Re: [RBW] Converting 650b Hilsen to Rene Herse 42/26 cranks

[johnboy]

I have an early A Homer (2006?)700 c 59 cm. I switched from a typical RBW 
Sugino triple to a RH 46/30 double. Did nothing to the bottom bracket-a 
110mm Phil Wood. No issues. Changed to a vintage Suntour lite front 
derailler. John -Walnut Creek
On Monday, May 3, 2021 at 2:50:56 PM UTC-7 Doug Williams wrote:

> Thanks very much, Patrick! As usual, very helpful.
>
> Doug
>
> On Sunday, May 2, 2021 at 4:30:06 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Doug: There are all sorts of reasons to buy the RH crank, foremost among 
>> which is its beauty. But if you want a cheaper, more utilitarian way to get 
>> the same result, consider converting the homely Sugino by removing the 46 
>> and replacing it with a guard (https://bbgbashguard.com), swapping the 
>> 36 for a 42, and considering whether you need to swap the 24 for a 26; but 
>> if you decide that you do, this is easy. 
>>
>> Then you can hold an interior debate about the cogs you need to change in 
>> the rear.
>>
>> The *upshot* is that you can leave the bb spindle and even the front 
>> derailleur strictly alone. 
>>
>> Some years ago I changed the 46-36-24 on my Fargo, long since sold, to a 
>> BBBashGuard/38/24 on the same Sugino XD2. I swapped the 7 cogs on the 
>> Shimano LX freehub for 9 different ones; IIRC, I simply bought 9-sp spacers 
>> and built a cassette from the cogs in my Big Box.
>>
>> Note this carefully: I *did not* change the bb assembly, I kept the same 
>> LX triple front derailleur, *and I didn't even** lower the front 
>> derailleur.* I simply adjusted the fd outer throw adjustment screw. 
>>
>> It all worked fine. Again, I did not lower the fd; just left it hanging 
>> with a huge gap over the outer, formerly middle, ring.
>>
>> But once again, the RH crank is indeed very pretty, and I am tempted to 
>> buy one myself simply for prettiness.
>>
>> Oh,
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, May 2, 2021 at 1:53 PM Doug Williams  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 58cm 650b A. Homer Hilsen that I purchased from Riv in 2014. I 
>>> have been loving it ever since! It has the Sugino Triple Crank 46-36-24 and 
>>> I run it all friction shifting with bar end silvers, 8 speed with a 11-32 
>>> cassette. The front derailer is Shimano Claris Triple. The bottom bracket 
>>> is  bbc110.
>>>
>>> So...I'm getting older and I notice I don't use the 46 ring much, at 
>>> least not with the higher gears in the back. I am definitely an "UnRacer" 
>>> anyway. I am thinking of getting the Rene Herse double cranks with 42-26 
>>> rings. If I go with the 8 speed megarange 11-34 cassette in the back, I 
>>> would give up almost nothing in the lower gears and lose just some high 
>>> gears that I rarely use anyway. So two questions:
>>>
>>> 1. Is my bottom bracket compatible with the Rene Herse cranks? I think 
>>> so, but I'm not sure. Would now be a good time to replace it anyway?
>>>
>>> 2. Should I just keep my Claris triple FD and crank in the limit screw 
>>> or go with something like the Shimano CX70 or some other double FD that 
>>> works well with compact 42-26 rings?
>>>
>>> Any other comments or suggestions would be welcome.
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Converting 650b Hilsen to Rene Herse 42/26 cranks

[johnboy]

Doug, I have an early Hilsen 59 cm 700c (2006?)I switched from the standard 
Riv Sugino triple to a RH 46/30 double. Phil Wood. BB 110 I think. Anyway, 
didn’t need to change anything except the front der. IRD alpine hit the 
chain stay and I went with a suntour lite double der ( vintage)good luck, 
John Walnut Creek
On Sunday, May 2, 2021 at 12:53:47 PM UTC-7 Doug Williams wrote:

