[RBW] Re: Super-spongy brakes on my AHH - any help?
I had a similar problem with the silver brakes on my AHH when new. I was using Ultegra levers and they definitely felt mushy. After some months and putting in a lot of miles on the bike, I noticed that the problem had completely disappeared. The bike would stop on a dime with very little flexy feeling. I believe the problem was the factory coating on the also new rims (Velocity Synergy). I don't think the rims are anodized, but the surface definitely looks different now than it did when new. Once the coating wore off, everything changed. At some point I changed from the Ultegra levers to some Campy ones and experienced another significant improvement. I'm sure not all levers have the same leverage and cable pull. Dylan On Sep 15, 12:53 pm, Garth wrote: > FWIW I've found it's not necessary to have a perfectly square > cable end. I've driven myself nuts trying to do it, but then realized > as long as the cut is clean, the angle doesn't have to be perfectly > square. This is based on my many trials and errors. The most useful > tool I have is one I'm not sure the name of it is. It's essentially a > pick that I use to inset into cable ends after cutting and filing, to > ensure it's fully open. As filing is great and all, but it can > compress the metal inside the cable, where it's unreachable, hence > using the pick I wedge it in there and gently ream it in back to > proper size. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: AHH tire clearance
I am running Schwalbe Marathons 622-42 with the 45mm SKS fenders. The tires have an actual width of 40mm and height of 41mm on Synergy Velocity rims. There is perhaps less clearance than others would like with the fenders, but I never have a problem. There is about 1/4" between the fender and the tire. Dylan On May 15, 9:25 am, MichaelH wrote: > Rivendell list the AHH clearance as 38mm with fenders, but is that > actual, or just for a tire labeled 38 mm, which is more likely 35 > actual? > > Michael > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Sizing on a A Homer Hilsen
Oh yeah - stem is 9cm. On May 11, 1:03 pm, Seth Vidal wrote: > On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 3:51 PM, wile wrote: > > I have a PBH of 89 and ride a 63cm AHH. I was given the exact same > > option from Rivendell - either 61 or 63 would work. However, Rich > > advised me that with handlebars set up the same way (shorter stem on > > the 63), the 63 would handle better. I'm very happy with the 63. I > > have a small handful of seatpost showing - 3" or so, and with the stem > > sticking 2" out of the headset, both are level. The top of the seat > > and the crook of the stem are both about 6" above the top tube and the > > bike looks perfectly proportioned. I think if I raise the stem up to > > the max, it ends up about 2" above the top of the saddle. I ride 40c > > Schwalbe Marathons and ride the bike mostly for commuting. Keep in > > mind that when you stop and put a foot down at lights, etc. you have > > even more standover height because one foot is up on the pedal. > > Dylan, > if you wouldn't mind, just to humor me - measure from the tip of your > saddle to the middle of the flats on your handlebars. > > I'm curious what that distance is. > > thanks > -sv > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Sizing on a A Homer Hilsen
Ha - no problem. It's sitting right in front of me - every week is bike to work week here :) Exactly 21.75 inches from the very tip of the saddle (B-17 Team Professional) to the center of the stem clamp. On May 11, 1:03 pm, Seth Vidal wrote: > On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 3:51 PM, wile wrote: > > I have a PBH of 89 and ride a 63cm AHH. I was given the exact same > > option from Rivendell - either 61 or 63 would work. However, Rich > > advised me that with handlebars set up the same way (shorter stem on > > the 63), the 63 would handle better. I'm very happy with the 63. I > > have a small handful of seatpost showing - 3" or so, and with the stem > > sticking 2" out of the headset, both are level. The top of the seat > > and the crook of the stem are both about 6" above the top tube and the > > bike looks perfectly proportioned. I think if I raise the stem up to > > the max, it ends up about 2" above the top of the saddle. I ride 40c > > Schwalbe Marathons and ride the bike mostly for commuting. Keep in > > mind that when you stop and put a foot down at lights, etc. you have > > even more standover height because one foot is up on the pedal. > > Dylan, > if you wouldn't mind, just to humor me - measure from the tip of your > saddle to the middle of the flats on your handlebars. > > I'm curious what that distance is. > > thanks > -sv > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Sizing on a A Homer Hilsen
I have a PBH of 89 and ride a 63cm AHH. I was given the exact same option from Rivendell - either 61 or 63 would work. However, Rich advised me that with handlebars set up the same way (shorter stem on the 63), the 63 would handle better. I'm very happy with the 63. I have a small handful of seatpost showing - 3" or so, and with the stem sticking 2" out of the headset, both are level. The top of the seat and the crook of the stem are both about 6" above the top tube and the bike looks perfectly proportioned. I think if I raise the stem up to the max, it ends up about 2" above the top of the saddle. I ride 40c Schwalbe Marathons and ride the bike mostly for commuting. Keep in mind that when you stop and put a foot down at lights, etc. you have even more standover height because one foot is up on the pedal. Dylan On May 11, 8:22 am, tucker wrote: > stocking feet pbh is 89, with sneakers on it moves up to 92.5. I have > big feet (size 13). The bike will mostly be ridden as a commuter in > NYC. If the actual standover with 35mm tires is 87 or so, that would > give me 5.5 cm standover, over two inches. If it follows that the 61 > would have 85 standover on 35 mm tires, that would give me three > inches of standover, which seems like alot, for even a country bike. > On a 63 my saddle will be approximately 15.5 cm above the top tube, > that seems like i will get the requisite fistfull of post. Maybe im > wrong, Im just afraid on the 61 i will have trouble getting the handle > bars a couple cm above the saddle. thanks for all the input. > > On May 11, 11:03 am, Patrick in VT wrote: > > > > > > > On May 11, 9:22 am, tucker wrote: > > > > Thanks everyone, > > > I