from:"Jason Hartman"

Re: [RBW] Albatross bar slipping

2017-02-28 Thread Jason Hartman

I have found that swept back bars such as the albatross need to have the
stem bolt torqued much tighter to keep from slipping. Sometimes
disconsortingly so. My albatross slipped when the stem was torqued to spec.
In such cases, i try to find a stem with a through bolt, and not one that
relies on aluminum for threading.

Jay Hartman
On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 6:52 PM Eric Norris  wrote:

> I suggested friction paste to my mechanic for a similar problem, and he
> quickly pooh-poohed that idea. There’s got to be a mechanical fix to your
> issue.
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyonly...@me.com
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On Feb 28, 2017, at 1:46 PM, CMR  wrote:
>
> Love my albatross bars with a threadless 4-bolt stem, but having issues
> with them slipping on my 25.4 130mm Nitto techomic stem, nothing funny.
> They will slip down a bit on my single speed when standing on the cranks
> starting from a stop light. Nothing dangerous, but annoying and always a
> surprise.
>
> Friction paste? New bars? Keep on riding? Any one else have the issue?
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
> Oakland, CA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Family Coffee/tea Pot

2016-12-26 Thread Jason Hartman

I like that's it's stainless steel, so that there's none of that build up
of deposits like in the bottom of the Bialetti. Also, it has a very thick
bottom that seems to diffuse heat better and result in a smoother espresso.

Jay
On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 9:34 PM Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Jay,
>
> CF my new post on tips using a moka pot. But could you tell me what you
> like better about the Vev Vigano vs. Bialetti? Is it easier to get smoother
> and less fussy to use? Tips for using it? Thanks!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 6:46:26 PM UTC-7, jay hartman wrote:
>
> If you're 1) willing to switch to drinking americanos, and 2) can give up
> MUSA for made in Italy, Vev Vigano has stainless moka pots that brew 12
> cups of espresso at a time. I like my (much smaller version) much better
> that the ubiquitous Bialetti.
>
> Jay Hartman
>
> Jay Hartman
>
> On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 5:31 PM Anton Tutter  wrote:
>
> Not sure if you're looking just for a heating kettle or something more,
> but we have a deLonghi electric kettle
> .
> It's made in China, but it's a high quality unit, all stainless (painted on
> the outside), and brings water to a boil very rapidly. We use it many times
> a day. It uses a well engineered dock which supplies the power, and the
> kettle lifts off of it. The bottom of the kettle never gets hot.
>
> Anton
>
>
>
> On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 10:59:53 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Our coffee/tea pot died. I am searching (in vein, so far) for
> — MUSA (doomed, it appears)
> — all 18/8 or 302 stainless steel (at least inside), non-negotiable
> — large capacity, for a family of 6, so ideally 3-4 liter capacity min.
> (we currently heat our 1.7 liter pot 2 to 3 times in the morning)
> — Possibly recommendations for a similar smaller capacity pot would be
> great.
>
> Toying with the idea of a Camp coffee percilator like this:
> http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Campfire-Coffee-Pot/732378.uts combined
> with a smaller goose neck stovetop pot.
>
> Open to all ideas and suggestions. Thanks!
>
>
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Family Coffee/tea Pot

2016-12-26 Thread Jason Hartman

If you're 1) willing to switch to drinking americanos, and 2) can give up
MUSA for made in Italy, Vev Vigano has stainless moka pots that brew 12
cups of espresso at a time. I like my (much smaller version) much better
that the ubiquitous Bialetti.

Jay Hartman

Jay Hartman
On Mon, Dec 26, 2016 at 5:31 PM Anton Tutter  wrote:

> Not sure if you're looking just for a heating kettle or something more,
> but we have a deLonghi electric kettle
> .
> It's made in China, but it's a high quality unit, all stainless (painted on
> the outside), and brings water to a boil very rapidly. We use it many times
> a day. It uses a well engineered dock which supplies the power, and the
> kettle lifts off of it. The bottom of the kettle never gets hot.
>
> Anton
>
>
>
> On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 10:59:53 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Our coffee/tea pot died. I am searching (in vein, so far) for
> — MUSA (doomed, it appears)
> — all 18/8 or 302 stainless steel (at least inside), non-negotiable
> — large capacity, for a family of 6, so ideally 3-4 liter capacity min.
> (we currently heat our 1.7 liter pot 2 to 3 times in the morning)
> — Possibly recommendations for a similar smaller capacity pot would be
> great.
>
> Toying with the idea of a Camp coffee percilator like this:
> http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Campfire-Coffee-Pot/732378.uts combined
> with a smaller goose neck stovetop pot.
>
> Open to all ideas and suggestions. Thanks!
>
>
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Pile of Parts FS

2016-12-16 Thread Jason Hartman

That's seriously underpriced, and a fantastic bargain. I would jump on it
myself but, 1) I have no immediate need, 2) way more than enough spare
parts.

Jay Hartman

On Friday, December 16, 2016, Patrick Shea  wrote:

> I have a set of Modolo brake calipers, Bianchi crankset,  NR front and
> rear derailluers, celeste Silca frame pump, and pedals that spin smooth
> even while missing one dust cap. Oh yeah, NR dt shifters. Everything works.
>
> $30 + shipping
> Everything in picture
>
> https://flic.kr/p/MzRtQu
>
> Cheers,
> Patrick
>
>
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Re: [RBW] PSA: NOS 56 Rambouillett on KC Craigslist

2016-03-06 Thread Jason Hartman

It's in the old Riv Readers somewhere, but I think the front end geometry
changed over time. The first ones had a 73 degree head angle with a 45 mm
fork rake, at least on the middle sizes.
Jay Hrtman

On Sunday, March 6, 2016, iamkeith  wrote:

>
>
> On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 10:50:49 AM UTC-7, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have the Geo chart for the Ram? I went to the cyclofiend
>> pages and did a quick scan. Thanks,
>>
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>
> It's in this chart:
>
> cyclofiend.com/rbw/geometry.html
>
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Re: [RBW] Single Speed Freewheel Removal

2015-11-17 Thread Jason Hartman

There are a few options I can think of:

Use a grinder to make the removal tool's hole big enough to fit over the PW
end cap.

Make your own tool out of a flat piece of scrap steel. Of course, it will
only engage two notches and I would recommend using the vice method.

Use a chisel or punch of some sort to get the freewheel started.

Take the freewheel apart, and use a big pipe wrench to remove the part of
the body still stuck on the hub. This should be a last resort as it usually
kills the freewheel.

I have used the chisel and homemade tool method successfully in the past
with no damage to the freewheel or hub. Though my hubs were Campagnolo, not
PW

Jay Hartman

On Tuesday, November 17, 2015, George Schick  wrote:

> Anyone out there know of a "BMX" freewheel removal tool that will work
> well with a Phil Hub?  Unfortunately, the center hole on a commonly used
> tool, like the Park FR-6, is not large enough to slip over the
> larger-than-normal axle caps of the Phil hub.  This means that the axle cap
> on the drive side must first be removed, which is not only an extra PITA,
> but then the removal tool has to sit against the notches on the freewheel
> without benefit of the QR skewer to hold it in place, risking the stripping
> of the FW notches in the process.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Rust, Repaint options and Realignment Questions.

2015-09-06 Thread Jason Hartman

I'm going to recommend taking it in the opposite direction. Skip the
blasting and powder coat. Tackle the rust and just hit the bare spots with
a clear coat of rattle can, or wax. It will be way less attractive to
thieves and function just as well.

Jay Hartman

On Sunday, September 6, 2015, drew  wrote:

> Thanks for the bb closing recommendations. Both seem more thought out than
> what I did. I'll give it a go today.
> It is unlikely that I'll have it realigned. I don't really think it's that
> big of an issue, I was just wanting to make sure that it didn't need to be
> realigned. And of course, one could find a nicer/straighter frame for more
> money, but that would take away the magic of rescuing this almost free,
> almost disposed of frame.
>
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Re: [RBW] How to get out Brooks sit bone divets sop the rear frame down;t dig into my rear end.

2015-09-05 Thread Jason Hartman

I used an electric drill to do mine. Quick and easy.

On Monday, August 31, 2015, N. Llama  wrote:

> Speaking of lacing Brooks saddles, does anyone have a basic DIY for it? Do
> I need a Leather Punch or Awl or can I do it at home with other tools?
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Quality of Deore front hubs?

2015-07-28 Thread Jason Hartman

Midline Shimano hubs are a bargain. They are well sealed, and thankfully,
Shimano has continued to use cup and cone bearings. Be aware that they
without fail come from the factory with very little grease and adjusted far
too tightly.

Open up the hub, squirt some more grease in there, and adjust the cones.
You should be good for many thousands of miles.

Jay Hartman

On Tuesday, July 28, 2015, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Stevie built up a spare front wheel for the '03 Riv using a current model
 Deore hub instead of the used, silver, road that I wanted. He only charged
 me $18.95 for the Deore, so I don't mind, but it's rather ugly and I'm
 thinking of having him rebuild it with a used, better quality, silver road
 hub. The rim is a silver-on-black Sun/Ringle Equalizer and he used black
 nipples (yes, I authorized that), so it doesn't look as bad as otherwise;
 and if the reports of quality are fair, I may not bother with a rebuild.

 Anyone?

 Thanks.

