Re: [Repeater-Builder] Doug Hall RBI-1 question

[Richard D. Reese]

Ken;

I have a DH that feed remotes on 146, 222, 440, and 1292 and have on 
occasion had them get confused.  This has always been after a hit on the 
power prior to my installing battery backup.  When the reset is don all it 
will do is default the DH RBI-1 to the first remote.  In my case the 2 meter 
one.

When an inquiry is done and the controller responds with, in your case, 
146.520 the remote will be placed on 146.520.  Also if a reset command is 
sent to the controller it will also place the remote on the default 
frequency.   I use a Link Communications RLC-3.


Richard D. Reese
http://www.wa8dbw.ifip.com
- Original Message - 
From: Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 5:23 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Doug Hall RBI-1 question



 When one does a reset on an RBI-1, does it actually set the controlled
 radio to a known freq or does the RBI-1 simply read the current contents,
 in order to sync?

 In other words, let's say the controlled radio is currently set to 
 146.520.
 Is that where it is left after the re-sync?

 Ken





 
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Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?

[Maire Company]

Tom,

a little help here? if I am 
going to look at sat. A and sat. B with 2 dish's is there a way to 
hook them into the same input on one receiver?

thanks John [EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: TGundo 2003 

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 

Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?

I work for a high-end Custom home electronics company and deal with directv 
all of the time. Heres a few bits you may or may not find intresting.

1. Rain fade. Want to limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look at 
the birds and have better signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but you hardly 
ever get rain fade!. The dishes are getting smaller and looking at three 
different positions in the sky, so they give up gain with the dish itself to 
look at all of these at the same time. They get away with this because the birds 
themselves are relativly high power. You can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at 
any one position in the sky and get much better signal, but not any bigger 
because again, the dish is too focused, At the 101 degree position there are 
actually three satellites which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart 
from each other in orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single point 
in the sky from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single out one of 
the satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your signal meter, 
with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! onders will read 100 all of 
the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you hear toto flying by when 
rain fade actually knocks the signal out all together.

2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard is RG-11 coax to 
maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this as well. Stacker 
systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise buildings. Basically, 
conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as noted in a previously. The 
issue is that the reciever has to send a signal to the dish to switch between 
the a and b lnbs to look at the different birds, they cant both come down the 
line at the same time because they are both oviously coming down at the same 
frequency. You cannot just "split" the signal to multiple recievers because they 
would battle for control over the dish as channels are changed. Because of that 
distribution of that to dozens of recievers in a large building starts to get 
complicated because of the voltage switches needed to facilitate the 
switching. The Stacker system sends the second dish feed down at 1500- 2 gig, so 
that all of the signals are on the line at the same time,! a on 900-1500, b on 
1500 - 2000. Many of the recievers out there already have tuners built in that 
can accept the wideband input, just a simple trip into the service menu on the 
box and turn it on! Now we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as 
you want! But RG-11 and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. 

Thats my two cents on the matter.

Tom
W9SRVbob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   From: "russ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 
  GMT To:  Subject: 
  [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?   Hey Does any 
  one know what frequency that the coax line coming from the LNB's to the 
  receiver is? On direct TV. 73 Russ, W3CH  yes the 
  cable is rg6 Yahoo! Groups 
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  unsubscribe from this group, send an email 
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  to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/


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Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?

[Tony King - W4ZT]

Use a multiswitch.

I'm working on a 48 dish right now for looking at 101 alone
;) Hope to be rid of a LOT of rain fade.

73, Tony W4ZT


At 09:00 PM 10/23/2004, you wrote:
Tom,

a little help here? if I
am going to look at sat. A and sat. B with 2 dish's is there
a way to hook them into the same input on one receiver?

thanks
John
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: TGundo 2003 
To:
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?

I work for a high-end Custom home electronics company and deal with directv all of the time. Heres a few bits you may or may not find intresting.

1. Rain fade. Want to limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look at the birds and have better signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but you hardly ever get rain fade!. The dishes are getting smaller and looking at three different positions in the sky, so they give up gain with the dish itself to look at all of these at the same time. They get away with this because the birds themselves are relativly high power. You can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at any one position in the sky and get much better signal, but not any bigger because again, the dish is too focused, At the 101 degree position there are actually three satellites which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart from each other in orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single point in the sky from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single out one of the satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your signal meter, with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! onders will read 100 all of the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you hear toto flying by when rain fade actually knocks the signal out all together.