did call Rivendell, and they told me i could go with either size. > > > On my current bike a custom track frame. The standover is 84.5, the > > > top tup is 59cm and stem a 110 nitto pearl is about 4 cm below my > > > seat. My saddle height is right around 78.5. I am planning on using a > > > nitto dirt drop stem with mustache bars. I guess i am leaning towards > > > the larger frame, so i can get higher handle bars easier. > > > with a saddle height 78.5, you're going to have very little seatpost > > showing on a 63, so spend some time thinking about where you want the > > bars. assuming you don't want the bars at/above saddle height, you > > might not be able to get the bars *low* enough with dirtdrop/m-bar set > > up. > > > i recall seeing a rockin' AHH recently (maybe jinxed's?) - the > > dirtdrop stem is fully inserted and the bars still look "up" for his > > riding style (he rides stuff where it helps to have a bit of bar > > drop). > > > and speaking of riding style ... standover clearance is a personal > > thing. if you think you don't need it for whatever kind of riding > > your doing, that's cool. i'm intimate with the top tubes on some of > > my bikes too. but, if you're going to be rough-riding, and anticipate > > needing to put a foot down every now and then, especially in places > > where it's not always convenient to put a foot down - standover > > helps. or, if you plan on loading up your hilsen for a tour of sorts > > - having more standover helps. and i can't imagine that you're going > > to have much on a 63. just something to consider. > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Homer w/ Greens or Homer w/ Blues (was Speed Up Sam)
Yeah - I couldn't tell a difference either - similar tire life, similar puncture resistance, equally fun to ride. On Apr 26, 3:16 pm, James Warren wrote: > I know experiences vary, but I gotta point out that I equally love the ride > of Homer (AHH) with JB Blues or JB Greens. Can't tell a difference. Amazingly > good either way. > > > > > > > > -Jim W. > > -Original Message- > From: cyclotourist > Sent: Apr 26, 2010 9:17 AM > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com > Subject: Re: [RBW] Speed Up My Sam > Don't know if it'll give you ~2mph , but I'd ditch the JB Blues. Either go > with Greens, or better yet Grand Bois Cypres 31s. Those are the nicest > rolling tires I even ever had the privilege of using. I found them too > delicate for day in and day out use, but I think they would shine on the > events you mentioned. > If it won't compromise comfort over distance, maybe lower your bars 1-2 cm > from where they are as well. Speaking of bars, maybe go narrower to get a > little bit less drag. > You mentioned 36 spoke, but what kind of rim? I'd recommend 28 hole Velocity > Aeroheads if you really want to go all out. Those plus the Cypres... you'd > be set (maybe). > Have fun!On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 9:10 AM, Darin > G.wrote:Alright, this will probably sound un-Rivish,...please > don't pick my > bones over. I'm new to this type of bicycle. > I need my commuter/tourer Sam to go faster, if possible. I have a > slate of century rides and a 200 km brevet lined up for the summer and > I'm being dropped by my riding companions who are significantly less > fit and heavier than I am, but are riding zippy road bikes (including > my old Roubaix). I'm about 1.5 to 3 mph slower over the same course > than I was on "road bike." I've never been a racer but I really don't > want my centuries to take 7 hours and I don't think I can make up the > difference with pure horsepower. I'm planning on a second bike to > take on this duty, but that will be at least a year away. > So, where would this group look to speed up my Sam? Wheels? Tires? > I'm riding 36 spoke wheels with Jack Brown Blues. And if it just > can't be done, tell me so and I'll practice smelling the flowers until > I can come up with the appropriate tool for the described job. > D.G. > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email torbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email > torbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- > Cheers, > David > Redlands, CA > "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something > wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym." ~Bill Nye, > scientist guy > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hobbies that compliment your Rivendell lifestyle
Agreed - I don't collect fountain pens except for use, and use them fairly exclusively. I also brew my own beer. Dylan On Apr 26, 7:48 am, Seth Vidal wrote: > On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 10:43 AM, Bruce wrote: > > Fountain pen restoration/collecting > > I don't restore them but I use them fairly exclusively. But I used > them before I discovered rivendell. > > I've started sewing more, though I don't suspect that is a much of a > riv'ish hobby. > > Does gardening count? Probably not. > > -sv > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Coth tape; was: Daughter's New Whip
I wrap from the ends, first cork, then cloth. The cork makes it all the way to the top of the bar, several inches from the stem. One roll of cloth makes it just several inches past the brake lever because of the increased diameter, so I use two rolls of cloth on each side (ends up 1.5 with pieces left over). I start the second roll just overlapping with the first and make one full revolution before continuing up the bar. Twine at the end and shellac the whole thing. I know two rolls of cloth on each side seems excessive, but I am so happy with the looks and comfort and I think it should last a long time. On Apr 26, 3:31 am, Angus wrote: > I wrap from the ends toward the center of the bar. Wrapped from the > center out, a hand sliding down the bar can lift the edge of the > tape. If it is shellacked it probably doesn't matter. > > Angus > > On Apr 25, 4:52 pm, Philip Williamson > wrote: > > > > > > > That's a really good idea! (wrap from the ends, tuck under the hoods). > > > I left my Viva tape "unfinished" for almost a year, and it didn't > > unroll. After a while, I wrapped with copper > > wire:http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/4510906281/ > > > Philip > > > On Apr 25, 2:22 pm, Seth Vidal wrote: > > > > On Sun, Apr 25, 2010 at 4:56 PM, velomann wrote: > > > > "have any of y'all glued the ends of cloth tape in place? > > > >> Or shellacked it in place?" > > > > > I start on the top of the bar and wrap toward the ends, make a neat > > > > tuck, plug it with a wine cork, and shellac the whole thing. Slap a > > > > new coat on every year or so and it doesn't unravel - much more > > > > durable than cork wrap. And beats cork in the "beausage" department > > > > every time. > > > > I start at the center of the bar and at the bar end and wrap to the > > > brake hood. Then I tuck everything in under the hood and it stays. > > > > I know it's cheating but it seems to work pretty well. > > > > -sv > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > > For more options, visit this group > > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Daughter's New Whip
