[RBW] Re: WTB - Smallish panniers for front rack

2021-01-27 Thread John Casteen
I've got a Mark's Hub Area rack and bags I'd sell to someone who'd use them 
more than I do.  If that solution would work for you, let me know and I'll 
send photos and figure out a price.

John

On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 1:31:35 PM UTC-5 diekaiser wrote:

> Not sure exactly what I want but something "smallish" in the front pannier 
> department. I'd also be interested in hearing others' recommendations! I 
> saw a set of the Ruthworks panniers not-so-long ago and they looked really 
> nice but I could also roll with something as simple as Jandd.
>
> Let me know if you have anything or, if you want to post some photos of 
> your own setups I'd be interested in the inspiration. 
>
> I'm currently running a Nitto 34f front rack but recently saw a  mark's 
> hub area rack on CL that I unfortunately missed out on. If I did stumble 
> across another I would likely be interested in that setup as well.
>
> Thanks all!
>
>  
>

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[RBW] WTB: Suntour front derailleur double

2020-08-19 Thread John Casteen
I may have it.  What's your down tube diameter?

John

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[RBW] Organized Rides 2020

2020-06-20 Thread John Casteen
Spring century rides near me (central Virginia) either cancelled or postponed 
to late summer.  Fall centuries either happening as scheduled or postponing 
registration to wait and see.

High-school MTB league has polled families and coaches to gauge interest.  Our 
HS team will plan to ride and train, but not sure yet about competitions.

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[RBW] Long enough frame pump for Appaloosa

2020-06-20 Thread John Casteen
We may have different Zefal pumps (I can't remember the size number of mine), 
but it fits well in my 58 cm Appaloosa.  I just went with the sizing by 
measurement and Riv recommendation and have bounced it all over the place 
without incident.  It may seem less secure than it actually is.  On the other 
hand, I would have to agree with the poster who recommended the Silca, if you 
end up needing to buy something new...

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Hub Recommendations

2020-05-12 Thread John Casteen
Replying to Teague and the original poster, I have one bike with a SON delux 
and another with a Kasai.  Haven't had any trouble with either-- dirt, rain, 
whatever.  I honestly don't know how they compare in terms of current 
generation, bearing size, or anything like that, though I've heard that the SON 
is a beast to rebuild.  The light output from the SON is steadier at low 
speeds, but that's the only difference I notice.  I went with the Kasai on 
Riv's recommendation and have been really happy with it.  

--John

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[RBW] Re: Apaloosa front derailleur clearance problem

2020-05-08 Thread John Casteen
Jason,

I can't add anything directly to the good replies already, but here's 
another data point.  I've got the same frame, crank, and derailer you're 
working on, but with a 9-speed cassette and chain.  On the small cog and 
big chainring, the trailing face of the derailer is within .5mm of the 
crank arm.  It looks like I tweaked it inboard, just slightly out of 
parallel with the chainring, in order to maintain that clearance.  Sounds 
as though others have found the setup similarly tight.

John

On Thursday, May 7, 2020 at 7:40:38 PM UTC-4, dirtp wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I recently finished building a Joe Appaloosa that I bought a 
> while back, but I didn't have time to complete it until now. This forum 
> helped me pick out the rims, in fact!
>
> I totally love the bike, but I'm having a problem I was hoping someone 
> could help me with. I built the bike with an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 
> Claris 3x8 front derailleur, and Silver triple cranks. However, when I have 
> the chain on the biggest chainring and the smallest cog, the front 
> derailleur is less than 1mm from the crank arm. When I pedal moderately 
> hard in this gear, the chain rubs on the outside of the front derailleur.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem? Is it maybe because the 8-speed chain is 
> wider than a 9-speed chain?
>
> I have another 8-speed bike with a Silver triple crankset and a Deore FD 
> and never noticed until now, but it has a similar problem with a super 
> tight clearance between the crank arm and front derailleur.
>
> Thanks very much for any help you can provide!
>
> Jason
>

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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen in Cuba [Trip/Ride Report]

2019-10-24 Thread John Casteen
A terrific report.  Thank you.  I visited Cuba last spring and planned to 
go back to ride there.  Your trip sounds like a good dream.