 --
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Re: [RBW] Brilliant Bicycle Company

2015-05-30 Thread Jason Hartman

I just read the assembly instructions. Indeed these guys are brilliant.
They have managed to make a bicycle where you can get the front wheel nuts
and pedals tight enough with what looks like a four inch wrench. Even
better, no grease is needed on the stem, seatpost or pedal threads. As an
added bonus the brakes are apparently perfectly adjusted right out of the
box.

Jay Hartman.

On Friday, May 29, 2015, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

Thought this might be of interest to the group—a new company selling
simple MUSA bicycles:

http://techcrunch.com/2015/05/27/ex-vcs-launch-brilliant-bicycle-co-with-1-5-million-in-funding/?ncid=rsscps=gravity_1462_4834067520792034342#.7chmya:hLTJ

According to the article, their goal is to sell “reasonably priced bikes
to people who care more about simplicity and color than specs and ounces.

Hmmm … who else does that? They also point at mainstream cycling companies
whose ads feature, pictures of high-end racing bikes ridden by
middle-aged, spandex-clad men.

Oh, by the way, their prices start at $299 with free shipping in the USA.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','campyonly...@me.com');
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] RBW Osaka Roadie clip bell loud enough?

2015-05-18 Thread Jason Hartman

It's really easy to slip a washer on the shaft between the bell and the
striker. I have done it on a few of my bikes. It  completely solves the
unintended ringing problem.

Jay Hartman

On Monday, May 18, 2015, blakcloud blakclou...@gmail.com wrote:

 I haven't used that bell but I know I wouldn't buy it. I dislike bells
 that use the striker on a spring. Every time you hit a bump the bell rings
 because of that spring. If you want a small bell, try this one from
 Spurcycle
 http://www.spurcycle.com/collections/frontpage/products/better-bicycle-bell-raw.
 Yes, it is a lot of money but I have four of them and they are the nicest
 bell I have ever used.


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Re: [RBW] Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Jason Hartman

Not to be pedantic, but that looks like the Lambert copy of the TA crank.
They were designed for their proprietary spindle that was taperless. If you
were using it on another bottom bracket, it's not surprising that it broke.
A lot of people get the two cranks confused because they look so similar.

Jay Hartman

On Thursday, April 30, 2015, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 can't see your photos without a yahoo account.  I think we're dealing with
 the biggest limitation of a square taper crank.  The torque is going to
 gradually relax, and stresses become really high on the inside corner - the
 one that's loaded when you step on the crank.  I had the same thing happen
 on a used TA5 - broke when I was taking off from a stoplight.


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207649.jpg

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aP1207650.jpg



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Re: [RBW] Broken Crank (Quickbeam)

2015-04-30 Thread Jason Hartman

In that case, my apologies.
Nice bit of camouflage too.

Jay

On Thursday, April 30, 2015, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jay, it's only Lambert foils from Cyclomondo.  It was an Anglophile
 splash, disavowing the French connection.


 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aPA110001.jpg


 On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:34:30 AM UTC-5, jay hartman wrote:

 Not to be pedantic, but that looks like the Lambert copy of the TA crank.
 They were designed for their proprietary spindle that was taperless. If you
 were using it on another bottom bracket, it's not surprising that it broke.
 A lot of people get the two cranks confused because they look so similar.

 Jay Hartman


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Re: [RBW] Seattle RBWers: Help Buying A CL Bike

2015-04-30 Thread Jason Hartman

You might even be able to get an even better rate of you are willing to
pick it up at an REI store.

Jay

On Thursday, April 30, 2015, bo richardson borus...@gmail.com wrote:

 i am in bellingham, not seattle. But how i would do this is
 ask the owner,  your price, my terms. ask him if he minds taking the
 bike to REI
 and having them box and ship. REI ships so many bikes they get good rates
 on shipping.
 Didnt i find that out on the list?
 other less good option is Montlake cycles. it was a good shop when Lynne
 Schaefer
 bought her bike there in 1988. I expect it still is. closer to owner, but
 not as cheap to ship as REI.
 ask REI to look it over and take photos in case shipper damages it.
 some shops will inspect the bike and pay the owner out of funds provided
 by the buyer.
 Is any of this new information for anyone involved here?

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Re: [RBW] Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Jason Hartman

I know the folks at Riv are nice people and all, but if your brand new
$2000 frame is out of spec, then the right thing to do is send it back and
get a new one with the correct tolerance. I could understand using such
workarounds on an old frame of unknown history, but on a new bike that's
totally unacceptable.
   I could almost understand if it were a Surly, or some other budget
frame, but it would still bother me.

Jay Hartman

On Monday, April 27, 2015, Kevin Lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com wrote:

 Just off the phone with Bryan at Riv.  He thought it might be a problem
 with the Waterford frame; apparently, the folks at Waterford get a bit
 sloppy with the tolerances.  His suggested choices are to use a Thompson
 seatpost instead of the Nitto or, as Bruce suggested, send the post back to
 Riv and they'll knurl it.  Unfortunately, the latter will take my Hunq out
 of circulation for 2-3 weeks; before I consider that, I'll check out the
 Thompson posts and see if there's a local machine shop that'll do my Nitto.
 Sigh.  Nothing's easy.
 Kevin


 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:59:18 PM UTC-4, Bruce Smitham wrote:

 I had the same situation with my Sam Hillborne. I called Brian at Riv and
 they were able to knurl the seatpost. Problem solved. You can have a
 machine shop do it but I struggled to find that in San Diego.

 Good luck,

 Bruce

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being
 to spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

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 James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net

 - 700x33






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Re: [RBW] Is my BB installed unsafely?

2015-04-09 Thread Jason Hartman

It's not an ideal set up, but if it hasn't moved so far, I might be
inclined to leave it alone and just keep an eye on it.
That being said, I think the phil spindles are just a straight cylinder
without shoulders to locate the bearings. It should be possible to move the
spindle to one side or the other, using a vice, c clamp, or even a mallet.
Another option is to send it to Phil Wood and have them put in the desired
spindle.

Jay Hartman

On Thursday, April 9, 2015, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi
I purchased a Protovelo web special a couple of years ago and built it up
as a fast light bike.
Here it is:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vZWoW06DQfE/VSaXoOBBp4I/AdA/k8Kaj7wDx40/s1600/IMG_5589.JPG

I had an almost new Sram Apex mini-group and and old set of really nice
A.T. crank arms.
I purchased some TA rings off the group for them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GpeprbBnns0/VSaXtWZz6iI/AdI/T7jYO164sO4/s1600/IMG_5662.JPG

So, these A.T. cranks originally required a long off-set spindle. I
purchased a Phil BB to go with it that was offset and adjustable but
apparently I didn't really measure correctly or accurately enough. In
order to get a good chainline, the BB cups aren't seated perfectly in the
shell.
I think I have just over 5mm of cup thread showing on the drive side.
According to the Phil instructions, *If more than 5mm of thread is
visible, this cartridge may be inappropriate for the frame and crank arm*,
I may need to find another solution.
But...
I've riden the bike pretty hard and it feels OK.

From looking at this photos, can anyone advise if this needs to be
replaced? I don't want take an unnecessary risk.
Non Drive side:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XBQ_TCJzHFo/VSaY0_wRGSI/AdU/eEnCWGJ-l9I/s1600/IMG_5661.JPG
And the scary Drive side:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bEuVdOkmTOI/VSaY6L8kslI/Adc/ydz6y-rht8c/s1600/IMG_5660-2.JPG
thanks in advance
JS

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Re: [RBW] Fund my Clem sale!

2015-03-28 Thread Jason Hartman

I haven't looked them up, but some of the brightly anodized early 90's mtb
parts are becoming collectible. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get
$200 or more for the cranks alone, depending on condition.

Jay Hartman

On Saturday, March 28, 2015, Wayne Naha w.r.n...@gmail.com wrote:

 Let the discounting begin!  Also, my wife thinks that the purple cranks
 are keeping folks from loving this bike.  I told her no way that's true.
 But if you want, I bet with the application of some elbow grease and scotch
 brite pads, you could take that color right off.  Lets say $700.00 for the
 complete bike, or make me an offer for the frame.

 On Saturday, March 14, 2015 at 12:01:19 PM UTC-4, Wayne Naha wrote:

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Re: [RBW] frame repair in Chicago

2015-03-12 Thread Jason Hartman

What exactly happened?
Pictures would help explain too.
Do you use a kickstand?

If it was me, I would cut away as much of the kickstand plate as I could
with a hacksaw, Drexel, etc, and then grind/ file the remnants until there
was nothing left.  Hit it with some primer and touch up paint and get back
to riding. The chain stay bridge is not strictly necessary.

You can still use a kickstand by installing it the normal way, with the two
plates and that big bolt.

If you decide to get a full repaint at some point, you can decide to either
get a new bridge, or kickstand plate, or leave it alone.

Jay Hartman

On Thursday, March 12, 2015, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:

 Hi, all.

 I've done a stupid thing and the upshot is that my kickstand plate on a
 Hillborne is separating from the stays. Does anyone here know who in the
 Chicagoland area (I live in the western suburbs; closer to me would
 obviously be great) would be able to remove/repair/replace my kickstand
 plate? Any ideas as to how much any of those options might cost? Any
 thoughts whether any re-painting of the frame could be limited to the
 kickstand plate area (plate, stays, BB shell)?

 Fortunately, I can still ride the bike right now. But of course I'd rather
 have a healthy, hearty, hale Hillborne.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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Re: [RBW] Clem PreSale.