I like the look, feel, and durability of cloth tape, but it makes the diameter of my bars too small for my large hands. Also, it doesn't dampen any vibration at all. My solution has been to wrap cloth over very tightly wrapped cork and then shellac. I like the way it looks, feels, and lasts. On Apr 25, 8:34 am, Philip Williamson wrote: > I ride cork tape barehanded (depending on temperature), and like it, > but I've had cloth tape on the Quickbeam for four or five years, and I > prefer it on that bike. I'm thinking about switching the Bontrager to > cloth tape, too. It wraps up to a smaller bar diameter, and it gives > good grip. Basically I want an excuse to try the Newbaum's tape from > Rivendell, and it comes in lots more colors than cork. > > For a kid, the smaller bar OD could make a big difference in reach to > the levers. > > "You ride a bike for comfort?" > Philip > > On Apr 25, 3:00 am, PATRICK MOORE wrote: > > > > > > > I meant to add: I find it uncomfortable -- not very much so, but certainly > > not as comfortable as cork or plastic. I don't wear gloves, so perhaps that > > is the reason; still, any advantages beside looks? > > > On Sun, Apr 25, 2010 at 3:59 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote: > > > 450 miles a month! I wish I had the time to ride that much! But excellent > > > story. > > > > I'm curious about the attraction of cloth tape: what is the point of it? > > > It > > > came on my Hillborne and the only reason I've not removed it for syntho > > > cork > > > is that I'm lazy (and busy). > > > -- > > Patrick Moore > > Albuquerque, NM > > For professional resumes, contact > > Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com > > (505) 227-0523 > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: today's ride
Man - I'm jealous of all you Portland area people. I grew up there and did mixed terrain type riding on an old Mtn bike, which limited the distance a little (but not the fun). Wish I could find a way to get back there. @HR - I am also running those Marathons - 700 X 40C (622-42). They measure 41 mm tall and 40 mm wide on synergy velocity rims. Dylan On Apr 25, 6:25 am, Mike wrote: > @Me: Thanks, enjoy the route. There's a few sections with traffic and > no shoulder but I'm sure you'll manage, just be mindful. This was my > first time riding this route on the weekend and there was way less > traffic than on a weekday. > > @HR: I don't know what the true measurement of the tires is. I imagine > less than 40, possibly around 37.5 but I don't know for sure. I > mentioned in some other threads I've been using JBs and Panaracer T- > Serves both of which are fine. These tires feel heavy but not as > "dead" as I would imagine. They're definitely better for dirt > excursions than the JBs or T-serves. I imagine before summer is over > I'll try some Marathon Supremes in 700x40. > > As for clothing, no chaffing. Last summer I toured for 8 days in a > similar kit (MUSA shorts rather than knickers). The longest I've > ridden in this kind of kit was 120 miles last year. It's fine. > > I did have a rain jacket with me, a fairly nice Shower's Pass. I don't > know. I'm pretty tired of all rain jackets. All of them flap > excessively in the wind and after a while they all get kind steamy and > uncomfortable. Wool keeps you warm even when it's wet... to a point. I > can't remember what model SP jacket this is but I gotta say, I almost > enjoy my REI budget model jacket better, it's just a lot bulkier. But > you know, if I'm gonna be riding with luggage (Carradice bag) I might > as well bring it instead of the SP. > > --mike > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?
" . . . Just a wonderful feeling to have a dialed in ride!" Amen brother! I think everyone can agree this is one of life's indisputable truths. On Apr 22, 8:34 pm, Michael_S wrote: > Just got back for a mixed terrain ride on the 35 Pasleas... they are a > pretty sweet ride! Road at about 78 psi which is just right for me at > 187lbs ( just me) Fast on the pavement but good enuf in the dirt. Have > to pay attention in soft dirt corners at speed but otherwise a great > all around tire. Did I mention how well that Hillborne rides off > road? Just a wonderful feeling to have a dialed in ride! > > ~Mike~ > > On Apr 22, 8:13 pm, charlie wrote: > > > > > > > I have the plain black wall 35mm Paselas with wire bead and they are > > definitely easier to get up to speed on than my plain Jane 700x47 (41 > > actual) Marathons..but the Marathons are awesome when it comes to > > varied terrain and road shoulder junk. I even hit what appeared to be > > the remains of a paint scraper. It "wanged" off the tire and out to > > the side with no damage to the sidewall. I once hit a sharp, walnut > > sized rock with a Pasela and it tore at the sidewall and the tire was > > ruined. I run the Marathon pressures to around 60-70 psi which is max > > for this tire but I weigh in at a semi healthy 268 lbs. I hate fixing > > flats and I must have a reliable tire for commuting so I say, "go wide > > with pride" ! > > > On Apr 20, 8:32 pm, Earl Grey wrote: > > > > Hi, > > > > I am looking for a wider tire than my Jack Brown Greens, that is also > > > supple and has low rolling resistance (yes, a 700C Hetre). Does anyone > > > have experience with 2 out of these 3 tires and can compare them both > > > in terms of actual width and ride quality? > > > > There have been a couple of posts claiming the 35 and 37 Paselas are > > > both 36mm. Do they ride differently? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Gernot > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > > For more options, visit this group > > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.-Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Pasela 35/37 or Marathon Racer 38?