John

On Monday, October 21, 2019 at 4:25:08 PM UTC-4, Cameron D. wrote:
>
> I thought I'd take a moment to throw up some photos and a description of a 
> trip I did earlier this Spring. Myself and several friends flew to Cuba 
> with our bikes and spent about a week "light touring". This post has a bit 
> about the logistics of traveling in Cuba, but I'll try and focus on the 
> riding! I didn't realize until I started to write this, but I didn't take 
> *any* classic "nice profile of the bike and good scenery behind it" 
> pictures, but there are a few with the bike at least somewhat in it.
>
> Traveling to Havana
>
> We left Los Angeles, flying to Panama first, with 6 people and 6 
> haphazardly packed bikes (it was the first time flying with bikes for most 
> of us). In Havana all six of us got off of the plane... and so did three of 
> our bikes (not my Rivendell). The Havana airport is small and fairly 
> disorganized, but eventually we were able to talk to some helpful employees 
> in the baggage area. After a phone call to Panama they ensured us that 
> someone had seen several large boxes being put on the next flight to Havana 
> which would arrive in a few hours, and that those boxes were *presumably* or 
> bikes.
>
>
> 
> Carefully lined with clothing and spare parts.
>
>
> We were worried but we didn't have any recourse so we got a taxi to our 
> AirBnb/Casa Particulares -- in Cuba the government runs a system called 
> "Casa Particulares" which could be thought of as an offline AirBnb. 
> Residents can register with the government that they have a room(s) 
> available for travelers and then the government maintains an index & 
> certain standards. It's common to just arrive in a town and find a house 
> with the casa particulares symbol, but we chose to book our places through 
> AirBnb to reduce how much cash we needed to carry (no American CC in Cuba & 
> even converting cash can be inconvenient in the countryside) and to ensure 
> we'd have rooms for all of us without splitting up (no cell phones either!).
>
>
> 
> This was the backyard of where we were staying the first night. A little 
> goes a long way in Cuba.
>
> We went back to the airport a few hours later, but still no bikes had 
> arrived. We talked to people in a front office and then a back office and 
> were still being assured the bikes would arrive. We gave the airline our 
> "address" and they said they'd put the bikes on a taxi once they arrive. 
> Addresses in Cuba are more of a description of the house name & the closest 
> intersections (our taxi had stopped and asked around in order to find our 
> house), so this extra step seemed to me like just another way for our bikes 
> to get lost.
>
> Luckily that evening two more bikes arrived, leaving just one MIA. And 
> then sometime in the middle of the night a taxi delivered the last bike!
>
> All bikes arrived without any damages, except for one little issue on my 
> Hilsen. When I'd removed my seat post I hadn't re-tightened or removed the 
> collar bolt & nut. The loose nut that should be held captive in the riv 
> frame had vibrated off and disappeared (there were plenty of little 
> puncture holes in the box). We'd all brought miscellaneous spare parts and 
> one person had a nut which fit my bolt, but wasn't wide enough to be held 
> captive by the frame. I used a flat head screwdriver to kind of hold it in 
> place against the frame while tightening the bolt and it seemed to work 
> (hah).
>
> Havana to Soroa
>
> We left the next morning and within a mile my jimmied nut had proved to be 
> too loose and my seatpost dropped (I have no issue with Rivendell sizing 
> philosophy, but my Hilsen is still quite a bit too small for me so I ride 
> with my seatpost pretty extended). I tried just tightening it as I had the 
> night before, but I think I stripped the nut some or for whatever reason 
> couldn't get it to work. Of course this happened right next to a busy 
> market so plenty of people were around to watch us struggle. Luckily when I 
> looked back into the random bolts & nuts bag, this time I found exactly the 
> right size nut and the problem was solved.
>
>
> 
> Our first Cuban breakfast. Most breakfasts served by our hosts were very 
> similar, but we quickly started telling them the could omit the ham.
>
>
> 

[RBW] Re: San Diego Bike Rides

2019-10-24 Thread John Casteen
I've been there riding twice in the last couple years and had pretty good 
experiences-- mostly.  See below.