2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard is RG-11 coax to maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this as well. Stacker systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise buildings. Basically, conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as noted in a previously. The issue is that the reciever has to send a signal to the dish to switch between the a and b lnbs to look at the different birds, they cant both come down the line at the same time because they are both oviously coming down at the same frequency. You cannot just split the signal to multiple recievers because they would battle for control over the dish as channels are changed. Because of that distribution of that to dozens of recievers in a large building starts to get complicated because of the voltage switches needed to facilitate the switching. The Stacker system sends the second dish feed down at 1500- 2 gig, so that all of the signals are on the line at the same time,! a on 900-1500, b on 1500 - 2000. Many of the recievers out there already have tuners built in that can accept the wideband input, just a simple trip into the service menu on the box and turn it on! Now we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as you want! But RG-11 and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. 

Thats my two cents on the matter.

Tom
W9SRV

bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:





 
 From: russ 
 Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 GMT
 To: 
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?
 
 
 Hey Does any one know what frequency that the coax line coming from the LNB's to the receiver is? On direct TV.
 73 Russ, W3CH
 
 yes the cable is rg6
 


















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[Repeater-Builder] gm300

[ian wells]

I have two gm300 radios i have joined together as a 
repeater .
can anyone tell mehow to change these to transmitt 
and receive ctcss tones .i have already setup the channels with 100 
hz.
Thank youIan WellsKerinvale Comaudiomail service 
1017,Biloela,4715.www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.auPlease 
update my email address in your records to mynew address- [EMAIL PROTECTED]1-email- [EMAIL PROTECTED]2-email- [EMAIL PROTECTED]














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Re: [Repeater-Builder] gm300

[ian wells]

no need i found out it is on the mic 
thanks everyone
Thank youIan WellsKerinvale Comaudiomail service 
1017,Biloela,4715.www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.auPlease 
update my email address in your records to mynew address- [EMAIL PROTECTED]1-email- [EMAIL PROTECTED]2-email- [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  ian wells 
  
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: 24 October, 2004 3:26 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] gm300
  
  I have two gm300 radios i have joined together as 
  a repeater .
  can anyone tell mehow to change these to 
  transmitt and receive ctcss tones .i have already setup the channels with 100 
  hz.
  Thank youIan WellsKerinvale Comaudiomail service 
  1017,Biloela,4715.www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.auPlease 
  update my email address in your records to mynew address- [EMAIL PROTECTED]1-email- [EMAIL PROTECTED]2-email- [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  













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Re: [Repeater-Builder] conversion of gm300 to repeater w/out rick..

[bradley glen]

Hi Tony

Yes it is possible and the Rick is a nice ti=o have
and not necessary.

Some basic passive components you can have a fully
functional repeater.

Have a look at batlabs site for more info or better go
and invest in a manual for the gm300 for accessories
connectors and mods.There are different jumpers and
more than one kind of controller board.

regards

Bradley Glen ZS5WT
--- tony_aurelio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 
 
 has anybody converted 2 gm300 to repeater mode
 with-out d rick..a 
 noise squelch thing..i have seen one working..would
 like to know how 
 its done..
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  
 
 
 
 




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Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?

[Maire Company]