I would second this suggestion for heavier riders like myself (190 lbs.), but you might not need them if you're not concerned about durability. I was also trying to go wider than the JBs, and am very happy now with the Marathons. To me the tire is just as supple, but I also run them at a lower pressure than the JBs and again am a heavier rider. I have found that suppleness depends a lot on finding the pressure "sweet spot" of any given tire first before judging - I think this is the range where the tires are most forgiving without being slow and mushy. For me the Marathons have a pretty big "sweet spot". On Apr 20, 9:37 pm, Mike wrote: > You could just go with the basic wire bead Marathon that Riv sells: > > http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/schwalbe-marathon/10-068 > > They're not supple but they're not that bad, especially when you > consider the price. The model Riv sells measures 41 so it should fit > on the Hillborne. They're nice off road, durable and confidence > inspiring. > > mike > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.
Yes - I have read that before, but have been lazy. It just seemed so clean and easy to retire a set of tires at once (seriously - no pun intended - it caught me by surprise). Now, however, like many things in life I will give in to peer pressure and start rotating front to back. Thanks guys - it will be much safer. Dylan On Apr 21, 6:40 am, Mike wrote: > On Apr 20, 11:55 pm, CycloFiend wrote: > > > I stopped rotating tires after reading this: > >http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html > > If anything, I'll rotate the front to the rear only, now. > > > - J > > I was thinking the same thing Jim. Funny, I read that article for the > first time only about a week ago. It makes sense. > > --mike > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.
Hmmm - good question. I never considered that there could be an alignment issue. Everything else seems to indicate that it's well aligned - its an AHH with extremely quiet drivetrain, visually straight from the back, and the ride is smooth, stable and heavenly. The tires align perfectly with the rear fender. My experience has been that if I put on a set of JBs or Paselas (32C), and I let the tires get to about 1000 or 1100 without rotating, the rear tire will be toast (i.e. get a flat every other day from puncture). Once it gets to this point I have found it is too late to rotate them - the same tire will continue to flat once it gets to the front. I have had the same experience with 2 sets of JB greens and 1 set of JB blues. If I switch after 600 miles, I could probably get 1200 miles out of them. I found the Paselas to be almost exactly the same (however much cheaper). I also have had the beads separate from both types of tire around that mileage point. My riding conditions, however, may be very different from others. I commute to work year round in Tucson, AZ on fairly rough roads (lots of chip seal, but not many huge potholes). From May through August, all of my afternoon rides are at around 100 deg. I think I read on the Schwalbe website that high temperatures will accelerate tire wear. I also strap my work bag with clothes and stuff onto the rear rack. With bike lock and lunch, etc. it probably averages 25 lbs. I myself weigh about 200 lbs. For reference, before the AHH I commuted on a racing bike with a messenger bag. I consistently got 2000 out of the 25C tires I used. It's probably a combination of everything and I certainly enjoyed riding on both JBs and Paselas. It's just that I now may have found my "nirvana tire". The Schwalbes are bigger (running 622-42 HS 366 with fenders), very comfy and seem very durable. Of course, it's not a fair test yet since the Schwalbes only have 1000 miles on them. On Apr 20, 2:44 pm, Joe Bartoe wrote: > I have to ask. How does one burn through the JBs and why would only get 1000 > miles on the Paselas? I've ridden a pair of JBs for voer 1500 miles and they > still don't show a lot of wear. Others on the list claim that Pasela's wear > well. If you're really burning through the tires, especially on the rear, I'd > suggest having a shop check the alignment of your rear triangle. Something > doesn't sound right. > > Joe > > > > > > > Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:33:58 -0700 > > Subject: [RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance. > > From: dylanmcner...@yahoo.com > > To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com > > > I have also switched over to the Schwalbe Marathons - and I am shocked > > at how fast they roll and how durable they are. I got sick of burning > > through the JBs and tried similar sized Paselas, but they also only > > lasted for about 1000 mi. The marathons have about 1000 on them now > > with hardly any noticeable tread wear (and no flats). I ride about 30 > > mi a day to and from work and the peace of mind is great. I really > > thought I was making a compromise, trading weight and rolling > > resistance for durability, but that has not been the case. One caveat > > - I don't have a lot of hills on my route. They may be slower going > > uphill, but based on the way they feel every day, I wouldn't hesitate > > to ride up the mountains around here. > > > On Apr 19, 11:30 am, CycloFiend wrote: > > > on 4/19/10 9:12 AM, Mike at mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: > > > > > On Apr 18, 10:53 pm, Earl Grey wrote: > > > >> I do ride my JB greens off-road, though they are less fun than my 42mm > > > >> IRC Mythos XC Slicks. Have gotten one pinch flat on a high speed > > > >> descend on a gravel road with sharp fist-sized rocks, running around > > > >> 35-40 psi with a bike+rider weight of 210 lbs. > > > > >> Gernot > > > > > I think there are plenty of riders who can get by riding JB greens off > > > > road. Mark at Rivendell does and I think Cyclofiend has too. I weigh > > > > 190 and am magnetically drawn to every rut, rock, root and bad line > > > > when pedaling off road so it's just not a good idea for me. Then > > > > again, I've ridden 28s off road at times. It's really nice to have a > > > > bike the Hilsen or SH that provides lots of options. > > > > JB Greens are my choice. But, I have gotten pretty quick at on-the-trail > > > tube replacements over the years. ;^) > > > > Most of the local trails have some pretty sharp, rocky bits, which means > > > adding a bit more pressure. I think you'll find a lot of pinch flats at > > > that psi, if those are your conditions. On certain trails, I increase > > > pressure significantly. > > > > It's always a balance of comfort, control, pressure and technique. That's > > > the challenge I enjoy, and it doesn't always make for easy-breezy > > > descending. > > > > If you want lower pressures, increase the tire volume. JB's are nice and > > > fat and round, which give significant control, but things
[RBW] Re: Hilsen and tire clearance.