There's a pretty casual loop around Mission Bay, mostly on bike paths; you 
can park/start at Dog Beach in Ocean Beach or at the convention center 
right near Sea World, then ride on the paths that follow the shore.  The 
bike layer of Google maps shows them clearly.

If you park/start at Liberty Station, riding from Point Loma along the bay 
to downtown, between Harbor Drive and the water, is fun and pretty.  You 
can end up where the ferry goes over to Coronado Island, then ride to the 
beach.  This would be an out-and-back.

Last, and most interesting but also probably most challenging, would be 
riding the point out to Cabrillo National Monument.  Extravagant views, 
tide pools, the occasional hard climb.

Your caution about bike theft is legit.  My bike was stolen there in 
August, downtown.  Bike shop folks and a facebook group maintained for 
victims of bike theft all suggest that the problem is systemic, widespread, 
and severe.  If you want to ride downtown, or really anywhere that you'd 
leave your bikes unattended for any period of time, look online for the 
(relatively few) places that offer an indoor, secured bike lot; the transit 
station near the ballpark is one, but there are probably others.  If I had 
it to do over again, I would rent a Jump or other short-term bike for any 
ride that would require locking it to a rack out of my line of sight in San 
Diego.  I don't know how the problem compares to other cities.

Good luck, and have fun.  It's a great place to ride.

John



On Wednesday, October 23, 2019 at 12:59:41 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding 
Ding! wrote:
>
> Hi Friends, 
>
> Last year you all made great recommendations for a family bike adventure 
> and we had the best time biking The Strand. It was scenic with the ocean 
> just there, and there was lots of activity and also great lunch spots. I 
> really can’t thank you enough! 
>
> We get a holiday on Friday, so we are planning to run away from home again 
> and point our vehicle in the direction of California. We are going to hit 
> Sea World for the day on Friday but Saturday is wide open. Except for our 
> standing coffee date, of course (hoping for Bird Rock in La Jolla). I’m 
> looking online at bike routes that would be fun, but if there are any of 
> you who know a thing or two about San Diego and want to pitch your route, 
> I’d love to hear! We will want a path that takes us out of traffic (like a 
> paved path inaccessible to cars) since our two sons will be with us. Ocean 
> or nature views are our jam. 
>
> One last thing. For those of you who do not have spouses/SOs who share 
> your bike passion, let me tell you there is hope. This upcoming trip is 
> 100% my husband’s idea. (I actually tried to talk him out of bringing our 
> bikes because I fear they will be stolen.) My husband never cared a thing 
> for bikes, but it was my birthday so I got to choose our activity and I 
> chose biking in CA. We rented him an ebike when we rode The Strand, and as 
> a former motorcycle guy, he LOVED it. It was the perfect compromise. When 
> we got home he found a smoking deal on a Pedego Intercepter. It’s so ugly. 
> He got panniers, a speaker, and a phone mount and he now rides with me all 
> over creation with the condition that he gets to control the playlist. 
> Mostly, we like Saturday morning bike rides into town for coffee. He came 
> home last week laden with shopping bags and proclaimed from the foyer, 
> “I’ve got good news! I bought a new wardrobe for our Saturday coffee 
> dates!” 

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[RBW] Sam Hillborne in Charlottesville?

2019-10-21 Thread John Casteen
That one belongs to a friend of mine. My Sam is around there occasionally, too. 
Sage blue.  Let's ride some time.

John

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[RBW] Re: Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

2019-10-09 Thread John Casteen
Steve,

Good question.  My bikes are set up with the hubs you're asking about-- 
Deore XT on one, White Industries on another.  (My rims are different, so 
can't really comment there.)  I don't think you'll experience a difference 
in ride quality per se; they're all good.  But if you put on a lot of miles 
and/or ride in especially challenging conditions-- trail, wet, like that-- 
you'll spend less time off the bike servicing the higher-end hubs.  