> I have a 58cm 650b A. Homer Hilsen that I purchased from Riv in 2014. I 
> have been loving it ever since! It has the Sugino Triple Crank 46-36-24 and 
> I run it all friction shifting with bar end silvers, 8 speed with a 11-32 
> cassette. The front derailer is Shimano Claris Triple. The bottom bracket 
> is  bbc110.
>
> So...I'm getting older and I notice I don't use the 46 ring much, at least 
> not with the higher gears in the back. I am definitely an "UnRacer" anyway. 
> I am thinking of getting the Rene Herse double cranks with 42-26 rings. If 
> I go with the 8 speed megarange 11-34 cassette in the back, I would give up 
> almost nothing in the lower gears and lose just some high gears that I 
> rarely use anyway. So two questions:
>
> 1. Is my bottom bracket compatible with the Rene Herse cranks? I think so, 
> but I'm not sure. Would now be a good time to replace it anyway?
>
> 2. Should I just keep my Claris triple FD and crank in the limit screw or 
> go with something like the Shimano CX70 or some other double FD that works 
> well with compact 42-26 rings?
>
> Any other comments or suggestions would be welcome.
>
> Doug
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone else a paranoid mechanic?

[johnboy]

All of the above and then I spin the wheel with tire at pressure and look 
for any wobbles, bulges or such in the tire. If something is amiss , reduce 
pressure and check for tube under the bead or pull on the tire to achieve 
that sometimes elusive evenness with rim. Spin and repeat as needed. John

On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 7:06:30 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> I mainly worry the 1st time I ride a set of wheels that I built myself 
> down a long hill or mountain.
>
> Laing
>
> On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 10:02:53 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey Laing!
>> Thanks for that write up! Most of those are the tips/things I definitely 
>> did after my downhill blowout. I'll likely try the max PSI trick and 
>> inspect the raised line again. I think I got it nailed and figured out, I 
>> just wondered if anyone who checks the boxes and learns from their mistakes 
>> still has that creeping feeling that it's all going to fall apart. 
>>
>> Thanks again!
>> Ben
>>
>> On Wed, Dec 16, 2020 at 8:33 AM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> There are two things.
>>> One. Push the entire tire, both sides, to the center of the rim off of 
>>> the bead seat before inflating so that you can see that there is no tube 
>>> under the tire.
>>> Two. inflate the tire in stages - 1st inflate the tire to 15-20 PSIG and 
>>> then inspect the tire to rim interface. On all tires, there is a molded-in, 
>>> small, raised line around the tire just above the tire-rim interface. At 
>>> low pressures, this may still be below the rim, if there are any places 
>>> where this line is a noticeable distance from the rim, it may indicate a 
>>> problem - deflate, inspect, adjust. As you raise the pressure in stages the 
>>> line should eventually even out at a constant distance from the rim as it 
>>> seats on the rim - you can pull on the tire at the low and intermediate 
>>> pressures to help it out. Some tires seat immediately, some require a lot 
>>> of fiddling. It may require going to the tire maximum pressure to seat the 
>>> tire. Then you can release pressure as required. This is generally only 
>>> required for new tires, they kind of take a set as they break in and 
>>> stretch.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>> Still uses tubes
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 9:11:36 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hey all!
 I just threw on Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires (700x40) on the 
 Atlantis. Sad to see the Shikoros all deflated and and sitting in the 
 corner, but it was either they take a timeout or I don't ride to work. 
 Easy 
 choice.

 So I've been riding as an adult over a year now and started with an 
 affordable Linus with 28mm tires and promptly got a flat my third or 
 fourth 
 time out on it. I took the wheel over, unseated the bead, got the tube 
 out, 
 patched it, put it back in, reseated the bead, yadda yadda yadda, BOOM. No 
 issue. Had another flat this last summer and had to repair it while on the 
 way home from picking up a crowler of beer...very stressful, almost lost 
 my 
 wrench, but got it done, not a problem! 

 Later this last summer as piece-by-piece Riv'd up my Linus, I wen to 
 35mm tires. Took off the old ones, did all the steps, and as I was pumping 
 up the front tire, the tube blew out (some tube was under the 
 bead...DOH!). 
 So I laughed it off, changed the tube, did the rear wheel, and went out 
 for 
 a ride. All was going well, then on a fast descent, when I started 
 breaking 
 I heard an awful thud-thud-thud-thud that was getting louder and BANG! I 
 screwed up the back wheel, too! So re-did both tires, used soapy water, 
 thought about using talc, but I couldn't find any locally and Sheldon 
 Brown 
 says it does nothing...I never had another problem.

 So I guess I'm wondering this (if you've managed to read this far)...at 
 what point can you be absolutely sure that tube is not pinched between 
 bead 
 and rim? Can you ever be sure? is my bike a ticking time bomb? :)

 Just wanted to share my neurotic thoughts as I rode to work, traversing 
 ice for the first time ever! 