I have also switched over to the Schwalbe Marathons - and I am shocked at how fast they roll and how durable they are. I got sick of burning through the JBs and tried similar sized Paselas, but they also only lasted for about 1000 mi. The marathons have about 1000 on them now with hardly any noticeable tread wear (and no flats). I ride about 30 mi a day to and from work and the peace of mind is great. I really thought I was making a compromise, trading weight and rolling resistance for durability, but that has not been the case. One caveat - I don't have a lot of hills on my route. They may be slower going uphill, but based on the way they feel every day, I wouldn't hesitate to ride up the mountains around here. On Apr 19, 11:30 am, CycloFiend wrote: > on 4/19/10 9:12 AM, Mike at mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: > > > On Apr 18, 10:53 pm, Earl Grey wrote: > >> I do ride my JB greens off-road, though they are less fun than my 42mm > >> IRC Mythos XC Slicks. Have gotten one pinch flat on a high speed > >> descend on a gravel road with sharp fist-sized rocks, running around > >> 35-40 psi with a bike+rider weight of 210 lbs. > > >> Gernot > > > I think there are plenty of riders who can get by riding JB greens off > > road. Mark at Rivendell does and I think Cyclofiend has too. I weigh > > 190 and am magnetically drawn to every rut, rock, root and bad line > > when pedaling off road so it's just not a good idea for me. Then > > again, I've ridden 28s off road at times. It's really nice to have a > > bike the Hilsen or SH that provides lots of options. > > JB Greens are my choice. But, I have gotten pretty quick at on-the-trail > tube replacements over the years. ;^) > > Most of the local trails have some pretty sharp, rocky bits, which means > adding a bit more pressure. I think you'll find a lot of pinch flats at > that psi, if those are your conditions. On certain trails, I increase > pressure significantly. > > It's always a balance of comfort, control, pressure and technique. That's > the challenge I enjoy, and it doesn't always make for easy-breezy > descending. > > If you want lower pressures, increase the tire volume. JB's are nice and > fat and round, which give significant control, but things can get dicey when > when things are jagged. Of course, if you increase size even a little bit, > it feels like a monster truck. > > - J > > -- > Jim Edgar > cyclofi...@earthlink.net > > Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com > Current Classics - Cross Bikes > Singlespeed - Working Bikes > > Your Photos are needed! -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines > > "I thought the idea was to waste the rest of our lives together.." > -- Cyril, "Breaking Away" > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Saluki Done
Absolutely gorgeous. Is that the yellow tressostar tape? How many rolls did you use for each side of the bars, and what is your method? I thought I could use one for each side, but clearly not enough. Dylan On Mar 15, 4:08 pm, John Ferguson wrote: > Finally. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/36397...@n06/ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: burrito wrap secrets?
Oh yeah - I probably paid $4 for all the strappings and trappings at the local outdoor store. On Feb 24, 11:53 am, wile wrote: > M . . . I am currently eating a green chile burrito in Tucson, > AZ. I agree with Patrick - once you go green . . . > > My burrito wrap happens to be green also. Rather than toe straps, I > use two heavy duty nylon straps through the bag loops that I bought by > the foot (1 foot each). I have then threaded on some ubiquitous black > plastic clip together buckles like you would use for backpack straps. > The setup is bomb proof, very easy to get the burrito in and out, and > very tidy looking. I think a huge reason to use a 'ritowrap instead > of a seat bag is to be able to unroll it on the ground, regardless of > how you ultimately attach it. > > Dylan > > On Feb 20, 2:20 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote: > > > On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 2:06 PM, James Dinneen wrote: > > > All this seems like way too much trouble and chance. Why not just get a > > > small bag? Jim D. --Massachusetts > > > Amen, brother. The uses of the burrito wrap are: one, cheap: you can have > > one for all ten of your bikes and spend no more than $35. Two, disposable: > > if you lose it, big deal. Lend it to visiting cycling friends. But to use > > three toe straps (at what, $15 a pair?) ... > > > I use the burrito on my grocery beater, attached to the rails with 1 (one > > only) strap, which seems to work fine. > > > You can also do this: breakfast: scrambled eggs, chorizo, cubed potatoes > > preferably fried, and green chile; lunch and dinner: beans refried with > > cumin, onion and garlic, shreddar cheddar, and green chile; or best of all: > > small strips of sirloin marinated in whatever they use for burritos and > > which I don't know offhand, light sauteed onion and garlic, plus green > > chile. Flour tortillas, of course. Prepare store bought tortillas either by > > heating on hot cast iron griddle, or holding over gas flame with be-handled > > rack (my preference), or, after wetting both sides, heating in toaster oven. > > Never, ever nuke them. (Best burrito I ever ate was in Reserve, NM's only > > cafe (some miles south of Quemado, of course). > > > Patrick "green, always green" Moore --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: burrito wrap secrets?