On my own and other people's bikes used off-road, rears tend to wear more 
quickly than fronts.  If you're looking for a compromise, you could spend 
up on the rear and down on the front.  But if I were in your position and 
building up a lifer wheel set, I'd go for the Whites.  Mine (rear) has been 
terrific, and has been ridden hard.

John

On Wednesday, October 9, 2019 at 1:33:43 PM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for your insights.  While everyone notes that the high end 
> hubs are bulletproof and potentially will last a lifetime, no one's really 
> commented on ride quality and whether one should expect a difference 
> between the XT say and the higher end ones.  I'm not a weight weenie so the 
> extra ounces are not an issue for me.
>
> Steve
>
> On Wednesday, October 9, 2019 at 9:20:43 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>>
>> I'm building up a new-to-me MIT Atlantis.  My best guess is that this is 
>> my final build short of deciding to have a custom frame built for me, which 
>> is unlikely.  As a result, I'm willing to spend somewhat more on components 
>> that I otherwise would.  I've been thinking about the wheels I want and 
>> would be grateful for advice.  Are Velocity rims and Deore hubs more than 
>> sufficient -- in other words would I notice any difference in the short- or 
>> longer-term if I use more upscale hubs such as Phil Wood, Chris King, White 
>> Industries or Shimano XTR?  For rims, I've been thinking about using 
>> Velocity Atlas as I'll be riding on and off-road in the desert southwest. 
>>  Are there other rims I should consider?  Thanks for your input.
>>
>> Steve Cole
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Dropbar width

2019-08-21 Thread John Casteen
I would second what Brian Campbell said about the 46; he and I are the same 
size and ride the same width/model bars.  I used to ride 40 & 42, switched 
to 46 noodle on a road bike and 48 noodle on touring/commuter, and found 
(A) they let me open up the chest a lot more and (B) hand and arm issues go 
away.  I would guess you'd be really happy with the 46.

John

On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 4:33:37 PM UTC-4, Chris Balaschak wrote:
>
> I am wondering the consensus on handlebar width for a midsized human (PBH 
> 85).
>
> I have been riding 400m Nitto B132s, but feel they are much too narrow at 
> the brake hoods (maybe 370mm?). However, I appreciate the swoop and dip and 
> drop - the multiple hand positions. I would like a drop bar with at least 
> 420m at the hoods, and plenty of reach (there are some wider bars out 
> there, but have very shallow reach<80). What are you riding that is 
> comfortable, wide, multi-positional?
>
> My main consideration right now, are these, which are kind of wacko-wide. 
>
> https://www.sim.works/collections/handle-bars-simworks-by-nitto/products/so-bar?variant=12605701750885
>

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[RBW] Re: tire sidewall separation

2019-08-09 Thread John Casteen
I got an interesting answer to this question from the incredibly helpful and 
friendly Kingdom Bikes in Blue Hill, Maine.

Continental and perhaps other tire manufacturers include a piece of fabric that 
wraps from the inside of the tire, around the bead, and out onto the 
lower/inner part of the sidewall. It's meant to prevent problems from chafing. 
When the tire rolls, the fabric wears; my sidewall wasn't failing at all. The 
tire was just doing what it's supposed to do. All good!

And if you own the Redwood that's at Kingdom for service: nice bike!

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Re: [RBW] Re: tire sidewall separation

2019-08-08 Thread John Casteen
Tom--

Thanks!  Yeah, I did, and good idea.  The brake shoes don't touch the
tires.  The weird thing about this damage is that there's no abrasion--
just a concentric whitish ring where the threads are unraveling.

John

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019 at 7:51 AM Tom Wyland  wrote:

> Did you check to see if your brake parts are touching the tire there as
> they open and close?  Seems unlikely to happen with both tires at once,
> though.
>
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[RBW] tire sidewall separation

2019-08-07 Thread John Casteen
A tire question.

