Re: [RBW] Salt Lake City Cycling Question

[Jay Fichialos]

Goat heads are not a major issue in Salt Lake in my experience riding along
the Wasatch front. Welcome to Utah! Fun riding, lots of climbing
opportunities :)

Jay in Pleasant Grove

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 7:43 AM Brady Smith  wrote:

> Looks like the family and I are relocating to Salt Lake City. Question for
> fellow Utah listers: How big of a problem are goat heads? I was on the
> verge of ordering a new dynamo wheel a few months ago but held off in case
> going fully tubeless winds up making more sense. In New Jersey, where we
> have glass but not thorns, I've been running Rene Herse tires in 700x44
> with tubes and had no flat issues. I gather that this setup is not going to
> serve me especially well out west. Do I put sealant in my tubes? Go fully
> tubeless? Or would something like the Soma Shikoro be enough as long as I'm
> riding mostly road/gravel?
>
> Best,
>
> Brady in NJ/soon to be Utah
>
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Re: [RBW] Crowd sourcing ideas for vintage parts for a new randonneuring rig (semi sort of WTB)

[Jay Fichialos]

Hey, that's a lot like my Jack Taylor rando bike!



This is a picture of it when it was first built, since then I've put 10k+
miles on it.

With regards the Lesli's question, on the original build I put some new at
the time Sram Red front and rear derailleurs on it and a 9 speed cassette,
the Red rear worked well with medium range gearing, but with the mountains
passes I like to climb in Utah I ended up switching the rear derailleur to
a Sram XX and a 11-32 cassette. Both set-ups work great with down tube
shifting. Crank is Rene Herse 48/36. (Have a 32 ring I've thought about
putting on the front, but have been ok with the 36 so far).

Wear and tear has been, 2 sets of tires, replaced one broken fender bridge
on the back and replaced one front rack. Both the bridge and rack developed
fatigue cracks.
Wouldn't hesitate to hop on it and ride across the country.

Enjoying the ride!

-Jay Fichialos

On Sun, Jul 23, 2017 at 3:27 PM, Steve Palincsar <palin...@his.com> wrote:

>
>
> On 07/23/2017 04:22 PM, Lesli Larson wrote:
>
> Patrick-
>
> As always - thanks for your wisdom. I'm definitely looking for functional
> vintage over spendy pretty bits.
>
> The bike will be for serious rando so durability is an issue. I just don't
> like how most new/tech parts look so I'm always erring on side of shopping
> from the past where I can secure something that will look nice and still
> perform a job.
>
> I'm very intersted in Shimanon derailleurs that you mention. I'm just not
> sure which vintage to target.
>
>
> It's hard to go wrong with any of the Deore XT / XTR Shimano MTBs of the 8
> or 9 speed eras, except for "Rapid Rise".  They all work wonderfully.   And
> they index really well, too.   Hard for me to accept that they're "vintage"
> technology and I don't consider them so.
>
> Friction shifting Hyperglide is all very well and good, and except for the
> lack of auditory feedback and a relentless desire to ghost shift built into
> its basic nature - in many ways better than friction shifting ever was back
> in the 1970s - but for a serious randonneur it's hard for me to see the
> point.  Indexing just plain works better -- at least setups with bar end
> shifters and 8 or 9 speed wide range cassettes -- and you don't have to
> fuss over it or concentrate very hard on it to make it work well.
>
> It's one thing to set up a bike for Eroica-esque historical re-enactment,
> it's a whole different thing to set a bike up for randonneuring.  I'm sure
> nobody would suggest "vintage" bottle generators and Jos incandescent
> lights for real honest to god brevets; as far as I'm concerned it's the
> same for drivetrains.
>
> Here's my latest (and also my oldest).  The frame happens to be from
> 1963.  The drive train is as contemporary-functional as it gets: XTR M900
> crank & rear derailleur, circa 2002 9 speed XT front derailleur (although
> just about anything including the Campagnolo Nuovo Record I took off my
> Paramount back in 1975 would probably work just as well), NOS 8 speed
> Shimano bar end shifters and a customized 12-32 8 speed Sunrace cassette I
> turned into a 13-32.   The range and spacing suit this frame very well,
> better I think than a 9 speed of the same range would do.
>
>
>
> The front wheel came off my VO Randonneur when thanks to Bosch's
> settlement on the VW Diesel Emissions Scandal I upgraded the front wheel to
> the lastest Son Delux Widebody, and the brakes are Mafac Racers Igor worked
> over and made as new.  The brake levers are Dia Compe aero levers I got
> somewhere and didn't even remember I had, probably came on my Alex Moulton
> AM.   I've got the parts but haven't finished the lighting yet - still
> recovering from the epic struggle of putting fenders on this bike.
>
>
>
> I'm current running friction on my bike with a TA crank and XTR rear. Not
> sure about the front derailleur.
>
> This bike has a compact double with a wide cluster in the back - requiring
> medium/long cage rd.
>
> I use the Tektro levers with the quick release button. I'd like to buy
> vintage aero levers if i can find one with the equivalent reach.
>
> I'm also looking for a lightweight handlebar that works for smaller hands.
> I use an on one midge bars which I like because of the short reach and wide
> top part. Most of the Nitto offerings are just too large/wide.  I need
> something with a shallow drop.
>
> Not sure if anyone is making lightweight classic looking parts (ala Nitto)
> for smaller/shorter cyclists (and women).
>
>
> On Wednesday, July 19, 2017 at 3:46:39 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Leslie: It all depends what you mean by "vintage." Some "vintage" bits
>> are exorbitantly expensive

