Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I think you're more likely to see a Rivendell disc frame than a Riv Silver 
internal hub.

On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 3:36:48 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Got it; and as an exercise in "Hey! You know, you can do this!" it's 
> interesting; but it's also like driving from LA to NYC by way of Copacabana 
> or, to quote the Chesterton poem, "The night we went to Birmingham by way 
> of Beachy Head."
>
> I was sortakinda hoping that Riv was developing its own Silver 3 speed IGH.
>
> On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 1:22 PM, Joe Bernard  > wrote:
>
>> Tis here. 3-speed that can be converted to a full triple with one shifter 
>> cable.
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/bikeoweek-1
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Patrick Moore]

Got it; and as an exercise in "Hey! You know, you can do this!" it's
interesting; but it's also like driving from LA to NYC by way of Copacabana
or, to quote the Chesterton poem, "The night we went to Birmingham by way
of Beachy Head."

I was sortakinda hoping that Riv was developing its own Silver 3 speed IGH.

On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 1:22 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Tis here. 3-speed that can be converted to a full triple with one shifter
> cable.
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/bikeoweek-1
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Tis here. 3-speed that can be converted to a full triple with one shifter 
cable. 

https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/bikeoweek-1

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Patrick Moore]

I mean: I saw reference to it in Knothole, but no picture of the bike. Late
to the party, I know, but ...?

On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 1:05 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Where can one find this? 3 cogs, 3 rings, IGH?
>
> On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 12:52 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> I was at RBW yesterday and saw the Clem L "3-speed" Grant is selling.
>> $1650 today, bottoms out at $1600 Saturday, 1/27. It's super nice and
>> that's a raging deal all set up with an XT derailer, Brooks saddle,
>> Bullmoose Boscos and a BananaSax. It's a good thing it doesn't fit me,
>> otherwise I would have taken it home yesterday. It's sweet!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Patrick Moore]

Where can one find this? 3 cogs, 3 rings, IGH?

On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 12:52 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I was at RBW yesterday and saw the Clem L "3-speed" Grant is selling.
> $1650 today, bottoms out at $1600 Saturday, 1/27. It's super nice and
> that's a raging deal all set up with an XT derailer, Brooks saddle,
> Bullmoose Boscos and a BananaSax. It's a good thing it doesn't fit me,
> otherwise I would have taken it home yesterday. It's sweet!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

I was at RBW yesterday and saw the Clem L "3-speed" Grant is selling. $1650 
today, bottoms out at $1600 Saturday, 1/27. It's super nice and that's a raging 
deal all set up with an XT derailer, Brooks saddle, Bullmoose Boscos and a 
BananaSax. It's a good thing it doesn't fit me, otherwise I would have taken it 
home yesterday. It's sweet!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Diego: The Paul instructions say to size with the small chainring putting the 
rear pulleys at vertical. I have a little more chain than that 'cause I bought 
a SRAM 8 chain and just tossed it on there without removing any links. This 
gives me a little more leeway to replace the bashguard with a 3rd larger 
chaining to convert to a 3×1 like Grant's Clem if I want. There's a loop I do 
around here that has a long sorta-downhill that isn't quite steep enough to 
cruise without pedaling - I slow down, pedal some more, slow down again - so I 
might add that top gear for it. If you're converting a bike with shorter 
chainstays I would recommend  using the Paul Melvin instructions. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Diego J. Garza]

Joe - that's a beautiful bike there! Love the 2x1 concept. I'd love to know 
how you went about sizing the chain for your setup. Was it based on bigger 
chain ring + the rear sprocket, assuming the tensioner would take care of 
the rest when shifting to smaller chainring? giving me some ideas with 
stuff in the parts bin 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Belopsky]

Oh Frank Jones..wonder how far away we are from seeing them. im going to be 
optimistic and say end of February