M . . . I am currently eating a green chile burrito in Tucson, AZ. I agree with Patrick - once you go green . . . My burrito wrap happens to be green also. Rather than toe straps, I use two heavy duty nylon straps through the bag loops that I bought by the foot (1 foot each). I have then threaded on some ubiquitous black plastic clip together buckles like you would use for backpack straps. The setup is bomb proof, very easy to get the burrito in and out, and very tidy looking. I think a huge reason to use a 'ritowrap instead of a seat bag is to be able to unroll it on the ground, regardless of how you ultimately attach it. Dylan On Feb 20, 2:20 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote: > On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 2:06 PM, James Dinneen wrote: > > All this seems like way too much trouble and chance. Why not just get a > > small bag? Jim D. --Massachusetts > > Amen, brother. The uses of the burrito wrap are: one, cheap: you can have > one for all ten of your bikes and spend no more than $35. Two, disposable: > if you lose it, big deal. Lend it to visiting cycling friends. But to use > three toe straps (at what, $15 a pair?) ... > > I use the burrito on my grocery beater, attached to the rails with 1 (one > only) strap, which seems to work fine. > > You can also do this: breakfast: scrambled eggs, chorizo, cubed potatoes > preferably fried, and green chile; lunch and dinner: beans refried with > cumin, onion and garlic, shreddar cheddar, and green chile; or best of all: > small strips of sirloin marinated in whatever they use for burritos and > which I don't know offhand, light sauteed onion and garlic, plus green > chile. Flour tortillas, of course. Prepare store bought tortillas either by > heating on hot cast iron griddle, or holding over gas flame with be-handled > rack (my preference), or, after wetting both sides, heating in toaster oven. > Never, ever nuke them. (Best burrito I ever ate was in Reserve, NM's only > cafe (some miles south of Quemado, of course). > > Patrick "green, always green" Moore --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: burrito wrap secrets?
I carry a bunch of tools and stuff in mine - probably weighs about 4 lbs. I used to strap it to the rails with one strap, but it would always work itself loose. Now I use two straps through the seat loops and it is bomb-proof. Never even slips out of position, doesn't sway, etc. Dylan On Feb 19, 2:04 pm, Mike wrote: > I carry a tube, a Park multi-tool, tire lever, patch kit, and one or > two other small items which escape me. I secure it with a toe strap > and have had no problems with it coming loose. I wouldn't recommend it > for mountain biking, although it'll probably work, but it's fine for > the road. > > --Mike --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: EEK!!! Say it ain't so (Shimano Electronic Shiftng System)
Good idea Chris - I don't know much about SRAM. I am gradually switching over everthing to Campy so at least when individual parts break I can repair them. I think it's important to remember that component companies don't usually design each line independently. They design the VERY BEST for racers - Dura Ace, Super Record, etc., and then they cut corners to get the cost down for the lower component lines. This is also why features trickle down and last years Dura Ace is this year's Ultegra, etc. I can't wait to at some point have an all Record or Dura Ace bike to test my theory, but given current cashflow, that will be a while. D On Feb 17, 1:38 pm, Chris wrote: > Hmm, I didn't realize this...thanks Dylan! I'm really wanting to go > with Sram on my cross bike anyway! :) > > On Feb 17, 12:18 pm, wile wrote: > > > I'm with Jim on this one. I think higher price usually means parts > > are stronger and will last longer (though they may also weigh less). > > I used to believe the internet hype that the only difference between > > Ultegra and Dura Ace was weight, but after several Ultegra failures, I > > did some research. It turns out that (at least with the newer > > derailleurs) Dura Ace components are made with a higher quality alloy, > > and are cold-forged, which produces a much stronger product than the > > Ultegra parts, which use the traditional forging process. I was > > rather disappointed when my right shifter (Ultegra) failed after about > > 12K miles and then internet searches found hundreds of people who had > > experienced the same thing. However, Dura Ace failures don't seem so > > commonplace. After a couple more months, I had a catastrophic rear > > derailleur failure (Ultegra), where the inner cage plate simply broke > > in half. When I look closely at the metal where the break is, it > > almost looks like a cast part. You can tell the difference between > > the two metal processes by the level of polish on the parts, as well > > as the roundness of component angles when compared side by side. Both > > with Shimano and Campy, the more angular pieces, with various chamfers > > and detail indicate cold-forging, whereas the standard forging process > > seems to require bulbous pivot points, etc. I'm not in any way a > > metalurgist - this is just my perception from what I've read. I'm > > sure someone on the list can correct my assumptions. > > > Dylan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: EEK!!! Say it ain't so (Shimano Electronic Shiftng System)
I'm with Jim on this one. I think higher price usually means parts are stronger and will last longer (though they may also weigh less). I used to believe the internet hype that the only difference between Ultegra and Dura Ace was weight, but after several Ultegra failures, I did some research. It turns out that (at least with the newer derailleurs) Dura Ace components are made with a higher quality alloy, and are cold-forged, which produces a much stronger product than the Ultegra parts, which use the traditional forging process. I was rather disappointed when my right shifter (Ultegra) failed after about 12K miles and then internet searches found hundreds of people who had experienced the same thing. However, Dura Ace failures don't seem so commonplace. After a couple more months, I had a catastrophic rear derailleur failure (Ultegra), where the inner cage plate simply broke in half. When I look closely at the metal where the break is, it almost looks like a cast part. You can tell the difference between the two metal processes by the level of polish on the parts, as well as the roundness of component angles when compared side by side. Both with Shimano and Campy, the more angular pieces, with various chamfers and detail indicate cold-forging, whereas the standard forging process seems to require bulbous pivot points, etc. I'm not in any way a metalurgist - this is just my perception from what I've read. I'm sure someone on the list can correct my assumptions. Dylan On Feb 17, 1:00 pm, CycloFiend wrote: > on 2/17/09 11:04 AM, Chris at fourf...