I'm riding 32 mm Continental Sport Contact IIs-- the basketball tire-- on 
Velocity A23 rims.  They've been great for about 18 months and 1000 miles, 
generally run at 55 rear / 50 front psi, which has worked for both paved 
and gravel roads.

Both tires have begun shedding fine white threads in a ring about 1 mm 
outside the rim.  It's as though they're unraveling.  Where they've come 
completely out, there's a gap or groove of about .5 mm width-- both sides 
of both tires.  This is unlike sidewall failures that I've had before on 
Compass tires and Paselas, which bubble and blister on the gum part when 
they get old and worn out; this is right down near the rim, all the way 
around.

Have others had trouble like this?  I read up on the relevant page at 
Sheldon Brown's site and didn't see anything obvious.  I'm on the road with 
this bike now, and hoping I can get through the rest of the trip without 
worrying that either or both tires are about to blow out.

Thanks in advance for any advice--

John




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[RBW] WTB: Rear Wheel, 700c rim / 135mm hub

2019-07-22 Thread John Casteen
Eric,

I have a set of Alex DM18s on rivendell silver hubs that might work for you. 
They were stock on an Appaloosa, and were gently ridden before I replaced them 
with a different set with Dyno hub. Search my posts and you'll see the listing 
for sale. Price is negotiable, because I would like to clear them out.

John

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 700C wheel sets, tires, old school brake set and shifters

2019-05-14 Thread John Casteen
Thank you (all y'all) for the interest. Photos in this folder:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1rxqXJLKnSpXOXTbnWtZiL31izZ30i50Z

Wheelset display mechanism not included in sale of wheelsets...

Your questions:

Wesley, both sets still here and available.

André, these levers may mount to braze-ons as well as this band clamp
situation. PM me with diameter if you're interested and I'd be happy to
check.

Patrick, these brakes and levers are as taken from service this morning.
They worked dandy the last time I stopped my bike with them, which was
yesterday.

Thanks again, and happy Tuesday, everyone.

John

On Sun, May 12, 2019, 12:55 PM Wesley Applequist <
wesley.applequ...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Can you post some pictures? I’m definitely a bit interested in a set.
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 700C wheel sets, tires, old school brake set and shifters

2019-05-10 Thread John Casteen
Bump, prices negotiable.  

John

On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 10:05:40 AM UTC-4, John Casteen wrote:
>
> After a couple years of trying various wheel and tire combinations, here's 
> spring cleaning.  Selling these wheels because I switched to dyno hubs.  
> These have low miles, no issues.  All prices negotiable & exclusive of 
> shipping.  
>
> Wheels 1: 700C Alex DM18 rims, Silver Hubs, skewers.  OEM from stock 
> Appaloosa build.  $200
>
> Wheels 2: 700C Mavic CXP rims, Shimano Claris hubs, skewers.  $150
>
> 700C Little Big Bens Performance Line RaceGuard LiteSkin, black, w/ tubes, 
> $50
>
> Dia-Compe 500 brakes and matching levers, vintage 1985, $25
>
> SunTour downtube shifters, ditto, $25
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: stripped derailleur hanger threads

2019-05-10 Thread John Casteen
I agree with Chris-- the dropout saver looks like it should work.

Another approach, if for whatever reason you decide not to go that route: 
step up to the next size mounting bolt, drill and tap the dropout to accept 
it, and if necessary drill the derailleur mounting hole to the appropriate 
diameter.  If you decide down the road that you want a different 
derailleur, you still have the dropout saver as an option.