What direction would I go to look for 
one. any model you have the best luck with? thanks 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Tony 
  King - W4ZT 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 10:14 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] 
  Direct TV type dish?
  Use a multiswitch.I'm working on a 48" dish right now 
  for looking at 101 alone ;) Hope to be rid of a LOT of rain 
  fade.73, Tony W4ZTAt 09:00 PM 10/23/2004, you wrote:
  Tom,a 
little help here? if I am going to look at sat. A and sat. 
B with 2 dish's is there a way to hook them into the same input on one 
receiver?thanks 
John [EMAIL PROTECTED]- 
Original Message - From: TGundo 2003 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PMSubject: Re: 
[Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?I work for a high-end Custom 
home electronics company and deal with directv all of the time. Heres a few 
bits you may or may not find intresting.1. Rain fade. Want to 
limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look at the birds and have better 
signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but you hardly ever get rain fade!. 
The dishes are getting smaller and looking at three different positions in 
the sky, so they give up gain with the dish itself to look at all of these 
at the same time. They get away with this because the birds themselves are 
relativly high power. You can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at any one 
position in the sky and get much better signal, but not any bigger because 
again, the dish is too focused, At the 101 degree position there are 
actually three satellites which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart 
from each other in orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single 
point in the sky from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single 
out one of the satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your 
signal meter, with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! ond! ers 
will read 100 all of the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you 
hear toto flying by when rain fade actually knocks the signal out all 
together.2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard 
is RG-11 coax to maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this 
as well. Stacker systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise 
buildings. Basically, conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as 
noted in a previously. The issue is that the reciever has to send a signal 
to the dish to switch between the a and b lnbs to look at the different 
birds, they cant both come down the line at the same time because they are 
both oviously coming down at the same frequency. You cannot just "split" the 
signal to multiple recievers because they would battle for control over the 
dish as channels are changed. Because of that distribution of that to dozens 
of recievers in a large building starts to get complicated because of 
the voltage switches needed to facilitate the switching. The Stacker system 
sends the second dish feed down at 1500- 2 gig, so that all of the signals 
are on the line at the same ! time,! a on 900-1500, b on 1500 - 2000. Many 
of the recievers out there already have tuners built in that can accept the 
wideband input, just a simple trip into the service menu on the box and turn 
it on! Now we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as you want! 
But RG-11 and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. Thats 
my two cents on the matter.TomW9SRVbob 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 

   
   From: "russ" 
   Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 GMT 
   To: 
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? 
   
   
   Hey Does any one know what frequency that the coax line coming 
  from the LNB's to the receiver is? On direct TV. 
   73 Russ, W3CH 
   
   yes the cable is rg6 
   
  
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Your use of 

Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?

[Tony King - W4ZT]

I haven't combined dishes YET... the multiswitch I have is for a single
dual LNB but there are 5x8 multiswitches out there that claim 4 LNB plus
antenna input for 8 outputs. Do a Google search on directv
multiswitch and you'll get thousands of hits, mostly folks selling
them. Just be sure that you get one designed for Directv control. Perhaps
Tom or one of the other guys will have a suggestion for one they've used.
I'd be interested in their ideas too. Right now I am not looking
for multiple satellites, rather very solid signal from one, to get rid of
as much rain fade as possible.

Thanks to the group for tolerating this slightly off topic thread 
:)

73, Tony W4ZT

At 11:00 AM 10/24/2004, Maire Company wrote:
What
direction would I go to look for one. any model you have the best
luck with? thanks 

- Original Message - 
From: Tony King - W4ZT 
To:
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 10:14 PM 
Subject: Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?


Use a multiswitch.


I'm working on a 48 dish right now for looking at 101 alone
;) Hope to be rid of a LOT of rain fade.


73, Tony W4ZT






At 09:00 PM 10/23/2004, you
wrote:
Tom, 
 
a little help here? if I am going to look at sat. A
and sat. B with 2 dish's is there a way to hook them into the same
input on one receiver? 
 
thanks John
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
 
- Original Message - 
From: TGundo 2003 
To:
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PM 
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?


I work for a high-end Custom home electronics company and deal with
directv all of the time. Heres a few bits you may or may not find
intresting. 
 
1. Rain fade. Want to limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look
at the birds and have better signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but
you hardly ever get rain fade!. The dishes are getting smaller and
looking at three different positions in the sky, so they give up gain
with the dish itself to look at all of these at the same time. They get
away with this because the birds themselves are relativly high power. You
can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at any one position in the sky and
get much better signal, but not any bigger because again, the dish is too
focused, At the 101 degree position there are actually three satellites
which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart from each other in
orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single point in the sky
from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single out one of the
satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your signal
meter, with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! ond! ers will
read 100 all of the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you
hear toto flying by when rain fade actually knocks the signal out all
together. 
 
2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard is RG-11 coax to
maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this as well.
Stacker systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise buildings.
Basically, conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as noted in a
previously. The issue is that the reciever has to send a signal to the
dish to switch between the a and b lnbs to look at the different birds,
they cant both come down the line at the same time because they are both
oviously coming down at the same frequency. You cannot just
split the signal to multiple recievers because they would
battle for control over the dish as channels are changed. Because of that
distribution of that to dozens of recievers in a large building starts to
get complicated because of the voltage switches needed to
facilitate the switching. The Stacker system sends the second dish feed
down at 1500- 2 gig, so that all of the signals are on the line at the
same ! time,! a on 900-1500, b on 1500 - 2000. Many of the recievers out
there already have tuners built in that can accept the wideband input,
just a simple trip into the service menu on the box and turn it on! Now
we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as you want! But RG-11
and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. 
 
