice. 

James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On Jun 18, 2011, at 6:28 PM, rcnute wrote:

 Interesting.  I don't know anything about bike tire manufacturing.  Is
 the process basically the same for all tires?
 
 Ryan
 
 On Jun 18, 3:37 pm, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hullo,
 If you have not seen this video, it is fascinating.
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9RzJAWvOMQfeature=player_embedded
 
 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
 
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