[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-23 Thread spencer robinson
Wow!  That was really nice of you and Bill to take the time to pass all 
that on. I am adding that to my bike knowledge section of my brain!
I know a guy that had one of those Bitex hubs and it was making a noise 
that bothered him, he wound up replacing the hub with a White 
Industries...I gotta ask him if he still has the old hub, maybe I can get 
it fixed up. 

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 9:28:58 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Good work.  It sounds like you'll get it sorted.  I'm glad I could point 
> you to the right area
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 11:21:53 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>
>> Thank you, Bill.  You got me to open the freehub again and remove all of 
>> the pawls and springs.  I tried to put it back with 3 pawls, but the 
>> retaining ring wouldn't hold just three of them in place very well.  They 
>> were flopping all over the place and had so much play that the return 
>> springs did nothing.  Which got me to thinking about the strength of the 
>> return springs under the pawls.  The "spring" of the pawls was really weak 
>> when I pushed down on them, even with all six in.   They barely popped back 
>> up.  To the point that the hub made almost no ratcheting noise when 
>> coasting.  Very quiet except for the occasional pinging.   I actually 
>> remarked to my wife how strangely quiet the hub was, much quieter than the 
>> XT hubs on my Atlantis and far quieter than any other hubs I've had.  I 
>> figured it was a design feature.  
>>
>> Long story short, I pulled on the springs a bit to elongate them just 
>> slightly and then put the hub back together.  It's buzzing nicely now, the 
>> click of the pawls ratcheting is not perfectly simultaneous but much closer 
>> (you were spot on about that!), AND I can't make it ping anymore.  The 
>> pawls have more force pushing them against the ratchet in the hub now.  I 
>> don't know why the springs wouldn't have been like that out of the box.  
>>
>> I'll have to test it some more tomorrow to see if that really took care 
>> of it, but it seems to have made it better for the moment. 
>>
>> Thanks again for the detailed analysis.  Very helpful!   
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:27:45 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> OK, you answers are all as I expected.  I don't like the idea of six 
>>> pawls.  It's what we call an overdetermined system.  The idea with six 
>>> pawls is that each carry 1/6th of the load, but in order for that to 
>>> happen, the machining has to be absolutely positively perfect.  The 
>>> hardness of pawls themselves is extremely hard.  The hardness of the 
>>> splined drive shell is extremely hard.  All six have to hit their groove 
>>> perfectly.  Imagine building a wooden table with six legs out of hard oak 
>>> in your garage.  It would be really hard to build that table with such 
>>> precision that all six legs carry 1/6th of the weight of the table.  It 
>>> would be hard to even get all 6 legs to reach the ground.  
>>>
>>> I suspect the requirement for absolute perfection is not attainable 
>>> every single time with hubs with that design.  You might get lucky and have 
>>> all six perfect, and you may be unlucky.  To convince yourself that you are 
>>> just a little unlucky, turn the freehub body backwards as slowly as you 
>>> can.  If it was manufactured perfectly, you will hear one CLICK, but it's 
>>> really all six clicks happening simultaneously.  See if you move slowly 
>>> enough to separate the clicks.  I suspect you'll find it easy to identify 
>>> that there is one early, or one late.  
>>>
>>> To prove this is the cause, the test I recommend is to do exactly what 
>>> you'd do with your six-legged table: change it to a three-legged table.  A 
>>> three-legged table self-levels because it can.  Remove three of the six 
>>> pawls and ride your bike.   I bet a dollar the PING is gone.  
>>>
>>> If that works as I expect, then you have something to discuss with your 
>>> builder.  I personally think that six pawl design is dumb and three pawls 
>>> is ample.  I think "upgrading" from 6 to 3 is an improvement.  I'd just use 
>>> the wheel with three pawls and have a three spare pawls on hand.  You may 
>>> decide it's a manufacturing defect and demand a new wheel under some kind 
>>> of warranty.  I won't instruct you how to resolve the issue. 
>>>
>>> best of luck
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:34:15 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>>>

 [image: Hub_01.jpg][image: Hub_02.jpg]

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-22 Thread Litho
Took it out for 30 minutes and it sounds normal now, with no pinging / 
catching noise.  I think I'll consider the case closed!