2015-03-10 Thread Jason Hartman

What Joe said, and Loose Screws now has nice 27 tires:

http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?d=singlec=Tire/Tubesc=Tiretc=Touring%20Tireitem_id=SWT-27138TWid=388484816578

I would try a set of those first, before setting your sights on a whole new
bike.

Jay Hartman

On Tuesday, March 10, 2015, Joe Broach joebro...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Wayne,

I'd hate to talk you out of a new Riv, but you're selling that Raleigh
short. IIRC, the Gran Sport had nice, butted tubing and a lovely fork, all
Reynolds 531. That's as good or better than anything you'd get in a new
production bike (most similar to something like a Hilsen or Rambouillet or
Roadeo in the Riv line-up, in terms of liveliness). The workmanship and
details like braze-ons will be better on a new Riv-spec'd bike, but the
Raleigh shouldn't be holding you back at this point.

How does your current bike fit? If fit is good (or could be with a
bar/stem change), I'd spring for a 700c wheelset, maybe with a dynamo hub
if you think you might want to try some night riding). Those bikes usually
have centerpull brakes and lots of room for fatter tires (700x35 at least,
and get good tires). Have a blast on it for a year or more, and then decide
what you'd want different in a second bike or replacement.

You say you want something more versatile and new. I say that Gran Sport
is a super-versatile bike and nothing like obsolete.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or

On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 2:43 PM, Wayne Naha w.r.n...@gmail.com
javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','w.r.n...@gmail.com'); wrote:

Thanks, everyone for all your thoughts. The reason I was vacillating
between the Clem and the Sam is primarily economic, being that they are
Riv's lowest cost models. I could be very happy on either bicycle. Right
now, I am riding a 1976 vintage Raleigh Gran Sport. Its a fine bike. It
is old school lugged steel, but I tend to baby it because of its age, and a
perceived need to keep it on smooth pavement. It has 27 wheels, and those
don't come in a lot of widths anymore. I am wanting something more
versatile, and new. The thought of a discount Atlantis or Hunq sounds
great. I love the look of the Appaloosa, with the diagatube, the curvy
stays, and the long rear triangle. I would ride it mostly about town,
doing errands, and the occasional foray into the trails around here. I
really don't have any real plans for s24o's, but when the opportunity comes
up, it will be great to have the bike that will handle it. I think I've
talked myself into a Clem, but I'm open to suggestion. I have been curious
about the 650B wheel size, just to try it and see. The medium Clem (my
size) has those, a bonus. But what about that 29.8 mm seatpost? Who makes
that size?

On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 4:14:01 PM UTC-4, Surlyprof wrote:

I bought my Hillborne after seeing the first Clems but I did so because
it was the right compliment to an MTB I already had. It was a replacement
for a Bianchi that maxed out at 25c tires. The Hillborne is a pretty
different bike than the Clem. From initial reports, it sounds like the
Clem is closer to a discount Atlantis or Hunq based on stoutness and a
discount Appaloosa based on stability from longer stays. The Hillborne is
a bit tighter and less stout. Closer to a Hilson than the Atlantis or
Hunq. That said, I just carried 4 bottles of wine in the front basket and
two bottles in the saddlebag yesterday and, aside from a little shimmy, it
was definitely up for the task. I'd feel comfortable camping or touring
with it (seems like many people do). I've also found that everything I
ride now that is not my Hillborne feels twitchy and overly aggressive. The
Sam H is incredibly smooth and handles beautifully but I've come to expect
that from every Rivendell I ride. If you want to ride fatter tires than a
45 (40 with fenders), get the Clem... and enjoy whatever level of
components you want to put on it. Take a look at the Clem Drew Beckmeyer
gave to his girlfriend in the other post. He described it as stout like a
Hunq and it looks fantastic with the Brooks b67 and the Schwalbe Big Ben
50's (50+?) he has on it. A machine to be proud of for sure (as is the
Hillborne if you decide to go that way).

If you are close enough to Riv to try both, that would be the thing to
do. If not, buy the one that supports what you want to do with a bike.
They said the Clem rides like a Riv on the Blug and I believe them. As for
pedals, I love both my thin gripsters and my grip kings. If I had a Clem,
it would have one of those pedals on it (maybe even one of each!... That
sounds very Clem)

John

On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 10:30:22 AM UTC-7, Wayne Naha wrote:

The Clem sounds like a great bike for me, just the right level of
stoutness to the frame and those nice longer chainstays. I had been
considering a Sam, but Clem has turned my head. Yet I can't contemplate
hanging plastic pedals off it, and I would

Re: [RBW] Naked cotton tape

2015-03-02 Thread Jason Hartman

A good tip I just remembered is to thoroughly wet the cotton tape just
before installing. When it dries, it will shrink and be even tighter on the
handlebars.

Jay Hartman

On Monday, March 2, 2015, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Green Grips is on the list to try, though I'm sticking with Newbwaum's for
 this next round. I love the Newbaum's -- it's time to test it naked for a
 year. Yes, it is good to wrap it good and tight.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Surprising Failure Today

2015-01-24 Thread Jason Hartman

I just looked it up. Shimano has a two year warranty on Tiagra. It could be
worth looking into.

Jay Hartman

On Sunday, January 18, 2015, John lindbergj...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Towards the end of my ride today, I heard a loud crunch and my Ram lurched
 to a stop.  Didn't take long to figure out the cause.  My Shimano Tiagra RD
 had separated into two pieces.  The larger chunk with cable attached
 wrapped around the right chainstay and lodged in my spokes.  The other
 piece remained bolted to the dropout.  Fortunately, I was going very slowly
 at the time, so no damage was done to my wheel.  I wasn't shifting at the
 time, just pedaling along.  I was able to break the chain and remove the
 cable so I could at least roll my bike to where my wonderful wife rescued
 me.  Surprising because the RD is only a couple of years old and has not
 suffered any tip-overs that might have damaged it.  I took a couple of
 pictures of the fracture:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/53546004@N07/16312803255/

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/53546004@N07/16125257318/

 Is it just me, or is this not uncommon?

 Off to shop for a new RD.

 John

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Re: [RBW] Your dream RBW wheel set build, please

2014-12-14 Thread Jason Hartman

Velocity a23, Hed Belgium, or H+son rims.
Son deluxe front hub, White Industries rear hub. Double butted spokes.
Maybe 15/16 on the front and nds rear. 14/15 on the drive side.  28 or 32
spokes on the front. 32 spokes on the rear.

Of course, this depends on your riding style.

Jay Hartman

On Sunday, December 14, 2014, David davidboydle...@gmail.com wrote:

 Group, would you mind offering your most ideal road-ish riding wheel set
 built by Riv (Rich)?  This could be what you currently ride or would like
 to ride.  I'm in the process of putting ideas together for a set and I'd
 value your opinions.

 Parameters:  650b Hilsen.  8sp cassette.  Would prefer on the lighter,
 fast-ish road-riding side.  Load will be under 200 lbs.  Dynohub a moderate
 consideration.

 Thanks, group.

 David
 Sacramento, CA


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Re: [RBW] Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

2014-12-05 Thread Jason Hartman

While the Park cable cutter is ok, the Felco I used while working at a bike
shop this summer is leagues better. My guess is that costs leagues more
too, but I haven't looked up the price.

Jay Hartman.

On Friday, December 5, 2014, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:

 Seconded for the Park 3-way wrench, and good cable cutters (Park, too, in
 my case).

 On Friday, December 5, 2014 4:41:41 PM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro
 wrote:

 Lots of good advice here.  Sometimes cheap can be fine.  I'd wager that
 the only difference between the Park digital caliper and the one I got at
 Harbor Freight for $15 is the color of the electronics housing.  But you'll
 never pry my 3-way Park wrench out of my hands until I'm  rubber side up
 for good.

 BTW, the single best tool I own is my Shimano cable cutter.  That makes
 life SO much more pleasant!

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Re: [RBW] What components do you wish RBW would start making?

2014-11-25 Thread Jason Hartman

What would you like in a crankset that isn't offered now?

It's hard to beat the Sugino that Riv sells.
If they start with a new forging, then it would be hard to keep the price
reasonable. Is it worth two to three times the cost of the Sugino just to
get a lower Q factor? At that point you could buy something nos on eBay, or
the RH crankset.

Jay Hartman.

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 I’d be interested to see what Grant and company would come up with if they
 designed a crankset. I’m intrigued by the modern Rene Herse crankset that
 Boulder Bicycles sells, but it’s a little pricey. I’m sure Grant could
 design a retro-looking crank (square tapers, of course) and produce it for
 a more affordable price.

 —Eric N
 campyonly...@me.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','campyonly...@me.com');
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy

 On Nov 25, 2014, at 3:20 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','john11.2...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Since they are not componenteurs, but they do have their own Silver line
 and bag line, etc.

 I'll start:

 *Decaleurs.* I have recently been searching for decaleurs, and there seem
 to be slim pickin's in the bike biz these days. 5 total I have found.
 1 inexpensive and 1 mid point pricing models that all have mixed reviews,
 and 3 very expensive ones with seemingly no reviews I have found.

 So it would be cool if RBW came out with their own decaleur to offer. The
 bike industry needs another decaleur model.


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Re: [RBW] What components do you wish RBW would start making?

2014-11-25 Thread Jason Hartman

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 I really don’t care about Q factor—it’s more about aesthetics. I’d like to
 see what it would look like.