John

On Friday, May 10, 2019 at 8:53:45 AM UTC-4, Christopher Cote wrote:
>
> I've never had to use the Wheels dropout saver, but it seems a perfectly 
> reasonable solution. The only thing you're drilling out are threads that 
> are so damaged as to be worthless.
>
> Another, possibly more invasive, solution is to have someone braze some 
> brass into the threads, and tap threads into that. It will burn some paint 
> off, and brass is softer than steel, so those threads won't be very strong.
>
> Chris
>
>

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[RBW] FS: 700C wheel sets, tires, old school brake set and shifters

2019-04-09 Thread John Casteen
After a couple years of trying various wheel and tire combinations, here's 
spring cleaning.  Selling these wheels because I switched to dyno hubs.  
These have low miles, no issues.  All prices negotiable & exclusive of 
shipping.  

Wheels 1: 700C Alex DM18 rims, Silver Hubs, skewers.  OEM from stock 
Appaloosa build.  $200

Wheels 2: 700C Mavic CXP rims, Shimano Claris hubs, skewers.  $150

700C Little Big Bens Performance Line RaceGuard LiteSkin, black, w/ tubes, 
$50

Dia-Compe 500 brakes and matching levers, vintage 1985, $25

SunTour downtube shifters, ditto, $25


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[RBW] Re: Mix-n-Match Knobbies and Slicks: Which goes in the Front?

2019-01-25 Thread John Casteen
I've never run that particular combination-- slick and knobby-- but do 
usually run a more aggressive tire in the front than the rear on mountain 
bikes.  

When I ride off pavement on slick tires (38 mm Compass, 42 mm Soma Shikoro) 
it's only in especially snowy or muddy conditions, going uphill, that I 
would tend to break traction on the rear wheel.  Much easier to lose grip 
on the front wheel when cornering.  I think that's the logic.  So based on 
my experience, I would go with the traditional setup-- slick in the back, 
knobby up front.

John

On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 4:39:39 PM UTC-5, Collin A wrote:
>
> Oh Hey,
>
> I was curious what folks run in regards to a mix-n-match tire combo for 
> minimal pavement riding. I understand a traditional setup is to have the 
> knobby tire up front and a slick in the back, but when traction is 
> concerned (and why you would have a knobby in the first place) all of the 
> drive force is put out through the rear wheel, so having the rear as the 
> slick seems somewhat counter-intuitive and would still result in poor 
> traction. On the other hand, having the knobby tire up front gives better 
> control when in loose conditions and reduces the chance of sliding out. I'm 
> mainly asking because tire clearances are slightly different between the 
> front and rear of one of my bikes that would allow for a bigger (or 
> knobbier) tire in the back.
>
> What are people's thoughts or experiences?
> Collin
>

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[RBW] Appaloosa/Sam

2018-12-05 Thread John Casteen
I own both of these bikes and use them for pretty similar purposes, namely 
daily commuting and errands plus longer/loaded touring (Joe, albatross) and 
stripped down Road rides (Sam, noodle bar). Both are stable, neither is 
ridiculously heavy, and they both ride great either with or without a load.

I agree with the earlier poster who said that a lighter wheelset for your 
existing bike might make a difference that would keep you from buying another 
bike. (This could be an argument for or against buying the wheelset, 
obviously.) My Sam had Alex DM-18 rims with 38 mm Little Big Ben tires, and is 
a totally different beast on its new Dyads and Jack Browns. So you may be able 
to avoid n+1 if you buy new shoes.

If I were to choose between the two, which is apparently not my strength, I 
would buy the Joe if it were for wider tires on rough roads/trails, the Sam for 
42 mm or narrower tires on mostly pavement or gravel. But I agree with those 
who have said you really can't go wrong with either frame.

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my new Roadeo. Part I, Wheels.

2018-10-22 Thread John Casteen
I don't know the Quill, but have been really happy with my set of TB14s.  
For me, they've been what you were asking about: light-ish and fast.  Plus 
they do look snappy.  

This wheel set has been on two bikes-- an Appaloosa for commuting and 
around town, and a Sam for open road and gravel.  Perfect for both 
applications.  If I ever wear these out, I'd replace them with the same.  