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 6:28:58 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Good work.  It sounds like you'll get it sorted.  I'm glad I could point 
> you to the right area
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 11:21:53 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>
>> Thank you, Bill.  You got me to open the freehub again and remove all of 
>> the pawls and springs.  I tried to put it back with 3 pawls, but the 
>> retaining ring wouldn't hold just three of them in place very well.  They 
>> were flopping all over the place and had so much play that the return 
>> springs did nothing.  Which got me to thinking about the strength of the 
>> return springs under the pawls.  The "spring" of the pawls was really weak 
>> when I pushed down on them, even with all six in.   They barely popped back 
>> up.  To the point that the hub made almost no ratcheting noise when 
>> coasting.  Very quiet except for the occasional pinging.   I actually 
>> remarked to my wife how strangely quiet the hub was, much quieter than the 
>> XT hubs on my Atlantis and far quieter than any other hubs I've had.  I 
>> figured it was a design feature.  
>>
>> Long story short, I pulled on the springs a bit to elongate them just 
>> slightly and then put the hub back together.  It's buzzing nicely now, the 
>> click of the pawls ratcheting is not perfectly simultaneous but much closer 
>> (you were spot on about that!), AND I can't make it ping anymore.  The 
>> pawls have more force pushing them against the ratchet in the hub now.  I 
>> don't know why the springs wouldn't have been like that out of the box.  
>>
>> I'll have to test it some more tomorrow to see if that really took care 
>> of it, but it seems to have made it better for the moment. 
>>
>> Thanks again for the detailed analysis.  Very helpful!   
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:27:45 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> OK, you answers are all as I expected.  I don't like the idea of six 
>>> pawls.  It's what we call an overdetermined system.  The idea with six 
>>> pawls is that each carry 1/6th of the load, but in order for that to 
>>> happen, the machining has to be absolutely positively perfect.  The 
>>> hardness of pawls themselves is extremely hard.  The hardness of the 
>>> splined drive shell is extremely hard.  All six have to hit their groove 
>>> perfectly.  Imagine building a wooden table with six legs out of hard oak 
>>> in your garage.  It would be really hard to build that table with such 
>>> precision that all six legs carry 1/6th of the weight of the table.  It 
>>> would be hard to even get all 6 legs to reach the ground.  
>>>
>>> I suspect the requirement for absolute perfection is not attainable 
>>> every single time with hubs with that design.  You might get lucky and have 
>>> all six perfect, and you may be unlucky.  To convince yourself that you are 
>>> just a little unlucky, turn the freehub body backwards as slowly as you 
>>> can.  If it was manufactured perfectly, you will hear one CLICK, but it's 
>>> really all six clicks happening simultaneously.  See if you move slowly 
>>> enough to separate the clicks.  I suspect you'll find it easy to identify 
>>> that there is one early, or one late.  
>>>
>>> To prove this is the cause, the test I recommend is to do exactly what 
>>> you'd do with your six-legged table: change it to a three-legged table.  A 
>>> three-legged table self-levels because it can.  Remove three of the six 
>>> pawls and ride your bike.   I bet a dollar the PING is gone.  
>>>
>>> If that works as I expect, then you have something to discuss with your 
>>> builder.  I personally think that six pawl design is dumb and three pawls 
>>> is ample.  I think "upgrading" from 6 to 3 is an improvement.  I'd just use 
>>> the wheel with three pawls and have a three spare pawls on hand.  You may 
>>> decide it's a manufacturing defect and demand a new wheel under some kind 
>>> of warranty.  I won't instruct you how to resolve the issue. 
>>>
>>> best of luck
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:34:15 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>>>

 [image: Hub_01.jpg][image: Hub_02.jpg]

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-22 Thread Bill Lindsay
Good work.  It sounds like you'll get it sorted.  I'm glad I could point 
you to the right area

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 11:21:53 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:

> Thank you, Bill.  You got me to open the freehub again and remove all of 
> the pawls and springs.  I tried to put it back with 3 pawls, but the 
> retaining ring wouldn't hold just three of them in place very well.  They 
> were flopping all over the place and had so much play that the return 
> springs did nothing.  Which got me to thinking about the strength of the 
> return springs under the pawls.  The "spring" of the pawls was really weak 
> when I pushed down on them, even with all six in.   They barely popped back 
> up.  To the point that the hub made almost no ratcheting noise when 
> coasting.  Very quiet except for the occasional pinging.   I actually 
> remarked to my wife how strangely quiet the hub was, much quieter than the 
> XT hubs on my Atlantis and far quieter than any other hubs I've had.  I 
> figured it was a design feature.  
>
> Long story short, I pulled on the springs a bit to elongate them just 
> slightly and then put the hub back together.  It's buzzing nicely now, the 
> click of the pawls ratcheting is not perfectly simultaneous but much closer 
> (you were spot on about that!), AND I can't make it ping anymore.  The 
> pawls have more force pushing them against the ratchet in the hub now.  I 
> don't know why the springs wouldn't have been like that out of the box.  
>
> I'll have to test it some more tomorrow to see if that really took care of 
> it, but it seems to have made it better for the moment. 
>
> Thanks again for the detailed analysis.  Very helpful!   
>
>
>
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:27:45 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> OK, you answers are all as I expected.  I don't like the idea of six 
>> pawls.  It's what we call an overdetermined system.  The idea with six 
>> pawls is that each carry 1/6th of the load, but in order for that to 
>> happen, the machining has to be absolutely positively perfect.  The 
>> hardness of pawls themselves is extremely hard.  The hardness of the 
>> splined drive shell is extremely hard.  All six have to hit their groove 
>> perfectly.  Imagine building a wooden table with six legs out of hard oak 
>> in your garage.  It would be really hard to build that table with such 
>> precision that all six legs carry 1/6th of the weight of the table.  It 
>> would be hard to even get all 6 legs to reach the ground.  
>>
>> I suspect the requirement for absolute perfection is not attainable every 
>> single time with hubs with that design.  You might get lucky and have all 
>> six perfect, and you may be unlucky.  To convince yourself that you are 
>> just a little unlucky, turn the freehub body backwards as slowly as you 
>> can.  If it was manufactured perfectly, you will hear one CLICK, but it's 
>> really all six clicks happening simultaneously.  See if you move slowly 
>> enough to separate the clicks.  I suspect you'll find it easy to identify 
>> that there is one early, or one late.  
>>
>> To prove this is the cause, the test I recommend is to do exactly what 
>> you'd do with your six-legged table: change it to a three-legged table.  A 
>> three-legged table self-levels because it can.  Remove three of the six 
>> pawls and ride your bike.   I bet a dollar the PING is gone.  
>>
>> If that works as I expect, then you have something to discuss with your 
>> builder.  I personally think that six pawl design is dumb and three pawls 
>> is ample.  I think "upgrading" from 6 to 3 is an improvement.  I'd just use 
>> the wheel with three pawls and have a three spare pawls on hand.  You may 
>> decide it's a manufacturing defect and demand a new wheel under some kind 
>> of warranty.  I won't instruct you how to resolve the issue. 
>>
>> best of luck
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:34:15 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> [image: Hub_01.jpg][image: Hub_02.jpg]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-22 Thread Tom Wyland
This thread is the craziest bit of bulletin board wrenching I've ever 
seen.  Well done!

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-22 Thread Litho
Thank you, Bill.  You got me to open the freehub again and remove all of 
the pawls and springs.  I tried to put it back with 3 pawls, but the 
retaining ring wouldn't hold just three of them in place very well.  They 
were flopping all over the place and had so much play that the return 
springs did nothing.  Which got me to thinking about the strength of the 
return springs under the pawls.  The "spring" of the pawls was really weak 
when I pushed down on them, even with all six in.   They barely popped back 
up.  To the point that the hub made almost no ratcheting noise when 
coasting.  Very quiet except for the occasional pinging.   I actually 
remarked to my wife how strangely quiet the hub was, much quieter than the 
XT hubs on my Atlantis and far quieter than any other hubs I've had.  I 
figured it was a design feature.  