 OTOH, Velo Orange does a pretty good job with their retro-styled cranks. I
 have them on three bikes at the moment.

 —Eric N
 campyonly...@me.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','campyonly...@me.com');
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy

 On Nov 25, 2014, at 5:04 PM, Jason Hartman rjasonhart...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','rjasonhart...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 What would you like in a crankset that isn't offered now?

 It's hard to beat the Sugino that Riv sells.
 If they start with a new forging, then it would be hard to keep the price
 reasonable. Is it worth two to three times the cost of the Sugino just to
 get a lower Q factor? At that point you could buy something nos on eBay, or
 the RH crankset.

 Jay Hartman.

 On Tuesday, November 25, 2014, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','campyonly...@me.com'); wrote:

 I’d be interested to see what Grant and company would come up with if
 they designed a crankset. I’m intrigued by the modern Rene Herse crankset
 that Boulder Bicycles sells, but it’s a little pricey. I’m sure Grant could
 design a retro-looking crank (square tapers, of course) and produce it for
 a more affordable price.

 —Eric N
 campyonly...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy

 On Nov 25, 2014, at 3:20 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Since they are not componenteurs, but they do have their own Silver line
 and bag line, etc.

 I'll start:

 *Decaleurs.* I have recently been searching for decaleurs, and there
 seem to be slim pickin's in the bike biz these days. 5 total I have found.
 1 inexpensive and 1 mid point pricing models that all have mixed reviews,
 and 3 very expensive ones with seemingly no reviews I have found.

 So it would be cool if RBW came out with their own decaleur to offer. The
 bike industry needs another decaleur model.


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Re: [RBW] What components do you wish RBW would start making?

2014-11-25 Thread Jason Hartman

As with most things that VO sells, I think their cranks are about 80-90%
there, design wise.
The anodizing isn't all that great and how hard could it be to center the
fluting on the front of the crank arm.  Campy, Suntour, shimano, Sugino, et
al. Seemed to have no problem doing both for decades. I'm sure the VO ones
work fine though.

JH

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 I really don’t care about Q factor—it’s more about aesthetics. I’d like to
 see what it would look like.

 OTOH, Velo Orange does a pretty good job with their retro-styled cranks. I
 have them on three bikes at the moment.

 —Eric N
 campyonly...@me.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','campyonly...@me.com');
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy

 On Nov 25, 2014, at 5:04 PM, Jason Hartman rjasonhart...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','rjasonhart...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 What would you like in a crankset that isn't offered now?

 It's hard to beat the Sugino that Riv sells.
 If they start with a new forging, then it would be hard to keep the price
 reasonable. Is it worth two to three times the cost of the Sugino just to
 get a lower Q factor? At that point you could buy something nos on eBay, or
 the RH crankset.

 Jay Hartman.

 On Tuesday, November 25, 2014, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','campyonly...@me.com'); wrote:

 I’d be interested to see what Grant and company would come up with if
 they designed a crankset. I’m intrigued by the modern Rene Herse crankset
 that Boulder Bicycles sells, but it’s a little pricey. I’m sure Grant could
 design a retro-looking crank (square tapers, of course) and produce it for
 a more affordable price.

 —Eric N
 campyonly...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy

 On Nov 25, 2014, at 3:20 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Since they are not componenteurs, but they do have their own Silver line
 and bag line, etc.

 I'll start:

 *Decaleurs.* I have recently been searching for decaleurs, and there
 seem to be slim pickin's in the bike biz these days. 5 total I have found.
 1 inexpensive and 1 mid point pricing models that all have mixed reviews,
 and 3 very expensive ones with seemingly no reviews I have found.

 So it would be cool if RBW came out with their own decaleur to offer. The
 bike industry needs another decaleur model.


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Re: [RBW] Speaking of Stem Shifters...

2014-11-25 Thread Jason Hartman

You can try the Suntour stem shifters on nine speed, and if they don't
work, just use the Riv mount. Btw, both shifter bodies are the same, the
front one just doesn't have the ratchet. If you find another set, the
transplant is easy and you can have ratcheting for both front and rear.

Jay Hartman.

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014, Mike Williams mkernanwilli...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Chris,  that Atlantis is looking sooo great man!   Cant wait to see it
 fully built.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 25, 2014, at 6:19 PM, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cj.spin...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Nudged by Bill's inspiration, I ordered stem shifter mounts from Riv for
 my Atlantis.  Then, in a classic timing move by me, I remembered I had some
 stem shifters way back in my parts pile...somewhere.  I found them and
 cleaned them up a bit...

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/28889177@N06/15854585506/in/photostream/

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/28889177@N06/15878412351/in/photostream/

 ...and wondered, because they are bodacious, whether these things would
 shift a modern 9spd cassette.  Any suggestions?

 The lever for the rear has a delightful ratchet, and the lever for the
 front is pure friction.

 Chris Johnson
 Sanger, Texas

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Re: [RBW] Riv for the wife

2014-11-05 Thread Jason Hartman

This brings up a related question. Just how do most people get on their
bikes? I put my left foot on the pedal and swing my leg over the back, as
one does with a horse. I guess with abig saddlebag that could be a problem,
but I don't use them.

Jay Hartman

On Wednesday, November 5, 2014, Cecily Walker cecily.wal...@gmail.com
wrote:

 The top tube on the Betty Foy ain't *that* low, says this Betty Foy owner
 with lots of joint problems.



 On Wednesday, November 5, 2014 4:53:52 AM UTC-8, Michael Flournoy wrote:

 She needs the low top tube. Joint problems.


 On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 11:50:42 AM UTC-5, Anne Paulson wrote:

 What about one of the other Rivs? I agree with you about the Cheviot
 colors; baby vomit color is not to my taste either, and I don't like
 orange. Can she fit on a Sam or a Homer?

 If I were you I'd be looking for a used Betty in good condition. They
 come on the market from time to time.


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Re: [RBW] OT (grant-related, not Riv-related): lo-carb, high fat protein, ketosis, c.

2014-11-04 Thread Jason Hartman

Not to hijack the thread, but is there any reason that a thin healthy
person with good cholesterol, blood numbers, etc, should even consider this
diet?

Is there any other benefit to be had?

Jay Hartman.

On Tuesday, November 4, 2014, Corwin ernf...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've been cutting back on carbs for about four years. I watched the Gary
 Taubes videos recorded by Grant a couple months after they were posted on
 Youtube. Still kicking myself for not attending in person. After watching
 the videos, I decided to read Good Calories, Bad Calories. That book
 changed my life.

 Now I understand how I can go for a long run or bike ride, lose five
 pounds or so (possibly all water) and then gain it all back (and more!)
 eating the endurance athelete's dinner of pasta. I no longer eat pasta.
 Still eat the sauces (especially pesto!) though.

 About food for sub24O - I would take some hard cheese, Framani Chorizo and
 canned oysters. Probably some raw veggies too - like carrots or cherry
 tomatoes.

 Not sure why Grant does not love kale - perhaps he's never tried this kale
 salad:

 http://www.drweil.com/drw/u/RCP02206/Tuscan-Kale-Salad.html

 I adopted the change after watching friends and family suffer from
 diabetes and related conditions. Never had a big problem keeping the weight
 off - but it's sure a lot easier now. I guess my only difficulty
 transitioning was with potassium. I get terrible leg cramps when I don't
 consume enough potassium. Before going low carb, I used to control this by
 eating a few bananas each week. After going low carb, nothing seemed to
 work. Tried V8 juice. Tried potassium supplements. No help. Then I
 discovered there are 800 mg of potassium in a large russet. Now I eat a
 large, baked russet (lots of butter) every three weeks or so. No more
 cramps.

 Good luck. And let us know how it goes.


 Corwin

 On Sunday, November 2, 2014 12:24:52 PM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:

 First off, this isn't necessarily Riv-related, or even bike-related
 technically, but it is Grant-related. If this falls outside the parameters
 of this list, let me know, and Jim feel free to delete.

 I've been following Grant's new blog for his new book and am genuinely
 interested in the diet/exercise viewpoint that he discusses and follows.
 I guess my questions are (and answers probably should be offlist I guess):
 Anyone follow a similar diet?
 Your general experiences?
 Your reasons for adopting this diet, and your experience in the
 transition period?
 Difficulties?
 What would you bring on a lengthy bike ride (bike-related!) or overnight?
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

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Re: [RBW] OT (grant-related, not Riv-related): lo-carb, high fat protein, ketosis, c.

2014-11-04 Thread Jason Hartman

No, not at all. The last time it was checked, my good cholesterol was 100
and my bad was 130. I love sardines, and fish in general. I just haven't
given up on carbs.
Would it make a difference?
That is what I want to know. Is this a diet just for people who are
overweight? Or with health problems in general?
Curious minds and all that.

Jay Hartman.

On Tuesday, November 4, 2014, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 If good cholesterol means low cholesterol then you are likely not
 improving heart health any and are depriving your brain and neurological
 systems of a nutrient they need (cholesterol), leading to higher rates of
 altzheimer's, MS, and more.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 6:59:25 PM UTC-7, jay hartman wrote:

 Not to hijack the thread, but is there any reason that a thin healthy
 person with good cholesterol, blood numbers, etc, should even consider this
 diet?

 Is there any other benefit to be had?

 Jay Hartman.

 On Tuesday, November 4, 2014, Corwin ern...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've been cutting back on carbs for about four years. I watched the Gary
 Taubes videos recorded by Grant a couple months after they were posted on
 Youtube. Still kicking myself for not attending in person. After watching
 the videos, I decided to read Good Calories, Bad Calories. That book
 changed my life.