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 12:20:03 PM UTC-5, Arthur Mayfield wrote:
>
>
>
> I love quirky bikes like this Clem. My Sam has been, at various times, a 
> one speed, 2x7/8/9, two speed Auto, and currently a 1x9, with drops, North 
> Road, and porteur bars, road, city, and reverse levers, bar end, thumbie, 
> stem, and DT shifters, and front, back, or both racks, as well as numerous 
> other minor configuration changes. I have an almost completed restoration 
> of an old Trek 810 ladies that's now a 1x8 city bike, and a Bianchi Milano 
> with the fattest tires I could fit and a coaster hub (my lightweight beach 
> bike). I have two possible hubs awaiting my new Frank Jones Jr—A Grand Cru 
> flip/flop with a 17/19 double freewheel on one side and a 22 freewheel on 
> the other, and a SunXCD with a Compass 14-28 cassette ('cause who wouldn't 
> want to build a 120mm hub 2x6 road bike out of a new SS with track 
> dropouts, lol). I haven't built either hub into wheels yet because I want 
> to verify whether the frame will take 650b rims, or if I'll have to do the 
> expected thing and buy some 700c's. Vive la difference!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

30 watt - it is a cheap POS that is on it's last legs (takes forever to 
warm up), but the tip has a groove/curve in the end that holds the solder 
perfectly. I have been shopping for a new one.

Laing

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 2:11:26 PM UTC-5, George Schick wrote:

> I agree with Steve - I've always found it impossible to solder the newer 
> stainless cable ends, too.  But I don't like the hassle of using end crimps 
> and having to remove them every time I need to take a cable out (not to 
> mention, as you say, risking the fraying of the cable).  I'll have to give 
> your method a try.  What wattage soldering iron did you use?
>
>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Adding this to the "2-speed Rivs" thread 'caause I finally got some sunny day 
pics and feel like showing it off. Just added Woody's Chop Chort fenders which 
make no sense on a bike with huge tire/fender clearance, but I'm going for a 
Minimalist Riv vibe here. I usually run an olive BarTube and small RivSack, but 
I wanted the bike itself to show better for pics. Enjoy, people who enjoy 
things!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/OZ1SkJOSDYZPGHF93

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[George Schick]

I agree with Steve - I've always found it impossible to solder the newer 
stainless cable ends, too.  But I don't like the hassle of using end crimps 
and having to remove them every time I need to take a cable out (not to 
mention, as you say, risking the fraying of the cable).  I'll have to give 
your method a try.  What wattage soldering iron did you use?

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:53:38 PM UTC-6, lconley wrote:
>
> 96%tin/4%silver solder and No.78 Stainless Soldering Flux from H 
> Electronics (California City, CA) is what I use. Be patient with the flux, 
> I pour some into the bottle cap and dip the cable end and let it sit for a 
> while, then rinse with water and do it again except don't rinse before 
> soldering. Make sure to have a CLEAN HOT soldering iron, put a small amount 
> solder on the tip of the iron (I have the iron in a stand) and stroke the 
> end of the cable through the molten solder. If the solder doesn't flow into 
> the cable, clean and re-flux. Be stingy with the solder, you don't want 
> build-up on the outside of the cable (makes feeding it through the housing 
> difficult), but you need it to wick into the cable. You can correct buildup 
> on the cable with a small fine file.
>
> Laing
>
> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:13:42 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>> How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
>> impossible to do.  What's the trick? 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Arthur Mayfield]

I love quirky bikes like this Clem. My Sam has been, at various times, a 
one speed, 2x7/8/9, two speed Auto, and currently a 1x9, with drops, North 
Road, and porteur bars, road, city, and reverse levers, bar end, thumbie, 
stem, and DT shifters, and front, back, or both racks, as well as numerous 
other minor configuration changes. I have an almost completed restoration 
of an old Trek 810 ladies that's now a 1x8 city bike, and a Bianchi Milano 
with the fattest tires I could fit and a coaster hub (my lightweight beach 
bike). I have two possible hubs awaiting my new Frank Jones Jr—A Grand Cru 
flip/flop with a 17/19 double freewheel on one side and a 22 freewheel on 
the other, and a SunXCD with a Compass 14-28 cassette ('cause who wouldn't 
want to build a 120mm hub 2x6 road bike out of a new SS with track 
dropouts, lol). I haven't built either hub into wheels yet because I want 
to verify whether the frame will take 650b rims, or if I'll have to do the 
expected thing and buy some 700c's. Vive la difference!

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Belopsky]

Spend the money on a nice tool. Klein or Felco, though I spend just a tad 
bit on something else Made in Japan

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

Nah, Joe, you got your Chev set up to ride it like I ride my Betz - you’ll be 
able to hang with me up those hills in no time! Especially of you get the fancy 
schmancy new bar tape job - guaranteed to make you at least 10% faster uphill!