Long story short, I pulled on the springs a bit to elongate them just 
slightly and then put the hub back together.  It's buzzing nicely now, the 
click of the pawls ratcheting is not perfectly simultaneous but much closer 
(you were spot on about that!), AND I can't make it ping anymore.  The 
pawls have more force pushing them against the ratchet in the hub now.  I 
don't know why the springs wouldn't have been like that out of the box.  

I'll have to test it some more tomorrow to see if that really took care of 
it, but it seems to have made it better for the moment. 

Thanks again for the detailed analysis.  Very helpful!   



On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:27:45 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> OK, you answers are all as I expected.  I don't like the idea of six 
> pawls.  It's what we call an overdetermined system.  The idea with six 
> pawls is that each carry 1/6th of the load, but in order for that to 
> happen, the machining has to be absolutely positively perfect.  The 
> hardness of pawls themselves is extremely hard.  The hardness of the 
> splined drive shell is extremely hard.  All six have to hit their groove 
> perfectly.  Imagine building a wooden table with six legs out of hard oak 
> in your garage.  It would be really hard to build that table with such 
> precision that all six legs carry 1/6th of the weight of the table.  It 
> would be hard to even get all 6 legs to reach the ground.  
>
> I suspect the requirement for absolute perfection is not attainable every 
> single time with hubs with that design.  You might get lucky and have all 
> six perfect, and you may be unlucky.  To convince yourself that you are 
> just a little unlucky, turn the freehub body backwards as slowly as you 
> can.  If it was manufactured perfectly, you will hear one CLICK, but it's 
> really all six clicks happening simultaneously.  See if you move slowly 
> enough to separate the clicks.  I suspect you'll find it easy to identify 
> that there is one early, or one late.  
>
> To prove this is the cause, the test I recommend is to do exactly what 
> you'd do with your six-legged table: change it to a three-legged table.  A 
> three-legged table self-levels because it can.  Remove three of the six 
> pawls and ride your bike.   I bet a dollar the PING is gone.  
>
> If that works as I expect, then you have something to discuss with your 
> builder.  I personally think that six pawl design is dumb and three pawls 
> is ample.  I think "upgrading" from 6 to 3 is an improvement.  I'd just use 
> the wheel with three pawls and have a three spare pawls on hand.  You may 
> decide it's a manufacturing defect and demand a new wheel under some kind 
> of warranty.  I won't instruct you how to resolve the issue. 
>
> best of luck
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA 
>
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:34:15 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>
>>
>> [image: Hub_01.jpg][image: Hub_02.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-21 Thread Bill Lindsay
OK, you answers are all as I expected.  I don't like the idea of six 
pawls.  It's what we call an overdetermined system.  The idea with six 
pawls is that each carry 1/6th of the load, but in order for that to 
happen, the machining has to be absolutely positively perfect.  The 
hardness of pawls themselves is extremely hard.  The hardness of the 
splined drive shell is extremely hard.  All six have to hit their groove 
perfectly.  Imagine building a wooden table with six legs out of hard oak 
in your garage.  It would be really hard to build that table with such 
precision that all six legs carry 1/6th of the weight of the table.  It 
would be hard to even get all 6 legs to reach the ground.  

I suspect the requirement for absolute perfection is not attainable every 
single time with hubs with that design.  You might get lucky and have all 
six perfect, and you may be unlucky.  To convince yourself that you are 
just a little unlucky, turn the freehub body backwards as slowly as you 
can.  If it was manufactured perfectly, you will hear one CLICK, but it's 
really all six clicks happening simultaneously.  See if you move slowly 
enough to separate the clicks.  I suspect you'll find it easy to identify 
that there is one early, or one late.  