Re: [RBW] The next Velo Lumino product: rear fender reinforcement plate

[Jay Fichialos]

Eric,

I created a custom reinforcement plate for my daughters Jack Taylor using a
stock 1" aluminum strap that can be found at most local hardware stores.
You simply trace out the shape you want, cut with a hacksaw or scroll saw,
then file and and polish. I used a round file to give it a little camber on
the bottom and allow it to sit evenly on the fender, and a flat file to
taper the edges and overall thin it out. Various grits of sand paper and
Simichrome brought it to a mirror shine.

I wanted one a little longer/narrower than those available at the time, I'm
happy with how it turned out.
Takes a little time but well worth the effort.

A few images for reference:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wnbvaaqck7fw1u5/2017-03-22%2011.56.48.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwvg3m071u3j31m/2017-03-22%2011.55.29.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r7esxwncvzrxy2l/2017-03-22%2011.55.09.jpg?dl=0
https://plus.google.com/photos/111412591633365066438/album/6270196811045780369?authkey=CJXtxJeHp63RyQE

As a side note Anton does great work and I'm sure the plates he's created
are top-notch. He modernized the lights on the little Jack, and they work
fantastic!

Jay Fichialos
Pleasant Grove, Utah, USA



On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 10:57 AM, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Eric - looking at the photo I can see why you don't want the extra holes.
> But how do you keep it from shifting or turning sideways a bit from
> vibration, etc. without the bolts?  Contact cement?  Or is the
> diamond-shaped plate beveled in such a way that it conforms to the
> curvature of the fender, which keeps it in place?  If the latter, how would
> you create something like that?  Seems like you'd need a die or something
> to shape it.
>
> On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 10:24:02 AM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> The advantage is purely aesthetic-trying to replicate the original Singer
>> part. I'll look into getting a piece of an old fender somewhere.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --Eric N
>> www.CampyOnly.com
>> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
>> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>
>> On Mar 22, 2017, at 8:00 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Eric,
>>
>> I order all my stock pre-cut and drilled and then polished. I'd have to
>> do a special run of a single-hole version, and I have to order quite a few
>> to make them cost-effective.
>>
>> Aside from aesthetics, what is the practical advantage, if any, to having
>> as single hole? I would think it would act less as a strain relief in this
>> way. It would still "cradle" the fender, but I would imagine its overall
>> net benefit is less.
>>
>> If you're good with tin-snips and have a spare fender you can use as a
>> donor, you could cut a few out and polish them.
>>
>> Anton
>> velolumino.com
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 at 12:22:13 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>
>>> Anton:
>>>
>>> I wonder if you can make one of these for me with just the center hole,
>>> to match the reinforcement on my Singer:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>>>
>>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 7:19 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Velo Lumino is expanding into the "fender installation widget" space.
>>> The first of several widgets in this category is a reinforcement plate
>>> inspired by the old French constructeurs. It reduces fender stress fatigue
>>> at a common failure location by reducing localized stress risers. And it
>>> looks damn fine while doing it. Photo below is on a VO Zeppelin 650B
>>> fender. The plate is thin enough (0.64mm) that is doesn't noticeably alter
>>> the fender line of existing fender installations, and its shape can be
>>> tweaked by hand to follow different fender contours.
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-La6n04tU9PY/Vu1dZcSRDUI/CYw/wtnHBdjvJtUzT73k-6V4Jn5Kk4Yi7kVyw/s1600/IMG_0639.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ksl6ImcB3Hk/Vu1ddY3cLHI/CY0/rmOYxvFRkag4kTlx9uw3JB-Pc_nXJiG9g/s1600/IMG_0637.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>> It's cut from aluminum sheet stock using water jet technology. It's then
>>> pressed onto a curved form to create a nominal fender cross-section radius
>>> and finally it's machine polished to a mirror finish. Two flat-head
>>> stainless M3 bolts with flat washers, star washers, nuts and a leather
>>> washer for the bridge are included in the price.
>>>
>>>
>

Re: [RBW] Re: Mittens for winter riding

[Jay Fichialos]

I've been using Barr Mitts for a few winters now and they're great.
http://www.barmitts.com

Recently I finished modifying them to work with bar end shifters. Toasty
warm and I can wear fingerless gloves year round.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/quadmod/5179116140/

Just a happy customer,

-Jay Fichialos




On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 7:08 AM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 Am also happy with the Wiggy gloves that Rivendell sells.  But after
 seeing Dan's link, might have to buy some of those choppers.