@gmail.com wrote: > > > On Feb 17, 7:52 am, Mike wrote: > >> On Feb 17, 6:29 am, clyde canter wrote: > >> Anyone following the Tour of California? It's been amazing to hear > >> about how many "mechanicals" riders are having due to the weather (I > >> guess). These are bikes that are maintained by professional mechanics > >> and they're crapping out in the neutral zone of a race? Yeah, go for > >> it, I'm sure electronic shifting will work much better. > > > Are most of these "mechanicals" not flat tires? Aside from that, it's > > pretty well known that the main difference between Dura Ace and > > Ultegra is weight...you have to reduce weight somewhere and there's a > > good chance it will make the piece of gear a little weaker. Now, most > > of use don't generate near the amount of watts to even come close to > > breaking Dura Ace derailures, so it's really not an issue for us. > > No amount of wattage increase is going to lead to a derailleur failure. It > simply is not stressed in that manner. > > Typically, the more expensive parts do not give measurably "better" > performance. Rather, they give good performance for a longer period of > time. > > Certainly, there are instances where the more expensive lighter parts wear > faster - the old XTR cassette with the Ti sprockets come to mind - which is > generally why it's not an optimum strategy to use lightweight race parts for > a more reliable-use purpose. > > - Jim > > -- > Jim Edgar > cyclofi...@earthlink.net > > Current Classics Bicycle Photo Gallery -http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc > Cross Bike Photo Gallery -http://www.cyclofiend.com/cx > Single Speed Garage Photo Gallery -http://www.cyclofiend.com/ssg > Working Bikes & Practical Hardware -http://www.cyclofiend.com/working > Work Shops of the iBob's -http://www.cyclofiend.com/shop > > Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines > > "That which is overdesigned, too highly specific, anticipates outcome; the > anticipation of outcome guarantees, if not failure, the absence of grace." > > William Gibson - "All Tomorrow's Parties" --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Biking Mt. Lemmon
And now that I reread my post let me clarify those details - strange what the mind becomes at the end of a long day. I used to typically ride a 39 x 25 gear (the lowest) on my relatively light (18 lb) gofast bike. Now I would use my 36 x 24 on the AHH. It's really not a steep hill, just long (but beautiful!). Total ascent is really only about 6,500 ft unless you take the last right turn before Summerhaven. That section takes you up to the ski resort and is roughly a 10% - 11% grade. Dylan On Feb 17, 6:34 am, wile wrote: > Oops - meant 39 :) > > On Feb 16, 10:52 pm, rob markwardt wrote: > > > You climb 9000ft mountains on a 53? What's it take to get you onto > > the small ring:)? > > > > I used to always ride a 53 x 25 gear on my gofast bike. Now that I > > > have the AHH, I would probably use my 50 x 24 most of the way - maybe > > > 50 x 27 in steeper sections. > > > > Dylan > > > > On Feb 15, 7:34 pm, Ted Durant wrote: > > > > > So, the plan is to ride up Mt. Lemmon in two weeks. Any Tucson or > > > > Phoenix BOBs with advice? What are we likely to encounter for weather? > > > > > Ted Durant > > > > Milwaukee, WI- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Biking Mt. Lemmon
Oops - meant 39 :) On Feb 16, 10:52 pm, rob markwardt wrote: > You climb 9000ft mountains on a 53? What's it take to get you onto > the small ring:)? > > > > > I used to always ride a 53 x 25 gear on my gofast bike. Now that I > > have the AHH, I would probably use my 50 x 24 most of the way - maybe > > 50 x 27 in steeper sections. > > > Dylan > > > On Feb 15, 7:34 pm, Ted Durant wrote: > > > > So, the plan is to ride up Mt. Lemmon in two weeks. Any Tucson or > > > Phoenix BOBs with advice? What are we likely to encounter for weather? > > > > Ted Durant > > > Milwaukee, WI- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Biking Mt. Lemmon
I have ridden up Lemmon many times. There are several milepoints to remember: Mile 6 - Molino Basin - restroom. Mile 14 - Windy Point Vista - restroom. Mile 21 - Palisades - WATER, restroom (this spigot is the first place to get water). This time of year, you could probably get up to palisades on two large bottles. The water is located at a turnout on the right side of the road. If you see the ranger station on the left, you have gone about 50 feet too far. Mile 25 - Summerhaven - small town with a restaurant to get pie!, pizza place, homeade fudge, etc. Other considerations: Most important - it is always 20 to 25 degrees colder at the top than the bottom, so make sure to have a jacket or something for the descent. Also - keep this in mind as you start up the hill on Catalina Hwy, you will see the first switchback above you on the right. It looks MUCH steeper than it actually is. The whole mountain is about a 4% grade. The last two miles at the top drop downhill into Summerhaven and you have to climb out on your way back, but it's not that bad. I used to always ride a 53 x 25 gear on my gofast bike. Now that I have the AHH, I would probably use my 50 x 24 most of the way - maybe 50 x 27 in steeper sections. Dylan On Feb 15, 7:34 pm, Ted Durant wrote: > So, the plan is to ride up Mt. Lemmon in two weeks. Any Tucson or > Phoenix BOBs with advice? What are we likely to encounter for weather? > > Ted Durant > Milwaukee, WI --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Shimagnolo