 Now I understand how I can go for a long run or bike ride, lose five
 pounds or so (possibly all water) and then gain it all back (and more!)
 eating the endurance athelete's dinner of pasta. I no longer eat pasta.
 Still eat the sauces (especially pesto!) though.

 About food for sub24O - I would take some hard cheese, Framani Chorizo
 and canned oysters. Probably some raw veggies too - like carrots or cherry
 tomatoes.

 Not sure why Grant does not love kale - perhaps he's never tried this
 kale salad:

 http://www.drweil.com/drw/u/RCP02206/Tuscan-Kale-Salad.html

 I adopted the change after watching friends and family suffer from
 diabetes and related conditions. Never had a big problem keeping the weight
 off - but it's sure a lot easier now. I guess my only difficulty
 transitioning was with potassium. I get terrible leg cramps when I don't
 consume enough potassium. Before going low carb, I used to control this by
 eating a few bananas each week. After going low carb, nothing seemed to
 work. Tried V8 juice. Tried potassium supplements. No help. Then I
 discovered there are 800 mg of potassium in a large russet. Now I eat a
 large, baked russet (lots of butter) every three weeks or so. No more
 cramps.

 Good luck. And let us know how it goes.


 Corwin

 On Sunday, November 2, 2014 12:24:52 PM UTC-8, David Banzer wrote:

 First off, this isn't necessarily Riv-related, or even bike-related
 technically, but it is Grant-related. If this falls outside the parameters
 of this list, let me know, and Jim feel free to delete.

 I've been following Grant's new blog for his new book and am genuinely
 interested in the diet/exercise viewpoint that he discusses and follows.
 I guess my questions are (and answers probably should be offlist I
 guess):
 Anyone follow a similar diet?
 Your general experiences?
 Your reasons for adopting this diet, and your experience in the
 transition period?
 Difficulties?
 What would you bring on a lengthy bike ride (bike-related!) or
 overnight?
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

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Re: [RBW] Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-13 Thread Jason Hartman

To get the bolt out, go to a auto parts store or the like and buy yourself
an easy out tool. You will have to drill a small hole in the end of the
broken bolt. Then insert the tool and turn counter clockwise. It should
come right out.

Secondly, get yourself some good calipers and measure the seat post. It
could be slightly undersized which is allowing it to slip. Or the seat tube
is slightly oversized, but that is harder to measure.

Either way, you shouldn't have to torque that hard to keep your seat post
from slipping.

Jay Hartman.

On Monday, October 13, 2014, DS davecst...@gmail.com wrote:

 I emailed brian @ riv who helped put this Hunq together, but while I wait
 for a response I thought I'd swing this by the RBW group since I'm
 generally not very mechanically inclined (I learn by you tube videos).

 1. Been having major issues with seat post slippage on the Hunq. Every
 time I think I get the seat post clamp (which is part of the frame) as
 tight as I can get it, within 30 minutes of riding it has slipped a good
 inch, maybe more. I've never had this issue on a bike before, how do you
 address this? More grease or beeswax on the seat post? Different bolt?
 Quick release? Would having a medium sackville with all my camping gear be
 weighing it down more and causing this?

 2. I stripped the seat post bolt (the one in the seat post clamp, not the
 saddle rails), so decided to take the whole bolt out and bring it to a LBS
 or hardware store to get a replacement one (it stripped just enough that i
 could no longer tighten it, but I could still loosen it). Upon turning it
 counter clockwise to get it out, the bolt head snapped right off. Now the
 rest of the bolt is stuck in the clamp (again, the clamp is part of the
 frame). So, how does one get the bolt out? Both ends are buried in the
 housing that is inside the clamp braze ons (is that the right terminogoy
 here? Is this something an LBS would have the tools to do? Or do I need to
 find a mechanic who knows how to drill a hole through the center of the
 bolt and extract it out that way? Is there an easier way? Anything to
 consider so I don't mess up the frame?

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Re: [RBW] Forget that Riv Custom

2014-10-09 Thread Jason Hartman

I'm surprised Waterford agreed to build it with those drop outs. That is a
highly stressed area and not one that should have any metal removed from.

Jay Hartman

On Thursday, October 9, 2014, Mike K. mikehkai...@gmail.com wrote:

 Sorry to bump this back to the top, but this has nothing to do with the
 Schwinn Sierra.

 This popped up on my Instagram yesterday. Could be a bike worth
 considering http://www.houseind.com/objects/velo/. That crank
 especially knocked me over for a second. Specialites TA, 48-36-24. Goodness
 it's pretty. More than an average Riv build, but it's good a good looking
 bike designed by a font designer.

 - Mike in Austin.


 On Thursday, October 2, 2014 10:09:01 AM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:

 Spend that 5k on this beauty!

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VIN-SCHWINN-SIERRA-21-5-BIKE-
 G0585-STAMPED-MOUNTAIN-SPEED-BIKE-26-ARAYA-RIMS-/201171118447?pt=LH_
 DefaultDomain_0hash=item2ed6bba96f

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Re: [RBW] SONdelux or Shutter Precision SV-8 Dynamo Hub?

2014-10-07 Thread Jason Hartman

FWIW, my circa 1996 son28 lights an old version of the edeluxe to full
strength just walking the bike across the room. I have no experience with
the deluxe version of the hub. I thought about upgrading last year, but
decided to save my money for a new bike instead.

Jay Hartman.

On Tuesday, October 7, 2014, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Ignoring the original question about the SP hubs and focusing on the
 flickering that people are talking about

 I have the SON Deluxe Widebody with the Cyo Premium T.  The light
 flickers at approximately .001 MPH, but by the time you're going 3 or
 4 MPH, the light is solid.  Truthfully, so far I have not been able to
 ride slow enough to make the light flicker while I am actually riding
 the bike.  I would be willing to bet money that any other modern LED
 light would also operate well with this hub.  I see many others riding
 different lights with SON Deluxe hubs in the RUSA clubs in Texas and
 elsewhere and nobody has a problem with flicking at realistic cycling
 speeds that will keep you from falling off your bike.

 I think this flicker issue is way overstated.  You only need the SON
 non-deluxe if you are using old school lights like the E6, or if you
 are powering your phone and Garmin from the hub also.  $0.02.

 If you do any sort of riding that will require a water bottle to
 maintain hydration, you will want the lower rolling resistance of the
 SON Deluxe.  The hub operation is barely perceptible.  My
 seat-of-the-pants opinion is that the old school SON28s and the
 Shimano hubs have much more rolling resistance.  I have owned all
 three types and I put thousands of kilometers in brevets on both the
 SON28 and the Shimano hubs and after having a SON Deluxe for a few
 months, I would never go back.

 The ones with more resistance are fine for just puttering around
 within a few miles of your house.

 Now, back to the original topic, I am intrigued by the Shutter
 Precision hubs, but there they have a similar question between the
 PV-8 and the SV-8 which has lower rolling resistance.  I don't know if
 it's similar to the SON28/SON deluxe, but I look forward to seeing
 this question answered.

 -Jim

 On Tue, Oct 7, 2014 at 4:14 PM, 'Rick' via RBW Owners Bunch
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com javascript:; wrote:
  What size tire?  Rich said that on 700c that the SONdelux will cut out a
 bit
  at lower speeds, whereas the SON28 does not.  More resistance (marginal)
 on
  latter.
 
 
  On Monday, October 6, 2014 11:15:10 PM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:
 
  Trying to decide on a dyno hub.
 
  Which one has less drag and more power, and what else could be of
 concern?
  I have read the blug about the Shutter, but it doesn't give definite
 stats
  on how it specifically compares to the SONdelux.
  Since this is gonna be a big investment, I want to be sure I am getting
  something that's going to run lights really well, and not make noise,
 not
  make the bike vibrate, and keep the lights on after the wheel stops
 turning,
  etc. No flicker, no cutting out at low speeds, etc.
 
  Thanks for any info.
 
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Re: [RBW] Blug post

2014-09-22 Thread Jason Hartman

Just wondering, but if Soma can build a Rivendell designed lugged frame
that sells for around $750, then why can't Riv do it themselves? They could
even eliminate the superfluous second top tube and even save some money.

I did a quick run through at Ben's Cycles website and came up with a decent
(not spectacular, but not crappy) build for around $600. No pedals or seat,
but those are personal preferences.

That's less than $1400 for a fully lugged bike that's available now.

Jay Hartman

On Monday, September 22, 2014, Tom Harrop twhar...@gmail.com wrote:

 When I was waiting for my tentacular Bombadil in 2011, Keven told me the
 join where the diagatube meets the down tube and splits into mixte stays
 for the rear triangle was quite tricky to execute (I don't remember why),
 and the frame was sent from Waterford to Nobilette specifically for that
 joint. Maybe the new bike will have a diagatube with TIG weld(s) in this
 area?

 For what it's worth (not a huge deal in my opinion), looking closely for
 the first time, I think my 2011 Bombadil already has 4 TIG welds where the
 tentacular mixte stays join the diagatube and chain/seat stays. It's
 slightly different to the join in that area on the Cheviot. I don't know
 nothin' about nothin', but if this classifies as a not-fully-lugged frame,
 it's still Riv enough for me!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Non-Brifter Brifter (from Blug Post)

2011-11-28 Thread Jason Hartman

On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 5:18 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 They seem (at first sight) very possibly a very good idea; my question
 would rather be: if they are so good, why didn't someone think of these
 before? Or, if someone did, why didn't they catch on?