 Will be using them today on the first snow ride of the season.  Coming
 down pretty good right now.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Nov 12, 11:02 pm, mike mike.rosen...@gmail.com wrote:
  It's nothing like you describe, but when it's cold here, my fingers
  have been happiest in the sort of military gloves that Riv has sold a
  couple of times in the recent past.  Each finger is in its own little
  sleeping bag and the outer nylon layer is tight enough to keep out the
  wind.  Looks like they're not currently on the 'clothing' page.
  Someone at work compared them to snowmobile gloves.
 
  On Nov 12, 2:49 pm, james meine...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
   Hey all,
 
   I've been enjoying my Hillborne a lot this Autumn but with Winter
   coming I'm thinking about my hands.  Last Winter they got cold often
   and I think I need some mittens.  My ideal would be all natural
   materials--leather outer and wool or rabbit liner.  Even better would
   be if it was a leather mitten that also had a pull away finger cover
   for if the hands get hot.  Has anyone seen something like this?  I've
   been scouring the web with no luck.  Anyone seen anything like this or
   use them?
 
   james- Hide quoted text -
 
  - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Swift Industries Panniers

[Jay Fichialos]

I have this set of panniers, they're simple and very well built. The
waterproofing is great, in addition to the waxed canvas mine are also lined
with another rubber coated fabric.
The Arkel attachments are bombproof.

My one complaint is with the zippered top section. I like to put small items
in the flap pocket, wallet, keys, phone etc. Unfortunately the zipper is on
the outer edge (away from the bike), and if the pannier isn't very full the
top section flaps over and puts the zipper at the bottom of the pocket. On
more than one occasion I've gone to open the pocket only to have everything
pour out onto the ground. I've been meaning to email Swift to see if I could
send mine back to have the flap turned around so the zipper opens at the top
of the pocket rather than the bottom.

-Jay Fichialos

On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 11:14 AM, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 It was a recent post by another list member that coaxed me over to
 Swift Industries where I found the Mini- panniers in waxed canvas.  I
 really like the style and the versatile design.  Does anyone else on
 this list have any first-hand experience or knowledge about these
 products, particularly the waxed canvas models?  Any other comments
 also appreciated.  Here's the link:

 http://swiftindustries.wordpress.com/choose-your-colors/new-mini-pannier/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rim / Spoke Cracks... Should I be concerned?

[Jay Fichialos]

I'm not going to disagree that new rims are in order. But I will say that I
found a couple similar cracks on my commuter (Velocity/Synergy) in the Fall
and I've been riding them all winter with loaded panniers and they're still
holding strong. It's on the to do list though...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/quadmod/4127209212/

Jay Fichialos



On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 11:26 PM, RoadieRyan rya...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Rick new rim!  you have got to protect Yeduda Moon comic strips' most
 valuable asset.YOU

 Seriously ride safe

 On Mar 27, 9:11 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
  on 3/27/10 12:34 PM, Rick Smith at rick_sm...@sulfurstar.com wrote:
 
   Discovered these while cleaning the Saluki's rims today:
 
  http://m.flickr.com/?done=1id=4468086048magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce.
 ..
   2dda07f87title=Spoke+crackdescription=#/photos/74396...@n00
 /4468088476/
 
  http://m.flickr.com/?done=1id=4468086048magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce.
 ..
   2dda07f87title=Spoke+crackdescription=#/photos/74396...@n00
 /4467312843/
 
  http://m.flickr.com/?done=1id=4468086048magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce.
 ..
   2dda07f87title=Spoke+crackdescription=#/photos/74396...@n00
 /4468086048/
 
   Is it beausage or time to replace the rims?
 
  Cracks are not beausage.
 
  New rim time.
 
  - Jim
 
  --
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net
 
  Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
  Current Classics - Cross Bikes
  Singlespeed - Working Bikes
 
  Your Photos are needed! -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines
 
  Steel's what you want for a messenger bike.  Weight. Big basket up
 front.
  Not cardboard with some crazy aramid shit wrapped around it, weighs about
 as
  much as a sandwich.
  -- William Gibson, Virtual Light

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