Just built up the Shimagnolo groupset on my AHH. I'm sure many of you have done this. The impetus for me was that my right Ultegra shifter wore out unexpectedly. I had a planned ride to do - the El Tour de Tucson (yes we always say "the El . . ."), so I stole my wife's ultegra shifter for the ride. After a week it also stopped working and I thought - there has to be another way! Not wanting to have to retire shifters when they stop working, I bought some Veloce shifters (10sp) and a Shiftmate, and these are my observations so far. The JTek Shiftmate was very easy to install once I read the diagram correctly. Once it was on, I simply forgot about it. The quickness of the shifting is excellent, to the point where sometimes it's so fast you're not sure if it shifted (though it did). I like Campy's thumb button for shifting to smaller cogs and chainring - it has a very positive feel and I don't have any problems reaching it from the drops. At first I didn't like the hoods on the Campy shifters as much, but am now getting used to them. I have large hands and felt that maybe they were designed for small hands, but ultimately they just require a slightly different hand position. I love the pivot point and relative reach on the break levers. I have the Silver sidepull brake calipers from Riv, which some have described as "mushy" in the past. I have experienced this too, and though I never really minded it, the leverage I get with the Campy levers with the same amount of effort stops the bike immediately. It is easy to skid the tire even when braking from the hoods. Lastly, I think I like having the shift housing hidden underneath the bar tape. It just cleans up the whole area. I don't ride with a box bag (or any bag) on the front, but I imagine this would make it more functional. I'd be curious about other's observations in mixing Shimano and Campy - I can't see any reason not to do it in the future. Dylan --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Are all AHH's created equal for tire clearance?
My 63 cm Toyo frame has the dimples. Not sure if a 42 would fit - I have 38mm tires on it right now with fenders. I believe it would fit a 42, but not with fenders. Dylan On Dec 4, 10:44 am, Forrest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > In photos of what I think are later-run, Toyo-built Hilsens, it > appears that the chainstays have a "dimple" on the inside at about the > point the tire passes through. Or maybe that's an optical illusion? My > 59cm AHH, which the original owner told me was from an early batch out > of Waterford, does not have such dimples on the inside of the > chainstays. When I mounted a Schwalbe Marathon XR 42-622 / 700x40c > tire on a Synergy Velocity rim, it did not clear in the rear -- and by > RBW's published specs, it should have. I've got 37-622 / 700x35c of > the same tires in there now, and they fit fine (and work great), but a > 40 or 42 would never fit on mine. Is it possible that some of the very > early AHH's are different in this regard than later ones? -- Forrest > (Iowa City) > > P.S. I know there are no quality differences to speak of between Toyo > and Waterford Hilsens. I just wondered if the design of the chainstays > (and thus the tire clearance) evolved ever-so-slightly from the first > AHH's to later ones. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Creaky Brooks 17 Saddle
Agreed - if you're sure it's not the seat post, bolt, or rails, it is where the metal contacts dry leather. My B17 started creaking almost exactly after 2000 miles. I turned it upside down and crammed some of the same Obenauf stuff that goes on the top between the metal tensioner and leather (back of saddle). Not a creak since. On Nov 25, 7:04 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > So, while everyone has a slightly different method, Scott, that may or may > not work, you'd cover all of the bases if you turn the bike upside down and > spray some oil all over the seat, rails, and seat post. Hey, you're a guy - > you > can fix anything with a little WD-40 and duct tape. > Bill > > In a message dated 11/25/2008 8:55:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > Mine creaked. One drop of any good penetrating lube on either side of the > nose bracket where the rail passes through got rid of it forever. > > **One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, > and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com > today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?red... > %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom0001) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Weight limit for A.H.H
I agree with MKahrl. I weigh 200 and have put 35-40# on the back a couple of times without ill effects. The load was actually strapped to the top of my rear rack, which is a terrible way to carry it, but worked fine. It actually didn't feel a lot different than my usual 15-20#, except of course I was slower. There would be some potential front wheel instability (flop) if I took my hands off the bars, but I'm not one to go no-hands with 40# on the bike. Sway can also relate to the stiffness of the rack. I'm using the Nitto Big Back Rack (Campee) and that is plenty stiff for this kind of load. Dylan On Nov 25, 10:43 am, MKahrl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Subjective opinion. The most I've loaded an AHH with is 240 lbs but I > have hit a few rain filled potholes at speed while sitting in the > saddle with no ill affects to the bike. I agree that the tubes would > most likely buckle before breaking. I ran a Falcon bicycle into a > car at full speed and shortened the wheel base by 12 inches. The top > and down tubes crumpled but remained intact and the front wheel did > not even need retruing. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Good Tail Light for Nitto Rear Rack?
I just ordered a "Super Flash" made by Planet Bike: http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3034.html with a bracket that they also make to go on my Nitto rear rack: http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3108.html Dylan On Sep 9, 9:26 am, Rick Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello, > > Does anyone have a recommendation for a tail light that can fit on a > Nitto Rear Rack(http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bags_and_racks? > page=all#product=20-022)? Dynamo-powered preferably, battery-powered > is all right. > > Or, does anyone know of another source that has these tail lights in > stock:http://www.jitensha.com/eng/taillamps05.htmlthey're pictured > on (I think) John's Hiluki. > > Thanks in advance for any help! > > Sincerely, > > Rick Smith > [EMAIL PROTECTED]://www.yehudamoon.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