Thats my two cents on the matter. 
 
Tom 
W9SRV
bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 










 
 From: russ 
 Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 GMT 
 To: 
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? 
 
 
 Hey Does any one know what frequency that the coax line coming
from the LNB's to the receiver is? On direct TV. 
 73 Russ, W3CH 
 
 yes the cable is rg6 
 


































































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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with a Micor Compa Station

[w7dux]

Neil,

Just wanted to get out to all on this radio.  I have no problems at 
all powering it down to around 60 watts if that is possible.  Also 
would like to know if that will increase the duty cycle from its 
20%.  I have not called or stopped by because I have been out of 
town and just got back a few days ago.  I will find time to call you 
and come by to show you the radio.  I would like to turn the node 
radio into a repeater at some point and am wondering if this is the 
radio to do it with.  Maybe I should go and just buy an already 
built repeater.

Dan



--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, d_tucker.rm 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 
  
 My name is Dan Tucker 
 Here is what I have.  I recently acquired and old Motorola Micor 
 Compa Station and I have no idea what can be done with it.  I am 
 very interested in learning more about it and what its
 possibilities are.  
 
 
 Since it was free to me, I am open to just about anything but do 
 want to keep it and use it some how.  Would it make a good IRLP  
 Node Radio?  
 
 Well, here are the specifics I can find on it. 
 
 Model #C73RTB-3196E
 
 This is my understanding of what this means;
 
   C = Compa Station Cabinet (either 30 or 41 high) 
 
   7 = 110 watts output - intermittent duty - 20% duty cycle. 
 
   3 = 132-174 MHz frequency range (however subject to the factory 
   design) 
 
   R = Micor Receiver
 
   T = Micor Transmitter (Intermittent Duty)
 
   B = Base station configueration - could be a repeater too ... 
   depends on how it was shipped.  
   Once again, better to see it in person. 
 
   3 = Factory CTCSS installed (you might call that PL) 
 
   1 = Narrow band (+/- 5 kHz deviation)
 
   9 = 4 freq receive / 4 freq transmit as shipped from the factory.
 
   6 = Tone remote control via a leased telephone line. 
 
   E = Production run series indicator 
 
 
 Serial #201C6CO288 (This is a bit hard to read on the tag)
 
 
 XMTR Data CC3301 
 RCVR Data  RCD-R106 
 
 115 watts (Says this on a tag inside)
 
 F1 Frequency currently (154.415 transmit and receive) 
 
 Tone Remote Controlled 
 
 4 Channels (not completely sure what the other 3 frequencies but 
 have a guess) 
 
 Other Numbers on the unit
 
 TRN6971A  Panel Assembly, PA 
 
 TFD5644A  Unable to locate, a close inspection may be able to 
 determine what it is.
 
 TFD6102A  Harmonic Filter 150.8 - 174 MHz 
 
 TCN1223A  Unified Chassis for Base ... not a repeater
 
 TLN5892A  Chassis and hardware kit 
 
  
 Has the following modules;
 
 Four Frequency control module 
 
 Guard Tone Decoder
 
 F1 - PL Control Module
 
 Stn. Control Module
 
 Line Driver
 
 That's about all I know about it.  It served as our old Fire 
 Department base radio ever since I have been a member of the
 Black Butte Ranch RFPD and probably well before that (Dec 1986). 
 
 I am interested in all of its possibilities, but mostly, can it be 
 transformed in to a 2m repeater and what might that cost?...can 
you 
 help? 
 
 Dan Tucker
 W7DUX
 Node 3089 (Owner)
 147.420










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E

[David A. Robichaux]

Just appointed EC for ARES in Wood County Ohio and need to install a 
new repeater system for Skywarn, emergencies, etc. Also new to list.
Considering a Hi-Pro E for UHF (448.5125)repeater for Wood County 
ARES 
operation. Any experience out there for guidance? Intended to buy 
with the 20 watt amplifier to drive a 100 watt Henry linear. Any help 
would be 
appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
[EMAIL PROTECTED]










 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E

[W9DHI]

The only advice I have is don't.  Look at a Kenwood TK850, much better...

Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired
Administrator http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org
K2/100 S#3075 KX1 S# 57
Member:  ARRL, RSGB, RCA, WERA and ORC
 


-Original Message-
From: David A. Robichaux [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 9:41 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E




Just appointed EC for ARES in Wood County Ohio and need to install a 
new repeater system for Skywarn, emergencies, etc. Also new to list.
Considering a Hi-Pro E for UHF (448.5125)repeater for Wood County 
ARES 
operation. Any experience out there for guidance? Intended to buy 
with the 20 watt amplifier to drive a 100 watt Henry linear. Any help 
would be 
appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
[EMAIL PROTECTED]










 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Doug Hall RBI-1 question

[Ken Arck]

At 08:30 PM 10/23/2004 -0400, you wrote:
When an inquiry is done and the controller responds with, in your case, 
146.520 the remote will be placed on 146.520.  Also if a reset command is 
sent to the controller it will also place the remote on the default 
frequency.   I use a Link Communications RLC-3.

---Thanks for the info. I was more concerned with how the RBI-1 treats the
radio when the reset button is pressed on the back of the RBI-1. From what
I've seen, the RBI-1 simply reads what is currently in the radio and
syncs to that. It doesn't actually set the radio to some default value. 

I just wanted to make sure I was seeing the proper behavior on an otherwise
untested RBI-1.

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E

[David A. Robichaux]

Thanks for the info.


  Dave, K5EYP
I do not choose to be a common man. I choose to be uncommon, if I can.


-Original Message-
From: W9DHI [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 2:16 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E



The only advice I have is don't.  Look at a Kenwood TK850, much better...

Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired
Administrator http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org
K2/100 S#3075 KX1 S# 57
Member:  ARRL, RSGB, RCA, WERA and ORC
 


-Original Message-
From: David A. Robichaux [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 9:41 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E




Just appointed EC for ARES in Wood County Ohio and need to install a 
new repeater system for Skywarn, emergencies, etc. Also new to list.
Considering a Hi-Pro E for UHF (448.5125)repeater for Wood County 
ARES 
operation. Any experience out there for guidance? Intended to buy 
with the 20 watt amplifier to drive a 100 watt Henry linear. Any help 
would be 
appreciated.
Thanks
Dave
[EMAIL PROTECTED]










 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 









 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 






__
Message transport security by GatewayDefender
2:15:46 PM ET - 10/24/2004



 
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BEGIN:VCARD
VERSION:2.1
N:Robichaux;Dave
FN:Dave Robichaux
TEL;HOME;VOICE:(419) 873-1076
TEL;CELL;VOICE:(419) 461-5883
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
REV:20040523T001720Z
END:VCARD

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E

[Maire Company]

it should be a Kenwood TKR-850that is there repeater number
 we use a number of the TKR-840  and been very happy with them
also look at the Vertex VXR-7000 UHFhave a number of them with out any 
problems.We are both a Kenwood and Vertex dealer.

thanks  John


- Original Message - 
From: W9DHI [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E



 The only advice I have is don't.  Look at a Kenwood TK850, much better...

 Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired
 Administrator http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org
 K2/100 S#3075 KX1 S# 57
 Member:  ARRL, RSGB, RCA, WERA and ORC



 -Original Message-
 From: David A. Robichaux [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 9:41 AM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hi-Pro E




 Just appointed EC for ARES in Wood County Ohio and need to install a
 new repeater system for Skywarn, emergencies, etc. Also new to list.
 Considering a Hi-Pro E for UHF (448.5125)repeater for Wood County
 ARES
 operation. Any experience out there for guidance? Intended to buy
 with the 20 watt amplifier to drive a 100 watt Henry linear. Any help
 would be
 appreciated.
 Thanks
 Dave
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]











 Yahoo! Groups Links














 Yahoo! Groups Links






 





 
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[Repeater-Builder] UHF duplexer For Sale

[Chuck Kelsey]

Sinclair MR356 UHF mobile duplexer for sale
6-cavity
50 watts
1.4 dB insertion loss
75 dB isolation
BNC connectors
Presently on 444.450/449.450 MHz

Specifications and photos from Sinclair:
http://www.sinctech.com/catalog/series.aspx?id=82

Tessco list new $435

Offered here before it goes to eBay
Shipping included
$100 (offers for more or less considered)

Please respond directly to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Chuck
WB2EDV





 
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