To prove this is the cause, the test I recommend is to do exactly what 
you'd do with your six-legged table: change it to a three-legged table.  A 
three-legged table self-levels because it can.  Remove three of the six 
pawls and ride your bike.   I bet a dollar the PING is gone.  

If that works as I expect, then you have something to discuss with your 
builder.  I personally think that six pawl design is dumb and three pawls 
is ample.  I think "upgrading" from 6 to 3 is an improvement.  I'd just use 
the wheel with three pawls and have a three spare pawls on hand.  You may 
decide it's a manufacturing defect and demand a new wheel under some kind 
of warranty.  I won't instruct you how to resolve the issue. 

best of luck

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA 

On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:34:15 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:

>
> [image: Hub_01.jpg][image: Hub_02.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-21 Thread Litho
Howdy Bill, 

1.  I upgraded to a new wheel set that included beefier rims and a dyno up 
front. This is an upgrade from the Silver / Alex that came stock on the 
Appaloosas.  I'm also in conversation with the builder, but we are on other 
sides of the country so I'm trying to crowd source some ideas! 
2.  Bitex BX103r
3.  The input is me turning the crank by hand, backpedaling a little at a 
time and then pushing it forward to simulate pedaling load.  I'm not 
pushing particularly hard in the video.  I'm doing it to illustrate the 
noise.  
4.  6 pawls.  I removed the lock ring, the pawls, and the tiny, tiny return 
springs under the pawls from the freehub body.  I didn't touch the bearing 
cartridges.  Pawls are in the freehub on this one, ratchets in the hub 
body.  
5.  I took high res photos of the pawl assembly under a studio light and 
inspected the high res photos.  My vision is pretty good, but not that 
good!  I looked at the splines in the driveshell with a bright light and 
ran a toothpick over each one to see if I could feel any deformations, 
nicks, etc.  
6.  Each of the six pawls is cut into two teeth on the business end.  The 
locking goes in between the pawl teeth.  Let me see if I can upload a 
photo.  

I'd love to hear your theory!  I'm well beyond the scope of my knowledge!


On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 7:59:41 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Here are my questions:
>
> 1. Why did you put a new rear wheel on your Appaloosa?
> 2. What rear hub is on your new rear wheel?
> 3. In the youtube video you aim the camera at the cassette but don't show 
> what you are doing at the input.  What are you doing at the input?  I think 
> you are backpedalling a little and then deliberately jerking the pedals 
> forward.  The chain isn't going slack and slamming tight on it's own.  You 
> are doing that on purpose to illustrate the noise.  Correct?
> 4.  When you "pulled apart the rear hub and inspected the freehub pawls", 
> how many pawls are there?  2?  3?  6?  To be clear, the pawls are the tiny 
> pieces of metal that are springloaded and individually click into the 
> splines of the drive ring or drive shell, depending on the way your rear 
> hub is architected. 
> 5.  When you say you inspected the pawls, did you actually inspect the 
> pawls, or did you mean you looked at the splines of the driveshell?
> 6.  Do your pawls have a single engagement end like most freehub and 
> freewheel pawls, or are they toothed with two or three teeth on their 
> business end?  
>
> I have a theory, and I'm pretty sure it's correct, but I don't want to 
> post a long and correct description for the wrong rear hub, because it will 
> confuse people who are not mechanics.  I don't mind confusing people with 
> long correct descriptions when they are relevant to the problem at hand.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 6:41:50 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:
>
>> Some context: put a new wheel on my Appaloosa a few days ago.  New wheel, 
>> all other parts of the drivetrain the same.  A few minutes  into the first 
>> ride around the block, I heard a ping from the rear of the drivetrain. 
>>  Stopped to see if the chain was off.  Nope.  Got on and didn't hear it 
>> again until later in the ride.  But only once more.  
>>
>> Back at home, admiring the new wheels, spun the pedals backward and 
>> hopped on to ride down the driveway.  As soon as I pedaled, PING.  
>>
>> So, drivetrain noise are notoriously irritating to root out.  This one is 
>> driving me nuts.  I've done the following: 
>> -Put another wheel on the bike to see if it still made the noise. It did 
>> not. 
>> -Put a new chain on. Still made the noise. 
>> -Tuned up my rear derailleur. Still made the noise. 
>> -Swapped cassette. Still made the noise. 
>> -Put the rear wheel on another bike. It made the same noise on the other 
>> bike. 
>> -Tightened every bolt / nut in the drivetrain to manufacturer's spec 
>> using a torque wrench. 
>> - Pulled apart rear hub and examined freehub pawls. No apparent damage. 
>> Cleaned and relubed freehub. Reinstalled. Still made the noise. 
>> -Inspected and reinstalled the axle. Still made the noise. 
>>  -Checked and adjusted spacer on cassette. Still made the noise. 
>>
>> What variable have I not yet isolated and tested???  Where does the 
>> pinging gremlin live???
>>
>> I'd love to hear some suggestions.  
>>
>> Here's a video complete with the ping: 
>> https://youtu.be/4v4TO9NKpAE
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-21 Thread Bill Lindsay
Here are my questions:

1. Why did you put a new rear wheel on your Appaloosa?
2. What rear hub is on your new rear wheel?
3. In the youtube video you aim the camera at the cassette but don't show 
what you are doing at the input.  What are you doing at the input?  I think 
you are backpedalling a little and then deliberately jerking the pedals 
forward.  The chain isn't going slack and slamming tight on it's own.  You 
are doing that on purpose to illustrate the noise.  Correct?
4.  When you "pulled apart the rear hub and inspected the freehub pawls", 
how many pawls are there?  2?  3?  6?  To be clear, the pawls are the tiny 
pieces of metal that are springloaded and individually click into the 
splines of the drive ring or drive shell, depending on the way your rear 
hub is architected. 
5.  When you say you inspected the pawls, did you actually inspect the 
pawls, or did you mean you looked at the splines of the driveshell?
6.  Do your pawls have a single engagement end like most freehub and 
freewheel pawls, or are they toothed with two or three teeth on their 
business end?  

I have a theory, and I'm pretty sure it's correct, but I don't want to post 
a long and correct description for the wrong rear hub, because it will 
confuse people who are not mechanics.  I don't mind confusing people with 
long correct descriptions when they are relevant to the problem at hand.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 6:41:50 PM UTC-7 Litho wrote:

> Some context: put a new wheel on my Appaloosa a few days ago.  New wheel, 
> all other parts of the drivetrain the same.  A few minutes  into the first 
> ride around the block, I heard a ping from the rear of the drivetrain. 
>  Stopped to see if the chain was off.  Nope.  Got on and didn't hear it 
> again until later in the ride.  But only once more.  
>
> Back at home, admiring the new wheels, spun the pedals backward and hopped 
> on to ride down the driveway.  As soon as I pedaled, PING.  
>
> So, drivetrain noise are notoriously irritating to root out.  This one is 
> driving me nuts.  I've done the following: 
> -Put another wheel on the bike to see if it still made the noise. It did 
> not. 
> -Put a new chain on. Still made the noise. 
> -Tuned up my rear derailleur. Still made the noise. 
> -Swapped cassette. Still made the noise. 
> -Put the rear wheel on another bike. It made the same noise on the other 
> bike. 
> -Tightened every bolt / nut in the drivetrain to manufacturer's spec using 
> a torque wrench. 
> - Pulled apart rear hub and examined freehub pawls. No apparent damage. 
> Cleaned and relubed freehub. Reinstalled. Still made the noise. 
> -Inspected and reinstalled the axle. Still made the noise. 
>  -Checked and adjusted spacer on cassette. Still made the noise. 
>
> What variable have I not yet isolated and tested???  Where does the 
> pinging gremlin live???
>
> I'd love to hear some suggestions.  
>
> Here's a video complete with the ping: 
> https://youtu.be/4v4TO9NKpAE
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-21 Thread Litho
It's every time I'm on the bike, now.  It's occasional under normal riding, 
but typically happens if I slow down, coast, or backpedal.  I took a slow 
motion video of the chain when the pinging happens to see if it's sticking 
or suddenly releasing slack, but if it is, I don't see it.  