 They have been thought of before.
See number 11 here:

http://www.blackbirdsf.org/rebour/images/1949.10.3.jpg

and number 6 and 8 here:

http://www.blackbirdsf.org/rebour/images/1951.11.4.jpg

I cant say why they never caught on.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] DiagaBreeze

2011-06-16 Thread Jason Hartman

Joe Breeze is a pretty smart guy and after the first ten bikes
he realized that the extra tubes were unnecessary.
He switched to oversize tubing and never looked back.
I think I read this in The Birth of Dirt by Frank Berto,
but it may have been from somewhere else.
There's more good Breezer info here:

http://mombat.org/Breezer.htm

Jay Hartman



On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 7:22 PM, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:

 A previous discussion on the diagatube Bombadil mentioned the Breezer,
 and I ran across some better recent photos. I'm looking at my own new
 Bombadil as I write this, and comparing the two I think the Rivendell
 looks much more substantial, refined and just plain beautiful, not
 that the B'zer is bad at all.  I'm a few parts from the final build,
 and will have three cockpits to choose from: Albatross, Bullmoose and
 Noodle. I may set all three up with quick-connectors and have the
 option to swap at will. Anyway, here's the DiagaBreeze:

 http://tinyurl.com/4xh7af9

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Re: [RBW] Anything look odd on this Ram?

2011-05-20 Thread Jason Hartman

No wonder they did not like it.
That is a terrible set up and I can't imagine anyone could be comfortable
riding it as is.

If anyone is interested, I would be happy to sell my Rambouillet set up
with a pile of mismatched parts for the same $1200

Jay Hartman


On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 1:51 PM, Daniel aframaf...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've been looking at look at this Ram on Craigslist:
 http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/bik/2388442830.html

 The cable routing, handlebars and tape are all bugging me, but I'm on
 the fence about going to see it anyway.

 What do y'all think?

 Daniel

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Re: [RBW] Follow up re WTB: 58 cm Rambouillet

2011-04-17 Thread Jason Hartman

On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 11:31 AM, Michael Williams 
mkernanwilli...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Tim, I have a 59 Romulus frame for sale if you have any interest. Ive
 read that its the same exact fram as the Ram, just different paint.
 Thanks, -Mike



They are similar, but not exactly the same.

Here's a chart with most of the differences:

http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20040225124308/http://rivbike.com/html/bikes_romulus_16.html


Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: (Tall Riders) Rando Bags

2011-03-27 Thread Jason Hartman

Tom

I'm sure you have put a lot of thought into your design.
Why do you make the stem attachment part out of two
pieces rather than one?
Berthoud makes theirs that way because they have to be adjustable
to fit on any bike, but yours are custom and made to order for a specific
bike.

Jay Hartman


On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 12:03 PM, TomM tmatc...@yahoo.com wrote:



 On Mar 25, 10:09 pm, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
  Trouble is I don't think they make rando bags tall enough to reach the
  Decaleur. I'm measuring about 15 inches from top of rack to bottom of
  handlebars.
 

 No problem  just design the decaleur to reach the bag!

 For a traditional Nitto stem
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/34156114@N05/4858599135/

 Or, for a threadless stem with a 4-bolt faceplate
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/34156114@N05/4858599141/

 Modular design allows for the custom fit that you need now, and the
 interchangeable span element is useful if your needs change.
 Decaleurs currently are available in conjunction with a custom front
 rack.

 Cheers,
 Tom
 http://www.tommatchakcycles.blogspot.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-18 Thread Jason Hartman

On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 11:28 PM, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I don't know if it's solely about the over locknut dimension.
 Except for most Shimano cassette hubs, all other cassette hubs also
 have the right side bearings (that supports the hub body) very close
 to the centerline of the axle.

 Shimano has a patent on attaching the hub body to the freehub and
 putting the right side bearing on the right side of the freehub
 itself, thus transferring the load as far outboard as possible.  The
 other manufacturers (Campagnolo, Mavic, to name but two) have
 essentially the freewheel hub design, except in place of an
 unsupported freewheel, there is a freehub body usually supported by
 two bearings.  These two bearings only support pedaling forces and you
 can even remove the entire freehub body without impacting the ability
 of the wheel to carry load.


I thought Shimano's patent was not on the bearing placement, but on the way
the
freehub it attached to the hub shell. This is from the Bike Pro catalog:

Shimano's only patent on the freehub cassette system, isn't on the shape of
the cut-out of the interior of the cogs, it's on how the freehub body, (the
ratcheting carrier that the cogs slide on), is fastened to the hub shell.
Shimano's uses a steel bolt built on a steel tube, that has a 14mm by 1mm
thread pitch. The inner diameter of the bolt is 10.5mm which permits the
10mm diameter rear axle to pass through it. The Shimano steel bolt has a
10mm hex fitting in its interior, so that with the axle removed, a 10mm hex
wrench turned counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise) will remove it

Since other manufacturers could not bolt the hub and freehub together,
they were forced to add more bearings in the middle.
In any case, Shimano has been making rear hubs like this since
the early 80's so the patent has surely expired by now.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-17 Thread Jason Hartman

On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 7:25 AM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.comwrote:

 Wow, that's great.I love the adjustable spacing too-  to me that
 gives it so much extra value for the $$, since it would be that much
 easier to swap among bikes.


If it's already built into a wheel then you would have to re-dish
every time the spacing is changed.

It

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-17 Thread Jason Hartman

On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Jason Hartman rjasonhart...@gmail.comwrote:



 On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 7:25 AM, newenglandbike 
 matthiasbe...@gmail.comwrote:

 Wow, that's great.I love the adjustable spacing too-  to me that
 gives it so much extra value for the $$, since it would be that much
 easier to swap among bikes.


 If it's already built into a wheel then you would have to re-dish
 every time the spacing is changed.

 It

Sorry, I hit send too soon.

It's not as easy as putting on new endcaps, popping on the the bike
and going for a ride.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-17 Thread Jason Hartman

Chainline is not really the problem.
It's keeping the rim centered between the dropouts and in plane with front wheel

Jay hartman

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 17, 2011, at 10:17 AM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, if you are especially assiduous about your chainline.for me
 it would be relatively easy to go from say 121 to 126 with an
 adjustment of the derailers.
 
 
 
 On Feb 17, 9:45 am, Jason Hartman rjasonhart...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Jason Hartman 
 rjasonhart...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 
 
 On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 7:25 AM, newenglandbike 
 matthiasbe...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 Wow, that's great.I love the adjustable spacing too-  to me that
 gives it so much extra value for the $$, since it would be that much
 easier to swap among bikes.
 
 If it's already built into a wheel then you would have to re-dish
 every time the spacing is changed.
 
 It
 
 Sorry, I hit send too soon.
 
 It's not as easy as putting on new endcaps, popping on the the bike
 and going for a ride.
 
 Jay Hartman
 
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Re: [RBW] Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-13 Thread Jason Hartman

Have you tried flushing the non working freewheels with solvent?

It's pretty common for freewheels and even freehubs to stop
working when they get really cold.  The grease solidifies and
keeps the pawls from catching.

Jay Hartman

On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:45 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean 
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:

 Hello, all!

 Does anyone have any experience using the Shimanopore freewheel on a
 Phil Wood IRD 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
 using the Shimanopore freewheel with a normal (i.e. non-IRD) 7-
 speed freewheel hub?

 I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
 first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
 fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
 (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
 next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
 starting to freeze (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
 within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.

 It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
 *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
 related.

 If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
 be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
 like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
 inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
 I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.

 Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

2011-01-09 Thread Jason Hartman

It's not the customer's fault if the saddle breaks or bends when
being pushed back as far as it will go. If S-A does not want anyone
doing it, they should make the adjustable part of the rails shorter.

Jay Hartman


On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 12:49 AM, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Mike,

 The S-A can indeed be mounted pretty far back, but the mfg warns
 against it:

 Bent Frame Wire - A small number of saddles have been replaced in the
 past two years due to frame wire bending during a ride. These first
 happened exclusively with mountain bike riders doing extreme riding.
 The majority of the frames that bent were using Thompson seat posts,
 and others like them with the rail clamp centered over the top of the
 seat post tube, and on seat posts with very short clamps. Many who
 managed to bend rails also had their saddle set back as far as it will
 go. The riders have been men and women of various weights on Standard
  Clydesdale models. The population of damaged saddles is so very
 small we are at a loss to identify a cause. Engineers examine
 offending saddles as they are returned. We replace these saddles with
 the caveat that the rider use a seat post with longer section clamp
 and more setback in the clamp. Anyone riding a saddle set back as far
 as it will go on our rails is likely on a poorly fitting bike frame.
 If your frame fits you appropriately, if the handlebars are properly
 positioned (not too far away and too far down as is too common), and
 if you have a well engineered seat post, your saddle will be
 positioned in the middle of the rails. See the Seat Post section in
 our Saddle  Handlebar Adjustment Procedure pamphlet that comes with
 each saddle.

 They aren't kidding.  Ask how I know...

 Bill

 On Jan 8, 7:06 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
  Also, an issue in my saddle selection is fore-aft adjustment. I wanted
  to try the Selle An-Atomica because it seems it can mounted much
  further back than a B.17, which I need on the bike it is for that has
  a too-short top tube. I would rather have the problem solved by a
  saddle than another $150 lugged nitto wayback post. How do the rails
  on the Berthoud compare with a B.17 and S.A?
 