Good luck with it--

John

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 7:18:28 PM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the feedback!  There's a lot to think about here.  I should 
> have mentioned that I already have the tires I'll be riding -- Vittoria G+ 
> Corsa Competition, 700c x 28.  I  really like them.
>
> Looks like no one has anything to say about the Phil hubs, which might be 
> saying a lot.  I think I'll go with the T11s.
>
> I'm still undecided on the Quill vs H Plus Son rims as I got good feedback 
> on both.  Think I'll have to toss a coin on this one.
>
> I really appreciate everyone taking the time to help with this decision. 
>  Thank you.
>
>
>
> On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 8:29:55 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>>
>> I’m the proud owner of a beautiful, new-to-me Roadeo frameset that I 
>> recently purchased here from another group member.  My plan is to take my 
>> time building it up over the course of winter, with a May 1st goal of 
>> getting it out on the road.  As I am also the proud owner of a few other 
>> bikes(some Rivendells) I have a pretty specific, narrowly focused idea in 
>> mind regarding the Roadeo.  Essentially, I’d like it to be pared down 
>> accessory-wise, light and fast, with an 11 speed Shimano drivetrain and STI 
>> shifters.  Unlike my other bikes, I’d like this one to be a sort of one 
>> trick pony — light, fast and agile.  I’ll never mount racks or bags or even 
>> fenders on this bike(I have this covered with my other bikes.) For the most 
>> part, it’ll be a fair weather bike.  I may occasionally commute on it, but 
>> I won’t ever have the need for it to carry anything or to protect me or 
>> itself from foul weather.  
>>
>>
>> My I I ask for your help?  I’ve spent quite a bit of time researching 
>> component choices, but could use some real world, Riv based advice.  For 
>> the sake of ease, I thought it best that I divide this into a few different 
>> threads.  Today’s is wheels.  I’ll follow it up with brakes and bars and 
>> cranks, etc.
>>
>>
>> Here's what I've been thinking so far
>>
>>
>> I’ll be running 700c x 28 clinchers and will not ever have the need or 
>> desire to run anything larger than, say, 700c x 32. I’d like polished 
>> silver rims with polished silver hubs both with an aesthetic appropriate 
>> for this vintage/modern looking frame. I’ve narrowed my rim and hub choices 
>> down to 2, but am open to other suggestions should they meet my criteria. 
>>
>>
>>
>> Rims:
>>
>>
>> Velocity Quill. I really like Velocity rims, but have no experience with 
>> the Quills. They come in polished silver and seem to be Velocity’s best 
>> choice for a fast, light wheel build. I know a lot of people ride the A23s, 
>> but for some reason I’m just not interested in them. 
>>
>>
>> H Son Plus TB14. I’ve only just learned about these, but people on the 
>> internet seem to be very happy with them. They have the look I’m after and 
>> also seem to be a good choice for a light-ish fast wheelset.  I think 
>> I'm leaning toward these just to try out a different maker's rims, but am 
>> really torn and am hoping for a nudge in one direction of the other. 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hubs:
>>
>>
>> White Industries T11, front and back. I have a rear MI5 on my AHH and 
>> really like it. They’re made here in the US which I like and they aren’t 
>> too noisy. I was pretty much settled on the T11s for this build, but then 
>> learned about
>>
>>
>> Phil’s road hubs. I also have a Phil rear touring hub which I also really 
>> like. In fact, it’s my favorite hub as it spins silently. But the Phil road 
>> hubs are significantly heavier than the T11s. They are also more costly and 
>> being different than their touring hub may sound differently. I’m not super 
>> concerned with weight, but if all else is equal(including durability,) 
>> weight could be a deciding factor. 
>>
>>
>> What do you all think? Does anyone have experience with these rims/hubs? 
>> Is there something else you'd suggest.  I've heard HED makes good rims that 
>> would be Roadeo appropriate, but they seem to only come in black with 
>> pretty pronounced graphics.  I like the bling of polished silver, but not 
>> bling-y logos.  What would you choose in my place?  I should mention I’m a 
>> 165lb rider, and I’d likely choose 32 spokes, front and back. Unless, of 
>> course, someone feels like I could get away with 28 up front. 
>>
>>
>> I’d love to hear any advice you’re willing to offer. Thank you for your 
>> help. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Recommend 700 x 28c tire, please.