 Ben "IT'S GONNA BLOW" in Omaha

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Useful use for beeswax

[johnboy]

My first beeswax was a puck about the size of what would come out of a Dixie 
cup. My mom got it for me for the odd small boat sewing I was doing. Still have 
most of that bit. More recently somebody tossed a block that’s 6x6x1 that I 
rescued ( read hoarded). Should probably pass that onNobody asked ,but I 
used to use “Score” hair cream. And no...John ,Walnut Creek

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[RBW] Useful use for beeswax

[johnboy]

I rub it on slippery shoelaces that tend to loosen on their own. Also to “whip” 
the end of twine, thread, yarn or what to ease threading a needle. Rubbed on 
seat rails before clamping in a seatpost to eliminate creaking thereJohn P 
, Walnut Creek

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Excitment on IG

[johnboy]

Leah, You don’t know me, but I’ve just got to say “Platy de Belle” or perhaps 
“Peppermint Platy” if the color is rightok ,I got that out of my system, 
I’ll go back in my cave...John

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Re: [RBW] Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[johnboy]

On my Simpleone (sim plee oh née) I’m using a 110bcd double crank with 34/42 
rings and a White Ind. Dos freewheel 17/19. Maybe with some fussing with the 
chain length I could use all 4 combos, but as it is only 3 are usable, 
small/small puts the quick release partly off the drop out. Gears (using nom. 
27” wheel) are 67”, 60” and 48”. Flip side of hub is a 23t freewheel. Most 
rides I do I don’t shift out of the 67”. Sometimes simple gets 
complicatedJohn

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[RBW] Hemp twine Bay Area

[johnboy]

Somafab shop has it...John

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[RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[johnboy]

On Thursday, April 2, 2020 at 3:11:11 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
> We need some fun threads in these trying times. COVID-19 has taken a lot, but 
> it can’t have everything. Most of us live in places where biking is still 
> considered safe during a pandemic. As long as that’s the case, the wheels of 
> my beautiful blue Clem will be rolling, eating up the miles in a lovely 
> Nevada spring. 
> 
> 
> Post your 30 days of biking photos of you with your Rivendell here! I’ll go 
> first. I missed Day 1, but I have the Apple Watch workout to prove I rode. I 
> found some new protected trails, all blacktop, and had a blast. My family was 
> happy to be rid of me - between the conference calls my husband was having 
> and the school Zoom sessions my sons were attending, my banging around in the 
> kitchen was irritating all of them. Day 2 took me to the drive-up window of 
> the bank. Not terribly exciting, but the sun felt so good and the errand was 
> necessary. I love doing errands by bike!
> 
> 
> There are lots of people out on bikes right now; I want to tell them it’s 30 
> Days of Biking so they can work towards the goal, too. Sadly, most of the 
> kids I’ve seen are on bikes one size too small, at least. Also, most of the 
> kids are wobbly and don’t appear confident; biking is not something they do 
> often, I’d guess. But maybe we’ll make some new converts out of them anyway.
> 
> 
> Leah


Sunday morning Two Bridges ride. Mt. Tamalpais from above Cal Maritime in 
Vallejo and Mt. Diablo from Benicia State Rec Area.   John- Walnut Creek,

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[RBW] Re: PSA Clem Smith Jr/Clememtine Sacramento Craigslist with interesting ad

[johnboy]

C/L ad copy taken from Clementine.com . Someone has no idea what they have, 
question is how did they come by it...John

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[RBW] Re: Homer x Rene Herse

[johnboy]

My Waterford homer (59 I think) has 3.2 mm+- clearance on either side of a 
Barlow Pass that measures 38.8mm at 50 psi. These are rear of bike 
measurements. Front is more like 6 or 7 mm on both sides of same tire.  John - 
In currently pleasant to ride in Walnut Creek

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Re: [RBW] Tires for Clementine

[johnboy]

Leah, I’ve never noticed tires “dusting” my frame .Could it be something on the 
roads you are riding? Where on the frame does it appear? Where doesn’t it? John

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[RBW] #ClemWaiting

[johnboy]

End of August give or take ,as of my visit there yesterday, John

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[RBW] Re: Where to buy Pletscher Rack Easy-Fix adapter and/or basket? [In the USA]

[johnboy]

Thorusa seems to have a lot of Pletscher partsJ

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[RBW] Re: Knicker Quest

[johnboy]

Just came across Fife Country Breeks .Don’t know if there is a US distributor. 
No experience with them personally. Keela makes some cycling specific pants 
,Roadrunners. stretchy,warm,$80 to US .Seem well made ,but country of origin is 
unclear. John

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Re: [RBW] Re: 3-Speed MTBing Resources?