On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 6:55:19 PM UTC-7 Justin wrote:

> Call me crazy but in the vid to my ears it actually sounds like chain 
> slack, slapping taught, more of a slap than a ping. Engaagement looks good. 
> I'm sure in person its different to hear. Sorry I don't have any 
> suggestions. Just giving my observation.
>
> best of luck
>
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:41:50 PM UTC-4 Litho wrote:
>
>> Some context: put a new wheel on my Appaloosa a few days ago.  New wheel, 
>> all other parts of the drivetrain the same.  A few minutes  into the first 
>> ride around the block, I heard a ping from the rear of the drivetrain. 
>>  Stopped to see if the chain was off.  Nope.  Got on and didn't hear it 
>> again until later in the ride.  But only once more.  
>>
>> Back at home, admiring the new wheels, spun the pedals backward and 
>> hopped on to ride down the driveway.  As soon as I pedaled, PING.  
>>
>> So, drivetrain noise are notoriously irritating to root out.  This one is 
>> driving me nuts.  I've done the following: 
>> -Put another wheel on the bike to see if it still made the noise. It did 
>> not. 
>> -Put a new chain on. Still made the noise. 
>> -Tuned up my rear derailleur. Still made the noise. 
>> -Swapped cassette. Still made the noise. 
>> -Put the rear wheel on another bike. It made the same noise on the other 
>> bike. 
>> -Tightened every bolt / nut in the drivetrain to manufacturer's spec 
>> using a torque wrench. 
>> - Pulled apart rear hub and examined freehub pawls. No apparent damage. 
>> Cleaned and relubed freehub. Reinstalled. Still made the noise. 
>> -Inspected and reinstalled the axle. Still made the noise. 
>>  -Checked and adjusted spacer on cassette. Still made the noise. 
>>
>> What variable have I not yet isolated and tested???  Where does the 
>> pinging gremlin live???
>>
>> I'd love to hear some suggestions.  
>>
>> Here's a video complete with the ping: 
>> https://youtu.be/4v4TO9NKpAE
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Who Wants to Play "Name that Drivetrain Noise?"

2020-09-21 Thread Justin
Call me crazy but in the vid to my ears it actually sounds like chain 
slack, slapping taught, more of a slap than a ping. Engaagement looks good. 
I'm sure in person its different to hear. Sorry I don't have any 
suggestions. Just giving my observation.

best of luck

On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:41:50 PM UTC-4 Litho wrote:

> Some context: put a new wheel on my Appaloosa a few days ago.  New wheel, 
> all other parts of the drivetrain the same.  A few minutes  into the first 
> ride around the block, I heard a ping from the rear of the drivetrain. 
>  Stopped to see if the chain was off.  Nope.  Got on and didn't hear it 
> again until later in the ride.  But only once more.  
>
> Back at home, admiring the new wheels, spun the pedals backward and hopped 
> on to ride down the driveway.  As soon as I pedaled, PING.  
>
> So, drivetrain noise are notoriously irritating to root out.  This one is 
> driving me nuts.  I've done the following: 
> -Put another wheel on the bike to see if it still made the noise. It did 
> not. 
> -Put a new chain on. Still made the noise. 
> -Tuned up my rear derailleur. Still made the noise. 
> -Swapped cassette. Still made the noise. 
> -Put the rear wheel on another bike. It made the same noise on the other 
> bike. 
> -Tightened every bolt / nut in the drivetrain to manufacturer's spec using 
> a torque wrench. 
> - Pulled apart rear hub and examined freehub pawls. No apparent damage. 
> Cleaned and relubed freehub. Reinstalled. Still made the noise. 
> -Inspected and reinstalled the axle. Still made the noise. 
>  -Checked and adjusted spacer on cassette. Still made the noise. 
>
> What variable have I not yet isolated and tested???  Where does the 
> pinging gremlin live???
>
> I'd love to hear some suggestions.  
>
> Here's a video complete with the ping: 
> https://youtu.be/4v4TO9NKpAE
>
>

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