2018-09-28 Thread John Casteen
I second the view for Paselas. At 28mm and 65 pounds rear, 60 front, they're 
really comfortable.

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[RBW] urban/city tire rec: 650b, 38mm or so

2018-08-25 Thread John Casteen
The Soma Shikoros have been great commuter tires for me. A little heavier than 
the Compass equivalent (38 mm), and slightly less cushy, but the ride is great 
and no flats yet for me. That's in about a year of all-around riding including 
nine-mile city ride to work.

John

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[RBW] What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

2018-06-03 Thread John Casteen
I would second what Erl said. Haven't ridden a Cheviot, but the Appaloosa with 
albatross bars and 38+ tires (mine are 42 mm Shikoros) is a great setup for 
anything around town. Stable, relatively upright, comfortable, and 
load-capable. It's not inherently slow, but I feel much safer on it than I do 
on other bikes that are inherently quick.

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[RBW] Rim recommendations?

2018-05-27 Thread John Casteen
I've run their TB14 with Barlow Pass & Jack Browns. No problems mounting. The 
style of the rim is a little more traditional than the Archetype, if I remember 
right. I like them.

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa/Albastache Stem Question

2017-09-25 Thread John Casteen
Thanks, everyone, for these helpful replies.  The Chrystem definitely has 
too little height to get the bars where they need to be, but it's helpful 
to know that the length should work.  Now to pick a replacement...

--John

On Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 8:19:52 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> John, feel free to poke around the posts on my Hunqapillar and Quickbeam. 
> My New Moustache (aka Albastache) are on 5cm (QB) and 7cm (Hunq) stems and 
> I love them. You can see them in trail riding action here:
> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/autumnal-aria
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 8:30:26 AM UTC-6, John Casteen wrote:
>>
>> I bought a used Joe Appaloosa that had been purchased complete and 
>> tricked out really beautifully by its first owner-- many thoughtful choices 
>> about gear and parts to customize and/or upgrade from the Rivendell build. 
>>  Among them is an Albastache bar, which is new to me; it's great.  The bike 
>> fits me perfectly except for the fact that the stem, a Nitto 7 cm Chrystem, 
>> has too little height to raise the bars where I think they should be, which 
>> is maybe an inch above the saddle.  I end up with a bit more weight on my 
>> arms and hands than I'd like; the stem, maxed out, sits about an inch below 
>> the nose of the saddle.  I think it's going to take a different stem to 
>> jack up the bars, but before diving into that, two questions: first, does 
>> anyone have advice about stem lengths that generally work for these bars, 
>> and second, am I seeing this right?  Do other Albastache riders generally 
>> run the stem height just at or above seat height, where I'm sort of aiming 
>> to put it?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass along--
>>
>> John
>>
>

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[RBW] Appaloosa/Albastache Stem Question

2017-09-23 Thread John Casteen
I bought a used Joe Appaloosa that had been purchased complete and tricked 
out really beautifully by its first owner-- many thoughtful choices about 
gear and parts to customize and/or upgrade from the Rivendell build.  Among 
them is an Albastache bar, which is new to me; it's great.  The bike fits 
me perfectly except for the fact that the stem, a Nitto 7 cm Chrystem, has 
too little height to raise the bars where I think they should be, which is 
maybe an inch above the saddle.  I end up with a bit more weight on my arms 
and hands than I'd like; the stem, maxed out, sits about an inch below the 
nose of the saddle.  I think it's going to take a different stem to jack up 
the bars, but before diving into that, two questions: first, does anyone 
have advice about stem lengths that generally work for these bars, and 
second, am I seeing this right?  Do other Albastache riders generally run 
the stem height just at or above seat height, where I'm sort of aiming to 
put it?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass along--

John

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