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

I must admit that I have had less fraying since I bought a Park Cable 
Cutter. The Craftsman side cutters squashed the cable and encouraged 
fraying. I change components around a lot between bikes and pull a lot of 
cables. I try to avoid poking myself in the eye with the cable ends...

Laing

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:50:10 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> I guess I rarely remove cables unless they are coming off. But when I do, 
> I don't usually get fraying. I do leave them a wee bit long in case I need 
> to trim.
>
> Here's an interesting thread on BF about soldering cable ends. One guy 
> mentions using brass tubing. Another points out that soldered cable is 
> about as sharp as non-capped cable, and can puncture skin:
>
>
> https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/775181-soldering-end-bicycle-shift-brake-cable.html
>
>
>
>

 . 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Sky Coulter]

Nice!

Thanks for the detail...sky in new west

> On Jan 19, 2018, at 1:53 PM, lconley  wrote:
> 
> 96%tin/4%silver solder and No.78 Stainless Soldering Flux from H 
> Electronics (California City, CA) is what I use. Be patient with the flux, I 
> pour some into the bottle cap and dip the cable end and let it sit for a 
> while, then rinse with water and do it again except don't rinse before 
> soldering. Make sure to have a CLEAN HOT soldering iron, put a small amount 
> solder on the tip of the iron (I have the iron in a stand) and stroke the end 
> of the cable through the molten solder. If the solder doesn't flow into the 
> cable, clean and re-flux. Be stingy with the solder, you don't want build-up 
> on the outside of the cable (makes feeding it through the housing difficult), 
> but you need it to wick into the cable. You can correct buildup on the cable 
> with a small fine file.
> 
> Laing
> 
>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:13:42 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>> How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
>> impossible to do.  What's the trick? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Deacon Patrick]

Brilliant, Leah. Absoultely brilliant!

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

96%tin/4%silver solder and No.78 Stainless Soldering Flux from H 
Electronics (California City, CA) is what I use. Be patient with the flux, 
I pour some into the bottle cap and dip the cable end and let it sit for a 
while, then rinse with water and do it again except don't rinse before 
soldering. Make sure to have a CLEAN HOT soldering iron, put a small amount 
solder on the tip of the iron (I have the iron in a stand) and stroke the 
end of the cable through the molten solder. If the solder doesn't flow into 
the cable, clean and re-flux. Be stingy with the solder, you don't want 
build-up on the outside of the cable (makes feeding it through the housing 
difficult), but you need it to wick into the cable. You can correct buildup 
on the cable with a small fine file.

Laing

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:13:42 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

> How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
> impossible to do.  What's the trick? 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Leah Bicycle Belle Ding Ding Lady, I suspect you have insane climbing legs that 
would leave most of us old dudes in a cloud of whimpers and "oh yeah, I gotta 
turn around and do some chores, you go on now." You're the only person I know 
who has a surfeit of gears and just forgets to downshift  

Joe "you go on now" Bernard
Novato CA. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I guess I rarely remove cables unless they are coming off. But when I do, I 
don't usually get fraying. I do leave them a wee bit long in case I need to 
trim.

Here's an interesting thread on BF about soldering cable ends. One guy 
mentions using brass tubing. Another points out that soldered cable is 
about as sharp as non-capped cable, and can puncture skin:

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/775181-soldering-end-bicycle-shift-brake-cable.html



On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:04:54 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
> fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
> reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable stays 
> together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that is paid 
> back over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike shops crimp to 
> save the bike shops time and money, but down the road it costs the owner 
> money in having to replace frayed cables. Soldered SS cables basically last 
> forever - kind of like buying a steel frame because it is not disposable.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:19:30 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
>> Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the 
>> Clems? Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a 
>> bicycle repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't 
>> need to figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or 
>> coated cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of 
>> advantages, other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't 
>> get it either Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or 
>> you lose the full aesthetic punch;^)
>>
>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
>>> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
>>> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
>>> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
>>> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
>>> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
>>> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
>>> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
>>> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
>>> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> . 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

I wouldn't begin to know how to solder, and I don't see myself ever learning. 
More money into the economy for new cables, I say! (I'm gonna have Grant put 
some copper on mine when I take the bike in for his Fancy Schmantzy Bar Wrap)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Sky Coulter]

Thanks for the tip Laing, i’m totally getting out the soldering iron next time 
i do maintenance, it sounds like a nice solution to cable fray to me.