[johnboy]

An aside maybeTom Cuthbertson talked about using SA 3 speed for cyclocross. 
Bike Tripping-Ten Speed Press.

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[RBW] Re: Back to the Drawing Board for Kid Bike

[johnboy]

Somafab sells bare frames and mini build kits for kids bikes- the Bart and 
Lisa models...

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 12:19:00 PM UTC-8, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> I bought my 1st grader a new Giant XTC 20 inch bike this summer, so that 
> he could master the 2.5 mile-each-way-all-uphill-on-the-way-back school 
> commute. The bike shop people said Giant makes Trek and Specialized, as 
> well as offer its own line of bikes. At half the cost and the promise of 
> similar (maybe equal) quality, the XTC won out. 
>
> My son doesn't complain, but I've really come to dislike that bike's 
> geometry. Every time I look at him, he's standing up and pedaling. Even on 
> flat areas. I rarely see him sit. I've asked him why and if the bike is 
> uncomfortable and he doesn't know how to tell me anything other than it's 
> more comfortable for him to stand. I don't remember him doing this on his 
> Specialized Hotrock in 16 inches. His knees look like they come up too high 
> as well. The tires are very wide, and I feel like his bike has drag on it 
> when I walk it out of the school bike rack to the school yard entrance. I 
> always have my other son's Specialized in the other hand, and it is 
> effortless. 
>
> So, every day, my younger son struggles up the hill on that Giant bike. 
> Meanwhile, my older son glides on his Specialized Hotrock 24 inches, and 
> only stands on the steepest part of the climb, which makes me feel so 
> rotten. If I had thought the Giant would be wrong, I'd have gladly spent 
> the extra money on the Specialized. I hate to toss more money into kids' 
> bikes, but since we use ours 5 miles per day, 5 days per week, I have to 
> consider it.
>
> I've seen positive remarks from the Bunch about Islabikes, but they are 
> spendy and I can find almost no info about them online. Seems a bit risky, 
> and I'm rather risk-adverse after my Giant purchase. 
>
> Riv content: Can the Clem and Clementine have a baby bike and we can call 
> it the Little Squirt? Please, Grant?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 2 things: 1: ISO/WTT for fixed gear lockring; 2: How to fix wood chain guard?

[johnboy]

I would strip any finish off the back side and lay a layer of glass or 
(heavens forbid ) carbon fiber cloth into epoxy. West GFlex is strong and 
allows some working time, 5 minute is usually a bit thick and obviously has 
short working time. squeegee the epoxy into the cloth and get good contact 
with wood. Then clamp the guard to a piece of plywood covered with packing 
tape ( acts to keep epoxy from sticking to ply)  The idea is to press the 
epoxy saturated cloth to the wood and get a smooth surface on the chain 
side of the guard. Let cure over night and unclamp . Sand , file as needed 
to clean up. Be careful when clamping that the cloth does not slime out of 
position and don't over clamp. Also warming the epoxy will make it saturate 
the cloth easier. Good luck, John

On Saturday, September 12, 2015 at 2:58:27 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> 1. I need a standard fixed, left-hand thread lockring. Would prefer to 
> trade for a fixed cog; have 14, 1 5, 16 and probably others. Failing 
> trades, cash if cheap. Failing cheap, let me know what you have and what 
> you want. 
>
> 2. See photo. The nice but, admittedly twee, wooden chainguard from my 
> newtome Dahon Hon Solo is cracked; look at the section around the bottom 
> most bolt hole. The cracks don't quite go all the way through.
>
> Is there a way to regain material integrity here? The wood is very thin; I 
> think of some sort of glued-on backing, but I don't want to make it look 
> ugly.
>
> Perhaps I should just change the crankset - there's an efficient fix!
>
> Thanks. Enjoy the richly ripe mid-Victorian smug and twee literary 
> reference.
>
> Out flew the web and floated wide-
> The mirror crack'd from side to side;
> "The curse is come upon me," cried
> The Lady of Shalott.
>
> Patrick Moore, who blushes to admit that he finds at least a few Tennyson 
> lines appealing, in ABQ, NM.
>
> -- 
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>  
>

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Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.