  On Jan 8, 9:40 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
   I just bought a Selle An-Atomica LD Clydesdale saddle, mainly because
   it was on sale for $133 and I'm intrigued by the design and that it's
   MUSA. I'm wondering if I may have made a mistake by choosing this
   saddle over the Berthoud, which I considered but deemed not worthy of
   the higher cost.
 
   I've been riding a B.17 for about 3000 miles so far and it seems to be
   in real good shape and I am very comfortable on a B.17, but I'm
   wondering if there is something better. My primary concerns are a ride
   that is of maximum comfort, and I also want outstanding durability.
   Can any Selle An-Atomica users vouch for it's longevity, and can
   anyone compare the two (Berthoud  S.A)?
 
   Although the B.17 has served me well so far, I am a little worried
   about the longevity with a post-acquisition saddle, and I'm also
   generally always looking for gear improvements. Is the verdict that
   the Gilles Berthoud is the best bang for the buck, despite the higher
   cost?
 
   Also, my riding is always with the handlebars a few centimeters higher
   than the saddle.
 
   On Jan 8, 2:27 pm, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote:
 
Hey Rene. I just got mine in. Here's a brief visual comparison of the
saddle vis-a-vis a B-17 Champion Special:
 
   http://tinyurl.com/23eyb8o
 
I've been slowly accumulating parts to upgrade my distance bike. The
Aspin will replace a Selle An-Atomica, which will go to my
 saddle-less
camping/utility bike. I had been switching my B-17S between my
commuter (the Quickbeam) and the utility bike.
 
Best,
Lee
 
On Jan 7, 3:47 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Thanks for all the responses. I'm ordering one tonight to try it. I
 like the B17 except for its nose up position to prevent sliding
 forward. Always thought it should be flatter.
 
 Seems like the Berthoud Touring might make me completely happy.
 
 René
 
 Sent from my iPhone 4
 
 On Jan 7, 2011, at 1:54 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 2:50 PM, Kelly Sleeper 
 tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Only reason I wouldn't try a 200 dollar saddle is if I can't
 return it.   It
  looks to me to be a very well made comfortable saddle that has a
 benefit if
  you buy thier saddle bags too.
 
  I would also out of desperation try it if I didn't have
 comfortable saddles
  now.
 
  wallbike.com
 
  6month unconditional return guarantee.
 
  -sv
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

2011-01-09 Thread Jason Hartman

It's a problem with the saddle's design.
If they don't want it pushed that far back, then they should
make it so it does not go that far back.

Say I came up with some new big water bottle that still fit
in a regular cage, but could hold a gallon of water.
Then I sold a bunch of them and some of them cracked
and leaked when filled to capacity.

Would it then be OK to keep selling the bottles as long as I
sent a disclaimer saying It says one gallon, but it's really
only good for three quarts. Furthermore, if you need more than
three quarts, then maybe you should examine your whole water
carrying system?

Jay Hartman

On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 4:58 PM, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:

No Bomba in my stable!

It didn't take anything extreme, just having the saddle too far back,
a seatpost clamp that didn't support the rails properly (an old
American Classic) and my 180 lb body were enough to bend the rails.
As I said, I bent them back and I still ride the saddle, but with a
different post and a less extreme position.

Jason,

If the mfg. says don't do this and you do anyway, don't you own some
responsibility for the results?

Bill

On Jan 9, 9:33 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
wrote:
On Jan 8, 9:49 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:

Bent Frame Wire - A small number of saddles have been replaced in the
past two years due to frame wire bending during a ride. These first
happened exclusively with mountain bike riders doing extreme riding.
...
They aren't kidding. Ask how I know...

Hucking your Bombadil?

Philip

Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: is this confusing or am i missing something? Waterford Hillbornes?

2010-05-06 Thread Jason Hartman

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 1:46 AM, happyriding happyrid...@yahoo.com wrote:

 On May 5, 9:42 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'm glad I got a 56 with the single tt. I can see any reason for two,
  neither looks nor durability. Odd.
 

 Maybe not on the 56, but as frames get larger they become more
 susceptible to shimmy.  The 60 and above could be shimmy machines in
 the right conditions.  And if you've ever experienced high speed
 shimmy, you will readily consider purchasing a triple top tube bike if
 it's offered.  Hey, a Triple-pillar for 2011?


There are lots of bikes over 60cm that don't shimmy.
If it's a problem, it can be fixed by making the top tube
and or down tube thicker or larger in diameter.
For years the Atlantis was sold as a stout touring bike,
and it never had two top tubes. At one point, they even made
it as big as 68cm!

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Pink Mixte Le tour Project..

2010-04-23 Thread Jason Hartman

You might be able to file the hole for the centerbolt to allow for some
vertical adjustment. Kind of like these Mafacs:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54878...@n00/4544396102/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54878...@n00/4543765097/

If you do that in combination with filing the brake shoe slots,
you might just make it.

You could also fabricate some sort of drop bolt.

Good luck.

Jay

On Fri, Apr 23, 2010 at 1:01 AM, manueljohnacosta
manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com wrote:

I was lucky to get in possession of a 49cm Le Tour Mixte. I figured
since my girlfriend just recently got a new job, new place, graduated
from college and her birthday was coming up, I figured I should get
her something big. Pink is her favorite color and she enjoys biking.
So I set off building her a bike. Getting most of the parts together I
find myself with a few issues.
1. Big issue the brakes seem like they are only a few centimeters off.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/4545155110/in/set-72157623789349209/

2. The rear brake is a center-pull and needs a longer straddle cable
to clear the seat tube.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/4544523125/in/set-72157623789349209/

So with the first issue I go to the ROB group for some answers. Any
ideas of making this work? It's SOOO close to fitting. Or should I
just bite the bullet and look for brakes that fit?

and about the second issue. Anyone have any ideas and where I can find
one? I might check out my local place, Cycle of Change, but never
guaranteed that I can find the part there. Thanks in advance!
Hopefully I can get this worked out.

-Manny Bikes aren't always easy Acosta

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Re: [RBW] Adding grommet holes to steel bikes question

2010-03-30 Thread Jason Hartman

On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 12:46 PM, Christopher Paul zdree...@gmail.comwrote:

 Greetings 2 all,

 Is it ok to have front rack holes drilled into a steel fork ?  Also,
 is it ok to drill holes for a water bottle cage on the bottom of a
 steel down tube for a 3rd water bottle?

 any thoughts on this will be appreciated!


 I have heard of people using rivnuts for water bottle bosses.

http://www.aimfasteners.com/about_rivnut.html

The advantage is that no repainting is needed.
The disadvantage is sometimes they come loose.

I would be very leery of drilling any hole in a fork.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bonkers

2010-03-30 Thread Jason Hartman

On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 7:23 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:

 If it goes for $3K or so, and to someone who has always wanted one and now
 has the money to buy it, *and will ride it*, hey, nothing wrong with
 that.  What a great bike out of the box to ride everywhere!  But if it's
 some collector who is going to put it in the Fancy  Rare Bicycle Room
 which adjoins the Fancy and Rare Motorcycle room, adjoining the Fancy and
 Rare Warhol room... well, thanks for keeping the economy going and all, but
 you suck.

 If I had to guess, I would say it is going to get used.
Is it was just for admiring or show then most collectors
would rather have a bike with original components.
The unique most controversial part of the XO-1 was the
moustache handlebars and this bike does not even have them.


Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: Racer M Alive!

2010-03-27 Thread Jason Hartman

On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 2:43 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  If I remember it right, the Rodeo is built to the lightest configuration
 as
  Grant the conservative would allow it. Thus, to save weight, even
 though
  minimal but at least weight-saving, there will be no cantis and no DT
 studs.
  Much like the racer road bikes in carbon, aluminum and titanium.

 You have a point.  Although my counter is that the Racer is a modern
 (and lighter) version of the Mafac Competition, a brake that was on
 several Tour de France winners in the 1980s.


I don't think you can get much lighter than the Mafacs.
I just weighed a complete front Mafac racer without pads and it was 142 g.
I then made them braze-on ready by removing the center bolt back plate
and they weighed only 86g.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: Salsa Vaya aesthetics

2010-02-09 Thread Jason Hartman

On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 6:23 PM, Jon Grant jgr...@papagrant.com wrote:

 Mike wrote:

 Be sure to checkout Salsa's new Vaya model. Kinda like version of a SH/
 AHH, although a little more tour-worthy.

 ---

 Meh. Another straight fork. I understand that it works as well and takes
 less effort and $$ than a curved one, but it just looks so graceless to my
 eye. Grant Petersen¹s designs have refined my notions about bike beauty --
 especially forks. I have a 25-year-old Trek on the wall I used to think was
 pretty; now all I see is the abrupt kink midway down the fork that passes
 for a bend.


That being said, I don't think the Sam H fork bend is anywhere close to as
nice
as an Atlantis. I think the Betty Foy/Yves Gomez forks are even worse.

In a way, I prefer the Salsa frames and forks. They are simple, clean
looking, and
relatively inexpensive.