Sky in new west
(Who has lazily been using beeswax on the cable ends for sometime now)

> On Jan 19, 2018, at 1:04 PM, lconley  wrote:
> 
> The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
> fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
> reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable stays 
> together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that is paid back 
> over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike shops crimp to save 
> the bike shops time and money, but down the road it costs the owner money in 
> having to replace frayed cables. Soldered SS cables basically last forever - 
> kind of like buying a steel frame because it is not disposable.
> 
> Laing
> 
> 
>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:19:30 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>> Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the Clems? 
>> Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a bicycle 
>> repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't need to 
>> figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or coated 
>> cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of advantages, 
>> other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't get it either 
>> Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or you lose the 
>> full aesthetic punch;^)
>> 
>>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
>>> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
>>> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
>>> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
>>> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
>>> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
>>> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
>>> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
>>> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
>>> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>>> 
>>> Laing
>>> 
>>> .
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Steve Palincsar]

How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
impossible to do.  What's the trick?



On 01/19/2018 04:04 PM, lconley wrote:
The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable 
stays together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that 
is paid back over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike 
shops crimp to save the bike shops time and money, but down the road 
it costs the owner money in having to replace frayed cables. Soldered 
SS cables basically last forever - kind of like buying a steel frame 
because it is not disposable.


Laing



--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable stays 
together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that is paid 
back over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike shops crimp to 
save the bike shops time and money, but down the road it costs the owner 
money in having to replace frayed cables. Soldered SS cables basically last 
forever - kind of like buying a steel frame because it is not disposable.

Laing


On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:19:30 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the 
> Clems? Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a 
> bicycle repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't 
> need to figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or 
> coated cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of 
> advantages, other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't 
> get it either Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or 
> you lose the full aesthetic punch;^)
>
> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>
>> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
>> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
>> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
>> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
>> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
>> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
>> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
>> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
>> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
>> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> . 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Funny, I have my Clementine up for sale, but was contemplating some sort of 
single speed setup if it doesn't sell. I could get with the 3 on front, but 
I'd want a single cog on the back.

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 2:45:35 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The derailer forced into a singlespeed position with a cable starting at 
> the rear stop is hilarious. It looks cool and I don't even know why!

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

This double single speed idea - I wonder if this is what I've actually been 
doing all along - and if so, I was cool before it was cool to be cool. My Betty 
is from 2012, and has the traditional friction shifters and two chainrings up 
front, and several in the back. However, I only use 2 gears. I never, ever 
shift the rear gears, and I will only shift to the granny cog up front when 
climbing the unreasonable hill near home. I never think to shift any other 
time. The way the bike feels is normal to me, and I never feel the itch to mess 
with it. I don't know if the gears are simply perfect for me, thus no need to 
change, or if my legs have become one with this bike. I suspect the latter.

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the Clems? 
Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a 
bicycle repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't 
need to figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or 
coated cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of 
advantages, other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't 
get it either Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or 
you lose the full aesthetic punch;^)

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>
> Laing
>
> . 
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Drew: I understand it. My new Cheviot uses a single cog in the back and two 
rings with derailer up front. This works for me as two versions of a 
singlespeed on a ride because I would never be able to talk myself out of 
shifting the rear if I had a whole cassette available. The hill gets steep, I 
get tired..that grind is going to be alleviated by a shift at some point. 

Of course it's a bit silly to build a full-cassette bike only to lock out the 
rear, but Grant is going with the idea that you can buy it and change it later 
if you want. Actually now that I think about it, I paid for a Paul Melvin, a 
single cog and two Gear Clamps. I didn't save any money - and probably not much 
weight - over doing it Grant's way! 臘

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.

Laing

. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Christopher Murray]

I think this looks like a fun bike and a great experiment. I’d wager this bike 
will be set up as a standard 3x9 within a few months. Maybe not. If I bought it 
I’d prob keep it this way because I have other bikes and I think it’s cool that 
Riv built it this way. 

It makes absolutely no rational sense and that makes me love it. 

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[drew]

this is bonkers. i love it. I have to say, i don't understand the 
single-speedifying with multi speed parts that they are doing recently 
(wouldnt it be easier just to tell yourself not to shift), but it is 
hilarious to see them go to such elaborate lengths to make it happen. 


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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[David Scelfo]

If only the "shifter" was cabled to ring a tire mounted bell.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ventura-Ultra-Loud-Tire-Bicycle-Bell-420195/205151369

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