I think that the changes that Riv has made in Taiwan have really compromised
their looks.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Riv Custom

2010-01-17 Thread Jason Hartman

On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 1:51 PM, Brad Gantt brdg...@gmail.com wrote:

Just updated Flikr with a couple of shots Mark took of the bike post-
build. Just need to add pedals, bags, cages and I'm in business!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/17053...@n02/sets/72157623066924065/

I'm surprised Rivendell does not build bikes with crossed shifter cables.
It reduces friction, lets you run shorter cables, and cuts down on head tube
rub.
Sheldon Brown's description is below.

Jay Hartman

Criss-Cross Cables Most bicycles with handlebar-mounted shifters run the
rear cable on the right, the front on the left. This causes some awkwardness
in routing the length of housing from the shift lever to the frame stops.
Due to the need to allow these housings to be long enough to permit the bars
to be turned all the way back and forth, the housings often wind up making a
reverse bend--for instance, the rear will go from the shifter, which is on
the right, swing forward and cross over past the centerline of the bicycle,
then back over to the right side of the top tube, before heading down the
down tube. These extra bends increase friction, and the fairly forcible
contact between the housing and the side of the top tube can damage the
finish.

A neat solution to this is to run the cables criss-cross style: The rear
runs from the lever, (on the right) around the top tube, and to the cable
stop on the *left* side of the down tube! The front cable crosses over
similarly from the left side of the handlebar to the right side of the down
tube.

The bare cables then cross one another under the middle of the down tube,
making an X. The cables may touch where they cross, but they will do so
very lightly, since they are both straight...the tiny bit of friction at
this crossing is more than offset by the reduction in friction in the
smoother-flowing cable housings.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wilbury F/F on ebay

2010-01-12 Thread Jason Hartman

On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 10:51 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:


 One thing that may keep the price down, at least among the Riv-(and
 Mixte) uninitiated is the lack of a stand over measurement.  There is
 a block of would be eBay bike buyers who put huge stock in stand over
 height when deciding whether or not to bid.


Ha Ha!

With a mid top tube standover of about 25 inches,
that bike should be perfectly sized for a someone
around ten years old!

Jay Hartman
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Re: [RBW] Re: All-Rounder Deal - Anyone dig 26 here?

2010-01-04 Thread Jason Hartman

On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 12:51 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



 The great gap in 559 and 571 tires is in the high quality 25-30 mm range.
 Will someone please, puh-lze make a Grand Bois in a 559X28?

 If you want them that badly, why don't you have them made.
A tire mold from Panaracer costs about $15,000
Figure in set up costs and the cost for the tire materials
and you could have 500 tires for about $25,000.

You will then have a lifetime supply of your perfect tire,
and if they are as great as you say, people will line up
at your door to buy them.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: All-Rounder Deal - Anyone dig 26 here?

2010-01-04 Thread Jason Hartman

On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 9:45 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



 On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 6:50 PM, beth h periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I love -- no, I ADORE -- the 26/559 wheel size and I am sure I'm not
 alone. That is why I worried when I heard that the Atlantis might go
 away. The Atlantis is an absolute wet dream of a 559-dedicated bike
 and it should live forever. I hope it will.

 Beth: is there any way someone could come up with a real, Grand Bois
 quality 28 mm tire?

 I sent a message earlier today saying exactly what it would take for such a
tire to happen.
It's not magic.
Rivendell has a bunch of different tire models.
Grand Bois is run by one person.
It just takes some money and time.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] Re: F.S. 56.5 Waterford built All Rounder $1200

2009-12-23 Thread Jason Hartman

On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 3:21 PM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.comwrote:

 I remember reading somewhere that the current Rivendell frames (that
 are built at Waterford) use a combination of Reynolds 725 and True
 Temper OX platinum tubing.   I don't know about earlier frames like
 the All-rounder though.



All of the info is in the early Riv Readers.
Unfortunately, I don't have the time to look it up right now.
Everything also used to be at the wayback machine, but it only
shows from 2002 onward  for Rivbike.com.

Jay Hartman

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Re: [RBW] WAS: AT 0154 NOW: Sugino AT spindle length

2009-12-10 Thread Jason Hartman

On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 9:54 AM, Jon Grant jgr...@papagrant.com wrote:

  Cycletex asked:

 What spindle length are you looking for and are you going by the Sheldon
 Brown suggestions for the AT?

 ---

 I put a Sugino AT on an old Schwinn World Voyageur last summer. The longest
 BB I could find was 122.5, and I had to dent the chainstay to clear the
 granny ring. (A neighbor walked over and said, “Wow. I’ve seen you do a lot
 of things to bikes, but I’ve never seen you use a hammer. Bad day?”)

 A 125 or maybe even a 127 would’ve worked better, I think.


Since this question comes up from time to time, I just measured the OE
bottom bracket for Sugino AT triple cranks.
It's 125mm with a 9mm driveside offset.

Jay Hartman

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[RBW] Re: The Great Debate: Green versus Orange Sam Hillborne

2009-10-09 Thread Jason Hartman

Like Steve Palincsar said, it comes down to semantics.
This whole thread has come across a lot snarkier than I have meant it to,
but certain things just make me cringe.
Like when people write breaks when they mean brakes.
Or peddle when they mean pedal.
Or Peterson when they mean Petersen.

This article made me laugh at myself

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/04/magazine/04FOB-onlanguage-t.html

Jay




On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 10:44 AM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.comwrote:


 Hey, I didn't make up the term lugged crown fork or anything;   I've
 just seen/heard it so many times, can't remember not knowing what it
 was.


 On Oct 9, 10:17 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  On Fri, 2009-10-09 at 10:05 -0400, Jason Hartman wrote:
 
   On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 8:32 AM, newenglandbike
   matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   You've never seen a lugged crown fork?Are you new to
   bicycling?
 
   If you look here:
 
  http://www.henryjames.com/productlug.html
 
  I looked there and round his Custom Series Fork Crown
 http://www.henryjames.com/gifolder/crown.gif
 
  It's called a crown, not a lug.
 
 
 
   and here:
 
  http://www.ceeway.com/NEWPARTSPAGES/Cast%20Fork%20Crowns..htm
 
  Yes, there's an entire page of them.
 
   you will not find a lugged crown or lugged fork or even a lugged fork
   crown.
 
  Semantic difficulties, I'm afraid.  Every single one of those fork
  crowns could be construed as a lugged fork.  The alternative to a
  crown is a unicrown design that is nothing more than two fork blades
  with bent ends that attach directly to the steerer, eliminating a
  separate crown.
 


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[RBW] Re: The Great Debate: Green versus Orange Sam Hillborne

2009-09-30 Thread Jason Hartman

Rene

I'm not sure what you are asking.
I have never seen a fork with a lug.

I am referring to the head lugs.
The top one has points that curve around to the front
and a window in the point.
The bottom lug has neither.

Jay





On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 8:54 PM, Rene Valbuena valbu...@ix.netcom.comwrote:

  Hi Jay,



 Are you referring to the lugs used on the fork or on the head tube?



 Rene



 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Jason Hartman
 *Sent:* Tuesday, September 29, 2009 5:24 PM
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: The Great Debate: Green versus Orange Sam Hillborne



 I never really gave these frames a close look before.
 The colors are fine, but why the different lugs?
 If you are going to go through all the trouble involved
 with having a lugged frame made in Taiwan, the least
 you could do is specify lugs that match.

 Jay Hartman

 On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles 
 renaissancebicyc...@gmail.com wrote:


 We thought it might be fun to fan the flames a little bit, so we took
 some side-by-side photos:

 http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/?album=7gallery=21

 Obviously the Green is a popular, judging by how quickly Rivendell
 sold out of a few sizes.  But lately, our customers are after the
 Orange.

 My vote is for the Green, but then again it is much closer to my
 personal color palette my wife calls Earth Monotone.

 Cheers,

 Bryan

 [Disclaimer:  As always, we try to be true to the actual color of the
 frame, but between studio lighting, digital camera, iPhotoshop-ing,
 and monitor calibration, your mileage may vary.]




 


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[RBW] Re: The Great Debate: Green versus Orange Sam Hillborne

2009-09-30 Thread Jason Hartman

On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 1:28 PM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:


 on 9/30/09 6:17 AM, Jason Hartman at rjasonhart...@gmail.com wrote:

  I'm not sure what you are asking.
  I have never seen a fork with a lug.

 Bridgestone MB's had fork tip lugs -
 http://tinyurl.com/forklug

 Those are socket style dropouts-
http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/DROPOUT-FRONT-SOCKET-STYLE.html

They are by some bike makers as a stylistic choice
and by others as a labor saving device.

Jay

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[RBW] Re: The Great Debate: Green versus Orange Sam Hillborne

2009-09-29 Thread Jason Hartman

I never really gave these frames a close look before.
The colors are fine, but why the different lugs?
If you are going to go through all the trouble involved
with having a lugged frame made in Taiwan, the least
you could do is specify lugs that match.

Jay Hartman

On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 7:15 PM, Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles 
renaissancebicyc...@gmail.com wrote:


 We thought it might be fun to fan the flames a little bit, so we took
 some side-by-side photos:

 http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/gallery/?album=7gallery=21

 Obviously the Green is a popular, judging by how quickly Rivendell
 sold out of a few sizes.  But lately, our customers are after the
 Orange.

 My vote is for the Green, but then again it is much closer to my
 personal color palette my wife calls Earth Monotone.

 Cheers,

 Bryan

 [Disclaimer:  As always, we try to be true to the actual color of the
 frame, but between studio lighting, digital camera, iPhotoshop-ing,
 and monitor calibration, your mileage may vary.]
 


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